FR3109087A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR HAIR AND PROCESS FOR SHAPING OR MODIFYING HAIR SHAPE - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for hair and process for shaping or modifying the shape of hair The present application relates to a cosmetic composition for hair, a process involving the application of the cosmetic composition for hair to hair to shape or modify the shape of hair. hair, for example, by straightening the hair, and the use of the cosmetic composition for hair, in which the composition contains at least one reducing agent, at least one amino acid and at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, in which the pH of the composition is less than 7. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR HAIR AND PROCESS FOR SHAPING OR MODIFYING THE SHAPE OF HAIR

Field of invention

The present application relates to a cosmetic composition for hair, a process involving the application of such a composition to hair to shape or modify the shape of the hair, for example, by straightening the hair, and the use of the composition cosmetic for hair, in which the cosmetic composition for hair contains at least one reducing agent, at least one amino acid and at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant.

Background of the invention

Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substrates such as hair are commercially available in various forms, for example, as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of form, these products must perform and confer certain benefits and attributes such as efficacy, cosmeticity, desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application. Thus, in order to meet changing consumer needs and preferences, manufacturers of such products continually seek to reformulate and create new products that are more effective, while still remaining stable and safe to use. In addition, manufacturers continue to experiment with the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new product forms that may help provide desired attributes and properties with respect to viscosity, texture, stability and efficacy.

The quality and condition of the hair is generally adversely affected by the action of external agents such as sunlight, wind, pollution, humidity, and chemicals in swimming pools, and also by mechanical treatments. or chemicals, such as brushing, combing, shampooing, dyeing, lightening, perms and/or straightening. The hair is thus damaged by these various factors and can over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends leading to split ends. Under such circumstances, hair can also become less manageable, frizzier and less disciplined, and more difficult to style or style.

Hair care products are used to combat these disadvantages. Conventional washing compositions such as shampoos, for example, which contain surfactants such as surfactants of the anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type, can be used to remove the various types of dirt typically present on the hair. These washing compositions, while imparting good washing power, can lead to a less conditioned or coarse feeling of the hair due, for example, to the progressive elimination of natural or applied fats, lipids, or proteins contained in or on the surface hair. Additionally, washing the hair with water alone can also cause the hair to tangle, become less smooth and dry.

Hair conditioning products or hair mask can be used on the hair after it has been shampooed or rinsed in order to impart hair care properties to the hair. Traditional conditioners and masks provide conditioning, smoothing, softening and visual shine to hair and are usually rinse-out products.

Consumers are also looking for hair care regimens and products that can provide control or even eliminate frizz, and control or reduce the volume and apparent bulk of hair on the head as well as provide additional appearance-changing benefits, hair shape or configuration. Additionally, consumers desire such products to impart longer lasting or continuous benefits to the hair over a period of time. Thus, it is desirable that manufacturers of hair products formulate not only rinse-out shampoos and conditioners but also products which do not involve immediate rinsing or which provide longer term treatments such as those provided by hair without rinsing.

One type of product that can style or configure hair is styling products, for example, leave-in gels and creams that employ ingredients such as film-forming polymers that impart desirable styling or styling hold while remaining on the hair. However, some ingredients can be easily removed from the hair, for example by rinsing or washing. Thus, any cosmetic benefit provided to the hair by such products is generally diminished or eliminated once the hair is rinsed or washed.

Another type of composition that can be applied to the hair in order to change its shape and make it more manageable is an alkaline composition found in commercial relaxers or straighteners. These products can provide a longer lasting shape or style to the hair. Alkaline hair straightening/straightening involves the hydrolysis of the keratin of the hair with various alkaline agents, such as inorganic hydroxides, for example sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidine hydroxide, or organic amines. Hair straighteners/straightening products which use sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called soda products and products which use other alkaline agents such as lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, hydroxides Organics and other non-hydroxide compounds, for example, organic amines, generally fall into the category of non-soda products. However, it is desirable to find alternatives to alkaline and non-lying soda products and the process described above which can damage the hair by weakening and/or causing dryness of the hair fibers.

Thus, it is highly desirable to have hair care regimens and products which, for example, straighten or straighten curly or frizzy hair, including wavy hair, or reduce/soften curls while making the hair more manageable , detangled, more easily styled or shaped and disciplined. At the same time, it is also highly desirable that such regimens and products provide cosmetic effects that are long lasting.

An object of embodiments of the disclosure is to provide a cosmetic hair composition with ingredients that can effectively shape or change the shape of hair or impart smoothing benefits as well as enhanced hair care and management properties. and other cosmetic properties such as volume control/reduction, frizz control/reduction, manageability (less flyaways), and evenness of shape.

However, the discovery of new compositions and methods for treating hair that have enhanced efficacy but impart little or no damage to the hair, can pose challenges for manufacturers and formulators because the incorporation of new ingredients into the compositions can have an impact negative on their performance, cosmetic attributes, texture, and formulation stability. Additionally, acidity/alkalinity and/or pH is an important consideration for these products. New treatment processes and changes in hair shape can also impact composition performance, treatment times and quality of use. Thus, manufacturers of such products continually test the use of new raw materials and new ingredients or new product forms and seek to reformulate and create new products having the desired qualities, while still remaining stable and safe to to use.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for hair, in which the composition comprises:

(a) at least one reducing agent chosen from thiol-based reducing agents;

(b) at least one amino acid;

(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant; in which the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amido (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl ( C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl amido (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl amphoacetate, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl amphodiacetate , and their salts;

wherein the pH of the cosmetic hair composition is less than 7.

The present invention also relates to hair treatment processes involving the application of the cosmetic hair composition described above to hair and the use of said composition to smooth and/or modify the shape of the hair.

In particular, the invention relates to a process for modifying the shape and color of hair, this process comprising the steps of:

a) optionally, applying a lightening composition to the hair;

b) optionally, rinsing the hair;

c) application of a cosmetic composition for hair at least once on the hair; wherein the cosmetic composition for hair comprises:

(a) at least one reducing agent chosen from thiol-based reducing agents;

(b) at least one amino acid;

(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, in which the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amiod (C ₁ to C ₆ ) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphoacetate , alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphodiacetate, their salts, and their mixtures;

wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7;

d) pause for a certain period;

e) hair drying (up to 100% drying);

f) application of a straightening iron to the hair;

g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair; And

h) rinsing the hair.

Detailed description of the invention

The present cosmetic hair compositions effectively alter the shape or configuration of hair and impart hair management properties, including one or more of conditioning; smoothing effects; frizz control; volume reduction or volume control; styling effects or conditioning/shaping; loop reduction effects while having improved or retained loop definition; texlaxing effects (gentle straightening); relaxing effects; humidity resistance; cosmetic to the touch; smooth feel; natural feel; lesser or reduced rough ends; and/or an improvement in the appearance and integrity of the hair.

"At least one" as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

"Keratinous substrates" as used herein includes, but is not limited to, keratin fibers such as hair and/or scalp on the human head.

"Conditioning" as used herein means imparting to one or more fibers of the hair at least one of combability, moisture retention capacity, luster, shine, and softness. Conditioning status can be assessed by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring and comparing the combability of treated and untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm- thumb), and consumer perception.

The term "treating" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the cosmetic hair compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term "treating" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of this disclosure.

A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition such as a cosmetic hair composition that is rinsed out and/or washed out with water either before or during the application of the composition to the keratinous substrate, and before drying and / or styling said keratinous substrate. At least a portion of the cosmetic composition for hair is removed from the keratinous substrate during rinsing and/or washing.

A "leave-in" product refers to a composition such as a cosmetic hair composition that is applied to the hair and left on the hair while drying and/or styling the hair.

The term "stable" as used herein means that the cosmetic composition for hair does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.

"Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about 100°C.

"Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100°C.

"Reducing agent" as used herein, means an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of hair.

"Active Ingredient" as used herein in relation to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

"Substituted", as used herein, means comprising one or more substituents. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

"Polymers", as used herein, include homopolymers and copolymers formed from two or more different types of monomers.

"INCI" is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

The cosmetic hair compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. .

Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning to +/- 10% near the number indicated.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, and combinations of sub-ranges therebetween. Thus, a range of 1-5, specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for hair, in which the composition comprises:

(a) at least one reducing agent selected from a reducing agent based on thiol, selected from reducing agents based on thiol;

(b) at least one amino acid;

(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, in which the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is chosen from alkyls (C₈to C₂₀) betaines, alkyl (C₈to C₂₀) amidoalkyl (C₁to C₆) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C₈to C₂₀) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C₈to C₂₀) amidoalkyl (C₁to C₆) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C₈to C₂₀) amphoacetate, alkyl (C₈to C₂₀) amphodiacetate, and their salts;

wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for hair comprising:

(a) from 0.1 to 4% by weight of at least one reducing agent chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and their salts;

(b) from 0.1 to 6.0% by weight of at least one amino acid, selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine;

(c) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amido (C ₁ C ₆ ) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphoacetate, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphodiacetate, and their salts;

wherein the pH of the composition is 3.5 to 4.5;

wherein the percentage amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic hair composition is silicone-free or substantially silicone-free.

In some cases, the compositions are free or essentially free of silicone. For example, the compositions include less than about 3 wt%, 2 wt%, 1 wt%, or 0.5 wt% silicones, or preferably contain no silicones. In some cases, the compositions include silicones. Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine-functionalized (eg, amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, etc. silicones.

In another embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain a raw material which is commercially available as a mixture containing a silicone compound.

The present invention also relates to hair treatment processes involving the application of the cosmetic composition for hair described above to hair and the use of said composition for smoothing and/or modifying the shape of the hair.

The present invention is also directed to hair treatment processes involving the application of the cosmetic hair composition described above to hair which has already been chemically treated, for example, after hair lightening. Hair treatment with the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure can be repeated at regular intervals over a period of time.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a process for altering the shape and color of hair, the process comprising the steps of:

a) applying a lightening composition to the hair;

b) rinsing the hair;

c) application of the cosmetic composition for hair at least once to the hair;

d) break for a certain duration such as approximately 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, or 30 minutes or for a duration ranging from approximately 5 minutes up to approximately 60 minutes;

e) blow drying (up to 100% drying)

f) application of a hair straightener (set at a temperature of up to approximately 230°C);

g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair;

h) rinsing the hair.

In one embodiment, steps c) to g) can be repeated over a period of several weeks.

In another embodiment of the invention, the period of several weeks is 2 weeks or 15 days.

In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic hair composition in any of the above described processes of the invention is a hair straightening composition. In yet other preferred embodiments, said hair straightening composition is left on the hair for a predetermined time sufficient to accomplish a desired degree of hair straightening.

In other preferred embodiments, the hair cosmetic composition in any of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair curl reduction composition. In still other preferred embodiments, said hair curl reduction composition is left on the hair for a predetermined time sufficient to accomplish a desired degree of hair curl reduction such as hair straightening or hair texlaxing. hair or a stretching of the curls of the hair.

The compositions in the process described above are stable over time, i.e. do not exhibit phase separation and they can be stored for several months without modification and with very little change or fluctuation in viscosity and/or temperature. rheology and the pH of the cosmetic composition for hair.

It has been surprisingly and unexpectedly found that the application of the cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention results in effectively shaped or straightened hair or an effectively reduced degree of curling of the hair.

It has been surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that hair which has been chemically treated (such as lightened hair) followed by treatment with the cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention exhibits better fiber integrity as compared to other treatments.

It has also been surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the cosmetic composition for hair of the invention was stable over time and had a smooth, dropless, and homogeneous texture/consistency and effectively shaped or smoothed the hair.

The drip-free consistency of the cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention is desirable because it helps the cosmetic hair compositions stay on the hair for a predetermined length of time to achieve the desired shape of the hair or a desired degree of straightening or curl reduction. hair.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the reducing agent is chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2- mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthin, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine and their salts, alkali metal sulphites, alkaline earth metal sulphites, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the amino acid is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine , N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, amino acid derivatives such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) amidoalkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl sulfobetaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amido (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl sulfobetaines, (C 8 to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amphoacetate, (C ₈ to C 20 ) alkyl ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thiol reducing agent is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 4%. % by weight, more preferably about 2% to about 4% by weight, even more preferably about 3% to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions for hair of the present invention further comprise at least one neutralizing agent chosen from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/sulfamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine , calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the neutralizing agent is at least one amino acid.

In one embodiment, the amino acid of the present invention, such as arginine or lysine or another amino acid can be used as a neutralizing agent.

In one embodiment, the pH of the cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention is from about pH 3 to about 7, or from about pH 3 to about 6, or from about pH 3 to about 5.2, such as than from about pH 3 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 3.5 to about 4.5 including all ranges and sub-ranges included.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions for hair of the present invention further comprise at least one additional component selected from organic solvents, plasticizers, opacifiers, plant/vegetable oils, hydrocarbons, lower alkanes, perfume, preservatives, color adjusters, pH, plant extracts, salts, vitamins, sunscreens, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition for hair of the present invention is a washing or shampoo composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic hair composition of the present invention is a leave-in hair composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic hair composition of the present invention is a leave-in or rinse-out hair mask composition.

The cosmetic compositions for hair described above can be used on any type of hair, for example, light or dark, straight or curly hair, natural hair, or hair which has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as a perm, dyeing, lightening or straightening.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition for hair of the present invention is applied to curly, weakened, and/or damaged hair.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follow.

Reducing agent

The present invention employs at least one reducing agent selected from thiol reducing agents.

The thiol reducing agents which can be used in the cosmetic composition for hair of the invention include thiol reducing agents chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic, thio diglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthin, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the reducing agent(s) used in the cosmetic composition for the hair of the invention is (are) thiol reducing agents, more particularly thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid or their salts. , in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, cysteine, and mixtures thereof.

In still other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the cosmetic composition for hair of the invention is chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the reducing agent used in the cosmetic composition for hair of the invention is thiolactic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the reducing agent used in the cosmetic hair composition of the invention includes thiolactic acid.

In other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the cosmetic composition for hair of the invention is thioglycolic acid.

In yet other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention comprises thiolactic acid and thioglycolic acid.

The at least one reducing agent can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 3.5% by weight. weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition, including all ranges and subranges included.

In various embodiments, the at least one reducing agent may be present in an amount of about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6 %, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, or 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Amino acids

The amino acids of the cosmetic compositions for hair of the present invention can be chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, amino acid derivatives such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the at least one amino acid is chosen from arginine, serine, cysteine, glutamic acid, an amino acid derivative such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the at least one amino acid includes arginine.

According to one embodiment, the at least one amino acid is arginine.

The at least one amino acid may be present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 6.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 4% by weight, or even more preferably about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges included.

In various embodiments, the at least one amino acid may be present in an amount of about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6 %, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, or 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactant

The amphoteric surfactants of the present invention may optionally be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amiod (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl sulfobetaines , (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amphoacetate, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives which may be used, mention may also be made of the products of the respective structures (A1) and (A2) below:

(A1) Ra-CON(Z)CH ₂ -(CH ₂ )m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH ₂ COO-)

in which :

Ra represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

(A2) Ra'-CON(Z)CH ₂ -(CH ₂ )m'-N(B)(B')

in which :

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX', X' representing -CH ₂ -COOH, CH2-COOZ', CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents -(CH ₂ )z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing COOH, COOZ', CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z',

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2- methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

Ra' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in linseed oil or hydrolyzed coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a group C ₁₇ alkyl, and also its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) in which X' represents a hydrogen atom, mention may be made of compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, under the names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate. sodium.

Other compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

The examples which may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate, the sodium cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.

