FR2952303A1 - Composition, useful e.g. to care combination skin, comprises concave or annular particles made of organosilicone material, sebum-absorbing particle, and non-ionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprises: concave or annular particles made of a organosilicone material; at least one sebum-absorbing particle having a plug of sebum; and at least one non-ionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene polymer, in a medium.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and in particular the skin.

It relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) concave or annular particles consisting of an organosilicone material; (b) at least one sebum absorbing particle having a sebum intake; (c) at least one non-ionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymer.

The invention also relates to a method of care and / or makeup of the skin comprising the topical application of the composition to the skin.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for mattifying the skin and / or reducing its gloss, comprising the topical application to the skin of the above-mentioned composition.

The shine of the skin, generally related to a high secretion of sebum, is a problem which affects mainly adolescents, but which can also manifest itself in adulthood under the effect in particular of hyper-production of androgens or external factors such as pollution. The shine of the skin can also be related to sweat, resulting from physical activity or weather conditions.

Obtaining a matte effect of the skin is highly sought after by users with combination or oily skin, as well as for cosmetic compositions intended to be used in hot and humid climates. The reflections caused by an excess of sebum on the surface of the skin are indeed generally regarded as unsightly. A shiny skin also generally results in a poorer hold of the makeup which thus tends to degrade during the day.

In addition to the use of agents known as "sebo-regulators", that is to say capable of helping to regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands by an action that can be described as biological, an effective means of rapidly reducing unsightly areas of gloss is the use of "soft-focus" blur fillers. The use of sebum and sweat absorbing fillers is also a way of prolonging dullness over time.

It is known to use perlite (FR 2881643), pyrogenic fillers (EP 1 637 186) or fibers as matting agents.

Crosslinked silicones (KSG) are also widely used as a matting agent. But unfortunately, to obtain the matifying effect, the crosslinked silicone content should constitute at least 20% of the composition which is a brake in the choice of texture and in the cost of the formulation.

However, there is still a need for mattifying cosmetic compositions having good cosmetic properties, and in particular providing an effective (strong), immediate, and / or durable matting effect over time.

The Applicant has discovered that this need could be satisfied by combining in a composition, concave or annular particles of silicone material, sebum-absorbing particles, and a non-ionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymer. The composition thus obtained makes it possible to improve the dullness of the skin remanently. The skin thus remains permanently matified.

The concave or annular particles of silicone material are known from patent application EP 1 530 961 to have a matting effect. Application FR 04 50887 also discloses mattifying compositions comprising compounds that absorb or adsorb sebum, associated with a polydimethylsiloxane-type oxyethylenated nonionic polymer. However, to the knowledge of the Applicant has never been described composition according to the present invention. The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) concave or annular particles made of an organosilicone material; (b) at least one sebum absorbing particle having a sebum intake; (c) at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxane polymer.

The constituents of the composition according to the invention will now be described in more detail.

Concave or annular particles of silicone material The concave or annular particles present in the composition according to the invention are silicone particles.

In particular, they are particles of portions of hollow spheres made of an organosilicone material.

Said particles have an average diameter less than or equal to 10 μm, in particular between 0.05 μm and 10 μm. This mean diameter ranges from 0.1 μm to 8 μm, preferably from 0.2 to 7 μm, more preferably from 0.5 to 6 μm, and more preferably from 0.5 to 4 μm. By mean diameter is meant the largest dimension of the particle. Advantageously, these particles have a density greater than 1. The portions of hollow spheres used in the composition according to the invention may have the form of truncated hollow spheres, having a single orifice communicating with their central cavity, and having a section cross-shaped horseshoe or arch. The organosilicon material is a cross-linked polysiloxane of three-dimensional structure; it preferably comprises, or even consists of, units of formula (I): SiO2 and of formula (II): R'SiO ,, in which R 'denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly connected to the silicon atom.

The organic group R 'may be a reactive organic group, a non-reactive organic group, and preferably a non-reactive organic group.

The non-reactive organic group may be a C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl group, or a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl group.

The reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl, haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group, a cyano group. Preferably, the reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl group. The reactive organic group generally comprises from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

As the epoxy group, there may be mentioned a 2-glycidoxyethyl group, a 3-20 glycidoxypropyl group, a 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) propyl group.

As the (meth) acryloxy group, there may be mentioned a 3-methacryloxypropyl group, a 3-acryloxypropyl group.

As the alkenyl group, there may be mentioned a vinyl, allyl, isopropenyl group.

As mercaptoalkyl group, there may be mentioned a mercaptopropyl, mercaptoethyl group.

