FR2930155A1 - USE OF A BAY EXTRACT, AND MORE PARTICULARLY WOLFBERRY, AS ANTI-POLLUTION AGENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a berry extract selected from among wolfberry, blueberry, cranberry, blackberry, gooseberry, white currant, blackcurrant, red currant with grapes , raspberry, sea buckthorn, strawberry and arbutus, and more particularly Wolfberry, as an anti-pollution agent.

Description

The present invention aims to propose the use of a berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry, as an anti-pollution agent. It aims in particular the implementation of this asset to prevent a decrease in and / or strengthen the skin barrier function against external aggression, and particularly vis-à-vis atmospheric pollutants.

Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a deep compartment, the dermis and a superficial compartment, the epidermis. Naturally, it constitutes a barrier against external aggressions, in particular chemical, mechanical or infectious, and as such a number of defense reactions against environmental factors (climate, ultraviolet rays, tobacco, ...) and / or xenobiotics , such as micro-organisms, occur at its level. This property, called barrier function, is mainly provided by the most superficial layer of the epidermis, namely the stratum corneum, called the stratum corneum. The cells constituting the epidermis (mainly the keratinocytes, but also the melanocytes and the Langerhans cells) are delimited by an intercellular lipid structure. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin. In particular, the keratinocytes undergo a continuous and oriented maturation process which, keratinocytes found in the basal layer of the epidermis, results in the formation of corneocytes, which are completely keratinized dead cells consisting of end-stage keratinocytes. differentiation. During differentiation, the phospholipids whose role is to develop the fluid structure of the cell membranes of the living layers of the epidermis, are gradually replaced by a mixture composed mainly of fatty acids, cholesterol and sphingolipids (ceramides). These lipids, which are organized in specific lamellar liquid crystal phases, form the intracellular cement of the stratum corneum and are essential for water exchanges and the barrier function of the epidermis.

Thus, the lamellar structure of lipids of the lipid domain of the epidermis and corneocytes participate in the epidermal barrier function.

It is obvious that this cutaneous barrier is daily solicited following an exposure of the cutaneous surface to the chemicals, xenobiotics and particles composing the urban pollution. Among these atmospheric pollutants that can have deleterious effects on the skin and the hair, three broad categories can be distinguished. It is essentially gas, heavy metals, and particles that are the combustion residues on which are adsorbed many organic compounds. The gases contribute more particularly to the formation of a prooxidant environment to which the outermost tissues are directly exposed.

Thus, sources of environmental oxidants include oxygen, solar UV irradiation as well as in polluted air, ozone, and oxides of nitrogen and sulfur. Air pollutants represented by primary and secondary products of domestic and industrial combustion, such as mono-and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, are also an important source of oxidative stress.

It is already known that the skin is particularly sensitive to the action of oxidative stress and the outermost layer serves as a barrier against oxidative damage. Under most circumstances, the oxidant is likely to be neutralized after reaction with keratin materials, but the reaction products formed may be responsible for cellular and tissue damage.

The pollutant category constituted by heavy metals is more likely to induce toxicity problems. Of course, some metal ions are needed by the body in the form of traces as essential nutrients. For example, several functions involve polypeptides such that enzymatic, structural and immunological functions require metal cofactors. On the other hand, other metal ions, particularly heavy metal ions when they are at non-physiological concentrations, can alter these functions. Thus, overexposure to metals in the environment can lead to toxic effects.

