FR2923159A1 - Use of glycerol monoalkyl ether e.g. as antioxidant/antiradical agents, to prevent/reduce effect of oxidative stress/free radical on the skin and/or integuments and as agent to fight against skin aging - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of at least one glycerol monoalkyl ether, in a composition comprising a medium, and as antioxidant or antiradical agent, is claimed. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Nootropic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

Use of a monoalkyl ether of alvcrerol as an antioxidant

The field of the invention relates to the use of a glycerol monoalkyl ether or cosmetic compositions containing it for combating the effects of oxidative stress on the skin and / or its integuments.

By `skin 'is meant according to the invention an extended definition to the skin, scalp and semi-mucous membranes, including the lips. By 'dander', we mean hair, eyelashes, and / or nails. The present invention relates to the use, in particular cosmetic use, of at least one glycerol monoalkyl ether as antioxidant or antiradical agent (ARL). The glycerol monoalkyl ether is especially intended as such according to the invention for preventing and / or treating chronological and / or photoinduced aging, in particular chronological and / or photoinduced skin aging. The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition containing, as sole antiradical agent, a glycerol monoalkyl ether, for preventing and / or treating chronological or photoinduced skin aging. It also relates to a cosmetic skin treatment method for combating cutaneous aging induced by oxidative stress, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin exhibiting such signs of cutaneous aging at least one composition comprising at least one composition a monoalkyl ether of glycerol. The role of cell oxidation in aging, especially cutaneous, whether intrinsic or extrinsic, in particular photoinduced, is known. This aging is reflected by various clinical signs including the appearance of 30 fine lines and wrinkles, and the appearance of age spots, increasing with age. In addition, the appearance of the skin or scalp deteriorates. The complexion of the skin is generally modified: it is paler, dull, yellow and sometimes gray; the complexion presents a heterogeneity and it can exist on certain zones diffuse irritations. Another clinical sign of aging is the dry, rough appearance of the skin, which is mainly due to greater desquamation. Finally, there is a loss of firmness and tone of the skin that, as for wrinkles and fine lines, is at least partly explained by a 20

dermal and epidermal atrophy as well as flattening of the whole dermis / epidermis. The skin is softer, flaccid, thinned.

Thus, the clinical signs of skin aging result essentially from a dysfunction of the main biological mechanisms involved in the skin. Among these biological mechanisms, oxidative stress largely contributes to the skin aging phenomenon.

Oxidative stress is the result of an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species, including the superoxide anion, hydrogen peroxide and the hydroxyl radical, and the antioxidant mechanisms of cellular defense. Reactive oxygen species are produced during respiration, inflammation and other cellular metabolic events.

Oxidative stress is also related to external agents such as ultraviolet radiation (including UVA), pollution or various chemical agents with which the skin may be in contact (chlorine, cleaning products, etc.).

It is notably known that ultraviolet radiation, as well as certain pollutants such as ozone and heavy metals present in the environment, generate free radicals which are particularly likely to reduce the ability of fibroblasts to produce collagen and to decompose it. (OKADA Tomio, KOSHO-KAI Bulletin, 1993, Vol 17, No. 4, pp. 202-206), but also to promote cross-linking of collagen fibers (HIROSE Suberu et al., J. Soc., Cosmet Chem. Japan, 1993, Vol 26, No. 4, pp. 289-294) and fragmenting the mucopolysaccharides (KASHIMURA Naoki, "Active Oxygen", pp. 464-468, KYORITSU Publishing Company, 1990), so that they contribute to the premature aging of the skin. The production of reactive oxygen species causes damage to DNA, proteins or lipids. The cells have developed mechanisms developed to avoid these consequences, for example enzymes (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase) or non-enzymatic antioxidant systems.

Prevent or treat damage caused by free radicals on skin, leather

hair or hair, especially skin aging, whether intrinsic or extrinsic, and the clinical signs described above, is to maintain or improve the appearance of the skin, scalp or hair.

Antioxidants can fight free radicals (0-2, HO °, '02 ...) resulting in chain reactions that can damage DNA, among others, and more generally inducing cell aging. The role of anti-oxidants is thus to capture free radicals and convert them into substances that are harmless to metabolism. Antioxidants can be used in various cosmetic areas such as anti-aging, protection against oxidative stress and especially exogenous due to exposure to the sun, the environment (pollution, smoke), anti-aging responses. inflammatory (ROS important factor in inflammation) or anti-pigmentation (synthesis of melanin is an oxidative process).

Many antioxidants already exist such as tocopherol (vitamin E) or its derivatives, vitamin C or its derivatives, carotenoids, ubiquinone, green tea, etc.

There remains, however, the need to find other antioxidants or anti-radical agents.

The Applicant has demonstrated that a glycerol monoalkyl ether, in particular glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (or ethylglycerin INCI name) has an antioxidant or antiradical activity. These compounds were known in the prior art as additives for skin care compositions (DE 414 0474) or as antimicrobial agents for use in deodorant compositions (US 5 516 510).

However, to our knowledge, the antioxidant activity of these compounds, or their specific use in skincare products as agents for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs, had never been described. aging, in particular linked to oxidative stress. The invention thus relates, according to a first of its aspects, to the cosmetic use in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium of at least one glycerol monoalkyl ether as antioxidant or antiradical agent.

In particular, said glycerol monoalkyl ether is intended to prevent and / or reduce the effects of oxidative stress or free radicals on the skin and / or its integuments.

It also relates, in another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium of at least one glycerol monoalkyl ether, as an agent for combating the cutaneous signs of aging in particular induced by oxidative stress.

In particular, the oxidative stress may come from exposure to the sun or may be due to the environment such as pollution or smoke. In particular, the use according to the invention aims to attenuate the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the signs of cutaneous aging of actinic origin.

Among the cutaneous signs of aging induced by oxidative stress, in particular of actinic origin, mention is made in particular of a loss of firmness and / or of elasticity and / or of tonicity and / or of the suppleness of the skin, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, expression wrinkles, especially at the level of the forehead and the intersuracillary space, the wrinkles and / or peri-oral wrinkles, and / or the relaxation at the level of the contour of the lips, in particular at the level of white lip (area between the upper lip and the nose), a dull and / or heterogeneous appearance of the complexion, the papery appearance of the skin.

This use will be especially for people with mature skin, or very mature. By mature skin according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 40 years. By very mature skins according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 50 years, in particular at least 60 years, or even 65 years.

