FR2992188A1 - MATIFYING EFFECT COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROPHOBIC AEROGEL PARTICLES AND OXYETHYLENE NONIONIC SURFACTANT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least hydrophobic airgel particles, and b) at least one oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant of HLB ranging from 15 to 20. L Another subject of the invention is a method for matting the skin and / or reducing its gloss.

Description

Matifying effect composition comprising hydrophobic aerogel particles and an oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant The present invention relates to the field of skincare and / or makeup of keratinous substances, and in particular of the skin. It relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic aerogel particles and at least one oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant. The invention also relates to a method of care and / or makeup of the skin comprising the topical application of the composition to the skin. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for mattifying the skin and / or reducing its gloss, comprising topically applying to said skin the aforementioned composition. The shine of the skin, generally related to a high secretion of sebum, is a problem mainly affecting adolescents, but which can also manifest itself in adulthood under the effect in particular of a hyperproduction of androgens or factors. such as pollution. The shine of the skin can also be related to sweat, resulting from physical activity or weather conditions. The shine of the skin may be due to the combination of the two phenomena (sebum and sweat). Obtaining a matte effect of the skin is highly sought after by users with combination or oily skin, as well as for cosmetic compositions intended to be used in hot and humid climates. Reflections caused by an excess of sebum and / or sweat on the surface of the skin are indeed generally regarded as unsightly.

A shiny skin also generally leads to less good hold of the makeup which thus tends to degrade during the day. In addition to the use of so-called "sebo-regulating" agents, that is to say capable of helping to regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands by an action that can be described as biological, an effective way of rapidly reducing the Unsightly areas of shine involves using "soft-focus" bloomer fillers. The use of sebum and sweat absorbing fillers is also a way of prolonging dullness over time.

It is known to use perlite (FR 2881643), pyrogenic fillers (EP 1 637 186) or fibers as matting agents. However, these fillers can cause discomfort including lint on the skin and / or perception of skin not clean. So we try to limit the rate of charges. There remains the need for mattifying cosmetic compositions having good cosmetic properties, and in particular providing an effective matting effect (strong), immediate, and / or lasting over time.

There is also a need to obtain a stable aqueous composition comprising hydrophobic airgel particles well dispersed in the composition.

The Applicant has discovered that this need could be satisfied by combining in a composition, at least hydrophobic aerogel particles, and at least one oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant of HLB ranging from 15 to 20. The composition is homogeneous and stable.