Ecological studies conducted in industrialized countries show that the quantities of metals present in the atmosphere are increasing. This leads to an increase in heavy metal levels in the tissues of organisms following the ingestion of contaminated foods and exposure to metals in the atmosphere. The effects of heavy metal accumulation can be extremely dangerous and their toxicity is partly due to the alteration of the tertiary and quaternary structures of the proteins, which leads to a reduction of their catalytic activity. Altered proteins can become antigenic and lead to an immune response. Another mechanism responsible for the toxic effects of metals is the competitive substitution of natural physiological cofactors by heavy metals at non-physiological concentrations. Thus, the control of polluting heavy metals in the atmosphere is essential to prevent diseases in relation to exposure to metals. Due to the increasing contamination of the environment by heavy metals and their ubiquitous presence in the ecosystem, accessible skin, hair and mucous membranes represent the widest contact surface and therefore promote the accumulation of metals and their subsequent absorption into the body. It has been shown that some heavy metals penetrate the skin and accumulate. At high concentrations, they can induce: oxidation mechanisms on membrane lipids, direct cytotoxicity, capable of resulting in cell necrosis and alkylation of cellular nucleophiles that may be at the origin of sensitization or carcinogenesis phenomena. As for hair, they have a strong absorbency for metals. The binding is so strong that once these fixed metals captured by the anionic sites of the fiber, they are difficult to extract. The metals particularly incriminated in the environment are copper, cobalt, zinc, manganese, mercury, nickel and lead. As for the third major category of pollutants, it consists of combustion residues in the form of particles to which are adsorbed a large number of organic compounds, and in particular polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). These polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons adsorbed on the surface of particles and dust carried by urban air, can penetrate the skin tissue and be bio-transformed. Their hepatic metabolism, well described in the literature, leads to formations of monohydroxylated metabolites (detoxification route), epoxides and epoxy diols (toxic route). We can observe similar phenomena at the cutaneous level. These compounds are known to have carcinogenic and immunogenic effects at the cutaneous level. As previously stated, the stratum corneum, the barrier of the skin, is the site of contact between air and skin tissue. The bi-phasic lipid / protein structure is therefore a crucial determinant of this barrier function of the skin. However, these elements can react with oxidants and be altered which will promote desquamation phenomena. Thus, lipid peroxidation induced by ozone can alter the skin in two ways. The oxidation and degradation of stratum corneum lipids can alter the barrier function of the stratum corneum. The disruption of external lipids and protein architecture are triggers in many dermatoses (psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, irritant dermatitis). Similarly, increased formation of lipid oxidation products in the upper skin layers may trigger damage to adjacent skin layers. In addition, significant oxidative damage to the stratum surface layers can initiate underlying localized inflammatory processes, leading to the recruitment of phagocytes that, by generating oxidants, will amplify the initial oxidative processes. Thus, in urban pollution, concomitant exposure to 03 and UV can cause synergistic oxidative stress. Similarly, it may be thought that there is a synergy of action between ozone and organic compounds from combustion. This alteration of the cutaneous barrier can in particular result for a subject by sensations of cutaneous discomfort, sensory phenomena and / or the manifestation of undesirable or even painful skin signs such as irritation.

These sensations are generally the consequence of a partial denudation of the sensory nerve endings of the surface of the skin or scalp, especially the C fibers of neurons, or chemical, thermal, mechanical or baroreceptor receptors or sensors. The subject may then experience a sensation of cutaneous discomfort that can manifest itself in particular by tingling, tightness, warm-up and / or itching.

The aforementioned signs of discomfort may also be associated with undesirable cutaneous signs, such as redness, irritation, scars, inflammatory erythema, edema and / or pimples. In general, the skin disorders mentioned above are more common in the most exposed areas of the body, namely the hands, feet, face, and scalp. Irritated skin is one that shows at least one of the following undesirable skin signs, namely redness, irritation, pruritus, scars, inflammatory erythema, edema and / or pimples and / or which induces at least one sensation of discomfort such as itching, tingling and tugging. The manifestations of these undesirable cutaneous signs can in particular be validated physiologically by the observation of an increase in the expression of certain specific inflammatory markers such as, for example, TNF-a (Tumor Necrosis Factor-alpha) and NOSi (Nitric). Inducible Oxide Synthase).

NOSi is an enzyme that produces nitric oxide (NO). As its name suggests, it is inducible, ie it is expressed only during various stress, including inflammation. The problem is therefore to improve the resistance of the skin against gases, heavy metals, organic compounds combustion residues and their deleterious effects, maximized by UV, encountered in urban pollution, acting singly or in combination, and, in fact, to slow down the disorders associated with an alteration of the barrier function, or even the signs of aging or photocellulisation, consequences of tissue damage induced by said pollutants. It has now been found quite surprisingly that the use of an extract of berry, and more particularly of Wolfberry, made it possible to give satisfaction in these terms. The invention thus relates, according to one of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a berry extract selected from among wolfberry, blueberry, cranberry, blackberry, currant, white currant, blackcurrant, red currant with grapes, raspberry, sea buckthorn, strawberry and arbutus and more particularly of Wolfberry, as an anti-pollution agent.

It further relates to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of such an extract of berry, and more particularly of Wolfberry, as an active ingredient intended to prevent a decrease in and / or to reinforce the cutaneous barrier function with regard to atmospheric pollutants.

The term Wolfberry (also known as Goji, or under the names Chinese boxthorn or Matrimony Vine) usually refers to different species of the genus Lycium, family Solanaceae. Among the various species of the genus Lycium, Lycium barbarum and Lycium chinense are the most commonly used in oriental medicine. The fruit of Lycium barbarum, also called Fructus lycii, has been known for many years, especially in Asia, as a medicinal plant helping to maintain, in general, healthy. Unexpectedly, berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry, considered according to the invention makes it possible to ensure the maintenance of the barrier function of the skin at its level of normal efficiency, that is to say the level at which it performs its function of protecting the organism. Thus, the invention also aims at the cosmetic use of an effective amount of such an extract of berry, and more particularly of Wolfberry, to reinforce the cutaneous barrier function with respect to external aggression (s) irritating agents such as, for example, detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, toxic gases or fumes, with regard to thermal or climatic imbalances, such as, for example, cold. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "Wolfberry extract" denotes one or more compounds. It is more particularly a mixture of compound (s) naturally existing in one of the plant materials forming Wolfberry, and more particularly of its fruit, and which has been isolated generally by extraction. In particular, the berry extract considered according to the invention, and more particularly of Wolfberry, thus makes it possible to ensure the maintenance of the barrier function of the skin when it is subjected to aggression and / or to increase the time at whose term it will be altered. For the purposes of the invention, the expression reinforcing the barrier function of the skin means improving the barrier function of the skin.

