WO2011030309A1

WO2011030309A1 - Cosmetic kit for making up and/or for care of keratinous material

Info

Publication number: WO2011030309A1
Application number: PCT/IB2010/054089
Authority: WO
Inventors: Coralie Claude-Foly; Xavier Blin
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-09-11
Filing date: 2010-09-10
Publication date: 2011-03-17
Also published as: FR2949957B1; FR2949957A1

Abstract

The present invention provides a cosmetic kit for making up and/or for care of keratinous material, comprising at least: ° a container containing at least one solid cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, said composition comprising at least 3% by weight of fatty phase; and ° an applicator device (8) for applying the composition, the applicator device being provided with an applicator member (10) including an application surface (9) that is capable of turning about at least one axis (x) or center of rotation in response to being moved in engagement with the keratinous material.

Description

Cosmetic kit for making up and/or for care of keratinous material

The present invention seeks to provide a novel mode for making up and/or for care of keratinous material and more particularly intended for the application of a solid composition in the form of a compact powder to a keratinous material, in particular to the skin or the lips, more particularly the skin.

In general, cosmetic compositions intended for the care and/or for making up the skin and more particularly the face are applied using the following method: one or more dots of composition are deposited in one or more localized zones of the face, and then that deposit or those deposits are smoothed, generally with a finger or a sponge, to cover the whole surface of the face.

For the reasons given below, it would be advantageous to have at one's disposal a novel mode of application of that type of makeup and/or care composition.

Firstly, that conventional mode of application cannot guarantee that the thickness of the applied film is uniform over all zones of the face. That uniformity is even more difficult to achieve when the compositions are formulated as a solid powder. Generally, the zones in which the composition has been deposited as a dot benefit from a greater thickness of makeup film. In contrast, the zones of the face furthest from said zone(s) are covered with a thinner film of makeup. That non-uniformity in the deposit generally shows up in the finished makeup. For obvious reasons, that is not appreciated by the user. In particular, it is not compatible with the completed makeup having a look that is "natural". Application cannot in fact produce sufficient uniformity to be completely smooth.

Further, the user may encounter difficulties in removing a sufficient quantity of composition with a finger or sponge to be able to make up properly.

Furthermore, that mode of application, particularly when smoothing with a finger, can cause problems as regards cleanliness or even hygiene.

Finally, users are always looking out for novel application technologies that are innovative in terms of implementation and the visual effect achieved by the type of makeup deposit that they produce, or even in terms of the sensory sensations generated during application.

The present invention aims specifically at responding favorably to the various expectations expressed above. Thus, exemplary embodiments of the present invention provide a cosmetic kit for making up and/or for care of keratinous material, the kit comprising at least:

• a container containing at least one solid cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, said composition comprising at least 3% by weight of fatty phase; and

· an applicator device for applying the composition, the applicator device being provided with an applicator member including an application surface that is capable of turning about at least one axis or center of rotation in response to being moved in engagement with the keratinous material.

In the context of the present invention, the term "solid" means a composition with of consistency that is sufficient to retain its shape during storage. In contrast to compositions termed "fluid", it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by hardness as defined below.

The term "compact powder" as used in the meaning of the invention means a mass of composition of cohesion that is at least in part ensured by means of being compacted or pressed during manufacture.

The composition of the invention may be a composition for making up and/or for care of the skin, in particular the face and/or the body, and may constitute a blusher, an eye shadow, a face powder, a foundation, a concealer, a lipstick, a body makeup composition, a face or body care product or a sunscreen.

More particularly, but not exclusively, the invention provides a powder foundation composition.

The applicator device is not limited to a single variant embodiment of the applicator member.

As can be seen from the accompanying figures, several variant embodiments may be envisaged provided that they are compatible with rotation of their application surface about at least one axis or center of rotation in response to said surface being moved in contact with the keratinous material to be treated, generally the skin.

It should be understood that this aptitude to undergo rotation in response to the application surface being moved over a keratinous material also occurs during movement of said application surface over the solid composition to be taken for the purposes of making up. Having regard to the various embodiments proposed below, these movements over the keratinous material and over the solid composition may occur consecutively, as with the variant embodiments illustrated in Figures 1 to 5, generally in the chronological order of the surface of the composition and then the surface of a keratinous material, but also simultaneously, as with the variant embodiment illustrated in Figure 6 in which moving the application surface over the keratinous material initiates its movement over the solid composition, the two movements then occurring jointly.

The applicator member may be defined by a roller, a ball, or a band disposed about two rollers with parallel axes of rotation.

