FR2976488A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for treating, coloring, bleaching or smoothing the keratin fibers such as human keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises pumice stone particles, starches, solid fatty alcohols and fatty esters - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises pumice stone particles, one or more starches, one or more solid fatty alcohols and one or more fatty esters. Independent claims are included for: (1) treating keratin fibers such as human keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying the cosmetic composition to the fibers, optionally followed by rinsing; and (2) a kit comprising cosmetic composition-A comprising pumice stone particles and a cosmetic composition-B comprising one or more starches, solid fatty alcohols or fatty esters.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition and a method for treating keratinous fibers. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The hair can be altered by chemical treatments such as coloring, permanent, or by mechanical stresses such as detangling, blow drying. The mechanical, morphological and physicochemical properties of the surface of the hair, and in particular of the cuticle, external layer of the hair with a scale structure, are modified. In particular, during these treatments or solicitations, the scales of the cuticle rise and see their edges, normally regular, become serrated. However, the cosmetic effects provided by a hair care treatment are dependent on the surface properties of the fiber. During a treatment treatment for example, the degradations of the surface properties of the cuticle will lead to a heterogeneous deposition of care assets contained in conditioners. In addition, these changes in the morphology of the surface of the scales affect sensory properties, leading to a smoother fiber feel and more difficult disentangling. For many years, we have been looking for a way to deposit or penetrate care ingredients homogeneously on and in the fiber and make these residual deposits to several shampoos. It is known to treat damaged hair by applying thereto a care product comprising, for example, specific polymers such as silicones or cationically charged polymers. However, the improvement of the surface of the hair thus treated is only temporary, because once rid of the care product, for example after one or more washings, the hair returns to its original state.

It is also known from WO 2009/156668 a method comprising a step of abrasion of the hair using solid particles and a step of applying a cosmetic product. However, this process does not lead to satisfactory results and remains to be improved.

There is a need for compositions, methods and kits for sustainably treating keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, in particular those damaged on the surface. The invention aims, among other things, to meet this need and it achieves this through a composition comprising at least pumice particles, at least one starch and at least one particular surfactant. A first subject of the invention is therefore a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition comprising: at least pumice particles (i), one or more starches (ii), one or more solid fatty alcohols (iii), and or more fatty esters (iv).

A second subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, such as human keratinous fibers, and especially the hair, comprising at least one step of bringing the hair into contact with a composition as defined above.

The invention finally relates to kits and a use of said composition.

As is apparent from the examples below, the treatment of keratinous fibers, and especially the hair, with a composition according to the invention or the method according to the invention makes it possible to provide care in a homogeneous manner to the keratin fiber without alter it by standardizing the deposit of the agents. This gives an excellent smoothing of keratinous fibers, a controlled volume of the hair. The hair is more textured and corporeal. The composition according to the invention and the method provide fine hair mass and volume control. These effects are all the more remarkable as the hair is sensitized.

In addition, it turns out that the composition according to the invention shows very good qualities of use, that is to say that it applies and rinses easily. Finally, she leaves the hair, after rinsing very soft to the touch. These effects are durable and are particularly resistant to several shampoos. The method can also be advantageously used to smooth keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair. The invention may also make it possible to prepare the keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, for a capillary after-treatment such as the application of a conditioner, a color, a perm, a hair-relaxing product, a hair conditioner or a hair conditioner. a fading product or the like. The treatment of the hair which is operated by implementing the invention may be more or less important, depending on the initial state of the hair and / or the desired result. This treatment may in particular have the effect of including an elimination of heterogeneities on the surface of the hair, especially via an action that can be described as abrasive and, therefore, homogenize the outer surface of the hair. This type of abrasion can be relatively soft and / or of short duration, so as to avoid breakage of the hair, during treatment or subsequent mechanical stresses such as styling, for example. Thanks to the invention, the hair can be visibly smoother and the effect of the treatment is durable. In what follows the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Particles of pumice stone The pumice stone, whose name INCI name is pumice, is of volcanic origin. It is formed at temperatures of about 500 to 600 ° C from the lava projected into the air which cools in its fall and whose degassing causes the formation of bubbles, leading to low density and high porosity. Pumice is made of fragments of rhyolite, dacite or andesite. It is considered a glass because it does not have a crystalline structure.

