FR2834635A1 - USE OF METHYL GLYCINEDIACETIC ACID OR ITS DERIVATIVES AS DESQUAMANT - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one compound corresponding to the following formula (I): in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or to stimulate epidermal renewal. The compound of formula (I) above can thus be used for cosmetic purposes, to prevent or treat dry skin and / or cutaneous signs of aging and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or oily skin with a tendency to acne. Alternatively, it may be used as a medicament, particularly for preparing a composition for preventing or treating hyperkeratotic skin disorders.

Description

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The invention relates to the cosmetic use of methyldiacetic acid or its derivatives, as agents for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or stimulating epidermal renewal.

It relates in particular to the use of these compounds for cosmetic purposes, to prevent or treat dry skin and / or cutaneous signs of aging and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or oily acne-prone skin, as well as their use as a medicament, particularly in the treatment of hyperkeratosis.

Flaking is a natural phenomenon due to the fact that the epidermis, which constitutes the upper layer of the skin, is in constant regeneration.

The human epidermis consists of several layers of cells in which there are mainly four types of cells: the keratinocytes, very predominant, melanocytes, Langerhans cells and Merkel cells. The distribution of these cells in several superimposed layers explains the stratified nature of the epidermis.

The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes which constitutes the germinal layer of the epidermis, a so-called spinous layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal cells, a so-called granular layer consisting of flattened cells containing inclusions. cytoplasmic keratohyalin grains; and finally, an upper layer called the stratum corneum, which consists of end-stage keratinocytes called corneocytes. Corneocytes are mummified, anucleate cells that derive from keratinocytes and are eliminated by desquamation. This loss of surface is compensated by the migration of cells from the basal layer to the surface of the epidermis. It is the perpetual renewal of the epidermis. Forced elimination of the stratum corneum accelerates the renewal and helps fight against skin aging.

Corneocytes are mainly composed of a fibrous matrix containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a very strong structure of 15 nm thick, called horny or cornified envelope. The stacking of these corneocytes constitutes the stratum corneum which is responsible for the barrier function of the epidermis. During the normal process

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 of desquamation, the most superficial corneocytes are detached from the surface of the epidermis.

Intercellular structures derived from desmosomes, called corneosomes or corneodesmosomes, have been described in the stratum corneum. Recent studies have shown their major importance in intercorneocyte cohesion as well as in the desquamation process.

The corneodesmosine, also characterized in the application EP-A-0 972 042 of the Applicant, is a protein of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, involved in intercorneocyte cohesion and constitutive corneodesmosomes.

In the stratum corneum there is a close correlation between cellular dissociation and proteolysis of certain corneodesmosomal components such as desmoglein 1 and corneodesmosin. Several serine proteases of the trypsin or chymotrypsin type appear to be involved in the proteolysis of corneodesmosomes, such as in particular Chymotrypsin-like or Trypsin-like proteases (Lundstrom A., Egelrud T., The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 1988, 91). 340-343 and 1990.84: 216-220).

Various agents are known in the prior art for combating cutaneous aging, particularly by promoting desquamation, that is to say the elimination of dead cells located on the surface of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. This "desquamating" property is also called, often erroneously, keratolytic property.

Thus, US Pat. No. 4,623,146 describes the use of retinoic acid and its derivatives in cosmetic compositions, with a view to combating cutaneous aging.

Furthermore, numerous patents and publications (see, for example, EP-A-413,528) as well as numerous commercial cosmetic compositions teach the use of α-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid or the like. citric acid to treat skin aging.

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Finally, β-hydroxy acids and more particularly salicylic acid and its derivatives are known for their desquamating properties (see WO-A-93/10756 and US 4,767,750).

Nevertheless, the desire to maintain a young appearance always leads to the unceasing search for new compounds and / or new compositions to maintain or improve the appearance of the skin.

Certain cosmetic active agents are capable of stimulating the degradation of the proteins of the corneodesmosome and hence the desquamation, undoubtedly, as we have seen previously, by promoting the activity of the proteases involved in this process.

In this connection, it has been described in patent application EP-A2-0 852 949 (Shiseido) that glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives promote the degradation of desmoglein (corneodesmosome protein).

However, the Applicant has discovered that sodium methyl glycinediacetate was capable of degrading corneodesmosines and therefore found various applications in cosmetics and dermatology.