Expression wrinkles are produced under the effect of the stress exerted on the skin by the skin muscles which allow mimicry. Depending on the shape of the face, the frequency of mimicry and possible tics, they can appear from childhood. Some environmental factors such as sun exposure, as well as age do not intervene in their genesis but can dig them further and make them permanent. Expression lines are characterized by the presence of furrows around the orifices of the nose (nasolabial folds), the mouth (para-buccal wrinkles and so-called bitterness wrinkles) and the eyes (wrinkles of the paw d 'oie), around which lie the skin muscles, as well as between the eyebrows (wrinkles of the glabella or the lion) and on the forehead. In particular, it will seek to prevent and / or smooth forehead wrinkles and intersurillary space.

The papery appearance of the skin is characterized by a change in the visual appearance, as well as the resistance to touch, of the skin. Specifically, the skin visually looks like a cigarette paper giving it an appearance similar to that of a papyrus leaf. In addition, when it is slightly pinched between the thumb and forefinger, the skin forms fine folds, acute and numerous having the appearance of a crumpled paper. Finally, the touch of the skin shows that its superficial parts are like floating on the deep parts, giving the skin, at the very advanced stage of papery appearance, the appearance of a crumpled paper. The papery appearance of the skin is visible on the face and even more characteristic on the back of the hands of the elderly.

The compositions according to the invention intended to prevent and / or smooth the expression lines will be applied on the periphery of the orifices that constitute the nose (nasolabial folds), the mouth (para-buccal wrinkles and so-called bitterness wrinkles) and the eyes (wrinkles of the crow's feet), around which lie the skin muscles, as well as between the eyebrows (wrinkles of the glabella or the lion) and on the forehead. In particular, it will seek to prevent and / or smooth forehead wrinkles and intersurillary space. The compositions according to the invention intended to prevent and / or treat the aging of the contour of the lips will in particular be applied to menopausal women, in particular at the level of the white lip.

The compositions according to the invention intended to prevent and / or treat the papery appearance of the skin will be applied in particular on the back of the hands. The compositions according to the invention intended to reduce the appearance and / or the visibility of the pores will be applied in particular at the T zone (forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), and in particular in Asian or Caucasian populations. The use of antioxidant active agents may be useful in anti-aging compositions or in soothing compositions intended to combat inflammation of the skin that may be induced by inflammation or in depigmenting compositions.

The compositions used according to the invention may be makeup, cleaning or care products for keratinous substances, in particular the skin. More specifically, the makeup products may be of the foundation type, blush or eye shadow, anti-ring, blush, or a body make-up or skin coloring product. The cleaning products may be a lotion, a gel, a mousse, a cleaning wipe. The skincare products may be a protective, treatment or care composition for the face, hands, feet, large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams, creams). night, make-up remover, anti-sun composition, body care or care milks, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, artificial tanning composition); or an aftershave composition.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, as sole antioxidant or antiradical agent, a glycerol monoalkyl ether, for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs of chronological or photoinduced aging. MONOALKYL ETHERS OF GLYCEROL

The monoalkyl ether (s) of glycerol used according to the invention correspond to the general formula (I) R-O-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 OH

wherein R is a linear or branched C6-C18 alkyl group, the alkyl group may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups and / or C1-C4 alkoxy groups and / or the alkyl chain may be interrupted by a two, three or four oxygen atoms. Preferably, the radical R is a C8-C12 alkyl group.

According to a preferred embodiment, the radical R is a 2-ethyl hexyl or dodecyl group, even more preferentially a 2-ethyl hexyl group. A preferred compound according to the invention is glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether or 3 - [(2-ethylhexyl) oxy] -1,2 propanediol, otherwise known as ethylhexylglycerin (INCI name) (CAS #: 70445-33-9 ), of formula (II) H3C Or OH

Such a compound is in particular marketed under the name Sensiva SC 50 by Schülke & Mayr (100% active ingredient).

The amount of glycerol monoalkyl ether to be used in a composition according to the invention depends on the desired cosmetic or therapeutic effect, and can therefore vary to a large extent.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise a glycerol monoalkyl ether in a proportion of about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular of about 0.01% by weight. % to about 5% by weight of active material, and more preferably from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, for example from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, and more preferably from 0, 1% to 0.5% by weight of glycerol monoalkyl ether active material relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENICAL

The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials and has a pleasant appearance, odor and feel.

The compositions according to the invention as defined above and according to the chosen embodiment (choice of the ingredient promoting the solubilization and / or the stabilization of said monoalkyl glycerol ethers), may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used to topical application and especially in the form of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or H / E / H), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes , niosomes, oleosomes), nanoemulsions, or thin films. It is also possible to use a composition according to the invention in the form of a water and oil biphase.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu. Other types of KSG marketed by Shin Etsu can also be used, such as KSG-16.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants, pearlescent agents, particles. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles.

A composition of the invention may contain at least one UV filter. In particular, it may contain at least one organic UV filter chosen from hydrophilic organic screening agents, lipophilic organic screening agents and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, one or more physical filters can be associated with it. Examples of organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B range that may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, designated above under their CTFA name: Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA): PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name UVINUL. P25 by BAS F, Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name EUSOLEX HMS by RONAIEM INDUSTRIES, Ethylhexyl salicylate (or ethyl hexyl salicylate) sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by HAARMANN and REIMER, Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name DIPSAL by SCHER, - TEA Salicylate, sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by HAARMANN and REIMER, Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, - Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, Dér cinnamic ivides: - Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (or Octyl Methoxycinnamate) sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by Hoffmann La Roche, - Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, - Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, -Cinoxate, - DEA Methoxycinnamate, - Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, -Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Derivatives of 13,13-diphenylacrylate: - Octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-13,13-diphenylacrylate) sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, - Etocrylene, sold especially under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF, Derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF; Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF; Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone; sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, - Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, - Benzophenone-5-Ben zophenone-6 sold under the trade name HELISORB 11 by NORQUAY -Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name SPECTRA-SORB UV-24 by AMERICAN CYANAMID-Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, -Benzophenone-12

Derivatives of benzylidene camphor: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD by Chimex, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by Chimex, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO by CHIMEX, -Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by CHIMEX, -Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by CHIMEX, derivatives of phenyl benzimidazole: -Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the name trade name EUSOLEX 232 by MERCK, - Benzimidazilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by HAARMANN and REIMER, derivatives of triazine: -Anisotriazine sold under the trade name TINOSORB S by CIBA GEIGY, -Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the name of om commercial UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V, Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: -Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatriazole by Rhodia Chimie, anthranilic derivatives: - Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by Haarmann and REIMER, imidazoline derivatives: - Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Derivatives of benzalmalonate: - Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE - and mixtures thereof. The more particularly preferred organic UV screening agents are chosen from the following compounds: ethylhexyl salicylate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid (phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid (terephthalylidene dicamphosulphonic acid), . Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor), Benzimidazilate, Anisotriazine, Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl-Butamido triazone, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Methylene) bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The organic filter (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and better still 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As physical filters which may also be present in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments and nano-pigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, in particular the oxides of titanium, iron, zirconium and zinc or cerium, and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments), optionally coated.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides pigments, silica powder, a colloidal amorphous silica; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned in particular carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, Sepigel-type acrylamide gelling agents such as Sepigel 305 from Seppic, xanthan gums, guar gums, cellulose gums, alginates and mixtures thereof. We can also mention hectorites.