The applicator member is intended both to take a portion of the composition present in the associated container, and to apply the composition taken thereby to the surface of a keratinous material.

Firstly, passing the outer surface of the applicator member and more particularly of the roller over the surface of the composition causes the roller to rotate. The applicator member is then impregnated or coated with composition by rubbing and/or pressure.

Secondly, passing the outer surface of the applicator member, more particularly of the roller, consecutively over the surface of a keratinous material, in particular the skin of the face, causes the roller to rotate and smoothes the composition disposed on its outer surface.

In variant exemplary embodiments, the applicator member may be provided with a releasable brake that can block or brake free rotation thereof, if necessary, during removal and/or application.

The outer face of the applicator member is formed, at least on the surface, by a material that is capable of removing some cosmetic composition and of retaining it until it is subsequently applied to the skin.

For example, the application surface intended to come into contact with a keratinous material may in particular be a foam with optionally- flocked open or closed cells, a flocked material, an elastomer, a sintered material, a woven material, or a nonwoven material.

The outer surface of the applicator member may optionally be smooth. Thus, said applicator member may advantageously have surface portions in relief, that are generally domed and rounded, which portions are advantageous in providing a simultaneous massaging effect.

In preferred variant exemplary embodiments, its appearance is close to that of an applicator roller similar to that used for applying paint. Such applicators used for cosmetic purposes are described in particular in documents FR 985 064 (lipstick), FR 1 524 192 (powder), FR 1 281 338 (compact), and FR 2 848 790 (solid or fluid cosmetic).

Thus, the applicator member is advantageously in the form of a roller that may optionally be hollow and that rotates about an axis of rotation. Said axis of rotation may advantageously be disposed perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the device.

When the applicator member is a roller, the composition may have one surface intended for removal that is rectangular in shape, with a dimension greater than the length of the roller, for example a width in the range 1.01 to 1.2 times the length of the roller. The base of the recess containing the composition may be rounded and concave in order to facilitate removal of the composition, until it is exhausted, by rolling the applicator member along the whole length of the recess containing the composition.

The applicator member may optionally be integral with the container containing the composition during use or storage. In preferred variant exemplary embodiments, it is not integral therewith.

The container may optionally be integral with the applicator member during application of the composition to the keratinous material.

In preferred exemplary embodiments, the applicator device and the container are combined in the same packaging, for example the same case provided with a base containing the composition and having a recess for receiving the applicator and a cover that can move relative to the base, for example being hinged thereto.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the application surface of said applicator device is of the foam type, thereby different from plastic or metal materials generally used for rotating balls of roll-on dispensing systems, like roll-on deodorants and antiperspirants.

In an other particularly preferred embodiment, the applicator means are advantageously in the form of a roller, thus different from a rotating ball. In particular, the use of a roller presenting a larger application surface in contact with the keratinous material makes it possible to improve the quality of the final makeup, especially in terms of uniformity of the deposit.

As can be seen in the examples below, using a rotary means for applying a solid composition to the surface of a keratinous material, more particularly the skin, can produce a makeup effect that is distinct from that obtained with a conventional applicator such as a sponge or powder puff. In particular, the makeup effect obtained by the invention is significantly improved in terms of uniformity of the deposit. The film obtained may be very thin, uniform and smooth, and it may bestow a discrete or even natural makeup effect. It is also possible to superimpose layers (layering) to obtain a makeup that has better coverage while retaining the advantages of uniformity in application and in the resulting makeup. It is then possible to sculpt the face, for example by carrying out said layering only over certain portions, or also by adjusting the superposition or juxtaposition of layers with different tints.

Such an applicator device can also make it easier for the user to take a quantity of compact powder that is appropriate for producing a suitable makeup.

During application, the applicator member is capable of turning on the skin without slipping. Several passes may be made in succession at the same location depending, for example, on the intensity of color desired. During successive passes, the user may modify the direction of rolling a little in order to blend out the edges of the deposited composition.

Further, the use of an applicator member of the invention to deposit a solid composition on the surface of a keratinous material, and more particularly the skin, may produce a massaging effect on the skin with a sensation of well-being.

Using an applicator member of the invention proves to be easy and may also produce sensations that are agreeable to the user.