This improvement is particularly decisive when the barrier function of the skin is impaired and it is necessary to restore it. It may also be advantageous when it is desired to consolidate the native barrier function of the skin, in order to confer in particular on the body a better resistance to external aggressions against which it is likely to be exposed. Thus, the compositions which contain the berry extract according to the invention, and more particularly of Wolfberry, considered according to the invention may be intended to prevent the manifestation of and / or reduce undesirable cutaneous signs, induced by oxidative stress. induced by pollution. The invention aims in particular at the cosmetic use of an effective amount of such an extract of berry, and more particularly of Wolfberry, for preventing and / or treating the cutaneous signs induced or exacerbated by the pollution, and in particular the signs undesirable skin induced by oxidative stress initiated for example by an environmental oxidant, such as for example oxygen, ozone and / or oxides of nitrogen and sulfur. More particularly, these cutaneous signs may be the loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin, drying of the skin and / or a dull complexion. The berry extract according to the invention, and more particularly from Wolfberry, considered according to the invention can be formulated in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. The invention thus relates to the use of an effective amount of such an extract of berry, and more particularly of Wolfberry, as an active ingredient for the preparation of a composition intended to prevent a decrease in and / or to strengthen the cutaneous barrier function with respect to atmospheric pollutants. It also relates to the use of an effective amount of such an extract of berry, and more particularly of Wolfberry, for the preparation of a composition intended to prevent the manifestation of and / or to reduce the undesirable cutaneous signs, induced by a oxidative stress induced by pollution. According to one embodiment, a use or a method according to the invention may comprise the administration of berry extract, and more particularly of the Wolfberry considered according to the invention, topically, orally, parenterally, by air or by subcutaneously. Advantageously, the administration can be performed orally. Topically, administration of the berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry, or compositions that include it by application to the skin. According to another embodiment, the use or the method according to the invention may comprise the administration of said berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry, by air or subcutaneously. Subcutaneous administration may in particular be carried out by means of a syringe.

The invention also relates to a method of treatment, in particular a cosmetic treatment, for protecting the keratin materials of a subject against the deleterious effects of atmospheric pollutants, comprising at least one stage of administration, in particular orally, to said subject of a quantity effective of said berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry. According to another of its aspects, the invention aims at a method of treatment, in particular a cosmetic treatment, for preventing a decrease in and / or reinforcing the cutaneous barrier function with regard to the atmospheric pollutants of a subject comprising at least one step of administering, particularly orally, to said subject an effective amount of said berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry. The oral route, which is the preferred route of administration according to the invention, is advantageous for several reasons. On the one hand, his administration is immediate and does not raise any constraint on the subject considered. Moreover, it has a spectrum of overall effectiveness, that is to say both on the entire skin and in its deep layers. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular an oral or topical, cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in particular useful for preventing a decrease in and / or reinforcing the cutaneous barrier function, comprising in a physiologically acceptable carrier at least one effective amount of a berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry, in combination with an effective amount of at least one anti-pollution agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" means an amount sufficient to obtain the expected effect. For the purpose of the present invention, the term prevent means to reduce the risk of manifestation of the phenomenon in question.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "treating" means supplementing a physiological dysfunction and more generally reducing or even eliminating an undesirable disorder, the manifestation of which is in particular a consequence of this dysfunction.

Bay extract The bay that can be considered according to the invention can be chosen from among wolfberries, blueberries, cranberries, blackberries, currants, white currants, blackcurrants, red currants, raspberries buckthorn, strawberry and arbutus. According to one embodiment, it is Wolfberry.

For the purposes of the invention, the term Wolfberry means to designate the species of the genus Lycium selected from Lycium barbarum and Lycium chinense, and preferably the species Lycium barbarum. The Wolfberry extract considered according to the invention contains at least zeaxanthin or one of its derivatives and / or lycium barbarum polysaccharide (LBP).

The Lycium barbarum polysaccharide (LBP) is a group of water-soluble polysaccharides of the arabinogalactan (AGP) protein type. As a derivative of zeaxanthin, mention may especially be made of zeaxanthin esters and diesters, and more particularly zeaxanthin dipalmitate. Thus, the Wolfberry fruit naturally comprises a content of zeaxanthin (including zeaxanthin dipalmitate and other zeaxanthin derivatives) ranging from 20 to 300 mg, and preferably from 50 to 250 mg by weight, in particular from 100 to 200 mg by weight. per 100 g of fruit. The fruit Wolfberry also contains vitamin C or one of its analogues. As an analogue of vitamin C, there may be mentioned ascorbyl glucoside, and for example 2-0 - ((3-D-glucopyranosyl) ascorbic acid.