As the aminoalkyl group, there may be mentioned 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropyl, 3-aminopropyl, N, N-dimethylaminopropyl.

Haloalkyl is 3-chloropropyl, trifluoropropyl.

As glyceroxy group, there may be mentioned a 3-glyceroxypropyl group, a 2-glyceroxyethyl group.

As the ureido group, there may be mentioned a 2-ureidoethyl group.

As the cyano group, there may be mentioned a cyanopropyl, cyanoethyl group.

Preferably, in the unit of formula (II), R 'denotes a methyl group. Advantageously, the organosilicone material comprises the units (I) and (II) in a molar ratio of unit (I) / unit (II) ranging from 30/70 to 50/50, preferably ranging from 35/65 to 45/55. .

The organosilicon particles may in particular be capable of being obtained by a process comprising: (a) introduction into an aqueous medium, in the presence of at least one hydrolysis catalyst, and optionally at least one surfactant; , a compound (III) of the formula SiX4 and a compound (IV) of the formula RSiY3, wherein X and Y denote independently of one another a C1-C4 alkoxy group, an alkoxyethoxy group containing a C1-C4 alkoxy group, a C2-C4 acyloxy group, an N, N-dialkylamino group containing a C1-C4 alkyl group, a hydroxyl group, a halogen atom or a hydrogen atom, and R stands for an organic group having a carbon atom directly attached to the silicon atom; and (b) contacting the mixture resulting from step (a) with an aqueous solution containing at least one polymerization catalyst and optionally at least one surfactant, at a temperature between 30 and 85 ° C, while at at least two hours.

Step (a) corresponds to a hydrolysis reaction and step (b) corresponds to a condensation reaction.

In step (a), the molar ratio of the compound (III) to the compound (IV) is usually 30/70 to 50/50, preferably 35/65 to 45/45, and is preferably 40/60. . The weight ratio of water to total of compounds (III) and (IV) is preferably from 10/90 to 70/30. The order of introduction of the compounds (III) and (IV) generally depends on their rate of hydrolysis. The temperature of the hydrolysis reaction is generally from 0 to 40 ° C and usually does not exceed 30 ° C to avoid premature condensation of the compounds.

For the groups X and Y of the compounds (III) and (IV): - as alkoxy group C1-C4, there may be mentioned methoxy, ethoxy; as the alkoxyethoxy group containing a C1-C4 alkoxy group, mention may be made of methoxyethoxy and butoxyethoxy groups; as C2-C4 alkoxy group, there may be mentioned acetoxy and propoxy groups; as the N, N-dilakylamino group containing a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, mention may be made of dimethylamino and diethylamino groups; as the halogen atom, mention may be made of the chlorine and bromine atoms.

As compounds of formula (III), there may be mentioned tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane, trimethoxyethoxysilane, tributoxyethoxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetrapropioxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetra (dimethylamino) silane, tetra (diethylamino) silane, silane tetraol, chlorosilane triol, dichlorodisilanol, tetrachlorosilane, chlorotrihydrogensilane. Preferably, the compound of formula (III) is chosen from tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane and tetrabutoxysilane, and mixtures thereof.

The compound of formula (III) leads after the polymerization reaction to the formation of units of formula (I). The compound of formula (IV) leads after the polymerization reaction to the formation of units of formula (II).

The group R in the compound of formula (IV) has the meaning as described for the group R 'for the compound of formula (II).

Examples of compounds of formula (IV) having a nonreactive organic group R include methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltributoxysilane, butyltributoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxyethoxysilane, methyl tributoxyethoxysilane, methyltriacetoxysilane, methyltripropioxysilane and methyltriacetoxysilane. methyltri (dimethylamino) silane, methyltri (diethylamino) silane, methylsilane triol, methylchlorodisilanol, methyltrichlorosilane, methyltrihydrogensilane.

Examples of compounds of formula (IV) having a reactive organic group R include: silanes having an epoxy group such as 3-glycidoxypropyl trimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropyl triethoxysilane, 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) ethyl trimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropylmethyl dimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropylmethyl dimethoxysilane, 2-glycidoxyethylmethyldimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropyl dimethylmethoxysilane, 2-glycidoxyethyl dimethylmethoxysilane; silanes having a (meth) acryloxy group such as 3-methacryloxypropyl trimethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having an alkenyl group such as vinyl trimethoxysilane, allyl trimethoxysilane, isopropenyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having a mercapto group such as mercaptopropyl trimethoxysilane, mercaptoethyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having an aminoalkyl group such as 3-aminopropyl trimethoxysilane, 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropyl trimethoxysilane, N, N-dimethylaminopropyl trimethoxysilane, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having a haloalkyl group such as 3-chloropropyl trimethoxysilane, trifluoropropyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having a glyceroxy group such as 3-glyceroxypropyl trimethoxysilane, di (3-glyceroxypropyl) dimethoxysilane; silanes having a ureido group such as 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane, 3-ureidopropylmethyldimethoxysilane, 3-ureidopropyl dimethylmethoxysilane; silanes having a cyano group such as cyanopropyl trimethoxysilane, cyanopropyl methyldimethoxysilane, cyanopropyl dimethylmethoxysilane.