The composition thus obtained makes it possible to improve the dullness of the skin remanently. The skin thus remains permanently matified. The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least hydrophobic aerogel particles; (b) at least one oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant. The constituents of the composition according to the invention will now be described in more detail. HYDROPHOBIC AEROGELS: 10 Aerogels are ultra light porous materials. The first aerogels were made by Kristler in 1932. They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to prevent the contraction of the pores and the material. Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials from gel, namely cryodessiccation consisting of solidifying the gel at low temperature and then subliming the solvent and drying by evaporation. The materials thus obtained are called cryogels and xerogels respectively. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The airgel particles according to the present invention are hydrophobic airgel. By "hydrophobic airgel particles" is meant any aerogel-like particle having a WET POINT water absorption capacity of less than 0.1 m 2 / g which is less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particle. The Wet Point corresponds to the amount of water that must be added to 1 g of particle to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method derives directly from the method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. The measurements are made in the same way via the Wet Point and the Flow Point having respectively the following definition: 2 992 188 4 WET POINT: mass expressed in grams per 100g of product corresponding to obtaining a homogeneous paste when adding a solvent to a powder. 5 The WET POINT is measured according to the following protocol: Material used Glass plate (25 x 25 mm) Spatula (wooden handle and metal part (15 x 2,7mm) 10 Bristle brush Balance The glass plate is removed on the balance and we weigh 1g of airgel.The beaker containing the solvent and the sampler 15 is deposited on the balance.The solvent is gradually added to the powder by regularly mixing the assembly (every 3 to 4 drops The hydrophobic aerogels used according to the present invention can be organic, inorganic, organic-inorganic hybrids, and the mass of solvent required to obtain the Wet Point. The organic aerogels may be based on polyurethane resins, resorcinol-formaldehyde, polyfurfuranol, cresol-formaldehyde, phenol-furfuranol, polybutadiene, melamine-formaldehyde, phenol-furfural, polyimides, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyolefins, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles, phenol-formaldehyde, polyvinyl alcohol, dialdehydes, polycyanurates, epoxies, celluloses, cellulose derivatives, chitosan, agar, agarose, alginate, starches, and mixtures thereof. Aerogels based on organic-inorganic hybrids are also contemplated, for example silica-PMMA, silica-chitosan and silica-polyether. Patent applications US2005 / 0192366 and WO 2007126410 describe such hybrid organic-inorganic materials. The hydrophobic airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (Sm) of from 200 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and more preferably from 600 to 800 m 2 / g , and a size expressed in volume average diameter (D [0.51) less than 1500 .mu.M and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 .mu.m, preferably from 5 to 25 .mu.m, better still from 5 to 20 .mu.m and more preferably from better from 5 to 15 pm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The sizes of the airgel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering by means of a commercial particle size meter MasterSizer 2000 from Malvem. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm, better still 5 to 15 pm. The hydrophobic airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.03 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3. In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, referred to as the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 STAMPF VOLUMETER apparatus; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g). According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2. m2 / cm3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = Sm. where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and Sm is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above. Preferably, the hydrophobic airgel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 18 ml / g. 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. According to one particular embodiment, the airgel particles used are inorganic and more particularly hydrophobic silica airgel particles having the properties set out above. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (in particular by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably Silylated silica aerogels (INCI name silica silylate). Hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725. In particular, hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used. Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention include, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have a particle size. average of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m2 / g. There may also be mentioned aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201 and AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200. More particularly, the airgel marketed under the trade name VM will be used. -2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. The airgel marketed under the name Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company CABOT, whose particles have an average size ranging from 2-25 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from from 600 to 800 m2 / g. The hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition 20 Oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant Oxyethylenated surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising CH 2 CHO groups. The surfactants preferably have an HLB ranging from 15 to 20, more particularly from 15 to 17. The nonionic surfactants according to the invention are, for example, chosen from oxyethylenated triglycerides of 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 30 to 80 moles of ethylene oxide and more particularly from hydrogenated and oxyethylenated castor oils of 30 to 70 moles of ethylene oxide. The nonionic surfactants according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one C2-C8 polyol. Among the polyols mention may be made of glycerol, propanediol-1,2, propanediol-1,3, butanediol-1,4, butanediol-1,3, butanediol-1,2, pentanediol-1,5. , pentanedio1-1,2, hexanedio1-1,6, octanedio1-1,2 (caprylyl glycol). The preferred polyols according to the invention are, in particular, glycerin, butanedio-1, 3, propanediol-1,2 (propylene glycol), pentanedio-1,2, propanediol-1, 3. the diols according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention further comprise a sebum-absorbing particle, in particular having an intake of sebum. Advantageously, the particles absorbing sebum have a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 10 ml / 100 g, in particular greater than or equal to 20 ml / 100 g, and in particular greater than or equal to 30 ml / 100 g. The term "particle absorbing sebum" means a powder capable of absorbing and / or adsorbing the sebum. Generally, this type of particle is in the form of a particulate powder having an intake of sebum. Sebum intake is the amount of sebum absorbed and / or adsorbed by the particle. It is measured according to the Wet Point method described below. Advantageously, the particle that absorbs sebum may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 200 m 2 / g, preferably greater than 350 m 2 / g, and preferably greater than 500 m 2 / g, and especially less than 2000 m 2 / g . The "BET specific surface area" is determined according to the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (thus including micropores) of the particle, and in particular of the powder. The particles absorbing sebum may be a mineral powder or an organic powder.

