FR2931065A1 - Composition, useful as cosmetic/dermatological composition, preferably for care, protection, cleaning and makeup of keratin materials e.g. lips, comprises UV filter system, dibenzoylmethane derivative and proline ester derivative - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises at least one UV filter system, at least a dibenzoylmethane derivative and at least proline ester derivative (I) or its enantiomer form, in a support. Composition comprises at least one UV filter system, at least a dibenzoylmethane derivative and at least proline ester derivative of formula (I) or its enantiomer form, in a support. R 1H or 1-5C alkyl; and R 28-30C alkyl. An independent claim is included for a method to improve the chemical stability of dibenzoylmethane derivative against UV radiation by combining the dibenzoylmethane derivative with (I). [Image] ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Antiseborrheic; Virucide; Vulnerary; Antiinflammatory; Antiulcer; Antipsoriatic; Antipruritic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A DIBENZOYLMETHANE DERIVATIVE AND A PROLINE DERIVATIVE; The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing the combination of at least one dibenzoylmethane derived type filter and at least one particular proline ester derivative of formula (I) which will be given the definition below.

It also relates to a photostabilization process with respect to the radiation of at least one dibenzoylmethane derived type filter by an effective amount of at least one proline ester derivative of formula (I), the definition of which will be defined. below.

The present invention also relates to the use of at least one particular proline ester derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one derivative of dibenzoylmethane for the purpose of improving the effectiveness of said composition vis-à-vis UV-A. It is known that the luminous radiations of wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allow the browning of the human epidermis, and that the wavelength rays more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known under the name UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns which can hinder the development of natural tanning. For these reasons as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of control of this natural tan to thereby control the color of the skin; it is therefore necessary to filter this UV-B radiation.

It is also known that UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are likely to induce an alteration thereof, particularly in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature cutaneous aging. They promote the triggering of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in some subjects and may even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons such as the preservation of the natural elasticity of the skin for example, more and more people want to control the effect of UV-A on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter the UV-A radiation.

In order to protect the skin and the keratin materials against UV radiation, antisolar compositions comprising organic screening agents active in UV-A and active in UV-B are generally used. Most of these filters are fat soluble.

In this respect, a particularly interesting family of UV-A filters currently consists of the dibenzoylmethane derivatives, and especially 50-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, which in fact have a high intrinsic absorption capacity. These dibenzoylmethane derivatives, which are now products that are well known per se as active filters in UV-A, are described in particular in French patent applications FR-A-2326405 and FR-A-2440933, as well as in European Patent Application EP-A-0114607; 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane is also currently offered for sale under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS.

Unfortunately, it turns out that the dibenzoylmethane derivatives are relatively sensitive products to ultraviolet radiation (especially UV-A), that is to say, more precisely, that they have an unfortunate tendency to degrade more or less rapidly under the action of the latter. Thus, this substantial lack of photochemical stability of the dibenzoylmethane derivatives against the ultraviolet radiation to which they are inherently intended to be subjected, does not guarantee a constant protection during prolonged exposure to the sun, so that repeated applications at intervals of time Regular and close-ups must be performed by the user to achieve effective protection of the skin against UV rays.

It is known that in EP717982 the amide compounds have a light stabilizing effect on the dibenzoylmethane derivatives and more particularly the N, N-disubstituted amidated oils such as the N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide compound of structure: ## STR2 ## NO as the product sold under the trade name R3535 by the company Merck. These amidated oils have been described in particular in application US2007141014 as solvents in cosmetic formulations of poorly soluble oils such as UV filters, flavone derivatives, chromone derivatives, aryloximes and parabens.

However, this stabilization is obtained in the presence of 20 to 30% of this last compound, which has a high solvent power for all the raw materials involved in making the formulations, which has the consequence of destabilizing the compositions. rendering the compositions containing such an association unfit for use. H 3 O or ethyl N-butyl, N-acetyl aminopropionate of formula: The photostabilisation of dibenzoylmethane derivatives with respect to UV radiation by amidated compounds therefore constitutes, to date, a problem which has not not yet resolved completely satisfactorily.

However, the Applicant has now discovered, surprisingly, that by combining the dibenzoylmethane derivatives mentioned above a proline ester derivative of formula (I), it was possible to improve substantially and remarkably, the photochemical stability (or photostability) of these same dibenzoylmethane derivatives and their effectiveness in UV-A compared to the amide compounds of the prior art without the disadvantages indicated below. In addition, the Applicant has found that these particular proline ester derivatives of formula (I) constituted good solvents for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients that are difficult to dissolve in oils, such as certain organic UV filters. This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

Thus, according to one of the objects of the present invention, there is now proposed a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support at least one UV filtering system, characterized in that it comprises: (a) at least one derivative dibenzoylmethane and (b) at least one proline ester derivative of formula (I) which will be defined below. Another object of the invention also relates to a process for improving the chemical stability with respect to UV radiation of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative comprising associating with said dibenzoylmethane derivative an effective amount of at least one derivative. proline ester of formula (I), the definitions of which will be given below

The subject of the present invention is also the use of at least one proline ester derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one derivative of dibenzoylmethane in order to improve the effectiveness of said composition vis-à-vis UV-A rays.

The present invention also relates to the use of at least one proline ester derivative of formula (I), in a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one lipophilic active agent of low solubility, in particular an organic UV filter, as a solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase and in particular as sole solvent for said active agent.

Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), which can divert the consumer to use this composition.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "liquid fatty phase" means a liquid fatty phase at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature. also called oils, compatible with each other.

By "lipophilic active agent" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological active agent that can be completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or else be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase. By "lipophilic active agent of low solubility" is meant a lipophilic active agent which, at room temperature and in its preferential concentration range, as specified below, has an insoluble phase in the oily phase of the composition which limits its bioavailability and thus alters the effectiveness of the composition.

An effective amount is understood to mean an amount sufficient to obtain a significant and significant improvement in the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) in the cosmetic composition. This minimal amount of proline ester derivative of formula (I), which may vary depending on the nature of the support selected for the composition, can be determined without any difficulty by means of a conventional photostability measurement test, such as that given in the examples below. N-R1 (I) O R2

The proline ester derivatives according to the invention are chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (I): in which: R 1 denotes hydrogen or a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical; R2 denotes a linear or branched C8-C30 alkyl radical; Any enantiomeric form is also included in the general formula (I). Among the compounds of formula (I), use will be made more particularly of the following compounds (a) to (h): ## STR2 ## RN = (a) RN = 4931-70-8 Ô TO ~ O (b) RN = 4261- 80 = 7 RN = 22794-26-9 RN = 37673-23-7 RN = 37673-37-3 ro RN = 104148-11-0 RN = 104148-07-4 The proline ester compounds of formula (I) are are known per se and can be prepared according to the processes described in the literature, and more particularly by esterifying 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (also called pyroglutamic acid) with an alcohol without solvent and without adding a catalyst and under microwaves according to the patent application FR 2833260 or by biotransformation of this same pyroglutamic acid in the presence of an alcohol and Novosym 435 according to the application EP 1642891.

The proline ester compounds of formula (I) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight. Among the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner: 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5- isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane.