Preferably, the compound of formula (IV) having a reactive organic group R is chosen from silanes having an epoxy group, silanes having a (meth) acryloxy group, silanes having an alkenyl group, silanes having a mercapto group, silanes having an aminoalkyl group.

Examples of compounds (III) and (IV) preferred for the practice of this invention are tetraethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane, respectively.

As catalysts for hydrolysis and polymerization, basic catalysts - such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate, or amines (such as ammonia) can be used independently. trimethylamine, triethylamine, tetramethylammonium hydroxide) - or acid catalysts, chosen from organic acids - such as citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-toulenesulphonic acid, dodecylbenzenesulphonic acid , dodecylsulfonic acid - or minerals - such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid. When present, the surfactant used is preferably a nonionic or anionic surfactant or a mixture of both. Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate can be used as anionic surfactant. The end of the hydrolysis is marked by the disappearance of products (III) and (IV), insoluble in water, and obtaining a homogeneous liquid layer.

The condensation step (b) may use the same catalyst as the hydrolysis step or another catalyst selected from those mentioned above.

At the end of this process, a suspension in water of fine organosilicone particles is obtained which may optionally subsequently be separated from their medium. The method described above may therefore comprise an additional filtration step, for example on a membrane filter, of the product resulting from step (b), optionally followed by a centrifugation step of the filtrate intended to separate the particles from the liquid medium, then a drying step of the particles. Other separation methods can of course be employed.

The shape of the hollow sphere portions obtained according to the above method, as well as their dimensions, will depend in particular on the method of contacting the products in step (b).

A rather basic pH and a cold introduction of the polymerization catalyst into the mixture resulting from step (a) will lead to round-bottomed "bowl" hollow sphere portions, while a rather acidic pH, and drip introduction of the mixture from step (a) into the hot polymerization catalyst will result in hollow sphere portions having a horseshoe-shaped cross-section.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, portions of hollow spheres in the form of "bowls" are used. These can be obtained as described in JP-2003 128 788. Portions of horseshoe-shaped hollow spheres are also described in JP-A-2000-191789.

The appended FIG. 1 illustrates a concave particle in the form of portions of bowl-shaped spheres in cross-section. The width W2 corresponds to the diameter of the particles. As is apparent from this figure, these concave portions are formed (in section perpendicular to a plane of the opening delimited by the hollow sphere portion) of a small internal arc (11), a large external arc (21 ) and segments (31) which connect the ends of the respective arcs, the width (W1) between the two ends of the small inner arc (11) ranging from 0.01 to 8 μm, preferably from 0.02 to 6 μm in the width (W2) between the ends of the large external arc (21) ranging from 0.05 to 10 μm, preferably from 0.06 to 8 μm on average, and the height (H) of the large external arc ( 21) ranging from 0.015 to 8 μm, preferably from 0.03 to 6 μm on average. The dimensions mentioned above are obtained by averaging the dimensions of one hundred selected particles on an image obtained by scanning electron microscope.

As concave particles of portions of spheres that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: the particles consisting of the cross-linked organosilicone TAK-110 (cross-linked methylsilanol / silicate polymer) from the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, in the form of a bowl, with a width of 2.5 μm, a height of 1.2 μm and a thickness of 150 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat) -the particles made up of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (polymer crosslinked methylsilanol / silicate) from Takemoto OIL & FAT, in the form of a bowl, of a width of 0.8 μm, a height of 0.4 μm and a thickness of 130 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-515 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat) - particles consisting of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, bowl-shaped, of width 7 μm, height 3.5 μm and 200 nm thickness (particles sold under the name ination NLK-510 by Takemoto Oil & Fat).

These particles used in the composition according to the invention are CTFA: methylsilanol / silicate crosspolymer.

Advantageously, the concave silicone particles have an average diameter less than or equal to 5 μm, especially ranging from 0.1 μm to 5 μm, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 5 μm, more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 4 μm, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3 μm.

