FR2940057A1 - Coloring or lightening human keratin fiber, using anhydrous composition comprising fatty substance and surfactants, a composition comprising mono ethanolamine and basic amino acids, and composition comprising oxidizing agents - Google Patents

Abstract

Process of coloring or lightening human keratin fiber, using anhydrous composition (a) comprising one or more fatty substance and one or more surfactants; a composition (b) comprising mono ethanolamine and one or more basic amino acids; and a composition (c) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, is claimed, when the process is a process of coloring, then the anhydrous composition (a) is free of organic amine and composition (b) comprises one or more oxidation dyes and/or direct dyes. An independent claim is included for a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment having (a); another compartment having (b); and a third compartment having an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

Description

. The present invention relates to a process for the lightening of human keratin fibers involving an anhydrous composition (see US Pat. A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine and one or more basic amino acids and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. several compartments, at least one of which comprises the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) mentioned above; another composition (B) above and a last oxidizing composition (C) above.

Fiber lightening processes. human keratin consists in using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. One of the difficulties is that the lightening process is carried out under alkaline conditions and the most commonly used alkaline agent is ammonia. Ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. Indeed, it makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow the degradation of the oxidizing agent. But this agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales; this promotes the penetration of the oxidant into the interior of the fiber and thus increases the efficiency of the reaction. However, this basifying agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic odor, rather uncomfortable ammonia that emerges during the process. In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but who may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp (tingling). As for the option of purely and simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional alkalizing agents, this does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these alkalinizing agents do not lead sufficient lightening of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent.

One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide processes for the lightening of human keratinous fibers which do not have the drawbacks of those used with the existing compositions, disadvantages caused by the presence of significant levels of ammonia, but which remain at least as effective in terms of lightening and homogeneity of the latter.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a process for lightening human keratin fibers in which is implemented: a) an anhydrous composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or several surfactants; b) a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine and one or more basic amino acids c) a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

It also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in one of them an anhydrous composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, in another a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine and one or more amino acids and in another, a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents:

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) more particularly have a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2%. by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that the water may also be in the form of bound water, such as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention.

In addition, the process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of compositions comprising no direct dye or dye precursor.

The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair. oxidation (bases and couplers) usually used for coloring human keratin fibers or, if it comprises, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition and the aqueous composition comprising Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say, one would not observe staining effect of keratinous fibers. Preferably, the direct dye is used without an oxidation base, a coupler or, as has been mentioned, the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances: an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1%, even more preferentially at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylpentacyclosiloxane.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, mineral or synthetic vegetable origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones. It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in As Non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin that can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene. triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oils, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, in particular one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. With regard to lower C6-C16 alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane. macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic-capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, the oil of jojoba, shea butter oil. ' - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms; such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam; fluorinated oils perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "ELUTEC PC1" and "FLUTEC PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 and PF 5060 by the Company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name" Foralkyl "by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 50520" by the company 3M. The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol. .

The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isosteaic acid.

With regard to fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above; mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic or monohydric acid esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiety behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate, iuroyl lactate, linoleate lactate, and oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. teta or pentahydroxy C2-C26 may include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate dioctyl adipate diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; Glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; monoricinoleate pentaerythrityl; pentaerythrityl tetrageonanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, and the like. maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives especially alkyl, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids; preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, i-. tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and urs. mixtures. These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmitostearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, in particular mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid sugar esters are also exemplary -the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, denoting, respectively, the palmito-sucrose stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri-, and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% % of di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetraester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; The sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE. The wax or non-silicone waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, wax of rice, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax ( cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as that sold by the company SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The 'usable silicones' in cosmetic compositions of. the present invention are volatile or nonvolatile cyclic silicones; linear or branched, whether or not modified with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 × 21 5 at 25 ° C. and preferably 1 × 10 -5 to 1 m 2 / s: the silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention may be present in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes containing at least

A functional group selected from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. It is, for example, marketed octamethylcyclotéfrasiloxane

In particular, under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBONE 70045 V2 by RHODIA, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, andSILBIONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula 1 ## STR1 ## cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from. silicon, such as the mixture

And octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1. ;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. This is, for example,

Decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products - the SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil - MIRASIL series oils marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2s; 10 - VISCASIL oils of GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils of SF series (SF 96, SF 18) of GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the trade under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes. The silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are, in particular, polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins; polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 6 m 2 s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of a SF 96 oil. Series 48 from RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the R2SiO222, R3SiOv2, RSiO312 and SiO412 units in which R represents an alkyl having 1; 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. These resins include the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones dimethylltrimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiaryl siloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-20-arylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 cm 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHQDIA; . the RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; 30 . the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; silicones of the PN, PH'de BAYER series, such as PN1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-alkyl groups. C24 such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company Union 40 CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) -methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200 .; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups - alkoxyl groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. More particularly, the fatty substances * are. chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably; the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure. The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, silicones ,. Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids and / or liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