According to one embodiment, the Wolfberry extract used according to the invention contains at least zeaxanthin dipalmitate and Lycium barbarum polysaccharide. According to one embodiment, the Wolfberry extract used according to the invention contains at least zeaxanthin dipalmitate, Lycium barbarum polysaccharide (LBP) and 2-O- (13-D-glucopyranosyl acid). ) ascorbic. In particular, this extract may advantageously contain up to 0.30% by weight, for example from 0.01 to 0.30% by weight, in particular from 0.03 to 0.12% by weight, or even 0, 06 to 0.10% by weight of zeaxanthin or derivatives including zeaxanthin diplamitate and other zeaxanthin derivatives based on its total weight. The extract of Wolfberry may be an extract prepared from any plant material derived from Wolfberry, said material having been obtained by in vitro culture or in vivo. Preferably, an extract obtained from the fruit of Wolfberry is used. More particularly according to the invention, the fruit of the species Lycium barbarum is used. Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used according to the invention. It is thus possible in particular to use as extraction solvent a milk medium as described below. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an extract which can be prepared according to one of the processes described in document WO 2005/092121 is used. It is thus possible to use a Wolfberry extract obtained by extracting Wolfberry fruit from at least one plant of the species Lycium barbarum in a liquid milk medium, that is to say containing milk or milk proteins. According to this embodiment, the Wolfberry extract can in particular be obtained by a preparation process comprising the steps of mixing and grinding the whole fruit of Wolfberry in a liquid medium containing milk or milk proteins, separating the fibers insoluble to obtain an aqueous suspension, and desiccate the thus isolated suspension to obtain a powder. If desired, a pasteurization step can be carried out on the aqueous suspension obtained after separation of the insoluble fibers, and before the step of drying the suspension to obtain a powder.

The steps of mixing, grinding and separating the insoluble fibers can be carried out at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Such an extract can still be called Lactowolfberry. According to one embodiment, the Wolfberry extract may be in the form of a water-dispersible powder. This formulation makes it possible to increase the bioavailability of the zeaxanthin of the extract of Wolfberry. The extract of Wolfberry, and more particularly Lactowolfberry, is present in an amount effective to give the compositions in which it is formulated, the properties required according to the invention. Thus, the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention may comprise an amount of dry matter of Wolfberry extract ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it. For obvious reasons, this amount of Wolfberry extract may vary to a large extent and may depend in particular on the desired activity and / or the mode of administration, namely topically or orally, selected for the composition. corresponding. For example, the extract of Wolfberry, and more particularly Lactowolfberry can be used in an amount of dry matter ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and in particular at least 5% by weight. preferably at least 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention comprising it and more particularly in those intended for oral application. According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, a berry extract according to the invention, and more particularly of Wolfberry, may advantageously be associated with at least one effective amount of at least one microorganism, in particular probiotic, of 25%. one of its fractions or one of its metabolites.

The inventors have indeed found that the combination of these two compounds does not result in a combined action, especially on the reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier function, greater than that of these two compounds considered separately. Microorganisms, and in particular probiotic microorganisms The microorganisms that are suitable for the invention are microorganisms that can be administered without risk to animals or humans. In particular, at least one so-called probiotic microorganism is used in the present invention. For the purposes of the present invention, probiotic microorganism is understood to mean a living microorganism which, when consumed in an adequate quantity, has a positive effect on the health of its host. of Probiotic in Food Including Powder Milk with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001, which can in particular improve intestinal microbial balance. These microorganisms that are suitable for the invention may be chosen in particular from ascomycetes such as Saccharomyces, Yarrowia, Kluyveromyces, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Debaromyces, Candida, Pichia, Aspergillus and Penicillium, bacteria of the genus Bifidobacterium, Bacteroides, Fusobacterium, Melissococcus, Propionibacterium, Enterococcus, Lactococcus, Staphylococcus, Peptostrepococcus, Bacillus, Pediococcus, Micrococcus, Leuconostoc, Weissella, Aerococcus, Oenococcus and Lactobacillus and mixtures thereof. Particularly suitable ascomycetes for the present invention are Yarrowia lipolitica and Kluyveromyces lactis, as well as Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharamyces pombe, Candida and Pichia. Specific examples of probiotic microorganisms are Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii subsp. Lactis, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus sake, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococcus carnosus, and Staphylococcus xylosus and mixtures thereof. More particularly, it is probiotic microorganisms from the group of lactic acid bacteria, such as Lactobacillus. As an illustration of these lactic acid bacteria, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus reuteri and Lactobacillus rhamnosus and their mixtures may be mentioned more particularly.