ADDITIONAL COMPOUNDS According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention may comprise an adjunct antioxidant agent.

These antioxidants include tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves such as those of the company Silab , green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, a brown algae extract pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane, chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelants, such as BHT BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, phloretin, TotarolTM or Podocarpus totara extract containing totarol (totara-8, 11, 13-trienol or 2-phenenanthrenol, 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9, 10-octahydro-4b, 8,8-trimethyl-1 (1-methylethyl) - a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun, hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, an extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704, a pomegranate fruit extract (Punica Granatum), such as that marketed by Draco Natural products.

As another anti-aging agent, mention may be made of DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (B carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives, and acid. jasmonic As a preferred adjunct antioxidant, ferulic acid will be used in particular; serine; phloretin, pomegranate extract, biotin, chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, caprylyl glycol, phloretine, TotarolTM, a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

The composition used according to the present invention may further contain additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.

The additional active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists ( PBR), the agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, the agents stimulating the energy metabolism of the cells, the tensing agents, the liporestructuring agents, the slimming agents, the agents promoting the cutaneous microcirculation, the soothing agents and / or irritants, sebum regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, s astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and anti-acne agents.

In particular, the composition used according to the invention further comprises an additional active agent chosen from among moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, the agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, the agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, the NO inhibitors -synthases, the peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists (PBR), the agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, the agents stimulating the energy metabolism of the cells, the tensing agents, the liporestructuring agents, the slimming agents, the agents promoting the cutaneous microcirculation, soothing agents and / or anti-irrita nts, sebo-regulators or antiseborrhoeic agents, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and anti-acne agents.

According to a first mode, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent.

According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one desquamating agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one agent improving the barrier function.

According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one depigmenting agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one dermodecontractant. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one anti-glycation agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one agent stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes. According to another mode, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one agent promoting the maturation of the horny envelope. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one NO-synthase inhibiting agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonist (PBR) agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one agent increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland.

According to another mode, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one agent stimulating the energy metabolism of the cells. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one tensing agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one liporestructuring agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one slimming agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one agent promoting cutaneous microcirculation.

According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one soothing and / or anti-irritating agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agent.

According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one astringent agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one healing agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one anti-inflammatory agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one anti-acne agent. According to another embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents.

According to another mode, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one sunscreen.

Examples of such compounds are described below. 1. Moisturizing or Humectant Agents As humectants or moisturizers, there may be mentioned in particular glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata cylindra extract marketed under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as NOF corporation Lipidure-HM, betaglucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizer chosen from urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF corporation. beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

2. desquamating agents "desquamating agent" means any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as R-hydroxyacids (BHA), in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid in INCI name); α-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid; urea and its derivatives; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

As other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl acid ) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucase such as those described in the patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, ficus opuntia indica flower extract such as Silab Exfolactive, 8-hexadecene 1,16-dicarboxylic acid, glucose and vitamin F esters, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred desquamating agents include betahydroxyacids, such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, it will be used in the compositions of the invention an edsquamant agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof. 3. Agents Which Improve the Barrier Function As agents improving the barrier function, mention may be made in particular of arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane, an extract of wild yam rhizome (dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y from Active Organics, plankton extracts like Secma's omega plankton, yeast extracts like Coletica's Relipidium, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverin, such as a cedar bud extract that the Gatuline Zen of Gattefossé, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine SLC by Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as lipidessence of Coletica; unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rosebud oil and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made in particular of ceramides or derivatives, in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2 -hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI name: hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine), sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts.

Preferred agents having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier include an extract of Thermus thermophilus, a wild yam rhizome extract (dioscorea villosa), a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, arginine, serine, ceramides including type 3 and 5; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the serine, the aginin or their mixture will be used.

4. Depiqmenting Agents As depigmenting agents, mention may in particular be made of vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives. derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetine sulphonate, l lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologs, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap; a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the molasses extract marketed by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, without this list being exhaustive.

As preferred depigmenting agents, use will be made of vitamin C and its derivatives and especially the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffructicosa such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B. 5. Dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents Mention may be made, for example, of manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an Iris pallida extract, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as Wild yam and carbonyl amines described in application EP1484052. As examples of sapogenins, mention may be made of those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extracted in particular from Dioscorea opposita or any extract which naturally closes or after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, lily extract and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilageine and sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla root) or Actigen Y from Actives Organics; or ginger. DMAE (dimethyl MEA), extracts of sea fennel, Montpellier rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an Acmella Oleracea extract such as Gatuline expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned.

Preferred dermorelaxing agents include adenosine, manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.

6. Anti-glvcation agents Anti-glycation agent is a compound which prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen. As anti-glycation agents, mention may in particular be made of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG by COSMETOCHEM, ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548; , FR 2,796,278 and FR 2,802,420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name AMADORINE by the company SOLABIA, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name ALISTIN), an extract of Helianthus annuus, such as Silab's Antiglyskin, wine extracts such as the powdered white wine extract on a maltodextrin support sold under the name Ination Dehydrated white wine 2F by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777 from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, a black tea extract such as Kombuchka Sederma and their mixtures.

Preferred anti-glycation agents include blueberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus) and black tea extract.

7. Agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their de-irradiation: Among the active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those which act: either on the synthesis of collagen, such as as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; and arginine. or on the inhibition of the degradation of collagen, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as, more particularly, MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, medicago sativa extracts such as Vitanol from Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) marketed under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (marketed for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704; dipalmitol HYDROXYPROLINE marketed by Seppic under the name SEPILIFT DPHP: Baccharis genistelloide or Saccharin marketed by SILAB, a moringa extract such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; the sage extract described in application FR-A-2812544 of the labiate family (salvia officinalis from Flacksmann), the Rhododendron extract, the blueberry extract, a vaccineium myrtillus extract such as those described in the application FR-A-2814950. or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the elastin family (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C. or on the inhibition of the degradation of elastin, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valylglycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with an alcohol C1-C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica. or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina'ine from Secma; the essence of Lucas Meyer's Mamaku, a watercress extract (Odraline de Silab). or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the Salina zooplankton extract sold by Seporga under the trade name GP4G; yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MÜLLER under the trademark Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil.

Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made in particular of the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC; and Salina zooplankton extract marketed by SEPORGA under the trade designation GP4G; Copper tripeptide from PROCYTE; ; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397.

It is preferable to use an active agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, chosen from glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulating agents, elastin degradation inhibiting agents, agents that stimulate the synthesis of fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, use will be made of an active agent stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans chosen from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, the essence of Mamaku, an extract of cress and their mixtures.

As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: synthetic peptides such as amin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as the product marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; arginine; an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift lycopene; an extract of lychee; an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; retinol and derivatives in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine; N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C1-C6 alcohol. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne from Secma; the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer, the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC. 8. Agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes The agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts that can be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean ( for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8 or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C. Preferably, an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.

Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos' Amacha liquid E, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma's Capislow, papaya extract, olive leaf and lemon extracts such as Vincient Xyline, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha liquid E Ichimaru Pharcos, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, walnut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin marketed by Sederma.

Among the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate, such as that sold by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohésine; and a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate. As agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned also estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.

As active agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes, mention may be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH- VEG 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); a hydrolysed soy protein extract such as SILAB RIDULISSE; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trademark Structurine; a water soluble extract of maize such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate.

9. Agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope It will be possible to use in the compositions of the invention agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in activity. transglutaminases. There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished).

10. NO-svnthase Inhibitors The agent having a NO synthase inhibitor action may be chosen from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the species Vitis vinifera 35 sold especially by the company Euromed under the name 5 Leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect, or finally by the company Hansen under the name extract of grape marc ; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT; the extracts of a plant of the species Gingko biloba preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract and mixtures thereof. 11. Benzodiazepine Peripheral Receptor Antagonists (PBR) For example, 1- (2-chlorophenyl) -N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide; the compounds described in WO03 / 030937, WO03 / 068753, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in document WO00 / 44384.

12. Agents Increasing the Activity of the Sebaceous Gland Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof. 13. Agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells may for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as Sederma's Phosphovital, the mixture of sodium salts, of manganese, of zinc and magnesium of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid such as Physiogenyl of Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3 Seppic and mixtures thereof; beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as that marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry; 14. Tensing agents The tensing agent that can be used according to the invention is intended to mean compounds that can have a tensor effect, that is to say, that can tend the skin. In general, the term "tensioning agent" according to the invention means any compounds that are soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration. to which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water a shrinkage of more than 15% in the test described below. The maximum concentration at which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance is determined to within 10% and preferably to within 5%. The term homogenous medium means a medium that does not have aggregates visible to the naked eye. For the determination of the said maximum concentration, the tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with stirring at the deflocculator at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., and the mixture is then stirred for one hour. It is then observed after 24 hours if the mixture thus prepared is of homogeneous appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye).

The tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test.

A homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at the concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described above. 30 μl of the homogeneous mixture is deposited on a rectangular test piece (10 × 40 mm, thus having an initial width Lo of 10 mm) of elastomer having a modulus of elasticity of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm. After drying for 3 hours at 22 ° C. and 40% relative humidity RH, the elastomer specimen has a retracted width, noted L 3h, due to the tension exerted by the tensioning agent deposited.

The tensor effect (ET) of said agent is then quantified in the following way: 'ET' = (L ° - L3h / L °) x100 in with Lo = initial width 10mm and L3h = width after 3h of drying The tensioning agent can be chosen from: a) vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; (b) polysaccharides of natural origin; (c) mixed silicates; d) colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; e) synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof. Those skilled in the art will be able to choose, in the chemical categories listed above, the materials corresponding to the tensor test as described above. These include, in particular: (a) proteins and hydrolysates of vegetable proteins, in particular of maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, pepper, pea, bean, lentil, soybean and lupine, (b) polysaccharides of natural origin, in particular (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch obtained especially from rice, maize, potato, cassava, pea, wheat, oats, etc ... or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, advantageously in aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) the latices constituted by the resin Shellac, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic derivatives, and mixtures thereof, (c) mixed silicates, especially phyllosilicates and in particular Laponites, (d) colloidal particles of inorganic filler having a number average diameter of from 0.1 to 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm, and chosen for example from: silica, silica-alumina composites, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, sulphate of calcium, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. As silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by the company Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA. (e) synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as propylthio (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane ( polymethyl methacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid). Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO21. The tensing agent will be present in the composition in an amount effective to obtain the biological effect sought according to the invention. By way of example, the tensioning agent may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight of active material, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of active ingredient. , relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "active material" is intended to exclude the medium in which the tensioning agent is optionally solubilized or dispersed in its commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles. 15. Liporestructuring agents By liporestructive agents, according to the invention is meant agents capable of stimulating lipogenesis and promoting adipocyte differentiation, thus making it possible to avoid or slow down the melting of the fats contained in the skin support tissues, otherwise named melting of the lipo-structure of the skin.

By lipo-structure of the skin is meant the network of lipid cells which forms the volumes on which the skin of the face rests and molds. These agents are intended to - reduce the loss of skin density and / or melting of the lipostructure of the skin, in particular at the level of the cheeks and the contour of the eye, and / or - avoid sagging and / or the digging of facial volumes, the loss of consistency of the skin and / or its maintenance, especially at the level of the cheeks and the contour of the eye, and / or - to improve the volumes underlying the skin of the face and / or the neck, especially at the level of the cheeks, the oval of the face and the contour of the eye, and / or - to improve the density, the rebound and the maintenance of the skin, in particular at the level of the cheeks , the oval of the face and the contour of the eye, and / or - reshape the features of the face, especially the oval of the face. Examples of liporestructuring agents that may be mentioned include a black tea extract, such as the fermented black tea extract marketed by Sederma under the name Kombuchka, and an extract of Artemisia abrotanum, such as that marketed by Silab under the name Pulpactyl name.