Among the dibenzoylmethane derivatives mentioned above, use will in particular be made of 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane, sold under the name "Eusolex 8020" by the company Merck, and having the following formula: It is particularly preferred to use the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane or Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane, offered for sale under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by DSM s NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS; this filter has the following formula: OMe The dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) may be present in the compositions in accordance with the invention at contents which preferably vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. at 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise other organic or inorganic UV screening agents which are water-soluble or liposoluble or insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used and which are active in the UVA and / or UVB.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional filters and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired. by the addition or additions envisaged in particular the improvement of the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative. The additional organic screening agents are chosen in particular from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; R, R-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives such as those described in applications W004006878, W005058269 and W006032741 and mixtures thereof. Examples of organic UV filters are those referred to below under their INCI name:

Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid: PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name UVINUL P25 by BASF,

Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer, Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name DIPSAL by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by Haarmann and Reimer, cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl Methoxy Cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy Cinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Derivatives of 13,13-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF,

Derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, Benzophenone-5 Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BAS F, N-hexyl benzophenone-12 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold under the trade name UVINUL A + or as a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name UVINUL A + B by BASF, Derivatives of benzylidene camphor: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by CHIMEX, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by 10 CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO by CHIMEX, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by CHIMEX, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by CHIMEX,

Derivatives of phenyl benzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by Haarmann and REIMER,

Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 100 by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name TINOSORB M by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS, Triazine derivatives: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by CIBA GEIGY, Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL 35 T150 by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V, 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine, 40 2 , 4-bis (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO2004 application / 085412 (see Compounds 6 and 9) or the Symetrical Triazine Derivatives IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 September 2004) including 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazines (especially 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine) and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine which is incorporated in the applications of Beiersdorf WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985. Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by Haarmann and Reimer, Imidazoline Derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,

Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE

4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene

Benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V and mixtures thereof.

The preferred additional organic screening agents are chosen from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate homosalate ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate n-hexyl. 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (4 ') amino-dineopentyl benzalmalonate) -6- (N-Butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone-15 Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'- dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof.

The complementary inorganic filters are chosen from coated or uncoated metallic oxide pigments whose average size of the primary particles: is preferably between 5 nm and 100 nm (preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm), for example pigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se.

The pigments can be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

In a known manner, the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially constituted by a repetition of patterns. in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.

The term "silicones" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes.

The silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogensiloxanes.

Of course, the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones, may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "Sunveil" from the company IKEDA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from the company MERCK - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F" from the company 50 IKEDA, - silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE and Mirasun TiW 60 from Rhodia - alumina, such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA, - aluminum alumina and stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from TAYCA, the products" Solaveil CT-10 W " "Solaveil CT 100" and "Solaveil CT 200" from the company UNIQEMA, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company TAYCA, - alum and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from the company TAYCA, iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" from the company TAYCA zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR351" from TAYCA, silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM" DIOXIDE MT 20 500 SAS "or" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS "from TAYCA, - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product" STT-30-DS "from the TITAN KOGYO company, - silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" Kemira company, or the product SMT-100 WRS TAYCA society. Of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" from the company ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262" from the company KEMIRA, triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65 -S "of the company TITAN KOGYO, - stearic acid such as the product" TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C) "of the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W " from the company TAYCA.

Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane and having an average particle size of between 25 and 40 nm, such as that sold under the trade name " T 805 "by the company Degussa Silices, the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 21 nm, such as that sold under the trade name" 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3 "by CARDRE, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 25 nm such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES. Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company 50 WACKHER under the name "transparent titanium oxide PW", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; those marketed under the name "Nanox" by Elementis; those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies; The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name Z-COTE HP1 by Sunsmart (dimethicone-coated ZnO); those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate); those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and the polymethylhydrogensiloxane); those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); Those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer mixture); those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); Those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC. Uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ," NANOGARD 45 WCD 2006 (FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220 ".

The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", 50 "NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL", or by the company BASF under the name "OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON".

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A". ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as that the product "M 211" sold by KEMIRA.

The additional UV filters are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to the use of at least one aliphatic amide ester derivative of formula (I), in a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one lipophilic active agent of low solubility, in particular an organic UV filter of low solubility, as a solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase and in particular as sole solvent for said active agent.

According to the invention, the lipophilic active agents are of low solubility when they have, at room temperature and in their preferred concentration range as specified below, an insoluble phase in the oily phase of the composition which limits their bioavailability and alters thus the effectiveness of the composition.

The lipophilic active agents of low solubility in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from aminophenol derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives and 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3-oxide derivatives, in particular 2-amino-4-dodecylaminopyrimidine. -oxide, DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone), its derivatives and precursors chemicals such as 7-hydroxy or 7-keto-DHEA, or 3R-acetoxy-7-keto-DHEA, cholesterol and its esters, plant sterols such as than phytosterols and sitosterols and their esters, pentacyclic triterpenic acids, hydroxystilbenes, isoflavonoids, lipophilic organic UV filters of low solubility, retinol and its derivatives, carotenoids such as lycopene, and also perfumes, oils hormones, vitamins, especially vitamin E, ceramides or their mixtures.

The aminophenol derivatives used are more particularly the derivatives of formula (1) below: ## STR2 ## wherein R 'is a radical chosen from the group formed by the radicals (a), (b) and (c) following: s (a) CO-NR'R 2 (b) -O-O-R 3 (c) -SO 2 R 3 where R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 6 alkyl radical; , optionally hydroxylated, R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a radical chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, C12 to C30 alkyl radicals, optionally hydroxylated, and R3 represents a radical chosen from among the alkyl radicals, C12 to C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, including condensed polycyclic, and optionally hydroxylated.

In the formula (1), among the radicals R 2 or R 3 which are linear or branched alkyl radicals having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, mention may advantageously be made of the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, tert-butyl, hexyl, octyl and nonyl radicals. , 2-ethylhexyl, dodecyl, hexadecyl, behenyl and octadecyl, 2-butyloctyl. Preferably, these radicals have from 1 to 12 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the alkyl radical generally comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, as lower alkyl radical, of the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl and hexyl radicals. When unsaturated, a radical having one or more ethylenic unsaturations, such as more particularly the allyl radical, is preferred.

When the alkyl radical is cyclic, mention may in particular be made of cyclohexyl, cholesteryl or terbutylcyclohexyl radical.

When hydroxylated, the radical preferably comprises 1 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups. Among the monohydroxyalkyl radicals, a radical containing preferably 1 or 3 carbon atoms, in particular the hydroxymethyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2 or 3-hydroxypropyl radicals, is preferred.

Among the polyhydroxyalkyl radicals, a radical having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and from 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups, such as the 2,3-dihydroxypropyl, 2,3,4-trihydroxybutyl and 2,3,4,5 radicals, is preferred. tetrahydroxypentyl and 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexyl.

The alkoxylated radicals are alkyl radicals, such as in particular described above, preceded by an oxygen atom.

Preferably, the aminophenol derivatives used in the present application are those for which at least one and preferably all the conditions below are met: the function -OH on the phenyl radical is in the ortho position or advantageously in para position, - R 'is selected from a radical of formulas (a) or (b).

Among the linear or branched alkyl radicals R1, mention may be made of the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl and hexyl radicals. The aminophenol derivative preferably used in said composition is a para-aminophenol derivative, even more preferably it will be N-ethoxycarbonyl-4-para-aminophenol of formula (Ia): N-Cholesteryloxycarbonyl-4-para-aminophenol of Formula (1b): C6H13 These aminophenol derivatives, as well as their process of preparation, are described in patent applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077. These derivatives have a longer or shorter hydrocarbon chain, preferably alkoxycarbonyl, linked to the nitrogen atom. They have the disadvantage of being little or not at all soluble in water or in the fatty phase of the type used in the present application. Their introduction into cosmetic compositions requires, for the short hydrocarbon chain compounds, a hydroalcoholic solution solution, which is not always desirable when the composition is intended, for example, to be applied to the contour of the eye.

3o In turn, long-chain hydrocarbon compounds are insoluble in oils, because of their steric bulk, and tend to recrystallize in water. The compositions according to the present invention comprising such an aminophenol derivative can be used as a depigmenting or whitening agent in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Preferably these compositions will be used to treat regional hyperpigmentations by melanocytic hyperactivity such as idiopathic melasmas, occurring during pregnancy ("pregnancy mask" or chloasma) or estrogen-progestin contraception, hyperpigmentations localized by hyperactivity and benign melanocyte proliferation such as senile pigmentary spots known as actinic lentigo, accidental hyperpigmentations or depigmentations, possibly due to photosensitization or post-injury healing, as well as certain leukoderma, such as vitiligo.

The concentration of aminophenol derivatives of the composition according to the present invention is from 0.001 to 30%, more preferably from 0.001 to 15%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. The amount of amino acid esters will depend on the amount of aminophenol derivatives to be solubilized and may be between 0.01 and 90% by weight and preferably between 0.1 and 60% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.