Pumice particles are abrasive solid particles. In particular, they may have a hardness greater than or equal to that of hair, ranging from 3 to 10 Mohs, or even greater than or equal to 4, for example greater than or equal to 5, and in particular ranging from 5 to 5.5 Mohs scale.

The pumice particles may have a volume average diameter less than or equal to 500 μm, preferably between 50 and 500 μm, better still less than or equal to 300 μm, for example between 100 and 300 μm. Depending on the range of particles used, the average diameter by volume can be determined using sieves or laser particle size.

It may especially be a powder of pumice sold under the name of PONCE 0 '/ 2 D by EYRAUD, of average diameter D [4.3] (volume-weighted average diameter) of about 140 pm measured by laser diffraction. It may also be a decontaminated pumice powder marketed under the reference 0-D PONCE by EYRAUD, with a volume average diameter of less than 125 μm, or a pumice powder sold under the reference 2B D by EYRAUD Company, with a volume average diameter ranging from 100 to 500 μm. The composition according to the invention may comprise particles of pumice in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, especially from 5% to 35% by weight, in particular from 10% to 30% by weight, for example from 15% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 18% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The starch (s) usable in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the plant origin of the starches.

The starch molecules used in the present invention may be from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits. Thus, the starch (s) may come from a vegetable source selected from corn, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, tapioca and sorghum. The starch is preferably from the potato. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles ranges from 3 to 100 microns. The starches used in the composition of the invention may be chemically modified by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, heat treatments. More particularly, these reactions can be carried out as follows: - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum); oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite); crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups); alkaline esterification for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), hydroxyalkyl C1-C6 (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.

In particular, it is possible to obtain, by means of crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) 2 type), diamidon phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) -O-Am type). or even triamidon (of the type Am-O-PO- (O-Am) 2) or mixtures thereof.

X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline. The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

Diamidon phosphates or diamidon phosphate-rich compounds such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropylated gelatinized hydroxypropyl diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) are preferably used. PREJEL 200 (glyatinized acetylated manioc diamidon phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA by NATIONAL STARCH (hydroxypropylated cornstarch phosphate gelatinized). According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type. The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds of the following formulas: ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## -O- (CH2), N \ R "

R 'R "~ N St-O-CH 2 CH-000M R' R" ~ N St-O-CH-CH 2 COOM (IV) formulas in which: St-O represents a starch molecule, R, identical or different , represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R ', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a group -000H, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3, M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH 4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine, R "represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 These compounds are described in US Pat. Nos. 5,455,340 and 4,017,460, which are incorporated by reference. The starches of formula (I) or (II) are especially used. 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, that is to say the starches of formula (I) or (II) in which R, R ', R "and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. Particularly suitable are potato starch modified with sodium-neutralized 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, marketed under the reference STRUCTURE SOLANACE by NATIONAL STARCH company. Preferably, the starch (s) used in the invention are chemically modified.

Generally, said starch (s) represent (s) from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, by weight of the total weight of the composition. Preferably the weight ratio between the pumice particles described above, and the starch or starches also described above is between 0.5 and better between 1 and 10 and even more preferably between 2 and 7.

The compositions of the invention comprise one or more solid fatty alcohols at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure.

By solid fatty alcohol is meant in the sense of the present invention, any saturated or unsaturated alcohol, linear or branched having at least 8 carbon atoms and having a viscosity measured with a rheometer (R600 Rheometer for example) with a shear rate of 1 s-1 greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C and / or having a melting temperature above 40 ° C.

The solid fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated radical containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30; R preferably denotes a C8-C40 alkyl group, preferably a C12-C24 alkyl or a C8-C40 alkenyl group, preferably a C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups. By way of example, mention may be made of cetyl, stearyl, behenic, arachidonic and erucic alcohols and mixtures thereof. Preferably R is a linear saturated radical.

Preferably, the fatty alcohols used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol. The solid fatty alcohol or alcohols used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight. and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty esters. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty ester" means an ester resulting from the reaction of fatty alcohol and / or fatty acid, and preferably of fatty acid and fatty alcohol, and more particularly of saturated fatty acid, and saturated mono-fatty alcohol.

