FR2942961A1 - Composition, useful to protect the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, comprises at least one UV filter system in a medium, dibenzoylmethane derivative, and dihydrochalcone compounds - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition (I) comprises: at least one UV filter system in a medium; at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative; and at least one dihydrochalcone compounds (A) and/or its derivatives. Composition (I) comprises: at least one UV filter system in a medium; at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative; and at least one dihydrochalcone compound of formula (A) and/or its derivatives. R 1>, R 2>H, 1-4C alkyl, saccharide or oligosaccharide; and R 3>, R 4>H, OH or 1-4C alkoxy. [Image].

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A DIBENZOYLMETHANE DERIVATIVE AND DIHYDROCHALCONE; The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing the combination of at least one filter of the dibenzoylmethane derivative type and of at least one dihydrochalcone of formula (I) and / or one of at least one dihydrochalcone derivative of formula (I) and / or one of its derivatives whose definition will be given below. It also relates to a photostabilization process with respect to the radiation of at least one filter of the dibenzoylmethane derivative type by a dihydrochalcone of formula (I) and / or one of its derivatives, the definition of which will be given below. after. The present invention also relates to the use of at least one dihydrochalcone of formula (I) and / or one of its derivatives in a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one derivative of dibenzoylmethane for the purpose to improve the effectiveness of said composition against UV-A radiation.

It is known that the luminous radiations of wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allow the browning of the human epidermis, and that the wavelength rays more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known under the name UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns that can affect the development of natural tanning. For these reasons as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of control of this natural tan to thereby control the color of the skin; it is therefore necessary to filter this UV-B radiation. It is also known that UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are likely to induce an alteration thereof, particularly in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature cutaneous aging. They promote the triggering of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in some subjects and may even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons such as the preservation of the natural elasticity of the skin for example, more and more people wish to control the effect of UV-A on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter the UV-A radiation.

In order to protect the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, antisolar compositions comprising UV-B active and UV-B active organic screening agents are generally used. Most of these filters are fat soluble.

In this respect, a particularly advantageous family of UV-A filters is presently constituted by the dibenzoylmethane derivatives, and especially 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, which in fact have a high intrinsic absorption capacity. . These dibenzoylmethane derivatives, which are now products that are well known per se as active filters in UV-A, are described in particular in French patent applications FR-A-2326405 and FR-A-2440933, as well as in European Patent Application EP-A-0114607; 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (or avobenzone) is also currently offered for sale under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS.

Unfortunately, it turns out that dibenzoylmethane derivatives are relatively sensitive to ultraviolet (especially UV-A) radiation, that is to say, more precisely, that they have an unfortunate tendency to degrade more or less. quickly under the action of the latter. Thus, this substantial lack of photochemical stability of the dibenzoylmethane derivatives with respect to the ultraviolet radiation to which they are inherently intended to be subjected, does not guarantee a constant protection during prolonged solar exposure, so that repeated applications at intervals of Regular and close times must be performed by the user to achieve effective protection of the skin against UV rays. 20 We know in the article Study on the Photolysis Inhibition of Sun-creening Agent Parsol 1789 by Wang Jianguo, Liu Haifenh, Wang Jianxin-Flavor Fragance Cosmetics No. 1 February 2002, pages 17-20 "that some flavonoids like rutin have However, the photostability of this filter by these flavonoids is not yet fully satisfactory.

The applications DE19937758, DE19923713, DE19923712, DE19923772 teach the possibility of associating flavonoid 30 with organic UV filters, such as derivatives of flavone or flavonone glycosides, in particular aglucosylrutin or chalcone derivatives, in particular phlorizine and neohesperidinedihydrochalcone.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "flavonoid" is intended to mean any substance belonging to one of the following families of compounds: (i) flavone or flavonone-derived glycosides whose basic structure is (ii) glycosides derived from 3-hydroxyflavone (flavonol) whose basic structure is 0 (iv) the aurone-derived glycosides whose basic structure is (iv) the isoflavone-derived glycosides whose basic structure is (v) the chalcones which can be substituted by saccharides or oligosaccharides having the basic structure: In these same documents, examples of solar formulations based on 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (or avobenzone) and α-glucosylrutin have been described. None of these documents evokes the problem of the photostability of dibenzoylmethane type filters.

The photostabilisation of dibenzoylmethane derivatives with respect to UV radiation by flavonoid compounds thus constitutes, to date, a problem which has not yet been solved in a completely satisfactory manner. However, the Applicant has now discovered, surprisingly, that by associating with the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane mentioned above a dihydrochalcone of formula (I) particular that will be defined later in detail, it was possible to to further substantially and remarkably improve the photochemical stability (or photostability) of these same dibenzoylmethane derivatives and their effectiveness in UV-A.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

Thus, in accordance with one of the objects of the present invention, there is now proposed a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support at least one UV filtering system, characterized in that it comprises: (a) at least one derivative dibenzoylmethane and (b) at least one dihydrochalcone of formula (I) which will be defined hereinafter and / or one of its derivatives.

Another subject of the invention also relates to a process for improving the chemical stability with respect to the UV radiation of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative comprising associating with said dibenzoylmethane derivative an effective amount of at least one dihydrochalcone of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative. formula (I), the definitions of which will be given below and / or one of its derivatives.

The subject of the present invention is also the use of at least one dihydrochalcone of formula (I) and / or one of its derivatives in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one derivative of dibenzoylmethane for the purpose to improve the effectiveness of said composition vis-à-vis UV-A.

Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following detailed description.

By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its superficial body growths, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), which can divert the consumer to use this composition.