It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (A3):

(A3) Ra''-NH-CH(Y'')-(CH ₂ )nC(O)-NH-(CH ₂ )n'-N(Rd)(Re)

in which :

- Ra'' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-C(O)OH preferably present in linseed oil or hydrolyzed coconut oil;

- Y'' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ -Z '', with Z'' representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- Rd and Re represent, independently of one another, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; And

- n and n' designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A3), mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropylcocoaspartamide, such as that sold by the company Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) betaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amiodalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) betaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphoacetates and alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the at least one amphoteric surfactant of the present invention is chosen from alkyl (C₈ To VS₂₀) alkyl betaines, alkyl (C₈to C₂₀) amidobetaines, alkyl (C₈to C₂₀) amphoacetate, alkyl (C₈to C₂₀) amphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) betaines such as that known by the INCI names cocobetaine, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amiodalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) betaines such as that known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the amphoteric surfactant is cocobetaine.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of amphoteric surfactants is from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.8% to about 6% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition, inclusive of all ranges and under -beaches included.

Amino silicones

The cosmetic composition for hair according to the invention may also comprise one or more amino silicones. The term "amino silicone" is intended to designate any silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

As amino silicone that can be used within the scope of the invention, the following may be mentioned:

a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;

b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):

R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a (B)

in which :

- the Gs, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or a C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl group, for example methyl, or a C ₁ to C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy ,

- the a's, which may be identical or different, designate the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

- b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1;

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that it is possible that n designates a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m designates a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- the R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical corresponding to the formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR"-Q-N(R")2

-N(R”)2

-N+(R")3 A-

-N+H(R")2 A-

-N+H2(R") A-

-N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A-

-NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A-

-NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-,

in which the R", which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or radical based on a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon, for example a C ₁ to C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear CrH _2r group or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4, and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to the formula (C):

wherein n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the silicones corresponding to the following formulas (D) or (E):

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that it is possible that n designates a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m designates a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ to C ₄ alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equal to 0.3:1.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

in which :

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that it is possible that p denotes a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q denotes a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- R1, R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ to C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the R1 or R2 radicals denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1:1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly equal to 1:0.95.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.

Commercial products corresponding to these silicones corresponding to structure (D) or (E) can include in the cosmetic composition for hair one or more amino silicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

When these amino silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any kind but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones corresponding to formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (limits included) . Consequently, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions corresponding to the formula (E) sold under the name Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that it is possible that n designates a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m designates a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G):

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that it is possible that n designates a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m designates a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning.

c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):

in which :

- R5 represents a radical based on a monovalent hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ to C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- R6 represents a radical based on a divalent hydrocarbon, in particular a C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkenyloxy radical, for example C ₁ to C ₈ linked to Si via an SiC bond ;

- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

- r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular of 2 to 8;

- s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

Such amino silicones are described more particularly in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

d) quaternary ammonium silicones corresponding to formula (I):

in which :

- the R7, which may be identical or different, represent a radical based on a monovalent hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ to C alkenyl radical ₁₈ or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R6 represents a radical based on a divalent hydrocarbon, in particular a C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkylenoxy radical, for example C ₁ to C ₈ linked to Si via a bond to the SiC;

- the R8s, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical based on a monovalent hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a radical C ₂ to C ₁₈ alkenyl or a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

- r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

e) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (J):

in which :

- R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group;

- R5 represents a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group;

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

and wherein x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

Said silicones preferably consist of repeated units corresponding to the following general formulas:

[-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O)a(C ₃ H ₆ O)b -R'-N(H)-R-]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C ₃ H6O)b -]

in which :

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- the Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a radical based on a linear or branched C ₂ to C ₁₂ hydrocarbon, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R denotes a —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ — radical;

- the R′, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C ₂ to C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane sequences preferably represent between 50 and 95% by mol of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by mol.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of the copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft™ A-843 or Silsoft™ A+ by Momentive.

g) alkylamino silicones corresponding to formula (K) below:

in which :

- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms of carbon ;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. Mention may in particular be made of the following divalent radicals: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular mention may be made of the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (ceyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

Preferably, the silicone is of formula (K) with:

- x ranging from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

- y ranging from 1 to 100;

- A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And

- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being linear, saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (INCI name).

Mention may in particular be made of the silicone sold under the name Silsoft™ AX by Momentive.

In one embodiment, the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (F). A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

When it is present in the cosmetic composition for hair according to the invention, the amino silicone is in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1% to approximately 15% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.2% to approximately 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 8% by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.4% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition for hair, including all ranges and sub-ranges included.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic hair composition is silicone-free or substantially silicone-free.

In another embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain a raw material which is commercially available in a mixture containing a silicone compound.

Nonionic surfactants

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions for hair of the present invention comprise at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl (ether) phosphates, alkyl polyglucosides, fatty acid alkanolamides, and mixtures thereof.

fatty alcohols

The fatty alcohols correspond to linear, branched saturated/unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 60 carbon atoms and preferably correspond to the formula R-OH in which R is a radical based on linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, or 10 to 50 carbon atoms, or 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or 10 to 22 carbon atoms optionally comprising one or more OH groups.

The saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched and can be in liquid form. They may optionally include, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

Unsaturated fatty alcohols have, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally include, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

The liquid fatty alcohols can be chosen, for example, from octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecyleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohols of the invention can be in solid form and can be non-oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols can be constituents of animal or vegetable waxes.

Solid fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, as a mixture, in a commercial product. An example of such a commercial product is cetearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, commercially available under the trade name LANETTE-O from the company BASF. Cetyl alcohol may also be commercially available under the trade name LANETTE 16 from the company BASF.

In one embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols of the present invention can be chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol , linoleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Other suitable examples of the solid fatty alcohol of the present invention include branched solid fatty alcohols selected from 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-octadecanol and 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosanol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol comprises cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Alkoxylated fatty alcohols

"Alkoxylated fatty alcohol" as used herein means a compound having at least one fatty portion (8 or more carbon atoms) and at least one alkoxylated portion (-(CH ₂ )nO-, where n is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably from 2 to 3. According to particularly preferred embodiments, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention can be used as nonionic surfactants, if desired. preferably preferably have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value of 1-20, inclusive of all ranges and sub-ranges included, HLB values ranging from 1 to 5 (especially 3 to 5) or from 15 to 20 (in particular from 16 to 18) being the most preferred Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is chosen from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, propoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol can be chosen from ethoxylated di-alkyl, tri-alkyl and combinations of di-alkyl and tri-alkyl substituted polymers. They can be chosen from mono-alkyl, di-alkyl, tri-alkyl, tetra-alkyl substituted alkyl ethoxylated polymers and all their combinations. The alkyl group can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear and contain a number of carbon atoms preferably from about 12 carbon atoms to about 50 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges included, for example , 20 to 40 carbon atoms, 22 to 24 carbon atoms, 30 to 50 carbon atoms, and 40 to 60 carbon atoms. Most preferably, the fatty portion contains a mixture of compounds of variable carbon atoms such as, for example, C ₂₀ to C ₄₀ compounds, C ₂₂ to C ₂₄ compounds, C ₃₀ to C ₅₀ compounds , and C ₄₀ to C ₆₀ compounds.

Preferably, the alkoxylated portion of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention contains 2 or more alkoxylation units, preferably 10 to 200 alkoxylation units, preferably 20 to 150 alkoxylation units, and preferably from 25 to 100 alkoxylation units, including all included ranges and subranges. Also preferably, the alkoxylation units contain 2 carbon atoms (ethoxylation units) and/or 3 carbon atoms (propoxylation units).

The amount of alkoxylation can also be determined by the weight percent of the alkoxylated portion relative to the total weight of the compound. Suitable weight percentages of the alkoxylated portion relative to the total weight of the compound include, but are not limited to, 10 percent to 95 percent, preferably 20 percent to 90 percent, inclusive of all ranges and sub- ranges included, with 75 percent to 90 percent (especially 80 percent to 90 percent) or 20 percent to 50 percent being preferred.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention have a number average molecular weight (Mn) greater than 500, preferably 500 to 5,000, including all ranges and subranges included such as, for example, a Mn of 500 to 1250 or a Mn of 2000 to 5000.

Suitable examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include: laureth-3, laureth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, laureth~23, ceteth-10, steareth-10, steareth-20 steareth-2, steareth-100, beheneth -5, beheneth-5, beheneth-10, oleth-10, Pareth alcohols, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11-15 pareth-7, PPG-5 ceteth-20, propylene glycol PEG-55 oleate, glycereth-26 (PEG-26 Glyceryl Ether), methyl glucose dioleate PEG 120, methyl glucose trioleate PEG 120, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate PEG 150, and mixtures thereof.

