FR2991168A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition used e.g. to improve and/or reinforce barrier function of skin and protection of skin against external aggressions, includes extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprises an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae. An independent claim is included for improving and/or reinforcing barrier function of skin and protection of skin against external aggressions, comprising applying the extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae on the skin.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of skincare and / or its annexes. The subject of the invention is a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method of the skin and / or its appendices, intended to improve the barrier function comprising at least one step of applying to the skin at least one composition as defined above. In particular, the composition of the invention is intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function of the skin. It thus finds use in hydrating the skin, in improving the suppleness of the skin, in improving and / or reducing the microrelief of the skin. The human skin consists of two compartments namely a deep compartment, the dermis and a superficial compartment, the epidermis. The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nurturing element. It consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance called the fundamental substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast. There are also leucocytes, mast cells or tissue macrophages. It also contains blood vessels and nerve fibers.

The epidermis is in contact with the external environment. The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells, which are the keratinocytes, a very large majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. The cells constituting the epidermis are delimited by an intercellular lipid domain. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin. In particular, the keratinocytes undergo a continuous and oriented maturation process which, keratinocytes found in the basal layer of the epidermis, results in the formation of corneocytes, which are completely keratinized dead cells consisting of end-stage keratinocytes. differentiation. During differentiation, the phospholipids whose role is to develop the fluid structure of the cell membranes of the living layers of the epidermis, are gradually replaced by a mixture composed mainly of fatty acids, cholesterol and sphingolipids (ceramides). These lipids, which are organized in specific lamellar liquid crystal phases, form the intracellular cement of the stratum corneum and are essential for water exchanges and the barrier function of the epidermis. Thus, the lamellar structure of lipids of the lipid domain of the epidermis and corneocytes participate in the epidermal barrier function. The skin thus constitutes a barrier against external aggressions, in particular chemical, mechanical or infectious, and as such a number of defense reactions against environmental factors (climate, ultraviolet rays, tobacco, etc.) and / or xenobiotics , such as micro-organisms, occur at its level.

This property, called barrier function, is mainly provided by the most superficial layer of the epidermis, namely the stratum corneum, called the stratum corneum. It is clear that the quality and balance of the skin barrier and mucous membranes is dependent on complex endogenous biological mechanisms involving many growth factors, adhesion molecules, hormones and lipid metabolism enzymes. Thus, an alteration of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external irritants (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, toxic gases or fumes), mechanical stresses (friction, shock, abrasion, tearing). surface, projection of dust, particles, shaving or waxing), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, UV radiation), xenobiotics (undesirable microorganisms, allergens) or internal stress-type stressors. People particularly concerned by this alteration of the barrier function by external aggression may be the following: people with "fragile" or "delicate" and vulnerable skin rapidly becoming unbalanced during changes in temperature or relative humidity large amplitude (for example, baby skins) people with "fragile" skin, including people whose protective hydro-lipidic film composed of sweat, sebum and natural hydration factors is becoming scarce, as is the case for people over the age of 60 years and especially in the context of old age (at least 75 years old); - People whose composition of hydro-lipid film is modified, as is the case of diabetics, or dialysis, or with certain diseases; people who have a lowered threshold of reactivity due to neurogenic hyperactivity; these skins will therefore present these sensations and clinical signs much more quickly and frequently than other types of skin: they are people with sensitive skin. We can also speak of people with skin "assaulted" for shaved skin for example. An alteration of the cutaneous barrier function can in particular result in a disturbance of hydration, a loss of suppleness of the skin, an alteration of the radiance of the complexion and the appearance of a roughness on the skin. It should then seek to increase epidermal differentiation to strengthen the barrier function of the skin. In particular, it is thus sought to improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function to: alleviate hydration problems of the skin and / or its annexes, especially mucous membranes, and in particular to treat dry skin, improve the flexibility of the skin. skin, maintain and / or improve the radiance of the complexion, - prevent and / or treat the roughness or micro-relief of the skin that can manifest itself by marks of chickenpox or acne. The patent application FR2900046 has described anti-aging compositions comprising a hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative, these compositions may also include, among multiple active agents, an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae as an agent acting on the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and thus the inhibition of collagen degradation, and an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca as an agent stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans. The inventors have now demonstrated that the combination of an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae allowed to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function of the skin.

