FR2937534A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, useful to increase the survival and metabolism of fibroblasts and treating skin aging and improve the appearance of skin, comprises a combination of an orchid extract and biotin in medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition (I) comprises a combination of an orchid extract and biotin or its derivative, in a medium. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present application relates to the combination of an orchid extract with biotin or a biotin derivative, and a composition comprising said combination. It also relates to the use of this composition in the field of cosmetics or dermatology or to a cosmetic process implementing it.

Consumers are looking for skincare products with measurable short-term effectiveness with a noticeable and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin. In particular, the desired effects are a restructuring of the skin, the increase in its mechanical strength, its firmness, its flexibility and its elasticity. Some consumers also want to find or preserve a skin with a smooth appearance, a radiant effect with improved radiance.

Compositions have already been proposed to obtain these effects. However, the known compositions do not always meet the expectations of consumers, and there is therefore a need to find alternative cosmetic or dermatological compositions that make it possible to obtain a restructuring of the skin, an increase in its mechanical strength, its firmness, its flexibility and elasticity, to obtain or maintain a smoother appearance of the skin, and generally to look good, especially through an improvement in the radiance of the complexion.

The skin is a physical barrier between the body and its environment. It consists of two tissues: the epidermis and the dermis.

The epidermis is a keratinizing multiply stratified epithelium that is constantly renewing and which rests on an acellular basement membrane, called dermoepidermal junction, which ensures cohesion with the dermis. The dermis is a compressible and elastic supportive connective tissue of mesodermal origin mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix consisting of fibrous proteins (collagens and elastin), and non-fibrous proteins (proteoglycans and acid). hyaluronic on the one hand, which constitute the fundamental substance that fills the interstices between the fibers, and the glycoproteins on the other hand, which connect cells and extracellular matrix). 2 Elastin is particularly responsible for the suppleness and elasticity of the skin. The dermis is a nourishing tissue for the epidermis but it also plays a fundamental role in the development and growth of the epidermis, as well as in its differentiation. The fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix also influence the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its elasticity, tone and firmness. The fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix also influence the density of the skin. In particular, biochemically, fibroblasts play a pivotal role in the morphogenesis and dynamics of remodeling of the dermis. They are indeed responsible for the synthesis of macromolecules of the extracellular matrix.

Under certain factors, such as aging, stress, fatigue, the dermis undergoes profound changes from a molecular point of view and at the ultra structural level. Indeed, the fibroblasts present in this tissue become increasingly rare, the ability to regenerate and to develop or synthesize the constitutive molecules of the extracellular matrix decreases; we talk about cellular aging of the skin and in particular of the dermis. Thus, the properties identified above are altered and the skin then has an older appearance, it becomes dull, ashy, less bright, withered, less toned, less flexible, less firm.

Consumers are therefore looking for compositions that reduce the effects of cellular aging on the skin.

In the international application WO2006 / 000689, it is proposed anti-aging cosmetic compositions containing the combination of plant extracts based on gooseberry, black orchid (Cycnoches Cooperi) and black tulip. This combination of several plant extracts would increase the level of peri-membranous, transmembrane and matrix proteoglycans and would further increase the collagen level of human dermal fibroblasts.

However, there is still a need to offer alternative anti-aging care.

The Applicant has been able to show surprisingly and unexpectedly that the combination of an orchid extract with biotin has a positive effect on the survival and metabolism of fibroblasts. Given the influence of fibroblasts on the appearance of the skin, the use of such an association is particularly interesting from a cosmetic and / or dermatological point of view. A care comprising the combination of orchid extract and biotin or a derivative thereof has the advantage of improving the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its strength, elasticity, flexibility, tonicity and firmness, or even density. In addition, such a care makes it possible to obtain a smoother appearance of the skin and an improvement in the radiance of the complexion, in particular dull, ashy or dark skin. Finally, a care composition as proposed in the present invention makes it possible to obtain radiant, energizing and / or vitalising effects on the skin. In general, a care composition as proposed in the present invention makes it possible to provide an anti-aging care.

The invention therefore relates to the combination of an orchid extract with biotin or a derivative of biotin.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic or dermatological composition, in particular for topical application to the skin, comprising at least, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of an orchid extract and biotin or a derivative of it.

The invention also relates to the use, in particular cosmetic, of a composition according to the invention for increasing the survival and metabolism of fibroblasts.

In addition, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition for topical application to the skin comprising at least, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of an orchid extract and biotin or a derivative biotin, to improve the appearance of the skin.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, in particular for obtaining one of the effects mentioned above, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition comprising at least, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of an orchid extract and biotin or a derivative of biotin.

The invention finally relates to a cosmetic process for treating skin aging, in a preventive or curative manner, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition comprising at least, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of an orchid extract and biotin or a derivative of biotin.

The features and advantages of the invention will now be described in detail. A first object of the invention relates to a combination of an orchid extract, preferably of male orchid, and biotin or a derivative of biotin.

