FR2939675A1 - Composition, useful to protect the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, comprises at least one UV filter system in a medium comprising silicated s-triazine compound and s-triazine compound substituted by aminobenzalmalonate - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition (A) comprises in a medium at least one UV filter system comprising: (a) at least one silicated s-triazine compound (I) substituted by two groups of aminobenzoates or aminobenzamide or their tautomer forms; and (b) at least one s-triazine compound (IX) substituted by at least two aminobenzalmalonate. Composition (A) comprises in a medium at least one UV filter system comprising: (a) at least one silicated s-triazine compound, substituted by two groups of aminobenzoates or aminobenzamide, of formula (D-Si(R) a-O (3-a)/2) (I) or their tautomer forms; and (b) at least one s-triazine compound, substituted by at least two aminobenzalmalonate, of formula (IX). R : optionally unsaturated 1-30C alkyl, optionally halo, 6-12C aryl, 1-10C alkoxy, OH or trimethylsilyloxy, units of formula (-A-Si(R) a(O (3-a)/2)), or organosiloxane comprising units of formula (-(R) b-Si(O (4-b)/2)); a, b : 1-3; D : s-triazine group of formula (II); X : -O- or -NR 3>-; R 3>H or 1-5C alkyl; R 1>optionally unsaturated 1-30C alkyl optionally containing a silicon atom, a 5-20C cycloalkyl (optionally substituted by 1-3 groups of 1-4C alkyl, group of formula (-(O-CH 2CHR 4>-O) mR 5>) or (-CH 2-CHOH-CH 2-O-R 6>)); R 4>H, methyl or (C=O)XR 1>(which may be ortho, meta or para to the amino group); R 5>H or 1-8C alkyl; R 6>H or 4-8C alkyl; m : 2-20; n : 0-2; either R 2>OH, 1-8C alkyl or 1-8C alkoxy; or R 2>R 2>1-2C alkylidene dioxy group; A : divalent group comprising methylene or group of formula (-Z-CH(W 1>)-CH 2-) (III), (-Z-CHCH 3-) (IV), (-Z-CH=CH-) (V) or (-Z-C(=CH 2)-) (VI); Z : 1-10C alkylene, optionally saturated and substituted by OH or O and optionally containing amino; W 1>H, OH or optionally saturated 1-8C alkyl; R1a : group of formula (-[-CHR 12>-] f-[-CHR 13>-] g-CR 9>R 10>-R 11>) (X); either R 9>, R 10>1-8C alkyl; or R 9>R 10>5-8C ring optionally substituted by 1-3 groups of 1-4C alkyl; R 11>-R 13>H or 1-4C alkyl; f, g : 0 or 1; T : divalent radical of formula (XI), benzoyl group of formula (XII), siloxane group of formula (-NH-A-Si(R) a-O (3 -a)/2) (XIII) or (-NH-A-Si(R 8) 3) (XIV); and R 8>1-20C alkyl, 1-20C alkenyl, hydroxyl or phenyl. Provided that: when f is 1 and R 12>is H then g is 0 and R 11>is different from H; and when R 9>and R 10>form a 5-8C ring, then the sum f+g is different from 2. [Image] [Image].

Description

The present invention relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one UV filtering system, characterized by the fact that it comprises at least one of the amino-substituted amino acids. it comprises: (a) at least one siliconized s-triazine substituted with two aminobenzoate or aminobenzamide groups of the formula (I) or one of its tautomeric forms; and (b) at least one s-triazine substituted with at least two aminobenzalmalonate groups of the formula (IX).

It is known that the luminous radiations of wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allow the browning of the human epidermis, and that the wavelength rays more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known under the name UV -B, cause erythema and skin burns that can affect the development of natural tanning. For these reasons as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of control of this natural tan to thereby control the color of the skin; it is therefore necessary to filter this UV-B radiation.

It is also known that UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are capable of inducing an alteration thereof, especially in the case of a skin sensitive or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature cutaneous aging. They promote the triggering of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in some subjects and may even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons such as the preservation of the natural elasticity of the skin for example, more and more people wish to control the effect of UV-A on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter the UV-A radiation.

In order to ensure protection of the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, it is generally used antisolar compositions comprising organic filters, active in the UV-A and active in the UV-B. Combinations of sunscreens to obtain full spectrum protection exist but none to date use only 2 filters to achieve an efficient and flat filtration across the UV spectrum (UV-B + UV-A II + UV -HAVE).

The only effective UV-A I filter used to date is avobenzone, also called 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoymethane, but this alone is not photostable. It therefore requires the use of another filter (UV-B or UV-A) having light stabilizing properties.

As examples of UV-B filters suitable for the photostabilization of avobenzone 50 on the one hand and the UVB filtration on the other hand, mention may be made of: 1 / diphenyl cyanoacrylates such as octocrylene sold especially under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, 2 / benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300 by MERCK40 3 / cinnamate derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, 5 bis-resorcinyl s-triazine derivatives such as Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy.

Examples of good UV-B filters include aminobenzoate derivatives on s-triazine such as ethylhexyl triazone sold especially under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF.

None of these solutions is fully satisfactory: 1 / the diphenyl cyanoacrylates must be generally used in large quantities to ensure the effectiveness of photoprotection of avobenzone, which has the effect of unbalancing the UV-B ratio. UV-A. In addition, their cosmetic properties have proved insufficient, 2 / benzylidene camphor derivatives generally have good efficacy in UV-B but their solubility in oils and their cosmetic properties are insufficient, 3 / Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is as for him fat-soluble but not photostable; in addition, its combination with avobenzone leads to a photoinstability of the even more important formula, 4 / Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, both UV-B filter and UV-A II filter, improves the photostability of avobenzone but this one is not completely satisfactory. Moreover, the UV-B contribution of this filter being lower than that of its contribution UV-A II, this leads (with avobenzone, UV-A (I + II)) to an imbalance in the UV-B ratio. UV-A (I + II). 5 / Ethylhexyl Triazone is a good UV-B filter but it poses problems of solubility in the usual solvents of solar products and more does not photostabilize the avobenzone, 30 Now, the Applicant has now discovered, surprisingly by combining, as UV-B filter, a siliconized s-triazine of formula (I) substituted with two aminobenzoate or aminobenzamide groups with a UV-A I + UV-A II filter which is a s-triazine of formula (IX) substituted by at least two aminobenzalmalonate groups, it was possible to obtain a total UV absorption spectrum (UV-B + UV-A I + UV-A II) without the need to use other filters. UV complementary. The combination of these two triazine filters is also photostable and has good solubility in cosmetic oils without the cosmetic disadvantages mentioned above. This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

Thus, in accordance with one of the objects of the present invention, there is now proposed a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support at least one UV filtering system, characterized in that it comprises: (a) at least one s -triazine silicon substituted by two aminobenzoate groups or aminobenzamides of formula (I) which will be defined further in detail and (b) at least one s-triazine substituted with at least two aminobenzalmalonate groups of formula (IX) which will be given definition below. Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following detailed description.

By cosmetically acceptable, is meant compatible with the skin and / or its 55 integuments, which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer to use this composition.

The first family of UV-B s-triazines according to the present invention has the following general formula (I) or one of its tautomeric forms: (D) ù (SiiO (3-a) / 2 (I) (R) to 10 in which - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched and optionally halogenated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, a C 6 -C 12 aryl radical, a C 1 -C 10 alkoxy radical or a hydroxyl radical; or the trimethylsilyloxy group; a = 1 to 3; in addition to the units of the formula -Au (Si) (R) a (O) (3-a) / 2, the organosiloxane may comprise units of the formula: R) b- (Si) (O) (4-b) / 2 wherein: R has the same meaning as in formula (I), b = 1, 2 or 3; - group (D) denotes a compound s-triazine of the following formula (II): embedded image where X represents -O- or -NR 3 -, with R 3 representing hydrogen or a C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical; R 3 represents an alkyl radical; C1-C30, linear or branched and optionally unsaturated and capable of to form a silicon atom, a C 5 -C 20 cycloalkyl group, optionally substituted with 1 to 3 linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, the group (CH 2 CHR 4 -O) m R 5 or the group CH 2 CH (OH); -CH 2 -O-R 6, - R 4 represents hydrogen or methyl; the group (C = O) XR, which may be in the ortho, meta or para position of the amino group; - R5 represents hydrogen or a C1-C8 alkyl group; R6 represents hydrogen or a C4 alkyl group; -C8, - m is an integer ranging from 2 to 20, - n = 0 to 2, - R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical or a C1-C6 alkoxy radical; C8, two adjacent R2s of the same aromatic ring may together form an alkylidene dioxy group in which the alkylidene group contains 1 or 2 carbon atoms, - A is a divalent radical selected from methylene or a group corresponding to one of following formulas (III), (IV), (V) or (VI): (Z) ùCH 1 ùCH 2 (III) 40 W 5 (Z) ùCH (IV) CH 3 (Z) ù CH - CH (V) 11H 2 - ( in which: Z is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 10 alkylene diradical, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical or oxygen and capable of optionally contain an amino group, - W represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or an alkyl radical in C1-C8, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

It should be noted that the derivatives of formula (I) can be used in their tautomeric forms and more particularly in the tautomeric form of the following formula (1 '): (D') ù (SI O (3-a) / 2 Wherein the group (D ') denotes an s-triazine compound of the following formula (II'): In addition to the units of the formula -A- (Si) (R) a (O) (3_ay2, The organosiloxane may have units of the formula (R) b- (Si) (O) (4b) / 2 wherein R has the same meaning as in formula (1), b = 1, 2 or 3.

In formulas (II) and (II ') as defined above, the alkyl radicals may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and chosen in particular from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl and n-butyl radicals. isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-amyl, isoamyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl and tert-octyl. The particularly preferred alkyl radical is the methyl radical.

The preferred s-triazine derivatives are those for which in the formula (II) or (II ') at least one, and even more preferably all, the following characteristics are met: R is methyl, a = 1 or 2, R, is a C2-C8 radical, NH) = N HN- NHA Z = -CH2-, W = H.

Preferably, the s-triazine compounds of formula (I) of the invention are represented by the following formulas (Ia), (Ib) or (Ic): R7 R7 R7 R7 (la) (B) SiO2 SiO2 ## EQU1 ##

in which: - (D) corresponds to formula (II) as defined above, 15 - R7, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl radicals, phenyl, 3,3,3 trifluoropropyl and trimethylsilyloxy or the hydroxyl radical R8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, the hydroxyl or phenyl radicals 20 - (B), which are identical or different, and are chosen from among the radicals R7 and the radical (D), - r is an integer between 0 and 200 inclusive, - s is an integer from 0 to 50 and if s = 0, at least one of the two symbols ( B) denotes (D), u is an integer from 1 to 10, t is an integer from 0 to 10, with the proviso that t + u is 3 or greater and their tautomeric forms.

The linear diorganosiloxanes of formula (Ia) are particularly preferred.

The linear or cyclic diorganosiloxanes of formula (Ia) or (Ib) falling within the scope of the present invention are random oligomers or polymers preferably having at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: R7 is the methyl radical, the C1-C2 alkoxy radical or the hydroxyl radical, 35-B is preferably methyl (in the case of linear compounds of formula (Ia)),

By way of examples of compounds of formula (I) that are particularly preferred, mention will be made of the compounds of formulas (1) to (14) below, as well as their tautomeric forms: , -, - (1) Y ~ Y (3) \, Sii IN .sup. ## EQU1 ## where ## STR2 ## = 8,1 -Si-O + iO] r [-OS NHNNHNNNH O (8) (9) (10). ## STR2 ## If HN (14) Among the compounds of formula (I), there will be used more particularly the following compounds: NH NH, Si Si INP Si Si HN, SiN NH Si SiNPD, Si HN, N / NH / (5) OH (6) Of the compounds of formula (I) and their tautomeric forms, some are known and have been described in patents EP 0841341 and FR 2886143. The compounds of formula (I) can be obtained according to US Pat. reaction scheme below: ENNR ~ X + 2 ENE (R2) n where R, R1, R2, A, n and a are as defined above and E is halogen, in particular chlorine or bromine.