By fatty alcohol or fatty acid, compounds comprising at least one acyclic hydrocarbon chain linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising at least 9 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 50 carbon atoms. The fatty esters of the invention can be liquid or solid at 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty esters of the invention are derived from fatty acids and monoalcohols or polyols, these monoalcohols or polyols containing from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and preferably from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. In a first variant, the fatty esters are esters of fatty acids and of alcohols chosen from monohydric alcohols or polyols, these alcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, mono-, di or triglycerides of fatty acid (s) may be mentioned in particular as esters of this type. Even more preferentially in this family, the alcohols are monoalcohols.

In a second variant, the fatty esters used in the composition of the invention are preferably saturated carboxylic acid esters having at least 9 carbon atoms, and preferably saturated fatty alcohols containing at least 9 carbon atoms. Saturated acids or monoalcohols may be linear or branched. The carboxylic acids, preferably saturated, preferably contain from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 34 carbon atoms. They can be optionally hydroxylated. The saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably contain from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 34 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty esters of this variant are chosen from myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristates, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates, cetyl and stearyl myristyl stearates, behenyl behenate, optionally hydroxylated esters of C26-C34 and of C26-C34 monohydric alcohols; NB are esters present in vegetable waxes), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty esters of the invention are solid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa). Preferably, the fatty esters of the invention are those of the second variant. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.001 to 10%, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight of fatty ester (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other components of the composition In addition to the pumice particles, the starch (s) and the solid fatty alcohol (s) and the fatty ester (s), the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additives. The composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more surfactants such as anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-20178). Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups which can range from 2 to 50 in particular. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, and condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols can also be mentioned; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyethoxylated oils preferably having from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8-20) alkylbetals, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3-8 alkyl) betaines or (C 8-20 alkyl) amido (C 6-8 alkyl) sulfobetaines. . Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines optionally quaternized utilizable, as defined above, there may also be mentioned compounds of respective structures (Al) and (A2): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) In which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (A2) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX', B 'represents - (CH2) Z Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'represents the group - CH 2 -OOH, CH 2 -COO 2 ', -CH 2 CH 2 -OOOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom, Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ', -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH -SO3Z ', Z' represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine. Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-O00H acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoampho dipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate. Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 3-20 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 3-20 alkyl) amido (C 3 -C 3 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2, PO2-POH, PO-. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, al kylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoesters and polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactosideuronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether acid salts -carboxylic; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of alkyl monoesters at 06.24 and of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids may be chosen from polyglycoside-citrates of alkyl at 06.24, polyglycoside-tartrates of alkyl at 06.24 and polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates of C6-24 alkyl. When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1 propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. The optionally present anionic surfactants are preferably mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulfate function.

As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and the alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5%) sold, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen from the following quaternary ammonium salts: the quaternary ammonium salts of the following formula (A3): ## STR1 ## )

in which the radicals R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl or a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of R8 to R10 radicals; comprising an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 25 carbon atoms, the aliphatic radicals possibly comprising heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C 2 -C 6), alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22) alkyl acetate, hydroxyalkyl, with about 1 at 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 and more preferably from 16 to 25 carbon atoms; X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides such as chloride, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6) alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl sulphonates such as methosulphate. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), it is preferred to use alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, or the salts oleocetyl dimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium.

the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of the following formula (A4): + R13 / (A4)

wherein R12 is alkenyl or alkyl having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates , (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1- / CH2CH2 N (R15) -CO-R12 N R14 X C4) aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (A5) below: wherein R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R17 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH2) 3 N + (R16a) (R17a) (R18a); R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75); quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of the following formula (A6): ## STR2 ## (R5) Wherein R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups, R23 is selected from: o - the following formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R22 is selected from: the group R2s c- - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based K27 groups, - the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: - the group o R28 C - - the R29 hydrocarbon groups C1- C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups;

r, s and t, identical or different, are integers equal to 2 to 6, r1 and t1 identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphate, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulphonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (A6) are used more particularly in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2, - R 23 is chosen from: o - the group R 20 - the methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, R 19 is chosen from: - The group I) l R28 c - the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (A6) include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or with transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulphate. methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.5 The composition according to the invention can for example, containing a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, proposed by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 may be used. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride. , dipalmitoyl ethylhydroxyethyl ammonium methosulphate, and mixtures thereof.