Alkyl(ether)phosphates

Suitable alkyl(ether)phosphates include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters corresponding to a mono-ester of formula (I) and its salts:

RO[CH ₂ O]u[(CH ₂ )xCH(R')(CH ₂ )y(CH ₂ )zO]v[CH ₂ CH ₂ O]w-PO-(OH)2 Formula (I); a di-ester corresponding to formula (II) and its salts:

{RO[CH ₂ O]u[(CH ₂ )xCH(R')(CH ₂ )y(CH ₂ )zO]v[CH ₂ CH ₂ O]w} ₂ PO-(OH) Formula (II); a tri-ester corresponding to formula (III):

{RO[CH ₂ O]u[(CH ₂ )xCH(R')(CH ₂ )y(CH ₂ )zO]v[CH ₂ CH ₂ O]w}3PO Formula (III);

and their combinations, in which:

R is a hydrocarbon radical containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms;

u, v and w, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 60;

x, y and z, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 13;

R' represents hydrogen, alkyl, the sum x + y + z being 0. The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. While at the molecular level the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, at the macroscopic level they are average values in the form of fractional numbers.

In formulas (I), (II) and (III), R is a C ₆ -C ₄₀ linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl group of preferably linear or branched, acyclic a (C ₁ to C ₄₀ )alkylphenyl group, more particularly a C ₈ to C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group or a (C ₄ to C ₁₈ )alkylphenyl group, more preferably a C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group or a (C ₆ to C ₁₆ )alkylphenyl group; u, v, w, independently of each other, are preferably a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from 3 to 17 and most preferably a number from 5 to 15;

x, y, z, independently of each other, are preferably a number from 2 to 13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a number from 0 to 8.

In general, the lower the number of carbon atoms in the R group of phosphate esters, the greater the skin irritation and the less water soluble the phosphate ester becomes. On the contrary, the higher the number of carbon atoms in the R group, the softer and thicker the skin and the more waxy the resulting product becomes. Accordingly, for the best results, R should be 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred alkyl alkoxylated phosphate esters for use in the present invention are PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS SG(R)), Oleth-3 phosphate (CRODAFOS N3 acid), Oleth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS N10 acid ), and a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate (CRODAFOS CES) all sold by Croda. Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate esters are cetyl phosphate (Hostaphat CC 100), stearyl phosphate (Hostaphat CS 120) from Clariant.

In one embodiment, the alkyl(ether)phosphates are chosen from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, dicetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

Alkylpolyglucosides

Alkyl(poly)glucoside (alkylpolyglycoside) is specially represented by the following general formula:

R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

in which :

- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, ie, the value of v, optionally ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C ₈ to C ₁₆ 1,4-alkyl (poly)glycosides, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are very particularly preferred.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names ^PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or ^PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or otherwise the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

Preferably, use is made of 1,4-C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkyl(poly)glucosides, in particular in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference ^Plantacare® 818 UP.

In one embodiment, the alkylpolyglucoside is selected from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocoglucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid alkanolamides

Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a fatty acid C₆to C₃₆. Such surfactants can be chosen from mono-alkanolamides and C-fatty acid dialkanolamides₆to C₃₆, and preferably from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C fatty acids₈ to C₃₀or C fatty acids₈to C₂₄, and may have a C hydroxyalkyl group₂to C₃. Their examples include, but are not limited to:

Oleic Acid Diethanolamide, Oleic Acid Monoisopropanolamide, Myristic Acid Monoethanolamide, Soy Fatty Acid Diethanolamide, Stearic Acid Ethanolamide, Linoleic Acid Diethanolamide, Behenic Acid Monoethanolamide, Isostearic Acid Monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide coco, palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the fatty acid alkanolamide is selected from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleyl (or linoleyl-ether) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from alcohol cetyl, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, dicetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, laureth-7, laureth-9, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, _C12 to _C13 pareth-3, _C12 to _C13 pareth-23, _C11 to _C15 pareth-7, PPG -5 ceteth-20, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, glycereth-26, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cocamide MIPA, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one nonionic surfactant is present in the cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention in an amount from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight. % by weight, inclusive of all ranges and subranges included 0.5% to about 12% by weight, inclusive of all ranges and subranges included 1% to about 10% by weight, or even more preferably from about 2% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition, including ranges and subranges included

Cationic surfactant

The cosmetic composition for hair according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Quaternary ammonium salts useful in the invention include, for example:

- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the formula (Ia):

in which :

the groups R8 to R11, which may be the same or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; knowing that it is possible for the aliphatic groups to include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens;

The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ to C ₆ ), C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkylamide, alkyl (C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ ) alkyl (C ₂ to C ₆ ) amido, alkyl (C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ ) acetate and hydroxy C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl.

X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfonates and alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to formula (Ia), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or secondly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride, which is sold under the name ^Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline corresponding to the formula (IIa):

in which

R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derivatives of tallow acid;

R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R14 represents a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group;

R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group;

X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfonates and alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulphonates;

R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. A product of this kind is sold for example under the name Rewoquat ^® W 75 by the company Rewo.

- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the formula (IIIa):

(IIIa)

in which :

R16 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH ₂ )3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a) group;

R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be the same or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; And

X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfonates and alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulphonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat ^® CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat ^® CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions corresponding to the following formula (IVa):

(IVa)

in which :

R22 is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or C ₁ -C ₆ dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R23 is selected from the group R26-C(=O)-; C ₁ to C ₂₂ R27 groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon; and a hydrogen atom;

R25 is selected from the group R28-C(=O)-; C ₁ to C ₆ R29 groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon; and a hydrogen atom;

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₇ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1;

r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X- is a simple or complex organic or mineral anion;

provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27, and when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.

The R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it can be long and can have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or can be short and can have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups. or branched.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The X- anion is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfate, an alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulfonate. However, it is possible to use a methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with ammonium comprising an ester function.

The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use may more particularly be made, in the cosmetic composition for hair according to the invention, of ammonium salts corresponding to the formula (IVb) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1,

- z is equal to 0 or 1,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl groups, ethyl groups or C ₁₄ to C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups; and a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IVb), examples which may be mentioned include salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methyl sulphate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of esters of methyl thereof. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart ^® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The cosmetic composition for hair according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of monoester, diester and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. Use may also be made of ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which are described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example , sold by the Kao company under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts contain at least one ester function.

Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from cetrimonium chloride (cetyltrimethylammonium salt), behentrimonium chloride (behenyltrimethylammonium salt), behentrimonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition for hair according to the invention comprises the cationic surfactant in an amount ranging from about 1 to about 16% by weight, preferably, 1.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 10 wt%, and even more preferably about 2 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges included.

Thickening agents

The cosmetic compositions for hair according to the present disclosure can additionally comprise at least one thickening agent. Thickening agents are generally used to modify the viscosity and/or the rheology of the cosmetic composition for hair. As used herein, the expression "thickening agent" means compounds which, by their presence, increase the viscosity of the cosmetic composition for the hair into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps, such as by at least 50 cps, at 25°C and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 . Viscosity can be measured using a plane/cone viscometer, Haake R600 rheometer, or the like.

The thickening agent can be referred to here interchangeably as thickener or rheology modifier. Thickening agents are also sometimes referred to as gelling agents and/or viscosity modifying agents.

In certain embodiments, the thickening agent can be chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics, such as polymers of natural origin and synthetic polymers, for example, nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphiphilic or amphoteric polymers, and other known rheology modifiers, such as cellulose-based thickeners.

In some embodiments, the thickening agents can be an anionic thickening agent.