The salicylic acid derivatives of low solubility are the derivatives of formula COOH in which R "1 represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula -O-CO-R" 4 in which R "4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical. comprising from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, an amine or thiol function optionally substituted by an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms , R "2 and R" 3 independently of one another are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a radical - (0) n- (CO) mR "5 wherein n and m, independently of each other, are each an integer of 0 or 1 with the proviso that R" 2 and R "3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms, and R "represents a hydrogen, a saturated aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclized, an unsaturated radical comprising from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, the radicals possibly being substituted by at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, hydroxyl in free form or esterified with an acid comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl free or esterified with a lower alcohol comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aromatic radical comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R "5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical comprising from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R "1 represents a hydroxyl radical.

Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R "5 is at the 5-position of the benzene ring and R" 2 represents a hydrogen atom.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, these are the derivatives of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-octyl-5- salicylic, n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic, n-heptyloxy-4-salicylic, 5-tertoctylsalicylic, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic, 5- butoxysalicylic, 5-octyloxysalicylic, 5-propanoyl-salicylic, n-hexadecanoyl-5-salicylic, n-oleoyl-5-salicylic acid, benzoyl-5-salicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts and mixtures thereof.

It is known to use salicylic acid derivatives in topical compositions, for example, as a keratolytic agent for treating acne or as an anti-aging agent, FR-A-2,581,542 and EP-A-2,581,542. A-378 936 describe such derivatives.

Salicylic acid derivatives are of great interest, in particular to prevent or repair the principal manifestations of skin aging such as fine lines and wrinkles, the disorganization of the "grain" of the skin, the modification of the complexion of the skin and the loss of firmness and tone of the skin. However, the use of these derivatives poses a problem insofar as, when they are introduced as such into the topical compositions, they do not solubilize and remain in the form of crystals, which makes the use of the composition containing them, ineffective for the treatment of the skin.

Generally, these derivatives are dissolved in lower alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol or solvents such as octyldodecanol, certain glycols, short chain (lower than C12) fatty alcohols. However, these lower alcohols have the drawback of drying out and irritating the skin; we therefore prefer to avoid using them in body care products and / or face. In addition, these solubilizers can be introduced in small quantities, otherwise altering the cosmetic qualities (drying of the skin) and the stability of the compositions containing them.

The concentration of salicylic acid derivatives of the composition according to the present invention is preferably from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of amino acid esters will depend on the amount of salicylic acid derivatives to be solubilized. It may be from 0.01 to 90% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention comprising at least one salicylic derivative can be used as a cosmetic or dermatological composition, and in particular for the care, protection, cleaning and / or makeup of keratin materials of human beings (skin, lips, fibers keratinic agents such as hair and eyelashes), and in particular to combat the signs of skin aging and / or to smooth the skin of the face and / or the body and / or to treat wrinkles and fine lines of the skin and / or to stimulate the epidermal renewal process and / or to depigment and whiten the skin and / or to treat acne and / or to treat skin disorders.

Skin disorders include in particular shingles, burns, eczema, demodicosis, skin ulcer, fibrosis, healing control, psoriasis, pruritus, dermatitis, ichthyosis, corns and The warts. The derivatives of the family of 2-amino-4-alkylamino pyrimidine 3-oxides are the derivatives of the general formula: ## STR2 ## in which R 4 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and Z 'represents an atom of hydrogen or an ROR5 radical in which R5 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, as well as its acylated forms or its addition salt with acids.

Preferably, R4 is selected from the group consisting of hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl.

Preferably, R5 is selected from the group consisting of ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl. More preferably, it is 2-amino, 4-dodecylamino-pyrimidine 3-oxide.

The derivatives of the family of 2-amino-4 alkylamino pyrimidine 3-oxides can in particular be used in or for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention for preventing and treating the problems related to sensitive skin and the skin. skin disorders such as cutaneous discomfort, skin tightness, itchy skin, skin swelling, redness of the skin and the sensation of cutaneous warmth. Another family of molecules that falls within the definition of low water solubility molecules is DHEA, its derivatives and its chemical or metabolic precursors DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone, hydoxy rost-5-endhydroisoandro-trans-dehydroprasterone, The term "precursors" of the invention is understood to mean biological which is converted into DHEA metabolism, as well as its chemical precursors which can be converted into DHEA by an exogenous chemical reaction. Examples of biological precursors are A5-pregnenolone, 17-hydroxy pregnenolone and 17a-hydroxy pregnenolone sulfate, without this list being limiting.

By chemical precursors of DHEA is meant in particular saponins and their derivatives such as hecogenin (3 beta, 5 alpha, 23r) -3-hydroxyspirostan-12-one) and hecogenin acetate, diosgenin (5 -spirosten-3-beta-ol), smilagenin and sarsapogenin, as well as natural extracts containing them, in particular fenugreek and extracts of Dioscoreas such as wild yam root or Wild Yam, without this list be limiting.

Derivatives of DHEA include both its metabolic derivatives and its chemical derivatives. As metabolic derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular A5-androstene-3,17-diol and especially 5-androstene 3R, 17R-diol, A4-androstene-3,17-dione, 7-hydroxy-DHEA (7a-hydroxy DHEA or 713-hydroxy-DHEA) and 7-keto-DHEA which is itself a metabolite of 7R-hydroxy DHEA, without this list being limiting. 7a-Hydroxy-DHEA is, along with 5-androstene-3, 17β-diol, a major metabolite of DHEA, obtained by the action of 7α-hydroxylase on DHEA. 7R-hydroxy DHEA is a minor metabolite of DHEA, obtained by the action of 7R-hydroxylase on DHEA.

The 7-hydroxy-DHEA preferably used in the compositions according to the present invention is 7α-hydroxy-DHEA. A process for the preparation of this compound is described in patent applications FR 2 771 105 and WO 94 08588.

As chemical derivatives of DHEA, mention may also be made of DHEA salts and in particular water-soluble salts such as DHEA sulphate; DHEA esters such as esters of hydrocarboxylic acids and of DHEA, in particular those described in US Pat. No. 5,736,537, or also HOO salicylate also known as 3-beta-17-one, or sterone, but also androsterone or formula: DHEA concerned with its precursors likely to occur during 40 45 DHEA, DHEA acetate, DHEA valerate (or n-heptanoate) and DHEA enanthate.

Mention may also be made of DHEA carbamates, DHEA 2-hydroxy-malonate esters and DHEA amino acid esters. Finally, mention may be made of 3R-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA, which may in particular be prepared as described in patents US Pat. No. 5,869,709 and US Pat. No. 6,111,118. This list is obviously not limiting.

The concentration of DHEA-based compound in the composition according to the present invention may advantageously be from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20%, and still more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These compounds will be in solubilized form between 20 ° C and 90 ° C. By low-solubility organic lipophilic UV filter is meant any organic UV filter having a solubility in water of less than 0.1% by weight and a solubility of less than 15% by weight in most organic solvents such as oil. paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and triglycerides of fatty acids, for example Miglyol 812 sold by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, performed at 70 ° C is defined as the amount of product in solution in the equilibrium solvent with an excess of suspended solid after return to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory. Among the lipophilic organic filters of low solubility used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made in particular of: triazine derivatives such as those mentioned previously dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as those mentioned previously benzophenones such as those mentioned above

The aqueous compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers and stabilizers. , emollients, silicones, anti-foam agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, actives, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.

The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined above or mixtures thereof. By oil is meant a liquid compound at room temperature. By wax is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.

As oils, mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); 50 such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Eldew SL-205 by the company Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as benzoate C12-alcohols. C15 sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company WITCO, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226 by the company ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC by Cognis), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated esters and fatty ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated oils, polyalkylenes, trialkyl trimellitates such as tridecyl trimellitate.

As waxy compounds, mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL.

Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademark Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC, cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and in particular gums such as Xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

As lipophilic thickeners, mention may be made of synthetic polymers such as poly C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name INTELIMER IPA 13-1 and INTELIMER IPA 13-6 by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives. derivatives, such as the products marketed under the names of Bentone.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged, in particular the improvement of the photostability of the derivative of dibenzoylmethane.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (HIE, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or cream gel; in the form of an aqueous gel; in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsions may also contain other types of stabilizers, for example fillers, gelling or thickening polymers.

As emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of alkylated polyol esters.

Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI; Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as PEG-100 Stearate / 45 Glyceryl Stearate sold, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol; , marketed for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778.

Among the other stabilizers of emulsion, the polymers of isophthalic acid or of sulphoisophthalic acid, and in particular the phthalate / sulphoisophthalate / glycol copolymers, for example the copolymer of diethylene glycol / phthalate / isophthalate / 1,4- cyclohexane-dimethanol (INCI name: Polyester-5) sold under the names "Eastman AQ polymer" (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.

In the case of an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965)). FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetics, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for makeup of the skin and / or lips.

Another object of the present invention is constituted by the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, including skincare products, sunscreen products and make-up products.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a makeup product. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less unctuous creams, gel-creams, pasta. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description).

The aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.

The additional active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules and and / or epidermal and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, receptor antagonists benzodiazepines (PBR), agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensors, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents, agents promoting microcirculation of the skin, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants, sebo-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents, wound healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and anti-acne agents.

The skilled person will choose the active or said active agents depending on the desired effect on the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails.

For the care and / or makeup of aged skin, it will preferably choose at least one active agent chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO-50 synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, sebaceous gland activity enhancing agents, cell energy enhancing agents, liporestructuring agents and agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation for the eye contour.

The composition may also comprise at least one ingredient such as blooming fillers or agents promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or provide an immediate visual anti-aging effect.

For the care and / or makeup of oily skin, those skilled in the art will preferably choose at least one active agent selected from desquamating agents, sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents.

The composition may further comprise at least one additional ingredient intended to complement the biological effect of these assets or provide an immediate visual effect; mention may in particular be made of matting agents, blooming fillers, fluorescent agents, agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin and abrasive or exfoliating fillers. 1. Moisturizing or humectant agents

As moisturizing or moisturizing agents, there may be mentioned glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, pidolate sodium, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata cylindra extract sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-30 HM from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids. ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CRD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene mixture glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc 40 marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizer chosen from urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as NOF Lipidure-HM. corporation, beta-glucan and in particular the 50 carboxymethyl beta-glucan sodium of Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CRD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene mixture glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. 2. desquamating agents

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 13-hydroxyacids (BHA), in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (of which n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid INCI); α-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid; urea and its derivatives; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;

or on enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

Other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention include: oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, olinoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl acid) acetic acid, trilactate of glycerol, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, 45 oligofucase such as those described in the patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, ficus opuntia indica flower extract such as Silab Exfolactive, 8-hexadecene 1,16-dicarboxylic acid, 50-glucose and vitamin F esters, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, it will be used in the compositions of the invention a desquamating agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof. 3. Agents improving the barrier function

As agents improving the barrier function, mention may in particular be made of arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane, an extract of wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y. Active Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma's omega plankton, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverin, a cedar bud extract such as Gattefossé's Gatuline Zen, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence from Coletica; unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rosebud oil and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made in particular of ceramides or derivatives, in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2 -hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI name: hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine), sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts.

Preferred agents having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier include an extract of Thermus thermophilus, a wild yam rhizome extract (dioscorea villosa), a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, arginine, serine, ceramides including type 3 and 5; and their mixtures.

Preferably, serine, arginine or a mixture thereof will be used. 4. Scrambling agents

As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned in particular vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid , ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologs, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap; a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the molasses extract marketed by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, without this list being exhaustive.

As preferred depigmenting agents, use will be made of vitamin C and its derivatives and especially the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffructicosa such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

5. Antioxidant Agents Mention may in particular be made of tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves such as those of the company Silab , green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, a brown algae extract pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane, chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelants, such as BHT BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, phloretin, TotarolTM or Podocarpus totara extract containing totarol (totara-8, 11, 13-trienol or 2-phenenanthrenol, 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9, 10-octahydro-4b, 8,8-trimethyl-1 (1-methylethyl) - a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun, hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, an extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704, a pomegranate fruit extract (Punica Granatum), such as that marketed by Draco Natural products.

As another anti-aging agent, mention may be made of DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (B carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives, and acid. jasmonic As preferred antioxidant, ferulic acid will be used in particular; serine; phloretin, pomegranate extract, biotin, chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, caprylyl glycol, phloretine, TotarolTM, a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

6. Dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents Mention may be made, for example, of manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an extract of Iris pallida, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as Wild yam and carbonyl amines described in application EP1484052. As examples of sapogenins, mention may be made of those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extracted in particular from Dioscorea opposita or any extract which naturally closes or after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, lily extract and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilageine and sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla root) or Actigen Y from Actives Organics; or ginger. DMAE (dimethyl MEA), extracts of sea fennel, Montpellier rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an extract of Acmella Oleracea such as Gatuline expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned.

Preferred dermorelaxing agents include adenosine, manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.

7. Anti-qlycation agents

By anti-glycation agent is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen. As anti-glycation agents, mention may be made in particular of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG by the company COSMETOCHEM ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810,548, FR 2,796,278 and FR 2,802,420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name AMADORINE by the company SOLABIA, carcinine hydrochloride 50 (marketed under by Exsymol under the name ALISTIN), an extract of Helianthus annuus such as Silab's Antiglyskin, wine extracts such as powdered white wine extract on a maltodextrin support sold s denomination 2F dehydrated white wine by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777 from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, a black tea extract such as Sederma Kombuchka and their mixtures.

Preferred anti-glycation agents include blueberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus) and black tea extract. 8. Agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their deqradation:

Among the active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those which act:

or on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline CO; and arginine.

Or on the inhibition of the degradation of collagen, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as more particularly the MMP 1, 2, 3, 9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol of Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids malt extract marketed by the company COLETICA under the trade name Collalift; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular the extracts of soya (marketed for example by the company ICHIMARU PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704; Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline sold by Seppic under the name SEPILIFT 45 DPHP: Baccharis genistelloide or Baccharine marketed by SILAB, a moringa extract such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; the sage extract described in application FR-A-2812544 of the labiate family (salvia officinalis from Flacksmann), Rhododendron extract, blueberry extract, a vaccineium myrtillus extract such as those described in application FR-A-2814950.

or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the family of elastins (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C.

or on the inhibition of the degradation of elastin, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with an alcohol C1-C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica.

or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne from Secma; the essence of Lucas Meyer's Mamaku, a watercress extract (Odraline de Silab).

or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the Salina zooplankton extract marketed by Seporga under the trade name GP4G; yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MÜLLER under the trademark Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trademark 40 Matrixil.

Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made especially of the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name 45 Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC; and Salina zooplankton extract marketed by the company SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G; Copper tripeptide from PROCYTE; ; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397.

It is preferable to use an active agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation chosen from agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin and agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin. agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, use will be made of an active agent stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans chosen from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, the essence of Mamaku, an extract of cress and their mixtures.

As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: synthetic peptides such as amin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as the product marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; arginine; . an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift lycopene; an extract of lychee; an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N- acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C1-C6 alcohol. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina'ine from Secma; the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer, the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC.

9. Agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes

The agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts that may be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean (for example, a soybean extract sold by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH). VEG 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C.

Preferably, an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.

The agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, comprise in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos' Amacha liquid E, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma's Capislow, 25 extracts of papaya, olive leaf and lemon extracts such as Vincient Xyline, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha liquid E of Ichimaru Pharcos, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, nut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin 30 marketed by Sederma.

Among the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate, such as that sold by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohésine; and a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate.

As agents stimulating proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.

