FR2949957A1 - COSMETIC SET OF MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIAL. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic kit for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials comprising at least: a container containing at least one solid cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, said composition comprising at least 3% by weight of phase greasy, and - an application device for applying the composition, provided with an applicator member having a suitable application surface, in response to its displacement in engagement with the keratin materials, to turn around at least one axis or a center of rotation.

Description

The present invention aims to propose a new mode of makeup and / or care of keratin materials and more particularly dedicated to the application of a solid composition in the form of a compact powder to a keratin material, in particular on the skin or the lips, and more particularly the skin.

In a general manner, the cosmetic compositions dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and more particularly of the face are applied according to the following mode: one or more point deposits of the composition are made in one or more localized zones of the face then this or these deposits are spread, usually finger or sponge, to cover the entire surface of the face.

For the following reasons, it would be advantageous to have a new mode of application of this type of make-up and / or care compositions. Firstly, this conventional application method does not ensure an applied film thickness that is homogeneous on all areas of the face. This homogeneity is even more difficult to obtain in the case of products formulated as a solid powder. Generally, the areas where the composition was punctually filed benefit from a greater thickness of makeup film. On the other hand, the areas of the face furthest from the aforementioned zone (s) are coated with a makeup film of smaller thickness. This inhomogeneity of deposit is generally revealed at the level of the makeup effect. For obvious reasons, it is not appreciated by the user. It is not particularly compatible with the manifestation of a so-called "natural" rendering in terms of makeup effect. Indeed, the application does not allow sufficient homogeneity to avoid traces. Furthermore, the user may encounter difficulty in taking a finger or sponge, a sufficient amount of product to be able to make up properly.

In addition, this mode of application can more particularly in the case of a spreading finger, pose a problem in terms of cleanliness, or even hygiene. Finally, users are always looking for new application technologies that are innovative in terms of implementation, visual effect provided by the type of makeup deposit they form, or even in terms of sensory sensations generated in moment of application. The present invention aims precisely to respond favorably to different expectations expressed above.

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup and / or care unit for keratin materials comprising at least: a container containing at least one solid cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, said composition comprising at least 3% by weight of fatty phase, and - an application device for applying the composition, provided with an applicator member having a suitable application surface, in response to its displacement in engagement with the materials keratinous, to rotate about at least one axis or center of rotation.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" a composition of high consistency, which retains its shape during storage. In contrast to so-called fluid compositions, it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below. By "compact powder" is meant in the sense of the invention, a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction or pressing during manufacture. The composition according to the invention may be a make-up and / or skin care composition, in particular of the face and / or of the body, and may constitute a blush, an eyeshadow, a powder for the face, an foundation, concealer, lipstick, body make-up product, facial or body care product or sunscreen product. More particularly, but not exclusively, the invention relates to a powder foundation composition. As regards the application device, it is not limited to a single application member variant. As can be seen from the appended figures, several alternative embodiments are conceivable insofar as they are compatible with a rotation of their application surface, around at least one axis or center of rotation, in response to a displacement of this surface in contact with the keratin material, usually the skin, to be treated. It is understood that this ability to rotate in response to a displacement of the application surface on a keratinous material is also verified during the displacement of this application surface on the solid composition to be taken for makeup purposes. With regard to the various embodiments proposed below, these movements on the keratinous material and on the solid composition can be manifested consecutively, as is the case of the variants illustrated in FIGS. 1 to 5, generally in chronological order. surface of the composition and then on the surface of a keratin material, but also simultaneously as is the case for the variant illustrated in FIG. 6, where the displacement of the application surface on the keratinous material initiates its displacement on the solid composition, the two movements then manifesting together. The applicator member may be defined by a roller, a ball or a strip disposed around two rollers having parallel axes of rotation. The application member is dedicated, on the one hand, to the removal of a part of the composition present in the associated container and, on the other hand, to the application of the composition thus taken from the surface of a material keratin. In a first step, the passage of the outer surface of the applicator member and more particularly of the roll, on the surface of the composition, causes the rotation thereof. The applicator member is then impregnated or coated with composition by friction and / or pressure.

In a second step, the consecutive passage of the external surface of the applicator member and more particularly of the roller, on the surface of a keratinous material, in particular of the skin of the face, causes the rotation of the latter and the spreading of the composition disposed on its outer surface. In an alternative embodiment, the application member may be provided with a removable brake which makes it possible to block or to brake, if necessary, its free rotation, during the sampling and / or the application. The outer face of the applicator member is formed at least on the surface of a material conducive to the removal of the cosmetic composition and its retention until its subsequent application to the skin.