The anionic thickeners can be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners. As used herein, the term "hydrophilic thickener" is intended to indicate that the thickening agent is soluble or dispersible in water. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic thickeners include homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters, such as those sold under the trade names Versicol F ^® or Versicol K ^® by the company Allied Colloid, or under the trade name Ultrahold 8 ^® by the company Ciba-Geigy; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, of methylacrylate and of dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohols such as methylacrylate and isocyanate of dimethyl meta -isopropenyl benzyl ethoxylated alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3) sold under the trade name Viscophobe ^® DB 1000 by Dow Chemical Company, those sold under the trade names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian, or under the trade name Hispajel by Hispano Chimica; and poly(acrylic acids) of the Synthalen ^® K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt, such as those sold under the trade names Reten ^® by Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate such as those sold under the trade name Darvan ^® 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the trade name Hydagen F ^® by the company Henkel, copolymers of poly(acrylic acid/acrylate alkyl) of the PemulenTM type, associative polymers, for example a copolymer of PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI such as those sold under the trade name ACULYN™ 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, a copolymer of steareth-100/ PEG-136/HDI such as those sold under the trade name ^Rheolate® FX 1100 by the company Elementis, and mixtures thereof.

As used herein, the term "copolymers" is intended to denote both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, such as, for example, terpolymers obtained from from three types of monomers. The chemical structure of the copolymers comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The expression "hydrophobic unit" or "hydrophobic unit" is understood to mean a radical having a saturated or unsaturated and linear hydrocarbon-based chain or which comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, for example from 10 to 30 carbon atoms , as a further example from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and as a still further example from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

In certain embodiments, the hydrophilic thickener can be chosen from anionic associative polymers. As used here, the expression "associative polymer" is intended to designate any polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.

In certain embodiments, the associative polymers can be chosen from polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit with a fatty chain; polymers in which the hydrophilic unit consists of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, such as vinylcarboxylic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or mixtures thereof; and the polymers in which the allyl ether unit with a fatty chain corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH ₂ = C(R')CH ₂ OBnR (I)

in which R' is chosen from H or CH ₃ , B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R is a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl , aryl, alkylaryl, or cycloalkyl containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 10 to 24 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479.

In certain embodiments, the associative anionic polymer can be chosen from anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of alkyl ester (C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ ) of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

In certain embodiments, the at least one thickening agent is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids possessing α,β-ethylenically unsaturated groups or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) possessing ethylenically unsaturated groups and comprising a hydrophobic group. Such copolymers can exhibit emulsifying properties.

As used herein, the term "copolymers" is intended to denote both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, such as, for example, terpolymers obtained from from three types of monomers. The chemical structure of the copolymers comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The expression "hydrophobic unit" or "hydrophobic unit" is understood to mean a radical possessing a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain which comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, for example from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon, as a further example from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and as a further example from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

In certain embodiments, the thickening copolymer can be chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:

(1) at least one monomer of formula (II):

_CH2 =CH(R1)COOH(II)

wherein R1 is selected from H, CH ₃ , or C ₂ H ₅ , providing monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or ethacrylic acid, and

(2) at least one alkyl ester monomer (C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (III):

_CH2 =CH( _R2 )COOR3(III)

in which R2 is chosen from H, CH ₃ , or C ₂ H ₅ , providing acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate, and R3 denotes a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl radical, such as a C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ alkyl radical.

In certain embodiments, the alkyl esters (C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acids can be chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate or corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate or dodecyl methacrylate, or mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the crosslinked thickening polymer can be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

(1) acrylic acid,

(2) an ester of formula (III) described above, in which R2 is chosen from H or CH ₃ , R3 denotes an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

(3) a crosslinking agent, which is a known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

In various embodiments, the cross-linked thickening polymer can comprise from about 60% to about 95% by weight acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from about 4% to about 40% by weight C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ (hydrophobic unit), and from about 0% to about 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer. In additional embodiments, the cross-linked thickening polymer can comprise from about 96% to about 98% by weight acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from about 1% to about 4% by weight alkyl acrylate C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ (hydrophobic unit), and about 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, such as those described above.

In certain embodiments, the cross-linked thickening polymer can be chosen from C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate/acrylate polymers (INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold under the trade names Pemulen™ TR1, Pemulen™ TR2, Carbopol ^® 1382 and Carbopol ^® EDT 2020 by the company Lubrizol.

Anionic thickening agent may also be known as rheology modifiers such as acrylate-based or acrylic-based polymers, carbomers, cross-linked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropane-sulfonic acid, and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and/or (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl ester.

In one embodiment, the anionic thickening agent is chosen from polyacrylate-3, commercially known under the trade name Viscophobe DB-100 and sold by the Dow Chemical Company, carbomers, commercially known under the trade name Carbopol polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, cross-linked acrylate/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate copolymers, commercially known under the trade names Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials , Inc., a cross-linked copolymer of acrylates/C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate such as Carbopol ^® Ultrez 20 Polymer by and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc., an AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer , commercially known under the trade name Fixate G-100 polymer and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc., a cross-linked polymer of polyacrylate-6 such as SepimaxTM Zen by the company Seppic, and a copolymer of methacrylic acid/acrylate d cross-linked ethyl, also known as aqueous dispersion acrylate copolymer, such as the lightly cross-linked, alkali-swellable acrylate polymer by the INCI name acrylates copolymer and sold by Lubrizol, under the trade name CARBOPOL Aqua SF- 1 as an aqueous dispersion comprising about 30 percent by weight total solids or active ingredient.

In various embodiments, the thickening agents can be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, for example cellulose polymers and gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as those sold under the trademark Carbopol ^® (CTFA name: carbomer ) by the company Goodrich, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt, such as those sold under the trade names Reten ^® by Hercules, and the sodium salts of acids polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the trade name Hydagen F ^® by the company Henkel, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for example poly(acid 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic) such as those sold under the trade name Hostacerin ^® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) by the company Clariant, the crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, for example in the form of a water emulsion in the oils, such as those sold under the trade name Sepigel™ 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the trade name Simugel™ 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 ) by the company Seppic, copolymers of poly(acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate) of the Pemulen™ type, associative polymers, for example the copolymer of PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI such as those sold under the trade name ACULYN™ 46 by Rohm & Haas, the steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer such as those sold under the trade name ^Rheolate® FX 1100 by Elementis, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the hydrophilic thickener can be chosen from associative polymers. As used here, the expression "associative polymer" is understood to mean any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. As used herein, the term "amphiphilic polymer" means a polymer composed of hydrophilic and hydrophobic parts.

In certain embodiments, the associative polymers can be anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric. In certain embodiments, the associative polymers can be chosen from polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit with a fatty chain; polymers in which the hydrophilic unit consists of an anionic unsaturated ethylenic monomer, such as a vinyl carboxylic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or mixtures thereof; and the polymers in which the allyl ether unit with a fatty chain corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH ₂ = C(R')CH ₂ OBnR (I)

in which R' is chosen from H or CH ₃ , B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R is a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl , aryl, alkylaryl, or cycloalkyl containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 10 to 24 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479.

In other embodiments, the cationic associative polymer can be selected from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing side amine groups.

In other embodiments, the nonionic associative polymer can be chosen from celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethyl celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as groups alkyl, for example C ₈ to C ₂₂ alkyl groups, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups; cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, also known under the trade name Natrosol ^® Plus (sold by the company Ashland), Bermocoll EHM 100 (sold by the company Berol Nobel), Amercell Polymer HM-1500 ^® sold by the company Amerchol; hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether, sold by the company Amerchol; celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups; guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, optionally modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain, for example Jaguar ^® XC-95/3 (C ₁₄ alkyl chain, sold by the company Rhodia Chimie) , Esaflor HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain, sold by Lamberti), RE210-18 (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain, sold by Rhodia Chimie); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, for example ^Antaron® or ^Ganex® V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymers), ^Antaron® or ^Ganex® V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymers) sold by the company ISP; copolymers of methacrylates, C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl acrylates or amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; or copolymers of methacrylates, acrylates or hydrophilic or hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the copolymer of polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate.

Associative polyurethanes can also be chosen in various embodiments. As used herein, "associative polyurethanes" are sequentially nonionic copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences usually of polyoxyethylene nature, and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic sequences and / or aromatic. The associative polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from C ₆ to C ₃₀ carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains being optionally pendant chains or end chains. of a hydrophilic sequence. For example, it is possible that one or more dangling chains are provided. Additionally, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end of a hydrophilic block or both. The associative polyurethanes can be arranged in triblock or multiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can thus be at the end of the chain (for example, a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and within the chain (for example, a multiblock copolymer). These polymers can also be graft polymers or dense star polymers (“starburst polymers”). In one embodiment, the associative polyurethanes can be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.

