FR2984163A1 - Composition, useful e.g. for cleaning the body and conditioning the hair, comprises hydrophobically modified celluloses with a specific hydrophobic group content and cationic surfactants of quaternary ammonium salt type with ester groups - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises one or more hydrophobically modified cellulose with a hydrophobic group content of greater than 0.6 wt.% and one or more cationic surfactants of quaternary ammonium salt type with one or more ester groups. An independent claim is included for conditioning hair or cleaning of the body comprising applying the composition on the keratin materials and leaving the composition for an impact time without rinsing in the presence or absence of heat.

Description

B11-2831EN 1 Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, and a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant containing one or more ester functions. The present invention relates to a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising one or more particular hydrophobically modified celluloses, and one or more particular cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials using such a composition as well as a cosmetic use of said composition. In the hair cosmetic field, it is sought to treat keratin fibers subjected to various external aggressions. Indeed, these fibers can undergo assaults of various origins, such as mechanical aggression, for example related to disentangling or blow drying, or chemical aggression, for example following a coloring or a permanent. These attacks have repercussions on the qualities of the keratinous fiber and can induce a difficult disentangling at the time of the washing of the hair, on dry hair and / or wet hair as well as a degradation of the surface properties of the fibers, which become on the surface not smooth and irregular, especially when the hair is dry. There are care products that can limit these phenomena. These products contain, in general, one or more agents for conditioning keratinous fibers, such as cationic surfactants. However, while improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, these compounds, used in skincare products, are not totally environmentally friendly.

There is therefore a need to develop cosmetic compositions that do not comprise silicone, which are less ecotoxic or even non-ecotoxic, making it possible to condition the hair satisfactorily, or even better, compared to the compositions of the state of the art. . The Applicant has now discovered that, surprisingly, the combination of a particular hydrophobically modified cellulose with at least one particular cationic surfactant made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

These particular celluloses are described in particular in international patent application WO 2006/065848. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for cleaning the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic group (s) (hydrophobization rate) greater than 0.6%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, and one or more cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions.

This particular combination has proved particularly suitable for the care of dry or wet hair, and has improved their cosmetic properties, and in particular to bring greater ease of shaping and more volume, a soft touch and regular, very good properties of flexibility and shine, and a good ease of disentangling. In addition, this care composition is more eco-friendly, that is to say less ecotoxic vis-à-vis the environment. The present invention also relates to a method of conditioning the hair or washing / cleaning the body, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be rinsed or not, applied under the effect of heat or not, and associated or not with chemical and / or mechanical treatments of the hair.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used for conditioning the hair or washing / cleaning the body. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to".