The surfactant (s) may be present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, when present, the amount of the anionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when present, the amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, when they are present, the nonionic surfactant (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when present, the amount of the cationic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise the additives that are conventional in the field, for example those chosen from the non-exhaustive list, such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestering agents, softeners, antifoam agents and agents. moisturizers, emollients, alkalizing agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct or oxidation dyes, perfumes, peptizers, preservatives, vitamins, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, hair loss agents , non-polymeric thickeners such as fatty amides, fatty ethers, fatty alcohols, silicas, clays.

The adjuvants mentioned above are generally present in an amount, for each of them, between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more conditioning agents different from the compounds (i) to (iv) of the invention.

When the composition contains at least one conditioning agent, it may be chosen from synthetic oils such as polyolefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated gums, silicones, mineral or animal oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, cationic polymers and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one additional conditioning agent.

Silicones can be volatile or not. They can be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric. They can be organomodified or not. Of the silicones, silicones with quaternized or non-quaternized amino groups are particularly preferred. According to the invention, the term "silicone with quaternary ammonium groups" means any silicone comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups. These quaternary ammonium groups may be linked in the alpha or omega position or in the form of side groups. They can be linked directly to the polysiloxane backbone or can be carried by hydrocarbon chains.

According to the invention, the term "silicone" means, in accordance with the general acceptance, any polymer having a structure based on the alternation of silicon and oxygen atoms, connected to each other by so-called siloxane link bonds (-Si -O-Si-), and further characterized by the existence of silicon-carbon bonds. These silicones, or polysiloxanes, are generally obtained by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes. The most common hydrocarbon radicals carried by the silicon atoms are lower alkyl radicals, in particular methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl radicals. The silicones with quaternary ammonium groups of the present invention are for example chosen from compounds corresponding to the following general formulas: ## STR2 ## 1 (A7) Si-O-Si-R2 ## STR1 ## wherein R 1-Si-O + Si-O] [Si-O-Si-R 1] Si-O CH 3 CH 3 Si-O R-CH 3 Si-O 1 CH 3 CH 3 Si-R 2 n CH 3 q (A 9) CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 R 3 - Si-O [Si-O] [Si-O] [SO] Wherein R 1, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl or phenyl group; R2, identical or different, represents -C, H2c O- (C2H4O) a- (C3H6O) b- (PO3H) d -R5 or -C, H2c-O- (C4H $ O) a- (PO3H) d -R5 ; R5, which may be identical or different, is chosen from the following groups: R6 [Cf H (2f-g) (OH) g] N -R8 A R7 the R8 radicals independently represent a C1-22 alkyl radical or C2 alkenyl radical; -22, linear or branched, and optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or represent a group ChH2hZCOR9; R6, R7 and R9, which may be identical or different, represent linear or branched C2-22 alkyl or C2-22 alkenyl radicals, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or R7 may form with a part of R8 a heterocycle (ring with at least one heteroatom such as for example N, O, P), the hetero ring is especially an imidazoline. Preferably R6 and R7 denote a C1-C6 alkyl radical and more particularly methyl, R9 preferably denotes a radical chosen from C8-C18 alkyl and C8-C18 alkenyl and in particular a cocoyl radical. m varies from 0 to 20; n varies from 0 to 500; p varies from 1 to 50; gvarie from 0 to 20; r varies from 1 to 20; a varies from 0 to 50; b varies from 0 to 50; cvarie de0 to 4; d denotes 0 or 1 f varies from 0 to 4, g varies from 0 to 2, preferably is equal to 1 h varies from 1 to 4, preferably is equal to 3 Z represents an oxygen atom or NH, A- represents a monovalent organic or inorganic anion such as a halide (eg chloride, bromide), a sulfate, or a carboxylate (eg acetate, lactate, citrate). Preferably, the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (A8) or (A9) are used.

Preferably, the quaternary ammonium silicones corresponding to the general formula (A9) as defined above, and more particularly, those corresponding to the general formula (A9) in which at least one of, and preferably all the following conditions are satisfied: c is 0; d is 0; a is zero; b is 1 nvariety from 0 to 100; q is 0; fvaut3; g is 1; R6 and R7 denote methyl; R8 denotes a C10-C22 alkyl radical.

