FR2971158A1 - Lightening or dyeing keratinous fibers, in presence of oxidizing agent, comprises applying formulation comprising composition of e.g. fatty substance, composition of e.g. ammonium (bi)carbonate and composition of e.g. oxidizing agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Method for lightening or dyeing keratinous fibers, in the presence of oxidizing agent, comprises applying a formulation obtained by mixing: anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising at least one fatty substance and at least one surfactant; a cosmetic composition (B) comprising combination of ammonium (bi)carbonate and at least one organic or inorganic base or their salts; and a cosmetic composition (C) comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty substance, to the fibers. The fatty substance is present at at least 35 wt.% with respect to total weight of formulation. Independent claims are also included for: (1) a multi compartment device comprising a first compartment including the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A), a second compartment including the cosmetic composition (B) comprising the combination of the ammonium (bi)carbonate and the organic or inorganic base or bases or one of its/their salts and optionally at least one oxidation dye and/or direct dyes, a third compartment including a composition (C) including at least one oxidizing agent, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application in order to give the formulation; and (2) a four-compartment device comprising the first compartment including the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A), the second compartment including the cosmetic composition (B) including the combination of the ammonium (bi)carbonate and the organic or inorganic base or bases or one of its/their salts, the third compartment including at least one oxidation dye and/or at least one direct dye, and a fourth compartment including the cosmetic composition (C) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application in order to give the formulation.

Description

PROCESS FOR LIGHTENING OR COLORING IN THE PRESENCE OF AMMONIUM (BI) CARBONATE AND A MINERAL BASE, DEVICE

The subject of the present invention is a process for lightening or staining keratinous fibers, comprising the use of a formulation obtained by mixing an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants. of a cosmetic composition (B) comprising the combination of (bi) ammonium carbonate and at least one mineral base, and a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents and one or more fatty substances , the fat content in the formulation representing at least 35% by weight. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device suitable for carrying out the method.

For a long time, many people have been trying to change the color of their hair and in particular to hide their white hair. To do this, there are essentially two types of staining that have been developed. The first type of coloration is the so-called permanent or oxidation coloration which uses dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols and meta-amines. diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors. The second type of staining is so-called semi-permanent staining or direct staining which consists of applying direct dyes to the keratin fibers which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers, to be allowed to pause to allow the molecules to penetrate. , by diffusion inside the fiber, and then rinsing them. In order to perform these stains, the direct dyes generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. This type of process does not require the use of an oxidizing agent to develop the coloring. However, it is not excluded to implement in order to obtain a lightening effect with the coloring. We then speak of a direct or semipermanent coloration in lightening conditions. The permanent or semi-permanent coloring processes under lightening conditions therefore consist in using, with the dye composition, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role, at least in part, of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, it is customary to use peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. In the case of processes for lightening human keratin fibers, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent is also used, under conditions of alkaline pH in the vast majority of cases. In this case, the role of the agent is also to degrade melanin, and depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present (hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts) a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. One of the difficulties encountered in carrying out the lightening or lightening dyeing processes of the prior art is that they are carried out under alkaline conditions and that the most commonly used alkaline agent is ammonia. The use of ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. Indeed, it makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent. In addition, this alkaline agent causes swelling of the keratinous fiber, with uprising of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidant, as well as dyes if they are present, essentially the oxidation dyes, inside. fiber, and thus increases the efficiency of the coloring or lightening reaction. However, this alkalizing agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic smell, rather annoying ammonia that emerges during the process. In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the application of this agent in an amount greater than the amount necessary to achieve the method to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp resulting in particular tingling. As for the option of purely and simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional alkalizing agents, this does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these alkalinizing agents do not provide sufficient lightening of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent. One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide methods for lightening or staining human keratin fibers used in the presence of an oxidizing agent that do not have the disadvantages of existing processes, disadvantages due to the presence high levels of ammonia, but which remain at least as effective. The lightening processes must be effective in terms of the quality and homogeneity of the lightening, and the dyeing processes must be effective in terms of the power of the coloration obtained, as well as that of chromaticity. , the homogeneity of the color along the fiber. In addition, the method according to the invention allows to achieve significant degrees of lightening, even without using persalts.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a process for lightening or staining keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, in the presence of an oxidizing agent, in which one applies to said fibers, a formulation obtained after mixing the following compositions (A), (B) and (C): (a) an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, (b) a cosmetic composition (B) comprising the combination of (bi) ammonium carbonate and one or more mineral bases, and (c) a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, one or more fatty substances; the fat content in the formulation being at least 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the formulation (mixture of compositions (A), (B) and (C)).