In other embodiments, the associative polymers of the polyurethane polyether type which can be used include the C ₁₆ -OE120-C ₁₆ polymer from Servo Delden (under the trade mark SER AD FX1100), which is a molecule containing a urethane and having a mass average molecular mass of 1300, OE being an oxyethylene unit; ^Nuvis® FX 1100 (European and US INCI name “Steareth-100/PEG-136/HMDI Copolymer” sold by the company Elementis Specialties); Acrysol RM ^184® (sold by the company Rohm and Haas); Elfacos ^® T210 ^® (C ₁₂ to C ₁₄ alkyl chain); ^{Elfacos® T212®} (C ₁₈ alkyl chain) sold by the company Akzo; ^Rheolate® 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox; ^RHEOLATE® 208 or 204, or ^RHEOLATE® FX1100 sold by the company Elementis; or DW 1206B sold by Rohm & Haas containing a C ₂₀ alkyl chain with a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water.

In additional embodiments, solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium, can be chosen. Examples of such polymers include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035, and SER AD 1070 from Servo Delden, and Rheolate ^® 255, Rheolate ^® 278, and Rheolate ^® 244 sold by Rheox. Additional examples include Aculyn™ 46, DW 1206F, and DW 1206J, Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rohm & Haas, and ^Borchi® Gel LW 44 from Borchers.

In additional embodiments, the thickening agent can be chosen from nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the amide type, for example, the polyacrylamide products sold under the trade names ^Cyanamer® P250 by the company CYTEC.

In additional embodiments, the thickening agent selected from polymers of natural origin may include thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit, for example nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with C hydroxyalkyl groups₁to C₆; biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan gum (also known as sclerotium gum) or xanthan gum; gums derived from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, ceratonia siliqua gum or cyamopsis gum tetragonoloba (guar); pectins; alginates; starches; hydroxyalkyl (C₁To VS₆) cellulose; or the carboxyalkyl (C₁to C₆) cellulose.

In certain embodiments, the nonionic unmodified guar gums can be chosen from Guargel D/15 sold by the company Noveon, Vidogum GH 175 sold by the company Unipectine, Meypro-Guar 50 sold by the company Meyhall, or Jaguar ^® C sold by Rhodia Chimie. In other embodiments, the nonionic modified guar gums can be chosen from ^Jaguar® HP8, HP60, HP120, DC 293 and HP 105 sold by the companies Meyhall and Rhodia Chimie or Galactasol™ 4H4FD2 sold by the company Ashland.

In other embodiments, the thickening agents can be chosen from scleroglucans, for example Actigum™ CS from Sanofi Bio Industries; ^Amigel® sold by the company Alban Muller International; xanthan gums, for example Keltrol ^® , Keltrol ^® T, Keltrol ^® Tf, Keltrol ^® Bt, Keltrol ^® Rd, and Keltrol ^® Cg sold by the company CP Kelco, Rhodicare ^® S and Rhodicare ^® H sold by the company Rhodia Chimie ; starch derivatives, for example ^Primogel® sold by the company Avebe; hydroxyethylcelluloses such as Cellosize ^® QP3L, QP4400H, QP30000H, HEC30000A and Polymer PCG10 sold by the company Amerchol, Natrosol™ 250HHR, 250MR, 250M, 250HHXR, 250HHX, 250HR, and 250 HX, sold by the company Hercules, or Tylose ^® sold by the Hoechst company; hydroxypropylcelluloses, for example KlucelTM EF, H, LHF, MF, and G, sold by the company Ashland; carboxymethylcelluloses, for example Blanose ^® 7M8/SF, 7M, 7LF, 7MF, 9M31F, 12M31XP, 12M31P, 9M31XF, 7H, 7M31, and refined 7H3SXF, sold by the company Ashland, Aquasorb ^® A500 sold by the company Hercules, Ambergum ^® 1221 sold by the company Hercules, ^Cellogen® HP810A and HP6HS9 sold by the company Montello and ^Primellose® sold by the company Avebe.

In other embodiments, the modified nonionic guar gums can be modified, for example, with C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups. Such hydroxyalkyl groups can be selected from hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups.

In certain embodiments, guar gums can be prepared by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. . The hydroxyalkylation ratio, which is the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed to the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum, can in some embodiments range from about 0.4 to about 1 ,2.

Examples of nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, include those sold under the trademarks Jaguar ^® HP8, Jaguar ^® HP60, Jaguar ^® HP120, Jaguar ^® DC 293, and Jaguar ^® HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie , and under the trade name Galactasol™ 4H4FD2 by the company Ashland.

In other embodiments, the guar gum can be chosen from those modified with a quaternary ammonium group, such as hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, also sold under the trade name ^Jaguar® C-13S by the company Rhodia Chimie.

In other embodiments, the celluloses can be chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses, such as those sold under the trade names KlucelTM EF, KlucelTM H, KlucelTM LHF, KlucelTM MF, KlucelTM G, by the company Ashland and under the name commercial CellosizeTM PCG-10 by the company Amerchol.

In other embodiments, non-limiting thickening polysaccharides can be selected from glucans; modified or unmodified starches such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as lupine, or tubers such as potato or cassava; amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses or their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans , glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids or pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agar-agars, arabic gums, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, carob, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives such as hydroxypropylguar, or mixtures thereof.

In other embodiments, the thickening agent can be chosen from silicas or hydrophobic silicas, such as those described in document EP-A-898960. Examples of such silicas include those sold under the trade name Aerosil ^® R812 by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL ^® TS-530, CAB-O-SIL ^® TS-610, CAB-O-SIL ^® TS-720 by Cabot, or ^Aerosil® R972 and ^Aerosil® R974 by Degussa; clays, such as montmorillonite; modified clays such as bentones, for example stearalkonium hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite; or polysaccharide alkyl ethers, the alkyl group of which optionally has 1 to 24 carbon atoms, for example 1 to 10 carbon atoms, 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or 1 to 3 carbon atoms, such as those described in EP-A-898958.

In certain embodiments, when an anionic thickening agent is used, it is generally neutralized before being included in, or added as such to the cosmetic hair compositions of the disclosure. Such an anionic thickening agent can be neutralized using traditional neutralizing agents such as alkanolamines, eg, monoethanolamine and diethanolamine; aminomethyl propanol; basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine; or ammonium compounds and their salts. The anionic thickening agent can also be neutralized by a latex polyurethane polymer having at least one free amino group.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is chosen from cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, sodium salts optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, poly(acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate), glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the thickening agent in the cosmetic compositions for hair of the present invention comprises a starch derivative chosen from the compounds of the following formulas:

formulas in which:

St-O represents a starch molecule,

the Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

the R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group,

n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,

the Ms, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K or Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,

R” represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch such as, in particular, corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. The starch hydrolysates mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

The starches of formula (I) or (II) are used in particular. Starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, i.e. the starches of formula (I) or (II) in which R, R′ and R″ represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2, are used more preferably.

A preferred starch derivative is known under the INCI name modified potato starch sold under the trade name ^STRUCTURE® SOLANACE by AkzoNobel.

The starch derivative may be present in the cosmetic compositions for hair of the invention in an amount ranging from approximately 0.05% to approximately 3%, preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.5%, and most preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose) and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (also known as HPMC), cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gums, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate/acrylate copolymers, carbomers, polyacrylates , modified potato starch, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, modified potato starch and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is chosen from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent comprises xanthan gum and sclerotium gum.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent includes xanthan gum in an amount of about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent includes sclerotium gum in an amount of about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is present in a total amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition for hair. In some cases, the total amount of the at least one thickening agent is about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight , about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, about 0.1 to about 1.5 wt%, about 0.2 to about 1.4 wt%, about 0.25 wt% to about 1.3 wt%, about 0 .3 to about 1.0% by weight, or about 0.3 to about 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition, including all ranges and subranges included.