By effective amount is meant an amount sufficient to achieve a significant and significant improvement in the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) in the cosmetic composition. This minimum amount of dihydrochalcone derivative of formula (I), which may vary according to the nature of the support selected for the composition, can be determined without any difficulty by means of a conventional photostability measurement test such as that given in the examples. below. By dihydrochalcone derivative is meant the hydrates of said dihydrochalcone, especially its organic salts, the extracts containing said dihydrochalcone, the ethers of said dihydrochalcone and a C 1 -C 4 alcohol or the glycosylated forms of said dyhydrochalcone. The dihydrochalcones according to the present invention correspond to the following general formula (I): in which: R 1 and R 2: identical or different, denote a hydrogen or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a saccharide or oligosaccharide, R3, R4, the same or different; denote a hydrogen group; a hydroxyl group or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkoxy radical.

Among the saccharide or oligosaccharide groups, mention may be made, for example, of hexosyl groups, in particular rhamnosyl or glucosyl, allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl, talosyl and pentosyl.

Among the C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and tert-butyl groups.

Among the C1-C4 alkoxy groups include, for example, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy.

Among the compounds of formula (I), use will be made more particularly of those selected from the following compounds of formula (II) and mixtures thereof: (II) in which: R1 and R2: same or different; denote a hydrogen, or a methyl radical or a saccharide or oligosaccharide group 3o R3, R4: identical or different; denote a hydrogen, hydroxyl or methoxy group; as well as their derivatives.

Among the saccharide or oligosaccharide groups, there may be mentioned, for example, hexosyl groups, in particular rhamnosyl or glucosyl, allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl, talosyl and pentosyl. The dihydrochalcone extracts may be crude extracts containing at least one dihydrochalcone or moieties enriched by said dihydrochalcone.

s Crude extracts of plants such as apple or apple, citrus (including citrus aurantium), pear (pyrus malus), helichrysum (Helichysum splendidum), kalmia latifolia, Pieris japonica, Micromelum tephrocarpum , Lithophragma affine. Among the compounds of formula (I) or (II), use will be made more particularly of those selected from the following compounds: ## STR2 ## wherein: ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## 54-4 DIHYDROCHALCO-N-OH 2 ', 4', 6 ', 3,4-57765-PENTAHYDROXY 66-9 DIHYDROCHALCO N 2% 4% 61- TRIHYDROXY-3,4-124281-H OMe OMe DIMETHOXY 55-6 DIHYDROCHALCO N-NARINGINE 18916-H OH H DIHYDROCHALCO 17-1 N 2% 4% 61-TRIHYDROXY 1088-HHH DIHYDROCHALCO O-O-2'-HYDROXY-4 ', 6'-3791-DIMETHOXY Me HH DIHYDROCHALCO 76-2 NE 2' 6'-DIHYDROXY-35241-4,4'-DIMETHOXYH-N-DIHYDROCHALCO 54-4 NE 2 ', 6'-DIHYDROXY-35241-4'-METHOXYHHH DIHYDROCHALCO 55-5 NE HESPERETIN 35400-H OMEOH DIHYDROCHALCO 60 NF will be used more particularly phloretin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone. The dihydrochalcones of formula (I) and / or their derivatives are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight.

The dihydrochalcones of formula (I) and their derivatives are known per se. They have been described and their insulation is well known.

Neohesperidin DHC, is a glycosylated flavonoid, which has the following structure: OH It is also known under the name IUPAC: 1- (4 - ((2-O- [6-Deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl] - RD- glucopyranosyl) oxy) -2,6-dihydroxyphenyl) -3- [3-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl] -1-propanon.

Neohesperidin DHC (CAS number 20702-77-6) can be obtained, in particular, either from neohesperidin, which can be extracted from bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), or from the naringin which is obtained grapefruit (Citrus paradisii). Synthesis from the extracted neohesperidin involves hydrogenation in the presence of a catalyst under alkaline conditions. The synthesis from naringin is based on the conversion of naringin to phloroacetophenone-4'-13-neohesperidoside, which can be condensed with isovanillin (3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde) to produce neohesperidin (See the following references: Borrego, F. Sweeteners (3rd edition), 2007, 67-77 and Borrego, F. Montijano, H. Food Science and Technology, 2001, 112 (Sweeteners Alternatives), 87-104).

The neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is especially available under the commercial reference Neohesperidin DC FERRER (Zoster).

Phloretin (CAS number 60-82-2) has the following structure: Phloretin is the aglycone form of Phloridzine, which is a secondary compound of the plant.

s Phloretin can be obtained as follows: from the skin of grapes, narginine is extracted with ethanol. It is then hydrogenated to lead to naringindihydrochalcone which by hydrolysis will form phloretin.

Phloretin is in particular available under the trade name 183784 io Biotive Phloretin from Symrise.

Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone such as phloretin may exist in hydrate form.

Among the dibenzoylmethane derivatives, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner: 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert.-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4 5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,6-dimethyl-4-tert butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. Of the dibenzoylmethane derivatives mentioned above, use will in particular be made of 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane, sold under the name "Eusolex 8020" by the company Merck, and corresponding to the following formula: It is particularly preferred to use 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane or Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane, offered for sale under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by the company DSM 40 NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS; this filter has the following formula: ## STR5 ## The dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) may be present in the compositions in accordance with the invention at contents which preferably vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. at 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may further comprise other organic UV or inorganic UV-screening agents which are water-soluble or liposoluble or insoluble in the commonly used cosmetic solvents.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional filters and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired. by the addition or additions envisaged in particular the improvement of the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative.

The additional organic screening agents are chosen in particular from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; R, R-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; Benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives such as those described in applications W004006878, W005058269 and W006032741 and mixtures thereof.

Examples of complementary organic photoprotective agents are those referred to below under their INCI name:

Cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name 45 Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by SYMRISE, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate

Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid: PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name UVINUL P25 by BASF,

Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by SYMRISE, Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name DIPSAL by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by Symrise,

Derivatives of 13,13-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF,

Benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-35 4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, Benzophenone-5 Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid 40 Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name Trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, Benzophenone-12 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) n-hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name UVINUL A + by BASF.

Benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by CHIMEX, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by 50 CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO by CHIMEX, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by CHIMEX, s Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by CHIMEX,

Derivatives of phenyl benzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by SYMRISE,

Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 100 by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name TINOSORB M by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS, 20 Triazine derivatives: - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by CIBA GEIGY, - Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL 25 T150 by BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the name commercial UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V, - 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine - 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s triazine, 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine, 2,4bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (4'- n-butyl aminobenzoate s-triazine, the symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or Symetrical Triazine Derivatives IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 September 2004) including 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3) , 5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine which is incorporated in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, 40 WO2006 / 034985.

Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl Anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by SYMRISE, Imidazoline Derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,

Benzalmalonate Derivatives: 45 Benzalmalonate functional polyorganosiloxane such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.

s Derivatives of 4,4-diarvlbutadiene: -1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene

Benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V and mixtures thereof.

Derivatives of Merocyanine Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate The preferred organic screening agents are selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone- 4, Benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate. 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate) dineopentyl) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine 2,4bis (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) s-triazine, 2,4bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3) 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine 5-triazine Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone-15 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine Octyl-5- N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate and mixtures thereof.

The complementary inorganic filters are chosen from pigments 50 of coated or uncoated metal oxides, the average size of the primary particles of which is preferably between 5 nm and 100 nm (preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm), for example dye pigments. titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium or mixtures thereof which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se.

The pigments can be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, are metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

In a known manner, the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially constituted by a repeating main motifs in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane linkage), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.

The term "silicones" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes. The silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably selected from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. More preferably still, the silicones are selected from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogensiloxanes.

Of course, the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "Sunveil" from the company Ikeda and the product "45 Eusolex T-AVO" from the company Merck - silica and iron oxide such as that the product "SUNVEIL F" of the company IKEDA, - silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" of the company TAYCA, 50 "TIOVEIL" of the company TIOXIDE, and Mirasun TiW 60 from Rhodia, - alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA, - aluminum alumina and stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from TAYCA, the products" Solaveil CT-10 W "," Solaveil CT 100 "and" Solaveil CT 200 "from the company UNIQEMA, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product" MT-100 AQ "from the company TAYCA, - aluminum alumina and laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM io DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from the company TAYCA, iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" of the TAYCA company, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR351" from TAYCA, 15 - silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS" "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS" from TAYCA, - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS" the company TITAN KOGYO, 20 - silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" Kemira company, or the product SMT-100 WRS TAYCA company. of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" from ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262" from KEMIRA, of triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65- S "of the company TITAN KOGYO, - stearic acid such as the product" TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C) "from the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W "of the company TAYCA. Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane and having an average particle size of between 25 and 40 nm, such as that sold under the trade name " T 805 "by the company Degussa Silices, the TiO 2 35 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 21 nm, such as that sold under the trade name" 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3 "by CARDRE, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 25 nm such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.

The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names 45 "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company WACKHER under the name "transparent titanium oxide PW", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name 50 "TIOVEIL AQ".

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; those marketed under the name "Nanox" by Elementis; s - those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies;

The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those sold under the name Z-COTE HP1 by the company SUNSMART (ZnO coated with dimethicone); those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate); those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and the 20 polymethylhydrogensiloxane); those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / copolymer PVP-hexadecene / methicone); Those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC. Uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ," NANOGARD WCD 2006 (FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220 ".

The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL", or by the company BASF under the name "OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON". Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, of which the titanium dioxide / cerium-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL" A ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211" sold by the company Kemira.

The additional UV filters are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous compositions in accordance with the present invention may further comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers , emollients, silicones, anti-foam agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, actives, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any another ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.

The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined above or their mixtures. By oil is meant a liquid compound at room temperature. By wax is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.

As oils, there may be mentioned mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Eldew SL-205 by the company Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as benzoate of C12-alcohols. C15 sold under the trade name Finsoly TN or Witconol TN by the company WITCO, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226 by the company ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC by Cognis), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated esters and fatty ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated oils, polyalkylenes, trialkyl trimellitates such as tridecyl trimellitate.

As wax compounds, mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL.

Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate), copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and in particular gums such as Xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, as lipophilic thickeners, of synthetic polymers such as the poly C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name INTELIMER IPA 13-1 and INTELIMER IPA 13-6 by the company Landec or else modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the name of Bentone. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged additions, especially the improvement of the photostability of the dibenzoylmethane derivative.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or gel. cream; in the form of an aqueous gel; in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsions may also contain other types of stabilizers, for example fillers, gelling or thickening polymers.

Exemplary emulsifying surfactants for the preparation of W / O emulsions include, for example, alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and the alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning" 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of alkylated polyol esters.

Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI.

Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of O / W emulsions which may be mentioned as emulsifiers are nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate sold, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, especially alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside 40 marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with alcohol cetostearyl, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778.

Among the other emulsion stabilizers, the polymers of isophthalic acid or sulphoisophthalic acid, and in particular the phthalate / sulphoisophthalate / glycol copolymers, for example the diethylene glycol / phthalate / isophthalate / 1,4 copolymer, will be used more particularly. cyclohexane dimethanol (INCI name: Polyester-5) sold under the names "Eastman AQ polymer" (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical. In the case of an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared by known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965)). , FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008). The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetics, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair. Another object of the present invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes. , eyebrows and / or scalp, especially skincare products, sunscreen products.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less creamy creams. , gel-creams, pasta. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description).

The aerosol-conditioned compositions according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, the hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention may further comprise additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.

The additional active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents and agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules. and / or epidermal and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or io keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, antagonists peripheral benzodiazepine receptors (PBR), agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensors, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents, agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation, soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, seboregula or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-acne agents.

The person skilled in the art will choose the active agent (s) according to the desired effect on the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.

