FR3045347A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SULPHITE WITH A PH LESS THAN 5.0 - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising one or more sulfites, said composition having a pH of less than 5.0, and its method of forming durable hair using it.

Description

Composition comprising at least one sulfite with a pH below 5.0

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one sulphite at a pH of less than 5.0, its use for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, such as the hair, and a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using this composition .

In the field of the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers and more particularly the permanent shaping of the hair, the disulfide bridges present in the keratinous fiber are generally reduced by using a reducing agent. Once these disulfide bridges are reduced, the hair is then shaped in the desired manner. This shaping step may consist of curling the hair or smoothing it, the result depending on the means used to realize the power.

This power-up operation can be performed before, during or after the application of the reducing composition. Once this first step is performed, an oxidation step is necessary to recreate the disulfide bridges and stabilize the resulting shape. This operation is usually carried out in an oxidizing medium.

It turns out that after this type of treatment, the keratinous fiber is generally damaged and weakened.

It is known from the application WO 02/09659 to use reducing compositions comprising a sulfite at a pH ranging from 5 to 8. However, the pH is still high and aggressive for keratinous fibers.

There is therefore a need to develop compositions that overcome the disadvantages mentioned above.

The applicant has now discovered that a composition comprising at least one sulphite at a pH of less than 5.0 and that the process implementing it, overcomes these disadvantages.

In particular, this composition makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of keratinous fibers, in particular by giving them a smooth feel, a shine, better disentangling, a discipline of the hair and a control of the volume, in particular by avoiding the presence of frizz. , and without getting dry tips.

In addition, a durable styling facility is observed for several days, or even weeks after application of the composition.

These different cosmetic properties are also persistent after several shampoos. The subject of the invention is therefore a composition comprising one or more sulphites, said composition having a pH of less than 5.0.

The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for a durable shaping of keratin fibers, especially human, such as hair.

Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic treatment process, and more particularly of durable shaping of keratinous fibers, comprising the use of the composition according to the invention. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...". The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more sulphites, said composition having a pH of less than 5.0.

The sulphites that can be used in the invention are chosen especially from sulphites (XSO.sub.3), disulfites (XS.sub.2O.sub.5) and hydrogenosulfites (XHSO.sub.3) of alkali or alkaline earth metal or ammonium, where X is an alkali metal or alkaline metal. earthy or ammonium. More particularly, they are selected from sodium, potassium and ammonium sulfites and hydrogen sulfites, and more preferably from sodium, potassium and ammonium sulfites.

A particularly preferred sulfite in the invention is sodium sulfite.

The sulfite (s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0, 75 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the pH is less than or equal to 4.5 and more preferably the pH is from 2 to 4.5, and more preferably from 2.5 to 4.5. Generally, the composition comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.

The water content may vary from 10 to 99% by weight, preferably from 30 to 98% by weight, and even more preferably from 50 to 97% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, mention may be made more particularly of non-aromatic alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, or polyols such as glycerol. Polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols and mixtures of all these compounds can also be used as solvents.

When (they) are (are) present, the content of organic solvent (s) is more particularly at most 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents usually used. Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, for example, are ammonia, alkanolamines or mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic polymers, silicones and mixtures thereof.

The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formula:

in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of the family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by C1-C4 alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company HERCULES, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products thereof; referred to as "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in the French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, the terpolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, the vinylpyrrolidone / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. methacrylamidopropyl-dimethylamine, such as those sold under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-propylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by ISP, the polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts; such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo-or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking by an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA. (2) cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in FR1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR). 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

The cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, are described in particular in the US4131576 patent, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted in particular with a salt methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl diallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in the patents US Pat. No. 3,098,578 and US Pat. No. 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by Rhodia. (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and linear or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent groups optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. (5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being preferably between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine. (7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (PI) or (PII):

in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; Ri2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - Rio and Ru, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C 1 -C 4 amidoalkyl group; ; or Rio and Ru may together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, designate heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium for example sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company NALCO (and their counterparts of low molecular weight average) and the copolymers of salts (by example chloride) diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR". (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

(PIII) in which: R1, R14, R14 and R16, which are identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-4alkylalkylaliphatic groups, or else Ri3, Ri4 R 1 and R 6, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, constitute heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R 13, R 14, R 15 and R 16 represent a linear C 1 -C 6 alkyl group; or branched substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and Bi represent divalent polymethylenic groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester, and X 'denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Al, Ri3 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

In addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, Bi may also denote a (CH 2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2) n- group in which D denotes: a) a residue of glycol of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - and - [CH 2 -CH (CH 3 Where X and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number of 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X 'is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molecular weight (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.

Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

(PIV) wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4, which are the same or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to about 20 and, X ' is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (PIV) is that for which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl group, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA). (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (PV):

in which: R 18, R 9, R 20 and R 21, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl or β-hydroxypropyl group or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2) pOH, where p is equal to at 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, - X- denotes an anion such as a halide, - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or is preferably -ch2-ch2-o -CH2-CH2-.

For example, the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol can be mentioned. (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F. (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary. (12) polymers having in their structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A):

(A) (b) optionally one or more units of the following formula (B):

(B)

In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B) , preferably from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be done in acidic or basic medium.

The weight average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by diffraction of light, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from 2 to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq / g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.

The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold, for example, under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products sold under the name LUPAMIN 9095. , LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010. Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (8) mentioned above.

Even more preferentially, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (7) and (8).

Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts such as those sold under the trade names "SALCARE® SC 92" may be preferably used. "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA; cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Amerchol; cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), sold under the names MERQUAT 100, MERQUAT 550 and MERQUAT S by the company NALCO and their homologues of low molecular weight by weight; quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

(PIV) wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4, which are the same or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to about 20, and X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, for example, that called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA), and mixtures thereof.

When one or more cationic polymer (s) is or are present (s), its or their quantity varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0 to , 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes which may be in the form of aqueous solutions, that is to say solubilized, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or emulsions aqueous. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academie Press.

Silicones can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5.

It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by the company UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by Rhodia, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 "by the company UNION CARBIDE," SILBIONE 70045 V 5 "by RHODIA, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure:

Mention may also be made of cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, hexamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and hexamethylcyclotetrasiloxane. 2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane. (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

When the silicones are nonvolatile, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and their mixtures are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1.10 ° C. 5 to 1 m 2 / s The viscosity of the silicones is for example measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE oils of series 47 and 70,047 or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, 70,047 V 500,000 oil, the oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHODIA, the oils of the 200 series of DOW CORNING, such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 Cst, the VISCASIL oils of the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils of the series. SF (SF 96, SF 18) of the company GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl, aminopropyl and alpha-omega silanol groups.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl methylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m2 / s at 25 ° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; oils of RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning, - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer as the PK20 product, - Silicones from the PN, PH series from the Bayer company, such as PN1000 products and PH1000, - certain oils of the SF series of the company GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following products: polydimethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums.

More particularly useful products are the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature ) such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning, the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is a corresponding SF 30 gum to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000, solubilized in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, - mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R2S1O2 / 2, R3S1O1 / 2, RS1O3 / 2 and S104 / 2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 atoms of carbon or a phenyl group. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200, thiol groups such as the products sold under the names " GP 72 A "and" GP 71 "from the company GENESEE, - alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name" SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755 "by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, - hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR 2,589,476; acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732, anionic groups of the carboxylic type such as, for example, in the products described in the patent EP 186 507 of the company CHISSO CORPORATION, or alkylcarboxylic type such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu, 2-hydroxyalkylsulphonate, 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate such as the products sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S201" and "ABIL S255", hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP 342 834. There may be mentioned for example the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of amino silicones.

By "amino silicone" is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The aminated silicones optionally used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from: (a) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I): (R1) a (T) 3.a-Si [OSi (T) 2] n- [OSi (T) b (R1) 2.b] m-OSi (T) 3-a- (R1) a (I) wherein: T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, hydroxyl ( -OH), or C1-C8 alkyl, and preferably methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a is the number 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b is 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and especially from 1 to 10, R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groups: -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2-N (R 2) 2, -N (R 2) 2, -n + (r 2) 3 q-, -N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q ', -n + (r 2) 2hq-, -N (R 2) - CH 2 -CH 2 -N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q-, in which R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl group; and Q 'represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (I) are chosen from compounds corresponding to the following formula (II):

in which R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH, A represents a linear or branched, C3-C8, preferably C3-C6, m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R 'and R ", which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the The compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone".

According to a second possibility, R, R 'and R ", which are identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the R or R" groups is an alkoxy group and A represents an alkylene group. in C3. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the Belsil®ADM 652 product marketed by WACKER.