16. Slimming agents As slimming agents (lipolytics), caffeine, theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine, sericin, asiatic acid, acefylline, aminophylline, chloroethylthéophylline, diprofylline, diniprophylline may be mentioned in particular. , etamiphylline and its derivatives, etofylline, proxyphylline; extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, mate, cola (Cola Nitida) and in particular the dry extract of guarana fruit (Paulina sorbilis) containing 8 to 10% of caffeine; extracts of climbing ivy (Hedera Helix), arnica (Arnica Montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), ginseng (Panax ginseng), St. John's Wort (Byperycum Perforatum), Common Rump (Ruscus aculeatus L), Ulmaria (Filipendula ulmaria L), Orthosiphon (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), Birch (Betula alba), Cecropia and Argan; ginkgo biloba extracts, horsetail extracts, escin extracts, cangzhu extracts, chrysanthellum indicum extracts, diosgenin-rich dioscorate extracts or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and their derivatives, Ballote extracts, extracts of Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, Antirobia, the extract of petit grain of bigarrade; an extract of hulls of cocoa beans (theobroma cacao) such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Caobromine.

17. Agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation The active agent acting on the cutaneous microcirculation may be used to prevent tarnishing of the complexion and / or to improve the appearance of the contour of the eye, in particular to reduce dark circles. It may be chosen, for example, from a maritime pine bark extract such as Pycnogenol from Biolandes, manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn from Seppic), an extract from Ammi visnaga, such as Visnadine from Indena, extract from lupine (Eclaline de Silab), hydrolysed wheat protein / palmitic acid coupling with palmitic acid such as Carilene Laboratories Epaline 100, bitter orange flower extract (Silab remodulin), vitamin P and its derivatives such as methyl Sodium esetetol monoethanoate sold under the name Permethol by the company Sephytal, extracts of ruscus, chestnut turkey, ivy, ginseng and sweet clover, caffeine, nicotinate and its derivatives, lysine and its derivatives as I 'Asparlyne de Solabia, a black tea extract such as Sederma Kombuchka; rutin salts; an algae extract of corallina officinalis such as that marketed by CODIF; and their mixtures.

Preferred agents favoring cutaneous microcirculation include caffeine, a bigarade flower extract, a black tea extract, rutin salts, an extract of coralline officinalis algae. 18. Soothing or anti-irritant agents By soothing agent means a compound to reduce the sensation of tingling, itching or tightness of the skin. As soothing agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, C B5, B3, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and the extracts of plants containing them, glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) as well as the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol, diesterphosphoric vitamin E and C such as Seppic's Sepivital EPC, extracts of chamomile, allantoin, unsaturated oils in omega 3 such as rosehip, blackcurrant, ecchium, fish oil, h calophilum oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name "Seppicalm VG" by the company Seppic, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami such as that sold under the name Cehami PF by the company TRI-K Industries, an extract of sunflower seeds, in particular Silab's helioxin, an extract of Linum usitatissimum seeds such as Silab's Sensiline, tocotrienols, piperonal, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium such as that sold under the name Canadian Willowherb Extract by FYTOKEM PRODUCTS, aloe vera, phytosterols, cornflower water, rose water, mint extract, particular of mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by r Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as the Rose Flower Herbasol extract of the company Cosmetochem, shea butter, a mixture of barley seed wax fraction obtained by supercritical CO2, shea butter and argan oil such as Pentapharm's Stimu-tex AS, alkaline earth salts, especially strontium, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As preferred soothing agents according to the invention, use will be made of: β-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) and the plants containing them (ex : Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and its salts; extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol; chamomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name Seppicalm VG by the company Seppic; aloe vera, rose water, mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures. 19. Sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents Seboregulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents are especially agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. These include: - retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine, sold in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate such as Cuivridone from Solabia; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; linseed extracts such as the one sold under the name Linumine by the company Lucas Meyer; Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos; mixtures of argan oil, of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and of sesame seed extract, such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by the company Pentapharm; mixtures of extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as the product sold under the name Seborilys by the green tech company; extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company Euromed; mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear by the company Rahn; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl by Serobiological Laboratories; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; extracts of alga Laminaria, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by the company Biotechmarine; oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif; cane sugar extracts such as the product sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by the company Ichthyol; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains, such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical; extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland; extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by the company Alban Muller; extracts of quillaja saponaria, such as the product sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; and - their mixtures.

As preferred anti-seborrhoeic active agents, mention may be made of: benzoyl peroxide, vitamin B 6 (or pyridoxine), zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; extracts of Ulmaria (Spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; - and their mixtures.

Preferably, the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is chosen from: zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, carboxylate, zinc, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; and preferably zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate) or zinc salicylate; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; - and their mixtures.

The anti-seborrhoeic active agent is for example present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. astringent agents By astringent agents is meant according to the invention agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles. As astringent agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of extracts of mushroom pulp (polyporus officinalis) such as "Laricyl LS8865" from Cognis, extracts of Terminalia catappa and sambucus nigra, such as the Phytofirm LS9120 from Cognis, gall-nut extracts such as Tanlex VE from Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminum hydroxychloride, extracts of centella (ex Plantactiv centella de Cognis), di-ethyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as Varisoft 432 CG from Degussa, extracts of brown of india, mauve extracts, extracts of Hammamelis, extracts of sweet almonds, marshmallow roots and flax seeds such as Almondermin LS 3380 from Cognis, burdock extracts, nettle extracts , extracts of birch, extracts of horsetail, extracts of chamomile such as those sold under the name Extrapone 9 special by the company Symrise, extracts of scutellaria, extracts of Ulmaire (for example the Cytob iol Ulmaire de Libiol), a blend of extracts of white ginger, horsetail, nettle, rosemary, yucca such as Bell flavors & fragrances Herb extract B1348, extracts of acacia, elm, white willow, cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, gentian extracts, cucumber, walnut, the mixture of extracts of ratanhia, grapefruit, grindelia and oak gall as Alban Muller's Epilami.

Preferred astringent agents according to the invention will be scutellaria extracts, ulmary extracts, close-up queen extracts, gentian extracts, burdock extracts and mixtures thereof.