More specifically, the particles absorbing sebum may be chosen from: - silica powders, - polyamide powders (nylon®), - powders of silica silylate, - powders of acrylic polymers, especially polymethyl methacrylate, poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; the expanded copolymer powders of vinylidene chloride and of acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of methyl methacrylate; the elastomer silicone powders, in particular obtained by polymerization of organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms; each bonded to a silicon atom and an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in the presence of platinum catalyst; 2 992 188 11 - talc, - boron nitride, - clays, - perlites 5 - their mixture. The sebum absorbing particle may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, waxes and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. As representative and non-limiting examples of sebum absorbing particles according to the invention, mention may be made of the particles below. As silica powder, mention may be made of: - the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica 30 BEADS SB-700 by the company MYOSHI; "SUNSPHERE® H51", "SUNSPHERE® H33" by the company ASAHI GLASS; the amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H 33, SA Sunsphere® H53 by ASAHI GLASS, the precipitated silica microspheres, for example, coated with mineral wax such as polyethylene and especially sold under the name ACEMATT OK 412 by the company EVONIK DEGUSSA. As nylon powder, mention may be made of the nylon powder sold under the name ORGASOL 4000 by the company ATOCHEM. As acrylic polymer powder, mention may be made of: the polymethyl methacrylate powders sold under the name COVABEAD® LH85 by the company Wackherr; the poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE SKIN OIL ADSORBER by the company Dow Corning; GANZPEARL® GMP-0820 by the company GANZ CHEMICAL; the allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name POLYPORE® L200 and POLY-PORE® E200 by AMCOL Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Dow Corning. As the elastomeric silicone powder, mention may be made of the powders sold under the names "Trefil® Powder E-505C" and "Trefil® Powder E-506C" by the company Dow Corning. As silica silylate powders, mention may be made especially of those sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles 30 by Dow Corning (oil intake equal to 10.40 ml / g). As the expanded copolymer powders of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate, mention may be made of the microspheres of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate, sold under the trade name EXPANCEL by Nobel Casco and in particular under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size D (0.5) of about 12 μm and density of about 40 kg / m3), 551 DE 20 (particle size D (0.5) of about 15 to 25 μm and density of about 60 kg / m 3), 551 DE 50 (particle size D (0.5) of about 40 μm), 461 DE 50 and 642 WE 50 50 μm in particle size D (0.5) approximately 551 DE 80 (particle size D (0.5) approximately 50 to 80 pm). It is also possible to use particles of this same expanded terpolymer having a particle size D (0.5) of approximately 18 μm and a density of approximately 60 to 80 kg / m3 (Expancel EL23) or else of particle size D (0). 5) of about 34 pm and a density of about 20 kg / m3. The EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 d42 particles (particle size D (0.5) of approximately 30 to 50 μm and density of approximately 42 kg / m 3) can also be mentioned. 551 DE 80 d42 (particle size D (0.5) about 50 to 80 μm and density of about 42 kg / m3), 461 DE 20 d70 (particle size D (0.5) of about 15 to 25 μm and density of about 70 kg / m3) , 461 DE 40 d25 (particle size D (0.5) of about 35 to 55 μm and density of about 25 kg / m3), 461 DE 40 d60 (particle size D (0.5) of about 20 to 40 pm and density of about 60 kg / m 3), 461 DET 40 d25 (25 D (0.5) particle size of about 35 to 55 μm and density of about 25 kg / m 3), 051 DE 40 d 60 ( particle size D (0.5) of about 20 to 40 μm and density of about 60 kg / m3), 091 DE 40 d30 (particle size D (0.5) of about 35 to 55 μm and density of about 30 kg / m 3), 091 DE 80 d30 (particle size D (0.5) of about 60 to 90 μm and density of about 30 kg / m3). It is also possible to use polymer particles of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and unexpanded methyl methacrylate such as those sold under the trade name EXPANCEL with the reference 551 OF 10 ( particle size D (0.5) of about 10 μm) or 461 μm (particle size D (0.5) of about 15 μm).

Particularly preferred sebum-absorbing particles are silica powders, especially silica powders in particular precipitated and more particularly precipitated silica coated with wax and expanded copolymers of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate.

Preferably, the particles have a number average size ranging from 50 nm to 350 microns, better still from 100 nm to 100 microns, and even more preferentially from 0.5 to 100 microns. The particles absorbing sebum may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Measurement method for taking sebum from a powder: Sebum intake of a powder is measured according to the method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of sebum adsorbed on the available surface of the powder by measuring the Wet Point. An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on a glass plate and artificial sebum having the following composition is added dropwise. : - triolein 29% - oleic acid 28.5% - oleyl oleate 18.5% 20 - squalene 14% - cholesterol 7% - cholesterol palmitate 3% After addition of 4 to 5 drops of artificial sebum, incorporates the artificial sebum into the powder with a spatula and artificial sebum is added to the formation of conglomerates of artificial sebum and powder. From this moment, the artificial sebum is added at a rate of one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of artificial sebum is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of artificial sebum used. Sebum intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

The composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological, preferably cosmetic.

The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer to use this composition. The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of lotion or gel-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol.

The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention generally vary from 20 mPa.s to 20 Pa.s, preferably from 100 mPas to 2 Pas. This viscosity is measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat 180. When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, this preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances. As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810", "812" and "818" by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; Esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain , branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, stearate of octy1-2-dodecyl, octy1-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; , oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; Silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, 25 groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; Their mixtures.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, preferably O / W emulsion. The O / W emulsion also includes emulsified gels. Emulsified gels are understood to mean the dispersions of oils in an aqueous gel. The addition of surfactant is optional for this dosage form. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 2 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, and the alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Abil EM 900" by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (Synthesis Example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu. For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

The composition may be an aqueous gel, and in particular comprise conventional aqueous gelling agents. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally glycols, ethanol and / or hydrophilic adjuvants, optionally water-soluble at room temperature. The proportion of the aqueous phase of the compositions may range from 20 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 60 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 9. Preferably, the pH of the composition ranges from 4 to 8. The composition according to the invention may be a composition for the care, cleaning or makeup of the skin of the body or face, in particular, a composition for the care. The skin care composition may for example be a cream, a gel or a fluid for the face. The makeup composition of the skin may be for example a complexion base, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a concealer product or a body makeup product. Additives: The composition according to the present invention may further contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as emulsifiers; charges ; conservatives; sequestering agents; dyes; perfumes ; thickeners and gelling agents, in particular homo-and copolymers of acrylamide, acrylic homo- and copolymers and homo-and copolymers of acrylamido methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPSC)); UV filters.

Advantageously, to enhance the mattifying effects of the composition according to the invention, it further comprises at least one active agent for the care of oily skin. This active agent is preferably chosen from desquamating, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating and antioxidant agents.

It may also contain cosmetic assets other than those for the care of oily skin, such as moisturizers and vitamins. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered. Active ingredient for oily skin care In the context of the present invention, the term "active ingredient for oily skin" is intended to mean a compound that has by itself, that is to say, that does not require the intervention of an external agent to activate it, a biological activity which may be in particular: 25 - an desquamating activity (which allows the opening of comedones), and / or - an antimicrobial activity (especially on P acnes), and / or - an anti-inflammatory activity, and / or - sebo-regulatory activity, and / or - an antioxidant activity (which prevents the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones).