The silicone particles of annular shape are preferably chosen from those described and synthesized in the application US-A-2006/0089478. They have an average outside diameter of 0.05 to 15 μm and an average inside diameter of 001 to 10 μm; the difference between the average outside diameter and the inside average diameter being 0.04 to 5 μm.

They have a polysiloxane network comprising siloxane units of formula (1), (2) (3) (4) (5) and (6): 5iO4 / 2 (1) Si (OH) 3/2 (2) R ' SiO3 / 2 (3) R2SiO3 / 2 (4) R3 (SiOH) 2/2 (5) R4 (SiOH) 2/2 (6) in which - R 'and R3 denote non-reactive hydrocarbon groups, especially groups Alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or aralkyl, preferably C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl, and preferably a methyl group; - R2 and R4 each denote a hydrocarbon group selected from acryloxy, methacryloxy, vinyl or mercapto; the molar ratio siloxane units of formula (1) / siloxane units of formula (2), (3), (4), (5) and (6) being from 20/80 to 50/50; the molar ratio of siloxane units of formula (2), (3) and (4) / siloxane units of formula (5) and (6) being from 50/50 to 75/25; the molar ratio of siloxane units of formula (3) and (5) / siloxane units of formula (4) and (6) being from 20/80 to 60/40. As the acryloxy group, there may be mentioned a 2-methacryloxyethyl group, a 3-acryloxypropyl group.

As the (meth) acryloxy group, there may be mentioned a 3-methacryloxypropyl group, a 3-acryloxypropyl group.

As mercaptoalkyl group, there may be mentioned a mercaptopropyl, mercaptoethyl group.

As vinyl group, there may be mentioned allyl, isopropenyl, 2-methylallyl groups. These particles have the effect of matifying the skin (reduce its gloss).

The concave or annular silicone particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Sebum-absorbing particles

The composition according to the invention contains a sebum-absorbing particle having an intake of sebum.

Advantageously, the sebum-absorbing particles have a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 10 ml / 100 g, in particular greater than or equal to 20 ml / 100 g, and in particular greater than or equal to 30 ml / 100 g.

The term "particle absorbing sebum" means a powder capable of absorbing and / or adsorbing sebum. Generally, this type of particle is in the form of a particulate powder having an intake of sebum. Sebum intake is the amount of sebum absorbed and / or adsorbed by the particle. It is measured according to the Wet Point method described below.

Advantageously, the sebum absorbing particle may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m 2 / g, preferably greater than 500 m 2 / g, and preferably greater than 600 m 2 / g, and especially less than 1500 m 2 / g.

The "BET specific surface area" is determined according to the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (therefore micropores included) of the particle, and in particular of the powder.

The particle absorbing sebum may be a mineral powder or an organic powder. More specifically, the particle absorbing sebum may be chosen from: - silica, - polyamide powders (nylon®), - acrylic polymer powders, especially polymethyl methacrylate, poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene dimethacrylate glycol, allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; the elastomeric silicone powders, in particular obtained by polymerization of organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in the presence of platinum catalyst; - their mixture.

The sebum absorbing particle may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

As representative and non-limiting examples of sebum-absorbing particles according to the invention, mention may be made of the particles below.

As silica powder, mention may be made of: the porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 by the company MYOSHI; "SUNSPHERE® H51", "SUNSPHERE® H33" by the company ASAHI GLASS; polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name "SA SUNSPHERE® H 33", "SA SUNSPHERE® H53" by the company ASAHI GLASS.

As nylon powder, mention may be made of the nylon powder sold under the name ORGASOL® 4000 by the company ATOCHEM. As the acrylic polymer powder, mention may be made of: the polymethyl methacrylate powders sold under the name COVABEAD® LH85 by the company Wackherr; the poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER by the company Dow Corning; GANZPEARL® GMP-0820 by the company GANZ CHEMICAL; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name POLY-PORE® L200 and POLY-PORE® E200 by AMCOL Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Dow Corning. As elastomeric silicone powder, mention may be made of the powders sold under the names "Trefil® Powder E-505C" and "Trefil® Powder E-506C" by the company Dow Corning.

The particularly preferred sebum-absorbing particle is an allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, especially having the characteristics described above, in particular having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 1 ml / g, in particular ranging from 1 ml. / g at 20 ml / g. Such allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder is sold, for example, under the name POLY-PORE® E200 by AMCOL Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.

These particles have the effect of absorbing sebum, mattifying the skin (reduce its gloss).

The particle that absorbs sebum may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0%. From 5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Measurement method of sebum of a powder:

Sebum intake of a powder is measured according to the powder oil uptake determination method described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of sebum adsorbed on the available surface of the powder by measuring the Wet Point.