According to a third possibility, R and R ", each different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R and R" being an alkoxy group, R 'representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, and advantageously is equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, mention may be made of FluidWR® 1300, sold by the company Wacker.

Note that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, eluent THF, flow rate of 1 mm / m, 200 μΐ of a 0.5% solution is injected by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry).

A product corresponding to the definition of the formula (I) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the following formula (III):

wherein n and m have the meanings given above according to formula (I).

Such compounds are described, for example, in EP 95238. A compound of formula (III) is, for example, sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI. (b) compounds having the following formula (IV):

in which: R represents a monovalent C1-C18 hydrocarbon group, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl, R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, especially a C1-C18 alkylene group; Cis or a C 1 -C 18 divalent alkyleneoxy group, for example C 1 -C 5, Q 'is a halide ion, in particular chloride, r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8, s represents a value mean statistics of 20 to 200 and in particular 20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in US Patent 4185087.

A compound in this class is that sold by UNION CARBIDE under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56". c) quaternary ammonium silicones, in particular of formula (V):

in which: R-7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl, R.6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, especially a C1-C18 alkylene group or a divalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy group, for example Ci-Cs linked to Si by an Si-C bond , R.8, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group, a -R6-NHCOR7 group, X 'is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, ...), r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 100.

These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. d) the amino silicones of formula (VI):

in which: R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which are identical or different, each denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, n is an integer; varying from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g.

When these compounds are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use together with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939" by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylketylammonium chloride and a non-surface-active agent. ionic, of formula C13H27- (OC2H4) 12-OH, known under the name CTFA "trideceth-12".

Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning, comprising in combination the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (III) described above, a non-surfactant ionic compound of the formula: C8H17-C6H4- (OCH2CH2) 40-OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of the formula: C12H25- (OCH2-CH2) 6-OH, known under the name CTFA name "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.

Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1 sold by the company Wacker, comprising, in the form of a microemulsion, an amodimethicone of formula (II) in combination with trideceth-5 and the trideceth-10.

The silicones which are particularly preferred are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl or dimethicone end groups, with dimethylsilanol or dimethiconol end groups, polyorganosiloxanes containing thiol groups, and phenyl silicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, for example DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil. DOW CORNING, quaternized or non-quaternized amino silicones, such as amodimethicones or silicones with a quaternary ammonium group, and polyoxyethylenated silicones.

Even more preferentially, the silicones of the invention are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising thiol groups, phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, and preferably non-quaternized amino silicones, and more preferably from aminated silicones such as amodimethicones.

When one or more silicone (s) is or are present (s), its or their quantity varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the conditioning agent (s) is (are) chosen from among the cationic polymers of the families (1), (2), (7) and (8), the polyorganosiloxanes comprising thiol groups, the phenyl silicones, preferably non-quaternized amino silicones, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, it (s) is (are) chosen from among optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts such as those sold under the trade names "SALCARE® SC 92 "," SALCARE® SC 95 "and" SALCARE® SC 96 "by the company CIBA; cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Amerchol; cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), sold under the names MERQUAT 100, MERQUAT 550 and MERQUAT S by the company NALCO and their homologues of low molecular weight by weight; quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

in which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and, X 'is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, for example, that called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA); amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the conditioning agent (s), when they are present or present, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more alkoxysilanes.

The alkoxysilanes used in the composition are preferably compounds of formula (G) 4-xSi (OR) x, with x denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 3, G denoting identical or different monovalent groups and R denoting a hydrocarbon radical monovalent compound comprising one or more carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers.

Preferably, the alkoxysilane (s) contain two or three alkoxy functions.

Preferably, the alkoxy functional group (s) are chosen from methoxy and ethoxy functions.

According to one particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane (s) comprise one or more solubilizing functional groups.

By solubilizing functional group is meant in the sense of the present invention any functional chemical group facilitating the dissolution of the alkoxysilane in the appropriate medium for dyeing, that is to say in the solvent or mixture of solvents of the composition , especially in water or in hydroalcoholic mixtures. As solubilizing functional group usable according to the present invention, mention may be made of the primary, secondary and tertiary amine groups, aromatic amine, carboxylic acid alcohol, sulphonic acid, anhydride, carbamate, urea, guanidine, aldehyde, ester, amide, epoxy, pyrrole, dihydroimidazole, gluconamide, pyridyl and polyether.

The alkoxysilane (s) present in the composition according to the invention may contain one or more identical or different solubilizing functional groups, as defined above.