The inventors have in particular demonstrated that the combination according to the invention has a synergistic effect on the activity of keratinocyte transglutaminase (TGK). This combination thus makes it possible to improve epidermal homeostasis. The combination according to the invention has the property of activating TGK, an essential factor in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes and its corneification. TGK is an enzyme belonging to the family of transpeptidases. It is a calcium-dependent enzyme that catalyzes the formation of c (γ-glutamyl) lysine isopeptide bridges between epidermal proteins and thus promotes the formation of horny envelopes.

The inventors have also shown that the combination according to the invention synergistically induces an increase in the expression of filaggrin protein (FLG). Filaggrin is a constituent protein of the horny envelope that surrounds corneocytes. Filaggrin aggregates keratin filaments into macrofibrils in the lower part of the stratum corneum. When it approaches the skin surface, filaggrin is mainly degraded into free amino acids, which form a major part of a very hygroscopic complex, the natural Moisturing Factor (NMF). NMF is important for maintaining the hydration of the stratum corneum and the suppleness of the skin. The invention thus relates, according to a first of its aspects, to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae. It also relates according to another of its aspects, the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention or an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae in a topical composition to improve and / or enhance the skin barrier function of the skin. It also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention or to an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae in a topical composition, to improve and / or or strengthen the protection of the skin vis-à-vis external aggressions. It furthermore relates, according to yet another of its aspects, the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention or of an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae in topical compositions for to improve the hydration of the skin and / or its appendages, to prevent and / or treat roughness or micro-relief and / or to improve the radiance of the complexion and / or to improve the suppleness of the skin and / or its annexes.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve and / or reinforce the barrier function and / or the hydration and / or the resistance to external aggressions of the skin and / or its annexes t and characterized in that an effective amount of an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae or a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or its annexes. The method according to the invention is particularly intended for persons with cutaneous dryness irrespective of the age and the skin type of the person and the origin of the drought. According to another embodiment, said composition may be intended to improve and / or reinforcing the barrier function of a skin chosen from fragile skin, weakened skin, aggressed skin and / or sensitive skin. In the context of the invention, the composition may be used for application on healthy skin, subject or may be subjected to external aggression as recalled above. In other particular cases, the composition of the invention may be applied to the skin when it shows clinical signs of skin barrier deficiency. Thus the subject of the invention is the use of an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae, for the preparation of a particularly dermatological composition intended to improve and / or reinforce the barrier function of the skin. Another aspect of the present invention is therefore the use of an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae, for the preparation of a particularly dermatological composition intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function damaged skin, in particular skin requiring repair and / or tissue regeneration. The invention finally relates to the combination of an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae for its use for improving and / or strengthening the barrier function of an injured skin, in particular of a skin requiring repair and / or tissue regeneration. The composition according to the invention may in particular be intended to improve cicatrization or to stimulate repair and / or tissue regeneration. Tissue repair may be necessary in all cases where the skin has lesions of any origin, in particular due to the damage caused by UV radiation or pollution-type external aggressions or stress.

By "skin and / or its annexes" is meant in particular the skin, the mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair. By "effective amount" is meant respective amounts of two actives that allow the manifestation of the desired synergistic effect.