The order of introduction of the reagents may be indifferently, 2 equivalents of the derivative of formula (VII) followed by an equivalent of the derivative of formula (VIII) (lane 1) or 1 equivalent of the derivative of formula (VIII) followed 2 equivalents of the derivative of formula (VII) (Route 2). The above reactions can be carried out optionally in the presence of a solvent (for example: THF, acetone / water for the first step, toluene, xylene or 1,2-dichloroethane for the second step) at a temperature between 0 ° C and + H2NiA (SI) ùO (sa), 2 (R) a (VIII) NH2 at 200 ° C, more particularly between 0 ° C and 20 ° C for the first step and between 50 and 120 ° C for the second step and in the presence or absence of a sensing base of the acid formed (for example: sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, aqueous sodium hydroxide, triethylamine or pyridine). They can also be carried out in microwaves in the presence or absence of a solvent (for example: toluene, xylene or 1,2-dichloroethane) or in the presence or absence of 10% of graphite, at a temperature of 50 to 150 ° C. C, at a power of 50-150 Watts for a period of 10 to 30 minutes.

When a is 1-3 and R is alkoxy, the polymerizations of the alkoxysilane monomeric derivatives can be carried out by conventional methods of silicone chemistry.

The preparation of the aminated derivatives of benzoic acid of formula (VII) is described in particular in FR 2151503. As amino benzoic acid derivatives particularly suitable for the preparation of the compounds according to the invention, mention may be made of 4-amino benzoate. butyl and pentyl 4-amino benzoate.

The aminosilicones of formula (VIII) can be obtained from Dow Corning Toray Silicone Co, such as those of a, w-diamino structure such as BY16-853 (viscosity: 30, NH2 equivalent: 650) or BY16-853B (viscosity 80: NH2 equivalent: 2200) or those with pendant groups such as BY16-828 (viscosity: 120, NH2 equivalent: 3500) or BY16-850 (viscosity: 1100, NH2 equivalent: 4000);

Aminomethyltrimethylsilane sold by Gelest and bis (trimethylsilyl) methylamine (RN 134340-00-4).

The compounds of formula (I) are generally present in the composition of the invention in proportions of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The second family of s-trazine UV-A filters (I and II) according to the present invention corresponds to the following general formula (IX): ## STR1 ## in which: Ra, which may be identical or different, denote a group of formula ( X): wherein R 9 and R 10, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, R 9 and R 10 may form a compound of formula (I); C 5 -C 8 ring, optionally substituted with 1, 2 or 3 C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, linear or branched; R 11, R 12 and R 13, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; f is 0 or 1; g is 0 or 1; provided that: - when f = 1 and R12 denotes hydrogen then g is 0 and R11 is different from hydrogen, - when R9 and R10 form a C5-C8 ring then the sum f + g is different of 2; T is a divalent radical:

of the following formula (XI): ## STR2 ## in which Ra has the same definition as in formula (IX) above; - of formula (XII) below: wherein R1, R2, X and n have the same definition as in formula (II) above; - of the following formula (X111): ## STR2 ## wherein X is as follows: ## STR2 ## -Si (R $) 3 (XIV) in which A and R8 have the same definitions as in formula (Ic) above.

In addition to the units of formula (R) a- (Si) (O) (4a) / 2, the organosiloxane may include units of the formula: (R) b- (Si) (O) (4b) / 2 in which R, a, A have the same definitions as in formula (I) above and b is 1, 2 or 3.

Among the preferred compounds of formula (IX), those for which: - f = let R12 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl and more particularly methyl, - f = 1 and R11 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl and more particularly methyl - f = g = 0 and R9, R10, R11 denote a C1-C4 alkyl and more particularly methyl, 15 - or else R11 denotes hydrogen and R9 and R10 form a C5-C8 ring optionally substituted by 1 or 2 radicals alkyl and more particularly cyclohexyl.

General Synthesis of Compounds of Formulas (IX) wherein T denotes a group of formula (XI) 12 (IX) + 3 HE (Xla) General Synthesis of Compounds of Formulas (IX) Where T is a Group of Formula (XII) EENE + H2N 2x (Xla) NH2 lx R1 3 HE

General Synthesis of Compounds of Formulas (IX) wherein T denotes a group of formula (XIII) ## STR2 ## (Xla) (XIIIa) (IX) + 3H. General Synthesis of the Compounds of Formulas (IX) Where T is a Group of Formula (XIV) ## STR2 ## (Xla) (XIVa) (IX) + 3He wherein E, Ra, R1, R2, X, n, R, a and R8 have the same definitions as in formulas Ic, II and IX above.

Among the compounds of formula (IX) in which T denotes a group of formula (XI) which are particularly preferred, those selected from compounds of the following formulas (15) to (19) will be mentioned: (15) (16) HN NNH NYN NH ( 17) (18) (19)

Among the compounds of formulas (IX) in which T denotes a group of formula (XII) which are particularly preferred, mention will be made of those compounds of the following formulas (20) to (28): ## STR1 ## NYN NH (21) (24) (25) (26) (26) (26) Among the compounds of formulas (IX) wherein T denotes a especially preferred group of formula (X111), those selected from among the following compounds of formulas (29) and (33): ## STR1 ## ## STR5 ## Among the compounds of formulas (VII) in which T denotes a group of formula (XIV) which are particularly preferred, mention may be made of those compounds of formulas (34). and (35) following: HNYNYNH Sil NYN OO NH o r0 O1 Si Si (34) (35)

Among these compounds of formula (IX), there will be used more particularly the compounds of o (15) (19) o HNYNYNH NYN NH ooooo (20) (24) o (31) (29) ro o Si / Sig o (34) Among the compounds of formula (VII), some are known and have been described in patents EP 0841341, EP 1471059, EP 1568700 and EP 1642893.

The compounds of formula (IX) are generally present in the composition of the invention in proportions of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions of the invention do not contain any other complementary organic or inorganic UV filter. In other words, they do not contain other UV filters than the compounds of formula (I) and those of formula (IX).

The compositions in accordance with the invention may comprise, in addition, other additional organic UV or inorganic UV screening agents active in water-soluble or fat-soluble UVA and / or UVB or insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional filters and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition or additions envisaged, in particular the improvement of the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative.

The additional organic screening agents that can be hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble are in particular chosen from anthranilates; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of (3, (3-diphenylacrylate; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in US Pat. No. 5,424,663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in US Pat. EP669323 and US 2,463,264, p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives, methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in US Pat. EP893119, the benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844, the screening and screening silicone polymers such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665, the alkyl-styrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649, 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof: merocyanine derivatives such as those described in WO04006878, WO05058269 and WO06032741.

As examples of organic UV filters, mention may be made of those designated below under their INCI name: Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid: PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by ISP , Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name UVINUL P25 by BAS F,

Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789 by Hoffmann Laroche, Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name DIPSAL by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by Haarmann and REIMER,

Cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl Methoxy Cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy Cinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate

Derivatives of 6,6-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF,

Derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, Benzophenone-5 Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, n-hexyl benzophenone-12 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold under the trade name UVINUL A + or as a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name UVINUL A + B by BASF,

Derivatives of benzylidene camphor: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by CHIMEX, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO name by CHIMEX, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by CHIMEX, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by CHIMEX, Derivatives of phenyl benzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by Haarmann and Reimer, derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the name commercial MIXXIM BB / 100 by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name TINOSORB M by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS,

Triazine derivatives: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name TINOSORB S by CIBA GEIGY, Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V, 20 symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or Symetrical Triazine Derivatives IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine) and 2, 4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine which is incorporated in Beiersdorf WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985.

Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN 30 MA by Haarmann and Reimer,

Imidazoline Derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,

Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE

40 Derivatives of 4,4-diarylbutadiene: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene

Benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-45-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V and mixtures thereof.

The preferred organic UV radiation screening agents are selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane homosalate ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5,2- (4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate benzoate. 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Ethylhexyl triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone-15 Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate 1,1 dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene -ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof.

The complementary organic UV filters are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The complementary inorganic filters are chosen from coated or uncoated metallic oxide pigments whose average size of the primary particles: is preferably between 5 nm and 100 nm (preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm), for example pigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se.

The pigments can be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

In a known manner, the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.

The term "silicones" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes. The silicones used for coating the pigments that are suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing the alkyl silanes and the polydialkylsiloxanes. and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydro-genosiloxanes.

Of course, the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones, may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "Sunveil" from the company IKEDA and the product "Eusolex TAVO" from the company MERCK - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F" from IKEDA, - silica and alumina such as "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" products from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE, and Mirasun TiW 60 from Rhodia, - alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA, alumina and aluminum stearate such as the product MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W", " Solaveil CT 100 "and" Solaveil CT 200 "from the company UNIQEMA, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product" MT-100 AQ "from the company 25 TAYCA, - d'al umine and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from TAYCA, - iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" from TAYCA, Zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR351" from the company TAYCA, silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM" DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS "or" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS "from the company TAYCA, 35-silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product" STT-30-DS "of the TITAN KOGYO company, - silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" Kemira company, or the product SMT-100 WRS TAYCA society. of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" from ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262" from KEMIRA, of triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65 -S "from the company TITAN KOGYO, - stearic acid such as the product" TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C) "from the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W "of the company TAYCA. Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane and having an average elemental particle size of between 25 and 40 nm, such as that sold under the trade name " T 805 "by the company Degussa Silices, the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and 50 whose average elementary particle size is 21 nm such as that sold under the trade name" 70250 Cardre UF TiO2S13 "by CARDRE, anatase TiO2 / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 25 nm such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE 55 HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the WACKHER company under the name "transparent titanium oxide PW", by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR", by TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; those marketed under the name "Nanox" by Elementis; those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies; The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name Z-COTE HP1 by Sunsmart (dimethicone-coated ZnO); those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogeniloxane; ); those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / copolymer PVP-hexadecene / methicone); those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A". ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerine such that the product "M 211" sold by KEMIRA.

The additional inorganic UV filters are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen especially from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, defoamers, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined above or mixtures thereof. By oil is meant a liquid compound at room temperature. By wax is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.

As oils, mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name of Eldew SL-205 by the company Ajinomoto), acids or fatty esters such as benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company WITCO, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226 by the company ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC by Cognis), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated esters and fatty ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated oils, polyalkylenes, trialkyl trimellitates such as tridecyl trimellitate.

As waxy compounds, mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL.

Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademark Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC, cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and in particular gums such as Xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

As lipophilic thickeners, mention may be made of synthetic polymers such as poly C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name INTELIMER IPA 13-1 and 55 INTELIMER IPA 13-6 by Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the name of Bentone.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged, in particular the improvement of the photostability of the derivative of dibenzoylmethane.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or cream gel ; in the form of an aqueous gel; in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsions may also contain other types of stabilizers, for example fillers, gelling or thickening polymers.

As emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of alkylated polyol esters.

Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI; Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol; , marketed for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778.

Among the other stabilizers of emulsion, the polymers of isophthalic acid or of sulphoisophthalic acid, and in particular the phthalate / sulphoisophthalate / glycol copolymers, for example the copolymer of diethylene glycol / phthalate / isophthalate / 1,4- cyclohexane-dimethanol (INCI name: Polyester-5) sold under the names "Eastman AQ polymer" (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.

In the case of an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965)). FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetics, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for makeup of the skin and / or lips.

Another object of the present invention is constituted by the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, including skincare products, sunscreen products and make-up products.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a makeup product.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less unctuous creams, gel-creams, pasta. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description). The aerosol-conditioned compositions according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.

The additional active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules and and / or epidermal and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, receptor antagonists benzodiazepines (PBR), agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensors, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents, agents promoting microcirculation of the skin, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants, sebo-regulators o u anti-seborrhoeic, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and anti-acne agents.

The skilled person will choose the active agent (s) depending on the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails.

For the care and / or makeup of aged skin, it will preferably choose at least one active ingredient chosen from hydrating agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the corneal envelope, NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, sebaceous gland activity enhancing agents, cell energy stimulating agents, lipostructuring agents, and lipid-promoting agents. cutaneous microcirculation for the eye contour.