Thus, the implementation of the lightening process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions which have lightening performance equivalent to or even greater than those obtained with the existing compositions, in particular with the high concentration ammonia-based compositions. The dyeing process according to the invention leads to powerful and unspecific coloring, that is to say, colorations that are homogeneous along the fiber. In addition, the processes according to the invention use formulations which do not emit an aggressive odor when they are applied to the hair or during their preparation. The present invention also relates to a device with three compartments comprising in a first compartment an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, in a second compartment, a cosmetic composition (B) comprising the combination of bi) ammonium carbonate and at least one mineral base and optionally one or more oxidation dyes and / or one or more direct dyes and, in a third compartment, a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation according to the invention. Finally, it relates to a four-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, in a second compartment, a cosmetic composition (B) comprising the combination of bi) ammonium carbonate and at least one mineral base, a third compartment containing one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or mixtures thereof, and a fourth compartment containing a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more several oxidizing agents; the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation according to the invention.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field.

The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.

In the case of lightening without coloration, the process according to the invention is carried out with compositions comprising no direct dye or oxidation dye precursor (bases and couplers) usually used for dyeing human keratinous fibers or well, if they are present, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the weight of each composition. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say, one would not observe staining effect of keratin fibers. Preferably, this lightening process is carried out without oxidation base, coupler or direct dye.

Anhydrous Composition (A) As indicated previously, the dyeing process is carried out starting from an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A).

More particularly, the expression "anhydrous cosmetic composition" in the meaning of the invention is understood to mean a cosmetic composition having a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more so. preferred less than 1 ° / U by weight relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that the water present in the composition is more particularly "bound water", as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention. 'invention.

Fatty Bodies As has been mentioned, the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances. The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably at 1% by weight). more preferably 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not contain salified or non-salified carboxylic acid groups (COOH or COO-). More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, and waxes. non-silicone silicones. It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

As regards the C6-C16 alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

As oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene. triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyor 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®. fluorinated oils, such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol may be mentioned; .

With regard to fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned previously; mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric acid esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitates and isopropyl palmitate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

The non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax or rice wax. hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR3 ## Si-O- with D ': Si-O-C8H ,, cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures can also be mentioned with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50). and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 with 9 atoms of silicon and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone. entering this class are also described in article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil. ; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SO 2/2, R 3 SSI 1/2, RSIO 3/2 and SIO 4/2 in which R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: SILBONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; . RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; . silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -alkyl groups; C24 such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) -methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit or a glycerolated unit. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The fatty substances are advantageously chosen from C 6 -C 16 alkanes, non-silicone oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, silicones, or their mixtures. Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petrolatum, C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petrolatum and C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes. The anhydrous composition (A) according to the invention advantageously comprises at least 25% by weight of fatty substance. The anhydrous composition (A) according to the invention more particularly has a fat content of from 25 to 80% by weight, preferably from 50 to 80% by weight, still more preferably from 60 to 80% by weight, by weight. relative to the weight of the composition (A).

Surfactants The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO3 2-, H2PO2 HPO2, HPO2, PO2, POH, PO-. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. , alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, monoester salts alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl acid salts amidoether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl. When the anionic surfactant (ii) is in salt form, it can be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulphates and of alkyl ethersulfates and mixtures thereof. The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or poly-substituted nonionic surfactants. glycerolated. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

By way of examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols, amides, in C 6 -C 30, saturated or non-saturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters, and polyethylene glycols, - C 8 -acidic esters - C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or in mixtures . Surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, more particularly between 2 and 50, preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from saturated or unsubstituted C 8 -C 30 oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.

By way of example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, the mono- or poly-glycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, in C8-C40, preferably C -C, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. Examples of suitable compounds in the context of the invention include , lauric alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), alcohol (aurique with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol 40 (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles glycerol, and octadecanol 6 moles glycerol.Alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols in the form of a mixture. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the alcohol at C 8 / C 3, at one mole of glycerol, the C 1 / C 12 alcohol at 1 mole of glycerol and the alcohol in 012 to 1.5 moles of glycerol.