In further exemplary embodiments the invention provides a makeup and/or care method for a keratinous material, the method comprising the steps of:

• taking a quantity of a solid composition in the form of a compact powder with the aid of an applicator member including an application surface that is capable of turning about an axis or a center of rotation, in particular as defined below, in response to being moved in engagement with the keratinous material; and • applying the composition as taken in this way to said keratinous material with the aid of said applicator member, said composition including at least 3% by weight of a fatty phase. Examples of applicator devices and of cosmetic kits for carrying out the invention

The figures show some examples, inter alia, of applicator devices that may be used.

In the drawings:

· Figure 1 is a diagrammatic perspective view of an example of a packaging and applicator device of the invention;

• Figure 2 shows the Figure 1 device, with its case open;

• Figure 3 shows the Figure 1 device, with its applicator device removed;

• Figure 4 is a diagrammatic elevation view of a variant embodiment of the applicator member; and

• Figures 5 and 6 show two other variant embodiments of applicator devices, in diagrammatic, fragmentary longitudinal section.

The packaging and applicator device 1 shown in Figures 1, 2, and/or 3 comprises a case 2 including a base and a lid 4 that is movable relative to the base; said lid 4 may comprise a transparent window 5 allowing the contents of the case to be seen when the case is closed.

The base 3 includes a recess 6 receiving a cake of composition P in the form of a compact powder and a recess 7 accommodating an applicator device 8, acting to take the composition P and to apply it to human keratinous material.

The applicator device 8 comprises a handle 9 and an applicator member 10 capable of turning relative to the handle 9, for example and as shown, about an axis of rotation X that may be oriented perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis of the handle. This handle may have a shape that is generally flat parallel to a plane containing the axis of rotation X.

The applicator member 10 may be in the form of a roller with an application surface that may be a cylinder of revolution about the axis X. The application surface may be defined by any material capable of retaining the composition and of applying it, for example an elastomeric material or a foam with open or closed cells, or a flocked membrane. The material defining the application surface may be compressible.

The length of the applicator member 10 may correspond substantially to the width w of the cake of composition. This cake may be rectangular in shape, as shown.

The recess 7 receiving the applicator device 8 may have a bottom 14 provided with a grid 14 and may include a slope 16 that keeps the handle 9 inclined slightly upwardly and towards the side of the case, to facilitate grasping by the user. A cutout 18 may open into the recess 7 in order to facilitate engagement of a finger in order to pick up the handle 9.

The recess 6 receiving the compact powder P may be parallelepipedal in shape or may have a concave rounded shape that is a portion of a cylinder with a generator line parallel to the axis of rotation X when the applicator device 8 is moved over the surface of the cake of composition in order to load it with composition. This avoids the presence of corners where the composition could accumulate without being taken.

The case may include a clasp 20 that may be of any type.

To use the applicator device 8, the user moves the applicator member 10 one or more times over the cake of composition P by rolling it over the surface of the cake of composition and then applies it to the keratinous material to be treated, for example the skin, by passing it one or more times over the zone where the composition is to be deposited.

During movement over the skin, the applicator member 10 can roll without slipping.

The invention is not limited to an applicator member in the form of a roller turning about an axis of rotation.

As an example, as shown in Figure 4, the applicator member 10 may be in the form of an applicator ball 10, which may be retained in a cage, not shown, that is fastened to a handle 9. In the example of Figure 4, the applicator member 10 is capable of turning about any axis in the cage.

In a variant embodiment shown in Figure 5, the applicator member 10 can also be defined by an applicator band mounted to turn about two rollers 25 and 26 with parallel axes of rotation. The portion of the band 10 acting in application may be moved in contact with the skin when the applicator device 10 is moved in contact therewith to apply the composition.

In a variant embodiment, not shown, the axes of rotation of the rollers 25 and 26 are disposed in such a manner that the portion of the band 10 that comes into contact with the keratinous material in order to apply the composition is not in contact with only one roller but is between both rollers.

In the variant embodiment shown in Figure 6, the composition P is accommodated in a case that remains integral with the applicator device 8 during application of composition. The composition P is, for example, in the form of a cake secured to a pan 31 that is urged against the applicator member 10 by means of a spring 32, for example of the helical type as shown. In the example of Figure 6, the applicator member 10 can take composition from one side while applying it with the other.

In variant embodiments that are not shown, the applicator device 8 may be provided with a brake to brake or even prevent rotation of the applicator member 10 relative to the handle.

COMPOSITION

As illustrated above, the composition of the invention is a solid composition in the form of a compact powder.

The compact powder of the invention has hardness and/or compactness such that it is capable of being taken in accordance with the method of the invention using an applicator member of the present invention.

In particular, the compact powder of the invention advantageously has hardness less than or equal to 60 Shore, preferably 50 Shore or less, in particular in the range 4 to 50 Shore, more particularly in the range 8 Shore to 50 Shore, more preferably in the range 10 Shore to 35 Shore.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compact powder of the invention has hardness in the range 10 to 30 Shore, in particular in the range 10 to 25 Shore, more particularly in the range 10 to 20 Shore, and preferably in the range 10 to 15 Shore. The hardness of the composition is measured, generally in the pan, by using a Zwick type durometer.

Measurement consists of manually lowering a lever to cause a moving body connected to a force measurement system to be lowered. When the entire surface of the moving body is in contact with the sample, the value for the hardness is read from the needle dial. That measurement is expressed on the Shore scale. The moving body is a metal needle having a diameter of 1 mm [millimeter].

A cosmetic composition of the invention includes at least one fatty phase acting as a binder, present in a quantity of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, in particular comprising fats, and intended in particular to bestow the finished composition with softness, an emollient property and to encourage its adhesion to the keratinous material, in particular the skin.

In other exemplary embodiments, a cosmetic composition of the invention includes at least one pulverulent phase, in particular comprising fillers and optionally pigments.

FATTY PHASE

The composition of the invention comprises at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase, generally termed a binder.

In particular, a compact powder composition of the invention may have a quantity of fatty phase of 3% by weight or more, in particular 4% by weight or more, and more particularly in the range 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

In particular, a composition of the invention may include at least one liquid fatty phase, in particular at least one oil as mentioned below.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the liquid fatty phase comprises an oil selected from volatile and non- volatile oils of the hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated type.

The term "oil" means any fat in the liquid form at ambient temperature (20°C to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure. The oils may be present in the binder in a quantity in the range 1% to 100% by weight, preferably in the range 10% to 98% by weight, and more preferably in the range 30% to 95% by weight.

The oil or oils may, in particular, be selected from hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated oils.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

In the context of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that evaporates in contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having vapor pressure in the range 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10^~3 mm to 300 mmHg), preferably in the range 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 mm to 100 mmHg), and more preferably in the range 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 mm to 10 mmHg).

In the context of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil including at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oils

The volatile oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes (also termed isoparaffms), such as isododecane (also termed 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the commercial names ISOPARS^® or PERMETHYLS^®.

It is also possible to use volatile silicone oils as the volatile oils such as, for example, linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity <8 centistokes (8xl0^~6 m²/s), and in particular containing 2 to 10 silicon atoms, especially 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicon oils that may be used in the invention and that may be mentioned are dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 cSt to 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the volatile oil may be present in a quantity in the range 0.1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, preferably in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably in the range 2% to 20% by weight. Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and/or silicone oils.

Non- volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be mentioned in particular are:

• hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;

· hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as phytostearyl esters, for example phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl /octyldodecyl /phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides constituted by esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths from C₄ to C₃6, in particular from C₁₈ to C36, said oils possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; said oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, luzerne, poppy, Hokaido squash, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, or passiflora oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, cameline seed oil, canola oil, carrot oil, carthame oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coprah oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lys oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, hypericum oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, Hokaido squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soy oil, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by the supplier STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810^®, 812^® and 818^® by the supplier DYNAMIT NOBEL;

· linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and derivatives thereof, Vaseline, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

• synthesized ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

• synthesized esters such as oils with formula R₁COOR₂, in which Ri represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and

R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R₂ is > 10. The esters may, in particular, be selected from esters of alcohol and fatty acid, such as, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethyl hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, and hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate or di-isostearyl malate;

· esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate /tetraisostearate;

• esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5^® and Lusplan DD-DA7^®, sold in particular by the supplier NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338;

· copolymers of diol dimer and diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as copolymers of dilinoleyl diol dimers /dilmoleic dimers and esters thereof, such as, for example Plandool-G; • copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or the dilinoleic acid /butanediol copolymer;

• fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

• higher C12-C22 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; and di-alkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold in particular under the name CETIOL CC^® by the supplier COGNIS;

· oils with a high molar mass, in particular a molar mass from approximately

400 g/mol [gram per mole] to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 650 to approximately 10000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 750 g/mol to approximately 7500 g/mol, and more particularly from approximately 1000 g/mol to approximately 5000 g/mol. High molar mass oils that may be used in the present invention and that may be mentioned in particular are oils selected from:

• lipophilic polymers;

• esters of linear fatty acids with a total number of carbon atoms in the range

35 to 70;

• hydroxy lated esters;

· aromatic esters;

• esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols;

• silicone oils;

• oils of vegetable origin; and

• mixtures thereof;

· fluorinated oils optionally partially hydrocarbonated and/or siliconated such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones such as those described in the document EP-A-0 847 752;

• silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups that may be pendent or at the end of the silicon chain, groups containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, or 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; and

• mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the non-volatile oil may be present in a quantity in the range 25% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, preferably in the range 40%> to 90%> by weight, and more preferably in the range 50%> to 85% by weight.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone oil, in particular in a quantity greater than or equal to 2% by weight, especially in the range 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The presence of a silicone oil may advantageously promote the sliding quality during the application of the composition.

Preferably, said silicone oil is a non- volatile oil, in particular as described above and more particularly chosen among non- volatile polydimethylsiloxanes.

Paste compounds

A composition of the invention may further include at least one paste compound.

The presence of a paste compound may advantageously provide improved comfort during deposition of a composition of the invention.

Said compound may advantageously be selected from lanolin and derivatives thereof; polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds; polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinyl polymers, in particular olefin homopolymers; olefin copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo- or co-polymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group; homo- and co-polymeric oligomers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups; homo- and co-polymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble poly ethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, in particular C2-C50; esters of fatty acids or alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

The following esters may be mentioned in particular: • esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, in which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols has been reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially similar to those sold with reference Softisan 649 by the supplier Sasol or such as bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; arachidyl propionate sold in particular with reference Waxenol 801 by the supplier Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides; non cross-linked polyesters resulting from poly condensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a linear or branched C₄- C50 carboxylic polyacid and a C₂-C50 diol or a polyol; aliphatic esters of esters resulting from the esterification of an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid by an aliphatic carboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from esterification, by a poly carboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H^®, and Risocast DA-L^®; and mixtures thereof.

The paste compound, when it is present, may be present in particular in the compact powder composition of the invention in a quantity in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

PULVERULENT PHASE

The pulverulent phase includes at least one filler, and advantageously also at least one pigment, in particular for the makeup compositions of the invention.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a total quantity of fillers and/or pigments (pulverulent phase) greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 50 to 90%) by weight, in particular from 60 to 80%> by weight, and preferably from 70 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fillers

The term "fillers" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthesized, insoluble in the medium for the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. In general, the fillers present a mean size in number in the range from 1 to 50 μιη.

The fillers may be mineral or organic, of any shape, be they platelet, spherical or oblong, regardless of its crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon^®) poly-P-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon^®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those formed from polyvinylidene /acrylonitrile chloride, such as Expancel^® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls^® from the supplier Toshiba, for example), particles or gum beads of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, in particular coated with silicon resin (KSP 100 from the supplier Shin Etsu, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, and magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.

In preferred exemplary embodiments, at least one filler is used selected from kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon), copolymers of acrylic acid, bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof.

The filler or fillers may be present in the compact powder composition of the invention in a total quantity of fillers in the range 50% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 70% to 85% by weight, and more preferably in the range 75% to 80%> by weight.

Pigments

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one pigment.

The term "pigments" should be understood to mean particles in any form, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition. In general, the pigments present a mean size in number in the range from 100 nm to 1 μιη.

The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic. Mineral pigments that may be mentioned include titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated, oxides of zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or of chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, and copper powder.

Organic pigments that may be used that may be mentioned are carbon black, D & C type pigments and lakes, especially lakes based on carmine and cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.

Pigments may be present in the compact powder composition of the invention in a quantity in the range 0.1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 0.5% to 65% by weight, and more preferably in the range 1% to 60%> by weight.

With makeup compositions, in general a quantity of pigments in the range 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and in particular in the range 10%) to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition is used.

The composition of the invention may comprise an additional pulverulent colorant that is different from the pigments described above, and may in particular be selected from nacres and other interferential pigments, flakes and mixtures thereof.

The nacres may be selected from white nacres such as mica covered with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacres such as mica titanium covered with oxides of iron, in particular mica titanium covered with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica titanium covered with an organic pigment of the mentioned-above type and nacres based on bismuth oxychloride.

The nacres may be present in the composition in a quantity in the range 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 0.1%) to 40%) by weight, and more preferably in the range 0.1 % to 30%> by weight.

Lamellar particulate material

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lamellar particulate material. The term "lamellar particulate material" means a particulate material having one dimension that is much smaller than the other two. Such lamellar particulate materials most often have a thickness E that is much less than their length LI or their width L2.

Preferably, the ratio E/Ll and E/L2 is less than or equal to 0.5, preferably less than or equal to 0.3, preferably less than or equal to 0.1.

The mean thickness E of the lamellar particulate materials may lie in the range 0.1 micrometers (μιη) to 5 μιη, and preferably in the range 0.2 μι ίο 3 μιη.

The mean length LI of the lamellar particulate materials may lie in the range 1 μιη to 200 μιη, and preferably in the range 2 μιη to 70 μιη.

The mean width L2 of the lamellar particulate materials may lie in the range 1 μιη to 200 μιη, and preferably in the range 2 μιη to 70 μιη.

The lamellar particulate material used in the invention may organic or inorganic.

It may be colorless, being used by way of filler, or it may be colored so as to impart a color effect, being used by way of pigments, e.g. nacres.

Examples of lamellar particulate materials include fillers, pigments, in particular inorganic pigments, and nacres. It is possible to use lamellar pigments, lamellar fillers and/or lamellar nacres. Examples of lamellar fillers that are suitable for the invention and that may be mentioned are: talc; mica; barium sulfate; kaolin; precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; hydroxyapatite; lauroyl lysine; glass; polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) particles (such as Ceridust 9205 F by Clariant, or Fluoropure 103 C by Shamrock Technologies); boron nitride (Ceram Blanche 1 and Ceram Blanche by SPCI and PUHP by Saint-Gobain Ceramics); lamellar silica (SG Flake 3M by Maprecos and Chemicelen by Sumitomo); and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the lamellar fillers are chosen from kaolin, mica, boron nitride and mixtures thereof.

The lamellar fillers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, and even better from 10 to 20% by weight .According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, and even better from 10 to 20% by weight. Examples of lamellar nacres that are suitable for the invention and that may be mentioned in particular are: bismuth oxichloride; mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride; bismuth oxychloride and zinc oxide powder (such as Pearl II UCR by Farmaquimia); and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the lamellar nacre is a nacre made of bismuth oxychloride, in particular sold under the name BIRON LF 2000 by the company MERCK.

The lamellar nacres may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 3 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight.

Suitable inorganic pigments in lamellar form that may be used in the invention and that may be mentioned in particular are: titanium dioxides; zinc oxides; iron oxides; zirconium oxide; aluminum oxide; and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the inorganic pigments, in particular of metal oxides, present in the composition according to the invention are chosen form titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and/or iron oxide.

According to a particular embodiment, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two different pigments.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least a first pigment chosen from iron oxides and at least a second pigment chosen from zinc oxides and/or titanium dioxide.

The iron oxides may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight.

The zinc oxides may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight. The titanium dioxide may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight.

The lamellar particulate fillers and nacres may be present in the composition according to the invention in an total amount ranging from 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, even better from 40 to 60% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two lamellar particulate materials of a different nature.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two lamellar particulate materials of a different nature, one of the lamellar materials being chosen from lamellar nacres, and the other lamellar material being chosen from lamellar fillers.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one lamellar pigment and at least one lamellar filler.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lamellar nacre (preferably bismuth oxychloride) and at least two lamellar fillers (preferably mica and boron nitride).

In advantageous manner, lamellar particulate materials that are used in the invention present a refractive index that is greater than or equal to 1.7 and that are suitable for imparting good coverage after application of the composition to the skin. In particular, lamellar particulate materials which are used present a refractive index lying in the range 1.7 to 2.2. In particular, such lamellar particulate materials are: titanium dioxide (anatase 2.5 or rutile 2.7); iron oxides (2.9); boron nitride (> 1.74); bismuth oxychloride (2.15); aluminum oxide (1.74); zirconium oxide; and mixtures thereof.

In preferred embodiments of the invention, the lamellar particulate materials are selected from: bismuth oxychloride; boron nitride; and mixtures thereof.

Lamellar particulate materials which present a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.7 are generally present in the composition in an amount greater or equal to 20% by weight, in particular in the range from 30 to 80% by weight, in particular in the range from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one spherical filler, in particular at least one organic spherical filler.

The spherical filler may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 12% by weight.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least gum beads of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, in particular coated with silicon resin (such as KSP 100 by Shin Etsu).

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least 20% by weight of lamellar particulate materials, preferably in the range from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly of at least one lamellar pigment and at least one lamellar nacre and at least one lamellar filler.

Pulverulent phase additive

A composition of the invention may comprise at least one agent for structuring the liquid fatty phase selected from a wax, a silicone resin and mixtures thereof.

Waxes

The term "wax" in the context of the present invention means a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10⁵ Pa), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, in particular having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30°C, in particular greater than or equal to 55°C, and possibly up to 250°C, especially up to 230°C, and in particular up to 120°C.

By heating the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with the oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on reestablishing the temperature of the mixture at ambient temperature, the wax re-crystallizes in the oils of the mixture. The waxes may be present in the composition of the invention in a quantity in the range 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the pulverulent phase, preferably in the range l% to 8%.

The values for the melting point of the invention correspond to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the supplier METLER, with a temperature ramp-up of 5°C or 10°C per minute.

In the context of the invention, the waxes may be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermato logical fields. In particular, they may be hydrocarbons, silicone and/or fluorinated, optionally including ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

Illustrative, non-limiting examples of said waxes that may be mentioned in particular are:

• waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, vegetable waxes such as carnauba, candellila, ouricury, Japan wax;

• mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,

• synthetic waxes including polyethylene waxes, and the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis;

• silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of silicone polyether waxes, alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicones containing 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and alkyl methicones such as C30-C45 alkyl methicone sold under the trade name "AMS C 30" from the supplier DOW CORNING,

• hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25°C such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and fatty esters that are solid at 25°C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name "KESTER WAX K82H" by the supplier KOSTER KEUNEN,

• and/or mixtures thereof.

In exemplary embodiments, the wax present in the composition of the invention may be completely or partially in the powder form, in particular micronized, to facilitate its use in the preparation of the cosmetic composition. Examples of waxes that may be used in the powder form that may be mentioned are carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350^® by the supplier Micro Powders and paraffin wax microbeads sold under the name Microease 114S^® by the supplier Micro Powders. Such additional micronized waxes may in particular improve the properties during application of the composition to the skin.

Silicone resins

In particular exemplary embodiments, a composition of the invention may include at least one silicon resin.

Silicone resins are the products of hydrolysis and poly condensation of mixtures of siloxanes with formulae

and Si(OCH₃)₄, R representing an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Said silicone resins are known or can be prepared using known methods. Examples of commercially available silicone resins that may be mentioned are those sold under the names KSP 100 (SHIN ETSU).

The silicone resin may be present in a quantity in the range 0.1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the pulverulent phase.

Other ingredients

The compositions may comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) that are in routine use in cosmetics such as preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, moisturizing agents, UV filters, thickening agents, water, surfactants, fragrances or antioxidants.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is different from deodorant and antiperspirant formulations.

In particular, a composition of the invention may advantageously comprise less than 2% by weight of deodorant or antiperspirant actives relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight and more preferably is totally free of deodorant or antiperspirant actives.

Said actives that are termed "antiperspirant" or "deodorant" are well known to the skilled person. Antiperspirant or deodorant actives that may be mentioned include active salts such as aluminium or zirconium salts, bacteriostatic agents and bactericidal agents such as quaternary ammonium salts, etc. According to an other particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is different from a soap composition.

Clearly, the skilled person will be careful to select any adjuvants added to the powder compact composition of the invention in a manner such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition of the invention are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition.

The composition in the form of a compact powder of the invention may be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the pulverulent phase then adding the fatty phase with stirring, the mixture then being milled, sieved, then poured into a pan and compacted. When there are fillers that are sensitive to milling (for example nacres), these are added to the mixture after milling. Next, it is mixed again then sieved, poured into a pan and compacted.

The mixture of the pulverulent phase and the milled and sieved fatty phase is compacted using a press, in particular by applying a pressure in the range 20 bar to 300 bar, preferably in the range 50 bar to 250 bar. The composition obtained thereby is in the form of a compacted or pressed powder.

The invention is illustrated below in the examples below by way of non- limiting illustration of the field of the invention:

Unless otherwise indicated, the values in the examples below are expressed as a % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE 1

Ingredients /Commercial references % by weight

Kaolin (refractive index : 1.56) 1

Boron nitride/ SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE

POWDER CC6058 by Momentive Performance material 16 (refractive index > 1.74)

Triisocetyl citrate 1.025

Isocetyl Stearate 2

Copernicia Cerifera (carnauba wax) 1.5

Titanium dioxide/ non treated anatase (refractive index

4 :2.5)

Titanium dioxide /zinc oxide /talc /copolymer of

dimethicone and methicone sold under the reference TZ

10 POWDER TYPE 2 by MIYOSHI KASEI (refractive

index > 1.7)

Mica/ MICA 8 R 2041 by LCW (refractive index : 1.55) 9.48

Iron oxides (refractive index : 2.9) 2.42

Bismuth oxychloride/ RONAFLAIR LF 2000 by Merck

30 (refractive index : 2.15)

Copolymer of dilinoleic acid and butanediol/

0.3 VISCOPLAST 14436 H by Biosynthis

Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 10 cSt) sold under the

reference XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 4.0885 IOCS by DOW CORNING

Dimethicone /trimethylsiloxy silicate sold under the

reference DOW CORNING 593 FLUID by DOW 1.287 CORNING

Polymethylcetyl dimethylsiloxane (MPt: 900 - Viscosity:

15 cSt - 25 cSt) sold under the reference ABIL WAX 0.7995 9801 by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT

Cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane gum beads coated

10.45 with silsesquioxane (92/8) sold under the reference KSP 100 by Shin Etsu (spherical, refractive index : 1.41)

Magnesium stearate 5

Preservatives 0.65

Operating method:

The composition was prepared by mixing all of the powders (fillers and pigments) in a band mill (300 rpm [revolution per minute]) then adding the binder (oils) thereto; this mixture was then milled in a toothed roll crusher and sieved until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. 11.5 g of this mixture was placed in a pan and pressed at a pressure of 180 bar.

The composition has hardness in the range from 10 to 15 Shore. Results:

The composition of Example 1 was applied to the face with an applicator as described in Figures 1 to 3.

The composition was preferably applied with long movements over the flat surfaces (cheeks, forehead) with movements and/or by patting on high portion in relief zones (sides of nose, contours of the eye). For the contour of the eye, short perpendicular movements were advantageous in obtaining the best result for the makeup.

The applicator device was easy to hold and handle: application was rapid and precise over all zones of the face, including the contour of the eye and the sides of the nose. Several successive passes of the applicator, slightly modifying the direction of rolling, blended the deposit of composition without making it too thick. Further, this applicator device could produce a massaging sensation on the skin, associated with a sense of well-being.

The makeup obtained was uniform and smooth, giving a "natural" result; the effect was powdery and more velvety, with better unification of color and portion in relief.

Claims

1. A cosmetic kit for making up and/or for care of keratinous material, comprising at least:

· a container containing at least one solid cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, said composition comprising at least 3% by weight of fatty phase; and

• an applicator device (8) for applying the composition, the applicator device being provided with an applicator member (10) including an application surface that is capable of turning about at least one axis (X) or center of rotation in response to being moved in engagement with the keratinous material.

2. A kit according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition includes a quantity of fatty phase of 4% by weight or greater, more particularly in the range 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

3. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition includes at least one liquid fatty phase, said liquid fatty phase in particular comprising at least one oil selected from volatile oils and non-volatile hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated type oils.

4. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition includes at least one pulverulent phase, said pulverulent phase in particular comprising at least one filler and optionally at least one pigment.

5. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition includes at least one filler selected from kaolin, polyamide powders, copolymers of acrylic acid, bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof.

6. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition includes at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated, oxides of zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron and chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, and copper powder, carbon black, D&C type pigments, lakes, and mixtures thereof.

7. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition comprises at least 20% by weight of lamellar particulate materials, preferably in the range 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly of at least one lamellar pigment and at least one lamellar nacre and at least one lamellar filler.

8. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition further includes at least one agent for structuring the liquid fatty phase selected from waxes, silicone resins and mixtures thereof.

9. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition constitutes a blusher, an eye shadow, a face powder, a foundation, a concealer, a lipstick, a body makeup composition, a care product for the face, a care product for the body or a sunscreen.

10. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein the applicator device is a roller.

11. A kit according to the preceding claim, wherein the roller has an application surface of the optionally-flocked open or closed cell foam type, a flocked material, elastomer, sintered material, or woven or nonwoven material.

12. A makeup and/or care method for a keratinous material, the method comprising the steps of:

• taking a quantity of a solid composition in the form of a compact powder with the aid of an applicator member including an application surface that is capable of turning about an axis or a center of rotation in response to being moved in engagement with the keratinous material; and

• applying the composition as taken in this way to said keratinous material with the aid of said applicator member, said composition including at least 3% by weight of a fatty phase.

13. A method according to the preceding claim, wherein said composition is as defined in any one of claims 2 to 9.