The composition may also comprise at least one ingredient such as blooming fillers or agents promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or provide an immediate visual anti-aging effect. For the care and / or makeup of oily skin, those skilled in the art will preferably choose at least one active agent chosen from desquamating agents, sebumregulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents.

The composition may furthermore comprise at least one additional ingredient intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or to bring an immediate visual effect; mention may in particular be made of matting agents, blooming fillers, fluorescent agents, agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin and abrasive or exfoliating fillers. Moisturizing or humectant agents

Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs and sodium pidolate. , xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of imperata cylindra marketed under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids. ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizer chosen from urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF corporation. beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in the application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. 2. desquamating agents

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 13-hydroxyacids (BHA), in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (of which noctanoyl 5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid (INCI name); ahydroxyacids (AHAs), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid; urea and its derivatives; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; 29 on enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

As other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl acid ) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, 1'-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon salicylate derivatives such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucase such as those described in the patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, ficus opuntia indica flower extract such as Silab Exfolactive, 8-hexadecene 1,16-dicarboxylic acid, glucose and vitamin F esters, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, it will be used in the compositions of the invention an edsquamant agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof. 3. Agents improving the barrier function

As agents improving the barrier function, mention may in particular be made of arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane, an extract of wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y. Active Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma's omega plankton, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverin, a cedar bud extract such as Gattefossé's Gatuline Zen, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence from Coletica; unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rosebud oil and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made in particular of ceramides or derivatives, in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2 -hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI name: hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine), sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts.

Preferred agents having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier include an extract of Thermus thermophilus, a wild yam rhizome extract (dioscorea villosa), a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, arginine, serine, ceramides including type 3 and 5; and their mixtures.

Preferably, serine, arginine or a mixture thereof will be used. 4. Depigmenting agents

As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned in particular vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid , ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologues, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), of mulberry of skullcap; a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as Melite extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, without this list being exhaustive.

As preferred depigmenting agents, use will be made of vitamin C and its derivatives and especially the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D calcium panthetine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a Paeonia suffructicosa root extract such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos company under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

5. Antioxidants

There may be mentioned in particular tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin 40, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves as those of society Silab, green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, a brown alga extract pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane, chlorogenic acid, biotin, 45 chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, phloretin, TotarolTM or Podocarpus totara extract containing totarol (totara-8, 50 11 , 13-trienol or 2-phenenanthrenol, 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9, 10-octahydro-4b, 8,8-trimethyl-1 (1-methylethyl) - a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun, hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid 5 B; lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704, a pomegranate fruit extract (Punica Granatum), such as that marketed by the company Draco Natural products. age, we can mention the DHEA and its d boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (B carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives, jasmonic acid

As a preferred antioxidant, ferulic acid will be used; serine; phloretin, pomegranate extract, biotin, chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, caprylyl glycol, phloretine, TotarolTM, a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

6. Dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents Mention may be made, for example, of manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an Iris pallida extract, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as Wild yam and carbonyl amines described in application EP1484052. As examples of sapogenins, mention may be made of those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extracted in particular from Dioscorea opposita or any extract which naturally closes or after treatment one or more sapogenins (rhizome of wild yam). agave leaf which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, lilyaceous extract and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing the smilageine and sarsapogenin, or the sarsaparilla root) or the Actigen Y from the company Actives Organics ; or ginger. DMAE (dimethyl MEA), extracts of sea fennel, Montpellier rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an Acmella Oleracea extract such as Gatuline expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned. Preferred dermorelaxing agents are adenosine, manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.

7. Anti-Glycation Agents By anti-glycation agent is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, particularly dermal proteins, such as collagen. As anti-glycation agents, mention may in particular be made of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as a bilberry extract (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG by the company COSMETOCHEM , ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 50 2 802 425, FR 2 810,548, FR 2,796,278 and FR 2,802,420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine by the company Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name ALISTIN), an extract of Helianthus annuus such as Antiglyskin from Silab, wine extracts such as white wine powder extract on a maltodextrin support sold under the name denomination 2F dehydrated white wine by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777 from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, a black tea extract such as Kombuchka Sederma and their mixtures.

Preferred anti-glycation agents include blueberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus) and black tea extract. 8. Agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation:

Among the active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those which act: either on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium CO marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; and arginine.

or on the inhibition of the degradation of collagen, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as more particularly MMP 1, 2, 3, 9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, medicago sativa extracts such as Vitanol from Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) marketed under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (marketed for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704; dipalmitol HYDROXYPROLINE sold by Seppic under the name SEPILIFT DPHPO: Baccharis genistelloide or Saccharin marketed by SILAB, an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; the sage extract described in application FR-A-2812544 of the labiate family (salvia officinalis from Flacksmann), the Rhododendron extract, the blueberry extract, a vaccineium myrtillus extract such as those described in the application FR-A-2814950.

or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the family of elastins (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C. or on the inhibition of the degradation of elastin, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with an alcohol in C1-C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica. or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne from Secma; the essence of Lucas Meyer's Mamaku, a watercress extract (Odraline de Silab). or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as Salina zooplankton extract marketed by Seporga under the trade name GP4G; yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MÜLLER under the trademark Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil.

Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made in particular of the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC; and Salina zooplankton extract marketed by the company SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G; Copper tripeptide from PROCYTE; ; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397.

It is preferable to use an active agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation chosen from agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin and agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin. agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, use will be made of an active agent stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans chosen from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, the essence of Mamaku, an extract of cress and their mixtures.

As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: synthetic peptides such as amin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium CO marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as the product marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; arginine; . an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift lycopene; an extract of lychee; an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine; N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C1-C6 alcohol. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina'ine from Secma; the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer, the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC.

9. Agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes The agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts that can be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean ( for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8 or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); a hydrolysed soy protein extract such as RIDULISSEO from SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C.

Preferably, an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.

Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amach liquid EO from Ichimaru Pharcos, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma's Capislow, papaya extract, olive leaf and lemon extracts such as Vincient Xyline, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha liquid E Ichimaru Pharcos, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, walnut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin marketed by Sederma.

Among the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate, such as that sold by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohésine; and a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate.

As agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned also estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.

As active agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes, mention may be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE SILAB; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trademark Structurine; a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate.

10. Ages promoting the maturation of the horny envelope

It is possible to use in the compositions of the invention agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope, which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in the activity of transglutaminases. There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished). 11. NO-synthase inhibitors

The agent having a NO synthase inhibitor action may be chosen from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species, sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect, or finally by Hansen under the name grape marc extract; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT; the extracts of a plant of the species Gingko biloba preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract and mixtures thereof.

12. Benzodiazepine peripheral receptor antagonists (PBR) For example, there may be mentioned 1- (2-chlorophenyl) -N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide; the compounds described in WO03 / 030937, WO03 / 068753, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in document WO00 / 44384.

13. Agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland

Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof.

14. Agents stimulating energy metabolism of cells

The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells can for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as Sederma phosphovital, the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. such as Physiogenyl of Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3 from Seppic and mixtures thereof; beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as that marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry;

15. Tensing agents

By tensing agent that can be used according to the invention is meant compounds that can have a tensor effect, that is to say, that can tend the skin. In general, the term "tensioning agent" according to the invention means any compounds that are soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration. to which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water a shrinkage of more than 15% in the test described below. The maximum concentration at which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance is determined to within 10% and preferably to within 5%.

The term "medium of homogeneous appearance" means a medium that does not have aggregates visible to the naked eye.

For the determination of the said maximum concentration, the tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with stirring at the deflocculator at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., and the mixture is then stirred for one hour. It is then observed after 24 hours if the mixture thus prepared is of homogeneous appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye).

The tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test.

A homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at the concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described above. 30 μl of the homogeneous mixture is deposited on a rectangular test piece (10 × 40 mm, thus having an initial width LO of 10 mm) of elastomer having a modulus of elasticity of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm. After drying for 3 hours at 22 ° C. and 40% relative humidity RH, the elastomer specimen has a retracted width, noted L 3h, due to the tension exerted by the tensioning agent deposited.

The tensor effect (ET) of said agent is then quantified in the following way: ET '= (LO L3h / LO) x100 in% with Lo = initial width 10mm and L3h = width after 3h of drying The tensioning agent can be selected from: vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; polysaccharides of natural origin; mixed silicates; colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art will be able to choose, in the chemical categories listed above, the materials corresponding to the tensor test as described above.

These include: (a) proteins and hydrolysates of vegetable proteins, in particular maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, pepper, pea, bean, lentil, soybean and of lupine,

(b) polysaccharides of natural origin, in particular (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch obtained especially from rice, maize, potato, cassava, pea, wheat, oats, etc ... or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, advantageously in aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) the latexes constituted by the shellac resin, the sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic derivatives, and mixtures thereof; (c) mixed silicates, especially phyllosilicates and in particular Laponites,

(d) the colloidal particles of inorganic filler having a number average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm, and chosen for example from: silica, silica-alumina composites, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. As silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by Grace under the names Ludox 40 AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA.

(e) synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as a propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane (methyl polyacrylate), 45 propylthio ( polymethyl methacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid). Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO 21, 50. The tensing agent will be present in the composition in an amount effective to obtain the desired biological effect according to the invention. By way of example, the tensioning agent may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight of active material, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of material. active, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "active material" is intended to exclude the medium in which the tensioning agent is optionally solubilized or dispersed in its commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles.

It is also possible to use, especially to complement and / or potentiate the effect of tensors, use agents increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors, such as agents increasing the expression of integrins. By way of example, mention may be made of a rye seed extract, such as the product marketed by SILAB under the name Coheliss.

16. Liporestructuring agents By 'liporestructive agents' is meant according to the invention agents capable of stimulating lipogenesis and promoting adipocyte differentiation, thus making it possible to prevent or slow down the melting of fats contained in the skin support tissues. , otherwise called `melting lipo-structure of the skin '.

By lipo-structure of the skin is meant the network of lipid cells which forms the volumes on which the skin of the face rests and molds.

These agents are intended to reduce the loss of skin density and / or the melting of the lipostructure of the skin, in particular at the level of the cheeks and the contour of the eye, and / or to prevent sagging and / or deepening of facial volumes, loss of skin consistency and / or maintenance, especially in the cheeks and around the eye, and / or improving the volumes underlying the facial skin and / or neck, especially the cheeks, the oval of the face and the contour of the eye, and / or improve the density, the rebound and the maintenance of the skin, especially in the cheeks, the oval of the face and contour of the eye, and / or reshape the features of the face, especially the oval of the face.

Examples of liporestructuring agents that may be mentioned include a black tea extract, such as the fermented black tea extract marketed by Sederma under the name Kombuchka, and an extract of Artemisia abrotanum, such as that marketed by Sllab under the name Pulpactyl name.

17. Thinning agents As slimming agents (lipolytics), caffeine, theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine, sericin, asiatic acid, acefylline, aminophylline, chloroethylthéophylline, diprofylline, diniprophylline may be mentioned in particular; , etamiphylline and its derivatives, etofylline, proxyphylline; extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, mate, cola (Cola Nitida) and in particular the dry extract of guarana fruit (Paulina sorbilis) containing 8 to 10% of caffeine; extracts of climbing ivy (Hedera Helix), arnica (Arnica Montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), ginseng (Panax ginseng), St. John's Wort (Byperycum Perforatum), Common Rump (Ruscus aculeatus L), Ulmaria (Filipendula ulmaria L), Orthosiphon (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), Birch (Betula alba), Cécropia and Argan; ginkgo biloba extracts, horsetail extracts, escin extracts, cangzhu extracts, chrysanthellum indicum extracts, diosgenin-rich dioscorea extracts or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and their derivatives, Ballote extracts, extracts of Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, Antirobia, the extract of petit grain of bigarrade; an extract of hulls of cocoa beans (theobroma cacao) such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Caobromine.

18. Agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation The active agent acting on cutaneous microcirculation can be used to prevent dulling of the complexion and / or to improve the appearance of the contour of the eye, in particular to reduce dark circles. It may be chosen, for example, from a maritime pine bark extract such as Pycnogenol from Biolandes, manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn from Seppic), an extract from Ammi visnaga, such as Visnadine from Indena, extract from lupine (Eclaline de Silab), hydrolysed wheat protein / palmitic acid coupling with palmitic acid such as Carilene Laboratories Epaline 100, bitter orange flower extract (Silab remodulin), vitamin P and its derivatives such as methyl Sodium esculetol mono-ethanoate sold under the name Permethol by the company Sephytal, extracts of ruscus, chestnut turkey, ivy, ginseng and sweetclover, caffeine, nicotinate and its derivatives, lysine and its derivatives such as Solabia Asparlyne, a black tea extract such as Sederma Kombuchka; rutin salts: an extract of algae corallina officinalis such as that marketed by CODIF; and their mixtures.

Preferred agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation include caffeine, a bigarade flower extract, a black tea extract, rutin salts, an extract of corallina officinalis algae. 19. Soothing or anti-irritant agents

By soothing agent is meant a compound to reduce the sensation of tingling, itching or tightness of the skin.

As soothing agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, C B5, B3, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and the extracts of plants containing them, glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) as well as the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol, diesterphosphoric vitamin E and C such as Seppic's Sepivital EPC, extracts of chamomile, allantoin, unsaturated oils in omega 3 such as rosehip, blackcurrant, ecchium, fish oil, h calophilum oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name "Seppicalm VG" by the company Seppic, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami such as that sold under the name "Cehami PF" by the company TRI-K Industries, an extract of sunflower seeds, in particular Silab's helioxin, an extract of Linum usitatissimum seeds such as Silab's Sensiline, tocotrienols , piperonal, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium such as that sold under the name "Canadian Willowherb Extract" by FYTOKEM PRODUCTS, aloe vera, phytosterols, cornflower water, rose water, an extract mint, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by C himex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a mixture of barley seed wax fraction obtained by supercritical CO2, shea butter and argan oil such as "Stimu-tex AS" from Pentapharm, alkaline earth salts including strontium, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As preferred soothing agents according to the invention, use will be made of: β-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) and the plants containing them (ex : Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and its salts; extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol; chamomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name Seppicalm VG by the company Seppic; aloe vera, rose water, mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

20. Sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents

By "sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents" is meant in particular agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.

These include: - retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine, sold in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate such as Cuivridone from Solabia; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; linseed extracts such as the one sold under the name Linumine by the company Lucas Meyer; Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos; mixtures of argan oil, of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and of sesame seed extract, such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by the company Pentapharm; mixtures of extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as the product sold under the name Seborilys by the green tech company; extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company Euromed; mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear by the company Rahn; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl by Serobiological Laboratories; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; extracts of alga Laminaria, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by the company Biotechmarine; oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif; cane sugar extracts such as the product sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulphonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by the company Ichthyol; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains, such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical; extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland; extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by the company Alban Muller; extracts of quillaja saponaria, such as the product sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; Phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; and - their mixtures.

As preferred anti-seborrhoeic active agents, mention may be made of: benzoyl peroxide, vitamin B 6 (or pyridoxine), zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; - and their mixtures.

Preferably, the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is chosen from: zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, carboxylate, zinc, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; and preferably zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate) or zinc salicylate; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; - and their mixtures.

The anti-seborrhoeic active agent is for example present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 21. Astringent agents

By "astringent agents" is meant according to the invention agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.

As astringent agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of extracts of mushroom pulp (polyporus officinalis) such as "Laricyl LS88650" from Cognis, extracts of Terminalia catappa and sambucus nigra, such as Phytofirm LS91200 from Cognis, gall-nut extracts such as Tanlex VE from Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminum hydroxychloride, extracts of centella (ex Plantactiv centella de Cognis), di-ethyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as Varisoft 432 CG from Degussa, extracts of brown turkey extracts, extracts of Hammamelis, extracts of sweet almonds, marshmallow roots and flax seeds such as Almondermin LS 3380 from Cognis, burdock extracts, nettle extracts, birch extracts, horsetail extracts, chamomile extracts such as those sold under the name Extrapone 9 special by Symrise, extracts of scutellaria, extracts from Ulmaire (for example Cyto Biol Ulmaire de Libiol), a blend of extracts of white ginger, horsetail, nettle, rosemary, yucca such as Bell flavors & fragrances Herb extract B1348, extracts of acacia, elm, white willow, cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, gentian extracts, cucumber, walnut, the mixture of extracts of ratanhia, grapefruit, grindelia and oak gall as Alban Muller's Epilami.

Preferred astringent agents according to the invention will be scutellaria extracts, ulmary extracts, close-up queen extracts, gentian extracts, burdock extracts and mixtures thereof.

22. Healing agents Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (such as Phytelene). Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast extract such as the healing wound LS LO / 7225B from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes TRF from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as Vincience GP4G, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Souci Ami Liposolible, horsetail extracts, lemon bark extracts such as Herbasol0 lemon by Cosmetochem, extracts of helichryse, extracts of millefeuilles, and folic acid.

Preferred healing agents according to the invention will be arginine, serine, folic acid, tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof.

23. Anti-inflammatory agents

As particular antiinflammatory agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azealic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate and folic acid. ; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline0; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, there will be mentioned azelaic acid, folic acid, an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline0; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

24. Anti-acne agents In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition may further comprise at least one anti-acne active agent. By "anti-acne active" is meant any active having effects on the specific flora of oily skin such as for example Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes).

These effects can be bactericidal. As anti-bactericidal active agents, mention may in particular be made of: the active agents and preservatives with antimicrobial activity mentioned in the application DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference, the Asian acid, the monoethanolamine salt of the hydroxy-4-methyl-6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), sold especially under the name Octopirox by Clariant; citronellic acid, pericylic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid), and 2-ethyl hexyl glycerol ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine), for example sold under the name Sensiva SC 50 by the company Shulke & Mayr, caprylate / glyceryl caprate, for example sold under the name Capmul MCMO by ABITEC; sodium calcium phosphosilicate, sold in particular under the names Bioactive glasspowderO and Actysse Premier BGO by the company Schott Glass; silver-based particles, for example those sold under the name Metashine ME 2025 PSO by the company Nippon Sheet Glass; the hop cone extract (Humulus Lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as that sold under the name HOP CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte; the extract of Millepertius obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction such as that sold under the name ST John's Wort CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte, - the mixture of extracts of scutellaria baicalensis roots, of paeonia suffruticosa and of glycyrrhiza glabra, such as that sold under the name BMB-CF by the company Naturogin argan extract such as Argapure LS97100 from COGNIS; - bearberry leaf extracts such as the one sold under the name "Melfade-J" by Pentapharm; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, such as Acnacidol P from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl p-tolylsulfone such as Amicale Flowable® from Angus, malachite powder, zinc oxide such as Zincare® from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, the acid arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G Seppic, caprylyl glycol, acid 10- 2-hydroxy-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect such as cocoampho sodium acetate or diacetate disodium such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as Emal 270 D from Kao, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, C12-13 dialkool maleate branched as Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters such as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, lauryl dimethylamine betaine such as Empigen BB / LS as well as quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in patent FR 0 108 283 and mixtures thereof.

As preferred antimicrobial agents, one will use in the compositions of the invention an agent selected from octoglycerin or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Other additional anti-acne active agents may be added to the aforementioned anti-acne active agents.

It is possible to cite the active agents having bacterial anti-adhesion effects or acting on the biofilm of the bacteria to prevent their multiplication.

As agents that prevent and / or reduce the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made in particular of: phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil , calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or certain surfactants such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate (7 0E), hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, branched C12-C13 di-alcohols tartrate described in EP 1,129,694 and their mixtures.

In particular with regard to the propagation of P acnes, or as active agents acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their proliferation, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, polyvinyl alcohol such as Celvol 540 PV alcohol from Celanese Chemical, rapeseed oil such as Akorex L from Karlshamns, and fructose derivatives and mixtures thereof. Active against the acne may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Depending on the nature and / or the solubility of the aforementioned assets, a person skilled in the art will know how to choose the most suitable embodiment according to the invention. As lipophilic active agents that may be used in the kit or at least one of the compositions of the invention, mention may be made in particular of D-tocopherol, DL-tocopherol, D-tocopherol acetate, DL-atocopherol acetate and palmitate. of ascorbyl, vitamin F glycerides, vitamin D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, retinol, retinol esters, retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, carotenes such as 13 carotene, D panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate, salicylic acid and its derivatives such as 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, alkyl hydroxyalkyl esters such as citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, Asian acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, total extract of centella asiatica, glycyrrhetinic acid, bis-bisol, ceramides such as 2-oleoylamino-1,3-octadecane, phytanetriol, phospholipids of marine origin rich in polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, ethoxyquin, rosemary extract, lemon balm extract, quercetin, dried microalgae extract, bergamot essential oil, octylmethoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl triazone, 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy benzylidene 3 camphor, antibiotics, antifungals, anesthetics, analgesics, antiseptics, antivirals, pesticides, herbicides, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents will be present in the kit or one of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.01%. at 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For peeling applications, the contents of cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents may range from 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.

Peels are a well-known way to improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp, in particular to improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin and / or scalp. the skin, and in particular to improve the surface appearance of the skin, to reduce actinic lentigo, marks of acne or chickenpox, as well as to prevent, attenuate or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to smooth out irregularities in the texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

They have the effect of removing a superficial part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly superficial layer of the dermis) by chemical methods.

OTHER ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

To complement and / or optimize the effects conferred by the cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents mentioned above on keratin materials, it may be advantageous to incorporate other additional ingredients in the compositions of the invention.

In particular, these additional ingredients may confer an immediate visual effect that will be relayed by the biological effect of the assets mentioned above. They can also, through a mechanical action (eg abrasvies), amplify the effect of the biological assets mentioned above.

Thus, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one agent chosen from matting agents, blooming fillers, fluorescent agents, agents which promote the naturally rosy coloration of the skin, abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, and their mixtures.

Matifying Agents "Matifying agent" means agents intended to make the skin visibly duller and less glossy.

The matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.

The matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a maize starch, kaolinite, talc, an extract of pumpkin seeds, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides , microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders of polyethylene, powders of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and in particular mixed silicate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of matting agents that may be mentioned include: rice or maize starch, in particular an aluminum starch octenyl succinate sold under the name Dry Flo by the company National Starch, kaolinite; - silicas; Talc; an extract of pumpkin seeds as marketed under the name Curbilene by the company Indena; cellulose microbeads as described in patent application EP 1 562 562; 40 - fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers, especially wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene fibers terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan , polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742; microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by EXPANCEL under the names Expancel 551, 50-fillers with an optical effect as described in patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular: polyamide powders ( Nylon), such as Arkema's Orgasol type 12 nylon particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index of 1.54, silica powders, for example Miyoshi Silica beads SB150 of size 55 average 5 microns and refractive index 1.45, 10 - polytetrafluoroethylene powders, such as the PTFE ceridust 9205F Clariant of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.36, - the silicone resin powders as the Silicon resin Tospearl 145A of GE Silicone with a mean size of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41, the powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, such as the particles PMMA Ju Nihon Junyoki MBI rymer of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.49, or the Micropearl M100 and F 80 EDO particles of the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku, the wax powders such as the particles Paraffin wax microease 114S of micropowders having a mean size of 7 microns and a refractive index of 1.54, polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as the Flobeads EA 209 particles, Sumitomo (average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48), elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu , and - tal composite powders c / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica, such as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 by the company Catalyst & chemicals, - their mixtures, - absorbing and / or adsorbent sebum compounds as described in the patent application FR 2 869 796. Mention may in particular be made of: silica powders, such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "Silica Beads SB-700" marketed by the company MYOSHI, the "SUNSPHERE H51", "SUNSPHERE H33", "SUNSPHERE H53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name "SA SUNSPHEREO H-33" and "SA SUNSPHEREO H-53" marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS; amorphous mixed silicate powders, in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that marketed under the name "NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo. polyamide powders (nylon), for example "ORGASOL 4000" marketed by Arkema, and acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, such as for example "COVABEAD LH85" marketed by the company WACKHERR; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGEO SKIN OIL ADSORBER" marketed by Dow Corning, or "Ganzpearl GMP-0820" marketed by Ganz Chemical; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "POLY-PORE L200" or "POLY-PORE E200" marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, the "POLYTRAP 6603" sold by the company Dow Corning; silicate particles, such as alumina silicate; mixed silicate particles, such as: aluminum silicate magnesium particles, such as saponite or aluminum magnesium silicate hydrated with a sodium sulphate sold under the trade name Sumecton by the company Kunimine ; the magnesium silicate complex, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, squash oil and phospholipids or Matipure® from Lucas Meyer, and their mixtures.