As active agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes, mention may be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE SILAB; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trademark Structurine; a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate. 10. Agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope

It is possible to use in the compositions of the invention agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope, which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in the activity of transglutaminases. There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished). 11. NO-svnthases inhibitors

The agent having a NO synthase inhibitor action may be chosen from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species, sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect, or finally by Hansen under the name grape marc extract; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT; the extracts of a plant of the species Gingko biloba preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract and mixtures thereof. 12. Benzodiazepine Peripheral Antagonists (BPC)

For example, 1- (2-chlorophenyl) -N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide may be mentioned; the compounds described in WO03 / 030937, WO03 / 068753, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in document WO00 / 44384.

13. Agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland

Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof. 14. Agents stimulating energy metabolism of cells

The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells can for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as Sederma phosphovital, the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. such as Physiogenyl of Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3 from Seppic and mixtures thereof; beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as that marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry;

15. Tensing agents The tensing agent that can be used according to the invention is intended to mean compounds that can have a tensor effect, that is to say, that can tend the skin. In general, the term "tensioning agent" according to the invention means any compounds that are soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration. to which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water a shrinkage of more than 15% in the test described below. The maximum concentration at which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance is determined to within 10% and preferably to within 5%.

The term "medium of homogeneous appearance" means a medium that does not have aggregates visible to the naked eye.

For the determination of the said maximum concentration, the tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with stirring at the deflocculator at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., and the mixture is then stirred for one hour. It is then observed after 24 hours if the mixture thus prepared is of homogeneous appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye).

The tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test. A homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at the concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described above. 30 μl of the homogeneous mixture is deposited on a rectangular test piece (10 × 40 mm, thus having an initial width LO of 10 mm) of elastomer having a modulus of elasticity of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm. After drying for 3 hours at 22 ° C. and 40% relative humidity RH, the elastomer specimen has a retracted width, noted L 3h, due to the tension exerted by the tensioning agent deposited.

The tensor effect (ET) of said agent is then quantified as follows:

ET '= (LO-L3h / LO) x100 in 0/0 with Lo = initial width 10mm and L3h = width after 3h of drying The tensioning agent can be chosen from: vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; polysaccharides of natural origin; mixed silicates; colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art will be able to choose, in the chemical categories listed above, the materials corresponding to the tensor test as described above.

These include: (a) proteins and hydrolysates of vegetable proteins, in particular maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, pepper, pea, bean, lentil, soybean and lupine,

(b) polysaccharides of natural origin, in particular (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch obtained especially from rice, maize, potato, cassava, peas, wheat, d oats, etc ... or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, advantageously in aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) the latexes constituted by the shellac resin, the gum sandaraque, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic derivatives, and mixtures thereof,

(c) mixed silicates, especially phyllosilicates and in particular Laponites, (d) colloidal particles of inorganic filler having a number average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm, and selected for example from: silica, silica-alumina composites, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulphate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. As silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA. (e) synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio (polymethacrylate) methyl) and propylthio (polyacrylic acid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (poly methacrylic acid). Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO 21,

The tensioning agent will be present in the composition in an amount effective to obtain the desired biological effect according to the invention. By way of example, the tensioning agent may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight of active material, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight of active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "active material" is intended to exclude the medium in which the tensioning agent is optionally solubilized or dispersed in its commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles.

It is also possible to use, in particular to complement and / or potentiate the effect of tensors, use agents that increase the expression of mechanoreceptors, such as agents increasing the expression of integrins. By way of example, mention may be made of a rye seed extract, such as the product marketed by SILAB under the name Coheliss. 16. Liporestructuring agents

According to the invention, the term "liporestructive agents" means agents capable of stimulating lipogenesis and promoting adipocyte differentiation, thus making it possible to prevent or slow the melting of the fats contained in the skin support tissues, otherwise known as `melting lipostructure of the skin '. By "lipo-structure of the skin" is meant the network of lipid cells which forms the volumes on which the skin of the face rests and molds.

These agents are intended to reduce the loss of skin density and / or melting of the lipostructure of the skin, in particular at the level of the cheeks and the contour of the eye, and / or to prevent sagging and / or deepening of facial volumes, loss of skin consistency and / or maintenance, especially at the level of the cheeks and contour of the eye, and / or improving the volumes underlying the skin of the face and / or the neck, especially in the cheeks, the oval of the face and the contour of the eye, and / or improve the density, the rebound and the maintenance of the skin, in particular at the level of the cheeks, the oval of the face and the contour of the eye, and / or reshape the features of the face, especially the oval of the face. Examples of liporestructuring agents that may be mentioned include a black tea extract, such as the fermented black tea extract marketed by Sederma under the name Kombuchka, and an extract of Artemisia abrotanum, such as that marketed by Sllab under the name 4o Pulpactyl.

17. Slimming agents

As slimming agents (lipolytics), caffeine, theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine, sericin, asiatic acid, acefylline, aminophylline, chloroethyltheophylline, diprofylline, diniprophylline, etamiphylline and its derivatives, etofylline, proxyphylline; extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, mate, cola (Cola Nitida) and in particular the dry extract of guarana fruit (Paulina sorbilis) containing 8 to 10% of caffeine; extracts of climbing ivy (Hedera Helix), arnica (Arnica Montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), ginseng (Panax ginseng), St. John's Wort (Byperycum Perforatum), Common Snapper (Ruscus aculeatus L), Ulmaria (Filipendula ulmaria L), Orthosiphon (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), Birch (Betula alba), Cécropia and Argan; ginkgo biloba extracts, horsetail extracts, escin extracts, cangzhu extracts, chrysanthellum indicum extracts, diosgenin-rich dioscorate extracts or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and their derivatives, Ballote extracts, extracts of Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, Antirobia, the extract of petit grain of bigarrade; an extract of hulls of cocoa beans (theobroma cacao) such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Caobromine.

18. Agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation The active agent acting on the cutaneous microcirculation may be used to prevent tarnishing of the complexion and / or to improve the appearance of the contour of the eye, in particular to reduce dark circles. It may be chosen, for example, from a maritime pine bark extract such as Pycnogenol from Biolandes, manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn from Seppic), an extract from Ammi visnaga, such as Visnadine from Indena, extract from lupine (Eclaline de Silab), hydrolysed wheat protein / palmitic acid coupling with palmitic acid such as Carilene Laboratories Epaline 100, bitter orange flower extract (Silab remodulin), vitamin P and its derivatives such as methyl Sodium esculetol mono-ethanoate sold under the name Permethol by the company Sephytal, extracts of ruscus, horse chestnut, ivy, ginseng and sweetclover, caffeine, nicotinate and its derivatives, lysine and its derivatives such as Solabia's Asparlyne, a black tea extract such as Sederma's Kombuchka; rutin salts: an extract of algae corallina officinalis such as that marketed by CODIF; and their mixtures.

Preferred agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation include caffeine, a bigarade flower extract, a black tea extract, rutin salts, an extract of corallina officinalis algae. 19. Soothing or anti-irritant agents

By soothing agent is meant a compound to reduce the sensation of tingling, itching or tightness of the skin. As calming agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, C B5, B3, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts containing them, acid b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) and the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, the extracts of Centella 50 asiatica, the oil of Canola, bisabolol, vitamin E and C diesterphosphoric acid, such as Seppic's Sepivital EPC, chamomile extracts, allantoin, omega 3 unsaturated oils such as rosehip, cassis, ecchium, po isson, calophilum oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name "Seppicalm VG" by Seppic, an extract of Boswellia serrata , an extract of Centipeda cunnighami such as that sold under the name "Cehami PF" by the company TRI-K Industries, an extract of sunflower seeds, in particular Silab's Helioxin, an extract of Linum usitatissimum seeds such as Sensiline from Silab, tocotrienols, piperonal, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium such as that sold under the name "Canadian Willowherb Extract" by the company FYTOKEM PRODUCTS, aloe vera, phytosterols, cornflower water, water of pink, a mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and commercial made by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a mixture of barley seed wax fraction obtained by supercritical CO2, butter of shea and argan oil such as "Stimu-tex AS" from Pentapharm, alkaline earth salts including strontium, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As preferred soothing agents according to the invention, use will be made of: β-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) and the plants containing them (ex : Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and its salts; extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol; chamomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name Seppicalm VG by the company Seppic; aloe vera, rose water, mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

20. Sebo-requlating or anti-seborrhoeic agents By "sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents" is meant in particular agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.