An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on a glass plate and artificial sebum having the following composition is added dropwise. : - triolein - oleic acid - oleyl oleate - squalene - cholesterol - cholesterol palmitate

After addition of 4 to 5 drops of artificial sebum, the artificial sebum is incorporated in the powder using a spatula and artificial sebum is added until the formation of conglomerates of artificial sebum and powder. From this moment, the artificial sebum is added at a rate of one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of artificial sebum is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of artificial sebum used.

Sebum intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

Nonionic oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymers, water-soluble or water-dispersible

The term "water-soluble polymer" means a polymer having a solubility in water at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) of at least 1% by weight. The term "water-dispersible polymer" means a polymer capable of dispersing in water without precipitating. The silicones that may be used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II): ## STR5 ## (R 5 Si), (R 5 Si) v-2 [(OSiR 5) u / vO-P] v (II) with:

- P = - (OC2H4) y- (OC3H6) z-OR7-R, = C1-C4 alkyl - the R5 radicals, which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, aryl and aralkyl groups containing no more of 10 carbon atoms and preferably selected from C1-C4 lower alkyls such as methyl, ethyl, butyl or selected from phenyl and benzyl and even more preferentially all refer to methyl; u is 0 to 59, preferably 10 to 50 and more preferably 12 to 25; - v is 1 to 12, preferably 4 to 10 and more preferably 5 to 8; E denotes a group -CXH2z (OC2H4) y- (OC3H6) Z-OR6 where: x is 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 4 and more preferably 3; - y> 0 and z 0; y and z are chosen so that the total molar mass of the radical E varies from 200 to 10,000 g / mol and more preferably from 350 to 3000; preferably, the number z is zero; - R6 is hydrogen; a C1-C8 alkyl radical, linear or branched, preferably C1-C4 as methyl; a C2-C8 acyl radical, preferably a C2-C4 acyl radical.

In formula E, when z is positive, the oxyethylene and oxypropylene units may be randomly distributed in the polyether chain E and / or in block form.

The silicones according to the invention are known and in particular described in US Pat. No. 5,338,352 and their mode of preparation is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,847,398. Such silicones of formula (I) are for example sold by OSI under the trade names, Silwet L-7002®, Silwet L-7600®, Silwet L-7604®, Silwet L-7605®, Silwet L-7607® , Silwet 1614, Silwet L-7657®, Silwet L-7200®, Silwet L7230, or by General Electric under the trade names Silsoft® 305 (INCI name: PEG-5 / PPG-3 trisiloxane), Silsoft® 820, Silsoft® 880 (INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone), Silsoft® 890, Silsoft® 430 (INCI name: PEG / PPG-20/23 Dimethicone), Silsoft® 900 (INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone). Silsoft® 880 and 430 are used on a preferential basis. Such silicones of formula (II) are for example sold by the company OSI under the trade names Silwet L-720®, Silwet L-720 AP, Silwet L-722®, Silwet L-7657®, Silwet L-7200® , Silwet L7230.

Such silicones are also sold by Goldschmidt under the trade names Tegowet® 260, Tegowet® 500, Tegowet® 505 and Tegowet® 510.

The nonionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymers (wetting agents) that may be used in the context of the present invention may be used alone or in mixtures. Advantageously, the polymer used according to the invention is such that, introduced in aqueous solution at 0.05% (by weight) at 25 ° C., it makes it possible to reduce the surface tension of the water to a value of less than 35 mN / m. and preferably less than 30 mN / m.

The following table gathers surface tension values at 25 ° C of aqueous solutions comprising 0.05% (by weight) of different wetting agents. Wetting agent 0.05% surface tension in water (mN / m) Tegowet 500 33 Tegowet 510 29 Silsoft 880 26 Silsoft 305 21 20 25 The water-soluble or water-dispersible nonionic oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymers can be present in the composition according to the present invention. the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible nonionic oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymers (wetting or fluidizing agents) make it possible to homogenise the sebum for a better distribution on the skin and thus easier contact with the absorbent fillers.

The composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological, preferably cosmetic.

The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer to use this composition.

The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of lotion or gel-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semisolid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. The composition according to the invention may alternatively be in anhydrous form such as sticks or compact or free powders. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, of squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810", "812" and "818" by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a chain hydrocarbonaceous, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearic acid, octyl-2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, preferably O / W emulsion.

The O / W emulsion also includes emulsified gels. Emulsified gels are understood to mean the dispersions of oils in an aqueous gel. The addition of surfactant is optional for this dosage form.