As preferred matting agents, it is possible to use, according to the invention, an extract of pumpkin seeds, a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders. acrylics, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles and mixtures thereof.

Chargers with a flutter effect

These fillers can be any material capable of modifying the wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties and of masking them. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.

As a filler, the following compounds can be exemplified: - porous silica microparticles, for example Myochi's Silica Beads SB 150 and SB 700 of average size of 5 μm and Asahi Glass's SUNSPHERES series H as the H33, H51 of size respectively of 3.5 and 5 pm. hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849; silicone resin powders, for example SILICON Resin Tospearl0 145 A DE GE Silicone average size of 4.5pm. powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBI particles from Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μm, the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD LH 85 by the company Wackherr and the expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel0. - Wax powders such as paraffin wax microloase0 114S micropowders particles of average size of 7pm. polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADS EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of 10 μm. crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100, KSP 1010, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by the company Shin Etsu. talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders such as for example Coverleaf AR 80 from Catalyst & Chemical. talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics. synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers, mineral or organic, such as fibers of silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), cellulose modified poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, of polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742. - silicones crosslinked spherical elastomers such as Trefil E-505C or E-506 C from Dow Corning. abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example abrasive SPO from Semanez or powders of nuts or shells (apricot, walnut for example from Cosmetochem).

The fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders. crosslinked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof.

The load can be a soft focus load. By soft-focus charge, we mean a charge which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the soft-focus charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical. The soft-focus fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a mean size of 1.8 microns and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3 by the company Nippon Talc, nylon 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere for example of reference H-53 by the company Asahi Glass, and silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB -700 or SB-150 by the company Miyoshi, this list is not exhaustive. The concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fluorescent agents

Fluorescent agent is a substance which, under the effect of ultraviolet rays and / or visible light, re-emits in the visible the portion of light that it has absorbed in the same color as that which it naturally reflects . The naturally reflected color is thus enhanced by the re-emitted color and appears extremely bright.

Examples that may be mentioned include polyamide and / or formaldehyde / benzoguanamine and / or melamine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide colored resins, among colored aminotriazine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide co-condensates and / or metallized polyester flakes and / or their mixtures. These fluorescent pigments can also be in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments. Another embodiment of the invention is the aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent sulfonamide co-condensate colored to a medium size pink of 3-4 micron particles sold under the trade name Fiesta. Astral Pink FEX-1 and the co-condensate aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent sulfonamide colored in blue of average size of the particles 3-4.5 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta Comet Blue FTX-60 by the company Swada or the benzoguanamine resin formaldehyde / urea-coated formaldehyde and yellow-colored sold under the trade name FB-205 Yellow and the benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin coated with formaldehyde / urea resin and colored red sold under the trade name FB-400 Orange Red by the company UK SEUNG CHEMICAL, the colored polyamide resin in orange sold under the name Flare 911 Orange 4 commercial ination by Sterling Industrial Colors.

The fluorescent substances are preferably present in the composition, at a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition. When the organic fluorescent substances are white, they are also called optical brighteners.

The optical brightener has the effect of intensifying the brightness and brightening the hues of the cosmetic compositions comprising them to the application on the skin. Among the optical brighteners, mention may be made more particularly of stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarines and aminocoumarines, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, and derivatives thereof. pyrene and porphyrin derivatives and / or mixtures thereof.

Such compounds are for example available under the trade names Tinopal SOP and Uvitex OB from CIBA GEIGY.

The optical brighteners preferentially used are sodium 4,4'-bis [(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene-2,2'-disulfonate, 2,5 thiophene di-γ1 bis (5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole), 4,4-di-styryl-4,4'-biphenyl-di-sodium sulfonate and / or mixtures thereof.

Ages favoring the naturally rosy coloration of the skin

There may be mentioned in particular: a self-tanning agent, that is to say an agent which, applied to the skin, in particular on the face, makes it possible to obtain a tanning effect of a more or less similar appearance to that which can result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp; an additional coloring agent, that is to say any compound having a particular affinity for the skin enabling it to confer on the latter a durable, non-covering coloration (ie not having a tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not removable with water or with the aid of a solvent, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided for example by a makeup pigment; and their mixtures.

Examples of self-tanning agents that may be mentioned include: dihydoxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, and the combination of a catalytic system formed of: salts and oxides of manganese and / or zinc, and alkaline hydrogenocarbonates and / or alkaline earth.

The self-tanning agents are generally chosen from mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5 derivatives. -Diones as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342. DHA will preferably be used.

DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.

In general, the self-tanning agent is present in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

It is also possible to use other dyes which make it possible to modify the color produced by the self-tanning agent.

These dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.

These dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806. For example, the following dyes may be mentioned: tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: Cl 45380 or Red 21 - phloxine B known under the name CTFA: Cl 45410 or Red 27 - diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA Cl 45425 or Orange 10; dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: Cl 45370 or Orange 5. the sodium salt of tetrabromofluoroscéine known under the name CTFA: Cl 45380 (Na sait) or Red 22; the sodium salt of phloxine B known under the CTFA name: Cl 45410 (Na knows) or Red 28 - the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known as CTFA: Cl 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11; 40 - Erythrosine known as CTFA: Cl 45430 or Acid Red 51. - Phloxine known as CTFA: Cl 45405 or Acid Red 98.

These dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinin.

These dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as the monohydroxyindoles as described in the patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the di-hydroxyindoles as described in the EP-patent. B-0425324 (ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole);

Abrasive or exfoliating agents As exfoliating agents that can be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof.

Exfogreen of Solabia (bamboo extract), extracts of strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akenes), peach stone powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally In the field of vegetable powders with an abrasive effect, let us mention the cranberry powder.

Preferred abrasive fillers or exfoliation agents according to the invention are peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts. .

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients compositions are given in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Concrete but non-limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

EXAMPLES OF SYNTHESIS:

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of ethyl 2,4-bis (4'-divamino benzoate) -6- {(1, 3, 3, 3-tetramethyl) -1- (trimethylsilyl) oxyldisiloxane] propyl-3-ylamino} -s-triazine (c) First step: Preparation of 2,4-dichloro-6- {[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- (trimethylsilyl) oxyldisiloxane] propyl] -3-ylamino} -s-triazine:

To a solution of cyanuric chloride (25 g, 0.135 mole) in 250 ml of acetone is added dropwise at 0 ° C-1-amino [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [ (trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] -3-propane (41.7 g, 0.149 mol) and a solution of sodium bicarbonate (11.4 g, 0.135 mol) in 120 ml of water so that the pH is between 3 and 6.5. At the end of the introduction, the pH is 6.5. The stirring is then maintained for 1 hour 30 minutes at 10 ° C. and then left at laboratory temperature. The precipitate formed is filtered, washed with water, drained and dried. 55.2 g (yield: 95%) of the expected derivative are obtained in the form of a white powder (mp: 59 ° C.).

Second Step: Preparation of the Derivative of Example 1: 45 The mixture of the above product (2.1 g, 0.005 mole) and ethyl para-amino benzoate (1.65 g, 0.01 mole) in suspension in 20 ml of toluene is refluxed for 1 hour 30 minutes. Cooled and added to the resin obtained hot heptane. After trituration, filtration and drying, 2.3 g (yield: 67%) of the derivative of Example 1 is obtained in the form of a white powder: m.p .: 106-108 ° C., UV (Ethanol): 2 max = 311 nm, E1% = 1147.

EXAMPLE 2 Preparation of 2,4-bis (4'-divlamino benzoate n-butyl) -6- {F1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-yl (trimethylsilyl) oxyldisiloxanyllpropyl-3-ylamino} -s- triazine: - If IN O, SiO, SiHNH (NH) N / NH (2) First step: Preparation of 2,4-dichloro-6- (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl) -1 (f (trimethylsilyl) oxyldisiloxanyllpropyl-3-ylamino) -s-triazine: To a solution of cyanuric chloride (25 g, 0.135 mole) in 250 ml of acetone is added dropwise at 0 ° C the 1 [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] -3-propane (41.7 g, 0.149 mol) and a solution of sodium bicarbonate (11.4 g, 0.135 mol) ) in 120 ml of water so that the pH is between 3 and 6.5. At the end of the introduction, the pH is 6.5. The stirring is then maintained for 1 hour 30 minutes at 10 ° C. and then left at laboratory temperature. The precipitate formed is filtered, washed with water, drained and dried. 55.2 g (yield: 95%) of the expected derivative are obtained in the form of a white powder (mp: 59 ° C.).

Second Step: Preparation of the Derivative of Example 2: Under nitrogen sparging, the foregoing product (16.74 g, 0.0391 mol), n-butyl para-amino benzoate (15 g, 0.0776 mol) ) and potassium carbonate (5.36 g, 0.0388 mol) are suspended in 170 ml of toluene and heated under reflux for 1 hour 20 minutes. The reaction mixture is cooled and 150 ml of dichloromethane are added thereto. The minerals are filtered. The filtrate is washed with bicarbonate water and then twice with water. After drying of the organic phase and evaporation of the solvents, a white powder is obtained. After recrystallization from EtOAc / Heptane 1: 15, 20.1 g (yield: 69%) of the derivative of Example 2 in the form of a white powder are obtained: Mp: 111-113 ° C., UV (Ethanol ): 2max = 312 nm, E1% = 1055.

EXAMPLE 3 Preparation of (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -6- (F1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1H-trimethylsilyl) oxyldisiloxanoylpropyl-3-ylamino-2,4-bis (4-diethylamino) -benzamide } -s-triazine: (4) H NH First step: preparation of 4-nitro-N- (tert-octyl) benzamide: In a reactor, tert-octyl amine (51.7 g, 0.4 g. mole) and triethylamine (61.2 ml, 0.44 mole) in 260 ml of dichloroethane. The mixture is heated to 70 ° C. and 4-nitrobenzoyl chloride (77.9 g, 0.42 mol) is then added in 50 minutes in small portions. Refluxed for 4 hours. The reaction mixture is poured into ice water; it is extracted with dichloromethane, dried and the solvent evaporated. The beige precipitate obtained is recrystallized from a mixture of isopropyl ether and ethanol (ratio 10: 1). After drying under vacuum, 84.6 g (yield 76%) of 4-nitro-N- (tertoctyl) benzamide is obtained in the form of an off-white powder and used as it is in the next step.

Second step: preparation of 4-amino-N- (tert-octyl) benzamide:

In a 500 ml hydrogenator, 4-nitro-N- (tert-octyl) benzamide (30 g, 0.108 mol) dissolved in 200 ml of ethyl acetate is hydrogenated in the presence of 4.8 g of 10% palladium. % on charcoal at 50% water as catalyst (hydrogen pressure: 8-10 bar) at a temperature of 70-75 ° C for 1 hour and 15 minutes. After filtration, concentration of the solvent and drying under vacuum, 20.4 g (yield: 76%) of 4-amino-N- (tert-octyl) benzamide are obtained in the form of a light yellow powder and used as such in the aqueous solution. 'next step.