There may be mentioned in particular: 10 - retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine, sold in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; Copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate such as Cuivridone from Solabia; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; Mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; linseed extracts such as that sold under the name Linumine by the company Lucas Meyer; Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos; mixtures of argan oil, of serenoa serrulata extract (saw palmetto) and of sesame seed extract such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by the company Pentapharm; mixtures of extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as the product sold under the name Seborilys by the green tech company; 45 - extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company Euromed; mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear by the company Rahn; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove 5 extract powder by the company Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl by Serobiological Laboratories; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; Extracts of alga Laminaria, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by the company Biotechmarine; oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif; cane sugar extracts such as the product marketed under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulphonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by the company Ichthyol; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; Sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains, such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical; Extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland; extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by the company Alban Muller; extracts of quillaja saponaria such as that sold under the name 30 Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; Phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 40 - 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; and - their mixtures.

Preferred anti-seborrhoeic active agents include: benzoyl peroxide, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; Sebacic acid, especially sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; the trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL 20 ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; And their mixtures.

Preferably, the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is chosen from: zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate and carboxylate; zinc, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; and preferably zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate) or zinc salicylate; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; - and their mixtures. The anti-seborrhoeic active agent is for example present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

45 21. Astringents

By "astringent agents" is meant according to the invention agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles. As astringent agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of extracts of mushroom pulp (polyporus officinalis) such as "Laricyl LS8865O" from Cognis, extracts of Terminalia catappa and sambucus nigra such as Phytofirm LS9120O from Cognis. , extracts of gallstones such as the Tanlex VEO from Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminum hydroxychloride, extracts of centella (ex Plantactiv centella of Cognis), diketyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as Varisoft 432 CG from Degussa, extracts chestnut extracts, extracts of Hammamelis, extracts of sweet almonds, marshmallow roots and flax seeds such as Almondermin LS 3380 from Cognis, extracts of burdock, extracts of nettle, extracts of birch, extracts of horsetail, extracts of chamomile such as those sold under the name Extrapone 9 special by the company Symrise, extracts of scutellaria, extracts of Ulmaire (for example l e Cytobiol Ulmaire de Libiol), a blend of extracts of white ginger, horsetail, nettle, rosemary, yucca such as Bell flavors & fragrances Herb extract B1348, extracts of acacia, elm, of white willow, cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, Interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, gentian, cucumber, walnut extracts, the mixture of extracts of Ratanhia, grapefruit, grindelia and oak gall as Alban Muller's Epilami.

Preferred astringent agents according to the invention will be scutellaria extracts, ulmary extracts, close-up queen extracts, gentian extracts, burdock extracts and mixtures thereof. 22. Healing agents

Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (such as Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295). of Indena), a yeast extract such as the healing of LS LO / 7225B from Serobiological Laboratories), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes TRFO from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as Vincience GP4G, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Sour-Smelling Marigold, horsetail extracts, lemon bark extracts such as Cosmetochem's Herbal Lemon, extracts of Helichryse, extracts from 40 millefeuille , and folic acid.

Preferred healing agents according to the invention will be arginine, serine, folic acid, tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof. 23. Anti-inflammatory agents

Particular antiinflammatory agents that can be used according to the invention include cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azalic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate, and the like. folic; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, there will be mentioned azelaic acid, folic acid, an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

24. Anti-acne agents

In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition may further comprise at least one anti-acne active agent. By "anti-acne active" is meant any active having effects on the specific flora of oily skin such as for example Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes).

These effects can be bactericidal. As anti-bactericidal active agents, mention may be made in particular of: the active agents and preservatives with anti-microbial activity mentioned in the application DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference, the Asian acid, the monoethanolamine salt of the 4-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-trimethylpentyl 2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), sold in particular under the name Octopirox by Clariant; citronellic acid, perillic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid), glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine), for example sold under the name Sensiva SC 50 by the Shulke & Mayr company, - caprylate / glyceryl caprate, for example sold under the name Capmul MCM by ABITEC; Calcium and sodium phosphosilicate, sold in particular under the names Bioactive Glasspowder and Actysse Premier BG by the company Schott Glass; silver-based particles, for example those sold under the name Metashine ME 2025 PS by the company Nippon Sheet Glass; 40 - hop cone extract (Humulus Lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as that sold under the name HOP CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte, - extract of Millepertius obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as the one sold under the name ST John's Wort CO2-TO extract by 45 Flavex Naturextrakte, - the mixture of extracts of roots of scutellaria baicalensis, of paeonia suffruticosa and of glycyrrhiza glabra, such as that sold under the name BMB-CF by the Naturogin company, - argan extract as Argapure LS9710 from COGNIS; 45 - Bearberry leaf extracts such as the one sold under the name "Melfade-J" by Pentapharm; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, such as Acnacidol P from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl p-tolylsulfone, such as Amicale Flowable from Angus, malachite powder, zinc oxide such as Zincare from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, acid arachidonic, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Seppic's Lipacid C8G, caprylyl glycol, 10-h acid ydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect such as cocoampho sodium acetate or diacetate disodium such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as Emal 270 D of Kao, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, maleate of branched C12-13 dialcohols such as Cosmacol EMI, monoesters of propylene glycol such as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, lauryl dimethylamine betaine such as Empigen BBILS and quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in patent FR 0 108 283 and mixtures thereof.

As preferred antimicrobial agents, one will use in the compositions of the invention an agent selected from octoglycerin or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Other additional anti-acne active agents may be added to the aforementioned anti-acne active agents. It is possible to cite the active agents having bacterial anti-adhesion effects or acting on the biofilm of the bacteria to prevent their multiplication.

As agents that prevent and / or reduce the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made in particular of: phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil , calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or certain surfactants such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate (7 0E), hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, branched C12-C13 di-alcohols tartrate described in EP 1,129,694 and their mixtures. In particular with regard to the propagation of P acnes, or as active agents acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their proliferation, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, polyvinyl alcohol such as Celvol 540 PV alcohol from Celanese Chemical, rapeseed oil such as Akorex L from Karlshamns, and fructose derivatives and mixtures thereof.

The active ingredient against acne may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Depending on the nature and / or the solubility of the aforementioned assets, a person skilled in the art will know how to choose the most suitable embodiment according to the invention. As lipophilic active agents that may be used in the kit or at least one of the compositions of the invention, mention may be made in particular of D-tocopherol, DL-tocopherol, D-tocopherol acetate, DL-atocopherol acetate and palmitate. of ascorbyl, vitamin F glycerides, vitamin D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, retinol, retinol esters, retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, carotenes such as 13 carotene, D panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate, salicylic acid and its derivatives such as 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, alkyl hydroxyalkyl esters such as citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, Asian acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, total extract of centella asiatica, glycyrrhetinic acid, bis-bisol, ceramides such as 2-oleoylamino-1,3-octadecane, phytanetriol, phospholipids of marine origin rich in polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, ethoxyquin, rosemary extract, lemon balm extract, quercetin, dried microalgae extract, bergamot essential oil, octylmethoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl triazone, 3,5-di-tertiobutyl-4-hydroxybenzylidene 3 camphor, antibiotics, antifungals, anesthetics, analgesics, antiseptics, antivirals, pesticides, herbicides, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents will be present in the kit or one of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.01%. at 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For peeling applications, the contents of cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents may range from 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition.

Peels are a well-known way to improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp, in particular to improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin and / or scalp. the skin, and in particular to improve the surface appearance of the skin, to reduce actinic lentigo, marks of acne or chickenpox, as well as to prevent, attenuate or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to smooth out irregularities in the texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

They have the effect of removing a superficial part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly superficial layer of the dermis) by chemical methods.