The alkoxysilane (s) containing one or more solubilizing functional groups present in the composition according to the invention may contain one or more silicon atoms.

The alkoxysilane (s) containing one or more solubilizing functional groups generally contain two or three alkoxy functions. Preferably, the alkoxy functions are methoxy or ethoxy functions.

According to one particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane (s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (VU), their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:

(VII) wherein: R 4 represents halogen, OR 'or R' 1; R5 is halogen, OR "or R'2; R.6 represents a halogen, a group OR '' or R'3;

R 1, R 2, R 3, R ', R ", R'", R '1, R' 2, R '3 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group optionally bearing groups additional chemical compounds, R 1, R 2, R ', R "and R'" may further denote hydrogen, at least two of the groups R 4, R 5 and R 6 being different from the groups R '1, R' 2 and R '3, at least two of the groups R ', R "and R'" being different from hydrogen.

Preferably, the groups R 1, R 2, R ', R' 1, R '2, R' 3, R "and R '" are chosen from the alkyl radicals of C 1 -C 12, aryl of C 1 -C 14, alkyl of Ci C 8 -C 8 aryl, and C 6 to C 1 -C 8 aryl aryl.

For example, the alkoxysilane (s) may comprise a substituent comprising a secondary amine function, such as bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine of the formula (CH3CH2O) 3 -Si (CH2) 3NH (CH2) 3SI (OCH2CH3) 3 by the company Fluorochem, bis [trimethoxysilylpropyl] amine of formula (CH 3 O) 3-Si (CH 2) 3 NH (CH 2) 3 Si (OCH 3) 3 proposed by Gelest, bis [methyldiethoxysilylpropyl] amine of formula (CH 3 CH 2 O) 2 CH 3 Si ( CH2) 3NH (CH2) 3SiCH3 (OCH2CH3) 2 provided by Gelest and bis [3-trimethoxysilylpropyl] ethylenediamine of formula (CH 3 O) 3 Si (CH 2) 3 NH (CH) 2 NH (CH 2) 3 Si (OCH 3) 3 proposed by Gelest company.

According to a preferred embodiment of this embodiment, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes comprise a substituent comprising a primary amine function, and are chosen from the compounds of formula (VIIa), their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:

(VIIa) in which the groups R, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.

A particularly preferred alkoxysilane according to this embodiment of the invention is γ-aminopropyl triethoxysilane. Such a compound is for example sold under the name Z-6011 Silane by Dow Corning.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the alkoxysilane (s) are chosen from compounds of formula (VIII), their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:

(VIII) wherein: R 9 is halogen or OR '9 and R 10 is halogen or OR' 10; at least one of the groups R9 and Rio being different from a halogen; R'9 and R'10 represent, independently of one another, hydrogen or a C1-C14 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; at least one of the groups R'9 and R'10 being different from hydrogen; R7 is a non-hydrolyzable functional group with a cosmetic effect, and R8 is a non-hydrolyzable functional group carrying a functional group chosen from amine, carboxylic acid and their salts, sulphonic acid and their salts, polyalcohol such as glycol, polyether such as polyalkylene ether, and phosphoric acid and its salts.

The term "cosmetic functional group" is understood to mean a group chosen from groups derived from a reducing agent, an oxidizing agent, a coloring agent, a polymer, a surfactant, an antibacterial agent, a UV filter.

Examples of groups derived from a coloring agent are, inter alia, aromatic, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzoquinone, azo, xanthene, triarylmethane, azine, indoaniline, indophenolic or indoaminic nitro groups; examples of reducing groups are, inter alia, thiol groups, sulfinic acid or sulfinic acid salt. By way of example, there may be mentioned aminopropyl-N- (4,2-dinitrophenyl) amino propyl diethoxysilane. Such compounds are for example described in patent application EP 1 216 023.

The alkoxysilane (s) present in the composition according to the invention may also be chosen from the compounds of formula (IX), their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:

(IX) wherein:

Ri 2 represents a halogen, a group OR '12, Ro;

Ri3 represents a halogen, a group OR'13, R'o;

R14 represents a halogen, a group OR'14, R "o; at least two of the groups R12, R13 and R14 being different from the groups R0, R'o and R "o; R11 is a group chosen from groups bearing at least one functional group chosen from carboxylic acid functions and its salts, sulphonic acid and its salts, and polyalkyl ethers.