Among the silicones of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL QUAT 3272, ABIL B 9905, ABIL QUAT 3474 and ABIL K 3270 by the company LIPO FRANCE under the trade names SILQUAT Q-100 , SILQUAT Q-200 WS, SILQUAT AX, SILQUAT AC, SILQUAT AD and SILQUAT AM all manufactured by SILTECH, by OSI under the name MAGNASOFT EXHAUST and SILSOFT C-880 and by UCIB under the names PECOSIL 14- PQ and PECOSIL 36-PQ (manufacturer PHOENIX CHEMICAL).

These silicones are in particular described in patents EP 530 974, DE 3719086, DE 3705121, EP 617 607 and EP 714 654. According to one embodiment, the silicone with quaternary ammonium groups is of formula (A9). Even more preferentially, the quaternary silicone is the compound referenced CTFA (non-INCI) under the name Quaternium-80. The silicones with quaternary ammonium groups used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of aqueous solutions, or optionally in the form of dispersions or emulsions in water.

The content of conditioning agents in the composition may range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The detergent compositions according to the invention have a final pH generally between 3 and 8. Preferably, this pH is between 4 and 7.5. Adjusting the pH to the desired value can be done conventionally by adding a base (organic or inorganic) in the composition, for example sodium hydroxide, ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly) amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or propanediamine-1,3, or by adding a mineral or organic acid, preferably citric acid or hydrochloric acid.

The composition according to the invention optionally further comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents such as lower C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol or tert-butanol, n-butanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol or glycerol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of water and more particularly from 50 to 90% by weight and still more preferably from 70 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example linear or branched monoalcohols, preferably saturated, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol (2 methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture. The organic solvent or solvents may be present in proportions of, for example, between 1 and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately.

Qalenic Form The composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms such as a lotion, a shampoo, a gel, a cream, a wax or a paste. When the composition according to the invention is in liquid form, such as a lotion for example, it is in the form of a dispersion. The composition may be packaged in any type of applicator container or not. The container may contain a ball or a member allowing in particular to homogenize the composition according to the invention before application thereof on the keratin fibers, such as the hair. The container containing the composition may have a capacity greater than or equal to 15 ml, especially greater than or equal to 50 ml, or even 100 ml, especially greater than or equal to 150 ml, for example between 15 ml and 500 ml. The composition can be applied to any type of support, such as, for example, woven, non-woven supports, paper or flexible polymer. The composition according to the invention can impregnate a wipe. The composition according to the invention may be introduced into a stream of vector fluid, and be projected onto the hair. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be contained in a reservoir of a comb or a brush having, for example, orifices at the base of the teeth or bristles making it possible to bring the product and the apply to hair, such as those described in WO 2009/156668. The composition according to the invention as defined above may be as it is or may result from mixing before use of a first composition comprising particles of pumice; and a second composition comprising one or more starches and one or more solid fatty alcohols and one or more fatty esters. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may result from mixing on the keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair of the two previously defined compositions, via a sequential application.

Treatment method Preferably, this unique composition is the composition according to the invention as defined above. The invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair consisting in applying to the dry or moist keratinous fibers a composition as defined above, then optionally in rinsing. The treatment, for example abrasion, of the keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, may take place immediately after the application of the composition to the hair, for example in a period of less than one hour, in particular less than 30 minutes, or even 10 minutes after the application of the composition on the hair. A rinsing of the fibers, when it takes place, can intervene quickly after treatment, for example abrasion, of the fibers. The time between the application of the composition and rinsing may for example be less than 4 hours, especially less than 1 hour, for example less than 20 minutes. In general, this rinsing is carried out immediately after the treatment. The hair treatment step can be performed by rubbing the hair with bare hands or by interposing at least one surface between the hands and hair loaded with composition, for example a wipe or towel, glove or the like. The treatment can be carried out otherwise than by means of a comb or a brush. Hair treatment can for example be performed using at least one surface set in motion, vibration or rotation in particular, by a mechanized system.

The treatment with the aid of the composition may be carried out, for example, by hand, wick by wick, in two movements: a first movement called "tangential", that is to say substantially along the hair, for example from the root to the tip, and a second so-called "shear" movement, that is, substantially orthogonal to the hair, in a direction transverse thereto. The two movements can be repeated several times, for example at least five times, for example ten times. Alternatively, only one of the aforementioned movements can be performed and possibly repeated several times. The treatment time using the composition according to the invention may depend for example on the desired intensity of the abrasion and the state of the keratinous fiber, and in particular the hair. The process according to the invention may comprise two treatment stages using two compositions successively applied, each comprising particles of pumice stone according to the invention, the mean volume diameters or the hardness of the pumice particles in accordance with the invention. the invention of the two compositions being different. A single vial may contain both separately packaged compositions, or two different vials may each contain a composition.