21. Healing agents Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also white lily extracts (such as Phytelene). Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast extract such as the healing wound LS LO / 7225B from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes TRF from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as Vincience GP4G, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Souci Ami Liposolible, horsetail extracts, lemon bark extracts such as Cosmetochem's Herbasol lemon, extracts of helichryse, extracts of millefeuilles, and folic acid. Preferred healing agents according to the invention will be arginine, serine, folic acid, tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof. 22. Antiinflammatory Agents As particular antiinflammatory agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azealic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, propionate of clobetasol, folic acid; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures. As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, there will be mentioned azelaic acid, folic acid, an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures. 23. Anti-acne agents In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition may further comprise at least one anti-acne active agent. By anti-acne active, is meant in particular any active having effects on the specific flora of oily skin such as for example Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes). These effects can be bactericidal. As anti-bactericidal active agents, mention may in particular be made of: the active agents and preservatives with anti-microbial activity mentioned in application DE 10324567, the Asian acid, the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl trimethylpentyl 2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), sold in particular under the name Octopirox by Clariant; citronellic acid, perillic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-25-enecarboxylic acid), and glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine), for example sold under the name Sensiva SC 50 by the Shulke & Mayr company, - caprylate / glyceryl caprate, for example sold under the name Capmul MCM by ABITEC; Calcium and sodium phosphosilicate, sold in particular under the names Bioactive glasspowder and Actysse Premier Be by the company Schott Glass; silver-based particles, for example those sold under the name Metashine ME 2025 PS by the company Nippon Sheet Glass; the hop cone extract (Humulus Lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as that sold under the name HOP CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte; the extract of Millepertius obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction such as that sold under the name ST John's Wort CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte, - the mixture of extracts of scutellaria baicalensis roots, of paeonia suffruticosa and of glycyrrhiza glabra, such as that sold under the name BMB-CF by the company Naturogin argan extract such as Argapure LS9710 from COGNIS; - bearberry leaf extracts such as the one sold under the name "Melfade-J" by Pentapharm; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, such as Acnacidol P from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl p-tolylsulfone, such as Amicale Flowable from Angus, malachite powder, zinc oxide such as Zincare from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, the acid arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G Seppic, caprylyl glycol, acid 10- 2-hydroxy-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect such as cocoampho sodium acetate or diacetate disodium such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as Emal 270 D of Kao, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, maleate of branched C12_13 dialcohols such as Cosmacol EMI, monoesters of propylene glycol such as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, lauryl dimethylamine betaine such as Empigen BB / LS and quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in patent FR 0 108 283 and mixtures thereof.

As preferred antimicrobial agents, one will use in the compositions of the invention an agent selected from octoglycerin or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. Other additional anti-acne active agents may be added to the aforementioned anti-acne active ingredients.

It is possible to cite the active agents having bacterial anti-adhesion effects or acting on the biofilm of the bacteria to prevent their multiplication. As agents that prevent and / or reduce the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made in particular of: phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil , calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or certain surfactants such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate (7 0E), hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, branched C12-C13 di-alcohols tartrate described in EP 1,129,694 and their mixtures. In particular with regard to the propagation of P acnes, or as active agents acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their proliferation, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, polyvinyl alcohol such as Celvol 540 PV alcohol from Celanese Chemical, rapeseed oil such as Akorex L from Karlshamns, and fructose derivatives and mixtures thereof. The active agent against acne may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may comprise in addition, at least one additional ingredient intended to confer an immediate visual effect which will be relayed by the biological effect of the assets mentioned above and / or intended to amplify the effect of the biological assets mentioned above via a mechanical action (ex : abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents). Mention may in particular be made of matting agents, fillers with a blooming effect, fluorescent agents, agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin and abrasive or exfoliating fillers. Examples of such compounds are described below.

Mattifying agents Mattifying agents are agents intended to make the skin visibly duller and less glossy. The matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect. The matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a corn starch, kaolinite, talc, a pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, organopolysiloxane powders crosslinked elastomer coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and in particular mixed silicate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of matting agents that may be mentioned include: rice or maize starch, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo by the company National Starch, kaolinite; silicas; - talc; an extract of pumpkin seeds as marketed under the name Curbilene by the company Indena; cellulose microbeads as described in patent application EP 1 562 562; - fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide , acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742; microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by EXPANCEL under the names EXPANCEL 551, fillers with an optical effect as described in patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular: polyamide powders (Nylon) ), such as Arkema's Orgasol type nylon 12 particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index of 1.54, silica powders, for example Miyoshi Silica beads SB150 of medium size. microns and refractive index 1.45, - polytetrafluoroethylene powders, such as PTFE ceridust 9205F from Clariant of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.36, - silicone resin powders such as Silicon resin Tospearl 145A of GE Silicone of average size 4.5 microns and refractive index 1.41, - powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, such as PMMA particles Jurymer MB I of Nihon Junyoki of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.49, or the particles Micropearl M100 and F 80 ED of the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku, - the wax powders like the particles Paraffin wax microease 114S of micropowders of average size 7 microns and refractive index 1.54, - polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as the particles Flobeads EA 209 Sumitomo (average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48), elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by SHIN ETSU, and - composite talc / dioxy powders of titanium / alumina / silica, such as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 by the company Catalyst & chemicals, - mixtures thereof, - compounds that absorb and / or adsorb sebum as described in the patent application FR 2 869 796 Mention may in particular be made of: silica powders, such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 marketed by the company MYOSHI, the SUNSPHERE H51, the SUNSPHERE H33 and the SUNSPHERE H53 marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS ; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name SA Sunsphere H-33 and SA Sunsphere H-53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; the amorphous mixed silicates powders, in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that marketed under the name "NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo. polyamide powders (nylon), such as, for example, Orgasol 4000 marketed by Arkema, and acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, such as, for example, COVABEAD LH85 marketed by the company Wackherr; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as for example DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE SKIN OIL ADSORBER marketed by the company Dow Corning, or Ganzpearl GMP-0820 marketed by the company Ganz Chemical; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, the POLY-PORE L200 or the POLY-PORE E200 marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as for example the POLYTRAP 6603 sold by the company Dow Corning; silicate particles, such as alumina silicate; mixed silicate particles, such as: aluminum silicate magnesium particles, such as saponite or aluminum magnesium silicate hydrated with a sodium sulphate sold under the trade name Sumecton by the company Kunimine ; the magnesium silicate complex, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Lucas Meyer's Matipure, and their mixtures. As preferred matting agents, it is possible to use, according to the invention, an extract of pumpkin seeds, a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders. acrylics, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles and mixtures thereof.