For the care of aged skin, it will preferably choose at least one active ingredient chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists (PBR), agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, liporestructuring agents and skin micro-circulation promoting agents for the outline of the eyes. 35

For the care of oily skin, those skilled in the art will preferably choose at least one active agent selected from desquamating agents, sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents. 1. Moisturizing or humectant agents

As moisturizing or moisturizing agents, there may be mentioned in particular glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, pidolate and the like. sodium, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata cylindra extract sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-50 HM from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids. ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CRD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene mixture glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalgae Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizing agent chosen from urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as NOF Lipidure-HM. corporation, beta-glucan and in particular carboxymethyl beta-glucan sodium of Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in the application WO 02/051828 and in particular CRD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture of water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

35 2. desquamating agents

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 13-40 hydroxy acids (BHA), in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (of which n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid (INCI name); α-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid; urea and its derivatives; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;

or on the enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzym 50 (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; derivatives of alpha amino acids of the glycine type (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

Other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention include: oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, olinoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl acid) acetic acid, trilactate of glycerol, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, is oligofucase such as those described in the patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, ficus opuntia indica flower extract such as Silab Exfolactive, 8-hexadecene 1,16-dicarboxylic acid; glucose and vitamin F esters; and mixtures thereof.

Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the compositions of the invention will use an edsquamant agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

35 3. Agents improving the barrier function

As agents improving the barrier function, there may be mentioned in particular arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane, a wild yam rhizome extract (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y. 'Active Organics', plankton extracts like Secma's omega plankton, yeast extracts like Coletica's Relipidium, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverin, a cedar bud extract such as Gattefossé's Gatuline Zen sphingosines, such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine 45 SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence from Coletica; unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rosebud oil and mixtures thereof. Ceramides or derivatives, in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in the INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-oleaoyldihydrosphingosine) can be mentioned in particular. 2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI name: hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine), sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and derivatives chromone, petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts.

Preferred agents having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier are Thermus thermophilus extract, wild yam rhizome extract (dioscorea villosa), yeast extract, chestnut extract, cedar bud extract. arginine, serine, and especially ceramides of type 3 and 5; and their mixtures.

Preferably, serine, arginine or a mixture thereof will be used.

4. Scrubbing agents

As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned in particular vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid , ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologues, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), of mulberry of skullcap; a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the molasses extract marketed by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, without this list being exhaustive.

As preferred depigmenting agents, use will be made of vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vits CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a Paeonia suffructicosa root extract such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

5. Antioxidant agents

In particular, tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate, may be mentioned; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, extracts of rosemary, extracts of olive leaves as those of society Silab, green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, a brown alga extract pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane, chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, phloretin, TotarolTM or Podocarpus totara extract containing totarol (totara-8, 11, 13-trienol or 2-phenenanthrenol, 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9, 10-octahydro-4b, 8,8-trimethyl-1 (1-methylethyl) - a jasmine extract such as marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun, hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704, a pomegranate fruit extract (Punica Granatum), such as that marketed by Draco Natural products.

As another anti-aging agent, mention may be made of DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (B carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives, and the like. jasmonic acid

As preferred antioxidant, ferulic acid will be used in particular; serine; phloretin, pomegranate extract, biotin, chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, caprylyl glycol, phloretine, TotarolTM, a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon; a root extract of Paeonia suffructicosa such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

6. Dermorelaxant or dermodecontracting agents

Mention may be made, for example, of manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an Iris pallida extract, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as the Wild yam and the carbonyl amines described in application EP1484052. Examples of sapogenins that may be mentioned are those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular wild yam, diosgenin extracted in particular from Dioscorea opposita or any extract which naturally closes or after treatment one or more sapogenins (rhizome of wild yam). agave leaf which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, extracted from liliaceous and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing the smilageine and 45 sarsapogenin, or the sarsaparilla root) or Actigen Y from the company Actives Organics ; or ginger. DMAE (dimethyl MEA), extracts of sea fennel, Montpellier rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an Acmella Oleracea extract such as Gatuline expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned. Preferred dermorelaxing agents include adenosine, manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.

7. Anti-glycation agents By anti-glycation agent is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen. As anti-glycation agents, mention may in particular be made of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG by the company COSMETOCHEM , ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810,548, FR 2,796,278 and FR 2,802,420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name AMADORINEO by the company SOLABIA, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name ALISTIN), an extract of Helianthus annuus such as Antiglyskin from Silab, wine extracts such as white wine powder extract on a maltodextrin support sold The name dehydrated white wine 2F by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777 from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, 25 a black tea extract. like Sederma Kombuchka and their mixtures.

Preferred anti-glycation agents include blueberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus) and black tea extract.

8. Agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their de-grading:

Among the active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those which act: either on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides 40 extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa 45 (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline CO; and arginine.

or on the inhibition of the degradation of collagen, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as, more particularly, MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol of Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids malt extract marketed by the company COLETICA under the trade name Collalift; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular the extracts of soya (marketed for example by the company ICHIMARU PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704; Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline sold by Seppic under the name SEPILIFT DPHP: Baccharis genistelloide or Baccharine marketed by SILAB, a moringa extract such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; the sage extract described in application FR-A-2812544 of the labiate family (salvia officinalis from Flacksmann), the Rhododendron extract, the blueberry extract, a vaccineium myrtillus extract such as those described in the application FR-A-2814950. Or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the family of elastins (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the extract of Macrocystis pyrifera alga marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C.

or on inhibiting the degradation of elastin, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with an alcohol in C1-C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica.

Or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the extract of Saccharomyces 45 cerevisiae available especially from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne from Secma; the essence of Lucas Meyer's Mamaku, a watercress extract (Odraline de Silab). or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as Salina zooplankton extract marketed by Seporga under the trade name GP4G; s yeast extract available especially from the company Alban Müller under the trade name Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil.

Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made in particular of the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC; and is Salina zooplankton extract marketed by SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G; Copper tripeptide from PROCYTE; ; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397. Preferably, an active stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation chosen from agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, the agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin, the agents stimulating the synthesis of the fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, use will be made of an active ingredient stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans chosen from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, a Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, the essence of Mamaku, an extract of cress and their mixtures .

As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: synthetic peptides such as amin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as the product marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; arginine; . an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophycea) 45 sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift lycopene; an extract of lychee; an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine; or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C1-C6 alcohol. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina'ine from Secma; the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer, the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC. 9. Proteins stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes

The agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts that may be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH- VEG 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); a hydrolysed soy protein extract such as RIDULISSE from SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C.

Preferably, an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.

Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amach 40 liquid E from Ichimaru Pharcos, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma's Capislow, papaya extract, olive leaf and lemon extracts such as Vincient Xyline, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha liquid Ichimaru Pharcos E, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, walnut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin marketed by Sederma.

Among the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate, such as that sold by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohésine; and a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trade name Filladyn LS 9397; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate.

As agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.

As active agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes, mention may be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH- VEG 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE SILAB; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline 00; Adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trademark Structurine; a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate.

10. Agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope In the compositions of the invention it is possible to use agents which mediate the maturation of the horny envelope, which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in activity. transglutaminases. There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance from National Starch 40 and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished).

11. NO-synthase inhibitors

The agent having a NO synthase inhibitory action may be selected from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species, sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect, or finally by Hansen under the name grape marc extract; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT; the extracts of a plant of the Gingko biloba species, preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract and mixtures thereof.

12. Benzodiazepine Peripheral Receptor Antagonists (ACBs)

For example, 1- (2-chlorophenyl) -N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide may be mentioned; the compounds described in WO03 / 030937, WO03 / 068753, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in document WO00 / 44384.

13. Agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland

Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof. 14. Agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of cells

The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells may for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as Sederma Phosphovital, the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidone acid. carboxylic acid such as Physiogenyl of Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3 Seppic and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as that sold by the company Mibelle AG Biochemistry;

15. Tensioning agents

By tensing agent that can be used according to the invention is meant compounds that can have a tensor effect, that is to say, that can tend the skin. In general, the term "tensioning agent" according to the invention means any compounds that are soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration. to which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing 40 at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water a retraction of more than 15% in the test described below. The maximum concentration at which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance is determined to within 10% and preferably to within 5%.

By 'homogeneous appearance medium' is meant a medium which does not have aggregates visible to the naked eye.

For the determination of said maximum concentration, the tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with stirring at the deflocculator at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., and the mixture is then stirred for a period of time. hour. It is then observed after 24 hours if the mixture thus prepared is of homogeneous appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye).

The tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test.

A homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at the concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described above. 30 μl of the homogeneous mixture is deposited on a rectangular test piece (10 × 40 mm, thus having an initial width LO of 10 mm) of elastomer having a modulus of elasticity of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm. After drying for 3 hours at 22 ° C. and 40% relative humidity RH, the elastomer specimen has a retracted width, noted L 3h, due to the tension exerted by the tensioning agent deposited.

The tensor effect (ET) of said agent is then quantified as follows:

ET '= (LO û L3h / LO) x100 in 0/0 with Lo = initial width 10mm and L3h = width after 3h of drying 20

The tensioning agent may be chosen from: vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; polysaccharides of natural origin; Mixed silicates; colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art will be able to choose, in the chemical categories listed above, the materials corresponding to the tensor test as described above.

These include: (a) proteins and hydrolysates of vegetable proteins, in particular maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, pepper, pea, bean, lentil, soybean and of lupine,

(b) polysaccharides of natural origin, in particular (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch obtained in particular from rice, maize, potato, cassava, pea, wheat, oats, etc ... or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, advantageously in aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) the latexes constituted by the shellac resin, the sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic derivatives, and mixtures thereof, (c) mixed silicates, especially phyllosilicates and in particular Laponites,

(d) the colloidal particles of inorganic filler having a number average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm, and chosen for example from: silica, silica-alumina composites, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. As silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made for example of those sold by Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA.

(e) synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as a propylthio (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane ( polymethyl methacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid). Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO 21.

The tensioning agent will be present in the composition in an amount effective to obtain the desired biological effect according to the invention. By way of example, the tensioning agent may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight of active material, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight of active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition.

By active material is meant to exclude the medium in which the tensioning agent is optionally solubilized or dispersed in its commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles.

It is also possible to use, in particular to complement and / or potentiate the effect of tensors, use agents that increase the expression of mechanoreceptors, such as agents increasing the expression of integrins. By way of example, mention may be made of a rye seed extract, such as the product marketed by SILAB under the name Coheliss.

16. Liporestructuring agents

According to the invention, the term "liporestructive agents" means agents capable of stimulating lipogenesis and promoting adipocyte differentiation, thus making it possible to prevent or slow the melting of the fats contained in the skin support tissues, otherwise known as `melting lipostructure of the skin '. By lipo-structure of the skin is meant the network of lipid cells which forms the volumes on which the skin of the face rests and molds.

These agents, which are intended to reduce the loss of cutaneous density and / or the melting of the lipostructure of the skin, in particular at the level of the cheeks and the contour of the eye, and / or to prevent sagging and / or the digging of facial volumes, the loss of consistency of the skin and / or its maintenance, especially at the level of the cheeks and the contour of the eye, and / or to improve the volumes which underlie the skin of the face and / or the neck, in particular at the level of the cheeks, the oval of the face and the contour of the eye, and / or to improve the density, the rebound and the maintenance of the skin, in particular at the level of the cheeks, the oval of the face and the contour of the eye, and / or reshape the features of the face, especially the oval of the face.