In addition, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more". According to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic group (s) greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, and one or more several cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions. By hydrophobically modified cellulose is meant in the sense of the present invention, a nonionic cellulose modified with one or more hydrophobic groups, and more particularly a nonionic cellulose ether modified with one or more hydrophobic groups. Preferably, the one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses used in the invention comprise a main chain constituted by a nonionic cellulose ether on which is attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from: 1) groups 3 alkoxy-2-hydroxy (C 3 -C 6) alkyl in which the alkoxy moiety is branched or linear and has 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl, 2) C 9 alkyl groups -C30, preferably C10-C22, better still C12-C18, and aryl, arylalkyl and C6-C30 alkylaryl groups. The aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups preferably contain 7, more preferably 8, and even more preferably 10 carbon atoms, up to 22, even more preferably up to 18, and even more preferably up to 16 carbon atoms. , 3) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, said hydrophobically modified cellulose or celluloses do not comprise a non-alkoxylated C 3 -C 8 alkyl group. Examples of alkoxy groups in the 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy (C 3 -C 6) alkyl group are hexyloxy, 2-ethylhexyloxy, octyloxy, cetyloxy and octadecyloxy. Examples of the hydrophobic group of family 2) are especially the decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl, cetyl, octadecyl and methylphenyl groups, better still the dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl and cetyl groups; . The hydrophobic group (s) may or may be attached to the cellulose ether chain via an ether, ester or urethane bond, the ether bond being particularly preferred. In a particularly preferred manner, the hydrophobic group or groups are chosen from: 1 ') 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl groups in which the alkoxy moiety is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from to 20 carbon atoms, 2 ') C 9 -C 30, preferably C 10 -C 22, better still C 12 -C 18, and even more preferably C 12 -C 16, 3') and mixtures thereof, and more preferably those of the family 2 '). As examples of nonionic cellulose ethers constituting the main chain, there may be mentioned hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), methylcellulose (MC), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC), and methylhydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC). Hydroxyethylcellulose is particularly preferred. In the hydrophobically modified cellulose of the invention, all or part of the hydroxyl -OH groups of the cellulose have become -OR groups with R denoting in particular a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl group, or a hydrophobic group as defined herein. -above. The content of the hydrophobic group (s) (or hydrophobization rate) of the hydrophobically modified celluloses of the invention corresponds to the ratio of the total weight of the hydrophobic groups to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, multiplied by 100. content is greater than 0.6% by weight, preferably greater than 0.8% by weight, and more preferably greater than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of hydrophobically modified cellulose. This content is preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of hydrophobically modified cellulose. The hydrophobically modified cellulose (s) used in the invention has a weight average molecular weight of preferably from 100,000 to 2,000,000, more preferably from 200,000 to 1,500,000. and more preferably from 250 000 to 1 000 000. Preferably, the hydrophobically modified cellulose or celluloses used in the invention are chosen from cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses having a content of hydrophobic group (s) greater than 0.6%. in weight. As examples of hydrophobically modified cellulose, mention may be made of the following compounds listed in Table 1, commercially available from HERCULES: Table 1 cellulose (Mw) Hydrophobic groups degree of content in hydrophobic groups (% by weight) hydroxyl substitution ethyl (in mole) Cellulose 1 HEC- Regular 300,000 Cetyl (C16) 3.9 to 4.5 1.1 - 1.2% (ie 4.2 on average) Cellulose 2 HEC- Regular 1,000,000 cetyl (C16 ) 3.9 1.8% Cellulose 3 HEC- Block 1,000,000 Cetyl (C16) 3,4 2% Cellulose 4 HEC- Block 300,000 Mixture C12 and C14 4.1 2.7% Cellulose 5 HEC- Block 300,000 Cetyl (C16) 3.6 2.8-3.3% The compound Cellulose 1 is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US4228,277, using a cetyl halide as reagent, and a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC ) having a suitable molar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution. The compound Cellulose 2 is prepared according to the method described in Examples 1 to 10 of US4228,277, using a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having a suitable degree of molar substitution to hydroxyethyl. The Cellulose 3 compound is prepared according to a method similar to that described in Example 27 of EP1858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.

The compound Cellulose 4 is prepared according to a method similar to that described in Example 27 of EP1858970, using a mixture of epoxide derivatives of dodecane and tetradecane. The Cellulose 5 compound is prepared by a method similar to that described in Example 27 of EP1858970, using a cetyl halide instead of the epoxide. The hydrophobically modified cellulose or celluloses are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. The cationic surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## - (O-Crlir2 (01-1) 1-1) N + (CtElt2 (O1-1) uO) x R23 X R22 (I) in which: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups or C 1 -C 6 dihydroxyalkyl, R 23 is selected from: O - the group R 2 C- (II), - the hydrocarbon groups R 31 -C 1-12, branched, saturated or unsaturated, and - the hydrogen atom R 25 is chosen from: R 28c linear or - the group (Ilbis), - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon groups R 29, and - the hydrogen atom, R 24, R 26 and R 28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, r e t tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1, r 2 + r 1 = 2 r and t 1 + t 2 = 2 t, y is an integer of 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers of 0 at 10, and X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 .

The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, a (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (I) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from: 0 - the group R2C - (II), - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, and - the hydrogen atom - R25 is chosen from: o - the group R28C - (Ilbis), and - the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Examples of the compounds of formula (I) that may be mentioned include salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl dimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification. of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulphate. methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (or behenoyl PGtrimonium chloride according to the INCI nomenclature), for example, proposed by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions contain one or two ester functions. Of the cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions, present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or distearoylethylammonium salts. hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate (or di stearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate according to the INCI nomenclature), and mixtures thereof. The cationic surfactant or surfactants of the quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functional groups are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1. at 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the amount of cationic surfactant (s) of the quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions and the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose (s). (s) ranges from 0.1 to 100, even more preferably from 1 to 20, and more preferably from 1.5 to 10.

The composition may furthermore comprise cationic surfactants other than quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functional groups, such as, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and ammonium salts. quaternary ester comprising no ester function, and mixtures thereof. As quaternary ammonium salts comprising no ester function, mention may be made, for example, of: those corresponding to the following general formula (III): embedded image where R 8 to R 11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of R8 to R11 groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms preferably, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens, the aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl groups. , C 1 -C 30 alkoxy, C 2 -C 6 polyoxyalkylene, C 1 -C 3 alkylamide, C 1 -C 22 alkyl (C 2 -C 22) alkylamido, C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyls ulfates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates. Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred on the one hand. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of the following formula (IV): R13 7CH 2 CH 2 -N (R 15) -CO-R 2 N N NR 14 (IV) in which R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 13 represents a hydrogen atom , a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulphates, alkyl (Ci-C4) - or alkyl ( Ci-C4 alkyl) arylsulphonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, sold under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO, - quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (V) below: R17 R19 1 1 R16-N- (C1- 12) wherein R 16 denotes an alkyl group having about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is chosen from hydrogen or a group alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2) 3 -N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 1sa), R 16a, Rua, R 18a, R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl - or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, especially methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), among cationic surfactants other than quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, 2+ 2X- (V) present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or their mixtures. When the composition contains one or more additional cationic surfactants other than cationic surfactants of quaternary ammonium salts with ester function (s), their content preferably varies from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0, 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may further comprise fatty alcohols. These fatty alcohols are non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated. They can be solid or liquid.

The fatty alcohols that can be used in the invention preferably comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 12 to 25 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols that can be used in the invention can be saturated or unsaturated. Saturated fatty alcohols are linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. By way of examples, mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol and mixtures thereof. The unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred. The fatty alcohols that can be used in the invention are preferably chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols as described above, and mixtures thereof. In one variant of the invention, the fatty alcohols are liquid. By liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).

The preferred liquid fatty alcohols are oleyl alcohol and 2-octyl-1-dodecanol. Even more preferentially, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol. When the fatty alcohol (s) are present in the composition according to the invention, their preferential proportion ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 6% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also include one or more vegetable oils.

Examples of vegetable oils that may be mentioned include triglyceride oils of plant origin, such as, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, avocado, argan, rice bran, olive, rapeseed, copra, wheat germ, flax, sweet almond, safflower, walnut bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, shea butter, palm, cotton, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, camelina, tamanu, lemon, babassu, pracaxi, and their mixtures.

Particularly preferred vegetable oil (s) include apricot oil, camelina oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran, olive oil and their mixtures.

When the vegetable oil or the vegetable oils is or are present, their amount is preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, still more preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.001 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. By "anhydrous" is meant a composition without added water, that is to say a composition whose water possibly present comes only from the water of crystallization or adsorption of the raw materials. In any case, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5% by weight of water and better still less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous, and comprises at least 30% by weight of water, and preferably at least 45% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. When the composition of the invention is aqueous, its pH is generally between 2 and 9, and in particular between 3 and 8. Preferably, the pH is less than 7. Even more preferentially, it ranges from 3 to 6.

It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in cosmetics for this type of application or even using conventional buffer systems. Among the acidifying agents, there may be mentioned, for example, the organic acids already mentioned above or the mineral acids. By "mineral acid" is meant any acid derived from a mineral compound. Among the mineral acids, mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulphonic acids and nitric acid. It will be possible to use inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of the following formula: Ra, Rb NWN 'Re Rd in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl group, Ra, Rb, R, and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl. Preferably, the pH adjusting agents may be chosen from alkaline agents such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino 2-methyl-1-propanol or the acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid. The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and liposoluble sunscreens, silicones and in particular aminated polydimethylsiloxanes or non-amines, pearlescent agents and opacifiers, sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing and / or regrowing hair, penetrating agents, thickening agents particularly the polymeric thickeners different from the hydrophobically modified celluloses of the invention, cationic polymers, solid fatty esters, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, peptizers and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The compositions according to the invention may be present, in a nonlimiting manner, in the form of conditioners shampoos and conditioners, body washings, in particular shower gel. The present invention also relates to a method of conditioning the hair or washing / cleaning the body, which comprises applying to the keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as described above. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing. When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. Whether rinsed or non-rinsed mode, the application of the composition can be done with or without heat. The heater may be a hair dryer, a helmet, a round or flat iron. The heating temperature can be between 40 and 220 ° C. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the conditioning of the hair or the washing / cleansing of the body, such as, for example, as a conditioner.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES In the following examples, all the amounts are indicated in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1: The rinsed after-shampoo composition according to the following invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

Ingredients Quantity in% by weight Cellulose 1 (1) 0.5 Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (2) 3.5 MA 2 -octyl-1-dodecanol 2 Cetearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 3.5 Apricot kernel oil (3) 0.5 Camelina oil (4) 0.5 Corn starch (5) 0.5 Tocopherols / Soybean oil (50/50 by weight) (6) 0 5 Caprylyl glycol 0.2 Benzoic acid 0, Perfume 0.4 Water qs 100 MA: active material (1) as defined in Table 1 (2) sold under the trade name QUARTAMIN BTC 131 by the company KAO, 70% by weight of active ingredient. (3) sold under the trade name Apricot Kernel Oil by the company Desert Whale (4) sold under the trade name Refined Gold of Pleasure Oil by the company Aharushkar Shamn (5) sold under the trade name C * GEL 04201 by the company Cargill (6) sold under the trade name COVI OX T 50 C by the company Cognis. Example 2: Another rinsed conditioner composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

Ingredients Quantity in% by weight Cellulose 1 (1) 0.5 Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate (2) 2.8 MA 2 -octyl-1-dodecanol 2 Cetearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 3.5 Core oil apricot (3) 0.5 Camelina oil (4) 0.5 Corn starch (5) 0.5 Tocopherols / Soybean oil (50/50 by weight) (6) 0 5 Caprylyl glycol 0.2 Benzoic acid 0 Perfume 0.4 Water qs 100 MA: active material (1) as defined in Table 1 (2) sold under the name Dehyquart F 175 by the company Cognis, at 70% by weight of active ingredient. (3) sold under the trade name Apricot Kernel Oil by the company Desert Whale (4) sold under the trade name Refined Gold of Pleasure Oil by the company Aharushkar Shamn (5) sold under the trade name C * Gel 04201 by the company Cargill (6) sold under the trade name COVI OX T 50 C by the company COGNIS One expert found that the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are stable and have a satisfactory viscosity to be applied to hair. The compositions of Examples 1 and 2 were applied to locks of hair.

They have good qualities of use such as application, elimination and rinsability. The cosmetic properties of the treated hair are very good. We obtain a very easy disentangling, a volume effect and easy formatting.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic composition for cleaning the body or for conditioning hair comprising one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic group (s) greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, and one or more cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose or celluloses having a content of hydrophobic group (s) greater than 0.6% by weight have a hydrophobic group (s) content (s). greater than 0.8% by weight, more preferably greater than 1% by weight, and preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the or hydrophobically modified celluloses comprise a main chain consisting of a nonionic cellulose ether on which is attached or (s) one or more hydrophobic groups selected from: 1 ) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy (C 3 -C 6) alkyl groups in which the alkoxy moiety is branched or linear and has 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl, 2) C 9 -C 30, preferably C 10 -C 22, better still C 12 -C 18, and C 6 -C 30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl, and mixtures thereof, 4. Composition according to Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose or celluloses do not comprise a non-alkoxylated C 3 -C 8 alkyl group. 5. Composition according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the hydrophobic group or groups are chosen from: 1 ') 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl groups in which the alkoxy moiety is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms, 2 ') C 9 -C 30, preferably C 10 -C 22, better still C 12 -C 18, and even more preferentially C 12 -C 16 alkyl groups; ) and their mixtures. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose or celluloses having a content of hydrophobic group (s) greater than 0.6% by weight have a weight average molecular weight of from 100,000 to 2,000,000, better from 200,000 to 1,500,000, and even more preferably from 250,000 to 1,000,000. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses are chosen from cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses having a content of hydrophobic group (s) greater than 0.6% by weight. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose or celluloses are present in proportions of 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, better from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant or surfactants of quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions are chosen from those of formula (I) below: O (CsH2s0) R25 R24 C- (O-Crlir2 (01-1) 1-1) N + (CtE1t2 (01-1) t1 O) x R23 X R22 (I) wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups C1-C6, R23 is chosen from: o - the R2C- (II) group, - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based R 27 groups, and - the atom of hydrogen, R25 is chosen from: o - the group R28C (Ilbis), - saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, and - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers of 2 to 6, r1 and t1, identical or different, equal to 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer of 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant or surfactants of quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions are chosen from behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, and their mixtures. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactants or cationic agents of the quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions are present in proportions ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight. more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the amount of cationic surfactant (s) cationic (s) of quaternary ammonium salt type containing one or more ester functions and the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose (s) ranges from 0.1 to 100, more preferably from 1 to 20, more preferably from 1.5 to 10. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and still more preferably from 12 to 25 carbon atoms. carbon atoms. 14. Composition according to Claim 12, characterized in that the fatty alcohol or alcohols are chosen from isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl-octanol and 2-hexyl-1-decanol. 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl alcohol), linoleic alcohol (or linoleyl alcohol), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl alcohol), undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably 2 octyl-1-dodecanol. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more vegetable oils. 16. A method of conditioning the hair or washing / cleaning the body, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, and then to perform or not rinse after a possible exposure time, with or without heat. 17. Use of the cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 15 for the conditioning of the hair or the washing / cleansing of the body.