For example, the application surface dedicated to contact with a keratin material may in particular be an open-cell foam or closed, possibly flocked, flocking, an elastomer, a sintered material, a woven material or a nonwoven material. The outer surface of the applicator member may be smooth or not. Thus, this applicator member may advantageously have on the surface, reliefs, generally curved and rounded advantageous to jointly provide a massage effect. According to a preferred variant, its aesthetics is similar to that of an applicator roll like those used for the application of paint. Such applicators used for cosmetic purposes are described in particular in documents FR 985 064 (lip mascara), FR 1 524 192 (powder), FR 1 281 338 (compact product), and FR 2 848 790 (solid cosmetic product or fluid). Thus, the applicator member is advantageously in the form of a roll, hollow or not, which rotates about an axis of rotation. This axis of rotation may advantageously be arranged perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis of the device. When the applicator member is a roller, the product may have a rectangularly shaped collecting surface having a dimension greater than the length of the roller, for example a width of between 1.01 and 1.2 times the length. of the roll. The bottom of the housing containing the product may be concave rounded, to facilitate the removal of the product until complete exhaustion, rolling the application member all along the housing containing the product.

The applicator member may or may not be integral with the container containing the composition during use or storage. According to a preferred variant, it is not secured. The container may also be integral with the applicator member during the application of the product to the keratin materials.

According to a preferred embodiment, the applicator device and the container are combined in the same packaging, for example the same housing provided with a base containing the product and having a housing for receiving the applicator and a movable lid. relatively to the base, for example articulated on it. As is apparent from the examples given below, the use of a rotary member for applying a solid composition on the surface of a keratinous material and more particularly the skin makes it possible to obtain a distinct makeup effect. from that obtained with a conventional applicator such as a sponge or a puff. In particular, the makeup effect obtained according to the invention is significantly improved in terms of deposit homogeneity. The film obtained can be very thin, uniform and without trace and gives a discreet, even natural makeup effect. It is also possible to lay layers (= layering) which allows to obtain a more covering makeup while retaining the benefits of an application and a consistent makeup result. It is then possible to carve the face for example by performing this layering only on certain parts or by also playing on the superposition or the juxtaposition of layers of different colors. Such an application device further makes it easy for the user to take an adjusted amount of compact powder composition to provide the proper makeup. During application, the applicator member can rotate without slipping on the skin. Several successive passages can be made at the same place, for example according to the desired color intensity. During successive passes, the user can slightly modify the rolling direction, in order to blur the edges of the product deposit. Moreover, the use of an application member according to the invention for depositing a solid composition on the surface of a keratinous material and more particularly of the skin, makes it possible to obtain a massaging effect on the skin. the skin, with a feeling of well-being. Thus, the implementation of the mode of application according to the invention proves on the one hand easy and on the other hand likely to provide pleasant sensory sensations for the user. According to another aspect, the invention relates to a process for makeup and / or care of a keratinous material, in which: a quantity of a solid composition is taken in the form of a compact powder, using an applicator member comprising an application surface adapted, in response to its displacement in engagement with the keratin materials, to rotate about an axis or a center of rotation, in particular as defined below, and the composition thus taken from said keratinous material is applied with the aid of said applicator member, said composition comprising at least 3% by weight of fatty phase.

Examples of Application Devices and Cosmetic Sets for the Implementation of the Invention Some examples, among others, of application devices that can be used are shown in the figures.

In the drawing: - Figure 1 shows schematically, in perspective, an example of a packaging device and application according to the invention, - Figure 2 shows the device of Figure 1, open housing, - Figure 3 represents the device of FIG. 1, with the application device removed, - FIG. 4 is a diagrammatic view, in elevation, of an embodiment variant of the applicator member, and FIGS. 5 and 6 show, in longitudinal section, partial and schematic, two other variants of application devices.

The packaging and application device 1, shown in FIGS. 1, 2 and / or 3, comprises a housing 2 comprising a base and a lid 4 movable relative to the base, this cover 4 possibly comprising a transparent window 5 making it possible to see the contents of the case when it is closed. The base 3 comprises a housing 6 receiving a product roll P in the form of compact powder and a housing 7 housing an application device 8, for taking the product P and apply it on human keratin materials. The applicator device 8 comprises a handle 9 and an applicator member 10 which can rotate relative to the handle 9, for example as illustrated around an axis of rotation X which can be oriented perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the handle. The latter may have a generally flattened shape, parallel to a plane containing the axis of rotation X. The application member 10 may be in the form of a roller, whose application surface may be cylindrical of revolution The application surface may be defined by any material capable of retaining the product and applying it, for example an elastomeric material or foam, with open or closed cells, or a flocked membrane. The material defining the application surface may be compressible.