Laminaria ochroleuca extract Laminaria ochroleuca is a species of laminar, yellow-brown, which is known to fight oxidative stress and cellular aging and in particular to promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (patent application EP1074262). The Laminaria ochroleuca extract may in particular be obtained by a process as described in application EP1074262, and which comprises, for example, the steps of: - harvesting fresh algae, for example on the northern coasts of Brittany, washing them, grinding them, advantageously to a size between 100 and 200 μm, removing cell debris by centrifugation, to obtain a first supernatant, fractionating the supernatant by acid precipitation, preferably hydrochloric acid, and by activated carbon adsorption, to obtain a second supernatant, - filtering the second supernatant (for example by means of a tangential filtration with a cutoff threshold of 1000 Daltons) until the filtrate has reached a glycine betaine concentration, measured by HPLC, of 12.5 ± 2.5%. Preferably the Laminaria ochroleuca extract is the Laminaïne Marine® BG / PF extract marketed by the company BiotechMarine (Pontrieux, France) (INCI name Water / Butylene Glycol / Laminaria ochroleuca Extract). This extract comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, 14 to 20% of active material, 35 to 51% of butylene glycol and 35 to 45% of water. The extract of Laminaria ochroleuca is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of 0.001 to 10%, preferably of 0.005 to 5%, and very preferably in a content of 0.01% to 3%. by weight of extract, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 0.00014 to 2%, preferably from 0.0007 to 1%, and most preferably from 0.0014 to 0. , 6% active ingredient extracted from Laminaria ochroleuca. Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract Aphanizomenon flos-aquae is a species of cyanobacteria found in Klamath Lake, Oregon (USA) and characterized by Renhui et al. (Hydrobiology, 438: 99-105, 2000, Taxonomic re-evaluation of Aphanizomenon-flos-aquae NH-5 based on morphology and 16S rRNA gene sequences). The Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract may in particular be obtained by a process as described in the patent application WO 2004/066969, and which comprises, for example, the following stages: at least one maceration at a temperature of 25 to 50 ° C, preferably about 35 ° C, dried blue algae of the species Aphanizomenon flos-aquae in the presence of enzymes such as cellulases, pectinases and glucanases, for a period of ten minutes at 10 hours stirring, preferably about four hours with stirring; a liquid / solid separation by centrifugation, preferably under an acceleration of 5,000 to 10,000 g, and more preferably of approximately 9,000 g; a liquid / liquid separation by a membrane filtration process; drying and / or dilution in a solution containing specific adjuvants, for example sorbitol; a possible specific separation of the various constituents thus extracted, for example by chromatography, the different substances obtained which can be used alone or as a mixture, depending on the desired effect.

The drying step may as well be a conventional drying (heat) that drying by nebulization or lyophilization. By this method, the substances having a major activity on the skin and the hair are extracted, namely carotenoids, phycocyanins, amino acids, in particular methionine, lysine, proline and serine, and polysaccharides.

The extract thus obtained is composed in particular of proteins (between 0.05 to 1% w / w (mass ratio)), vitamin B12 (between 0.003 to 0.05% w / w), Lysine (between 0.2 at 3% w / w), methionine (between 0.04 to 0.6% w / w), proline (between 0.15 to 2.5% w / w) and serine (between 0.15 to 2.5% w / w) The Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract may be dissolved in an aqueous solution such as a water / sorbitol mixture.

Preferably the Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract is Lanablue® extract available from Unipex Innovations Inc. (INCI name Sorbitol (and) Water (and) Algae extract). This extract contains 1% of active ingredient, by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

The Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 6% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 6% by weight. % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 0.00001 to 0.2%, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.06%, and preferably from 0.001% to 0%. , 05% of active ingredient extracted from Aphanizomenon flos-aquae. In the context of the present invention, the weight ratio of the Laminaria ochroleuca extract to the Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract in the composition is preferably from 0.1 to 10, and more particularly from 0.5 at 5.

Galenic The combination of at least one extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae according to the invention is formulated for administration preferably topically.

It is also clear that the effective amount of the active ingredient corresponds to the amount necessary to obtain the desired result, and that the formulation of the compositions according to the invention depends on the use for which these compositions are intended. In particular, two major categories of topical compositions according to the invention can be distinguished, depending on the conditions under which they will be applied to the skin. The first category corresponds to cosmetic compositions, that is to say intended to be applied to a healthy skin to improve the aesthetics and especially comfort. Healthy skin is defined as the absence of pathologies such as infections, inflammation, erythema, or wounds such as a burn or a cut. However, in this definition, healthy skin does not mean skin in perfect condition. In particular, healthy skin may show signs of dryness that may be of exogenous origin (the skin becomes dry, for example, when exposed to dry, very cold air), or of endogenous physiological origin (eg example, at the time of the hormonal fall related to menopause).

The cosmetic composition is thus formulated to be applied to the skin and / or its appendages and comprises an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae, said composition making it possible to improve the barrier function.

According to the invention, the combination of an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae can also be used for the preparation of a therapeutic composition more specifically dermatological, intended to improve the condition of an injured skin, skin type requiring tissue repair and / or regeneration in the dermis, epidermis and dermal-epidermal junction.