Until now, to the knowledge of the Applicant, this compound is in particular marketed as a metal chelating agent intended to be introduced into detergent compositions (detergents), as well as into cosmetic products in order to avoid phenomena. rancidity, color change and precipitation due to heavy metals. He also finds applications in the paper industry, for bleaching paper, and water treatment, to soften it.

However, it has never been described in the prior art that sodium methyl glycinediacetate may promote desquamation and / or stimulate epidermal renewal, in particular by degrading corneodesmosines, and consequently find applications in the treatment of cutaneous signs. skin aging, dry skin, hyperpigmentation, oily acne-prone skin and all the skin disorders caused by hyperkeratosis.

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dans laquelle : Ri, R2, R3 représentent, indépendamment les uns des autres, un atome d'hydrogène ; un groupe alkyle comprenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, éventuellement substitué par un radical -COOR4 où R4 est un groupe alkyle comprenant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, un groupe amino, un groupe hydroxy, un groupe alcoxy et/ou un groupe alkylamino ; ou un reste de sucre, ou d'un sel d'un tel composé lorsque R1 et/ou R2 et/ou R3 contiennent une fonction acide carboxylique, dans une composition cosmétique comprenant un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, en tant qu'agent destiné à favoriser la desquamation de la peau et/ou à stimuler le renouvellement épidermique. The subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of at least one compound corresponding to the following formula (1):

wherein: R 1, R 2, R 3 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a radical -COOR4 where R4 is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an amino group, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxy group and / or a group alkylamino; or a sugar residue, or a salt of such a compound when R1 and / or R2 and / or R3 contain a carboxylic acid function, in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or to stimulate epidermal renewal.

The compound of formula (I) above can thus be used for cosmetic purposes, in a cosmetic composition, as an agent for preventing or treating dry skin and / or cutaneous signs of aging and / or pigmentation of skin. skin and / or oily skin with an acne tendency. The invention therefore also relates to these cosmetic uses of the compound of formula (1).

It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method of dry skin and / or cutaneous signs of aging and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or oily skin acne prone, including topical application to the skin of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the compound of formula (1) described above.

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 Alternatively, the compound of formula (I) may be used as a medicament, particularly for preparing a composition for preventing or treating hyperkeratotic skin disorders, such as parapsoriasis, psoriasis, ichthyosis and lichen.

In the formula (I) above, there may be mentioned as examples of alkyl groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl and hexyl.

Les composés préférés pour une utilisation dans la présente invention sont ceux pour lesquels R, = R2 = R3 = H et leurs sels, en particulier inorganiques. Le composé particulièrement préféré est le méthyl glycinediacétate de sodium, qui est le sel trisodique du composé de formule (I) répondant à la définition précitée. Un tel composé est notamment disponible auprès de la société BASF sous la dénomination commerciale TRILON M#. In addition, "sugar residue" or sugar residue means the fraction of the sugar molecule to which is bonded, by a covalent bond, a hydroxyl function when the sugar is in free form. Thus, in the formula (1) above, an ester-type bond is obtained with the sugar. The latter may especially be chosen from: glucose, galactose, xylose, fucose, mannose or even polysaccharides. The type-COO-bond [sugar residue] will, for example in the case of glucose:

The preferred compounds for use in the present invention are those for which R 1 = R 2 = R 3 = H and their salts, in particular inorganic salts. The particularly preferred compound is sodium methyl glycinediacetate, which is the trisodium salt of the compound of formula (I) as defined above. Such a compound is especially available from BASF under the trade name TRILON M #.

The compound of formula (1) will be present in the composition containing it in an amount effective to obtain the desired effect. By way of example, the composition will contain from 0.01 to 40% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1 to 10% by weight of compound of formula (1), relative to the total weight of the composition.

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The composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, of a foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol or patch. It can also be in solid form, in particular in the form of a stick for the lips. It can be used as a care product and / or as a makeup product for the skin or lips.

In a known manner, the composition according to the invention may also contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase. In any case, these adjuvants, as well as their proportions, will be chosen so as not to harm the desired properties of the compound according to the invention.

When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms and the liquid fraction of shea butter; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or no,

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 containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of O / W emulsifiers such as fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, in particular PEG-100 stearate, and fatty acid esters of glycerine such as glyceryl stearate, as well as W / O emulsifiers such as the oxyethylenated poly (methylcetyl) (dimethyl) methylsiloxane available under the trade name ABIL WE09 from Degussa Goldschmidt.