Examples of liporestructuring agents that may be mentioned include a black tea extract, such as the fermented black tea extract marketed by Sederma under the name Kombuchka, and an extract of Artemisia abrotanum, such as the one sold by Sllab under the name Pulpactyl. i0 17. Thinning agents

Slimming agents (lipolytics) that may be mentioned include caffeine, theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine, sericin, asiatic acid, acefylline, aminophylline, chloroethylheophylline, diprofylline, diniprophylline, etamiphylline and its derivatives, etofylline, proxyphylline; extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, mate, cola (Cola Nitida) and in particular the dry extract of guarana fruit (Paulina sorbilis) containing 8 to 10 caffeine; extracts of climbing ivy (Hedera Helix), arnica (Arnica Montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), ginseng (Panax ginseng), St. John's Wort (Byperycum Perforatum), Common Snapper (Ruscus aculeatus L), Ulmaria (Filipendula ulmaria L), Orthosiphon (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), Birch (Betula alba), Cécropia and Argan; ginkgo biloba extracts, horsetail extracts, escin extracts, cangzhu extracts, chrysanthellum indicum extracts, diosgenin-rich dioscorea extracts or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and their derivatives, Ballote extracts , extracts of Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, Antirobia, the extract of petit grain of bigarrade; an extract of cocoa bean shells (theobroma cacao) such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Caobromine.

18. Agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation

The active agent acting on the cutaneous microcirculation may be used to prevent dulling of the complexion and / or to improve the appearance of the contour of the eye, in particular to reduce dark circles. It may be chosen, for example, from a maritime pine bark extract such as Pycnogenol from Biolandes, manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn from Seppic), an Ammi visnaga extract such as 40 Visnadine from Indena, extract lupine (Eclaline de Silab), hydrolyzed wheat protein / palmitic acid coupling with palmitic acid such as Carilene Laboratories Epaline 100, Bitterberry flower extract (Silab remodulin), vitamin P and its derivatives such as sodium methyl-4 esculetol mono-ethanoate sold under the name Permethol by the company Sephytal, 45 extracts of ruscus, horse chestnut, ivy, ginseng and sweet clover, caffeine, nicotinate and its derivatives, the lysine and its derivatives such as Asparlyne de Solabia, a black tea extract such as Sederma's Kombuchka; rutin salts: an extract of algae corallina officinalis such as that marketed by CODIF; and their mixtures. As preferred agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation are caffeine, a bigarade flower extract, a black tea extract, rutin salts, an extract of corallina officinalis algae.

s 19. Soothing or anti-irritating agents

By soothing agent is meant a compound to reduce the sensation of tingling, itching or tightness of the skin.

As soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, C, B5, B3, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts containing them, acid b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid is monoglucuronide) and the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, the extracts of Centella asiatica, the oil of Canola , bisabolol, vitamin E and 20C diesterphosphoric acid, such as Seppic's Sepivital EPC, chamomile extracts, allantoin, omega 3 unsaturated oils such as rosehip, blackcurrant, ecchium, po isson, calophilum oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name "Seppicalm VG" by Seppic, a Boswellia extract serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami such as that sold under the name "Cehami PF" by the company TRI-K Industries, an extract of sunflower seeds, in particular Silab's Helioxin, an extract of Linum usitatissimum seeds such as Sensiline of Silab, tocotrienols, piperonal, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium such as that sold under the name "Canadian Willowherb Extract" by the company FYTOKEM PRODUCTS, aloe vera, phytosterols, blueberry water, rose water, a mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 35 761 204 and c. marketed by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a mixture of barley seed wax fraction obtained by supercritical CO2, butter of shea and argan oil such as "Stimu-tex AS" from Pentapharm, alkaline earth salts 40 including strontium, a fermented extract of Alteromonas sold under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that sold by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As preferred soothing agents according to the invention, use will be made of: b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) and the plants containing them ( eg Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and its salts; extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol; chamomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name Seppicalm VG by the company Seppic; aloe vera, rose water, mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761,204 and marketed by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG denomination, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas sold under the name Abyssine by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters are from the sources Célestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hospital, Lucas and Park, and preferably the water of the source Lucas; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi 20 Liquid B; and their mixtures.

20. Sebo-reqlator or anti-seborrhoeic agents

By "sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents" is meant in particular agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.

These include: - retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel; Mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine, sold in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; 3s - zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate ; copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate such as Cuivridone from Solabia; 40 - plant extracts of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by the company MARUZEN; - Meadowwort extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; linseed extracts such as the one sold under the name Linumine by the company Lucas Meyer; s - Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos; mixtures of argan oil, of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and of sesame seed extract, such as that sold under the name Regu IO SEB by the company Pentapharm; mixtures of extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as the product sold under the name Seborilys by the green tech company; extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as that sold under the name is Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company Euromed; mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as the product sold under the name Seboclear by the company Rahn; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl by Serobiological Laboratories; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; extracts of alga Laminaria, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by the company Biotechmarine; Oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif; cane sugar extracts such as the product sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulphonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by the company Ichthyol; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; Glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains, such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical; extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland; 45 - extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller; extracts of quillaja saponaria, such as the product sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; Phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; s - trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; and - their mixtures.

As preferred anti-seborrhoeic active agents, mention may be made of: benzoyl peroxide, vitamin B 6 (or pyridoxine), zinc salts, such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; Algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; - extracts of ulmaria (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-4o-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; - and their mixtures.

Preferably, the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is chosen from: - zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, carboxylate zinc, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; and preferably zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate) or zinc salicylate; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove 50 extract powder by the company Maruzen; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOLO ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOLO ECL by the company Sasol; - and their mixtures.

The anti-seborrhoeic active agent is for example present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Astringents

According to the invention, the term "astringent agents" means agents which make it possible to fight against the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.