Unexpectedly, the applicant has been able to show that the use of the combination of an orchid extract with biotin makes it possible to increase the survival of fibroblasts, cells which play a major role in the establishment and maintenance of the structure of the dermis, and more generally in maintaining a pleasant appearance of the skin. This improvement in fibroblast survival is accompanied by an improvement in their metabolism. The observed effects are particularly surprising. Indeed, said combination not only allows a significant increase in fibroblast metabolism, but also an increase in the survival of these cells in a synergistic manner through the combination of these two assets. In the context of the present invention, the term "synergistic" or "synergistic" effect is used when the combined effect of at least two assets is greater than the sum of the effects of each asset taken separately. orchid extract ", in the context of the present invention, refers to an extract obtained from any orchid of the family Orchidaceae (Orchidaceae). It may be an extract of Black Orchid (Cycnoches Cooperi). Preferably the orchid extract is derived from an Orchid of the subfamily Orchidoideae, preferably from the Orchideae tribe, and even more preferably from the Orchidinae subtribe, the preferred genus being Orchis. Preferably, the orchid extract is selected from O extracts. maculata, Lin; O. latifolia, Lin. ; O. morio, Lin. ; O. simia, Lin. ; O. galeata, Lamk. ; Orchis abortiva L. Orchis alba; Orchis alpina; Orchis amoena; Orchis appendiculata; Orchis bifolia L.; Orchis masculas L .; Orchis brachvstachvs; Orchis caucasica; Orchis cercopitheca; Orchis columnae; Orchis condensata; Orchis conopea Orchis conopsea L.; Orchis cornopica; Orchis crenulata; Orchis duguesnii; Orchis erubescens; Orchis falcata; Orchis fusca; Orchis fuscata; Orchis qraminea; Orchis hircina; Orchis hvemalis; Orchis imbricata; Orchis insectifera (L.); Orchis intermedia; Orchis latifolia; Orchis linearis; Orchis loeselii; Orchis lokiana; Orchis macra; Orchis malalis; Orchis maxima; Orchis militaris; Orchis militaris; Orchis monorchis; Orchis moravica; Orchis moria; Orchis morio L.; Orchis mvodes; Orchis ochroleuca; Orchis odoratissima L.; Orchis ornithis; Orchis parviflora; Orchis paucifolia; Orchis peloria; Orchis Dicta; Orchis purpurea; Orchis purpurea subsp. caucasica; Orchis pvramidalis L.; Orchis pvrenaica; Orchis radiata; Orchis setacea; Orchis simia; Orchis smithii; Orchis speciosa; Orchis stenanthera; Orchis susannae; Orchis taubertiana; Orchis tephrosantos; Orchis triplicate; Orchis ustulata var. aestivalis; Orchis ustulata subsp. aestivalis; Orchis ustulata L.; Orchis ustulata var. leopoliensis; Orchis vallesiaca; Orchis zoophora Even more preferably, orchid extract is male orchid extract (Orchis Masculas L., also called Purple Orchid or Purple Orchid). The male orchid (Orchis male) includes the following subspecies and synonyms: Orchis morio L. var. male L., Orchis mascula (L.) L. subsp. occidentalis 0. Schwarz, Orchis mascula (L.) L. subsp. wanikowii (E.Wulff) Soô, Orchis mascula (L.) L. var. obtusiflora W.D.J.Koch, Orchis morio L., Orchis pareissii C.Presl, Orchis speciosa Rchb., Orchis stabiana Ten., Orchis vernalis Salisb., Orchis wanikowii E. Wulff.

Orchid extract can be obtained from the whole plant or from one or more parts of the plant, such as leaves, stems, flowers, petals, roots, seeds, bulbs, cells undifferentiated or their mixture.

The orchid may be derived from an in vivo culture or from an in vitro culture. By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type, that is to say in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse, or above ground. By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vivo. Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the orchid extract contained in the combination according to the invention. In particular, the method described in patent application IO 97/18283 can be implemented. In particular, extracts obtained using aqueous, alcoholic, more generally organic solvents, or their mixtures in any proportion, may be mentioned in particular. Any suitable extraction solvent can be used. By way of example, mention is made of water and / or organic solvents miscible with water or their mixtures. The organic solvents may be alcohols, in particular C 1 -C 8 alcohols (such as methanol or ethanol), alkanes or esters. The extraction solvent is advantageously a solvent that can be used as it is in the cosmetic field. The following can especially be mentioned: water, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol of any molecular weight, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, hexylene glycol, but also ethanol, propanol, butanol and other polyols (pentanediol, hexanols, sorbitol and other liquid sugars) as well as all the mixtures of these extractant solvents. Thus, the orchid extract may in particular be obtained by adding to all or part of the plant, optionally cut and / or ground beforehand, solvents as described above, such as water and possibly glycerine. , optionally heating the mixture obtained, followed by extraction, and then filtration. The conditions (such as temperature, pressure, and duration) in which the extraction takes place depend on the desired extract and can be established by those skilled in the art.

Orchid extracts are also available commercially. In particular, a male orchid extract is marketed by CRODAROM under the trade name Crodarom Purple Orchid (INCI name: Water, Glycerin, Orchis Mascula Extract).

Biotin, also called vitamin H, vitamin B7, vitamin B8 or coenzyme R, is a molecule with the following structure: It is water-soluble, thermostable and sensitive to UV. It is a coenzyme that participates in the metabolism of fatty acids, carbohydrates and amino acids. For the purposes of the invention, the term "biotin" covers the eight isomers of the preceding formula capable of being used in isolated form or as mixtures. As a preferred isomer, there may be mentioned more particularly the D - (+) - biotin isomer. Many biotin derivatives are known to date. Within the meaning of the invention, the biotin derivatives cover both the different steroisomeric forms of the biotin formula, the precursor forms of biotin, as well as the biotin salts. Compounds qualified as precursors are generally converted to biotin in vitro and / or in vivo. For example, lipophilic derivatives of biotin are particularly useful in that they penetrate more readily through the skin. By way of derivatives, mention may also be made of ester derivatives and more specifically ester derivatives corresponding to formulas (I) or (II) below.

Wherein R1 is H, C1-C20-alkyl, C5-C7-cycloalkyl or aryl; R2 and R3 are, independently of one another, an H atom or a C1-C5-alkoxycarbonyl radical; and R4 is H, C1-C20-alkyl or C1-C5-alkoxycarbonyl. The radical C1-C20-alkyl is preferably a C1-C10 alkyl radical, more preferably a C1-C6 alkyl radical, such as a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl or n-butyl radical. -butyl or iso-butyl group. The C 5 -C 7 cycloalkyl radical is preferably a cyclohexyl group. An aryl radical is preferably a C 5 -C 10 aryl radical, in particular a phenyl group.

The C1-C5 alkoxycarbonyl radical is preferably a C1-C3 alkoxycarbonyl radical. The radical R1 is preferably a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical. At least one of the radicals R2 or R3 is preferably a hydrogen atom, even more preferably the two radicals R2 and R3 are hydrogen atoms.

The radical R4 is preferably a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, even more preferably a hydrogen atom. The radicals R2, R3 and R4 are preferably all hydrogen atoms, and the radical R1 is a C1-C6 alkyl radical as defined above.