The anhydrous cosmetic composition has a. fat content advantageously between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, and even more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition. The anionic surfactants are more especially chosen from salts (in particular salts of alkali metals, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, salts of amino alcohols or salts of alkaline earth metals such as magnesium) of the compounds. alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates; Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit or a glycerol unit. The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants. alkylsulfoacetates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil acids or hydrogenated coconut oil; Alkyl D galactoside uronic acid salts alkylsulfonates; alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates - alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylaminesulphosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates acyl lactylates; salts of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylarylether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; and their mixtures. It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds advantageously comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. Oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenic units, oxypropylenes, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

By way of examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: • oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols, • linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 saturated or non-saturated alcohols, • C 8 amides, -C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, • saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acid esters, and polyethylene glycols, • saturated C8-C30 acid esters, or no, linear or branched, and polyoxyethylene sorbitol, • oxyethylene vegetable oils, saturated or not, • condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or in mixtures. Surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not include oxypropylene units. The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylene nonionic surfactants are chosen from linear or branched C 8 -C 30 alcohols, oxyethylenes, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 acid esters, and sorbitol polyoxyethylenes.

By way of example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols are preferably used. In particular, the mono- or poly-glycerol C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: RO- [CH2-CH (CH2OH) -O] m H wherein R represents a C8 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical; -C40, preferably C8-C30, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds that are suitable in the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER) , oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerol fatty alcohols can coexist in the form of a mixture. Of the mono- or poly-glycerol alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 / C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 / C12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 mole of glycerol. Preferably, the surfactant present in the anhydrous composition is a nonionic surfactant.

The content of surfactant (s) in the anhydrous composition is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition.

The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants, penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes, dispersing agents; film-forming agents of ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). The composition may comprise one or more mineral thickening agents selected from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof. mixtures. As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay, Quaternium-18 Hectorites Pyrogenic silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL FIS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL, EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-OSIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups: In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilane. Silicas thus treated are organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyls and the like. aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and theirs, such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone Gel IPP, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8, Bentone Gel VS38 by Rheox and Simagel M, Simagel SI 345 by the company called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the Degussa company, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530" by Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are denominated "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to CTFA t6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by the company Cabot.

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified pyrogenic silica.

When present, the mineral thickening agent represents from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition:

As indicated above, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises on the one hand monoethanolamine, and on the other hand one or more basic amino acids. Basic amino acids. usable. in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from those comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in an ureido function.

Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## where R denotes a group chosen from: 1 // N NH ~ - (CH 2) 2 NH 2. The compounds corresponding to formula (I) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline and preferably arginine, lysine; histidine or their mixtures.

From. advantageously, the composition. (B) has a monethanolamine content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.

As regards the content of basic amino acid (s), it varies more particularly from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. He . It should be noted that according to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the monoethanolamine 1 basic amino acid weight ratio preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10, still more preferably from 0.3 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 5.

The composition (B) may be an aqueous composition or not. The term "aqueous composition" means a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the composition (B) is an aqueous composition. It may optionally comprise an organic solvent. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvent (s), if present, is usually from 1 to 40% by weight based on the weight of the composition (B), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. The cosmetic composition (B) may also contain various adjuvants such as those mentioned especially in the context of the composition (A), such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof; anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; Antioxidants; penetrating agents of the sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersing agents, film-forming agents; conditioning agents; desceramides of the preservatives, opacifying agents. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). The composition may also include one or more organic thickeners.

These thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), gum of guar and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, sicoglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic fatty-chain regions (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules). According to a particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum). ), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose. The content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. .

Finally, the process is carried out with a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents: More particularly, the oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, ureaperoxide, bromates or ferricyanides of alkali metals, peroxygenated salts such as for example persulfates, perborates and percarbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, as well as peracids and their precursors. This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide and especially in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide) whose concentration may vary, more particularly from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 0.5 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight of the oxidizing composition.

The oxidizing composition can be. aqueous or not. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the composition (C) is an aqueous composition.

It may also include one or more organic solvents. Depending on the desired degree of lightening, the oxidizing agent may also comprise an oxidizing agent preferably chosen from peroxygenated salts. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; and their mixtures. The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (C), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. The oxidizing composition may comprise one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition (C), when aqueous, is less than 7. The oxidizing composition (C) may also contain others. ingredients 20 conventionally used in the field, such as in particular those previously detailed in the context of compositions (A) and (B). Finally, the oxidizing composition (C) is in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel.

According to a first variant of the invention, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of the anhydrous composition (A), of the composition (B) and of the composition (B) is applied to the dry or moist keratinous fibers. of the above-mentioned aqueous oxidizing composition (C). In this variant, the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) range from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0 to 3 to 3. According to a second variant of the method, the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are applied to the keratinous fibers, dry or wet, successively and without intermediate rinsing. Preferably, the compositions (A), then (B), then (C) or (B) and (A) and then (C) are applied. According to another variant, it is also possible to apply successively and without intermediate rinsing, the composition (C) and the resulting mixture of the compositions (A) and (B).