The length of the applicator member 10 may correspond substantially to the width w of the product roll. The latter may have a rectangular shape, as illustrated. The housing 7 receiving the application device 8 may have a bottom 14 provided with a grid 14 and may have a slope 16 which holds the handle 9 slightly inclined upwards and towards the side of the housing, to facilitate the gripping by the user. A recess 18 can open into the housing 7 to facilitate the engagement of a finger to grip the handle 9. The housing 6 in which the compact powder P is present may be of parallelepipedal shape or have a rounded concave bottom which is a cylinder portion of generatrix parallel to the axis of rotation X when the application device 8 is moved to the surface of the product bread to load product. This can avoid the presence of recesses where the product could accumulate without being taken. The housing may comprise a clasp 20, which can be of any type.

In order to use the applicator device 8, the user can move the applicator member 10 one or more times on the product roll P by rolling it on the surface of the product roll and then applying it on the material keratin to be treated, for example the skin, by passing it one or more times on the area where the product is to be deposited. When moving on the skin, the application member 10 can roll without slipping. The invention is not limited to an applicator member which is in the form of a roller rotating about an axis of rotation. For example, as illustrated in FIG. 4, the applicator member 10 may be in the form of an applicator ball 10, which may be retained in a not shown cage, integral with a handle 9. example of Figure 4, the application member 10 can rotate all axes in its cage. In a variant shown in Figure 5, the applicator member 10 may be further defined by an applicator strip which can rotate about two rollers 25 and 26 of parallel axes of rotation. The portion of the strip 10 for application can move in contact with the skin, when the applicator 10 is moved in contact therewith to apply the product.

In a variant not shown, the axes of rotation of the rollers 25 and 26 are arranged such that the portion of the strip 10 which comes into contact with the keratin materials for the application of the product is not in contact with only one only roll, but between the two rollers.

In the variant shown in Figure 6, the product P is housed in a housing which remains integral with the application device 8 during the application of the product. The product P is for example in the form of a roll secured to a cup 31, biased against the applicator member 10 by a spring 32, for example of helical type as illustrated. In the example of FIG. 6, the applicator member 10 can take product from one side while applying it to the other. In non-illustrated variants, the application device 8 may be provided with a brake which makes it possible to brake or even immobilize the rotation of the applicator member 10 relative to the handle.

COMPOSITION As specified above, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition in the form of a compact powder. The compact powder according to the invention has a hardness and / or compactness such that it exhibits good sampling ability according to the process of the invention, with the aid of an application member according to the present invention. In particular, the compact powder according to the invention advantageously has a hardness less than or equal to 60 Shore, preferably less than or equal to 50 Shore, in particular ranging from 4 to 50 Shore, more particularly ranging from 8 to 50 Shore, more preferably from 10 to 35 Shore. The hardness measurement is carried out on the product generally in a dish, using a Zwick type durometer. It involves manually lowering a lever to lower a mobile connected to a force measurement system. When the entire surface of the mobile is in contact with the sample, the value of the hardness is read on the needle dial. This measurement is expressed in Shore. The mobile is a metal needle 1 mm in diameter. A cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase as a binder, present in a proportion of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, in particular comprising fatty substances, and intended to confer, in particular to the finished product a softness, an emollient property and to promote its adhesion on the keratinous material, in particular the skin. According to another aspect, a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent phase, comprising in particular fillers and optionally pigments.

FATTY PHASE The composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase, generally referred to as a binder. In particular, a compact powder composition according to the invention may have a fat phase content greater than or equal to 3% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 4% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 5% to 15% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below. According to one particular embodiment, the liquid fatty phase comprises an oil chosen from volatile and nonvolatile oils of hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated type. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. The oils may be present in the binder in a content ranging from 1% to 100% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 98% by weight, and preferably ranging from 30% to 95% by weight. The oil or oils may be chosen in particular from hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated oils. The oils can be volatile or nonvolatile. They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or nonaqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 at 300 mm Hg), and preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), 10 mmHg). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least a silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oils The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS® or PERMETHYLS®. Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and with, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 2% to 20% by weight.