The most suitable species are Lactobacillus johnsonii, especially the strain deposited according to the Budapest Treaty with the Institut Pasteur (28 rue du Docteur Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) under the following designation CNCM I-1225, and more particularly Lactobacillus paracasei, more preferably the strain deposited on January 12, 1999 under the designation CNCM I-2116, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the microorganism may be of the species Lactobacillus paracasei, one of its fractions or one of its metabolites, and in particular the strain Lactobacillus paracasei deposited on January 12, 1999 under the designation CNCM I -2116. The microorganism may be used in a proportion of 0.00001 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 20% by weight and more particularly from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of a composition. container. In general, the compositions for topical application according to the invention generally comprise from 0.0001 to 30%, in particular from 0.001 to 15% and more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, in one or more microorganisms, in particular probiotics. This or these microorganism (s) can be included in the compositions according to the invention in a living form, semi-active or inactivated, dead. I1 (s) can also be included as fractions of cellular components or as metabolites. The microorganism (s), metabolite (s) or fraction (s) can also be introduced in the form of a powder, a liquid or a culture supernatant. or one of its fractions, diluted or not, or concentrated or not. In the case where the microorganisms are formulated in a composition in a living form, the amount of living microorganisms can vary from 103 to 1015 cfu / g, in particular from 105 to 1015 cfu / g and more particularly from 10 'to 1012 cfu / g of microorganisms per gram of composition.

Annex anti-pollution agent As specified above, the compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the berry extract, and more particularly Wolfberry, according to the present invention, at least one anti-pollution agent.

By the term "anti-pollution agent" is meant especially any compound capable of trapping ozone, mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzopyrene and / or heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium and / or or nickel.

As ozone-trapping agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it; olive leaf extracts; tea extracts, especially green tea; anthocyanins; rosemary extracts; phenolic acids, in particular chlorogenic acid; stilbenes, in particular resveratrol; sulfur-containing amino acid derivatives, in particular S-carboxymethylcysteine; ergothioneine; N-acetylcysteine; chelating agents such as N, N'-bis- (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; carotenoids such as crocetin; and various raw materials such as the mixture of arginine, histidine ribonucleate, mannitol, adenosinetriphosphate, pyridoxine, phenylalanine, tyrosine and hydrolysed RNA marketed by the Serobiological Laboratories under the trade name CPP LS 2633-12F, the water-soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl, the mixture of fumitory extract and lemon extract marketed under the name Unicotrozon C-49 by the company Induchem, and the mixture of extracts of ginseng, apple, peach , wheat and barley sold by the company PROVITAL under the trade name Pronalen Bioprotect. As scavengers for mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of tannins such as ellagic acid; indole derivatives, in particular indol-3-carbinol; tea extracts especially green tea, extracts of water hyacinth or Eichhornia crassipes; and the water soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl. The ellagic acid and its derivatives, in particular as described in patent EP 1 282 345, turn out to be particularly interesting. The cosmetic compositions used in the invention may advantageously contain from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, of ellagic acid, of its salts, of its metal complexes, of its mono- or poly-ethers, mono- or poly-acyls and its carbonate or carbamate derivatives, derived from hydroxyl groups, relative to the total weight of the composition. Among the above-mentioned anti-pollution agents, it is also more particularly possible to consider anthocyanins and / or its derivatives, compounds containing a thio-ether function, sufloxides or sulphone, ergothionine and / or its derivatives, heavy metal chelating agents as for example the derivatives of N, N'-dibenzyl ethylene diamine N, N'-diacetic acid, antioxidants, plant cell extracts of the Pontederiaceae family.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally available for the chosen mode of administration. The support may be of a different nature depending on the type of composition considered. As regards more particularly the compositions intended for topical external administration, that is to say on the skin, they may be aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the type lotion or serum, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, suspensions or emulsions, cream type, aqueous or anhydrous gel, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic type and or nonionic. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. These compositions may in particular constitute creams for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body, (for example, day creams, night creams). make-up creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams), make-up products such as fluid foundations, make-up removing milks, protective or skincare body milks, after-sun milks, lotions, gels or mousses for skin care, such as cleaning or disinfecting lotions, sunscreen lotions, bathing compositions, aftershave gels or lotions.

They can also be used for the scalp in the form of solutions, creams, gels, emulsions, foams or in the form of aerosol compositions also containing a propellant under pressure.

The compositions according to the invention may also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleaning bars. When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics and / or dermatological field. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . When the composition of the invention is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. In known manner, the dosage forms dedicated to topical administration may also contain adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase. Fats which can be used in the invention include mineral oils such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petroleum jelly, vegetable oils such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and almonds. apricot, animal oils such as perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils including Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, unsaturated fatty acids and fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids such as stearic acid and, for example, waxes such as paraffin, carnauba and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums.

As emulsifiers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60, the cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol mixture oxyethylenated with 33 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO by Henkel, the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name of Tefose 63 by Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyldimethicone copolyol and sorbitan mono- or tristearate, stearate PEG-40, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (200E). As solvents which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol. The composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a thermal and / or mineral water, in particular chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin and Roche Posay water. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkyl acrylates, polyacrylamides and in particular the mixture of polyacrylamide, C13-14-Isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the Sepigel 305 name by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, carob and xanthan and clays. As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethylcellulose and polyethylene. In the case of a use according to the invention orally, it favors the use of an ingestible support. Examples of suitable food or pharmaceutical carriers are milk, yoghurt, cheese, fermented milk, fermented milk products, ice cream, fermented cereal products, formulas for children and infants, confectionery, chocolate, cereals, especially pet food, tablets, capsules or tablets, oral supplements in dry form and oral supplements in liquid form.