As regards the biotin salts which can be used according to the present invention, they may be alkaline, alkaline earth and other salts such as ammonium salts and organic base salts. It may especially be sodium, potassium, calcium and / or magnesium salts. Because of the presence of the hydrogen atom at the level of biotin or of one of its derivatives of formula (II) in which R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, it can also be used in the form of an organic or inorganic acid salt. As an illustration of these acid salts, there may be mentioned more particularly hydrochloride. The preparation of these salts is within the skill of those skilled in the art.

Biotin (INCI name: BIOTIN) is supplied by the company DSM Nutritional Products under the name Co-N'Zyme TMR at a content of 100% active ingredient.

In a particular embodiment, the combination according to the invention is included in a composition for topical application to the skin comprising at least, in a physiologically acceptable medium, said combination.

According to a preferred embodiment, the orchid extract is introduced into the composition at a concentration of between 0.001 and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Similarly, the biotin may be introduced into the composition at a concentration of between 0.001 and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of soy protein extract, bifidus lysates, and a salicylic acid derivative.

The term "soy protein extract" in the context of the present invention refers to extracts of soybean polypeptides, optionally hydrolysed. The soy proteins are extracted (from the seed or any other part of the plant) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. A soy protein hydrolyzate is preferably used as the soy protein extract.

The hydrolysis can then be carried out according to several methods known to those skilled in the art. The soy proteins thus extracted can be brought into contact with an enzymatic cocktail in the presence of water so that they are hydrolyzed, and then a filtration is carried out in order to separate the hydrolyzate. According to another method, the soy proteins can be contacted with a microorganism (Lactobacillus, for example) containing an enzymatic cocktail (proteases), in a fermentation process during which the peptide hydrolysis will take place. This follows the separation of microorganisms from the hydrolyzate. In particular, the soy protein hydrolyzate corresponds to polypeptides of average molecular weight of 800 Daltons, obtained by fermentation of soy proteins with a strain of lactobacillus.

Among the soy protein extracts, there may be mentioned the soybean extract marketed by Gognis under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8 corresponding to a dispersion of soy protein in an aqueous medium (EU INCI name: GLYCINE SOJA PROTEIN) . Among the hydrolysates of soy proteins, mention may be made, for example, of the hydrolysates of soya marketed by the companies COLETICA and / or BASF Beauty Gare Solutions under the trade name Phytokine (CAS number: 68607-88-5, INCI name: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein) or an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE C from SILAB, Soyaline (soy oligomptides, proline-rich, arginine and aspartic acid obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis) from Solabia (INCI name EU: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein ) or the Soymilk extract (Cosmetochem International Ltd).

Among the bifidus lysates, there may be mentioned the repair complex CLR (or Repair Complex CLR, CAS number: 96507-89-0, INCI name: Bifida Ferment Lysate) marketed by CLR Chemisches Laboratorium. This complex corresponds to a lysate of bifidus bacteria which contains, after culturing, inactivation and disintegration of the bifidus bacteria, the products resulting from their metabolism, cytoplasmic fractions, cell wall fragments and polysaccharide complexes in a weakly acid medium.

Among the salicylic acid derivatives which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may notably be made of the alkyl, alkoxy, ester or ketoxy derivatives of salicylic acid, and especially the derivatives of formula (III) or a salt thereof. derivative: embedded image in which: R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclized aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or ketoxy chain, saturated or unsaturated, these chains comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms and capable of be substituted by at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or by a carboxyl function, which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and

R 'represents a hydroxyl group or an ester function of formula: -O-C-R5 O where R5 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the R radical has at least 4 carbon atoms. It is for example formed of a saturated linear alkyl or alkoxy radical having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the salicylic acid derivative is chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid and ndodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and this is in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

It may also be salts of these acids, and in particular salts obtained by salification with a base. As bases capable of salifying the salicylic acid derivatives according to the invention, mention may be made of mineral bases such as alkali metal hydroxides (sodium and potassium hydroxides) or ammonium hydroxides or, more preferably, organic bases. Preferably, amphoteric bases are used for the salification of salicylic acid derivatives, that is to say bases having both anionic and cationic functional groups.

The amphoteric bases may be primary, secondary, tertiary or cyclic organic amines, and more particularly amino acids. As an example of amphoteric bases, mention may be made of glycine, lysine, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxy-methylaminomethane (TRISTA), triethanolamine. These bases are used in sufficient quantities to bring the pH of the emulsion between 5 and 7 and thus close to that of the skin. It follows a great compatibility of the composition according to the invention vis-à-vis the skin. Among the salicylic acid derivatives which may be used, mention may be made, for example, of 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid marketed by Chimex SA under the trade name MEXORYL SAB (CAS number: 78418-01-6, INCI name: Capryloyl). Salicylic acid, crude formula: C15H2OO4, molecular weight: 264 g / mol). Each of the additional compounds described above may be introduced into the composition according to the invention at a concentration of between 0.001 and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, and still preferably between 0.01 and 1% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the combination of an orchid extract, preferably a male orchid extract, biotin or a biotin derivative and an extract. soy protein, preferably a soy protein hydrolyzate, preferably phytokine. In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the combination of an orchid extract, preferably a male orchid extract, biotin or a biotin derivative, a soy protein extract, preferably a soy protein hydrolyzate, preferably phytokine, and a bifidus lysate, preferably the CLR complex described above. In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the combination of an orchid extract, preferably a male orchid extract, biotin or a biotin derivative, a soy protein extract, preferably a soy protein hydrolyzate, preferably phytokine, and a salicylic acid derivative, preferably 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid.

In the "Examples" section below, the applicant shows that the combination of an orchid extract, biotin or a biotin derivative, and a soy extract is particularly interesting since Synergistic action of these assets could be shown on the metabolism of fibroblasts. It has also shown that the combination of an orchid extract, biotin or a biotin derivative, a soy extract and a bifidus lysate has a synergistic action on the survival of fibroblasts and their metabolism.

The composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic or pharmaceutical application, particularly dermatological. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is intended for a cosmetic application.