OTHER ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

In order to complement and / or optimize the effects conferred by the cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents mentioned above on keratin materials, it may be advantageous to incorporate other additional ingredients into the compositions of the invention.

In particular, these additional ingredients may confer an immediate visual effect which will be relayed by the biological effect of the assets mentioned above. They can also, through a mechanical action (eg abrasvies), amplify the effect of the biological assets mentioned above.

Thus, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one agent chosen from mattifying agents, fillers with a blooming effect, fluorescent agents, agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin, abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, and their mixtures.

Mattifying agents "Mattifying agents" means agents intended to make the skin visibly duller and less glossy.

The matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.

The matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a maize starch, kaolinite, talc, a pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides , microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders of polyethylene crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and in particular mixed silicate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of matting agents that may be mentioned include: rice or maize starch, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo by the company National Starch, kaolinite; - silicas; - letalc; an extract of pumpkin seeds as marketed under the name Curbilene by the company Indena; cellulose microbeads as described in patent application EP 1 562 562; - fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide , acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742; microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by EXPANCEL under the trade names EXPANCEL 551, fillers with an optical effect as described in patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular: polyamide powders ( Nylon), such as Arkema's Orgasol type 12 nylon particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index of 1.54, silica powders, for example the Miyoshi 35 size Silica beads SB150. average 5 microns and refractive index 1.45, - powders of polytetrafluoroethylene, such as PTFE ceridust 9205F Clariant average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.36, - the silicone resin powders as the Silicon resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone of average size 4.5 microns and refractive index 1.41, 40 - powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of poly (meth) acrylate, such as PMMA particles J urymer MBI of Nihon Junyoki of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.49, or the Micropearl M100 and F 80 EDO particles of the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku, - the wax powders such as paraffin wax microease particles 114S of 45 micropowders of average size 7 microns and refractive index 1.54, - polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as Flobeads particles EA 209 of Sumitomo (average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48), elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin. ETSU, and - the composite powders of talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica, such as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 by the company Catalyst & Chemicals, - their mixtures, - compounds that absorb and / or adsorb sebum as described in patent application FR 2 869 796. Mention may in particular be made of: silica powders, such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "Silica Beads SB-700" marketed by the company MYOSHI, the "SUNSPHERE H51", "SUNSPHERE H33", "SUNSPHERE H53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name "SA SUNSPHERE H-33" and "SA SUNSPHERE H-53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS; amorphous mixed silicate powders, in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that marketed under the name "NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo. polyamide powders (nylon), for example "ORGASOL 4000" marketed by Arkema, and acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, such as for example "COVABEAD LH85" marketed by the company WACKHERR; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE SKIN OIL ADSORBER" marketed by Dow Corning, or "Ganzpearl GMP-0820" marketed by Ganz Chemical; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "POLY-PORE L200" or "POLY-PORE E200" marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, the "POLYTRAP 6603" sold by the company Dow Corning; silicate particles, such as alumina silicate; mixed silicate particles, such as: aluminum silicate magnesium particles, such as saponite or aluminum magnesium silicate hydrated with a sodium sulphate sold under the trade name Sumecton by the company Kunimine ; the magnesium silicate complex, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Lucas Meyer's Matipure, and their mixtures.

As preferred matting agents, it is possible to use, according to the invention, an extract of pumpkin seeds, a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders. acrylics, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles and mixtures thereof.

Chargers with a flutter effect

These fillers can be any material capable of modifying the wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties and of masking them. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.

As a filler, the following compounds can be exemplified: porous silica microparticles, for example Myochi's Silica Beads SB 150 and SB 700 of an average size of 5 μm, and SUNSPHERESO series H of Asahi Glass. as the H33, H51 of size of respectively 3.5 and 5 μm - the hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849, silicone resin powders such as, for example, SILICON Resin TospearI 0.15 A DE GE silicone of average size of 4.5 μm. powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBIO particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μm, the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEADO LH 85 by the company Wackherr and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name ExpanceI0. Wax powders such as paraffin wax microloase O 114S particles of micropowders of average size of 7 μm. polyethylene powders in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADSO EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of 10 μm. Crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100, KSP 1010, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by the company Shin Etsu. Talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders such as for example Coverleaf AR 80 from Catalyst & Chemical. talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate of hydrocarbone magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules. synthetic hydrophilic or hydrophilic fibers or natural, mineral or organic fibers such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene , polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, 51 fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742. spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones such as Trefil E-505C or E-506 CO from Dow Corning. abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the skin microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example abrasive SPO from Semanez, or powders of nuts or shells (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem).

The fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders. crosslinked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof.

The load can be a soft focus load. By soft-focus charge, we mean a charge which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the soft-focus charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical. The soft-focus fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a mean size of 1.8 microns and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3 by the company Nippon Talc, nylon 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere for example of reference H-53 by the company Asahi Glass, and silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB -700 or SB-150 by the company Miyoshi, this list is not exhaustive.

The concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fluorescent agents 45 A fluorescent agent is a substance which, under the effect of ultraviolet light and / or visible light, re-emits in the visible the portion of light absorbed in the same color as that which it reflects naturally. The naturally reflected color is thus enhanced by the re-emitted color and appears extremely bright.

Examples that may be mentioned include polyamide and / or formaldehyde / benzoguanamine and / or melamine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide colored resins, among colored aminotriazine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide co-condensates and / or metallized polyester flakes and / or their mixtures. These fluorescent pigments may also be in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments.

Mention may also be made of the aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent colored sulphonamide co-condensate in medium-sized pink of the 3-4 micron particles sold under the trade name Fiesta Astral Pink FEX-1 and the cocondensate aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent sulphonamide colored in blue. average particle size 3-4.5 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta Comet Blue FTX-60 by the company Swada or the benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin coated with formaldehyde / urea resin and colored yellow sold under the trade name FB-205 Yellow and the benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin coated with formaldehyde / urea resin and colored red sold under the trade name FB-400 Orange Red by UK company SEUNG CHEMICAL, the orange colored polyamide resin sold under the trade name Flare 911 Orange 4 by Sterling Industrial Colors.

The fluorescent substances are preferably present in the composition, at a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition. When the organic fluorescent substances are white, they are also called optical brighteners.

The optical brightener has the effect of intensifying the brightness and brightening the hues of the cosmetic compositions comprising them to the application on the skin. Among the optical brighteners, mention may be made more particularly of stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarines and aminocoumarines, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, and derivatives thereof. pyrene and porphyrin derivatives and / or mixtures thereof.

Such compounds are, for example, available under the trade names Tinopal SOPpet Uvitex OB from CIBA GEIGY. The optical brighteners preferentially used are sodium 4,4'-bis [(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene-2,2'-disulfonate, 2,5 thiophene diisbis (5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole), 4,4-di-styryl-4,4'-biphenyl-di-sodium sulfonate and / or mixtures thereof. 50 Agents promoting naturally rosy skin coloration

There may be mentioned in particular: a self-tanning agent, that is to say an agent which, applied to the skin, in particular on the face, makes it possible to obtain a tanning effect of a more or less similar appearance to that which can result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp; an additional coloring agent, that is to say any compound having a particular affinity for the skin enabling it to confer on the latter a durable, non-covering coloration (ie not having a tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not removable with water or with the aid of a solvent, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided for example by a makeup pigment; and their mixtures.

Examples of self-tanning agents that may be mentioned include: dihydoxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, and the combination of a catalytic system formed of: salts and oxides of manganese and / or zinc, and alkaline hydrogenocarbonates and / or alkaline earth.

The self-tanning agents are generally chosen from mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5 derivatives. -Diones as described in the patent application FR 2,466,492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in the patent application EP 903 342. DHA will preferably be used.

DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.

In general, the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% of the total weight of the composition. It is also possible to use other dyes which make it possible to modify the color produced by the self-tanning agent.

These dyes can be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.

These dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806. For example, the following dyes may be mentioned: 40 - tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: Cl 45380 or Red 21 - phloxine B known under the name CTFA: Cl 45410 or Red 27 - diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA Cl 45425 or Orange 10; dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: Cl 45370 or Orange 5. the sodium salt of tetrabromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: Cl 45380 (Na knows) or Red 22; the sodium salt of phloxine B known under the name CTFA name: Cl 45410 (Na knows) or Red 28 - the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known as CTFA: Cl 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11; Erythrosine known under the name CTFA: Cl 45430 or Acid Red 51. Phloxine known under the name CTFA: Cl 45405 or Acid Red 98.

These dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinine.

These dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as monohydroxyindoles as described in patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or di-hydroxyindoles as described in EP-B -0425324 (ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole); Abrasive stains or exfoliating agents

As exfoliating agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof. Exfogreen of Solabia (bamboo extract), extracts of strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akenes), peach stone powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally In the field of vegetable powders with an abrasive effect, let us mention the cranberry powder.

As abrasive fillers or preferred exfoliation agents according to the invention, mention may be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients compositions are given in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

FORMULATION EXAMPLES 1 to 650 Ex1 Ex2 Ex3 Ex4 Ex5 Ex6 Exo C12 / C15 Alcohol Benzoate 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Mono-Stearate Blend 6.5 6.5 6 , 6.5 6.5 6.5 glyceryl / PEG stearate (100 EO) Polyacrylamide (and) C13-C14 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth -7 o 10.0 - - - - -% To o (a) o NH 1 (d) o- 10.0 - - - - O NH ~ OO - - 10.0 - - - (e) o - - - 10.0 - - - - - - - - - R3535 4-Tertiobutyl-4'-Methoxy-1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Dibenzoylmethane ( PARSOL 1789) Glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Deionized water qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp 100 100 100 100 100 100 (*) excluding the invention5 Photostabilization of 4- (ter-butvl) 4'-Methoxv dibenzovlmethane PRINCIPLE OF THE METHOD The percentage loss of dibenzoylmethane derivative induced by exposure to a solar simulator of a formula spread in films of thickness close to 20 μm is measured.

The evaluation is made by HPLC analysis of the filter in solution, after extraction of the films, by comparing irradiated and non-irradiated samples.

Material and conditions implemented

These emulsions are spread out in films of about 20 μm thickness on a frosted side of a silica disc. The exact amount is determined by weighing. 3 films are exposed to the ORIEL 1000W solar simulator equipped with a 4-inch output, with 81017 filter and dichroic mirror delivering a dose of 21.6 J / cm2 UVA (corresponding to an exposure of 1 hour 20 UVA). 3 other films serve as references. The samples are exposed in a horizontal position.

UV-meter: OSRAM CENTRA device equipped with 2 reading heads, one for UVA and the other for UVB. The simulator and UV meter assembly is calibrated annually by spectroradiometry.

Irradiance measurements made at the beginning and at the end of the exposure by placing the read heads at the position of the sample.

The irradiances are: 0.35 - 0.45 mW / cm 2 in UVB and 14 - 16 mW / cm 2 in UVA.

At the end of the exposure each support disk is introduced into a 600 ml jar with 10 ml of a suitable solvent (in general EtOH); the whole is placed for 5 minutes in an ultrasonic tank.

The solution is then transferred into vials adapted to the support compatible with the HPLC analysis apparatus used.

The analytical conditions can be adjusted according to the tested active.

The residual Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane level is measured by chromatography: HPLC chain with diode bar detector (Waters).

The residual level of Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 45 (avobenzone) is also measured after irradiation in the same support which does not contain any compound of formula (I) (Example 6).

The calculation of the residual level (%) is made from the averages obtained on the exposed and non-UV exposed samples, as described below: Compositions Avobenzone aliphatic residual amide ester compound after 1 hour exposure UVA Formula 1 C'NH 70.7 0.01 0% ~ 0 (a) Formula 2 ° 63.5 0.3C1 H (d) pro 0 0 NH ~ -O Formula 3 55.3 3.00 (e) o 30 , 1 0.15 Formula 4 oi / r (outside the invention) 0 70.0 1.0 Formula 5 R3535 (except invention) Formula 6 none 21.0 1.5 Formula 4 comprising a short-chain proline ester compound not satisfying to the formula (I) of the invention has a very low light stabilization contribution on avobenzone in contrast to those obtained with the formulas 1, 2 and 3 according to the invention containing the amide compounds (a), (d) and ( e) of formula (I) respectively. 2. Galenic stability of the compositions:

The thermal stabilities of the formulas 1, 2, 3 corresponding to the derivatives of the invention are compared with the formula 5 corresponding to ethyl N-butyl N-acetyl aminopropionate (R3535). The appearance of each formula is observed with the naked eye (macroscopic appearance) after 2 months of storage in a study at 45 ° C. The quality of each emulsion is also evaluated using an optical microscope (a Polyvar brand with a camera as well as image acquisition and processing software: Archimed software). The photos obtained confirm the macroscopic appearance: Compositions Aspect Macroscopic and macroscopic and microscopic appearance at microscopic time 0 time 2 months at 45 ° C Formula 1 Fine dispersion and the emulsion remains stable including the homogenous and homogeneous compound (a) droplets of oil Formula 2 Fine dispersion and the emulsion remains stable comprising the homogeneous and homogeneous compound (d) oil droplets Formula 3 Fine dispersion and the emulsion remains stable comprising homogeneous and homogeneous compound (e) droplets of oil Formula 5 Heterogeneous dispersion One observes one of the oil droplets N-butyl N-acetyl aminopropionate ethyl (R3535) It is clearly observed that, compared to ethyl N-butyl N-acetylaminopropionate (R3535) such described in EP717982, compounds (a), (d) and (e) of formula (I) according to the invention make it possible to obtain a good state of dispersion of the oil in the composition and finally a good galenic stability.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support at least one UV filtering system, characterized in that it comprises: (a) at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative and (b) at least one proline ester derivative corresponding to formula (I) ) or one of its enantiomeric forms: embedded image in which: R 1 denotes hydrogen or a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical; R2 denotes a linear or branched C8-C30 alkyl radical. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the following compounds (a) to (h): R2 (a) (b) 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the compound (s) of formula (I) are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the dibenzoylmethane derivative is 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane or butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane of the following formula: 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) are present at contents ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains in addition to other organic or inorganic filters active in UV-A and / or UV-B water-soluble or fat-soluble or very insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents. 20 7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the complementary organic filters are selected from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; 33,33-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; Benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; filter polymers and silicone filters; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes; merocyanine derivatives and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the organic UV screening agent or filters are chosen from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Homosalate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, OMe 10 Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone -5,2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of n-hexyl. 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (4 ') amino-dineopentyl benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone-15 Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate 1,1-dicarboxy (2.2 4,4-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the complementary inorganic filters are metal oxide pigments, coated or not. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, agents which improve the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or keratinocyte differentiation, corneal envelope processing agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, sebaceous gland activity enhancing agents, metabolism stimulating agents cells, tensors, liporestructuring agents, thinned agents agents, agents promoting microcirculation of the skin, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants, sebo-regulators or anti-seborrheic agents, astringent agents, cicatrizing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-acne agents; mattifying agents, blooming fillers, fluorescers, agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin, abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, and mixtures thereof 12. Process for improving the chemical stability with respect to the UV radiation of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative as defined in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that said dibenzoylmethane derivative is associated with a quantity of dibenzoylmethane. effective of at least one proline ester derivative of formula (I) as defined in the preceding claims. io 13. Use of at least one proline ester derivative of formula (I) as defined in the preceding claims in a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one derivative of dibenzoylmethane as defined in any one of the claims. for the purpose of improving the effectiveness of said composition against UV-A radiation. 14. Use of at least one proline ester derivative of formula (I) as defined in the preceding claims, in a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one lipophilic active agent of low solubility and in particular an organic UV filter of low solubility, as a solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase.