FR2940074A1 - Lightening or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises applying anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising fatty substances and surfactants, composition comprising ammonium salts, and composition comprising oxidizing agents - Google Patents

Abstract

Lightening or coloring of keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises applying an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a cosmetic composition (B1) comprising one or more ammonium salts, and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, to the keratin fibers, when the process is for dyeing keratin fibers, the composition (B1) further comprises one or more oxidation dyes and/or direct dyes. An independent claim is included for a multi-compartment device comprising first compartment containing the composition (A), a second compartment containing the composition (B1) with one or more ammonium salts and optionally one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or their mixtures, and a third compartment containing the composition (C).

Description

B08-4314EN - SE OA 08550

Anonyme known as: L'OREAL PROCESS FOR LIGHTENING HUMAN KERATINIC FIBERS USING ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION AND DEVICE Invention of: HERCOUET Leila LAGRANGE Alain METHOD OF ENHANCING HUMAN KERATIN FIBERS USING AN ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION AND AN AMMONIUM SALT AND DEVICE

The subject of the present invention is a process for lightening keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair involving an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more ammonium salts and a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment which comprises the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A), a second compartment which comprises the cosmetic composition (B) and a third compartment which comprises the oxidizing cosmetic composition (C). The processes for lightening human keratin fibers consist in using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent under conditions of alkaline pH in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, it is customary to use peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. One of the difficulties encountered in carrying out the lightening processes of the prior art is that they are carried out under alkaline conditions by means of ammonia as an alkaline agent. The use of ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. Indeed, it makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow the degradation of the oxidizing agent. But this agent also causes swelling of the keratinous fiber, with flaking of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidant inside the fiber and therefore increases the efficiency of the reaction. However, this basifying agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic odor, rather uncomfortable ammonia that emerges during the process. In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the application of this agent in an amount greater than the amount necessary to achieve the lightening process to compensate for this loss.

This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp resulting in particular tingling. As for the option of purely and simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional alkalizing agents, this does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these alkalinizing agents do not lead to sufficient lightening of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent.

One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide processes for lightening human keratinous fibers which do not have the drawbacks of those used with the existing compositions, disadvantages caused by the presence of high levels of ammonia, but which remain at least as effective in terms of clarity and homogeneity of the latter. These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which relates to a process for lightening keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which: a) an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) is used; ) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants; b) a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more ammonium salts; c) a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. Thus, the implementation of the process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions which have lightening performance equivalent to or even greater than those obtained with the existing compositions, in particular with compositions based on ammonium hydroxide. Moreover, the process according to the invention makes it possible to produce compositions which do not emit an aggressive odor when they are applied to the hair or during their preparation. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising, in a first compartment, an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, in a second compartment, a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more several ammonium salts and in a third compartment, a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field. The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.

As indicated above, the lightening process is carried out in the presence of an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A). More particularly, the term "anhydrous cosmetic composition" in the meaning of the invention is intended to mean a cosmetic composition having a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight. % by weight relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that the water present in the composition is more particularly bound water, as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention . In addition, the process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of compositions comprising no direct dye or oxidation dye precursor (bases and couplers) usually used for dyeing human keratinous fibers or else they are present, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the weight of each composition. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say, one would not observe staining effect of keratin fibers.

Preferably, the process is carried out without oxidation base, coupler or direct dye. As has been mentioned, the anhydrous cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), that is to say with a solubility of less than 5%, preferably at 1% even more preferentially at 0.1%. They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

According to the invention, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, esters and the like. of fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones. It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. As regards the C6-C16 lower alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, and possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane. As oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene. triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam. fluorinated oils such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC 1" and "FLUTEC PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050" and "PF 5060" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052" by the company 3M. The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol may be mentioned; . The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above; mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic or monohydric acid esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, di, alcohols. , C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, 2940074 s tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and the like. especially alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and linear or branched C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri-, and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61 di-, tri-, and tetra- ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE.

The wax or the non-silicone waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, wax of rice, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s.

The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR5 ##

The cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture thereof, are also exemplified by mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds.

octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE oils of series 47 and 70,047 or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, oil 70047V500000; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. Particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSiO 3 / 2 and SiO4 / 2 wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; . the RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; . silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -alkyl groups; C24 such as the products called dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and alkyl (C12) -methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise C2-C3 oxyalkylene units or glycerolated units.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of plant origin, mineral or synthetic, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, silicones. Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof. The anhydrous cosmetic composition has a fatty substance content advantageously between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, and even more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition. . The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactants are more especially chosen from salts (in particular alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium), of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulphonates, α-olefin-sulphonates, paraffin-sulphonates; alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; salts of alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acyl lactylates; salts of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylarylether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - and their mixtures. It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds advantageously comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated, mono-or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated. By way of examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: • oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols, • linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 saturated or non-saturated alcohols, • C 8 amides, -C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated polyoxyethylenated linear or branched, and sorbitol, • oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, • condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, • or mixtures thereof. These surfactants have a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not include oxypropylene units. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from C 8 -C 30 alcohols, oxyethylenated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 acid esters, and sorbitol polyoxyethylenated. As an example of mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, are preferably used.

In particular, mono- or poly-glycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which R represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 8 alkyl or alkenyl radical; -C40, preferably C8-C30, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds that are suitable in the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

The alcohol can be a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 / C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 / C12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 mole of glycerol. Preferably, the surfactant present in the anhydrous composition is a nonionic surfactant.

The content of surfactant (s) in the anhydrous composition (A) is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition.

The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair lightening compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A).

The composition may comprise one or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.

The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-O-SIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by Cabot. The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified pyrogenic silica. When present, the mineral thickening agent represents from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The composition may also include one or more organic thickeners. These thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones with a fatty chain (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules). According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum). ), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose. The content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. Advantageously, the composition is in the form of a gel or a cream. The composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more ammonium salts. The ammonium salts which can be used in the composition (B) according to the present invention are the ammonium salts (NH 4 +). The ammonium salts which can be used in the composition (B) according to the present invention are preferably chosen from the salts of the following acids: acetate, carbonate, bicarbonate, chloride, citrate, nitrate, nitrite, phosphate, sulfate. In a particularly preferred manner, the ammonium carbonate will be used. Preferably, the composition (B) does not include persalts.

The ammonium salt (s) may be used in admixture with one or more solid or pasty adjuvants, and preferably pulverulent. The adjuvants may be chosen from clays, salts other than ammonium salts, anionic, nonionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, optionally modified starch, glass beads, silica, nylon, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono- or disaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates, talc, calcium borosilicates, polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates , polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, sawdust, fucus powder, cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, polyvinylidene chloride / acrylon particles itrile), especially those marketed under the general name of Expancel by the company AKZO NOBEL under the particular references Expancel WE or DE Expancels, and their mixtures. Advantageously, the composition (B) has an ammonium salt content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.

The composition (B) can be an anhydrous or aqueous composition. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition (B) is an aqueous composition. Preferably the composition (B) contains water. Even more preferably the water concentration can range from 10 to 90 better 20 to 80% of the total weight of the composition.

It may optionally include one or more organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (B), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. The cosmetic composition (B) may also comprise conventional additives such as those which have been listed previously for the composition (A), reference may be made to these lists. The pH of the cosmetic composition (B) if it is aqueous preferably between 8 and 11. The pH is adjusted by using acidifying or alkalinizing agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of the mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

All basifying agents can be used. Ammonia, although not preferred, can also be used. If ammonia is used as alkalinizing agent in the composition (B), then the ammonia content of the composition (B) is such that the ammonia content of the final composition is less than or equal to 0.03% by weight (expressed as NH 3), more particularly less than or equal to 0.01%. By final composition is meant the composition which results from the mixture of compositions (A), (B) and (C); this mixture being produced either before application on the keratin fibers (extemporaneous preparation) or directly on the keratinous fibers (successive applications with or without premixes and without intermediate rinsing). When the process is carried out by means of a premix of the compositions (A) and (B) or of an extemporaneous preparation obtained by mixing the compositions (A), (B) and (C), then the duration between the mixing and application to the hair preferably does not exceed 30 minutes, preferably 10 minutes, more preferably 5 minutes. Preferably, ammonia is not used as alkalinizing agent. Preferably, the composition (B) contains one or more ammonium salts as sole alkaline agent (s). Finally, the process is carried out with a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

More particularly, the oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for example alkali metal or alkaline persulfates, perborates and percarbonates; -terrous, as well as peracids and their precursors. This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide and especially in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide) whose concentration may vary, more particularly from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 0.5 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight of the oxidizing composition. Depending on the degree of lightening desired, the oxidizing agent may also comprise an oxidizing agent preferably chosen from peroxygenated salts. The oxidizing composition may be aqueous or non-aqueous. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the composition (C) is an aqueous composition. It may also include one or more organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (C), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. The oxidizing composition may comprise one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition (C), when aqueous, is less than 7.

The oxidizing composition (C) may also contain other ingredients conventionally used in the field, such as in particular those previously detailed in the context of the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) and the cosmetic composition (B).

Finally, the oxidizing composition (C) is in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel. According to a first variant of the invention, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of the anhydrous composition (A), of the composition (B) and of the composition (B), is applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet. the oxidizing aqueous composition (C) mentioned above. In this variant, the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) range from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0, 3 to 3.

According to a second variant of the process, the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, successively and without intermediate rinsing. Preferably, the compositions (A), then (B), then (C) or (B) and (A) and then (C) are applied.

According to a third variant, the composition (C) and the mixture resulting from the compositions (A) and (B) are applied successively and without intermediate rinsing. Advantageously, the weight ratios R 1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R 2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) range from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0.3 to 3. Advantageously, in the first and third variants, the time between mixing and application to the hair does not exceed preferably 30 minutes, preferably 10 minutes, more preferably 5 minutes.

In addition, irrespective of the variant used, the mixture present on the fibers (resulting either from the extemporaneous mixture of the compositions (A), (B) and (C) or from their successive partial or total application) is left in place to a duration, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.

At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.

Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, and in a second compartment, a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more several ammonium salts and in a third compartment an aqueous composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, the compositions (A), (B), (C) having been previously described. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

The following compositions are prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams.

Anhydrous Composition (A): Oxyethylenated Sorbitan Mono-laurate 21.7 (40E) Pyrogenic Silica Hydrophobic 11.1 Vaseline Oil qs 100 Composition (B) Ammonium Carbonate ((NH4) 2 CO3) 20 Demineralized Water 80 Au at the time of use, the following are mixed: 9 parts by weight of the anhydrous composition (A) 1 part by weight of the composition (B) 25 parts by weight of international Platinum oxidizer 20 volumes (6% by weight) hydrogen) (C) The resulting mixture has an ammonium carbonate concentration of 1.10-2 mol% and a pH of 8.7 + 0.2. This mixture is applied to a natural chestnut wick (pitch 5) in a 10/1 (g / g) mix / wick ratio. The pause time is 45 minutes at room temperature (about 27 ° C). At the end of this break time, the lock is rinsed and then washed with Elsève multivitamin shampoo. The implementation of the process according to the invention does not emit any aggressive odor, and leads to a good level of lightening.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for lightening keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, characterized in that the following are used on said keratinous fibers: a) an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or several surfactants; b) a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more ammonium salt (s); c) a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. 2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are selected from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids. esters of fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols, non-silicone waxes and silicones. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat or fats are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids and / or liquid fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof . 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat content is between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight. relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition (A). 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, more particularly chosen from mono-oxyalkylenated or poly-oxyalkylenated, mono-glycerolated or non-ionic surfactants. polyglycerolated. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ammonium salt is chosen from the following acid salts: acetate, carbonate, bicarbonate, chloride, citrate, nitrate, nitrite, phosphate, sulfate. 7. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ammonium salt is ammonium carbonate 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of ammonium salt represents from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (B). 9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous composition (C) comprises at least one oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide and alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides. peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates. 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of the compositions (A), is applied to the dry or moist keratinous fibers ( B) and (C). 11. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are preferably applied to the keratinous fibers successively and without intermediate rinsing. compositions (A), then (B), then (C) or (B) then (A) and then (C). 12. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that is applied to the keratinous fibers, successively and without intermediate rinsing, the composition (C) and the resulting mixture of compositions (A) and (B). ). 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratios R1 of the quantities of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) range from 0.1 to 10, and preferably 0.3 to 3. 14. Multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment, an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants as defined in one of claims 1 to 5, in a second compartment a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more ammonium salt (s) as defined in one of claims 1 or 6 to 8, and in a third compartment, a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents as defined in one of claims 1 or 9.