The skincare active ingredient may therefore be chosen from: desquamating agents and / or anti-microbial and / or anti-inflammatory and / or seboregulators and / or anti-oxidants. 1. desquamating agents "desquamating agent" means any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 13-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (of which 5-salicylic noctanoyl acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulphonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine. N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid is preferred for use in the present invention. 2. Anti-microbial Agents The anti-microbial agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention may especially be chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), the 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopiroxe, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid , 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-Lysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 2,4,4 trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox, octo xyglycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in WO9318743, copper pidolate, salicylic acid, zinc salicylate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof. Preferred antimicrobial agents are octoxyglycerine, copper pidolate, zinc salicylate, salicylic acid, and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. 3. Anti-inflammatory agents As anti-inflammatory or soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, such as 13-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or derivatives (glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, bisabolol, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, phycosaccharides from Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and camomile extract, allantoin, sepivital EPC (diesterphosphoric vitamin E and C) of Seppic, unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rosehip, blackcurrant, echium, fish oil , plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, Seppicum Seppicalm VG (sodium palmitoylproline and nymphea alba), an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum usitatissimum, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, extracts of Centella asiatica, piperonal, a clove extract, an extract of Epilobium Angustifolium, aloe vera, an extract of Bacopa monieri, phytosterols, the niacinamide, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone. The preferred anti-inflammatory agents for use in the present invention are Centella asiatica extracts, I3-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts, alpha-bisabolol and niacinamide. 4. Sebo-regulating agents When the composition according to the invention comprises a sebo-regulatory agent such as a 5α-reductase inhibitor, it may especially be chosen from: retinoids, and in particular retinol; sulfur and sulfur derivatives; zinc salts such as lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate and / or zinc cysteate; - selenium chloride; vitamin B6 or pyridoxine; the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol; an extract of Laminaria saccharina marketed in particular by the company SECMA under the trade name Phlorogine; an extract of Spiraea ulmaria marketed in particular by the company Silab under the trade name Sebonorminê; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; an extract from Serenoa repens marketed in particular by the company EUROMED; extracts of plants of the genus Silybum; Plant extracts containing sapogenins and in particular extracts of Dioscorea rich in diosgenin; and Eugenia caryophyllata extracts containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside. Zinc salts are preferred for use in the present invention. 5. Antioxidants The preferred anti-oxidants for use in the present invention may be selected from tocopherol and its esters, such as tocopherol acetate; BHT and BHA. The active agent (s) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 0.1 to 25% and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. The invention also a cosmetic process for the care and / or make-up of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to the invention. More specifically, it is a method for mattifying the skin and / or reducing its gloss. 2 992 188 26 By "matifying" is meant to make the skin more matte, reduce its shine, and therefore its unsightly reflections. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention for the care of combination and / or oily skin. The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. In these examples, the amounts are indicated in weight percent. The compounds are, as the case may be, cited in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1 An oil / water emulsion cream for the care of the face was prepared having the following composition: Isopropyl N-amyl N-lauroylsarcosinate (AJINOMOTO ELDEW SL 205) 2 Aerogel (Dow Corning VM) -2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES) 1 PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1 (EUMULGIN HRE 60 from COGNIS DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL (trade name 2 (XIAMETER PMX-1503 FLUID from Dow Corning) Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (HOSTACERIN AMPS® from CLARIANT) 0, SODIUM POLYACRYLATE (COSMEDIA SP 0.2 COGNIS) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Butylene Glycol 6 Xanthan Gum 0.15 Water qs 100 This composition is fluid and stable The silica particles are finely dispersed.

This composition can be applied morning and / or evening on the face to matify combination and oily skin. EXAMPLE 2 A cream was prepared in the form of an oil / water emulsion for the treatment of the face, having the following composition: ## STR5 ## 2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES) 0.5 0.5 PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0.5 ((EUMULGIN HRE 60 from COGNIS) Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (HOSTACERIN AMPS® from CLARIANT) 0.4 0.4 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 Butylene Glycol 3 3 Ethanol 6 6 Salicylic acid 0.5 0.510 Triethanolamine 0.65 0.65 Xanthan gum 0.15 0.15 Water qs 100 100 A very stable aerogel dispersion is obtained which is stable (microscopically and over time) and an improvement in the measurement of the dullness with respect to the same formula without the surfactant (comp B).

Claims (20)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least hydrophobic aerogel particles, and b) at least one oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant of HLB ranging from 15 to 20. 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic airgel particles have a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 200 to 1500 m 2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) less than at 1500 pm. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophobic airgel particles have a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. 4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophobic airgel particles have a size expressed in volume average diameter ranging from 5 to 25 μm and more preferably from 5 to 20 μm. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophobic airgel particles have a packed density ranging from 0.02 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.039 / cm3 to 0.08 g. / cm3. 25 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the hydrophobic airgel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better still 15 to 40 m2 / cm3. 30 7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the hydrophobic airgel particles have an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably 6 at 15 ml / g and better still at 8 to 12 mVg. 35 The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hydrophobic airgel particles are organic, inorganic or organic-inorganic hybrids. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hydrophobic airgel particles are airgel particles of hydrophobic silica and preferably silylated silica and more particularly trimethylsiloxylated silica airgel particles. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight. % by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said surfactant is chosen from ethoxylated nonionic surfactants with a HLB ranging from 15 to 17. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said surfactant is chosen from oxyethylenated triglycerides of from 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 40 to 80 moles of ethylene oxide. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said surfactant is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and very preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises a C2-C8 diol. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises a particle absorbing sebum. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one skincare active ingredient chosen from desquamating, antimicrobial, and-inflammatory, sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory agents. oxidants. 17. Cosmetic skin care and / or makeup process, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 15. 18. The method of claim 17, characterized in that it is a method for matting the skin and / or reducing its gloss. 19. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, for the care of combination and / or oily skin. 20