Neutralizing agents

The cosmetic compositions for hair of the present invention may additionally comprise at least one neutralizing agent, in which the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, carbonates of alkali metal, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof,

Organic amines can be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl group bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.

Organic amines can also be chosen from cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms in the ring, and mixtures thereof.

The organic amines can be chosen from those having a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of more high basicity.

The organic amines can also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and their derivatives.

Alkanolamine compounds that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol (aminomethyl propanol), and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Other examples include but are not limited to: 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

In certain embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. In addition to histidine, which has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may also be made in a non-limiting manner of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are selected from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in this disclosure include but are not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and whale.

In certain embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type which can be used in the present disclosure include, in addition to arginine which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine , N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

The alkali metal phosphates and carbonates which can be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their derivatives.

The neutralizing agents can also be chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxide, transition metal hydroxide, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, cesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, hydroxide barium, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminum hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and their mixtures.

According to at least one embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/sulfamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine , monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids. Thus, in certain embodiments, the at least one amino acid of the present disclosure can serve as a neutralizing agent in the compositions of the present disclosure.

By way of non-limiting examples, the amino acids that can be used can be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for example, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in their neutral or ionic form.

Again by way of non-limiting examples, the amino acids can be chosen from basic amino acids comprising at least one additional amine function optionally included in a cycle or in a ureido function.

Amino acids which may be used in this disclosure include, but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, ornithine, citrulline, and valine.

In one embodiment, the at least one amino acid of the present disclosure includes one or more of arginine, serine, cysteine, glutamic acid and amino acid derivatives such as glutaric acid which may also serve as a neutralizing agent in the cosmetic hair compositions of the present disclosure.

The at least one neutralizing agent may be present in an amount of 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 4% by weight. weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges included.

Auxiliary ingredients

The cosmetic compositions for hair according to the invention may also comprise any auxiliary ingredient usually used in the field considered, chosen, for example, from conditioning agents, natural and synthetic oils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, dyes, pigments , chelating agents, salts, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.

These are routine operations for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of the additives present in the cosmetic compositions for hair in accordance with the invention, so that the cosmetic properties and properties of desired stability thereof are not affected.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one chelating agent. Preferred ranges of chelating agent are 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight of each composition. Chelating agents are EDTA, HEDTA, and sodium or potassium salts, and mixtures thereof.

pH

The pH of the cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention can range from less than 7, or from about pH 3 to about 7, or from about pH 3 to about 6, or from about pH 3 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 3 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 3.5 to approximately 4.5 including all ranges and subranges included.

The desired pH can be achieved using one or more of the neutralizing agents described above.

Water

The cosmetic compositions for hair according to the invention comprise water. The water used can be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime, and/or natural thermal or mineral water, for example: Vittel water, Vichy Basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water , water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Néris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizières, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux-Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avène. The water may also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., restoring the characteristics of thermal water.

The cosmetic composition for hair according to the invention may comprise water in an amount ranging from approximately 50% to approximately 99% by weight, preferably from approximately 65% to approximately 95% by weight, and preferably between all from about 70% to about 92% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic hair composition.

Hair Treatment Methods/Processes

In one embodiment, the process for modifying the shape and color of hair with the cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention comprises the following steps:

a) applying a lightening composition to the hair;

b) rinsing the hair;

c) applying the hair shaping or modifying composition at least once to the hair;

d) pause for a duration such as about 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, or 30 minutes;

e) drying (up to 100% drying), while optionally applying a smoothing action to the hair;

f) applying a straightening iron to the hair, preferably set at a temperature ranging from about 100°C to about 250°C or from about 110°C to about 230°C or from about 110°C to about 210°C or about 120°C to about 200°C or about 150°C to about 190°C, or about 190°C to about 230°C, including ranges and subranges included, or at a temperature of about 230°C or about 225°C or about 220°C or about 210°C or about 200°C or about 190°C or about 180°C or about 150°C or about 100 ° C and preferably at about 230 ° C;

g) application of a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair, the oxidizing agent being preferably chosen from peroxide compounds such as hydrogen peroxide;

h) rinsing the hair.

In one embodiment, steps c) to g) can be repeated over a period of several weeks.

In various embodiments of the invention, the period of several weeks is about 2 weeks or 15 days or about 2.5 weeks, or about 3 weeks.

In one embodiment of the invention, the period of several weeks is 2 weeks or 15 days.

The smoothing action can be driven by brushing or combing or running fingers through the hair.

Drying hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature up to about 200°C can be accomplished by drying the hair with a blow dryer device or by using other heat sources such as a straightening iron, hair dryer, infrared lamp, heating rod, or other similar devices.

When the above method includes step e), the hair straightener can be used at a temperature of about 100°C, or ranging from about 100°C to about 250°C or about 110°C to about 230°C or from about 110°C to about 210°C or from about 120°C to about 200°C or from about 150°C to about 190°C, or from about 190°C to about 230°C, inclusive of ranges and subranges, or at a temperature of about 230°C or about 225°C or about 220°C or about 210°C or about 200°C or about 190°C or about 180°C or about 150°C or about 100°C and preferably at about 230°C.

In various embodiments, the straightening iron is passed over the hair at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 or more times, for example, up to 20, 30, 40, 50, 75, or 100 times.

In various embodiments, the neutralizing composition is left on the hair for a time ranging from about 1 minute to about 1 hour; about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or about 10 minutes.

The hair treatment composition can be applied to the hair using an applicator device or with the hands or gloved hands or with the fingers. A suitable applicator device is an applicator brush or an applicator comb or an applicator spatula or a dispenser or an applicator tip attached to the container containing the composition.

The method/process in accordance with the present disclosure may be followed by or preceded by the use of rinse-out compositions for washing and/or conditioning the hair, such as a shampoo or conditioner.

The cosmetic effects imparted by the cosmetic hair compositions and concomitant hair treatment methods of the present disclosure can be assessed by visually estimating the appearance of hair after hair treatment according to the methods of the disclosure. Another type of evaluation may also involve hair sensory evaluations.

Examples

The following examples are intended to be non-restrictive and illustrative only, the scope of the invention being defined by the claims. An example of comparative compositions is as example 1 and compositions according to the present invention are as examples 2 to 10.

The amounts of ingredient in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition/formula.

Example 1: Compositions

FUNCTION US INCI
Example 1
pH=3.5 Example 2
pH=3.5 ACTIVE COMPOUND THIOLACTIC ACID 8.0 3.0 ACTIVE COMPOUND ARGININE - 2.0 SURFACTANT COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE - 0.95 SURFACTANT BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3.2 3.2 POLYMER XANTHAN GUM AND SCLEROTIUM GUM 1.3 1.3 ACTIVE COMPOUND AMINOMETHYL PROPANOL 3.0 - CHELATING EDTA 0.2 0.2 SILICONE DIMETHICONE AND AMODIMETHICONE 2.0 - SOLVENT ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.7 0.7 SURFACTANT CETEARYL ALCOHOL 5.0 5.0 SURFACTANT STEARETH-20 1.0 1.0 VARIOUS ONE OR MORE OF FRAGRANCE, SALT, CONDOMS < 3.0 < 3.0 SOLVENT WATER Qs 100 Qs 100

Example 1A

Inventive compositions

EX. 3 EX. 4 EX. 5 EX. 6 EX. 7 EX. 8 EX. 10 FUNCTION
US INCI
pH=
3.5 pH=3.5 pH=3.5 pH=3.5 pH=3.5 pH=3.5 pH=3.5 ACTIVE COMPOUND THIOLACTIC ACID 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 1.0 ACTIVE COMPOUND ARGININE 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 0.7 SURFACTANT COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 SURFACTANT BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 POLYMER XANTHAN GUM AND SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 CHELATING EDTA 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 SILICONE DIMETHICONE 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 SOLVENT ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 SURFACTANT CETEARYL ALCOHOL 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 SURFACTANT STEARETH-20 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 VARIOUS ONE OR MORE OF FRAGRANCE, SALT, CONDOMS < 3.0 < 3.0 < 3.0 < 3.0 < 3.0 < 3.0 < 3.0 AMINO ACIDS OR DERIVATIVES OF AMINO ACIDS SERINE AND/OR CYSTEINE AND/OR GLUTARIC ACID AND/OR GLUTAMIC ACID 2.0 2.0 10.0 5.0 1.0 2.0 - SOLVENT WATER Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100

Example 2

An in vivo test was performed on human volunteer hair to compare integrity performance on selected sections of hair as follows:

1) bringing the hair into contact with the inventive formula of Ex. 2 + hair lightening;

2) bringing the hair into contact with the comparative formula of Ex. 1 + hair lightening; And

3) bringing the hair into contact with a lightener alone.