Characters with a blooming effect These fillers can be any material that can modify wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties and mask them. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect. As a filler, the following compounds can be exemplified: - porous silica microparticles, for example Myochi's Silica Beads SB 150 and SB 700 of average size of 5 μm and Asahi Glass's SUNSPHERES series H as the H33, H51 of size respectively of 3.5 and 5 pm. hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849; silicone resin powders, for example SILICON Resin Tospearl 145 A DE GE Silicone average size of 4.5pm. powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBI particles from Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μm, the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD LH 85 by the company Wackherr and the expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel. - Wax powders such as paraffin wax microlase 114S micropowders particles of average size of 7pm. the polyethylene powders in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADS EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of 10 μm. the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin under the name KSP 100, KSP 101, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by Shin Etsu. talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders such as for example the Cverleaf AR 80 from Catalyst & Chemical. talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics. synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers, mineral or organic, such as fibers of silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), cellulose modified poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, of polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742. - silicones crosslinked spherical elastomers such as Trefil E-505C or E-506 C from Dow Corning. abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica such as, for example, SP Semanez abrasives or powders of nuts or shells (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem). The fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders. crosslinked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof. The load can be a soft focus load. By soft-focus charge, we mean a charge which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the soft-focus charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical. The soft-focus fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a mean size of 1.8 microns and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3 by the company Nippon Talc, nylon 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example reference H-53 by Asahi Glass, and silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB -700 or SB-150 by the company Miyoshi, this list is not exhaustive. The concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fluorescent agents Fluorescent agents are substances that, under the effect of ultraviolet light and / or visible light, re-emit in the visible light the portion of light absorbed in the same color as that which they absorbed. naturally reflects. The naturally reflected color is thus enhanced by the re-emitted color and appears extremely bright. Examples that may be mentioned include polyamide and / or formaldehyde / benzoguanamine and / or melamine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide colored resins, among colored aminotriazine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide co-condensates and / or metallized polyester flakes and / or their mixtures. These fluorescent pigments may also be in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments. Mention may also be made of the aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent colored sulphonamide co-condensate in medium-sized pink of the 3-4 micron particles sold under the trade name Fiesta Astral Pink FEX-1 and the co-condensate aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent sulphonamide colored in medium-sized blue of the particles 3-4.5 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta Comet Blue FTX-60 by the company Swada or the benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin coated with formaldehyde / urea resin and colored yellow sold under the trade name FB -205 Yellow and the benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin coated with formaldehyde / urea resin and colored red sold under the trade name FB-400 Orange Red by UK company SEUNG CHEMICAL, the orange colored polyamide resin sold under the trade name Flare 911 Orange 4 by Sterling Industrial Colors. The fluorescent substances are preferably present in the composition, at a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition. When the organic fluorescent substances are white, they are also called optical brighteners. The optical brightener has the effect of intensifying the brightness and brightening the hues of the cosmetic compositions comprising them to the application on the skin. Among the optical brighteners, mention may be made more particularly of stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarines and aminocoumarines, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, and derivatives thereof. pyrene and porphyrin derivatives and / or mixtures thereof. Such compounds are for example available under the trade names Tinopal SOP and Uvitex OB ° from CIBA GEIGY.

The optical brighteners preferentially used are sodium 4,4'-bis [(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene-2,2'-disulfonate, 2,5 thiophene di-yl bis (5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole), di-styryl-4,4'biphenyl-di-sodium sulfonate and / or mixtures thereof.

Agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin There may be mentioned in particular: a self-tanning agent, that is to say an agent which, applied to the skin, in particular on the face, makes it possible to obtain a tanning effect of appearance more or less similar to that which may result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp; an additional coloring agent, that is to say any compound having a particular affinity for the skin enabling it to confer on the latter a durable, non-covering coloration (ie not having a tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not removable with water or with the aid of a solvent, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided for example by a makeup pigment; and their mixtures.

Examples of self-tanning agents that may be mentioned include: - dihydoxyacetone (DHA), - erythrulose, and - the combination of a catalytic system formed of: salts and oxides of manganese and / or zinc, and alkaline and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates.

The self-tanning agents are generally chosen from mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5 derivatives. -Diones as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342. DHA will preferably be used.

DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970. In general, the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% of the total weight of the composition. Additional coloring agents that may be mentioned include, for example, plant extracts such as, for example, sorghum extracts obtained from the whole plant, stems, seeds or leaves of the genus Sorghum. The preferred species of Sorghum are chosen from Sorghum bicolor, Sorghum caudatum, Sorghum nervosum, Sorghum durra, Sorghum vulgare and Sorghum in combination with Colletotrichum Graminicola such as those described in the patent application FR0200251. It is also possible to use other dyes which make it possible to modify the color produced by the self-tanning agent.

These dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.

Abrasive fillers or exfoliation agents As exfoliation agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof.

Exfogreen of Solabia (bamboo extract), extracts of strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akenes), peach stone powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally In the field of vegetable powders with an abrasive effect, let us mention the cranberry powder. As abrasive fillers or preferred exfoliation agents according to the invention, mention may be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts.

The additional active ingredient (s) and / or ingredient (s) used in the composition for topical administration according to the invention may represent from 0.0001 to 20%, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and better still from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for preventing and / or treating cutaneous aging induced by oxidative stress comprising at least one step of applying to a skin exhibiting signs of cutaneous aging induced by oxidative stress at least one composition comprising at least one glycerol monoalkyl ether.

In particular, the cutaneous signs of aging induced by oxidative stress are selected from a loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity and / or suppleness of the skin, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, wrinkles expression, particularly at the level of the forehead and intersuracillary space, the perioral wrinkles and / or wrinkles, and / or the relaxation at the level of the contour of the lips, in particular at the level of the white lip, an aspect dull complexion or papery appearance of the skin.

According to a particular process, the glycerol monoalkyl ether is the only antioxidant or antiradical agent present in said composition.

Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for preventing skin irritation induced by oxidative stress comprising at least one step of applying to a skin liable to undergo oxidative stress at least one composition comprising at least one monoalkyl ether of glycerol.

The term oxidative stress as used in this application covers all of the damage caused by an increase in free radicals of oxygen in a subject. The extent of the damage caused by this oxidative stress depends on how quickly the free radicals are created and then inactivated by antioxidants.

In particular, the methods according to the invention will use a composition as defined above.

The following examples illustrate the present invention. EXAMPLES The glycerol monoalkyl ether used is the 2-ethyl hexyl ether of glycerol or ethylhexylglycerin sold under the name Sensiva SC 50 by Schülke & Mayr (100% active ingredient).