The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 2 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols. such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (Synthesis Example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu.

Examples of O / W emulsions which may be mentioned as emulsifiers are nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate. The composition may be an aqueous gel, and in particular comprise conventional aqueous gelling agents.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally glycols, ethanol and / or hydrophilic adjuvants, optionally water-soluble at room temperature.

The composition according to the invention may be a composition for the care, cleaning or makeup of the skin of the body or face, in particular a composition for care. The skin care composition may for example be a cream, a gel or a fluid for the face. The makeup composition of the skin may be for example a foundation, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a concealer, a powder of the face and body, or a makeup product of the body.

Additives:

The composition according to the present invention may further contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as emulsifiers; charges ; conservatives; sequestering agents; dyes; perfumes ; thickeners and gelling agents, in particular acrylamide homo- and copolymers, acrylic homo- and copolymers and homo- and copolymers of acrylamido methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS); UV filters. Advantageously, to enhance the mattifying effects of the composition according to the invention, it also comprises at least one active ingredient for the care of oily skin. This active agent is preferably chosen from desquamating, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating and antioxidant agents. It may also contain cosmetic active agents other than those for the care of oily skin, for example moisturizers and vitamins.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. .

Skincare active ingredient for the skins By the expression "skincare skincare active" is meant, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent to activate it, a biological activity which may be in particular: - an desquamating activity (which allows the opening of comedones), and / or - an antimicrobial activity (especially on P. acnes), and / or - an anti-inflammatory activity, and / or - sebo-regulatory activity, and / or - an antioxidant activity (which prevents the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones).

The active ingredient for oily skin may therefore be chosen from: desquamating and / or anti-microbial and / or anti-inflammatory and / or sebum-regulating and / or anti-oxidizing agents.

1. desquamating agents

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as [3-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (of which -octanoyl 5-salicylic); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;

or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid is preferred for use in the present invention.

2. Anti-microbial agents

The antimicrobial agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention may especially be chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4 trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopiroxe, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, acid 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 2,4,4'- trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox, octoxyglycerine, o octylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent WO9318743, copper pidolate, salicylic acid, zinc salicylate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof.

Preferred antimicrobial agents are octoxyglycerine, copper pidolate, zinc salicylate, salicylic acid and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate.

3. Anti-inflammatory agents As anti-inflammatory or soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, for example [3-glycyrrhetinic acid] and its salts and / or derivatives (glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, bisabolol, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, phycosaccharides from Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and chamomile extracts, allantoin, sepivital EPC (diesterphosphoric vitamin E and C) from Seppic, unsaturated oils in omega 3 such as rosehip, black currant, echium, fish, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, Seppicum VG (sodium palmitoylproline and nymphea alba) from Seppic, an extract from Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum usitatissimum , tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, extracts of Centella asiatica, piperonal, an extract of clove, an extract of Epilobium Angustifolium, aloe vera, an extract of Bacopa monieri, phytosterols, niacinamide, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone.

Preferred anti-inflammatory agents for use in the present invention are Centella asiatica extracts, [3-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts, alphabisabolol and niacinamide.

4. Sebo-regulating agents When the composition according to the invention comprises a sebum-regulating agent such as a 5α-reductase inhibitor, it may especially be chosen from:

retinoids, and in particular retinol; Sulfur and sulfur derivatives; zinc salts such as lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate and / or zinc cysteate; - selenium chloride; vitamin B6 or pyridoxine; the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5®; an extract of Laminaria saccharina marketed in particular by SECMA under the trademark Phlorogine®; an extract of Spiraea ulmaria marketed in particular by the company Silab under the trade name Sebonormine®; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; an extract from Serenoa repens marketed in particular by the company EUROMED; extracts of plants of the genus Silybum; plant extracts containing sapogenins and in particular extracts of Dioscorea rich in diosgenin; and Eugenia caryophyllata extracts containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside.

Zinc salts are preferred for use in the present invention. 5. Antioxidants

Preferred anti-oxidant agents for use in the present invention may be selected from tocopherol and its esters, such as tocopherol acetate; BHT and BHA. The active agent (s) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 0.1 to 25% and better still from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. The invention further still a cosmetic method of care and / or make-up of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to the invention.