The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of dispersions of the lotion or aqueous gel type, of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency. milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency, of the cream or gel type, or in the form of a serum, a stick or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, nanoemulsions, thin films, dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. It is also possible to use a composition according to the invention in the form of a two-phase water and oil. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention, when they comprise at least one aqueous phase (eg aqueous solutions, emulsions, etc.), is preferably between 4 and 9, preferably between 4 and 7, advantageously from 5 to 6, and in particular a pH of 5.5.

The composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product, but also a toilet and / or makeup.

This composition may constitute a mask, a cream for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, or for the body (for example, day creams, night creams, make-up removing creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams), make-up removing milk, lotion, gel or foam for skin care, such as a cleaning lotion.

The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin of the face and / or the body. In other words, the medium used has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort (such as tingling, tugging, redness), likely to divert the consumer from using this composition. Preferably, the media used in the context of the invention are O / W or W / O emulsions or multiple, having at least one fatty phase, and at least one aqueous phase, one or surfactants. They may advantageously comprise fillers (providing, in particular, softness and / or immediate effects), perfume, specific actives (caffeine type for the eyes, vitamin CG for serum, tensing agents, etc.) and glycerin.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances. It is also possible to combine in the compositions according to the invention additives and / or cosmetic or dermatological active agents.

It may thus be advantageous to use any type of surfactant. The emulsifying surfactants differ from the foaming surfactants by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system, A timesaving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, while that the foaming surfactants generally have an HLB greater than 20. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a surfactant having an HLB between 3 and 18. The surfactant may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, or even from 5 to 10% by weight, weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Mention may also be made of surfactants conventionally used, such as derivatives of PEG (polyethylene glycol) or of sorbitan (sold under the names Arlacel, Span or Mirj) or sugar derivatives (sold under the names Montanov, Tegosoft or Glucate SS), with or without co-surfactant, such as alcohols or fatty acids. For W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US-A-5, 412,004 and examples of US-A-5,811,487, including the product of Example 3 (Synthesis Example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu. Other types of KSG marketed by Shin Etsu can also be used, such as KSG-16. For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate. Exfoliating particles, fillers or mixtures thereof can also be used in the compositions of the invention.

As exfoliating particles, it is possible to use exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, it is possible to use, for example, the balls or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the Dupont company. ; nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Polymamide PULP 12185 SIZE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; hulls of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut hulls; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International, sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Florasphères by Floratech; and their mixtures.

Polyethylene waxes, for example those marketed under the reference CIREBELLE 104 (Blue 425-850) by the company CIREBELLE (Pty) Ltd can also be mentioned.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain fillers such as, for example, talc, modified starch or not, and in particular starches esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly "Aluminum Starch octenyl succinate" such as product marketed by National Starch under the name Dry-Flo.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one filler. These fillers can be any material that can mask the visible or tactile irregularities of the skin. These fillers can in particular modify the surface appearance of the skin by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect. As a filler, the following compounds can be exemplified: - porous silica microparticles, for example Myochi's Silica Beads SB 150 and SB 700 of average size of 5 μm and SUNSPHERESO series H of Asahi Glass as the H33, H51 of size respectively 3.5 and 5 pm. hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849; silicone resin powders, for example SILICON Resin TospearI0 145 A DE GE silicone of average size of 4.5 pm. powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance the PMMA Jurimer MBIO particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μm, and the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEADO LH 85 by the company Wackherr and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name ExpanceI0. wax powders such as Paraffin wax microloase O 114S particles of 10 micropowders of average size of 7 μm. polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADSO EA 209 E from Sumimoto with a mean size of 10 μm. crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100, KSP 1010, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by the company Shin Etsu. talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders such as for example the Cverleaf AR 80 from Catalyst & Chemical. talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate of hydrocarbonate magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules. synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers, mineral or organic, such as fibers of silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene , Polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742. - spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones such as Trefil E-505C or E-506 C from Dow Corning. abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example abrasive SPO from Semanez 5 or powders of nuts or shells (apricot, walnuts, for example from Cosmetochem).

The load can be a soft focus load. By soft-focus charge, we mean a charge which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the soft-focus charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical. The soft-focus fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, powders of polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a mean size of 1.8 microns, and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3 by the company Nippon Talc. , Nylon 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos by Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example of reference H-53 by the company Asahi Glass, and silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name denomination SB-700 or SB-150 by the company Miyoshi, this list not being limiting.

These exfoliating particles and fillers may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions may also comprise all the constituents usually employed in the intended application. In particular, it is advantageous to use in the compositions, in addition to the combination described above, at least one ingredient and / or an additional skin care active ingredient. Non-exhaustively, there may be mentioned in particular the assets and in particular the anti-aging assets already known.

Among the active agents and in particular the anti-aging active agents that may be used in the context of the present invention, may be mentioned as non-limiting examples: soy protein extracts, such as the product marketed by Silab under the trade name Raffermine ), adenosine or synthetic adenosine such as that marketed by Pharma Waldoff, the pro-xylane rye seed extracts such as those marketed by Silab under the name Coheliss, extracts of alfalfa (alfalfa) such as those marketed by Silab under the name Vitanol, the tetrapeptide (N-acetyl-Gln-ASP-VAL-HIS) such as that marketed by Cognis under the reference Dermican LS 9745, rice di- and tri-peptides such as those available from Silab under the Nutriskin reference, aconitifolia vigna seed extracts such as those marketed by Cognis under the references Vitoptine LS 9529 and Vit-A-Like L S9737, Salicyloyl Phyto-sphingosine available from Evonik under the name Phyto-Sphingosine SLC, extracts of Euglena gracilis such as those available from Sederma under the reference Chronodyn, wheat amino acids coupled to palmitic acid marketed under the name reference Deepline PVB (Lipacid PVB) by Seepic, bilberry extracts such as Herbasol Bilberry Extract of Cosmetochem, extracts of ginger root, aqueous extracts of Shii Take (LEntinus edodes) as Fermiskin of Silab, the antarcticine Lipotec, extracts of Punica granatum, argireline SC36 (hexapeptide (Acetyl-Glu-Glu-Meth-Glu-Arg-Arg-Amide) from the company Lipotec, an oat extract like that marketed by Silab under the reference Reductine , a purple rice extract such as Purple rice extract from the Oryza company, vine flower cell dispersions such as the Fiber Booster Sequoia vitis flower from Na olys, ferulic acid such as Oryzaferulix from Oryza Oil and fat, extracts of Voandzeia subterranea (Bambara) such as Filadyn LS 9397 from Cognis, soybean extracts such as Elhibin sold by Pentapharm , an extract of the fruit Prunus domestica hydrolyzed as Clairju reference of the company Ichimaru Pharco. The additional active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists ( PBR), the agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, the agents stimulating the energy metabolism of the cells, the tensing agents, the liporestructuring agents, the slimming agents, the agents promoting microcirculation of the skin, the soothing agents and / or antiirritants, sebo-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic s astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-acne agents and sunscreens.

Those skilled in the art will choose the active agent (s) depending on the desired effect on the keratin materials. Preferably, it will choose at least one active agent chosen from hydrating agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macro-molecules and / or epidermal and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral receptor antagonists of Benzodiazepines (PBR), agents that increase the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents that stimulate the energy metabolism of cells, liporestructuring agents and agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation for the eye area.

Among the active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those which act: either on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; and arginine. or on the inhibition of the degradation of collagen, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as, more particularly, MMP 1, 2, 3, 9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol of Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon fios-aquae (cyanophyceae) marketed under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by BASF Beauty Gare Solutions under the trade name Collalift; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (marketed for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704; Dipalmitoy HYDROXYPROLINE marketed by Seppic under the name SEPILIFT DPHP Baccharis genistelloide or Baccharine marketed by SILAB, a moringa extract such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; the sage extract described in application FR-A-2812544 of the labiae family (salvia officinalis from Flacksmann), Rhododendron extract, blueberry extract, a vaccineium myrtillus extract such as those described in application FR-A-2814950. Or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the family of elastins (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C. or on the inhibition of the degradation of elastin, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN-Cognis under the trade name Parelastyl; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with an alcohol C 1 -C 6; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica. or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by ALBAN MULLER under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from Silab under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne from Secma; the essence of Lucas Meyer's Mamaku, a watercress extract (Odraline de Silab). or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as Salina zooplankton extract marketed by Seporga under the trade name GP4G; the yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MULLER under the trade name Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil.

Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made in particular of the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC; and Salina zooplankton extract marketed by the company SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G; Copper tripeptide from PROCYTE; ; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397.

Preferably, an active ingredient stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation chosen from agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, the agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin, the agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, use will be made of an active agent stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans chosen from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, the essence of Mamaku, an extract of cress and their mixtures. As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: synthetic peptides such as amin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as the product marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; arginine; an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, the malt extract marketed by BASF Beauty Gare Solutions under the trade name Collalift or Basaline; lycopene; an extract of lychee; an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N- acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C1-C6 alcohol; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by ALBAN MULLER under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from Silab under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina'ine from Secma; the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer, the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC.

The agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts that can be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C.

Preferably, an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used. Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos' Amacha liquid E, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma's Capislow, papaya extract, olive leaf and lemon extracts such as Vincient Xyline, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha liquid E Ichimaru Pharcos, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, walnut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin marketed by Sederma. Among the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate, such as that sold by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohésine; and a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate. As agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned also estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines. As active agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes, mention may be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trademark Structurine; a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate. Hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners or gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, antioxidants, fillers, odor absorbers, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon-based polymers, may also be mentioned. opacifiers, stabilizers, conditioners, propellants, dyes, pigments, depigmenting agents, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, sequestering agents, polyols and especially glycerin, pH adjusters (acids or bases).

It will be possible to combine the additional active ingredients and ingredients described in patent application WO 2004/105736, incorporated herein by reference, among which depigmenting agents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, antiperspirants, sebum regulating agents, metal chelators , UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, antioxidants, vitamins in addition to biotin or biotin derivative, anti-inflammatory agents, soothing or anti-irritant agents, moisturizing agents, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, and their mixtures.

A composition of the invention may contain at least one organic UV filter chosen from hydrophilic organic screening agents, lipophilic organic screening agents and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, one or more physical filters can be associated with it. Examples of organic UV-A and / or UV-B active filters which can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, designated above under their CTFA name: Derivatives para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA): PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name UVINUL P25 by BASF, Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name EUSOLEX HMS by RONA / EM INDUSTRIES, Ethylhexyl salicylate (or ethyl hexyl salicylate) sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by HAARMANN and REIMER, Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name DIPSAL name by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by HAARMANN and REIMER, Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name 5 PARSOL 1789 by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, Derivative cinnamic esters: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (or Octyl Methoxycinnamate) sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Derivatives of 3, 3-diphenylacrylate Octocrylene (α-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate of 2-ethylhexyl) sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF, Benzophenone Derivatives: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, Benzophenone-5 Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name HELISORB 11 by NORQUAY Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name SPECTRA-SORB UV-24 BY AMERICAN CYANAMID Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, Benzophenone-12 Derivatives of benzylidene camphor: 3- Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by CHIMEX, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO by 5 CHIMEX, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by CHIMEX, - Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by CHIMEX, 10 Derivatives of phenyl benzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck, Benzimidazilate sold under the name trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by HAARMANN and REIMER, 15 Derivatives of triazine: - Anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by CIBA GEIGY, Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T 150 by BAS F, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB HEB 20 by SIGMA 3V, Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole : Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatriazole by Rhodia Chimie, Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl Anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by Haarmann and Reimer, Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX 30 by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE and their mixtures. The more particularly preferred organic UV filters are chosen from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (terephthalylidene dicamphosulphonic acid), Benzophenone 3-Benzophenone-4-Benzophenone-5,4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor), Benzimidazilate, Anisotriazine, Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The organic filter (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and better still from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . As physical filters which may also be present in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments and nano-pigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, in particular the oxides of titanium, iron, zirconium and zinc or cerium, and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments), optionally coated.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the combination according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition.

In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the compositions used may additionally comprise at least one desquamating agent and / or at least one soothing agent.

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as ahydroxyacids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol; or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of the chelating agents of mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N', ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

As soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, such as 3-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or derivatives thereof (I glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, the phycosaccharides of the company Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, the canola oil, the bisabolol and the extracts of chamomile, the allantoin, the Sepepital EPC Seppic (diesterphosphoric vitamin E and C), omega 3 unsaturated oils such as rosehip musk, black currant, ecchium, fish, plankton extract, capryloyl glycine, Seppicalm VG (sodium palmitoylproline and nymphea alba) of Seppic, an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum usitatissimum, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, piperonal, clove extract, Epilobium Angustifolium extract, aloe vera, Bacopa moniera extract 32, phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, beta methasone and D-panthenol

The additional active agents may be present in the compositions of the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The effects that the compositions described above have on the fibroblasts, in particular the synergistic effects characterized by the Applicant, can be implemented in a cosmetic or dermatological application of the combination according to the invention. Indeed, given the properties of fibroblasts, the application of the composition according to the invention on the skin results in a better general condition of the dermis of the user, and has a direct impact on the general appearance of the skin. The benefits to be derived from the increase in the survival and metabolism of fibroblasts, ie the activation of cellular vitality, include an improvement in the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibers, especially elastin, an improvement of the hydration of the skin and a restructuring of the skin.

Thus, another subject of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition for topical application to the skin as described above, for treating (in a preventive or curative manner) the signs of aging, in particular to improve the appearance of the skin, and more specifically to improve the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its strength, elasticity, suppleness, tone, firmness or density, to improve the texture of the skin, in particular to get a smoother look on the skin, improve radiance, or benefit from a radiant, energizing or vitalizing effect on the skin. The invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above, as an anti-aging or healing care. It also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as regenerating skin care.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for treating (in a preventive or curative manner) the signs of aging of the skin, in particular for improving the appearance of the skin, and more specifically for giving at least one of the effects mentioned above. above, comprising applying to the skin a composition on the skin as described above. It also relates to a method for regenerating the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition as described above.

The composition can be applied in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art. In particular, it may be envisaged to apply the composition directly to the skin or to dilute it beforehand in a suitable solvent. According to a particular embodiment, said method according to the invention further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin of the composition. Thus, after application to the skin, the composition can be rinsed after a pause, advantageously between 5 and 30 minutes. The composition is applied to the skin, occlusively or otherwise, particularly on all or part of the face, neck, body, legs, arms, hands and / or feet.

When occlusively applied, this may be in the form of a mask, preferably with a weekly, biweekly or monthly application frequency.

It can also be used in cure with, for example, a daily application or twice daily for one or two weeks. The composition may be applied using various types of media, such as wipes, rolls, brushes, or any other applicator tool.

The composition is more particularly intended for skins presenting: - signs of old age (such as ptosis, looseness, wrinkles, spots ...), and / or - a lack of firmness, and / or 30 - cutaneous dehydration, and / or - signs of dullness, and / or - signs or tiredness, and / or - signs or a state of oxidative stress (especially due to pollution or external agents such as UV), and / or - skin dryness, and / or - lack of energy. This composition is also more particularly intended for subjects with bags under the eyes and / or dark circles.

The examples which follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. The compounds are, as the case may be, cited in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). Percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Effect on the Survival of the Cells in a Depleted Medium and on the Metabolic Activity

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the ability of different actives, alone or in combination, to stimulate the metabolism and survival of fibroblasts in a deficient medium. Previously, the fibroblasts are subjected to treatment with mitomycin C, a substance that will prevent them from proliferating by blocking the cell cycle, in order to analyze only the survival of existing cells.

The different parameters studied are: - cell survival, measured by counting cells - metabolic activity, measured by the MTT reduction test.

The products tested in the following examples are: Test product Orchid Complex CLR Biotin Phytokine INCI name EU ORCHIS MASCULA EXTRACT BIFIDA FERMENT LYSATE BIOTIN HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN Biological model - Cell type: Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF), - Culture conditions: 37 ° C, 5% CO2 - Culture medium: DMEM (Dulbecco's modified Eagle's medium) (Invitrogen 21969035) supplemented with: 2mM L-glutamine (Invitrogen 25030024) Penicillin 50 IU / ml to Streptomycin 50 μg / ml (Invitrogen 15070063) 10% fetal calf serum (FCS) (Invitrogen 10270098) - Test medium: DMEM (Invitrogen 21969035) supplemented with: 2mM L-glutamine (Invitrogen 25030024) Penicillin 50IU / ml to Streptomycin 50μg / ml (Invitrogen 15070063) Fetal calf serum (FCS) 10/0 (Invitrogen 10270098) - Depleted medium: Mixture of 60% test medium and 40% EBSS (Earle's balanced solution) (Invitrogen 14755-048) Fetal calf serum ( FCS) 0.6% (Invitrogen 102700 98)

Culture and treatment The fibroblasts were seeded in culture medium until confluence. Cell divisions were then blocked by mitomycin C treatment (50 μg / ml) for 2 hours at 37 ° C, 5% CO2. At the end of the incubation the cells were washed and then treated with depleted medium containing or not (control) the test compounds or mixtures. In parallel, the cells were also treated with culture medium (complete medium) and test medium (1% FCS medium) and incubated for 24, 48, 72 and / or 96 hours.

Evaluation of cell metabolism - mitochondrial activity Transformation of the colorless tetrazolium salt (MTT: 3- (4,5-dimethyl-thiazol-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) into blue crystals of formazan, soluble in DMSO, is proportional to the activity of succinate dehydrogenase (a mitochondrial enzyme). As a result, the transformation of MTT into formazan crystals by succinate dehydrogenase is proportional to the number of living cells. The cells were incubated in the presence of MTT and then dissociated and the formazan crystals were solubilized. The optical density (OD) at 540 nm, representative of the number of living cells, was measured at each incubation time.

Measurement of Cell Number and Morphology The culture medium was removed and the cells were CFDA-labeled for 30 minutes. The cells were then rinsed and the images were acquired using the InCell AnalyzerTM 1000. For each well, 10 digitized image captures were made. The markings were quantified by measuring the number of cells identified by the CFDA (Digital Data Integration by Developer Toolbox 1.5, GE Healthcare) at each incubation time.

Data processing Intergroup comparisons were performed using the Student's test. Statistical analyzes can be interpreted if n> _5; however, for n <5, the calculated data are provided for information only (where n is the number of identical tests performed).

Significant differences are shown in the following tables, marked by one or more asterisks (*). In the remainder of these examples, since the other values are not significantly different from the value obtained with the cells under the reference conditions (cells cultured in complete medium for Table 1, cells grown in depleted medium for Tables 2 and 3), they will be considered as equal to 100% for the interpretation of the results.

Formulas used in the examples 37 Standard error of the mean: esm = standard deviation (Sd) / ~ n (The standard error of the mean (esm) represents the deviation of the mean of the sample from the mean Esm is calculated by dividing the Sd by the square root of the sample size) Percentage of viability:% viability = (compound OD / control OD) x 100 Example 1-1: Effect on the size of the sample cell survival in depleted media

Media Validation The percentages expressed in Table 1 correspond to the proportion of cells counted 24 hours after treatment with Mitomycin C in the different media tested, compared to the number of cells counted at the same times in the complete medium. Thus, the percentages were expressed arbitrarily considering that the number of cells counted in the complete medium, at each incubation time, corresponds to 100%. Treatment% number of cells 24h Complete medium 100 Medium 1% SVF 101 Control medium 90 *** depleted MA Table 1: Effect of depleted media on the survival of fibroblasts in culture. After treatment with mitomycin C, the cells are cultured for 24 hours in depleted or non-depleted medium. Statistically significant difference (* p <0.01 ** p <0.05 and *** p <0.001).

Under the experimental conditions of this study, a decrease in the number of cells was observed in all culture conditions during the 24 hours of treatment. This therefore confirms that mitomycin C prevents the proliferation of cells under culture conditions in a deficient medium. This result validates the test. According to the results obtained, the deficient medium induces a decrease in fibroblast survival after 24 hours of culture relative to complete medium (-10% relative to the complete control). Mitomycin C treatment therefore works well throughout the course of treatment by blocking the proliferation of fibroblasts.

Effect of the Tested Products The percentages expressed in Table 2 correspond to the proportion of cells counted 24 hours after treatment with Mitomycin C in the various media tested, relative to the number of cells counted at the same time in the depleted medium. Thus, the percentages were expressed arbitrarily by considering that the number of cells counted in the depleted medium corresponds to 100%. Treatment ° Io number of cells 24h Control Depleted medium 100 Medium 1% SVF 112 * Complete medium 111 *** Orchid 0.1% 107 1% 102 Complex 0.2% 110 CLR 2% 114 *** Biotin 0.1mg / ml 106 1mg / ml 115 Phytokine 0.1% 111 112 ** Blend 1 Orchid 0.1% 116 * + Biotin 0.1 mg / ml Orchid 1% 119 ** + Biotin 1 mg / ml Blend 2 Orchid 0.1% 111 + Phytokine 0.1% Orchid 1% 106 ** + 1% Phytokine Table 2: Effect of different treatments on the survival of fibroblasts in culture. After treatment with mitomycin C, the cells are cultured for 24 hours in depleted or non-depleted medium. Statistically significant difference: * p <0.01 ** p <0.05 and *** p <0.001.20 Under the experimental conditions of this study, the complete medium allows more important cell survival than the deficient medium after 24h culture (+ 110/0 with respect to the depleted middle control, significant). The 2% CLR complex makes it possible to slightly but significantly reduce the decrease in the number of cells following the depletion of the medium, after 24 hours of culture (+ 14% relative to the depleted medium control). Thus, it restores a level of cell survival close to that of the cells cultured in complete medium. Phytokine tested at 1% significantly increases cell survival after 24 hours of culture (+ 12% relative to the depleted medium control) at a survival level close to that of the cells cultured in complete medium. The Orchid / Biotin combination at the two concentrations tested, slightly but significantly increases the survival of the cells after 24 hours of culture (+ 16% and + 19% compared to the depleted middle control). The inventors thus show a slight synergistic effect of the products on this parameter after 24 hours of culture.

The association Orchid / Phytokine at the highest concentration makes it possible to slightly but significantly reduce the decrease in the number of cells following the depletion of the medium after 24 hours of culture (+ 6% compared to the depleted middle control). The combination of the two active agents does not show a synergistic effect on cell survival because the effects obtained are equivalent to those of Phytokine alone.

Example 1-2: Effect on Metabolic Activity

Validation of the media The percentages expressed in Table 3 correspond to the proportion of the metabolic activity of the cells in the different media tested at 24, 48, 72 and 96 hours after treatment with mitomycin C, with respect to the metabolic activity of the cells. at the same times in the complete medium. Thus, the percentages were expressed arbitrarily by considering that the number of cells counted in the complete medium, at each incubation time, corresponds to 100%. The results are compiled in Table 3.

Treatment% MTT% MTT 48h 96h Medium 100 100 complete Medium 1% 81 71 SVF Control Medium 74 ** 68 *** depleted MA Table 3: Effect of the deficient medium on the metabolic activity of fibroblasts in culture. After treatment with mitomycin C, the cells are cultured for 48 hours and 96 hours in depleted or non-depleted medium. Metabolic activity is measured by an MTT incorporation test. Statistically significant difference: * p <0.01 ** p <0.05 and *** p <0.001.