10

EXAMPLE 1 Antioxidant Activity of an Alvceryl Monoalkyl Ether The test used is detailed below. 15 Protocol

The antiradical activity (ARL) of glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether or ethylhexylglycerin (INCI name) sold under the name Sensiva SC 50 by the company Schülke & Mayr was evaluated by the Gas Chromatography (GC) measurement of the ethylene formed from the oxidation of methionine by the hydroxyl radical.

This is generated by a ferro-catalyzed Fenton reaction maintained by the continuous generation of superoxide radicals. The O 2 radicals are produced by 365 nm photochemical reduction of riboflavin by a hydrogen donor. RB Lr to .CHLi-

: FF; H201 + 202+ 2H- ".20, 0,

. ' The neutralization of the OH ° radicals results in an inhibition of the ethylene production.

A reaction medium buffered with: 500 μl of 50 mM KH2PO4 phosphate buffer pH7.4 100 μl solution L-Methionine 200 μM 100 μl solution of 4 mM ferric chloride or buffer (control) 100 μl solution EDTA 4 μM 100 μl solution NADH 400 μM 100 μl solution riboflavin 2 μM.

In a Head Space tube, mixtures of reaction medium and of solution containing glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether are prepared with final concentrations of 2-ethyl hexyl ether of glycerol of 0.044% and 0.133% by weight relative to the weight, respectively. total of the reaction mixture.

It is irradiated with 1J of UVA. The reaction is stopped with 0.5 ml of 1 N NaOH and the sample is then protected from light. The sample is then placed in an autosampler and gas chromatography is started on a Perkin Elmer HS40 Autosampler. Results Concentration 2-ethyl hexyl ether Activity Comments of glycerol or ethylhexylglycerin (% Inhibition) (Sensiva ° SC 50 marketed by Schülke & Mayr) in the reaction medium 0.044% 18.8% IC25 = 0.075% (in the reaction medium) 0.133% 33.7% From these results, it can be deduced that for 2-ethyl hexyl ether of glycerol: IC25 = 0.075% (ie 25% of the formation of the OH °, with 0.075 % of raw material in the reaction medium), and by extrapolation, an IC50 = 0.27%.

For comparison, vitamin C has an IC25 = 0.13% and IC50 = 0.22%.

The glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether therefore has an antioxidant activity and this, from 0.044% by weight in the reaction medium. The amounts of the following formulation examples are expressed in percent by weight. The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. Example 2: Topical Compositions

Cleansing oil Ingredients 0/0 Ester 3.0 Lauroyl isopropyl lauroyl 0.5 Glycol 0.2 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether (Sensiva SC 50) 0.25 Fatty acid 0.5 Polyethoxylated glyceryl tri-isostearate (200E) 3 Sorbitan tri-oleate 0.8 Fragrances 0.5 Preservatives 0.01 Water 0.5 Vegetable oil 20.0 Vaseline oil Qs 100 20 Cleansing oil is applied daily in the morning and / or evening on the face .

O / W Antioxidant Emulsion Ingredients 0/0 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Tocopherol 0.1 Triethanolamine 2.0 Vaseline oil 4.5 Isopropyl palmitate 2.4 Corn germ oil 7.2 Solid fat 4.2 Preservatives 0.4 Silicones 2.0 Glycerol 7.0 Propylene glycol 2.0 2-ethyl hexyl glycerol ether (Sensiva SC 50) 0.2 Glycerol stearate 0.9 Stearic acid 3.2 Water Qsp 100 The composition is applied daily on the face, to confer a protective effect against the effects of stress on the skin.

Claims (16)

1. Cosmetic use, in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, of at least one glycerol monoalkyl ether as an antioxidant or anti-radical agent. 2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the monoalkyl glycerol ether is intended to prevent and / or reduce the effects of oxidative stress or free radicals on the skin and / or its integuments. 3. Cosmetic use of at least one glycerol monoalkyl ether in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for combating cutaneous signs of aging in particular induced by oxidative stress. 4. Use of a composition containing in a physiologically acceptable medium, as sole antioxidant or antiradical agent, a glycerol monoalkyl ether, for preventing and / or treating the cutaneous signs of chronological or photoinduced aging. 5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the monoalkyl ether of glycerol has the following general formula (I): RO-CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH (I) wherein R is a C6 alkyl group -C18 linear or branched, the alkyl group may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups and / or C1-C4 alkoxy groups and / or the alkyl chain may be interrupted by one, two, three or four oxygen atoms. Use according to claim 5, wherein the radical R is a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group. Use according to claim 6, wherein the radical R is a 2-ethyl hexyl group or a dodecyl group. 8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glycerol monoalkyl ether is glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether or 3 - [(2-ethylhexyl) oxy] -1,2 propanediol or or ethyl hexyl glycerin ( INCI name), of formula (II) H3C 9. Use according to any preceding claim, wherein the glycerol monoalkyl ether is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to about 10% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition preferably from 0.01% to 0.5%, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of glycerol monoalkyl ether active material relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one UV filter. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and 5 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises an adjunct antioxidant. The use as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises an additional active agent selected from hydrating agents, desquamating agents, barrier improving agents, depigmenting agents, dermodecontracting agents, anti-aging agents, -glycation, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope , NO-synthases inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists (PBRs), agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensors, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents , the agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation, the soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, sebum regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and anti-acne agents. 13. A cosmetic treatment method for preventing and / or treating cutaneous aging induced by oxidative stress comprising at least one step of applying to skin with signs of cutaneous aging induced by oxidative stress at least one composition comprising, as the only antioxidant or antiradical agent, a monoalkyl ether of glycerol. 14. Cosmetic process according to the preceding claim, wherein the cutaneous signs of aging induced by oxidative stress are selected from a loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity and / or flexibility of the skin, the formation wrinkles and fine lines, expression wrinkles, especially at the level of the forehead and the intersuracillary space, the wrinkles and / or the peri-oral wrinkles, and / or the relaxation at the level of the contour of the lips, in particular at the level of white lip, dullness of the complexion or the papery appearance of the skin. 15. A cosmetic treatment method for preventing skin irritation induced by oxidative stress comprising at least one step of applying to a skin susceptible to oxidative stress at least one composition comprising at least one glycerol monoalkyl ether. 16. Cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein a composition as defined in any one of claims 5 to 10 and 12 is applied.