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As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkylacrylates, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, it is possible to mention mention modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride sold by National Starch under the name DRY FLO PLUS (28-1160); polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or the preparation according to the invention.

UVA and / or UVB filters chosen from organic screening agents and mineral filters optionally coated to make them hydrophobic may also be introduced into the composition according to the invention.

As active agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: depigmenting or propigmenting agents; anti-glycation agents; the inhibitors of
NO synthase; 5α-reductase inhibitors; inhibitors of lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants; antimicrobial agents; tensors; antipollution and / or anti-radical agents; anti-inflammatory agents; lipolytic actives or having

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 a favorable activity, direct or indirect, on the reduction of adipose tissue; agents acting on microcirculation; agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells; and their mixtures.

 1. Moisturizing agents By "moisturizing agent" is meant: - either a compound acting on the barrier function, with a view to maintaining hydration of the stratum corneum, or an occlusive compound. There may be mentioned ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, 3-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petrolatum and lanolin; or a compound directly increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, such as thralose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, lactate sodium, glycerol polyacrylate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan, oligo- and polysaccharides, cyclic carbonates, N-lauroyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and Na-benzoyl-L-arginine; or a compound that activates the sebaceous glands, such as steroid derivatives (including DHEA) and vitamin D and its derivatives.

These compounds may represent from 0.001% to 30%, and preferably from 0.01% to 20%, of the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the present invention comprising the moisturizing agents mentioned above is advantageously intended for preventing or treating drying of the skin, and in particular xeroses.

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 2. Depigmenting or Proligating Agent The depigmenting agents that may be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention comprise, for example, the following compounds: kojic acid; ellagic acid; arbutin and its derivatives such as those described in EP-895,779 and EP-524,109; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives such as those described in applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, and in particular N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-paraaminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol; iminophenol derivatives, in particular those described in application WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, as well as its salts and esters; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, especially ascorbyl glucoside; and plant extracts, in particular licorice, mulberry and skullcap, without this list being limiting.

As a pro-pigmenting agent, mention may be made of burnet extract (Sanguisorba officinalis) marketed by the company MARUZEN and extracts of chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium).

The composition according to the present invention comprising the depigmenting agents mentioned above is advantageously intended for the prevention or treatment of hyperpigmentations, in particular age-related pigment spots.

For its part, the composition containing the pro-pigmenting agents mentioned above is preferably intended for the treatment of canities.

 3. Anti-glycation agent By "anti-glycation agent" is meant a compound that prevents and / or reduces the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins such as collagen.

Examples of anti-glycation agents are plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as a bilberry extract (Vaccinium angusfifollium); ergothioneine and its derivatives; and hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene.

These anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 99/16166, FR 00/08158, FR

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 99/09267 and FR 99/16168, respectively. Resveratrol is particularly preferred for use in this invention.

The composition according to the invention comprising an anti-glycation agent as defined above may advantageously be used to prevent or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular to prevent or treat the loss of tonicity and / or elasticity of the skin. skin.

 4. NO-SYNTHETIC INHIBITOR Examples of NO-synthase inhibitors suitable for use in the present invention include in particular a plant extract of the Vitis vinifera species which is sold in particular by Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines of Grapes. extra, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect, or finally by Hansen under the name Extract of marc de raisin; a plant extract of the species Olea europaea which is preferably obtained from olive leaves and is especially marketed by VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT ; and an extract of a plant of the Gingko biloba species which is preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract.

The composition according to the invention comprising a NO-synthase inhibitor as defined above may advantageously be used to prevent or treat the signs of skin aging and / or sensitive skin.

 5. 5α-Reductase Inhibitor When the composition according to the invention comprises a 5α-reductase inhibitor, it may especially be chosen from: retinoids, and in particular retinol; sulfur and sulfur derivatives; zinc salts such as lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate and / or zinc cysteate; - selenium chloride;

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 vitamin B6 or pyridoxine; the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5 #; an extract of Laminaria saccharina marketed in particular by SECMA under the trade name Phlorogine; an extract of Spiraea ulmaria marketed in particular by the company SILAB under the trade name Sebonormine; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; an extract from Serenoa repens marketed in particular by the company EUROMED; extracts of plants of the genus Silybum; plant extracts containing sapogenins and in particular extracts of dioscorea rich in diosgenin or hecogenin; and Eugenia caryophyllata extracts containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside.