Ro, R'o, R "o, R '12, R' 13 and R'14 represent, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C14 hydrocarbon group, optionally carrying additional chemical functions. chosen from among the carboxylic acid functions and its salts, sulphonic acid and its salts, and polyalkyl ethers, R'12, R'13 and R14 may further denote hydrogen, two at least R'12, R'13 and R groups; 14 being different from hydrogen.

Preferably, the groups R'12, R 'and R'u, Ro, R'o and R "o represent a C1-C12 alkyl, C6-C6 aryl, C1-C6 alkyl-aryl group of Ce C14, or C6 to C14 aryl - C1 to C8 alkyl.

According to another embodiment, the alkoxysilane (s) present in the composition used according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (X), their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: (R 2, 0) x (R 22 ) ySi- (B) p- [NR23- (B ') p.] q- [NR'23- (B ") p]] q.-Si - (R'22) y (OR'21) x . (X) wherein: R21, R22, R'21 and R'22 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from the group consisting of ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y = 3-x, x 'is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y' = 3-x ', p = 0 or 1, p '= 0 or 1, p "= 0 or 1, q = 0 or 1, q' = 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least q or q 'is other than zero, B, B and B "each independently represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkylene divalent radical, R 23 and R '23 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms possibly interrupted or substituted by one or more gr Etps ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic cycle, heterocyclic or not, optionally substituted with one or more C3 alcohol ester groups -C20, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl.

As previously explained, R21, R22, R'21 and R'22 each independently represent a hydrocarbon chain. By hydrocarbon chain is preferably meant a chain having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Similarly, R23 and R'23 may represent a hydrocarbon chain. In this case, it is preferable to mean a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the aromatic ring has from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl radical.

Preferably, R2i = R'21; R22 = R'22; x = x '; y = y '; p = p '; A = A '; q = 1 and q '= 0.

The alkoxysilane (s) of formula (X) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination: R21, R22, R'21 and R'22, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl; P '= 1; - B and B ', identical or different, represent a linear alkylene C1-C4 and - R23 is hydrogen.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the alkoxysilane (s) are chosen from compounds of formula (XI):

(XI) wherein: R24 and R25 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups selected from ether, ester, amine, amide groups carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl, x "= 2 or 3; Y "= 3-x"; n '= 0 or 1; n "= 0 or 1; E and E 'each independently represent a divalent linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkylene radical, R 26 and R 27 each independently represent hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether groups, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or not, optionally substituted by one or more ester groups of C1-C20 alcohol, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl, r is an integer ranging from 0 to 4, r '= 0 or 1, the R28 group or groups independently represent hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably C 1 -C 10, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally substituted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups.

As previously explained, R24 and R25 each independently represent a hydrocarbon chain. By hydrocarbon chain is preferably meant a chain having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Similarly, R26 and R27 may represent a hydrocarbon chain. In this case, it is preferable to mean a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the aromatic ring has from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl radical.

The alkoxysilane (s) of formula (XI) may have the following characteristics taken alone or in combination: R 24 is C 1 -C 4 alkyl, - x "= 3, n '= n" = 1; r = r '= 0, R 26 and R 27 independently represent hydrogen or a group selected from C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl groups;

In particular, the alkoxysilane (s) of formula (XI) may be chosen from: 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, of formula:

p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, of formula:

N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane, of formula:

The alkoxysilane (s) may also be chosen from compounds of formula: (R 2 90) xi (R 3o) y 1 -Si - (Al) s - CH = O (XII) in which R 29 and R 30 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, xi = 2 or 3, yi = 3-xi,

Ai represents a divalent linear or branched C1-C20 alkylene radical optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more C1-C30 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, s = 0 or 1.

As previously explained, R29 and R3o each independently represent a hydrocarbon chain. By hydrocarbon chain is preferably meant a chain having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

The alkoxysilane (s) of formula (XII) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination: R 29 and R 30 are chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkyls, s = 1,

Al is a linear C1-C4 alkylene.

In particular, the alkoxysilane (s) of formula (XII) may be chosen from: triethoxysilylbutyraldehyde, of formula: (CH 3 CH 2 O) 3 -Si - (CH 2) 3 -CH = O - triethoxysilylundecanal, of formula: (CH 3 CH 2 O) 3 - If - (CH 2) io-ch = o - triethoxysilylundecanal, ethylene glycol acetal, of the formula: (CH 3 CH 2 O) 3 Si - (CH 2) 10 -CH (OCH 2) 2.