Third step: preparation of the derivative of Example 3

In a CEM Discover microwaves, the mixture of the product of the first step of Example 1 (1 g, 2.3 × 10 -3 mol) is heated for 20 minutes at a temperature of 115 ° C. and at a power of 150 watts. from the product of the previous step (1.16 g, 4.6x10-3 mol) and sodium bicarbonate (0.39 g, 4.6x10-3 mol) in 10 ml of dry toluene. Dichloromethane is added to the reaction mixture and washed with saturated sodium chloride solution and then twice with water. After drying of the organic phase and evaporation of the solvents, a light yellow oil is obtained. After purification on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / EtOAc 70: 30), the clean fractions of the derivative of Example 3 (0.9 g, Yield: 45%) are recovered in the form of white flakes: UV (Ethanol) % max = 302 nm, E1% = 775.

EXAMPLE 4 Preparation of Methyltrimethylsilyl) -6- {1, 1, 3, 3, 3-tetramethyl-1-F (trimethylsilyl) oxy} disiloxanylpropyl-3-ylamino} -s-triazine 2,4-bis (4'-divamino benzoate) (5) First step: preparation of methyltrimethylsilyl 4-aminobenzoate: Chloromethyltrimethylsilyl (38.5 g, 0.314 mol) is added dropwise at 80 ° C. to the heterogeneous mixture of the potassium salt of the reaction medium. para-amino benzoic acid (50 g, 0.285 moles) in 350 ml of DMF. Refluxed for 3 hours. After cooling, the salts are filtered and the DMF is evaporated. The residue is taken up in dichloromethane, dried and the solvent evaporated. The oil obtained is purified by distillation. The fractions which distil at 189 ° C. are recovered under a vacuum of 0.6 mbar. The oil crystallises. 50.4 g (yield: 79%) of methyltrimethylsilyl 4-aminobenzoate are obtained in the form of a white powder and used as such in the next step. Second Step: Preparation of the Derivative of Example 4: Under a nitrogen sparge, the mixture of the product of the first step of Example 1 (2.1 g, 4.9 × 10 -3 mol) and the derivative of the previous step (2.19 g, 9.8x10-3 mol) in 40 ml of toluene is refluxed for 5 hours. Cool and evaporate the solvent. The residue is taken up in dichloromethane, dried and the solvent evaporated. 3 g (yield: 76%) of the derivative of Example 4 are obtained in the form of a pale yellow gum: UV (Ethanol): 2max = 311 nm, E1% = 907.

EXAMPLE 5 Preparation of 2,4-bis (2'-hydroxy-4'-divlamino benzoate diethyl-2-hexyl) -6- {[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-f (trimethylsilyl) oxy] Dispersoxane-3-ylamino-s-triazine Under nitrogen sparge, a mixture of 2-ethyl-2-hexyl 2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzoate (1.4 g, 5.57 × 10 -3 mol) and the product of the first step of Example 1 (1.19 g, 2.78x10-3 mol) in 10 ml of toluene is refluxed for 5 hours. Cool and evaporate the solvent. The residue is chromatographed on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / EtOAc 9/1). 1.58 g (yield: 64%) of the clean fractions of the derivative of Example 5 are obtained in the form of a white paste: UV (Ethanol): = 300 nm, E1% = 480 C (6)! Max = 325nm, E1% = 709.

EXAMPLE 6 Preparation of 2,4,6-tris (4-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine: (15) First step: preparation of dineopentyl malonate:

In a reactor surmounted by a Dean Stark, the malonic acid (40 g, 0.38 mol) and the neopentyl alcohol (77.5 g, 0.88 mol) are refluxed for 3 hours in 110 ml of toluene. in the presence of 0.2 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid. The water formed is removed by azeotropy. The organic phase is washed 3 times with water and is dried over sodium sulfate. After filtration and evaporation of the solvent in vacuo, 88 g (yield 94%) of dineopentyl malonate are obtained in the form of a colorless oil and used as such in the next step. Second step: preparation of dineopentyl 4-nitrobenzalmalonate: In a flask equipped with a Dean Stark surmounted by a condenser and under a nitrogen sparge, p-nitro benzaldehyde (49.5 g, 0.33 mol) is placed and dineopentyl malonate (80 g, 0.33 mol) in 200 ml of toluene. The pre-prepared catalyst was added, acetic acid (2 ml) and piperidine (3.3 ml) suspended in 2 ml of toluene. The mixture is stirred under reflux for 5 hours and the water formed is removed via Dean Stark. Two additions of the same amounts of catalyst were necessary. The cooled reaction mixture is poured into water and extracted with dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with water, then dried and concentrated under reduced pressure to a volume of 150 ml. 50 ml of isopropanol are added and allowed to crystallize. The solid obtained is filtered and recrystallized from isopropanol. 68 g (yield 55%) of dineopentyl 4-nitrobenzalmalonate are thus obtained in the form of light beige crystals and used as such in the next step. Third step: preparation of dineopentyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate: With stirring and bubbling with nitrogen, the derivative of the previous step (67 g, 0.178 mol) is dispersed in 80 ml of acetic acid. 120 ml of water are added. The mixture is heated to 50 ° C. The iron (107 g) is added in portions without exceeding a temperature of 55 ° C. (introduction time 1 hour). Then, acetic acid (120 ml) was added dropwise without exceeding a temperature of 55 ° C (introduction time 2 hours). 4 more hours are heated to 55 ° C. Cool, add water and extract with dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with water, with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution, with water and then dried over sodium sulfate. After concentration under reduced pressure, a yellow solid is obtained. It is recrystallized from a mixture of heptane and 1,2-dichloroethane. 43 g (yield 69%) of dineopentyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate are thus obtained in the form of yellow fibrous crystals and used as such in the next step. Fourth Step: Preparation of the Derivative of Example 6: The preceding derivative (42 g, 0.12 mole) is dispersed in 600 ml of toluene under nitrogen sparge. The mixture is heated to 70 ° C. and a solution of cyanuric chloride (7.5 g, 0.04 mol) in 100 ml of toluene is added dropwise. The mixture is then heated at 90 ° C. for 2 hours under nitrogen degassing. After cooling, the organic phase is washed with water and then with an aqueous solution of sodium bicarbonate. Concentrated under reduced pressure. The residue obtained is solubilized in a 1,2-dichloroethane 98: isopropanol 2 mixture. After rapid filtration on a bed of silica and evaporation of the solvents, 43 g (yield 97%) of the derivative of Example 6 under form of an amorphous pale yellow powder: mp: 95-150 ° C, UV (Ethanol) 2 max = 356 nm; El% = 956. EXAMPLE 7 Preparation of 2,4,6-tris (1,3-dimethylbutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine: (19) Step 1: Preparation of 1,3-malonate In a reactor surmounted by a Dean Stark, the malonic acid (72.8 g, 0.7 mole) and the 2-methyl-4-pentanol alcohol (286 g) were refluxed for 2 hours. 2.8 moles) in 200 ml of toluene in the presence of 1.8 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid. The water formed is removed by azeotropy. The organic phase is washed 3 times with water and is dried over sodium sulfate. Filtered and the solvent evaporated. The product obtained distilled at 147 ° C. under 20 hPa. 160 g (yield 79%) of 1,3-dimethylbutyl malonate are obtained in the form of a colorless oil which is used as it is in the next step. Second step: preparation of 1,3-dimethylbutyl 4-nitrobenzalmalonate In a flask equipped with a Dean Stark surmounted by a condenser and under a nitrogen sparge, p-nitro benzaldehyde (49.9 g, 0, 33 mol) and 1,3-dimethylbutyl malonate (90 g, 0.33 mol) in 150 ml of toluene. The pre-prepared catalyst was added, acetic acid (1.9 ml) and piperidine (3.3 ml) suspended in 4 ml of toluene. The mixture is stirred under reflux for 7 hours 30 minutes and removed via Dean Stark water formed. Two additions of the same amounts of catalyst were necessary. The cooled reaction mixture is poured into water and extracted with dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with water, then dried and concentrated under reduced pressure. The red brown oil obtained is chromatographed on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / EtOAc 97: 3). 56.8 g (yield 43%) of the clean fractions of 1,3-dimethylbutyl 4-nitrobenzalmalonate are recovered in the form of a yellow oil and used as such in the next step.

Third step: preparation of 1,3-dimethylbutyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate: With stirring and bubbling with nitrogen, the derivative of the previous step (56.8 g, 0.14 mole) is dispersed in 80 ml of acetic acid . 115 ml of water are added. The mixture is heated to 50 ° C. Iron (78.2 g, 1.4 moles) is added in portions without exceeding a temperature of 55 ° C (1 hour introduction time). Then, acetic acid (115 ml) was added dropwise without exceeding a temperature of 55 ° C (introduction time 2 hours). One more hour is heated to 55 ° C. Cool, add water and extract 2 times with dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with water, with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution, with water and then dried over sodium sulfate. After concentration under reduced pressure, a red brown oil is obtained which is purified by passage through a silica column (eluent: Heptane / EtOAc 85:15). It is recrystallized from a mixture of heptane and 1,2-dichloroethane. 22.5 g (yield 43%) of the clean fractions of 1,3-dimethylbutyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate are recovered in the form of an orange oil and used as such in the next step. Fourth Step: Preparation of the Derivative of Example 7: Cyanuric chloride (2.6 g, 0.0141 mol) was dispersed at 0 ° C in 20 ml of xylene. A solution in 120 ml of xylene of the above derivative (15.9 g, 0.0423 mol) is added dropwise under a nitrogen sparge. The mixture was refluxed with xylene for 18 hours. After cooling, the organic phase is washed with water. The organic phase is concentrated under vacuum. The residue is taken up in dichloro-methane. The organic phase is washed with an aqueous solution of sodium bicarbonate and then with water. Concentrated under reduced pressure. The residue consisting of di- and tri-substituted derivatives is subjected to separation on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / EtOAc 90:10). 7.83 g (yield 46%) of the eigen fractions of the derivative of Example 7 are recovered in the form of an amorphous pale yellow powder: mp 80-140 ° C., UV (Ethanol) 2 max = 353 nm; E1% = 922. 40

EXAMPLE 8 Preparation of di-neopentyl 2,4-bis (4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (4 "-benzylamino benzoate) -s-triazine: HNYNYNH NYN NH (20) First step: preparation of 2,4-dichloro-6- (4'-butyl benzoate) -striazine: In a reactor, the cyanuric chloride (20.7 g, 0.112 mol) is solubilized at 0-5 ° C. in 250 ml of water. acetone A solution of butyl para-para-aminobenzoate (21.7 g, 0.112 mol) dissolved in 70 ml of acetone was added dropwise at 0 ° to 5 ° C. and then sodium bicarbonate was added thereto. (9.4 g, 0.112 mol) dissolved in 70 ml of water The heterogeneous mixture is left for 2 hours at a temperature of 0-5 ° C. The precipitate formed is filtered off and then washed with water and with water. acetone After drying under vacuum, 37.2 g (yield 97%) of 2,4-dichloro-6- (4'-butyl benzoate) -strapriazine are obtained in the form of a white powder: UV (Ethanol / DMSO): 2max = 298 nm, E1% = 940, and used as is in the next step. step: preparation of the derivative of Example 8: Under nitrogen sparge, a mixture of the preceding product (7.41 g, 0.0213 mol) and dineopentyl para-amino benzalmalonate (14.66 g, 0.0422 mole) in suspension in 60 ml of toluene is refluxed for 7 hours 30 minutes. Cool and add dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with a saturated solution of sodium bicarbonate and then with water. The organic phase is dried and concentrated under reduced pressure. The resulting orange oil (17.8 g) is separated on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / EtOAc 85:15). Clean fractions in the form of pale yellow flakes of the derivative of Example 8 (8.72 g, yield 43%) are recovered: UV (Ethanol): = 370 nm, E 1% = 623; 2.max = 347 nm, E 1% = 847; x = 300nm, E1% = 432. 30

EXAMPLE 9 Preparation of di-neopentyl 2,4-bis- (4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (4-tert-butyl aminobenzamide) -s-triazine: (24) First step: preparation of N- (tert-butyl) -4-nitro-benzamide: In a reactor, 4-nitrobenzoyl chloride (18.9 g, 0.1 mol) dissolved in 60 ml of methylene chloride to a solution of tert-butylamine (8.3 g, 0.112 mol) and triethylamine (15.6 ml, 0.112 mol) dissolved in 170 ml of dichloromethane The reaction mixture is brought to room temperature. The organic phase is washed twice with water and dried, the solvent obtained is recrystallized from isopropanol and the mixture is washed under reduced pressure for 17 hours. 77%) of N- (tert-butyl) -4-nitro benzamide as a pale yellow powder (mp 161-2 ° C) and used as is in the next step.