Nonvolatile oils Nonvolatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, isostearate of physostearyl and lauroyl glutamate / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 at C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower oil, butter shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil of baobab, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil , rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, oil of macadamia, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwifruit seed oil, pomace oil Grape, Pistachio Oil, Pumpkin Oil, Pumpkin Oil, Quinoa Oil, Rosehip Oil, Sesame Oil, Soybean Oil, Sunflower Oil , castor oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or else caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane ; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1000R2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R 1 + R 2 is 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, sodium stearate, octyl, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; such as propylene dioctanoate glyco 1, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dietyl 2-hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate, and the like. octyldocecyl, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; esters of polyols and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the company Nippon FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, - copolymers of diol dimer and diacid dimer and their esters, such as dilinoleyl diol dimers / dilinoleic dimers and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G, copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or copolymer of dilinoleic acid / butanediol, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids C12-C22 urs, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS, - oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about In particular from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, and more preferably from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned oils chosen from: • lipophilic polymers, • linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, • esters hydroxyl, aromatic esters, esters of fatty alcohols or of C24-C28 branched fatty acids, silicone oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof. fluorinated oils which may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752, silicone oils such as non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), or cyclic; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the non-volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 25% to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, preferably ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, and preferably ranging from 50% by weight. % to 85% by weight.

Paste Compounds A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty compound. The presence of a pasty compound may advantageously confer improved comfort during the deposition of a composition of the invention. Such a compound may advantageously be chosen from lanolin and its derivatives; polymeric silicone compounds or not; polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinyl polymers, especially homopolymers of olefins; olefin copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group; homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups; homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, in particular C 2 -C 50; esters of acid or fatty alcohol; and their mixtures. Among the esters, there may be mentioned in particular: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, such as polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in the image, in particular, of those marketed under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol or such as polyacyladipate-2 bis diglyceryl; arachidyl propionate sold under the name Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as Risocast DA-H® products, and Risocast DA-L®; and their mixtures. The pasty compound, when present, may in particular be present in the compact powder composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the fat phase.

PULVERULENT PHASE The pulverulent phase comprises at least one filler, and advantageously also at least one pigment, in particular for the makeup compositions according to the invention. Fillers By "fillers" is meant any colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any form, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. The fillers may be inorganic or organic, of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon), poly (3-alanine and polyethylene) powders, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymer powders, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, bimuth oxychloride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel ° (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, microbeads of silicone resin (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, oxides of aluminum, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, use will be made of at least one filler chosen from kaolin, polyamide powders (nylon), acrylic acid copolymers, bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof. The charge (s) may be present in the compact powder composition according to the invention in a total filler content ranging from 50% to 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 70% to 85% by weight. % by weight, and preferably ranging from 75% to 80% by weight.

Peppers By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, the violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers, in particular lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments may be present in the compact powder composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 65% by weight. % by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight. When it comes to make-up products, a pigment content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, will generally be used. to the total weight of said composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an additional pulverulent dyestuff, different from the pigments described above, and may in particular be chosen from nacres and other interference pigments, flakes and their mixtures.

The nacres may be chosen from white nacres such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacres such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacres based on bismuth oxychloride.

The nacres may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight.

Additive of the pulverulent phase A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from a wax, a silicone resin, and mixtures thereof. Waxes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), with a solid / liquid state change. reversible, having in particular a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C, especially greater than or equal to 55 ° C, and up to 250 ° C, especially up to 230 ° C, and in particular up to 120 ° C.

By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by restoring the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed. The waxes may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the pulverulent phase, preferably from 1 to 8%.

The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute.

The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. By way of nonlimiting illustration of these waxes, mention may be made in particular of: - waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, vegetable waxes such as Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, mineral waxes, for example paraffin waxes, or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites, synthetic waxes, among which polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, silicone waxes, in particular polysiloxanes; linear substituted; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkyl methicones such as CaC-C45 alkylmethicone sold under the trade name "AMS C 30" by DOW. CORNING, hydrogenated oils that are concrete at 25 ° C such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters with 25 ° C., such as the C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name Kester KSH K82H by the company Koster Keunen, and / or their mixtures. According to one embodiment, the wax present in the composition according to the invention may be wholly or partially in powder form, in particular micronized, to facilitate its implementation in the preparation of the cosmetic composition. Among the waxes that can be used in the form of a powder, mention may notably be made of the Carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by the company Micro Powders and the paraffin wax microbeads sold under the name Microease 114S® by the company Micro Powders. Such micronized additional waxes make it possible in particular to improve the properties during the application of the composition to the skin.

Silicone resins According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one silicone resin. The silicone resins are hydrolysis and polycondensation products of siloxane mixtures of the formulas (R) 3 SiOCH 3 and Si (OCH 3) 4, where R represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. These silicone resins are known or can be prepared according to known methods. Among the commercially available silicone resins that may be mentioned include, for example, those sold under the names KSP 100 (SHIN ETSU). The silicone resin may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the pulverulent phase.