More specifically, it is a method for mattifying the skin and / or reducing its gloss. By "matifying" is meant to make the skin more matte, reduce its shine, and therefore its unsightly reflections. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention for the care of combination and / or oily skin.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. In these examples, the amounts are indicated in weight percent. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). EXAMPLES Example 1: Compositions

EXAMPLE 1.1 Cream A cream in the form of oil / water emulsion for the care of the face having the following composition was prepared: Phase A: Glycerol 7% Propylene Glycol 2% Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Water qs 100% Phase B: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (Hostacerin AMPS) 1% Phase C: Glycerine (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Carbomer (Lubrajel® MS) 5% D phase: Cyclopenta Dimethylsiloxane 4% Poly Dimethylsiloxane (Viscosity: 10 CST) 3% PEG-12 Dimethicone3 0, 5% Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol 1% Phase E: Fucose-rich polysaccharide (Fucogel®) 2% Phase F: Hydroxyethyl urea 5% G phase: Micropshers of poly allyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (35/65) 3% Methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer2 2% Phase H: Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol 5% 1: POLY-PORE® E200 2: NLK-506 3: SILSOFT® 880 Procedure: The ingredients of Phase A were dispersed in the following manner: water of this same phase at 25 ° C with magnetic stirring. Phase B was then dispersed, in a mixer, in phase A. A smooth gel without grains was thus obtained.

Phases C, D, E, F, G, H were then introduced one by one under the mixer. This composition can be applied morning and / or evening on the face to matify combination and oily skin.

Example 1.2 Lotion in Emulsion Form Oil / Water Phase Al: Water QSP 100 Glycerine 6 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 EDTA 0.15% Preservative 0.2 Phase A2: Potassium Lauryl Sulfate 0.2 Phase B1: Glyceryl Stearate & PEG -100 Stearate (Arlacel 165 FL) 0.4 Glyceryl Stearate & Glyceryl Distearate 1% Mineral Oil 4 0/0 Cetearyl Alcohol (Lanette 0) 2.5 0/0 Vaseline 0.5 0/0 PEG / PPG -20 / 23 Dimethicone '0.3 Phase B2: Shea Butter% Phase C: Carbomer (Synthalen® K) 0.4% Xanthan Gum 0.15% Phase D: Sodium Hydroxide 0.05% Water % E phase: Methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer 2% Silica 3 2% 1: Silsoft® 430 2: NLK-506 s: SUNSPHERE® H51 from AGC SI-TECH

Procedure: Phase A is prepared by adding the ingredients of Phases A1 and A2, and heating with stirring at 65 ° C to obtain a homogeneous medium. Phase B is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase B1, heating to 65 ° C with stirring until complete melting (homogeneous and transparent mixture), then adding the ingredients of Phase B2. It is then necessary to homogenize with stirring for a few minutes. Phase B is added to the main vessel containing Phase A at 65 ° C. under a turbine for 30 minutes. The mixture is cooled to 30 ° C. Phase C is added. The mixture is neutralized with Phase D with gentle stirring. Then Phase E is dispersed with stirring.

EXAMPLE 2 Measurement of Maturity / Shine Composition Composition Composition ABC Glycerol 7% 7% 7% Absolute Denatured Ethyl Alcohol 5% 5% 5% Glycerine (and) Propylene Glycol 5% 5% 5% (and) Carbomer (Lubrajel® MS ) Hydroxyethyl urea 5% 5% 5% Cyclopenta Dimethylsiloxane 4% 4% 4% Poly Dimethylsiloxane 3% 3% 3% (Viscosity: 10 CST) Micropers of poly 3% 3% - allyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate ( 35/65) 1 Propylene Glycol 2% 2% 2% Fucose-rich polysaccharide (Fucogel®) 2% 2% 2% Cross-linked polymer 2% 2% 2% methylsilanol / silicate2 Ammonium 1% 1% 1% Polyacryldimethyltauramide (Hostacerin AMPS) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 1% 1% 1% Dimethiconol Phenoxyethanol 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% PEG-12 Dimethicone3 0.5% - 0.5% Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100%: POLY- PORE® E200 2: NLK-506 3: SILSOFT® 880 2.1. Maturity measurement by in vitro evaluation

The mattness obtained with the composition A according to the invention, and with the compositions B and C given by way of comparative example, was measured using a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24/5 - 250 cm 2) marketed by the ERICHSEN company. The composition was spread at a rate of 2 mg / cm 2 using a mechanical film gun. The composition was then dried overnight at a temperature of 37 ° C and the reflection was measured with a gonioreflectometer. The result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. The value of R is all the more low as the mattifying effect is important. Composition ABCR 0.52 + 1-0.05 0.79 + 1-0.03 1.24 +/- 0.1 These results, in vitro, show that a composition comprising the combination of the 3 compounds of the invention gives a dullness result much higher than that obtained with one of the comparative formulas containing only the combination of concave or annular particles consisting of an organosilicone material and a sebum absorbing particle having a sebum uptake or a sebum-absorbing particle having a sebum uptake and a polymer of oxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxane type, water-soluble or water-dispersible. 2.2. Evolution of the brightness by in vivo measurement in polarimetric camera

The dullness of the face was measured using a polarimetric camera, which is a polarimetric black-and-white imaging system, with which images in parallel polarized (P) and cross (C) light are acquired.