The lesion considered may be of any origin, for example infectious, allergic, nervous or traumatic. A therapeutic composition can be applied directly to the injured area or in its vicinity. Thus, the invention also relates to the use of the combination of an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae for the preparation of a topical composition formulated for a therapeutic use, for example on an injured skin such as a skin requiring tissue repair in the dermis, the epidermis and the dermal-epidermal junction. The composition will then be formulated with a pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH close to that of the skin, between 4 and 7. The composition according to the invention is advantageously intended for topical application (composition for topical use). When applied topically, the composition according to the invention can be applied to the face, neck, scalp, mucous membranes and nails or any other cutaneous area of the body including hands and feet. "Acceptable physiological medium" means a medium that is compatible with the skin and / or its appendages or the materials and / or the keratinous fibers of human beings, such as, for example, without limitation, the skin, the mucous membranes, nails, scalp and / or hair. Such a medium does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user. This physiologically acceptable medium comprises water, optionally mixed or not with one or more organic solvents such as C 1 -C 5 alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, polyols such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyol ethers.

The compositions according to the invention are especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the lotion or serum type, anhydrous or oily gels, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion. a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), multiple emulsions (triple: W / H / E or H / E / H), suspensions or consistency emulsions soft, semi-solid or solid type cream, gel, especially aqueous, microemulsions, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), or thin films, or micro -capsules, micro-particles. It is also possible to use a composition according to the invention in the form of a water and oil biphase. The amounts of the various constituents of the compositions used according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a transparent gel. In particular, this transparent gel is characterized by the fact that it is obtained by combining the active agents with a homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group. More particularly, said gel contains from 0 to 1% of oil. The polymers comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group, used in this type of transparent gel, are advantageously water-soluble or water-dispersible or swellable in water. The polymers used for this type of transparent gel are homopolymers that can be obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer and with a sulfonic group, which can be in free form or partially or completely neutralized. Preferably, the polymers used for this type of transparent gel may be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized. The term "neutralized" in the present invention means polymers that are totally or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%. These polymers generally have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol. These polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. The monomers containing a sulfonic group of the polymer used in these transparent gels are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids and N- (C 1 -C 22) alkyl acids. (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulfonic acid such as undecyl-acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers containing a sulphonic group are chosen from (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido acid and ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and as their partially or totally neutralized forms, and their mixtures. More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms are used. As other polymers suitable for this type of gel, mention may be made in particular of the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, marketed by the company Clariant under the trademark "Hostacerin® AMPS" (name CTFA: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, INCI name: Ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate The monomer homopolymer containing a sulfonic group may be present in a transparent gel in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight, for example from 0.1 to 0.4%, especially 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

When the composition used according to the invention, whatever its nature, comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, auric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil® EM 90 by Goldschmidt.

It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu. Other types of KSG marketed by Shin Etsu can also be used, such as KSG-16. For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate. In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles. As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides pigments, silica powder, a colloidal amorphous silica; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned in particular carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, Sepigel-type acrylamide gelling agents such as Sepigel 305® from Seppic, xanthan gums, guar gums and cellulose gums, alginates and mixtures thereof. We can also mention hectorites. Antioxidants that may be mentioned include polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives. derivatives, Pycnogenol, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, biotin, chelants, idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital, antiradicals such as vitamin E, co enzyme 010, bioflavonoids , SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sunscreen) which may be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters. By way of illustration and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters): anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone); or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron, zirconium, cerium coated or uncoated. The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive cosmetic or dermatological carriers intended to be applied in a localized manner to the skin. The support can be an "occlusive" support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes. , or a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil. The support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is from about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort. Preferably, however, the carrier is "non-occlusive". In the latter case, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric or a perforated nonwoven fabric. According to another embodiment of the invention, said compositions according to the invention may be combined with orally administered compositions containing additional cosmetic active agents which have a beneficial effect on the appearance of the skin, such as, for example, active ingredients. additives to combat the signs of skin aging or additional active ingredients to fight against oily skin. Additional active ingredients The composition according to the invention may further contain other active agents, and in particular at least one compound chosen from: moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; anti-aging / anti-wrinkle agents (anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants); agents having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier function; agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope; agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation; agents stimulating cellular energy metabolism of cells; tensors; antioxidants; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents, desquamating agents, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

By "moisturizing agent" is meant: - either a compound acting on the barrier function, in order to maintain the hydration of the stratum corneum, or an occlusive compound. There may be mentioned ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, R-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petrolatum and lanolin; or a compound directly increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, such as thralose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, lactate sodium, glycerol polyacrylate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan, oligo- and polysaccharides, cyclic carbonates, N-lauroyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and Na-benzoyl-L-arginine; or an activating compound for the sebaceous glands such as DHEA, its 7-oxidized and / or 17-alkyl derivatives, sapogenins and vitamin D and its derivatives.