Other ingredients The composition may comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually used in cosmetics such as preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, thickeners, water, surfactants, perfumes, antioxidants . Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) added to the compact powder composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not or substantially unaffected by the intended addition. The compact powder composition of the invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the pulverulent phase and then adding the fatty phase with stirring, the mixture being then milled, screened, poured into a cup and compacted. In the case where there are grinding-sensitive fillers (eg nacres), these are added to the mixture after grinding. Then everything is mixed again and sieved, poured into a cup and compacted. The mixture of the pulverulent phase and the crushed and screened fat phase is compacted by means of a press, in particular by applying a pressure ranging from 20 bar to 300 bar, and preferably from 50 bar to 250 bar. The composition thus obtained is in the form of compact or pressed powder.

The invention is illustrated in the example presented below by way of nonlimiting illustration of the field of the invention: Unless otherwise indicated, the values in the example below are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLE 1 Ingredients / Trade references% by weight Kaolin 1 Boron nitride 16 Triisocetyl citrate 1.025 Isocetyl Stearate 2 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba wax) 1.5 Titanium dioxide 4 Titanium dioxide / zinc oxide / talc / 10 dimethicone copolymer and methicone sold under the reference TZ POWDER TYPE 2 by MIYOSHI KASEI Mica 9.48 Iron oxides 2.42 Bismuth oxychloride Copolymer of dilinoleic acid and 0.3 butanediol Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 10 cSt) 4.0885 sold under the reference XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 10CS by DOW CORNING Dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate sold 1.287 under the reference DOW CORNING 593 FLUID by DOW CORNING Polymethylcetyl dimethylsiloxane (MW: 900 0.7995 - Viscosity: 15-25 cSt) sold under the reference ABIL WAX 9801 by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT Cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane gum beads 10.45 coated with silsesquioxane resin (92/8) sold under the reference KSP 100 by Shin Etsu Sté Magnesium arate 5 Preservatives 0.65 Procedure: The composition was prepared by mixing all the powders (fillers and pigments) with the ribbon blender (300 rpm) and then adding the binder (oils); this mixture is then milled in a pin mill and sieved until a homogeneous mixture. 11.5 g of this mixture is placed in a cup and then pressed under a pressure of 180 bar. Results: The composition of Example 1 was applied to the face with an applicator as described in Figures 1 to 3.

The composition is preferably applied by long gestures on the flat surfaces (cheeks, forehead) and by shorter gestures and / or tapping on the raised areas (wings of the nose, contours of the eye). For the contour of the eye, short and perpendicular movements advantageously make it possible to obtain a better makeup result. The application device allows a good grip and is very handy: the application is fast and accurate on all areas of the face, including the eye area and the wings of the nose. Several successive passes of the applicator slightly modifying the rolling direction allow the product deposit to be reduced without obtaining any extra thickness. In addition, this application device provides a feeling of massage on the skin, associated with a feeling of well-being.

The makeup obtained is uniform and without trace, giving a "natural" rendering, a powdery effect, more velvety and more unifying in color and relief.

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic makeup and / or care set for keratinous materials comprising at least: a container containing at least one solid cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, said composition comprising at least 3% by weight of fatty phase, and an application device (8) for applying the composition, provided with an applicator member (10) having a suitable application surface, in response to its displacement in engagement with the keratin materials, to rotate around at least one axis (X) or a center of rotation. 2. Assembly according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition comprises a fatty phase content greater than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. 3. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises at least one liquid fatty phase, said liquid fatty phase comprising in particular at least one oil selected from volatile and non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated. 4. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one pulverulent phase, said pulverulent phase comprising in particular at least one filler and optionally at least one pigment. 25 An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises at least one filler selected from kaolin, polyamide powders, acrylic acid copolymers, bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof. 6. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron and chromium oxides. , manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, metallic powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder, carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers, and their mixtures. 7. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition further comprises at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase selected from waxes, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. 8. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition constituting a blush, an eyeshadow, a powder for the face, a foundation, a concealer, a lipstick, a makeup product of the body, a facial care product, a body care product or an antisolar product. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the application device is a roller. 10. An assembly according to the preceding claim, wherein the roller has an open or closed cell foam-like application surface, optionally flocked, flocking, elastomer, sintered material, woven or non-woven material. 11. A process for making up and / or caring for a keratinous material, in which: a quantity of a solid composition is taken in the form of a compact powder, using an applicator member comprising a application surface adapted, in response to its displacement in engagement with the keratin materials, to rotate about an axis or a center of rotation, and - is applied using said application member the composition thus taken on said keratinous material, said composition comprising at least 3% by weight of fatty phase. 12. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein said composition is as defined in any one of claims 2 to 8.