For ingestion, many embodiments of oral compositions and in particular dietary supplements are possible. Their formulation is carried out by the usual methods for producing dragees, capsules, gels, emulsions, tablets, capsules. In particular, the active (s) according to the invention can be incorporated into any other form of food supplements or fortified foods, for example food bars, or compacted powders or not. The powders can be diluted with water, in soda, soy products or derivatives, or incorporated into food bars. According to a particular embodiment, the ancillary microorganisms may be formulated within compositions in an encapsulated form so as to significantly improve their survival time. In such a case, the presence of a capsule may in particular delay or prevent degradation of the microorganism in the gastrointestinal tract.

Of course, the topical or oral compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain several other active ingredients. As active agents that may be mentioned include vitamins A, B3, B5, B6, B8, C, D, E, or PP, curcuminoids, carotenoids, polyphenol and mineral compounds, sugars, amino acids catechins, OPCs, sulfur-containing amino acids and polyunsaturated fatty acids 3 and 6. In particular, it is possible to use an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, in particular a carotenoid selected from the group consisting of 13-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as catechins, proanthocyanidins, anthocyanins, ubiquinones, coffee extracts containing polyphenols and / or diterpenes, chicory extracts , ginkgo biloba extracts, proanthocyanidin-rich grape extracts, chilli extracts, soy extracts, other sources of flavonoids with antioxidant properties, fatty acids, prebiotics, tau resveratrol, amino acids of selenium, precursors of glutathione.

In the topical dosage forms, proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, and especially C2 to C10 polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, urea allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, bacterial or plant extracts such as Aloe Vera. With regard to lipophilic active agents, it is possible to use retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ceramides, essential oils and unsaponifiables (tocotrienol, sesamin, gamma oryzanol, phytosterols, squalens, waxes, terpenes).

As active agents that may be more particularly associated with an effective amount of a berry extract according to the invention, and more particularly from Wolfberry, in an oral dosage form, it is also possible to consider all the commonly used and / or authorized ingredients. , especially active agents for the prevention and / or treatment of skin conditions. By way of illustration, mention may be made of vitamins, minerals, essential lipids, trace elements, polyphenols, flavonoids, phytoestrogens, antioxidants such as lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10, carotenoids, prebiotics, proteins and amino acids, mono- and polysaccharides, aminosugars, phytosterols and triterpene alcohols of plant origin. These are, in particular, vitamins A, C, D, E, PP and group B. Of the carotenoids, beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeazanthin and astaxanthin are preferably selected. . The minerals and trace elements particularly used are zinc, calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, iodine, manganese, selenium, chromium (III). Among the polyphenol compounds, polyphenols of grape, tea, olive, cocoa, coffee, apple, blueberry, elderberry, strawberry, cranberry, and onion are also particularly preferred. Preferably, among the phytoestrogens, isoflavones are retained in the free or glycosylated form, such as genistein, daidzein, glycitein or lignans, in particular those of flax and schizandra chinensis. Amino acids or peptides and proteins containing them, such as taurine, threonine, cysteine, tryptophan, methionine. The lipids preferably belong to the group of oils containing monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic, alpha-linolenic, gamma-linolenic, stearidonic, omega-3 fatty acids of long-chain fish such as EPA. and DHA, conjugated fatty acids derived from plants or animals such as CLA (Conjugated Linoleic Acid). Thus, in particular when an extract of berry and more particularly of Wolfberry, considered according to the invention is intended for an oral administration, it can be further associated with at least one nutritional active agent chosen from lycopene, vitamin C, vitamin E and polyphenol compounds.