Another mode of packaging may consist of a bottle containing a base composition devoid of pumice particles in accordance with the invention, which are packaged separately, for example in at least two separate compartments, depending on their particle size or their size. hardness. In the latter case, the user chooses before the treatment the pumice particles according to the invention to be mixed with the base composition to form the first composition, the mixing being carried out by the user or within the vial. The user can, after the first treatment, carry out a second treatment by mixing this time other particles of pumice stone in accordance with the invention with the base composition to form the second composition. Rinsing can be done between and / or after both treatments. The treatment process can be carried out after a step of characterizing the keratinous fiber, and in particular the hair, for example by means of a visual examination with the naked eye or under an enlarging device or by way of instrumental, for example by recording the sound produced by moving a comb in the hair using a sound level meter or by optically determining the shine of the hair. The characterization of the fiber can still involve a chemical reagent applied to a sample of the fiber. The method according to the invention may comprise the prior step of rinsing the keratin fibers before application of the composition. The method according to the invention may comprise the step of combing and / or rinsing the keratinous fibers after application of the composition. Rinsing can be done with water. The presence of surfactants in the composition makes it possible in particular to eliminate by emulsification the composition according to the invention. The method according to the invention may also comprise the step of heating the keratinous fibers before or during the contacting with the composition, for example at a temperature of between 40 ° C. and 250 ° C., in particular between 60 ° C. and 220 ° C. This can in particular increase the effectiveness of the treatment. It is also possible to heat the keratin fibers after the treatment so as to shape them, for example by performing a blow-dry. The heating of the hair may for example be carried out by means of an iron, a liquid water / steam mixture or by means of a heating helmet. The keratin fibers may be dried totally or partially.

Application of a treatment product The method according to the invention may further comprise the step of applying, for example before or after treatment with the aid of the compositions according to the invention, another treatment product on keratinous fibers. . The treatment product may be, for example, a cosmetic product, in particular a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers, in particular the hair. The treatment product may for example be chosen from the following products, this list not being limiting: the products intended to modify the mechanical properties of the hair, in particular comprising a reducing agent, such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, cysteine sulfites, trihydroxymethyl phosphine, or an oxidant, such as H 2 O 2, persulfate or an alkaline hydroxide at a very high pH, the products restructuring the interior of the hair, for example containing an ionene, a protein, a hydroxy acid or a reactive compound , especially a formalin generator, a silane and direct dyes or oxidation. The treatment product may be applied prior to treatment with the composition according to the invention and may for example help to protect the hair during it, in particular to avoid excessive abrasion. The treatment product is preferably applied after application of the composition according to the invention. Thus, according to one embodiment, the method according to the invention may comprise an additional step consisting in subjecting the treated hair to a post-treatment, the post-treatment being chosen from the application of a conditioner, a permanent, a relaxer, a product of coloring or discoloration of hair. Processing kits The subject of the invention is, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a kit for treating keratinous fibers and in particular the hair comprising: a cosmetic composition A comprising particles of pumice and a composition B comprising one or more starches, and one or more solid fatty alcohols and one or more fatty esters.