Second step: preparation of 4-amino-N- (tert-butyl) benzamide: In a 1 liter hydrogenator, the preceding product (17.1 g, 0.077 mol) dissolved in 300 ml of isopropanol is hydrogenated in the presence of 3 5% palladium on carbon as catalyst (hydrogen pressure: 7 bar) at a temperature of 60 ° C. for 30 minutes. After filtration, concentration of the solvent and drying under vacuum, 13.2 g (yield: 89%) of 4-amino-N- (tert-butyl) benzamide in the form of a light gray powder (mp 123-4 °) are obtained. C) and used as is in the next step. Third step: preparation of N- (tert-butyl) -4- (4,6-dichloro-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) aminol benzamide: In a reactor, the chloride is solubilized at 10 ° C. cyanuryl (11.71 g, 0.06 mol) in 150 ml of dioxane. A solution of the product of the preceding step (11.53 g, 0.06 mol) dissolved in 60 ml of dioxane and a solution of potassium carbonate (6%) is added dropwise at 10 ° C. in the course of 1 hour. 3 g, 0.03 mol) dissolved in 30 ml of water. The heterogeneous mixture is left for 2 hours at a temperature of 10 ° C. About 300 ml of water are added and the precipitate formed is filtered and then washed with water. After drying under vacuum, 18 g (yield 88%) of N- (tert-butyl) -4 - [(4,6-dichloro-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] benzamide in the form of a white powder (mp 256-7 ° C.) and used as it is in the next step.

Fourth Step: Preparation of the Derivative of Example 9: In a CEM Discover microwaves, the intimately mixed mixture of the preceding product (1.5 g, 4.4 × 10 -3 moles), dineopentyl para-amino benzalmalonate ( 3 g, 8.8x10-3 mol) and sodium bicarbonate (0.37 g, 8.8 × 10 -3 mol) for 4 minutes at a temperature of 60 ° C. and at a power of 300 watts then for 20 minutes at a temperature of 150 ° C. The amorphous solid formed is extracted with dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed 3 times with water and is dried and concentrated under reduced pressure. The brown oil obtained is subjected to separation on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / EtOAc 60:40). Clean fractions are recovered in the form of a pale yellow powder of the derivative of Example 9 (0.7 g, Yield 17%): UV (Ethanol): 2 = 375 nm, E1% = 420, a.max = 345 nm E1% = 813; = 299nm, E1% = 420.

EXAMPLE 10 Preparation of tetrakis (2,2-dimethylpropyl) 2,2'-F {6-F (3- {1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-I (trimethylsilyl) oxyldisiloxanyl} propyl) aminol 1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diiscyclo (imino-4,1-phenylenemethylylidene) imimalonate: First step: preparation of 2,4-dichloro-6- (f) 3,3,3,3- tetramethyl-1- (trimethylsilyl) oxyldisiloxanylpropyl-3-ylamino} -s-triazine: To a solution of cyanuric chloride (25 g, 0.135 mole) in 250 ml of acetone is added dropwise at 0 ° C. 1-amino [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] -3-propane (41.7 g, 0.149 mol) and sodium bicarbonate solution (11, 4 g, 0.135 moles) in 120 ml of water so that the pH is between 3 and 6.5. At the end of the introduction, the pH is 6.5. The stirring is then maintained for 1 hour 30 minutes at 10 ° C. and then left at laboratory temperature. The precipitate formed is filtered, washed with water, drained and dried. 55.2 g (yield: 95%) of the expected derivative are obtained in the form of a white powder (mp 59 ° C.) and used as such in the next step. Second step: preparation of dineopentyl malonate: In a reactor with a Dean Stark, the malonic acid (40 g, 0.38 mol) and the neopentyl alcohol (77.5 g) were refluxed for 3 hours. 0.88 moles) in 110 ml of toluene in the presence of 0.2 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid. The water formed is removed by azeotropy. The organic phase is washed 3 times with water and is dried over sodium sulfate. After filtration and evaporation of the solvent in vacuo, 88 40 g (yield: 94%) of dineopentyl malonate are obtained in the form of a colorless oil and used as such in the next step.

Third step: preparation of dineopentyl 4-nitrobenzalmalonate: In a flask equipped with a Dean Stark surmounted by a condenser and under a nitrogen sparge, p-nitrobenzaldehyde (49.5 g, 0.33 mol) is placed and dineopentyl malonate (80 g, 0.33 mol) in 200 ml of toluene. The catalyst prepared in advance is added: acetic acid (2 ml) and piperidine (3.3 ml) suspended in 2 ml of toluene. The mixture is stirred under reflux for 5 hours and the water formed is removed via Dean Stark. Two additions of the same amounts of catalyst were necessary. The cooled reaction mixture is poured into water and extracted with dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with water, then dried and concentrated under reduced pressure to a volume of 150 ml. 50 ml of isopropanol are added and allowed to crystallize. The solid obtained is filtered and recrystallized from isopropanol. 68 g (yield 55%) of dineopentyl 4-nitrobenzalmalonate are thus obtained in the form of light beige crystals and used as such in the next step.

Fourth step: Preparation of dineopentyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate: With stirring and bubbling with nitrogen, the derivative of the previous step (67 g, 0.178 mol) is dispersed in 80 ml of acetic acid. 120 ml of water are added. The mixture is heated to 50 ° C. Iron (107 g) is added in portions without exceeding a temperature of 55 ° C (introduction time 1 hour). Then, acetic acid (120 ml) was added dropwise without exceeding a temperature of 55 ° C. Cool, add water and extract with dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with water, with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution, with water and then dried over sodium sulfate.

After concentration under reduced pressure, a yellow solid is obtained. It is recrystallized from a mixture of heptane and 1,2-dichloroethane. 43 g (yield 69%) of dineopentyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate are thus obtained in the form of yellow fibrous crystals and used as such in the next step. Fifth step: Preparation of the derivative of Example 10: Under nitrogen sparge, a mixture of the derivative of the first step (2 g, 0.005 mol) and the derivative of the preceding step (3.6 g, 0.01 g) mole) in suspension in 15 ml of toluene is refluxed for 3 hours. Cool and add dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with a saturated solution of sodium bicarbonate and then with water. The organic phase is dried and concentrated under reduced pressure. The orange oil obtained is subjected to separation on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / EtOAc 80:20). Clean fractions are recovered in the form of a pale yellow powder of the derivative of Example 10 (2.8 g, yield 53%): UV (Ethanol): 2max = 355 nm, El% = 680.

EXAMPLE 11 Preparation of tetrakis (1-methylethyl) 2,2'-F {6 - [(3- (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl) -1- (trimethylsilyl) oxyldisiloxanyl} propyl} -1,3-aminol , 5-triazine-2,4-divl) bis (iminobenzene-4,1-divylmethyl) imideadleadioate: (31) First step: preparation of isopropyl 4-acetamido benzalmalonate: In a reactor surmounted by a Dean Stark, is carried at reflux under nitrogen sparge p-acetamido benzaldehyde (8.67 g, 0.053 mol) and isopropyl malonate (10 g, 0.053 mol) in 100 ml of toluene. The catalyst prepared in advance is added: acetic acid (0.304 ml) and piperidine (0.526 ml) suspended in 4 ml of toluene. The mixture is stirred under reflux for 12 hours and the water formed is removed via Dean Stark. The cooled reaction mixture is poured into water and extracted with dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with water, then dried and concentrated under reduced pressure. The orange solid obtained is recrystallized from an isopropanol / heptane mixture in the ratio 2: 15 by volume. 8.8 g (yield 49%) of isopropyl 4-acetamido benzalmalonate are thus recovered in the form of a yellow powder and used as such in the next step. Second step: preparation of isopropyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate: With stirring and bubbling with nitrogen, the derivative of the preceding step (8.5 g, 0.0255 mol) is solubilized in 80 ml of isopropanol. 50 ml of 2N HCl solution are added. The mixture is refluxed for 24 hours. After cooling, the reaction mixture is extracted with 2 × 100 ml of dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed twice with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution, with water and then dried over sodium sulphate. After concentration under reduced pressure, a brown oil is obtained which is purified by passage over a silica column (eluent: CH 2 Cl 2). 3.83 g (yield 51%) of the pure fractions of isopropyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate are recovered in the form of a yellow solid and used as such in the next step. third step: preparation of the derivative of Example 11: Under nitrogen sparge, a mixture of the derivative of the first step of Example 10 (3.8 g, 0.013 mol) and the derivative of the previous step (2 84 g, 0.0065 mol) suspended in 85 ml of toluene is refluxed for 5 hours. Cool and add dichloromethane. The organic phase is washed with a saturated solution of sodium bicarbonate and then with water. The organic phase is dried and concentrated under reduced pressure. The yellow oil obtained is subjected to separation on a silica column (eluent: heptane / EtOAc 80:20). Clean fractions are recovered in the form of a pale yellow solid from the derivative of Example 11 (3 g, yield 50%): UV (Ethanol): 2max = 356 nm, El% = 760.

EXAMPLE 12 Preparation of 2,4,6-tris (dimethyltrimethyl) -s-triazine 4'-amino benzalmalonate-s-triazine: First step: preparation of di-methyltrimethylsilyl malonate: In a reactor surmounted by a Dean Stark, reflux is carried out for 3 hours malonic acid (8.3 g, 0.079 mol) and methyltrimethylsilyl alcohol (18.35 g, 0.176 mol) in 50 ml of toluene in the presence of 0.1 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid. The water formed is removed by azeotropy. The organic phase is washed 3 times with water and is dried over sodium sulfate. After filtration and evaporation of the solvent in vacuo, 22 g of a colorless oil are obtained. After distillation under vacuum of 0.15 mbar, the fractions distilling at 74-76 ° C. of di-methyltrimethylsilyl malonate (19.6 g, yield 90%) are collected in the form of a colorless oil and used as such in the aqueous solution. 'next step.

Second step: preparation of di-methyltrimethylsilyl 4-nitrobenzalmalonate

In a flask equipped with a Dean Stark surmounted by a condenser and under a nitrogen sparge, p-nitro benzaldehyde (4.65 g, 0.03 mol) and dineopentyl malonate (8.5 g, 0.031 mol) in 15 ml of toluene. To this is added the pre-prepared catalyst, acetic acid (0.2 ml) and piperidine (0.3 ml) suspended in 0.5 ml of toluene. The mixture is stirred under reflux for 5 hours and the water formed is removed via Dean Stark. Two additions of the same amounts of catalyst were necessary. The toluene is removed under vacuum, the residue is taken up in isopropyl ether and then washed twice with water. After drying of the organic phase and evaporation of the solvent, a brown red oil is obtained. After purification on a silica column (eluent: heptane / AcOEt 9: 1), 7.1 g (yield 57%) of clean fractions of dimethyltrimethylsilyl 4-nitrobenzalmalonate are collected in the form of a pale yellow solid and used as such in the next step.

Third step: preparation of di-methyltrimethylsilyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate

With stirring and sparging with nitrogen, the derivative of the preceding step (3.2 g, 0.0078 mol) is dispersed in 5.5 ml of acetic acid. 8 ml of water are added. The mixture is heated to 50 ° C. Iron (4.36 g) is added in portions without exceeding a temperature of 55 ° C (introduction time 1 hour). Then, acetic acid (8 ml) was added dropwise without exceeding a temperature of 55 ° C (introduction time 1 hour). An additional 45 minutes is heated to 55 ° C. Cool, add dichloromethane and filter through Celite. The organic phase is washed with water, with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution, with water and then dried over sodium sulfate. After concentration under reduced pressure an orange oil is obtained which is purified by chromatography on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / AcOEt 9: 1). 1.8 g (34%) SiO 2 Si are recovered (yield 62%) of eigenfactions of dimethyltrimethylsilyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate as a yellow solid and used as such in the next step.