A berry extract according to the invention, and more particularly from Wolfberry, can also be combined with other nutritional active ingredients chosen from: - anti-aging nutritional active ingredients, such as food antioxidants, nutrients with anti-radical properties and cofactors of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, vitamins A, C, E, carotenoids, xantophyls, isoflavones, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium, selenium, lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismutase (SOD) or taurine. Among the anti-aging active ingredients, unsaponifiable fractions extracted from plant-derived lipids, aloe vera, native or hydrolyzed marine collagen, vegetable or marine oils rich in omega-3 fatty acids and omega-6 fatty acids ( including gamma-linolenic acid), - photoprotective nutritional assets such as: antioxidants and antiradicals: vitamins A, C, E, carotenoids, xantophyls, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium, selenium, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismultase (SOD), probiotics, nutritional ingredients with moisturizing or immunomodulatory properties such as polypodium leucotomous extract, vegetable or marine oils rich in fatty acids omega-3, omega-6, including gamma-linolenic acid, - active ingredients active on clinical signs of menopause (eg hot flushes, ...), such as isoflavones lignans, DHEA, extracts of yam, sage, hops, calcium, magnesium, protein hydrolysates, vegetable or marine oils rich in omega-3 fatty acids, - the nutritional ingredients used in the field of thinness, such as green tea extracts, mate, horse chestnut, kola, caffeine, theobromine, synephrine, bromelain, ephedra, citrus aurantium, calcium, hoodia, garcinia, chitosan, vegetable fiber (cactus, apples , pineapple, ...), fennel, blackcurrant, queen of the meadows, black radish. The treatment method of the invention may be implemented in particular by administering orally and / or topically an effective amount of said berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry. The treatment method of the invention may be implemented in particular by administering the compositions as defined above, according to the usual technique of use of these compositions. For example: applications of creams, gels, serums, lotions, cleansing milks or after-sun compositions on the keratin material such as dry skin or hair, application of a hair lotion to wet hair or shampoo for topical application. The process according to the invention can thus be carried out by topical, daily administration for example of the berry extract, and more particularly of Wolfberry, considered according to the invention.

The method according to the invention may comprise a single administration. According to another embodiment, the administration is repeated for example 2 to 3 times daily on a day or more and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more if necessary periods of interruption.

In the following description and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form between ... and ... include the specified lower and upper bounds. The ingredients are mixed, before they are shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the invention. The Wolfberry extract used in the examples below is prepared from the fruit of Wolfberry from Ningxia Province, China. Whole fruits preferentially used for the invention contain at least 110 mg and preferably 150 mg of zeaxanthin relative to 100 g of fruit. This extract can be prepared according to one of the methods described in Example 1 or 4 of WO 2005/092121. The Lactowolfberry thus obtained contains approximately 53% of Wolfberry fruit, 30% of skim milk and 17% of maltodextrin or approximately 64% of Wolfberry fruit and 36% of skimmed milk. The extract thus obtained is used in the formulations specified below.

FIGURES FIG. 1: the difference between the expression of TNF-alpha in the irritated part and the expression of TNF-alpha in the non-irritated part was measured for each of groups A and C of Example 7, and expressed as a percentage.

2: the difference between the expression of the NOSi in the irritated part and the expression of the NOSi in the non-irritated part was measured for each of the groups A and C of Example 7, and expressed as a percentage .

Example 1: Single-dose gel Active ingredient% wt Lactowolfberry (corresponding to 0.016% zeaxanthin) Lycopene Lactobacillus paracasei (CNCMI-2116) 1010 cfu Excipient Sugar syrup 50 Maltodextrin 17 Xanthan gum 0.88 Sodium benzoate 0.2 Water qs 100 You can take a dose of 200 to 400 ml a day. Example 2: Capsule mg / capsule Vitam 60 Vitamin C Lactowolfberry (corresponding to 10.66 g 13.7 zeaxanthin) Glycerin 150 Magnesium stearate 0.02 Natural flavor qs One to three of these capsules can be taken per day. EXAMPLE 3 A vitamin complex comprising 60 mg of vitamin C, 100 g of vitamin E and 6 mg of β-carotene is added to the formulation of Example 2. EXAMPLE 4 The formulation of Example 2 is supplemented with a vitamin complex comprising 100 mg of vitamin C, 100 g of vitamin E and 6 mg of lycopene per capsule.

EXAMPLE 5 Gel for body care (% by weight) Lactowolfberry (corresponding to 0.004% zeaxanthin) 5.00 Lactobacillus paracasei (CNCM I-2116) 10.00 Antioxidant 0.1 Vitamin C 2.50 Isopropanol 40.00 Preservative 0.30 Water qs 100.00 Example 6: Lotion for body care (% by weight) Lactowolfberry (corresponding to 0.004% zeaxanthin) 5.00 Antioxidant 0.05 Isopropanol 40.00 Preservative 0.30 Water qs 100 Example 7 The study was carried out on subjects over 65 years old who were supplemented or not with Lactowolfberry at 0.5% of their total diet for 44 days.

At the end of the 44-day period, group A skin (control group not supplemented with Lactowolfberry) and group C skin (Lactowberryberry supplemented group) were treated with an irritant (100 microgram Keyhole Limpet Haemocyanin (KLH) in 1% alum subcutaneous) on one part (right zone), another part of skin not being irritated (left zone).