The subject of the invention is, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a kit for treating keratinous fibers and in particular hair comprising: a composition or a set of compositions according to the invention as defined above, and a support comprising instructions for the use of the composition on keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, for example in order to carry out an abrasion of the hair. The kit may further comprise a composition for post-treatment of keratinous fibers and in particular hair. The post-treatment composition may comprise one or more of the following cosmetic active ingredients: a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for coloring or bleaching keratinous fibers and in particular hair. The post-treatment product may for example be chosen from those described above. The invention finally relates to the use of the composition as defined above for smoothing keratinous fibers, especially the hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES The concentrations are given in grams of active ingredient per 100 g of composition. EXAMPLE 1 The post-shampoo composition was prepared for rinsing: My stearyl alcohol (LANETTE 18, marketed 2 by the company COGNIS) Candelilla containing 0.4 fatty esters according to the invention (CANDELILLA WAX SP 75, sold by the company STRAHL & PITSCH) Pumice: pumice stone natural silicate (<200 microns, hardness 5.5 Mohs) (Pumice 0 '/ 2 Decontaminated D proposed by EYRAUD) Methyl alkyl alkylamidoethyl 2,55 imidazolinium methosulphate dissolved in 75% propylene glycol MA (QUATERNIUM-87) (VARISOFT W 575 PG, sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) Hydroxypropylated cornstarch 5 , 28 pregelatinized (Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) (STRUCTURE ZEA, marketed by the company AKZO NOBEL) Polydimethylsiloxane containing 1.48 aminoethylaminopropyl groups, with methoxy and / or hydroxy function and alpha-omega ga silanols in cationic aqueous emulsion with 60% MA (DOW CORNING 2-8299 CATIONIC EMULSION from Dow Corning) Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride in 1.58 solution in a water / isopropanol mixture (GENAMIN KDMP, marketed by CLARIANT) Glycerol Caprylyl glycol 0.6 Perfume qs Water QS 100 10 g of this composition were applied to hair washed with shampoo, rinsed and wrung out. The application is wick by wick in two movements: a first movement called "tangential" and a second movement called "shear". Both movements are repeated 10 times. The hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow drying. The composition according to the invention has shown very good use qualities (easy application, easy rinsability).

The results show that wet hair is flexible and individualized. The dried hair is soft, smooth to the touch and visually (no frizz), shiny and individualized.

EXAMPLE 2

The post-shampoo composition was prepared to rinse: My stearyl alcohol (LANETTE 18, marketed 2 by the company COGNIS) Candelilla wax containing 0.4 fatty esters according to the invention (CANDELILLA WAX SP 75, marketed by the company STRAHL & PITSCH) Pumice: Pumice stone natural silicate (<200 15 microns, hardness 5.5 Mohs) (Pumice 0 '/ 2 D decontaminated proposed by EYRAUD) 34 methyl alkyl alkylamidoethyl imidazolinium methosulfate in solution in propylene glycol 2, 55 to 75% MA (QUATERNIUM-87) (VARISOFT W 575 PG, marketed by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) Phosphate of hydroxypropylated cornstarch 5.28 pregelatinized (Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) (STRUCTURE ZEA, marketed by the company AKZO NOBEL) Polydimethylsiloxane with 1,48 aminoethylaminopropyl groups, with methoxy and / or hydroxy function and alpha-omega silanols in aqueous cationic emulsion at 60% MA (Dow Corning 2-8299 Cationic Emulsion from Dow Corning) Chlo Behenyl trimethylammonium chloride in 1.58 solution in a water / isopropanol mixture (GENAMIN KDMP, sold by the company CLARIANT) Glycerol 2 Caprylyl glycol 0.6 Perfume qs Water QS 100 EXAMPLE 3 - Preparation of the conditioner composition to rinse:% MA Stearyl alcohol (LANETTE 18, marketed 1 by the company COGNIS) 35 Candelilla wax containing 0.4 fatty esters according to the invention (CANDELILLA WAX SP 75, sold by the company STRAHL & PITSCH) Pumice: Pierre natural silicate pumice (<200 microns, 5.5 Mohs hardness) (Decontaminated Pumice 0 '/ 2 D proposed by EYRAUD) Methyl alkyl alkylamidoethyl 2,55 imidazolinium methosulphate dissolved in 75% propylene glycol MA (QUATERNIUM-87 ) (VARISOFT W 575 PG, sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) amphoteric starch starch 86% of 3.44 MA (STRUCTURE SOLANACE, marketed by the company AKZO NOBEL) Amodimethicone in non-ionic 0.88 aqueous emulsion % d MA (SME 253 of MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) Behenyl trimethylammonium chloride in 0.79 solution in a water / isopropanol mixture (GENAMIN KDMP, sold by the company CLARIANT) HEXADIMETHRINE CHLORIDE 0.25 Perfume, preservatives qs Water gs100% EXAMPLE 4 The shampoo composition to be rinsed is prepared as follows:% MA stearyl alcohol (LANETTE 18, marketed 1 by the company COGNIS) 36 Candelilla wax containing 0.4 fatty esters according to the invention (CANDELILLA WAX SP 75, marketed by the company STRAHL & PITSCH) Pumice: Pumice stone natural silicate (<200 20 microns, hardness 5.5 Mohs) (Pumice 0 '/ 2 D decontaminated proposed by EYRAUD) Methyl methyl alkyl alkylamidoethyl 2,55 imidazolinium sulfate solution in propylene 75% MA (QUATERNIUM-87) glycol (VARISOFT W 575 PG, marketed by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) Amphoteric amphoteric starch 86% of 3.44 MA (STRUCTURE SOLANACE, marketed by AKZO NOBE) L) Amodimethicone in non-0.88 ionic aqueous emulsion with 20% of MA (SME 253 of MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) Behenyl trimethylammonium chloride in 0.79 solution in a water / isopropanol mixture (GENAMIN KDMP, marketed by CLARIANT) HEXADIMETHRIN CHLORIDE 0.25 Perfume, preservatives qs Water gs100% EXAMPLE 5 - The conditioner composition is prepared for rinsing:% MA cetyl alcohol (SASOL NACOL 16-98) 1.2 Pumice: natural pumice pumice (< 200 microns, 5.5 Mohs hardness) (Decontaminated Pumice 0 '/ 2 D 12 proposed by EYRAUD) 86% amphoteric potato starch at 3.44 MA (SOLANACE STRUCTURE, marketed by the company AKZO NOBEL) Amodimethicone in emulsion aqueous non 0.88 ionic at 20% of MA (SME 253 of MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) Behenyl trimethylammonium chloride in 0.79 solution in a water / isopropanol mixture (GENAMIN KDMP, sold by the company CLARIANT) myristate / palmitate mixture stearate of 0, 6 myristyl / cetyl / stearyl (CRODAMOL MS PA from CRODA) Fragrance, preservatives qs Water gs100%