By image analysis resulting from the subtraction of the two images (P-C), the brightness is quantized by measuring the average gray level of the 5% of the brightest pixels corresponding to the areas of brightness.

The composition A according to Example 1 above was applied to the finger on 20 subjects (women) with oily or combination skin with a greasy tendency, in the face, at a rate of 300 mg per half-face. The subjects' faces were then observed using a LFC-804-SBWA-2-SAMBA polarimetric camera polarimetric camera with POLKA 3.07 acquisition software.

The brightness was analyzed at TO, Timetime, T1 hour, T2 hours, T4 hours after application, by grayscale image analysis.

TO: before application of composition A (= untreated) Timmediat: immediately after application of composition A T1 hour: 1 hour after application of composition A T2hours: 2 hours after application of composition A T4hours: 4 hours after application of composition A

Thus, a decrease in skin gloss immediately after application of composition A was demonstrated. A significant matifying effect was demonstrated immediately after application of composition A.

The results are expressed compared to the TO. A negative value means that the composition decreases the brightness of the skin and is therefore mattifying. 35

The percentages of gloss evolution are summarized below: Timmediate T1 hour T2hours T4hours Composition -25.4% -22.6% -22.3% -16.5% A It is thus demonstrated that the composition A according to the invention provides a decrease in the skin shine immediately after application, and this effect is durable over time.

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) concave or annular particles consisting of an organosilicone material; b) at least one sebum absorbing particle having a sebum intake; c) at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated non-ionic polydimethylsiloxane polymer. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the concave particles have an average diameter less than or equal to 10pm. 3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the concave particles are in the form of portions of hollow spheres having a cross section in the form of horseshoe or arch. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the organosilicon material is a crosslinked polysiloxane of three-dimensional structure comprising or consisting of units of formula (I): SiO2 and of formula (II): Wherein R 'denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly attached to the silicon atom. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that R 'is a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, or a phenyl group. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 5, characterized in that the organosilicon material comprises the units (I) and (II) in a molar ratio pattern (I) / pattern (II) ranging from 30/70 to 50/50, preferably from 35/65 to 45/55 .35 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said silicone concave or annular particles are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20%. by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the particle absorbing sebum is selected from silica, polyamide powders, acrylic polymer powders, elastomeric silicone powders, and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the particle absorbing sebum is an allyl polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the particle absorbing sebum is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight. % by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the polymer is a silicone selected from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II): R5 SiOO R5 u E R5 SiùR5 (I) 1 v R5 (R5Si) v-2 [(OSiR5) u / v0-P] v (II) with: - P = - (OC2H4) y- (OC3H6) z-OR7-R, = C1-C4 alkyl - R5 radicals , identical or different, denote a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, aryl and aralkyl groups containing not more than 10 carbon atoms and preferably chosen from lower (C 1 -C 4) alkyls such as methyl, ethyl, butyl or chosen among phenyl and benzyl and even more preferentially all refer to methyl; u is 0 to 59, preferably 10 to 50 and more preferably 12 to 25; - v is 1 to 12, preferably 4 to 10 and more preferably 5 to 8; E denotes a group -CXH2z (OC2H4) y- (OC3H6) Z-OR6 where: x is 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 4 and more preferably 3; - y> 0 and z 0; y and z are chosen so that the total molar mass of the radical E varies from 200 to 10,000 g / mol and more preferably from 350 to 3000; preferably, the number z is zero; - R6 is hydrogen; a C1-C8 alkyl radical, linear or branched, preferably C1-C4 as methyl; a C2-C8 acyl radical, preferably a C2-C4 acyl radical. 12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the polymer is a silicone of one of the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II) in which the radicals R5, which are identical or different, are chosen from lower alkyls in Cl-C4 such as methyl, ethyl, butyl. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the polymer is a silicone of one of the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II) in which the R5 radicals all denote methyl radicals. 14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxane type polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 10 15 20 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one oily skin care active agent chosen from desquamating, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, sebo-regulating and antioxidant agents. 16. Cosmetic skin care and / or makeup process, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 15. 10 17. The method of claim 16, characterized in that it is a method for matting the skin and / or reduce its gloss. 18. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, for the care of combination and / or oily skin. 15