The volunteers were 12 women, with lightened hair/medium to high degree of damage. The formulas and lightening treatment were applied to 3 separate strands or bundles of hair from root to tip that were selected from the mid-back portion of each volunteer's head.

A strand of hair that had not been treated with any formula (only with lightener) was used as a control.

During the test, the volunteers made four visits to the laboratory: 1 ^st lightener + 2 ^nd TLA + 3 ^rd TLA + 4 ^th lightener.

The lightening hair treatment protocol ( ^1st and ^4th visits) consisted of:

(1) application of a neutral shampoo to the hair strands;

(2) powder highlighter mix + 40 parts developer containing oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide) (1:1.5 ratio);

(4) applying the lightening-developing mixture to the hair;

(5) wait for about 50 minutes (pause time) (on sheet)

(6) thorough rinsing of the hair;

(7) removing excess water with a towel.

The TLA hair treatment protocol ( ^2nd and ^3rd visits) consisted of:

a) applying a lightening composition to the hair;

b) rinsing the hair;

c) applying the hair straightening composition at least once to the hair;

d) break for about 30 minutes;

e) blow drying (100% dried)

f) application of a straightening iron to the hair (210°C to 230°C);

g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair;

h) rinsing the hair.

The results observed during the test are as follows:

2 ^nd visit: Ex. 1 showed a higher level of damage after the 1 ^st application, some cases of wick retraction during the waiting time for neutralization having been observed.

3 ^rd visit: during the 2 ^nd application, more cases of retraction with Ex. 1 and a few cases with Ex. 3 (rare cases at a very high level of hair damage).

^4th visit: Ex. 1 still showed a lower level of damage and damage from the roots in most volunteers. Ex. 2 showed more tip damage with fewer cases of breakage.

DAY 0 DAY 7 DAY 37 DAY 45 Example 2 Good level of resistance Good level of resistance Good level of resistance/shrinkage during the neutralization stage (
some cases) Good level of resistance on
the roots, some cases of higher damage along the length.
All volunteers with tip damage and rare cases of breakage Example 1 Good level of resistance Good level of resistance/shrinkage during the neutralization step
(a few cases) some cases of breakage / more cases of shrinkage during the neutralization step High level of damage, most
case from the roots. Many of them with breaks Witness Good level of resistance Good level of resistance on the roots and length, some cases of damage on the tips and rare cases of breakage

As a conclusion, it can be verified that even at lower amounts of TLA, when TLA is combined with amino acid and amphoteric surfactant, the invention still worked very well in modifying hair shape, i.e.- i.e., straightening the hair while at the same time providing better integrity to the hair (less breakage).

In addition, compositions with lower amounts of TLA (Ex. 2) showed less damage starting with the roots, compared to compositions containing higher amounts of TLA (Ex. 1).

Example 3

In order to demonstrate the mechanical properties of the hair which was treated with the cosmetic hair composition of Ex. 1 and Ex. 2, tensile tests were carried out using a tensile testing machine. miniature (MTT for "Miniature Tensile Test") Dia-stron which can test up to 100 samples automatically in dry or wet conditions. The tensile force is measured during an elongation until the break of each fiber and then it is normalized according to the dimensions of the sample in order to calculate the stress.

An analysis of the stress/strain curves makes it possible to determine the following main parameters:

• Young's modulus E, which characterizes the stiffness of the material in the elasticity zone (slope of the tangent at the origin according to Hooke's law for elastic materials);
• stress at 15% deformation σ15%: stress measured in the plastic deformation phase (irreversible deformation of the material);
• stress at 25% strain σ25%: stress measured at the post-plastic plateau threshold;
• stress and strain at breakage σcassure and εcassure: stress and strain when the hair breaks (the higher the stress, the more the hair is “resistant” to breakage).

In particular, to carry out the test, the equipment used was the Dia-stron extensometer, type MTT model, the fiber section measuring device, and the Dia-Stron FDAS765. The tensile test was carried out under dry or wet conditions.

Dry Tensile Test: Measurements were performed in a controlled humidity environment either in a controlled glove box or in an air conditioned room. Typically applied conditions are approximately 24°C – 50% RH (these can be adjusted according to test requirements). The specimens to be analyzed must be kept in stable conditions at least overnight before carrying out the measurements.

Wet tensile test: measurements were carried out in water. The specimens are therefore immersed in distilled water for at least half an hour before measurement and during the measurement. For this test, humidity is not a factor.

In conclusion, it was observed that the hair fibers treated with the composition of Ex. 2 exhibited better resistance to elastic deformation than the hair fibers treated with the composition of Ex. 1.

Moreover, the composition of Ex. 2 had a lower impact on hair fiber integrity compared to the composition of Ex. 1.

The terms "comprising", "having", and "including" are used in their broad, non-limiting sense.

The terms "a", "an", "the", "the" are understood to include the plural as well as the singular.

The compositions and methods of this disclosure may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of this disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or comma described here that falls within a range described here can be used as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. Further, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, and a combination of sub-ranges therebetween. Thus, a range of 1-5, specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. .

Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning to +/- 5% the number indicated.

As used herein, the term "at least one" is interchangeable with the term "one or more" and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term "active ingredient" as used herein in relation to the amount in percent of an ingredient or raw material, refers to an activity of 100% of the ingredient or raw material.

“Cosmetically acceptable” means that the element in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For example, "a cosmetically acceptable carrier" means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.

The expressions “hair care” or “hair cosmetic” are interchangeable with the expression “hair treatment” within the meaning of this disclosure.

Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. However, the list of counterions is not limiting.

The term "inclusive" for a concentration range means that the limits of the range are included in the defined interval.

All components and elements presented positively in the disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions (nanoemulsions) of the present disclosure can be devoid or essentially devoid of all the components and elements mentioned positively throughout the present disclosure.

Some of the various component categories identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid can be characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve only as the nonionic surfactant or only as the fatty compound (the single fatty acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty compound). fatty compound).

. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any cited publications or patent applications, this disclosure prevails.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition for hair, comprising:
(a) at least one reducing agent chosen from thiol-based reducing agents;
(b) at least one amino acid selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine;
(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, in which the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amido (C ₁ to C ₆ ) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphoacetate , alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphodiacetate, their salts, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the at least one reducing agent is present in an amount of 0.1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one reducing agent is chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid , thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthin, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine and their salts, alkali metal sulphites, alkaline earth metal sulphites, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one amino acid is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, and one of their mixtures. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 3 to 6. A process for altering the shape and color of hair, the process comprising the steps of:
a) optionally, applying a lightening composition to the hair;
b) optionally, rinsing the hair;
c) application of a cosmetic composition for hair at least once on the hair; wherein the cosmetic composition for hair comprises:
(a) at least one reducing agent chosen from thiol-based reducing agents;
(b) at least one amino acid;
(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, in which the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amiod (C ₁ to C ₆ ) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphoacetate , alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphodiacetate, their salts, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7;
d) pause for a certain period;
e) drying the hair (up to 100% drying);
f) applying a straightening iron to the hair;
g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair; And
h) rinsing the hair. Process according to claim 8, in which a lightening composition is applied to the hair before step c). Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, for shaping or modifying the shape of the hair or for straightening the hair, this composition comprising:
(a) from 0.1 to 4% by weight of at least one reducing agent chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and their salts;
(b) from 0.1 to 6.0% by weight of at least one amino acid, selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and mixtures thereof;
(c) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, chosen from alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) betaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amiodalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ )sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphoacetate, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphodiacetate, their salts, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the pH of the composition is 3 to 6;
wherein the percentage amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.