The "depigmenting agents" that may be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention comprise, for example, the following compounds: kojic acid; ellagic acid; arbutin and its derivatives such as those described in EP-895,779 and EP-524,109; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives such as those described in applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, and in particular N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol; iminophenol derivatives, in particular those described in application WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, as well as its salts and esters; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, especially ascorbyl glucoside; and plant extracts, in particular licorice, mulberry and skullcap, without this list being limiting. By "anti-glycation agent" is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins such as collagen. Examples of anti-glycation agents are plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as a bilberry extract (Vaccinium angustifolium); ergothioneine and its derivatives; and hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'tetrahydroxystilbene. Examples of "NO synthase inhibitors" that are suitable for use in the present invention include, in particular, a plant extract of the Vitis vinifera species which is marketed in particular by Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect®, or finally by the company Hansen under the name Grape marc extract; a plant extract of the species Olea europaea which is preferably obtained from olive leaves and is especially marketed by VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT ; and an extract of a plant of the Gingko biloba species which is preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract. Among the "agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation", mention may be made of those which act: either on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica; asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®; and plant hormones such as auxins and lignans. or on the synthesis of elastin, such as the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie®; or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth®; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by ALBAN MÜLLER under the trade name HSP3®; and the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the Saline zooplankton extract marketed by Seporga under the trade name GP4G®; yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MÜLLER under the trademark Drieline®; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil®; or on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMPs) such as, more particularly, MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9. Mention may be made of: retinoids and derivatives, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, malt extract marketed by the company COLETICA under the trade name Collalift®; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of soya (marketed for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB®), red clover, flax, kakkon or sage; or on the inhibition of serine proteases such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G. Mention may be made of: the peptide extract of leguminous seeds (Pisum sativum) marketed by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl®; heparinoids; and pseudodipeptides such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid.

Among the "active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules", such as filaggrin and keratins, mention may in particular be made of the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trademark Structurine®; the extract of Fagus sylvatica beech buds marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline®; and the extract of zooplankton Satina marketed by SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G®. The "fibroblast proliferation stimulating agents" that can be used in the composition according to the invention may, for example, be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH). -VEG 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins. "Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes", usable in the composition according to the invention, include retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate; phloroglucinol; nut cake extracts sold by the company GATTEFOSSE; and extracts of Solanum tuberosum marketed by SEDERMA. "Agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes" include, for example, minerals such as calcium; the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trademark Photopréventine®; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate marketed by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohesine®; and the corn extract marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol. The composition according to the invention may comprise "dermo-decontracting agents", among which mention may in particular be made of alverine and its salts, in particular alverine citrate, sapogenins such as diosgenin and the natural extracts containing them ( such as extracts of Wild Yam), certain secondary and tertiary carbonyl amines, organic or inorganic metal salts, in particular manganese gluconate, adenosine, and the hexapeptide argireline R marketed by LIPOTEC. There may also be mentioned certain perfume compositions with a dermo-decontracting effect. As "agent having a restructuring effect of the skin barrier", there may be mentioned an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma Venuiteane®, an extract of wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y®. Active Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma's omega plancton®, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium®, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverine®, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen Gattefossé ®, Degussa Phytosphingosine SLC, Seppic Aquaxyl ®, Coletica Lipidessence ®. There may also be mentioned ceramides and derivatives, compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromon derivatives, the vaseline, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, etc. As preferred additional agents that promote the cutaneous barrier function, mention may be made of an extract of Thermus thermophilus, an extract of wild yam rhizome (dioscorea villosa), yeast extract, chestnut extract, cedar bud extract and mixtures thereof. As "agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope", it will be possible to use, in the compositions of the invention, agents which mediate the maturation of the horny envelope, which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in of transglutaminase activity. There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance® from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220. As "agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation", it is possible to combine in the compositions of the invention agents acting on the cutaneous microcirculation in order to avoid dulling of the complexion and / or the formation of the pockets, for example an extract of black tea such as Sederma Kombuchka, Pycnogenol, Manganese Gluconate (Givobio GMn Seppic), Indena Visnadine, Lupine Extract (Silab Eclaline), Epine 100 Laboratories Cadene, an extract from bigarade flower (ilab remodulin), vitamin P and its derivatives such as Permethol Sochibios and other extracts (ruscus, chestnut, ivy, ginseng, sweetclover ...) and also caffeine, escin hesperitin laurate, dextran sulphate, nicotinate and derivatives, lysine and derivatives (such as Asparlyne of Solabia). As preferred additional agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation, mention may be made of Kombuchka, manganese gluconate and vitamin P and its derivatives.