The particularly preferred compound of formula (XII) is triethoxysilylbutyraldehyde. This compound is for example sold under the name SIT 8185.3 by the company GELEST.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkoxysilane (s) are chosen from di- and / or tri-alkoxysilanes having one or more substituents comprising one or more amine functions and / or one or more aldehyde functions.

According to an even more preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilanes are chosen from tri-alkoxysilanes having a substituent comprising one or more amine functions and / or one or more aldehyde functions.

Even more preferentially, the alkoxysilane (s) are chosen from tri-alkoxysilanes having a substituent comprising one or more amine functional groups, more preferably from the alkoxysilanes of formula (VIIa).

When one or more alkoxysilanes is present or present, its amount varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise conventional additives such as nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, and among these may be mentioned alkyl sulphates, alkyl benzene sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkylbetaines, oxyethylenated alkylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters, as well as other nonionic surfactants of the hydroxypropyl ether type.

When the composition contains this type of additive, its content in general is less than 30% by weight, and preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

The composition may be in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, a cream, a gel, or any other suitable form.

According to the present invention, the method of cosmetic treatment, and more particularly of durable shaping of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, such as the hair, comprises the application of the composition according to the invention to said fibers, followed by a possible rinsing step. Generally 20 to 200 g, more preferably 50 to 150 g are applied. of composition on the whole of the hair.

After application of the composition, it is generally allowed to set for 3 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes.

The keratinous fibers may be put under mechanical tension before, during or after said application.

When it is desired to loop or smooth the hair in a durable manner, mechanical means such as hair curlers (in the case of loops) are preferably used in order to tension the keratinous fibers, the composition being applied before, during or after the means for shaping the hair, preferably after.

The composition can be applied to wet hair previously wound on rolls having 2 to 30 mm in diameter. The composition can also be applied as the hair is rolled up. Generally, the composition is then allowed to act for 3 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes.

It is also possible, after application of the composition and its optional rinsing, to subject the hair to heat treatment by heating at a temperature of between 30 and 250 ° C., better still of 60 to 220 ° C. and even more preferably of 120 to 200 ° C. . This heat treatment can be done during all or part of the exposure time.

In practice, this operation can be conducted by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, a round iron or a flat iron, an infrared dispenser and other heating appliances .

It is more particularly possible to use a heating iron at a temperature of between 60 and 220 ° C. and preferably between 120 and 200 ° C. This round or flat iron is both a means of heating and shaping the hair and is used after the rinsing step following the application of the composition.

The curler itself can be heated.

In a preferred embodiment, the application of the composition according to the invention may be followed by the application of a care composition comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic polymers, silicones, and mixtures thereof. and / or one or more alkoxysilanes. The cationic polymers, the silicones and the alkoxysilanes that can be used in this care composition are those described above.

The conditioning agent (s) or the alkoxysilane (s) is (are) preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 10% by weight. by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition.

The care composition comprises water, one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents as defined above, or a mixture thereof.

This (these) care composition (s) can be applied (s) after the composition according to the invention optionally rinsed, preferably in a proportion of 5 to 30 g, better still 10 to 20 g of composition on the whole of the hair.

In addition, the application of this care composition can also be followed by rinsing.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the process for the durable shaping of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, such as the hair, comprises the following steps: (i) the application of a composition according to the invention, ii) a rinsing, (iii) the application of a care composition as defined above, (iv) optionally a rinsing, and a heat treatment step being carried out between steps (ii) and (iii) and or after step (iv), by heating at a temperature of 30 and 250 ° C, more preferably 60 to 220 ° C and more preferably 120 to 200 ° C.

The processes according to the invention may further comprise the application of an oxidizing composition.

This oxidizing composition comprises one or more oxidizing agents.

The at least one oxidizing agent (s) is preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates.

In particular, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing agent (s) may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 2% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

For example, this application of an oxidizing composition can be done after the application of the composition according to the invention and its rinsing.

The methods according to the invention thus make it possible to obtain a durable shaping of the keratinous fibers, while providing improved cosmetic properties such as a smooth feel, a shine, a discipline of the hair and a control of the volume, avoiding in particular the presence of frizz, as well as ease of disentangling, and ease of styling. These are persistent after several shampoos. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

Examples Example 1

Composition A according to the invention, a care composition B and a composition C were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below. All the percentages are by weight and the indicated amounts are expressed in% by weight of product in the state relative to the total weight of each composition.