In these two variants, the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) 1 (B) are more particularly from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0.3 to 3.

In addition, irrespective of the variant used, the mixture present on the fibers (resulting either from the extemporaneous mixture of the compositions (A), (B) and (C) or from their successive partial or total application) is left in place for a duration, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes. The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C. At the end of the treatment, the human keratinous fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry: It is specified that if the composition applied to the hair (comprising the compositions (A), (B) and (C)) included ammonia, its content would be less than or equal to 0.03% by weight of the final composition (expressed as NH3 ), more particularly less than or equal to 0.01% by weight relative to the final composition. It is stated that the final composition results from the mixing of the compositions (A), (B) and (C); these mixtures being made either before application on the keratinous fibers (extemporaneous preparation) or directly on the keratinous fibers (successive applications with or without premixes and without intermediate rinsing). But the compositions (A), (B) and (C) preferably comprise. no ammonia. Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, and in a second, a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine. and one or more basic amino acids, and in a third, a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not limiting in nature. The following compositions are prepared unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as g%. Composition A Oxyethylenated sorbitan mono-laurate (40E) 21.67 Pyrogenic silica with hydrophobic character 11 Petrolatum oil Qsp 100 Compositions BI and B2 Composition BI Composition B2 (Invention) (comparative) L-arginine 7 Monoethanolamine 14.5 14.5 Hexylene glycol ug. 3 Dipropylene Glycol 3 3. Denatured ethyl alcohol gg 88 Propylene glycol 6.2 6.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose (MW = 1.300.000) 1.5 1.5 L-ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25 Pentasodium pentetate 1 1 Sodium metabisulfite 0.7 0.7 Water demineralized Qsp 100g Qsp 100g At the moment. of the composition, parts by weight of the composition A, 4 parts by weight of the composition B1 or composition B2, with parts by weight of platinum oxidizing agent International 20 volumes (amount of pitch: 4) are mixed. The mixing bath / wick ratio is respectively 10/1 (g / g). The pause time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this time, the locks are rinsed, then washed with Elsève multivitamin shampoo, and dried.

Results The pH of the mixtures obtained from the composition B1 is identical to that obtained from the composition B2, ie pH = 9.9 hydrogen peroxide 6% by weight). Each mixture is then applied to a lock of natural hair (height). The color of the locks in the CIE L * a * b * system is measured using a MINOLTA CM2600d colorimeter in the CIE Lab system (illuminant D65, angle 100 , specular component included).

The lightening is evaluated by calculating the value of AE * ab according to the following formula AE * ab = [(L * oL * 1) 2 + (a * o û a * 1) 2 + (b * 0] Where L * o, a * o and b * o relate to the coefficients Lab of the untreated wick and L * 1, a * 1 and b * 1 relate to the coefficients Lab of the thinning wick.

The higher the value of AE * ab, the greater the color variation between the untreated locks and the thin locks is important; therefore more enlightenment is effective. L * a * b * AE * ab Untreated chestnut hair 18.2 1.8 1.3 Hair treated with the mixture the invention 22.1 6.3 7.3 8.5 8.5 (composition 131) Hair treated with the comparative mixture 21.6 5.2 5.2 6.2 (composition B2) The lightening obtained with composition t31 (invention) is greater than that of composition B2 (comparative) 15 .21

Claims (6)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for lightening human keratin fibers in which a) an anhydrous composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants is used; b) a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine and one or more basic amino acids; c) a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. 2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones. 3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids and / or of liquid fatty alcohols or their mixtures. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat content is between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight. , relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition (A). 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims; characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, more particularly chosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. 6. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of surfactant (s) is from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition (AT). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the basic amino acid or acids are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## (NH 2) (CH 2) 2 NH 2 - (CH 2) 2 NH 1) ) 2NHCONH2CO2H wherein R denotes a group chosen from: 8. Process according to claim 7, characterized in that the basic amino acid or acids are chosen from arginine, histidine, lysine, or their mixtures. 9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of monoethanolamine represents from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition ( B). 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of basic amino acid (s) represents from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (B). 11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoethanolamine / basic amino acid weight ratio ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.3 to 10, and even more preferably from 1 to 5. 12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of the compositions (A), (B) and (k) is applied to the keratin fibers. VS). 13. Process according to claim 1, wherein the compositions (A), compositions (A), then (B), then (C) or (B) then (A) and then (C). 14. The method of any one of claims 1 to. 11, characterized in that the composition (C) and then the resulting mixture of the compositions (A) and (B) are applied to the keratinous fibers successively and without intermediate rinsing. 15. Process according to any one of the following: of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (8) range from 0.1 to 10 and preferably from 0.3 to 3. 16. Multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment, an anhydrous composition (A) according to one of claims 1 to 6, in another compartment a composition (B) as defined in one of claims 1 and 7 to 11, and in a third compartment, an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents. 10