By "agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells", it is also possible to associate active agents stimulating the energetic metabolism which is slowed down during aging, among which mention may be made of biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisaie such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3® from Seppic.

By "tensing agent" is meant a compound capable of exerting traction on the skin. As "antioxidant" agents, there may be mentioned in particular tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; BHT and Tinoguard TT.

There may also be mentioned polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives, Pycnogenol , ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, biotin, chelants, idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital, antiradicals such as vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione. By the term "anti-pollution agent" is meant any compound capable of trapping ozone, mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzopyrene and / or heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium and / or nickel. By "anti-radical agent" is meant any compound capable of trapping free radicals. As "ozone trapping agents" that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it; olive leaf extracts; tea extracts, especially green tea; anthocyanins; rosemary extracts; phenolic acids, in particular chorogenic acid; stilbenes, in particular resveratrol; sulfur-containing amino acid derivatives, in particular 5-carboxymethylcysteine; ergothioneine; N-acetylcysteine; chelating agents such as N, N'-bis- (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; carotenoids such as crocetin; and various raw materials such as the mixture of arginine, histidine ribonucleate, mannitol, adenosinetriphosphate, pyridoxine, phenylalanine, tyrosine and hydrolysed RNA marketed by Serobiological Laboratories under the trade name CPP LS 2633-12F®, the water soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®, the mixture of fumitory extract and lemon extract marketed under the name Unicotrozon C-49® by the company Induchem, and the mixture of extracts of ginseng, apple , peach, wheat and barley sold by the company PROVITAL under the trade name Pronalen Bioprotect®.

As "scavengers of mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds" usable in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of tannins such as ellagic acid; indole derivatives, in particular indol-3-carbinol; tea extracts especially green tea, extracts of water hyacinth or eichornia crassipes; and the water-soluble corn fraction marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®. Finally, as "heavy metal scavengers" usable in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of chelating agents such as EDTA, pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid, and N, N'-bis. - (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; phytic acid; chitosan derivatives; tea extracts, especially green tea; tannins such as ellagic acid; sulfur-containing amino acids such as cysteine; water hyacinth (Eichornia crassipes) extracts; and the water-soluble corn fraction marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®. The "anti-radical agents" that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, in addition to certain anti-pollution agents mentioned above, vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme 010 or ubiquinone; certain enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases; glutathione; benzylidene camphor; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates; phytantriol; gamma-oryzanol; lignans; and melatonin. By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on the desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as the R-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (of which the acid n- 5-salicylic octanoyl); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol; or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of the chelating agents for mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N', ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular N- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-N'2-ethanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I), in which: R 1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an -OH group, and a halogen, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R3 is chosen from a methyl group or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R4 and R5 are independently of one another chosen from an atom of hydrogen, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an -OH or a halogen group, or any of the hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivatives as described in the patent application FR2900046. The following examples illustrate the present invention.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Effect on Transglutaminase Protein Marker Expression in a Monolayer Cell Culture Model The in vitro effect of two actives, Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract (Lanablue® available from Unipex Innovations Inc. and Laminaria ochroleuca extract (Laminaïne Marine® BG / PF marketed by BiotechMarine), and their association on the expression of a protein marker involved in epidermal differentiation transglutaminase (TGK).

For this, human keratinocytes NHEKs were cultured for 72 hours with the test compounds, their combination and the reference element, and the expression of the epidermal marker TGK was quantified.