As astringent agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of extracts of mushroom pulp (polyporus officinalis) such as "Laricyl LS88650" from Cognis, extracts of Terminalia catappa and sambucus nigra such as Phytofirm LS91200 from Cognis, gall-nut extracts such as Tanlex VEO from Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminum hydroxychloride, extracts of centella (ex Plantactiv centella of Cognis), di-ethyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as Varisoft 432 CG from Degussa, extracts of marmalade, mauve extracts, Hammamelis extracts, extracts of sweet almonds, marshmallow roots and flax seeds such as Cognis Almondermin LS 3380, burdock extracts, extracts of nettle, extracts of birch, extracts of horsetail, extracts of chamomile such as those sold under the name Extrapone 9 special0 by the company Symrise, extracts of scutellaria, extracts of Ulmaire (for example l e Cytobiol Ulmaire 30 from Libiol), a blend of extracts of white ginger, horsetail, nettle, rosemary, yucca such as Bell flavors & fragrances Herb extract B1348, extracts of acacia, elm , white willow, cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, Interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, gentian, cucumber, walnut extracts, the mixture of Ratanhia extracts, grapefruit , grindelia and oak gall as Alban Muller's Epilami0.

Preferred astringent agents according to the invention are scutellaria extracts, ulmary extracts, close-up queen extracts, gentian extracts, burdock extracts and mixtures thereof.

22. Healing Aqents

Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (such as Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 of Indena), a yeast extract such as the healing wound LS LO / 7225B from Serobiological Laboratories), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes0 TRFO from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, 50 chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as Vincience GP4G, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Sour Lemongrass, Horsetail Extracts, Lemon Bark Extracts like Cosmetochem's Lemon Herbasol, Helichryse Extracts, Millefeuilles Extracts , and folic acid.

Preferred healing agents according to the invention will be arginine, serine, folic acid, tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof. .

23. Anti-inflammatory agents

Particular antiinflammatory agents that may be used according to the invention include cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azealic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate, and the like. folic; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, there will be mentioned azelaic acid, folic acid, an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; a root extract of Paeonia suffructicosa such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

24. Anti-acne agents

In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition may further comprise at least one anti-acne active agent. By "anti-acne active" is meant any active having effects on the specific flora of oily skin such as for example Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes). These effects can be bactericidal. As anti-bactericidal active agents, mention may be made in particular of: the active agents and preservatives with anti-microbial activity mentioned in application DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference, 40 -Asiatic acid, -the monoethanolamine salt of 1 4-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-trimethylpentyl 2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), sold in particular under the name Octopirox by Clariant; citronellic acid, perillic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-ylecarboxylic acid), and 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine), for example sold under the name Sensiva SC 50 by the Shulke & Mayr company, - caprylate / glyceryl caprate, for example sold under the name 50 Capmul MCM by the company ABITEC; calcium and sodium phosphosilicate, sold in particular under the names Bioactive glasspowder and Actysse Premier BG by the company Schott Glass; silver-based particles, for example those sold under the name Metashine ME 2025 PS by the company Nippon Sheet Glass; the hop cone extract (Humulus Lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as that sold under the name HOP CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte; the extract of Millepertius obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as that sold under the name ST John's Wort CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte, - the mixture of extracts of roots of scutellaria baicalensis, of paeonia suffruticosa and of glycyrrhiza glabra, such as that sold under the name BMB-CF by the company Naturogin, is - argan extract such as Argapure LS9710 from COGNIS; - bearberry leaf extracts such as the one sold under the name "Melfade-J" by Pentapharm; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, such as Acnacidol P from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl p-tolylsulfone, such as Amable Flowable from Angus malachite powder, zinc oxide such as Zincare from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts , benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Seppic's Lipacid C8G, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines ; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect, such as sodium cocoampho acetate or diacetate disodium, such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as Clariant's cocoyl betaine Genagen KB, and sodium lauryl ether sulphate such as Emal 270. Kao D, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, C12-13 dialkool maleate branched as Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, lauryl 50 dimethylamine betaine as Empigen BB / LS as well as quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in patent FR 0 108 283 and mixtures thereof.

As preferred antimicrobial agents, the compositions of the invention will employ an agent selected from octoglycerin or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Other additional anti-acne active agents may be added to the aforementioned anti-acne active agents. It is possible to cite the active agents having bacterial anti-adhesion effects or acting on the biofilm of the bacteria to prevent their multiplication.

As agents which prevent and / or reduce the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made in particular of: phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as coconut oil, wheat, marigold oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or certain surfactants such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, coconut oxyethylenated glyceryl (70E), hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, branched C12-C13 di-alcohol tartrate described in US Pat. EP 1 129 694 and mixtures thereof. In particular with regard to the propagation of P acnes, or as active agents acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their proliferation, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, polyvinyl alcohol such as Celvol 540 PV alcohol from Celanese Chemical, rapeseed oil such as Akorex L from Karlshamns, and fructose derivatives and mixtures thereof.

The active ingredient against acne may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Depending on the nature and / or the solubility of the aforementioned assets, a person skilled in the art will know how to choose the most suitable embodiment according to the invention. As lipophilic active agents that may be used in the kit or at least one of the compositions of the invention, mention may in particular be made of D-tocopherol, DL-tocopherol, D-tocopherol acetate, DL-atocopherol acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, vitamin D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, retinol, retinol esters, retinol palmitate, retinol propionate 45, carotenes including 13 carotene, D panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate, salicylic acid and its derivatives such as 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, alkyl esters of a hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, acid glycolic acid, Asian acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, total extract of centella asiatica, glycyrrhetinic acid, bisabolol, ceramides such as 2-oleoylamino-1,3-octadecane, phytanetriol, phospholipids of marine origin rich in polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, eth oxyquin, rosemary extract, melissa extract, quercetin, dried microalgae extract, bergamot essential oil, octylmethoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octyls triazone, di tertiobutyl-3, 5-hydroxy-4-benzylidene camphor, antibiotics, antifungals, anesthetics, analgesics, antiseptics, antivirals, pesticides, herbicides, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents will be present in the kit or one of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.01%. % to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For peeling applications, the contents of cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents may range from 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition.

Peels are a well-known means for improving the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp, in particular to improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or to reduce visible and / or tactile irregularities. of the skin, and in particular to improve the surface appearance of the skin, to reduce actinic lentigo, marks of acne or chickenpox, as well as to prevent, attenuate or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to smooth irregularities in the texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

They have the effect of removing a superficial part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly superficial layer of the dermis) by chemical methods. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients compositions are given in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES OF FORMULATION 1 to 3 Ex1 Ex2 Ex3 Compositions (1 Alcohols benzoate 20.0 20.0 20.0 C12 / C15 Mixture mono- 6.5 6.5 6.5 glyceryl stearate / PEG stearate (100 0E ) Polyacrylamide 1.0 1.0 1.0 (and) C13-C14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 Compound 1 of _ 4.0 - the invention Compound 2 of - - 4.0 The invention Butyl 1.0 1.0 1.0 Methoxydibenzoyl methane (PARSOL 1789) Glycerine 5.0 5.0 5.0 Deionized water qsp qsp 100 100 100 s (*) excluding the invention

Photostabilization of 4- (ter-bute 4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane

PRINCIPLE OF THE PROCEDURE The percentage loss of dibenzoylmethane derivative induced by exposure to a solar simulator of a formula spread in films of thickness close to 20 μm is measured.

The evaluation is made by HPLC analysis of the filter in solution, after extraction of the films, by comparing irradiated and non-irradiated samples.

Material and conditions implemented

These emulsions are spread out in films of about 20 μm thick on a frosted side of a silica disc. The exact amount is determined by weighing. surface of 6 frosted quartz. 3 films are exposed to the ORIEL 1000W solar simulator equipped with a 4-inch output, with 81017 filter and dichroic mirror delivering a dose of 21.6 J / cm 2 UVA (corresponding to a 1 hour 25 UVA exposure). 3 other films serve as references. The samples are exposed in a horizontal position. 44 UV-meter: OSRAM CENTRA device equipped with 2 read heads, one for UVA and the other for UVB. The simulator and UV meter assembly is calibrated annually by spectroradiometry.

s Irradiance measurements made at the beginning and end of the exposure by placing the read heads at the sample position.

The irradiances are: 0.35 - 0.45mW / cm2 in UVB and 14 - 16 mW / cm2 in UVA.

At the end of the exposure, each support disk is introduced into a 600 ml jar with 10 ml of a suitable solvent (in general EtOH); the whole is placed for 5 minutes in an ultrasonic tank.

The solution is then transferred to vials suitable for the support which is compatible with the HPLC analyzer used.

The analytical conditions can be adjusted according to the tested active.

The residual Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane level is measured by chromatography: HPLC chain with diode bar detector (Waters).

The residual level of butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) is also measured after irradiation in the same support which does not contain a compound derived from dihydrochalcone of formula (I) (Comparative Example 25 Formula 1). The calculation of the residual rate (%) is carried out at from averages obtained on exposed and non-UV exposed samples, as described below: Residual compositions of avobenzone after exposure 1 hour UVA Ex 1 (1: avobenzone alone 19.8 0.8 Ex 2: avobenzone + phloretin 63.4 2.0 (compound 1) EX3: avobenzone + 64.0 2.9 neohesperidin dihydrochalcone (compound 2) 30 (*) Out of the Invention

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition comprising in a support cosmetically CLAIMS1. Composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support at least one UV filtering system, characterized in that it comprises: (a) at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative and (b) at least one dihydrochalcone of the following formula (I) and / or one of its derivatives: wherein R 1 and R 2: identical or different, denote a hydrogen, or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or a saccharide or oligosaccharide group; R3, R4: the same or different; denote a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 hydrogen, hydroxyl or alkoxy group 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from phloretin, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, phlorizine, 2 ', 6'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxydihydrochalcone; 2 ', 4', 6 ', 3,4-pentahydroxydihrochalcone, 2', 4 ', 6'-trihydroxy-3,4-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, naringin dihydrochalcone, 2', 4 ', 6'-trihydroxydihydrochalcone, 2 4 ', 6'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, 2', 6'-dihydroxy-4'-methoxydihydrochalcone, hesperetin dihydrochalcone and / or their derivatives as well as their mixtures: 3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the compound of formula (I) is chosen from phloretin, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone and / or their derivatives and mixtures thereof: 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the dihydrochalcone (s) of formula (I) are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the dibenzoylmethane derivative is 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane or butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane of the following formula: ## STR2 ## 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the dibenzoylmethane derivative (s) are present in the compositions in accordance with the invention at contents which preferably vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains in addition to other organic UV filters and / or ultraviolet UV filters active in the UV-A and / or UV- They are water-soluble or fat-soluble or are highly insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents. 8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the complementary organic filters are selected from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; 13,13-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; filter and silicone filters; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes; merocyanine derivatives and mixtures thereof. 9. The composition as claimed in claim 8, characterized in that the organic UV screening agent (s) is (are) chosen from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone -5,2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of n-hexyl. 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl triazone, 40 Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine 2,4bis (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) s-triazine, 2,4bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl) 1,3,5-triazine 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone-15 N-1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4, 4-Diphenylbutadiene2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine Octyl-5 -N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate and mixtures thereof. 10. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the complementary inorganic filters are metallic oxide pigments, coated or not. io 11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments have a mean primary particle size: between 5 nm and 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm. 12. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, in which the coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are chosen from titanium oxide pigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, of zirconium or cerium or their mixtures. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion. 14. Process for improving the chemical stability with respect to the UV radiation of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative as defined in any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that said dibenzoylmethane derivative is associated with effective amount of at least one dihydrochalcone of formula (I) and / or one of its derivatives as defined in the preceding claims. 30 15. Use of at least one dihydrochalcone of formula (I) and / or one of its derivatives as defined according to the preceding claims in a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one derivative of dibenzoylmethane as defined in any of the preceding claims for the purpose of improving the effectiveness of said composition against UV-A.5 radiation.