Claims (20)

REVENDICATIONS1. In particular cosmetic composition comprising: - pumice particles (i), - one or more starches (ii), - one or more solid fatty alcohols (iii), and - one or more fatty esters (iv). 10 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the pumice particles have a hardness ranging from 3 to 10 Mohs, preferably greater than or equal to 4 and up to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 5, and up to 10, and in particular ranging from 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the pumice particles are present in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 35%, and in particular from 10% to 30% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch or starches originate from a vegetable source chosen from maize, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, tapioca and sorghum. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch or starches are modified and chosen from hydroxypropylated diamidon phosphate and starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch (s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, by weight of the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid fatty alcohol or alcohols is or are chosen from cetyl, stearyl, behenic, arachidonic and erucic alcohols and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid fatty alcohol or alcohols are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15%, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight. of the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty ester or esters are chosen from esters of fatty acids and alcohols chosen from monohydric alcohols or polyols and preferably monoalcohols, these alcohols. having 1 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty ester (s) are chosen from linear or branched carboxylic acid esters, preferably saturated esters containing at least 9 carbon atoms, and linear or branched monoalcohols. saturated with at least 9 carbon atoms, preferably saturated carboxylic acids preferably containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 34 carbon atoms and optionally being hydroxylated, and preferably saturated fatty alcohols containing preferably from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 34 carbon atoms. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 and 10, characterized in that the fatty ester (s) are chosen from myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristates, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates, cetyl stearyl myristyl stearates, behenyl behenate, optionally C26-C34 hydroxy acid esters and C26-C34 monohydric alcohols. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty ester (s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10%, more preferably from 0.01% to 5% and more preferably from 0% to 0%. , 1 to 3% of the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one surfactant preferably cationic. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains one or more additional conditioning agents preferably chosen from synthetic oils such as poly-α-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated gums, silicones, mineral or animal oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, cationic polymers and mixtures thereof. 20 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one amino silicone quaternized or not. 25 16. A method for treating keratinous fibers, such as human keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising a step of applying to the fibers of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, optionally followed by a rinsing step. 30 17. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises an additional step of subjecting the keratinous fibers, and in particular the treated hair, to a post-treatment, the post-treatment being chosen from the application of a conditioner. , a permanent solution, a straightener, a product for coloring or bleaching keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair. 18. Kit for treating keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair comprising: a cosmetic composition A comprising particles of pumice and a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more starches and one or more starches, one or more solid fatty alcohols; and one or more fatty esters. 19. Kit according to claim 18, further comprising a composition for post-treatment of keratinous fibers, preferably chosen from a conditioner, a permanent, a straightener, a product for coloring or decolouring keratinous fibers. 20. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15 for smoothing keratinous fibers, and especially the hair.