Procedure The cells (human keratinocytes NHEKs) were inoculated and cultured in a humid atmosphere at 37 ° C. containing 5% of 002. The culture medium (SFM, medium without serum) supplemented with EGF / BPE / Gentamycin) was replaced by test medium (SFM supplemented with gentamycin) containing or not (untreated control) test compounds or reference. The cells were then incubated for 72 hours for TGK marker analysis. The expression of the TGK protein marker was measured by immunostaining in situ and then image analysis. For this, after the incubation of the cells in the test medium, the culture medium was removed and the cells rinsed, fixed and sealed. They were then labeled with primary anti-TGK antibodies (TEBU 0175003). After incubation and washings, the anti-TGK antibodies bound to the cells were revealed by a secondary antibody (anti-mouse IgG antibody, FISHER A11001) coupled to a fluorochrome. In parallel, the nuclei of the cells were stained.

The acquisition of the images was performed with a high resolution imaging system. The labels were quantified by measuring the fluorescence intensity of the proteins relative to the number of nuclei identified by the coloration.

Results after 72 hours of treatment Treatment Expression compared to untreated control (%) Reference Ca012 1.5 mM 742 Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract (Lanablue®) 2% * 76 Laminaria ochroleuca extract (Laminaïne Marine®) 2 ° / O * 278 Association Lanablue® 2% / Laminaïne Marine® 2% * 804 * The contents indicated indicate the final content of the extract in the culture medium.

Under the experimental conditions of this study, the 2% Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract had no effect on the expression of the TGK protein marker compared to the untreated control (-24% relative to untreated control). The 2% Laminaria ochroleuca extract induced a slight increase in the expression of the TGK protein marker compared to the untreated control (+ 178% compared to the untreated control). Surprisingly and remarkably, the combination of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract with Laminaria ochroleuca extract induced a net increase in the expression of the TGK protein marker, comparable to that of the positive reference and much more important that the active agents tested alone compared to the untreated control (+ 704% respectively versus + 178% which represents a potentiation of about 4 times [704/178 = 3.95]). The combination of the two active ingredients, Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract and Laminaria ochroleuca extract, in comparison with the active ones alone, has a synergistic effect on increasing the expression of the transglutaminase TGK protein marker involved in epidermal differentiation. On the basis of the results obtained, this combination of active ingredients thus makes it possible to stimulate epidermal differentiation and thus to improve the barrier function and the hydration of the skin.

EXAMPLE 2 Effects on the Expression of the Filaggrin Marker in a Cell Culture Model We evaluated the in vitro effect of two active ingredients, Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract (Lanablue® available from Unipex Innovations Inc.) and the extract of Laminaria ochroleuca (Laminaïne Marine® BG / PF marketed by BiotechMarine), and their association on the expression of a marker involved in epidermal differentiation, Filaggrine (FLG). For this, we cultured human keratinocytes NHEKs in their culture medium and seeded them 24 hours before treating them systemically in Epilife medium with the test compounds, their combination or the reference compound (TGF [31], and analyzed the expression of target mRNA markers encoding the FLG protein using the quantitative RT-PCR technique.

Procedure The cells (human keratinocytes NHEKs) were cultured and maintained in a humid atmosphere at 37 ° C containing 5% CO2 at 37 ° C and 5% 002.

Keratinocytes (NHEKs) were inoculated at 100,000 cells / ml in Epilife medium containing HKGS (Invitrogen: M-EPI-500A, S-001-5, respectively) in 24-well plates (for the cytotoxicity study). ) or in T25 (for the gene expression study). 24h after seeding, the extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae, the Laminaria ochroleuca extract, their association or the reference element transforming growth factor-betal (TGF-131) was applied for 24 hours on keratinocytes ( NHEKs) by adding an Epilife medium free of HKGS supplemented with the compounds or their combination to be tested. After 24 hours of incubation, the total RNAs were extracted using an extraction kit (RNAeasy mini kit (Qiagen)), and a reverse transcription reaction of the mRNA, then a quantitative PCR were performed (TaqMan Gene Expression Assay, Applied Biosystems). The Applied Biosystems kit (hs-00856927-g1) used in this study allows the amplification of specific Filaggrin fragments (FLG).

Results Treatment Expression versus untreated control (%) TGF-131 10 ng / ml 75 Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract (Lanablue®) 0.1% * 117 Laminaria ochroleuca extract (Laminaïne Marine® 97 BG / PF ) 0.02% * Combination of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae 166 extract (Lanablue®) 0.1% * and Laminaria ochroleuca extract (Laminaïne Marine® BG / PF) 0.02% the percentages are expressed as extract volume relative to the total volume of the culture medium.