Skin samples were then taken and analyzed to objectify two skin markers: TNF-alpha and NOSi. a) Labeling and expression of TNF alpha TNF alpha was immunostained by a polyclonal anti-human TNF alpha antibody made in goats. The labeling is localized in the epidermis, at the level of the upper layers of the spineuse. It forms a continuous line at the boundary of the spinous layer and the granular layer. First of all, there is a difference, both in group A and in group C, between the expression of TNF-alpha in the irritated part (right zone) and in the non-irritated part (left zone). The difference between the expression of TNF-alpha in the irritated part and the expression of TNF-alpha in the non-irritated part was measured for each of groups A and C, and expressed as percentages (see Table below and Figure 1). Difference between the expression of TNF-alpha in the irritated and non-irritated part Group A 50 Group C 25 Group C supplemented with Lactowolfberry shows a decrease in TNF-alpha expression in the area irritated compared to control group A.

b) NOSi Labeling and Expression The NOSi was immunostained with a FITC-coupled NOSI anti-human antibody made in mice. At the level of the skin, the expression of the NOSi is localized at the level of the middle layers of the epidermis. First of all, there is a difference in group A as well as in group C, between the expression of NOSi in the irritated part (right zone) and in the non-irritated part (left zone). The difference between the expression of the NOSi in the irritated part and the expression of the NOSi in the non-irritated part was measured for each of the groups A and C, and expressed as percentages (see Table below and Figure 2).

Difference between the expression of NOSI in the irritated part% and in the non-irritated part Group C Group C 0, supplemented with Lactowolfberry, shows a decrease in the expression of the NOSI in the irritated area by report to control group A.

Conclusion: The results show that supplementation with Lactowolfberry significantly reduces irritable tissue expression of two specific inflammatory markers, TNF-alpha and NOSi. These results confirm the interest of the use of a Lactowolfberry extract in nutritional supplementation to treat skin disorders related to chronological aging or photoaging, anti-pollution effect and its consequences These data indicate indeed that a Lactowolfberry extract complies The invention improves the inflammatory status of cutaneous tissue.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of a berry extract selected from among wolfberry, blueberry, cranberry, blackberry, currant, white currant, blackcurrant, red currant, raspberry, berry sea buckthorn, strawberry and arbutus, as an anti-pollution agent. 2. The use as claimed in claim 1, as an active ingredient intended to prevent a decrease in and / or to reinforce the cutaneous barrier function with regard to atmospheric pollutants. 3. Use according to claim 1, for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs induced or exacerbated by pollution. 4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims comprising the administration of said extract orally. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said extract is a Wolfberry extract. Use according to claim 5, wherein the Wolfberry extract contains at least zeaxanthin or a derivative thereof and / or Lycium barbarum polysaccharide (LBP). The use according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the Wolfberry extract contains from 0.01 to 0.30% by weight, in particular from 0.03 to 0.12% by weight, or even 0.06 to 0.10% by weight of zeaxanthin or derivatives, including zeaxanthin dipalmitate and other zeaxanthin derivatives, based on its total weight. 8. Use according to any one of claims 5 to 7, wherein the Wolfberry extract is obtained by extraction of Wolfberry fruit from at least one plant of the species Lycium barbarum in a liquid medium containing milk or milk. milk protein. 9. Use according to any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the Wolfberry extract contains at least zeaxanthin dipalmitate and Lycium barbarum polysaccharide. 10. Use according to any one of claims 5 to 9, characterized in that the Wolfberry extract is associated with at least an effective amount of at least one microorganism, including probiotic, one of its fractions or one of its metabolites. 11. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said microorganism is selected from ascomycetes such as Saccharomyces, Yarrowia, Kluyveromyces, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Debaromyces, Candida, Pichia, Aspergillus and Penicillium, bacteria of the genus Bifidobacterium, Bacteroides, Fusobacterium, Melissococcus, Propionibacterium, Enterococcus, Lactococcus, Staphylococcus, Peptostrepococcus, Bacillus, Pediococcus, Micrococcus, Leuconostoc, Weissella, Aerococcus, Oenococcus, Lactobacillus and mixtures thereof. 12. Use according to any one of claims 10 and 11, characterized in that the microorganism is of the species Lactobacillus paracasei, one of its fractions or one of its metabolites, and in particular the strain Lactobacillus paracasei deposited the 12/01/99 under the designation CNCM I-2116. 13. Cosmetic treatment method for protecting the keratinous substances of a subject against the deleterious effects of atmospheric pollutants, comprising at least one step of administering to said subject an effective quantity of a berry extract chosen from Wolfberry, blueberry. , cranberry, blackberry, gooseberry, white currant, blackcurrant, red currant, raspberry, sea buckthorn, strawberry and arbutus, especially Wolfberry. 14. A cosmetic treatment method for preventing a decrease in and / or reinforcing the cutaneous barrier function with regard to the atmospheric pollutants of a subject comprising at least one step of administering to said subject an effective amount of an extract of selected from Wolfberry, blueberry, cranberry, blackberry, currant, white currant, black currant, red currant, raspberry, sea buckthorn, strawberry and arbutus, and more specifically of Wolfberry. 15. A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable carrier, at least one effective amount of a berry extract selected from among wolfberries, blueberries, cranberries, blackberries, currants, white currants, black currant, red currant, raspberry, sea buckthorn, strawberry and arbutus, and more particularly Wolfberry, in combination with an effective amount of at least one anti-pollution agent.