Preferably, the surfactant (s) present in the composition are chosen from nonionic surfactants. Even more preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

The content of surfactant (s) in the composition is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Additives The anhydrous composition (A) may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for lightening or coloring the hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). The composition may especially comprise one or more inorganic thickening agents chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay. The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names AEROSIL 1300, AEROSIL 2000, AEROSIL 2550, AEROSIL 3000, AEROSIL 3800 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL HS-50. , "CAB-O-SIL EH-50", "CAB-O-SIL LM-1300", "CAB-O-SIL MS-550", "CAB-O-SIL M-50" by Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812O" by the company Degussa, "CAB-0-SIL TS-5300" by Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (heme edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972O", "AEROSIL R974O" by Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-6100", "CAB-O-SIL TS-7200" by Cabot. The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified pyrogenic silica. When present, the mineral thickening agent represents from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The composition may also include one or more organic thickeners.

These thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and fatty-chain hydrophobic zones (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules). According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum). ), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose. The content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. Advantageously, the composition (A) is in the form of a gel or a cream.

Cosmetic composition (B) The cosmetic composition (B) comprises the combination of ammonium (bi) carbonate and one or more mineral bases. Preferably, the cosmetic composition (B) comprises the combination of ammonium carbonate and one or more mineral bases. (B) Ammonium carbonate and mineral base For the purposes of the present invention, the term "inorganic base" means ammonia and any compound having in its structure one or more elements of columns 1 to 13 of the periodic table of elements other than 'hydrogen.

According to a first particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral base is ammonia. According to a second particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral base or bases contain one or more elements of columns 1 and 2 of the periodic table of elements other than hydrogen.

In a preferred variant, the mineral base (s) have the following structure (T): (Z1X) m (Z2y +) n (T) in which: Z2 denotes a metal of columns 1 to 13 of the periodic table of the elements, preferably 1 or 2, such as sodium or potassium; Z1X- denotes an anion chosen from the ions CO32-, OH-, HCO32-, SiO32-, HPO42-, PO43-, B4O72-, preferably from the ions CO32-, OH-, SiO32-; x is 1, 2 or 3; y is 1, 2, 3 or 4; m and n are independently of one another 1, 2, 3 or 4; with n.y = m.x. Preferably, the mineral base or bases correspond to the following formula (Zilm (Z21n, in which Z2 denotes a metal of columns 1 and 2, of the periodic table of the elements; Z1X- denotes an anion chosen from the ions CO32-, OH- SiO32-, x is 1, y is 1 or 2, m and n are independently of one another 1 or 2 with ny = mx. The inorganic base (T) that can be used according to the invention sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate.

Advantageously, the composition (B) has a content of mineral base (s) ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. . Preferably, when the process is a lightening process without coloration, the composition (B) does not include persalts.

When the process is a lightening process without coloration, the ammonium (bi) carbonate and the mineral base (s) may be used in admixture with one or more solid or pasty, and preferably powdery, adjuvants. The adjuvants may then be chosen from clays, salts other than ammonium (bi) carbonate, anionic, nonionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, optionally modified starch, glass, silica, nylon, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono- or disaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates, talc, calcium borosilicates, polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, carbonates magnesium or calcium, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, sawdust, fucus powder, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, poly (chloride vinylidene / acrylonitrile), in particular those sold under the general name "Expancel®" by the company Akzo Nobel under the particular references "Expancel® WE" or "DE" Expancels, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the content of ammonium (bi) carbonate ranges from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight. relative to the weight of the composition (B). Furthermore, the content of mineral base (s) or salt (s) is more particularly from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. (B). It should be noted that, preferably, the molar ratio base (s) mineral (s) / (bi) ammonium carbonate is from 0.1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50.

Solvents The composition (B) can be an anhydrous or aqueous composition. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the cosmetic composition (B) is an aqueous composition. Preferably the composition (B) contains water. Even more preferentially, the water concentration can range from 10 to 90%, better still from 20 to 80% of the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition (B) may optionally comprise one or more solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof . The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition (B), and preferably ranging from 5 to 30% by weight.

The cosmetic composition (B) may also comprise conventional additives such as those which have been listed previously and it will be possible to refer to them.

The pH of the cosmetic composition (B) if it is aqueous is between 8 and 11. The pH is adjusted by using acidifying agents or optionally alkalinizing agents other than ammonium (bi) carbonate or mineral base (s). . Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

Dyestuffs The dyeing process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes, or mixtures thereof. The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.

By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among the paraphenylenediamines, there may be mentioned, for example, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N- bis - ([3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-chloro aniline, 2- (3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N - ([3-hydroxypropyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine N, N- (ethyl, [3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, N - ([3, y-dihydroxypropyl] paraphenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- [3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2- [3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N - ([3-methoxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino-toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid. Among the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- [3-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- [3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, , 6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2- [3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred. Among the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, mention may be made, by way of example, of N, N'-bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino propanol, N, N'-bis - ([3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis; - ([3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N N, B- (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts.

Among para-aminophenols, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4- amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2 - ([ 3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid. Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts. Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives. Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, such as 2,5-diamino pyridine, 244-methoxyphenyl) amino 3-amino pyridine, 3,4 diamino pyridine, and their addition salts. Other pyridinic oxidation bases which are useful in the dyeing process according to the invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts, described for example in the application Patent FR 2801308. By way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diaminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol 2 - [(3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a]) pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-ol; 3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-ol; as well as their addition salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when tautomeric equilibrium exists. Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 as the 4.5 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino [3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino diamino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-Benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5 1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) 3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-meth 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino 5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 4 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. It is also possible to use 4-5-diamino-14 [3-methoxyethyl) pyrazole. Preferably, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or one of its salts will be used.

As pyrazole derivatives, mention may also be made of diamino N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in application FR-A-2 886 136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6 7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] ] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1) yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazole -3-one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino- 6,7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino [1,2- a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5- (3-dimethylam) Ino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [ 1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one. It will be preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof.

As heterocyclic bases, use will preferably be made of 4,5-diamino-1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2 a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof. The cosmetic composition (B) used in the dyeing process according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers. Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. By way of example, mention may be made of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene and 2,4-diamino-1- (13- hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino 4- (13-hydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-13-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (13-hydroxyethyl) amino-3 , 4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis- (13-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxy indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methyl pyridine, 1-H 3 -methyl pyrazole 5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methyl pyrazole-5-one, 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1, 2,4-triazole, 6-methyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] benzimidazole, their addition salts with an acid, and mixtures thereof. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates. The oxidation base (s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The content of the coupler (s), if they are (are) present, is each advantageously from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition (B). As regards the direct dyes, the latter are more particularly chosen from ionic or nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species. These direct dyes can be synthetic or of natural origin. As examples of suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. More particularly, the azo dyes comprise a function -N = N- whose two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not excluded that one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N = N- is engaged in a cycle. The dyes of the family of methines are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from> C = C <and -N = C <whose two atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. It is however specified that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the chains can be engaged in a cycle. More particularly, the dyes of this family are derived from methine, azomethine, mono- and di-arylmethane compounds, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanines, azacabocyanines and their isomers, diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanines, hemicyanines. As regards the dyes of the carbonyl family, mention may be made, for example, of the dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigo, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole, coumarin. As regards the dyes of the family of cyclic azines, there may be mentioned in particular azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine, pyronine.

The nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitro pyridinic direct dyes. With regard to porphyrin or phthalocyanine dyes, it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon. By way of example of particularly suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of the nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; azomethines; methinic; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.

When present, the direct dye (s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight. The cosmetic composition (B) used in the dyeing process according to the invention may comprise one and / or the other type (s) of dyes. It may possibly be derived from the mixture of two coloring compositions, one comprising the oxidation dye (s) and the other, the direct dye (s).

Composition C Finally, the process is carried out starting from a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents and one or more fatty substances.

Oxidizing agent More particularly, the oxidizing agent (s) are (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, and percarbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals. This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide and in particular in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide), the concentration of which may vary, more particularly from 0.1 to 500/0 by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 200 By weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the oxidizing composition (C). Preferably, the formulation (mixture of compositions (A), (B) and (C)) does not contain peroxygenated salts.

The oxidizing composition (C) may be aqueous or non-aqueous. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

Fatty substance The cosmetic composition (C) comprises one or more fatty substances as described in the context of the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A). It will therefore be possible to refer to the corresponding passage of the description with regard to the definitions and lists of compounds that can be used in the context of the invention, as well as for the preferred compounds that can be used as fats. in fatty substance in the cosmetic composition (C), this may advantageously represent at least 20% by weight and preferably from 20 to 70% by weight of the composition (C).

It should also be noted that the total fat content in the formulation, that is to say in the final ready-to-use formulation obtained after mixing the compositions (A), (B) and (C) represents at least 35% by weight of said formulation. Preferably, the fat content in said formulation is 40 to 60% by weight. Solvent Preferably, the oxidizing composition (C) is an aqueous composition. It may also include one or more organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof .

The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (C), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

The oxidizing composition (C) may comprise one or more acidifying agents, especially chosen from those described above. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition (C), when aqueous, is less than 7.

The oxidizing composition (C) may also contain other ingredients conventionally used in the field, such as those detailed previously in the context of compositions (A) and (B). Finally, the oxidizing composition (C) is in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel.

Advantageously, the weight ratios R 1 of the quantities of compositions [(A) + (B)] / (C) and R 2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) vary from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0, 3 to 3; provided that the amount of fat in the formulation is at least 35% by weight based on the weight of the formulation, and preferably between 40% and 60% by weight.

The formulation resulting from the mixture of compositions (A), (B) and (C) above is left in place on the fibers for a period, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes. at 30 minutes.

The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C. At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.

Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) containing the combination of bi) ammonium carbonate and the one or more inorganic bases and optionally one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or their mixtures, and a third compartment containing a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation after mixing according to the invention, provided that the amount of fat in this formulation is at least 35% by weight relative to the weight of the formulation. It is also possible to envisage a device with four compartments comprising a first compartment enclosing the above-mentioned anhydrous cosmetic composition (A), a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) containing the combination of the ammonium (bi) carbonate and the base (s). or one of its salts, a third compartment containing one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or mixtures thereof, and a fourth compartment containing a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents ; the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation after mixing according to the invention, provided that the amount of fat in this formulation is at least 35% by weight relative to the weight of the formulation.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. 10 EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1 Lightening Methods The following compositions are prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams. Composition A (anhydrous qel) A Vaseline oil 64.5 Octyl-2 dodecanol 11.5 Modified hectorite distearyl dimethyl ammonium 3 Propylene carbonate 1 Sorbitan mono-laurate oxyethylenated (4OE) 11 Glycol distearate 8 Oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol 1 Composition BB Propylene glycol 6.2 Absolute denatured ethyl alcohol 8.25 Hexylene glycol (2 methyl -2,4 pentanediol) 3 Dipropylene glycol 3 Ammonia (20% NH3) 14.78 Sodium metabisulfite powder 0.7 L-Ascorbic acid ( powder) 0.25 Diethylene triamine pentaacetic acid, pentasodium salt 1 in 40% aqueous solution Ammonium carbonate 3.5 Water Qsp100 Comoositions C1 and C2 (C1 C2 oxidants (Invention) (comparative) Oxygenated behenyl alcohol (100E) 6 6 Sorbitol 5 Vaseline oil 44 - Distearyl ether 5 - Sodium salicylate 0.035 0.035 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate, 10 H2O 0.04 0.04 Etidronic acid, tetrasodium salt 0.2 0.2 aqueous solution 30% phosphoric acid 0.1 0.1 Hyd peroxide in water solution 24 24 to 50% hydrogen peroxide 200 vol) water gsp100 gsp100 At the time of use, mixing (by weight): - 10 parts of the composition A - 4 parts of the composition B - 15 parts of the one of compositions C1 and C2

The mixtures obtained (pH = 9.2) are then applied to hair strands of Caucasian natural hair tone 4. The bath ratio "mix / wick" is respectively 10/1 (g / g).

The exposure time is 50 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this time, the locks are rinsed and then washed with INOA POST shampoo (pH = 5.3 ± 0.3). The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.

As shown in the table below, the mixture of the invention leads to better lightening than that of the prior art. L * a * b * AE * ab Hair untreated HT4 20,23 3,52 4,06 - Hair HT4 treated 34,37 10,33 19,66 22,14 with the mixture of the invention Hair HT4 treated 30, 86 9,35 16,14 17,12 with the comparative mixture Calculation of the color variation AEab * The rise in color (AEab *) was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system. In this system L * a * b *, L * represents the intensity of the color, a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The lower the value of L *, the darker or more intense the color.

The value of AEab * was calculated from the values of L * a * b * according to the following equation (i): AEab * _. \ L (L * -Lo * y + (a * -ao *) 2 + (b * -bo *) 2 (i) The increase in staining (AEab *) was calculated on the locks of untreated hair (Lo *, ao * and bo *) and on the strands of hair treated ( L *, a * and b *) The higher the value of AEab *, the better the color variation of the treated fibers.