Under the experimental conditions of this test, the deficient medium used induces a significant decrease in the metabolic activity of the fibroblasts after 48 hours of culture relative to the complete medium. This result validates the test. Effect of the products Treatment% MTT% MTT 48h 96h Control Medium depleted MA 100 100 Medium 1% SVF 111 105 Complete medium 136 ** 147 *** Orchid 0.1% 113 110 * 1% 110 102 Complex CLR 0.2% 110 109 2% 112 109 Biotin 0.1mg / ml 110 112 1 mg / ml 112 108 Phytokine 0.1% 117 * 116 * 1% 114 118 * Orchid 0.1% 114 * 114 ** + Biotin 0.1 mg / ml Mixture 1 115 * 106 * Orchid with 1% + Biotin 1 mg / ml Orchid 0.1% 114 * 116 ** + Phytokine 0.1% Blend 2 110 115 ** Orchid 1% + Phytokine 1% Blend 3 Orchid 0.1% 117 * 121 ** + Biotin 0.1 mg / ml + Phytokine 0.1% Orchid 1% 120 * 115 ** + Biotin 1 mg / ml + Phytokine 1% Orchid 0.1% 120 * 124 *** + Biotin 0.1 mg / ml + Complex CLR 0.2% + Blend 4 Phytokine 0.0% Orchid 1% 123 ** 119 ** + Biotin 1 mg / ml + Complex CLR 2% + Phytokine 1% Table 4: Effect of different treatments on metabolic activity of fibroblasts in culture. After treatment with mitomycin C, the cells are cultured for 48 hours and 96 hours in depleted or non-depleted medium. Metabolic activity is measured by an MTT incorporation test. Statistically significant difference: * p <0.01 ** p <0.05 and *** p <0.001. Under the experimental conditions of this study, fibroblasts cultured in complete medium have a significantly greater metabolism than cells cultured in depleted medium, whatever the time studied. Under the experimental conditions of this test, the orchid tested at 0.1% allows slightly but significantly increase the metabolic activity of the fibroblasts after 96h of culture (+ 10% compared to the depleted middle control).

Phytokine tested at 0.1% significantly increases the metabolic activity of fibroblasts after 48h and 96h of culture (respectively + 17% and + 16% compared to the depleted middle control).

Tested at 1%, Phytokine increases the metabolic activity of fibroblasts after 96h of culture only (+ 18% compared to the control depleted medium).

After 48h and 96h of culture, the association Orchidée / Biotine at the two concentrations tested shows a significant increase in metabolic activity compared to the control depleted medium. The inventors thus show a slight synergistic effect of the products on this parameter.

The Orchid / Phytokine combination at the lowest concentration tested induces a slight but significant increase in the fibroblast metabolic activity after 96h of culture (+ 16% compared to the depleted medium control). This same association at the highest concentration tested induces a significant increase in the fibroblast metabolic activity after 96h of culture (+ 15% compared to the depleted medium control).

The association Orchid / Biotin / Phytokine at the lowest concentration slightly but significantly increases the metabolic activity of fibroblasts after 48h and 96h of culture (+ 17% and + 21% compared to the control depleted medium). The inventors show a high synergistic effect of the products on this parameter after 96 hours of culture. The association Orchid / Biotin / Phytokine at the highest concentration slightly but significantly increases the metabolic activity of fibroblasts after 48h and 96h of culture (+ 20% and + 15% compared to the depleted middle control). The inventors show a slight synergistic effect of the products on this parameter after 48 hours of culture. At the other times analyzed, no significant effect is observed.

The association Orchid / Biotin / Complex CLR / Phytokine at the lowest concentration slightly but significantly increases the metabolic activity of fibroblasts after 48h and 96h of culture (+ 20% and + 24% compared to the depleted middle control). The inventors show a slight synergistic effect of the products on this parameter after 96 hours of culture. This same association at the highest concentration slightly but significantly increases the metabolic activity of fibroblasts after 48h and 96h of culture (+ 23% and + 19% compared to the depleted middle control). The inventors show a high synergistic effect of the products on this parameter after 48 hours of culture.

EXAMPLE 2 Compositions According to the Invention A) Care Cream Anti-Aging Eyes - Stearic Acid 1.2% - Antioxidant 0.180% - Glycerin 0.1% - Polymethyl methacrylate 3% - Beeswax 1, 5% - Caffeine 0.180 % - hydrogenated isoparaffin 8% - solvent 8% - triethanolamine 0.070% - emulsifier 2.9% - cetyl alcohol 4% - preservative 0.25% - mono / glyceryl distearate 3% - filler (silica) 1% - Orchis extract 0.1% - biotin 0.05% - water qs 100% B) Anti-aging cream - antioxidant 0.2% - glycerin 7% - carnauba wax 2% - solvent 1% - mono / glyceryl distearate polyethylene glycol stearate (100%) 1% - mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl alcohols, stearyl (12/46/42) 4% - petrolatum 5.5% - preservatives 0.7% - emollients 4% - stabilizer 2% - filler (silica) 2% - orchis extract 0.1% male - biotin 0.1% - soy protein hydrolyzate 0.2% - n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid 0.10 / 0 - Bifidus bacteria lysate 0.2% - e 100% C) Anti-aging night cream This is the anti-aging night cream according to B) in which the lysate of Bifidus bacteria is replaced by water. All the other constituents being kept in identical proportions.5

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, comprising at least, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of an orchid extract and biotin or a derivative of biotin. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of soy protein extract, bifidus lysates, and salicylic acid derivatives. A composition according to claim 2, comprising the combination of an orchid extract, biotin or a derivative thereof, a soy protein extract and a bifidus lysate. The composition of claim 2 comprising the combination of an orchid extract, biotin or a biotin derivative, a soy protein extract and a salicylic acid derivative. . 20 The composition of any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the salicylic acid derivative is 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the orchid extract is a male orchid extract. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the soy protein extract is a soy protein hydrolyzate. 8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the orchid extract, biotin or biotin derivative, and said additional compound (s) are each present at a concentration between 0.001 and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 25 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising at least one additive and / or cosmetic or dermatological active. 10. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for increasing the survival and metabolism of fibroblasts. 11. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for treating aging of the skin, in particular for improving the appearance of the skin, more specifically for improving the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its resistance, elasticity, suppleness, tone, firmness or density, to improve the texture of the skin, especially to obtain a smoother skin, to improve the radiance of the complexion, or to benefit a radiant, energizing or vitalising effect on the skin. 12. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, as an anti-aging care. 13. A cosmetic process for treating the signs of aging of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9. 14. Cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9. 15. The method of claim 14, characterized in that the improvement of the appearance of the skin comprises the improvement of the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its strength, elasticity, flexibility, tone, firmness or still its density, to improve the texture of the skin, in particular to obtain a smoother appearance of the skin, to improve the radiance of the complexion, or to benefit from a radiant, energizing or vitalizing effect on the skin.