Fourth Step: Preparation of the Derivative of Example 12: Under nitrogen sparging, the above derivative (1.1 g, 9.66x10-4 mol) dissolved in 5 ml of toluene is introduced at 0-5 ° C. drop at drop to a dispersion of cyanuric chloride (0.18 g, 3.22x10-4 mol) in 10 ml of toluene. The mixture is then refluxed for 5 hours under nitrogen degassing. After cooling, the organic phase is washed with water and then with an aqueous solution of sodium bicarbonate. Concentrated under reduced pressure. The residue obtained is solubilized in 1,2-dichloroethane. The organic phase is washed with water, with saturated sodium bicarbonate solution, with water and then dried over sodium sulfate. After concentration under reduced pressure, a yellow oil is obtained which is purified by chromatography on a silica column (eluent: Heptane / AcOEt 85:15). 0.75 g (yield 64%) of clean fractions of the derivative of Example 12 are collected in the form of a pale yellow gum: UV (Ethanol) 2 max = 355 nm; E1% = 987.

EXAMPLES OF FORMULATION

The oil / water emulsions containing the 2 filters of families (I) and (IX) respectively, respectively, are produced, the amounts being expressed in percentages by weight relative to the total weight of each composition: Composition Formula Formula 2 Formula ule Phase A Poly Dimethylsiloxane 0.5 0.5 0.5 PreservativesConservatives 1 1 1 Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 Mixture of glyceryl mono-stearate / 1 1 1 stearate of PEG (100 0E) Mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and 2 2 2 cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol Cetyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 C12 / C15 alcohol benzoate 10 10 Compound of Example (2) 2 1 Compound of Example (15) 3 Compound of Example (24) 3 Compound of Example (5) 1 Compound of Example (20) 2 Phase B Deionized water QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 Complexing 0.1 0.1 0.1 Glycerol 5 5 5 Xanthan gum 0.2 0.2 0.2 Mono cetyl phosphate 1 1 1 Phase C Iso-Hexadecane 1 1 1 Acidic copolymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 acrylic / stearyl methacrylate Triethanolamine QSP p H QSP pH QSP pH Operating Mode:

The aqueous phase (Phase B) containing all of its ingredients is heated at 80 ° C. in a water bath. The fatty phase (Phase A) containing all of its ingredients is heated to 80 ° C. in a water bath. A is emulsified in B with rotor-stator type stirring (apparatus of the Moritz company). Phase C is incorporated and allowed to come to room temperature with moderate stirring. The triethanolamine is introduced so as to adjust the pH to the desired value at the end of manufacture.

EXAMPLES OF ABSORPTION PROFILE OF THE MIXTURE OF 2 FILTERS RESPECTIVELY CHOSEN IN EACH FAMILY (I) AND (IX): Definition of the absorption profile: at least 50% of the normalized absorbance in a range of wavelengths at minimum of 290 nm at 375 nm. The spectra are made by solubilizing in absolute ethanol in the given weight / weight ratio of the 2 filters and measuring the C in a 1 cm vat with the spectrophotometer. The spectrum is then normalized.

The 3 examples below illustrate this definition:

Figure 1 shows the spectrum of the 1: 2% compound compound formula (2) + 3% compound formula (15):

Figure 2 shows the spectrum of the 1: 2% mixture compound formula (2) + 3% compound formula (24): Figure 3 shows the spectrum of the mixture 1: 2% compound formula (5) + 3% compound formula (20) ): PHOTOSTABILITY TESTS OF FORMULATIONS 1 to 3

Measurement method For each formula, 3 test samples and 3 control samples were prepared. Spatula is deposited with 2 mg / cm 2 of formula on polymethyl methacrylate plates.

The test plates are exposed for 37 minutes to SUN TEST HERAUS equipped with a Xenon lamp having a UV-A flux of 9.68 × 10 -3 W / cm 2 and a UV-B flux of 5.76 × 10 -4 W / cm 2.

The control plates are stored for the same time and at the same temperature (38-40 ° C) in the dark.

At the end of this time, the filters are extracted by immersing each plate in 50 g of methanol and subjecting them to ultrasound for 15 minutes to ensure good extraction. The solutions obtained are analyzed by HPLC.

For each formula tested, the residual filter levels after exposure of the families of formulas (I) and (IX), respectively, are given in the ratio of the optical density (OD) in the sample exposed to their optical density (OD). not exposed. We place ourselves at the maximum absorption of each filter.

The results obtained are summarized in the following table: Compositions 0/0% residual (average) of the residual (average) filter of the UV-A filter of formula (IX) UV-B of formula (I) after exposure after exposure Formula 1: 2% Compound of formula (2) Compound of formula (15) 95.9 3.8 99.2 6.0 compound formula (2) + 3% compound formula (15) Formula 2: 1% Compound of formula (2) Compound of formula (24) 96.4 3.3 92.1 3.4 compound formula (2) + 3% compound formula (24) Formula 3: 1% Compound of formula (5) Compound of formula (20) 94, 3 4.4 90.2 4.8 compound formula (5) + 2% compound formula (20) It is therefore found that these 3 formulas are photostable. 30 35

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support at least one UV filtering system, characterized in that it comprises at least: (a) at least one siliconized s-triazine substituted with two aminobenzoate or aminobenzamide groups of the following formula (I) or one of its tautomeric forms: (D) - (Si`O (3-a) / 2 (I) (R) a in which - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, and optionally halogenated or unsaturated, a C 6 -C 12 aryl radical, a C 1 -C 10 alkoxy radical, a hydroxy radical or the trimethylsilyloxy group; a = 1 to 3; in addition to the units of the formula -Au (Si) (R) a (0) (3a) / 2, the organosiloxane may comprise units of formula: (R) b- (Si) (O) (4b) / 2 in which: R has the same meaning as in formula (I ), b = 1, 2 or 3; - the group (D) denotes a s-triazine compound of formula (II): ## STR1 ## where X represents -O- or -NR 3 -, with R3 representing hydrogen or a C1-C5 alkyl radical; R1 represents a linear or branched and optionally unsaturated C1-C30 alkyl radical which may contain a silicon atom or a C5-C20 cycloalkyl group, optionally substituted with 1 to 3 linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radicals, the group û (CH2CHR4-O) mR5 or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2-O-R6, R4 represents hydrogen or methyl; the group (C = O) XR1 may be in the ortho, meta or para position of the amino group; - R5 represents hydrogen or a C1-C8 alkyl group; -R6 represent hydrogen or a C4-C8 alkyl group; m is an integer ranging from 2 to 20, -n = 0 to 2, -R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical, a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical or a C 1 -C 8 alkoxy radical; , two adjacent R 2 of the same aromatic ring may together form an alkylidene dioxy group in which the alkylidene group contains 1 or 2 carbon atoms, 40 - A is a divalent radical selected from methylene or a group corresponding to one of the formulas (III), (IV), (V) or (VI): ## STR2 ## where (III) (Z) CH (IV) in which: Z is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 10 alkylene diradical, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical or with oxygens and which can optionally be contain an amino group, - W represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical, and (b) at least one s-triazine substituted with at least one two aminobenzalmalonate groups of the following formula (IX): embedded image in which: Ra, which may be identical or different, denote a group of formula (X): ## STR1 ## Wherein R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, R 9 and R 10 may form a C 5 -C 8 ring, optionally substituted by 1, 2 or 3 groups; C1-C4 alkyl (s) linear or branched; (x) R 11, R 12 and R 13, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; f is 0 or 1; g is 0 or 1; provided that: - when f = 1 and R12 denotes hydrogen then g is 0 and R11 is different from hydrogen, - when R9 and R10 form a C5-C8 ring then the sum f + g is different of 2; T is a divalent radical: - of the following formula (XI): ## STR2 ## in which Ra has the same definition as in formula (XII) above, - of the following formula (XII): wherein R 1, R 2, X and n have the same definition as in formula (II) above; - of the following formula (X111): ## STR2 ## Wherein X has the same meaning as in formula R8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched C1-C20 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, and hydroxyl or phenyl radicals. 30 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the compounds of formula (I) and / or the compounds of formula (IX) additionally comprise units of formula -A- (Si) (R) a (O) (3-ay2) the organosiloxane may comprise units of formula (R) b- (Si) (O) (4-by2) in which R has the same meaning as in formula (I), b = 35 1,2 or 3. 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the compounds of formula (I) are represented by the following formulas (Ia), (Ib) or (Ic): ## STR1 ## wherein R7 is R7 R7 R7 R7 R7 R7 R7 R7 R7 R7 R7 R7 where Si (Si) (Si) (Si) Si (Si) (Si) (Si) (Si) (Si) where (R) (R) (3) in which: - (D) corresponds to formula (II) as as defined above, R 7, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, phenyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl and trimethylsilyloxy radicals or the hydroxyl-R 8 radical, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, the hydroxyl or phenyl radicals, - (B), which are identical or different, and are chosen from the radicals R 7 and the radical (D), - r is an integer between 0 and 200 inclusive, - s is an integer from 0 to 50 and if s = 0, at least one of the two symbols (B) is (D), - u is an integer from 1 to 10, - t is a name integer ranging from 0 to 10, it being understood that t + u is equal to or greater than 3 and their tautomeric forms. 4. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the linear or cyclic diorganosiloxanes of formula (Ia) or (Ib) are random oligomers or polymers preferably having at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: - R7 is the methyl radical, the C1-C2 alkoxy radical or the hydroxyl radical, - B is preferably methyl. 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from the following compounds (1) to (14) and their tautomeric forms: (1) NH NH (3) ( 5) NH 4 (7) with r = 8.1 Si-O + 1 O- [NH N HNNNH O (8) (9) (10). . ## STR1 ## where (12) The composition according to claim 5, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the following compounds or a tautomeric form thereof: ## STR2 ## wherein , N, NH (1), NH, NH, Si, INP / Si, O, Si, HN, N, NH, Si, INPO, SiHN, N, NH, (5) OH (6) 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the compound of formula (IX) is selected from the group consisting of (i) those for which f = 1 and R12 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl and more particularly methyl, (ii) those for which f = 1 and R11 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl and more particularly methyl, (iii) those for which f = g = 0 and R9, R10 and R11 denote a C1-C4 alkyl and more particularly methyl, or (iv) those for which R 11 denotes hydrogen and R 9 and R 10 form a C 5 -C 8 ring optionally substituted with 1 or 2 alkyl radicals and more particularly cyclohexyl radicals. 15 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compounds of formula (IX) wherein T denotes a group of formula (XI) are chosen from the following compounds (15) to (19): (15) ( 16) (17) (18) (19) 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compounds of formula (IX) wherein T denotes a group of formula (XII) are chosen from the following compounds (20) to (28): (20) ( 21) (22) HNYNYNH NYN OO, NH (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) HN NNH NYN (28) 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compounds of formula (IX) wherein T denotes a group of formula (X111) are chosen from the following compounds (29) and (33): If .0, Si HN N NH Y ~ I y - N y ~ N NyN / OI ID OII ~ NH HN N NH O o II I NH oo (29) (30) (31) Si SiSiSiNHiNi NH Si N b ~ si.o, if HN_ N. NH o (32) (33) 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compounds of formula (IX) wherein T denotes a group of formula (XIV) are chosen from compounds of formulas (34) and (35) below: HNYN NH NYN o ro O, Si Si. I JSi ~ (34) (35) 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the compounds of formula (IX) are chosen from the following compounds: ## STR2 ## , oo ~ ,, oo, (20) (24) HN NNYNYN (29) (31) (34) 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains no other organic or inorganic UV filter that the compound or compounds of formula (I) and formula (IX). 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises in addition to other complementary organic or inorganic UV filters active in UV-A and / or UV-B water-soluble or liposoluble or insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents. ro o .Si / si, o