EXAMPLE 2 Coloring Process The following coloring composition is prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams: Composition DD Propylene glycol 6.2 Absolute denatured ethyl alcohol 8.25 Hexylene glycol (2 methyl -2,4 pentanediol) 3 Dipropylene glycol 3 Ammonia (20% NH3) 14.78 Sodium metabisulfite powder 0.7 Vitamin C: L-ascorbic acid in fine powder 0.25 Diethylene triamine pentaacetic acid, pentasodium salt 1 in 40% aqueous solution 1-methyl-2,5 -diamino-benzene 2,8 1,3-dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 1,4-hydroxy-3-amino-benzene 0.15 Ammonium carbonate 3.5 Water Qsp100g At the time of use, the following are mixed: 10 parts (by weight) of composition A of Example 1 - 4 parts of composition D - 15 parts of composition C1 of Example 1.

The resulting mixture (pH = 9) is then applied to a 90% white natural Caucasian hair strand (EN). The mixing ratio "bath / wick" is 10/1 (g / g). The exposure time is 50 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this time, the lock is rinsed and then washed with INOA POST shampoo (pH = 5.3 ± 0.3).

We obtain a light brown with a good coverage of white hair.

The results are collated in the table below and evaluated / calculated as in the case of Example 1 L * a * b * AE * ab Untreated hair BN 58.63 0.26 14.6 - BN treated hair 34.63 4.57 16.09 24.43 with the mixture of the invention

Claims (19)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for lightening or staining keratin fibers, in the presence of an oxidizing agent, characterized in that a formulation obtained after mixing the following compositions (A), (B) and (C) is applied to said fibers. (a) an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, (b) a cosmetic composition (B) comprising the combination of ammonium (bi) carbonate and one or more bases and (c) a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, one or more fatty substances; the fat content in the formulation being at least 35% by weight relative to the total weight of this formulation. 2. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 alkanes, non-silicone oils of mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and silicones. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from liquid petrolatum, C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids or alcohols. liquid fats, or mixtures thereof. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of fatty substance ranges from 25 to 80%, preferably from 35 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A). . 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular mono- or polyoxyalkylenated and mono- or poly-substituted nonionic surfactants. - glycerolated. 7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of surfactant (s) in the composition (A) is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight. % by weight, based on the weight of the composition. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat content concentration of the formulation after mixing the compositions (A), (B) and (C) ranges from 35 to 60% by weight relative to the weight. total formulation 9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) has a content of (bi) ammonium carbonate ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral base of the composition (B) is ammonia. 11. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the mineral base (s) of the composition (B) have the following structure (T): (Z1X) m (Z2Y +) n (T) in which: Z2 denotes a metal of columns 1 to 13 of the periodic table of the elements, preferably 1 or 2, such as sodium or potassium; Z1X- denotes an anion chosen from the ions CO32-, OH-, HCO32-, SiO32-, HPO42-, PO43-, B4O72-, preferably from the ions CO32-, OH-, SiO32-; x is 1, 2 or 3; y is 1, 2, 3 or 4; m and n are independently of one another 1, 2, 3 or 4; with n.y = m.x. Preferably, the mineral base or bases correspond to the following formula (Zilm (Z21n, in which Z2 denotes a metal of columns 1 and 2, of the periodic table of the elements; Z1X- denotes an anion chosen from the ions CO32-, OH- , SiO32-, x is 1, y is 1 or 2, m and n are independently of each other 1 or 2 with ny = mx 12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral base (s) of the composition (B) are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and sodium metasilicate. , the potassium metasilicate. 13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) has a content of mineral base (s) ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 at 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. 14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the molar ratio of base (s) to mineral (s) / (bi) ammonium carbonate ranges from 0.1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50. . 15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) comprises one or more oxidation dyes, direct dyes, or mixtures thereof. 16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition (C) comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and salts. peroxygenated, and the percarbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, and preferably being hydrogen peroxide. 17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition (C) comprises one or more fatty substances with a content of at least 20% by weight and preferably from 20 to 70% by weight of the composition (C). 18. A three-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the anhydrous composition (A) according to any one of claims 1 to 7, a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1 or 9 to 15 comprising the combination of ammonium (bi) carbonate and one or more inorganic bases and optionally one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or mixtures thereof, and a third compartment containing a composition (C ) containing one or more oxidizing agents as defined in any one of claims 1 or 16 or 13; the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation after mixing according to the invention. 19. A four-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) according to any one of claims 1 to 7, a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) containing the combination of (bi) ammonium carbonate and the mineral base or bases, a third compartment containing one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or mixtures thereof, and a fourth compartment containing a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents; as defined in any one of claims 1 or 16 or 13; the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation after mixing according to the invention.