The 5α-reductase inhibitor represents, for example, from 0.001% to 10%, and preferably from 0.01% to 5%, of the total weight of the composition according to the invention. When it contains such a compound, it is particularly well suited to prevent or treat seborrhea and / or hirsutism and / or alopecia androgen-dependent.

6. Lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitor
Preferred examples of inhibitors of lysyl and / or propyl hydroxylase that can be used in the composition according to the present invention are 2,4-diamino-pyrimidine 3-oxide or 2,4-DPO described in the patent application WO 96/09048 and 2,4-diamino-6-piperidino pyrimidine-3-oxide or "Minoxidil" described in US-4,139,619 and US-4,596,812.

These compounds are for example present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight and, more preferably, in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

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 The composition containing the lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitor and the DHEA derivative according to the invention is advantageously used for the prevention or treatment of alopecia.

 7. Agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation Among the active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis, mention may be made of those which act: either on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica; asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine #; and plant hormones such as auxins.

or on the synthesis of elastin, such as the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie; or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; and the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as Salina zooplankton extract marketed by Seporga under the trade name GP4G;

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 yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MÜLLER under the trademark Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil; - Or on the inhibition metalloproteinases (MMP) such as more particularly MMP 1,2,3,9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, isoflavonoids, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift #; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of soya (marketed for example by the company Ichimaru Phacos under the trade name Flavosterone SB #), red clover, flax, kakkon or sage; or on the inhibition of serine proteases such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G. Mention may be made of: the peptide extract of leguminous seeds (Pisum sativum) sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl #; heparinoids; and pseudodipeptides.

Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrine and keratins, mention may be made in particular of lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine #; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by the company GATTEFOSSE under the trade name Gatuline #; and Salina zooplankton extract marketed by Seporga under the trade name GP4G.

The composition according to the invention containing one or more of the above compounds is particularly suitable for use in the prevention or treatment of cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.

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 8. Agent stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes The fibroblast proliferation stimulating agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean ( for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8 # or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine #); and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins.

The agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, usable in the composition according to the invention, include retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate; nut cake extracts sold by the company GATTEFOSSE; and extracts of Solanum tuberosum marketed by SEDERMA.

Agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trademark Photopréventine #; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate marketed by Seporga under the trademark Phytocohesine; and the corn extract marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl.

The composition according to the invention comprising these compounds is preferably intended to be used for preventing or treating the cutaneous signs of aging.

 9. Muscle Relaxing Agent The muscle relaxants that can be used in the composition according to the invention include calcium channel blockers such as alverine and its salts, chlorine channel openers such as diazepam, and catecholamine and acetylcholine inhibitors such as hexapeptide argireline R marketed by LIPOTEC.

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The composition according to the invention comprising these compounds is preferably intended to be used for preventing or treating the cutaneous signs of aging and in particular wrinkles.

 10. Anti-microbial agent The antimicrobial agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention may especially be chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3, 4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopiroxe, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, l 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox, octoxyglycerine, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-acid -decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent WO9318743, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof.

Preferred antimicrobial agents are triclosan, phenoxyethanol, octoxyglycerine, octanoylglycine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, caprylyl glycol, farnesol and azelaic acid.

By way of example, the antimicrobial agent may be used in the composition according to the invention in an amount representing from 0.1 to 20%, and preferably from 0.1 to 10%, of the total weight of the composition.

The composition containing the antimicrobial agent is particularly suitable for use in the treatment of acne-prone oily skin, acne, or dandruff of the scalp.

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 11. Tensing agent "Tensing agent" means a compound capable of exerting traction on the skin, which has the effect of temporarily fading irregularities on the surface of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

Among the tensing agents that may be used in the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made in particular of: (1) polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latexes, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as a polydimethyl grafted siloxane propylthio (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio (polymethyl methacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic polyacid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic polyacid). Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO21, (2) plant proteins of soya or wheat, and / or (3) sodium and magnesium silicates (Laponites ).

The compositions according to the invention comprising the above tensing agents are advantageously intended for the treatment of cutaneous signs of aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines.

 12. Anti-pollution or anti-radical agent By the term "anti-pollution agent" is meant any compound capable of trapping ozone, mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzopyrene and / or heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium and / or nickel. By "anti-radical agent" is meant any compound capable of trapping free radicals.

As ozone-trapping agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it; olive leaf extracts; the

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tea extracts, in particular green tea; anthocyanins; rosemary extracts; phenolic acids, in particular chorogenic acid; stilbenes, in particular resveratrol; sulfur-containing amino acid derivatives, in particular S-carboxymethylcysteine; ergothioneine; N-acetylcysteine; chelating agents such as N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; descarotenoids such as crocetin; and various raw materials such as the mixture of arginine, histidine ribonucleate, mannitol, adenosinetriphosphate, pyridoxine, phenylalanine, tyrosine and hydrolysed RNA marketed by Serobiological Laboratories under the trade name CPP LS 2633-12F #, the water soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl, the mixture of fumitory extract and lemon extract marketed under the name Unicotrozon C-49 by Induchem, and the mixture of extracts of ginseng, apple, fishing, wheat and barley sold by the company
PROVITAL under the trade name Pronalen Bioprotect.

As scavengers for mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of tannins such as ellagic acid; indole derivatives, in particular indol-3-carbinol; tea extracts especially green tea, extracts of water hyacinth or eichornia crassipes; and the water soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl #.

 Finally, as scavengers for heavy metals that may be used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular chelating agents such as EDTA, the pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid, and N, N'-bis- ( 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; phytic acid; chitosan derivatives; tea extracts, especially green tea; tannins such as ellagic acid; sulfur-containing amino acids such as cysteine; water hyacinth (Eichornia crassipes) extracts; and the water soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl.

 The anti-radical agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, in addition to certain anti-pollution agents mentioned above, vitamin E and its derivatives.

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 such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone; certain enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases; glutathione; benzylidene camphor; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates; phytantriol; gamma-oryzanol; lignans; and melatonin.

 13. Anti-inflammatory agents As anti-inflammatory agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the raw materials that are effective for inhibiting at least one of the enzymes chosen from phospholipases, lipooxygenases and human prostaglandins synthetases (involved in the inflammatory process), including: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them such as ss-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or derivatives thereof (monoglucuronide glyyrrhetic acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate , 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, the extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, the calophilum oil salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, the anti-inflammatory phycosaccharides (hydrolysed algin or hydrolysed algin and zinc sulfate) of the company summer codif, phlorogine (laminaria saccharina) from Secma, canola oil, Tamanu, calophillum, (3-bisabolol and chamomile extracts, allantoin, EPC (Vitamin E and C vitamin Diester) ) of Seppic, omega 3 unsaturated oils such as musca rose, cassis, ecchium, fish oil, Secma omega plankton (plankton extract), Seppic lipacid C8G (capriloyl glycine), Seppic Seppicalm VG (Sodium Palmitoylproline and Nymphea alba), Fireweed Extract, Pygeum Extract, Quest's Soothex (Bosonia Serrata Extract), Bio-Botanica's Phytoplenolin (Centipeda Cunnighami Extract) Helioxin (extract of Helianthus annuus) from Silab, Sensiline (linum usitatissimum) from Silab, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, piperonal, clove extract, fireweed extract (Epilobium Angustifolium) ) aloe vera, bacocalmine (bacopa moniera extract) Sederma, phytosterols, horn tisone, hydrocortisone, indometacin beta methasone.

The amount of the PLA2, Lox, PGHS-1 inhibitory compounds is of course a function of the desired effect and can therefore vary to a large extent.

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To give an order of magnitude, it may be used in an amount representing from 0.001% to 10% of the total weight of the composition and preferably in an amount representing from 0.01% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

 14. Lipolytic actives or before a favorable activity, direct or indirect, on the decrease of adipose tissue.

Among the derivatives capable of promoting lipolysis, it is possible to find: 1) phosphodiesterase inhibitors, such as: xanthem derivatives, such as caffeine and its derivatives, especially the 1-hydroxyalkylxanthines described in document FR-A-2,617,401, caffeine citrate, theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine, acefylline, aminophylline, chloroethylthéophylline, diprofylline, diniprophylline, etamiphylline and its derivatives, etofylline, proxyphylline; associations containing xanthine derivatives, such as the association of. caffeine and silanol (methylsilanetriol caffeine derivative), and for example the product marketed by Exsymol under the name cafisilane C; compounds of natural origin containing xanthine bases and in particular caffeine, such as extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, mate, cola (Cola Nitida) and in particular the dry extract of guarana fruit ( Paulina sorbilis) containing 8 to 10% caffeine; - ephedrine and its derivatives which can be found naturally in plants such as Ma Huang (Ephedra plant) 2) plant extracts and extracts of marine origin, which are either active on the inhibit, such as (3-2-blockers, NPY-blockers (described in EP 838217), either inhibit the synthesis of LDL or VLDL receptors, or active to stimulate p-receptors and G-proteins, leading to Adenylcyclase activation As plant extracts of this type, there may be mentioned for example: - Garcinia Cambogia, - Extracts of Bupleurum chinensis, - Extracts of climbing ivy (Hedera Helix), Arnica (Arnica Montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), ginseng (Panax ginseng), St. John's wort (Byperycum Perforatum), birch (Ruscus

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 aculeatus L), of Ulmaria (Filipendula ulmaria L), of orthosiphon (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), of birch (Betula alba), of cecropia and argan tree.

ginkgo biloba extracts, horsetail extracts, escin extracts, cangzhu extracts, chrysanthellum indicum extracts, diosgenin-rich dioscorea extracts or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and their derivatives .

extracts of plants of the genus Armeniacea, Atractylodis Platicodon, Sinom-menum, Pharbitidis, Flemingia, extracts of Coleus such as C. Forskohlii, C. blumei, C. esquirolii, C. scutellaroides, C. xanthantus and C. Barbatus such as Coleus Barbatus root extract containing 60% forskolin, Ballote extracts, Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, Antirobia extracts.

As extract of marine origin include extracts of algae or phytopancton, such as rhodysterol or Laminaria Digitata extract marketed under the name PHYCO R 75 by Secma, the seaweed skeletonema described in the patent FR 2,782,921 or the diatoms described in patent FR 2774292.

3) peptides or proteins - peptides derived from parathyroid hormone as described in FR 2 788058 and FR 2781231 of Sederma or the peptides described in document FR 2 786 693, or even any other peptide having lipolytic properties; protamines and their derivatives such as those described in document FR-A-2,758,724.

The amount of lipolytic active (s) can vary to a large extent and depends on the nature of the asset (s) used. In general, the slimming active agent (s) are present in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

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 15. Agents acting on the microcirculation The active agents acting on the microcirculation (vasoprotective or vasodilatory), are found among the flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, escin extracted horse chestnut, nicotinates, heperidine methyl chalcone, petit houx, lavender or rosemary essential oils, extracts from Ammi Visnaga.

The amount of these assets can vary to a large extent. In general, these active agents are present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 15% and preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 16. Agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells By this expression, we mean the active agents acting on the cutaneous energetic metabolism such as, for example, and in a nonlimiting manner, the synthesis of ATP, as well as those which intervene on the respiratory chain of the cell or energy reserves. These include Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), cytochrome C, creatine or phosphocreatine.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention may also contain UVA and / or UVB filters, in the form of organic or inorganic compounds, the latter being optionally coated to make them hydrophobic.

The organic screening agents may especially be chosen from: anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available). at Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available

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in Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octylmethoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann
La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-
PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); drometrizole trisiloxane.

 The inorganic filters are preferably made of zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide, preferably of nanometric size, optionally coated with alumina and / or stearic acid.

 The invention will be better understood and its advantages will emerge more clearly, in the light of the following examples, which are given by way of illustration and without limitation.

EXAMPLES
Example 1: desquamation test by measuring the degradation of corneodesmosines
In this example, the ability of sodium methyl glycinediacetate to promote desquamation by the degradation of corneodesmosines is studied.

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Corneodesmosine is one of the major markers of desquamation in the corneodesmosome. It is studied on immunoblotting after separation by electrophoresis and membrane transfer. After specific labeling with monoclonal antibody G36-19, it is revealed by chemiluminescence. Murine monoclonal antibody G36-19 is specific for corneodesmosin, it is one of a series of antibodies directed against epidermal differentiation antigens, produced after immunization of a mouse with a human plantar horny layer homogenate, and then characterized (Serre G. et al., J. Invest Dermatol 1991, 97 (6): 1061-72).

Varnished strippings are performed on the lower legs of volunteers (modification of the procedure of Lundstrom A. and Egelrud T. Acta Derm, Venereol. (Stockh) 71, 471-474, 1991).

The nylon-varnish layers associated with the corneocytes are immersed in 1 ml / cm 2 acetone in order to detach the corneocytes. The mixture is filtered and then rinsed three times with the same volume of acetone in order to remove all traces of varnish. Finally, the mixture is dried under vacuum: acetone powders of stratum corneum are then obtained.

The acetone powders are aliquoted with 1 mg. 100 l of aqueous solutions containing 2% of active ingredients adjusted to pH 8. 0 are added. Controls without active are made under the same conditions. Two incubation times are studied: t = 0 and t = 8h. In the latter case the incubation takes place at 34 C with stirring.

After the incubation, the mixtures are centrifuged for 10 min at 10,000 g. The supernatant is removed and replaced with 100 l of Laemmli buffer 0.0625 M Tris / HCl pH 6.8.2% SDS, 200 mM DTT, 10% glycerol which allows the extraction of proteins. The mixture is boiled for 10 min at 100 ° C. and then ground with Potter. The mixture is centrifuged for 10 min at 10000 g and the supernatant is collected. It contains the proteins of the corneodesmosome.

The total proteins are assayed according to the Bradford method (Biorad kit). This allows an adjustment to 0.6 mg / ml of the samples and a real comparison of the treatments. Samples and a 1: 3 Rainbow (Amersham Pharmacia Biotech) low molecular weight standard are separated by 12% acrylamide gel electrophoresis for 100 hr / hr followed by 1 hr at 200V. After electrophoresis, the proteins are transferred to Immobilon-P membrane (Millipore) for 3 h at 60V. The membrane is then incubated twice for 15 min in TBS-TL buffer: 25mM Tris, 0.15M NaCl pH 7.2.0.05% Tween 20, 0.5% Skimmed Milk

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 powder to block non-specific sites. The incubation with the G36-19 antibody at 1/12500 is carried out overnight at 4 C. After two rinses of 5 min in TBS-TL the membrane is incubated with a goat anti-mouse IG (H + L) antibody. peroxidase conjugate (Biorad) at 1/4000 for 1 hour at room temperature. After several rinses for 5 min in TBS-TL and then TBS (without milk or Tween), the membrane is incubated for 1 min in 10 ml of ECL reagent (Amersham Pharmacia Biotech). The chemiluminescence of the corneodesmosine bands is measured with FluorS Multimager (Biorad). The 46 kDa band is quantified with Quantity-one software (Biorad).

The results of this study are summarized in Table 1 below.

Glycine is used as the reference compound in this study; the patent application EP-A2-0 852 949 (Shiseido) having shown that glycine promotes the degradation of desmoglein (corneodesmosome protein). It was tested according to a protocol similar to that described above.

Table 1
Effect of sodium methyl glycinediacetate on the degradation of corneodesmosines

<Tb>
<tb> Percentage
<tb><SEP> SEP <SEP> Increased <SEP> Molecules
<tb> degradation <SEP> of <SEP> the
<tb> corneodesmosine
<tb> Witness <SEP> 0% <SEP>
<tb> Methyl <SEP> glycinediacetate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> (TRILON <SEP> M # <SEP> of <SEP> 59% <SEP>
<tb> BASF)
<tb> Glycine <SEP> 30% <SEP>
<Tb>
The control is carried out with the solubilization buffer, without active agent, under the conditions of the test. This control takes into account the natural degradation of corneodesmosines that takes place during incubation.

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It is clear that sodium methyl glycinediacetate promotes the degradation of corneodesmosines and is better than glycine used as a positive control in this test.

Example 2: Comparative Test Two other chelants were tested in the same manner as described in Example 1: sodium iminosuccinate and triacetic acid lauroyl ethylene diamine.

These compounds have not had a favorable activity on the degradation of corneodesmosin as shown in Table 2 below.

Table 2
Effect of two chelating agents on the degradation of corneodesmosines

<Tb>
<tb> SEP <SEP> Molecules <SEP><SEP><SEP> Increased <SEP>SEP><SEP> Decay
<tb> corneodesmosine
<tb> Witness <SEP> 0 <SEP>% <SEP>
<tb><SEP> triacetic acid <SEP> lauroyl <SEP> ethylene <SEP> diamine <SEP> - <SEP> 80 <SEP>% <SEP>
<tb> Iminosuccinate <SEP> from <SEP> Na <SEP> - <SEP> 79% <SEP>
<Tb>
EXAMPLE 3 Prodesquamante Moisturizing Cream The following composition is prepared in a manner conventional to those skilled in the art.

Phase A Demineralized water QSP 100% Preservatives 0.5% Carbomer 0.4% Glycerin 7% Phase B1

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 Oxygenated sorbitan stearate (200 EO) 0.9% Phase B2 PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate 2.1% Apricot oil 10% Vaseline 2% Parlam oil 10% UV filter 1% Ceramides 0.5% Phase C Water 2% Hydrochloric acid qs PH 7 Methyl glycinediacetate sodium 5% This cream can be used in the care of dry skin.

EXAMPLE 4 Cleaning Gel for Oily Skin The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for the skilled person: Lauryl phosphate 6.5% Decyl glucoside 16.25% Polyquaternium-7 5.7% Tetrastearate pentaerythrityl oxyethylenated (150 EO) 0.5% Glycerin 3.5% Sorbitol 3.5% Potassium hydroxide 1.7% Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.2% Sodium chloride 0.1% Methyl glycinediacetate Sodium 2% Hydrochloric acid Qs PH = 7 Preservatives 0.3%

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 Water QSP 100% This gel helps regulate sebum secretions and reduce skin imperfections.

EXAMPLE 5 Prodesquamant Anti-Aging Cream Phase A Copolymer Acrylate / C10-30 Acrylate 0.5% Water 12% Phase B Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 5% Cyclohexasiloxane 5% Octyl Methoxycinnamate 1% Phase C Sodium Methyl Glycinediacetate 1% Hydrochloric Acid Qsp PH = 7 Glycerin 6% Preservatives 0.5% Centella Asiatica Extract .... 1% Water qs 100% Phase D Polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and laureth-7 1% This composition can be prepared as follows. The polymer of phase A is dispersed in water at 40 C. The constituents of phase B are heated to 70 C until complete dissolution, then the temperature is reduced to 40 C. The constituents of phase C are mixed at 50 C. Phase B is then introduced into phase A at 40 C with stirring, then phase C is added to them, as well as phase D of geification.

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Example 6 Depigmenting Cream The following composition is prepared in a manner conventional to those skilled in the art.

Phase A Demineralized water QSP 100% Preservatives 0.5% Carbomer 0.4% Glycerin 7% Phase B1 Oxyethylenated sorbitan stearate (200 EO) 0.9% Phase B2 PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate 2.1% Cyclohexasiloxane 10% Parlam oil 5% UV filter 2% Phase C Water 2% Hydrochloric acid qs PH 7 Methyl glycinediacetate sodium .... 5% kojic acid .... 0.1% This cream can be used to reduce pigment spots on hands and décolleté.

Claims (10)

 wherein: R1, R2, R3 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a radical -COOR4 where R4 is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an amino group, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxy group and / or a group alkylamino; or a sugar residue, or a salt of such a compound when R1 and / or R2 and / or R3 contain a carboxylic acid function, in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or to stimulate epidermal renewal.

 1. Cosmetic use of at least one compound corresponding to the following formula (I): 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the compound of formula (1) is chosen from those for which R1 = R2 = R3 = H and their salts, in particular inorganic salts. 3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) is sodium methyl glycinediacetate. 4. Cosmetic use of the compound of formula (I) as defined in any one of the preceding claims, in a cosmetic composition, as an agent for preventing or treating dry skin and / or cutaneous signs of aging and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or oily skin with an acne tendency. <Desc / Clms Page number 31> 5. Cosmetic treatment method for dry skin and / or cutaneous signs of aging and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or oily acne-prone skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the compound of formula (I) described in any one of claims 1 to 3. 6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that said composition contains from 0.1 to 10% by weight of compound of formula (I), relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. A compound having the following formula (1):

 in which: R 1, R 2, R 3 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a radical -COOR 4 where R 4 is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an amino group, a hydroxy group, an alkoxy group and / or an alkylamino group; or a sugar residue, or a salt of such a compound when R1 and / or R2 contain a carboxylic acid function, as a drug. 8. Use of at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, for the preparation of a composition for preventing or treating hyperkeratosis-related skin disorders. <Desc / Clms Page number 32> 9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that the disorders linked to hyperkeratosis are selected from: parapsoriasis, psoriasis, ichthyosis and lichen. 10. Composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, and at least one compound selected from: moisturizing agents; depigmenting or propigmenting agents; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; 5α-reductase inhibitors; inhibitors of lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants; antimicrobial agents; tensors; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents; anti-inflammatory agents; lipolytic actives or having a favorable activity, direct or indirect, on the decrease of adipose tissue; agents acting on microcirculation; agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells; and their mixtures.