M.A .: Active Ingredient

M A.: Active matter

Wet strands, previously washed with a shampoo, were treated with composition A, applied at the rate of 120 g of composition on the whole of the hair.

It was left for 10 minutes then rinsed and wrung out.

12 g were then applied. on the whole hair care composition B followed by 18 g. of composition C.

We let sit for 5 minutes then we rinsed and drained.

We dried with a hair dryer.

A heating straightener was then passed through 190 ° C, 2 times per lock of hair.

On wet hair, a better smooth feel and better shine were observed.

Wet hair is also softer and denser and dry hair is denser but also more individualized.

After 6 shampoos, the cosmetic results remained the same.

Better discipline and frizz control are also observed on dry hair, the day of application and after 6 shampoos.

Example 2

Compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention, comparative compositions IA, IB, IC, 2A, and 2B were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Tables 1 and 2 below. All the percentages are by weight and the indicated amounts are expressed in% by weight of product in the state relative to the total weight of each composition.

Table 1

Table 2

Wet locks, previously washed with shampoo, were treated with composition 1, applied at the rate of 120 g. of composition on the whole of the hair.

It was left for 10 minutes then rinsed and wrung out.

We dried with a hair dryer.

A heat straightener was then heated at 210 ° C, 3 times per lock of hair.

After 1 and 3 shampoos, there was an improvement in terms of relaxation, volume control and smooth feel with composition 1 (pH = 3.3) compared to compositions IA (pH = 5.2), IB ( pH = 7, 1) and IC (pH = 9.5).

The same improvements were observed for composition 2 (pH = 3.2) compared to compositions 2A (pH = 7.0) and 2B (pH = 9.5).

Claims (16)

A composition comprising one or more sulfites, said composition having a pH of less than 5.0. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the sulphite is chosen from sulphites (XSO3), disulfites (XS2O5) and hydrogen sulphites (XHSO3) of alkali or alkaline-earth metal or ammonium, X being a metal alkali or alkaline earth metal or ammonium, and more particularly from sodium, potassium and ammonium sulphites and hydrogen sulphites, more preferably from sodium, potassium and ammonium sulphites. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the sulphite (s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 at 5% by weight, better still from 0.75 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH is less than or equal to 4.5, preferably ranges from 2 to 4.5, more preferably from 2.5 to 4.5. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic polymers, silicones and mixtures thereof. 6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the (s) conditioning agent (s) is or are chosen from optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (Ci-C4) trialkyl (Ci-C4) salts. ) ammonium, cationic polysaccharides, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts, and their homologues of low molecular weight by weight, the quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula: (PIV) wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4, which are the same or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to about 20 and, X ' is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the conditioning agent (s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0 to , From 5% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more alkoxysilane (s), preferably chosen from alkoxysilanes of formula (VIIa), their hydrolysis products and their oligomers : (VIIa) in which the groups iv, which are different or different, are selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the (s) alkoxysilane (s) is or are present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. A process for the durable shaping of keratinous fibers, especially human fibers, such as the hair, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims, to said fibers, followed by a possible rinsing step. 11. The method of claim 10, characterized in that it comprises a heat treatment step by heating at a temperature between 30 and 250 ° C, more preferably from 60 to 220 ° C and more preferably from 120 to 200 ° C. 12. The method of claim 10 or 11, characterized in that it comprises the application of a care composition comprising one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic polymers, silicones, and mixtures thereof, and / or a or more alkoxysilanes. 13. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the (s) conditioning agent (s) is or are chosen from optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (Ci-C4) trialkyl (Ci-C4) salts. ) ammonium, cationic polysaccharides, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts, and their homologues of low molecular weight by weight, the quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula: (PIV) wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4, which are the same or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to about 20 and, X ' is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, and mixtures thereof. 14. The method of claim 12, characterized in that the (s) alkoxysilane (s) is (are) chosen from alkoxysilanes of formula (VIIa), their hydrolysis products and their oligomers: (VIIa) in which the groups R, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4. 15. Method according to any one of claims 10 to 14, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: (i) the application of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, (ii) a rinsing, (iii) applying a care composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14, and (iv) optionally rinsing, a heat treatment step being performed between steps (ii) and (iii) and / or after step (iv), by heating at a temperature of 30 and 250 ° C, more preferably 60 to 220 ° C and more preferably 120 to 200 ° C. 16. Method according to any one of claims 10 to 15, characterized in that it comprises the application of an oxidizing composition.