Under the experimental conditions of this study, Aphanizomenon flosaquae extract applied at 0.1%, after 24h incubation, induced a slight increase in the expression of the gene encoding the filaggrin FLG marker compared to the untreated control (+ 17% compared to the untreated control).

Likewise, after 24 hours of incubation, the Laminaria ochroleuca extract has little or no effect on the expression of the gene encoding the filaggrin FLG marker compared to the untreated control (-3% compared to the control untreated). Surprisingly and remarkably, the combination of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract, a weak inducer of the expression gene coding for the filaggrin marker, with the extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, which has no effect on the expression of the gene coding for the filaggrin marker FLG induces a net increase in the expression of the gene coding for FLG and greater than that induced by the active agents tested alone compared to the untreated control (+66% respectively versus +17 % which represents a potentiation of approximately 4 times the expression of this gene [66/17 = 3.88]), after 24h of incubation. The combination of the two active ingredients, Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract and Laminaria ochroleuca extract, therefore makes it possible to potentiate the increase in the expression of the gene coding for the filaggrin protein (FLG), in comparison with the active agents alone. On the basis of the results obtained, this synergistic association of active ingredients thus makes it possible to improve the barrier function and the hydration of the skin.

EXAMPLE 3 Composition of a Hydrating Serum (Fluid Emulsion O / W) Phase Trade Name INCI Name Concentration A Water Qsp 100 A Disolvine Na2 (AKZO) Disodium EDTA 0.15 A Nikkol Lecinol S10 (Nikko) Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.5 A Sepicide LD (seppic) Phenoxyethanol 0.7A Dow Corning 2501 Cosmetic Wax (Dow Corning) BIS-PEG-18 Methyl ether dimethyl silane 3 A Glycerin 4810 (Oleon) Glycerin 7 A Glucam E-20 Humectant (Lubrizol) Methyl Gluceth-20 2 A Marine Laminate BG / PF (Biotechmarine) Laminaria ochroleuca extract 0.5 A Lanablue® (Unipex Innovations) Extract 5 Aphanizomenon flos aquae B Synthalen K (3V) Carbomer 0.3 B Hostacerin® AMPS (Clariant) Ammonium 0, 2 polyacryloyldimethyl taurate C Cristalhyal (Soliance) 0.1 D Sodium Hyaluronate Sodium Hydroxide (Chlorenchima) Sodium Hydroxide 0.09 E Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid Dimethicone 5 5CS (Dow Corning) F Alcohol Ethyl Surfin 99.9 Alcohol 5 Denature (France) Alcohols) Procedure: - Heat all the c the constituents of phase A at 75 ° C. with stirring, -dispersing with stirring the gels of phase B until a homogeneous preparation is obtained, -cooling at 40 ° C. and adding, with stirring, phase C, -A 40 ° C introduce phase D previously dissolved in a little distilled water, stir until a smooth and homogeneous gelation is obtained, - Cool to 25 ° C / 30 ° C is introduced with stirring phases E and F, and -Froze the mixture at 25 ° C.

Claims (11)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae. 2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the Laminaria ochroleuca extract is present in the composition in a content of 0.001 to 10% by weight of extract, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the Laminaria ochroleuca extract is present in the composition at a content of 0.005 to 5% by weight of extract, relative to the total weight of the composition. 15 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae is present in the composition in a content of 0.001% to 20% by weight of extract, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract is present in the composition in a content of from 0.01% to 6% by weight of extract, relative to to the total weight of the composition. 6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the weight ratio of Laminaria ochroleuca extract to Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract is from 0.1 to 10. 7. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 6, for improving and / or reinforcing the barrier function of the skin. 30 8. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, for improving and / or reinforcing the protection of the skin vis-à-vis external aggressions. 9. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, for improving the hydration of the skin and / or its annexes. 10. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, for preventing and / or treating the roughness or micro-relief of the skin and / or its appendages and / or for improving the appearance of the skin. radiance of the complexion and / or to improve the suppleness of the skin and / or its annexes. 11. Cosmetic treatment process for improving and / or reinforcing the barrier function and / or hydration and / or resistance to external aggressions of the skin and / or its appendages and characterized in that an effective amount is applied. an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae, or a composition containing an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca and an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae, on the skin and / or its appendages.