FR2883172A1 - Cosmetic process to smooth the wrinkles and ridules and/or to decrease their visibility, comprises topical application, on a wrinkled human skin, of a composition comprising geminated surface-active agent - Google Patents
Cosmetic process to smooth the wrinkles and ridules and/or to decrease their visibility, comprises topical application, on a wrinkled human skin, of a composition comprising geminated surface-active agent Download PDFInfo
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- FR2883172A1 FR2883172A1 FR0550660A FR0550660A FR2883172A1 FR 2883172 A1 FR2883172 A1 FR 2883172A1 FR 0550660 A FR0550660 A FR 0550660A FR 0550660 A FR0550660 A FR 0550660A FR 2883172 A1 FR2883172 A1 FR 2883172A1
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- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
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- HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H trimagnesium;(2r)-2-[(1s)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-2h-furan-5-one;diphosphate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
Abstract
Description
La présente invention se rapporte à un procédé cosmétique pour lisser lesThe present invention relates to a cosmetic process for smoothing
rides et ridules et/ou diminuer leur visibilité, comprenant l'application topique sur une peau humaine ridée d'une composition renfermant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, un tensioactif géminé de structure donnée. fine lines and wrinkles and / or decrease their visibility, comprising the topical application on wrinkled human skin of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a geminate surfactant of given structure.
Elle se rapporte également à l'utilisation cosmétique de ce tensioactif en tant qu'agent anti-rides. It also relates to the cosmetic use of this surfactant as an anti-wrinkle agent.
Les femmes, voire même les hommes, ont tendance actuellement à vouloir paraître jeunes le plus longtemps possible et cherchent par conséquent à estomper les marques du vieillissement de la peau, qui se traduisent notamment par des rides et des ridules. A ce sujet, la publicité et la mode font état de produits destinés à garder le plus longtemps possible une peau éclatante et sans ride, marques d'une peau jeune, d'autant plus que l'aspect physique agit sur le psychisme et/ou sur le moral. Women, even men, tend to want to look young as long as possible and therefore seek to fade the marks of aging skin, which result in particular in the form of wrinkles and fine lines. In this regard, advertising and fashion mention products intended to keep as long as possible a glowing skin without wrinkles, marks of a young skin, especially as the physical aspect acts on the psyche and / or on morale.
Jusqu'à présent, on traitait les rides et les ridules à l'aide de produits cosmétiques contenant des actifs agissant sur la peau, par exemple en améliorant son renouvellement cellulaire ou encore en favorisant la synthèse, ou en prévenant la dégradation, des fibres élastiques qui composent le tissu cutané. Up to now, wrinkles and fine lines have been treated with cosmetic products containing active agents acting on the skin, for example by improving its cell renewal or by promoting the synthesis or preventing the degradation of elastic fibers. which make up the cutaneous tissue.
Ces produits ont toutefois l'inconvénient de n'être efficaces pour le traitement des rides qu'après un certain temps d'application. Or, on cherche de plus en plus à disposer de produits anti-rides à un effet immédiat. These products however have the disadvantage of being effective for the treatment of wrinkles after a certain time of application. However, it is increasingly sought to have anti-wrinkle products for immediate effect.
A cette fin, il a été proposé depuis quelques années des agents à effet tenseur qui lissent immédiatement après application les rides et ridules et contribuent à atténuer les marques de fatigue. Ces composés agissent en formant un film qui, au séchage, provoque la rétraction du stratum corneum, la couche cornée superficielle de l'épiderme. To this end, it has been proposed for some years tensor effect agents which smooth immediately after application the lines and wrinkles and help to reduce the marks of fatigue. These compounds act to form a film which upon drying causes the stratum corneum, the superficial stratum corneum of the epidermis, to shrink.
Parmi ces agents tenseurs, il a été proposé d'utiliser des protéines végétales. Toutefois, celles-ci posent des problèmes de formulation (perte de viscosité, problèmes de stabilité) et ne sont pas toujours très cosmétiques, en ce sens qu'elles confèrent un toucher collant aux compositions les contenant, voire produisent une odeur et/ou une couleur désagréables. Among these tensors, it has been proposed to use vegetable proteins. However, these pose problems of formulation (loss of viscosity, stability problems) and are not always very cosmetic, in that they confer a tacky feel to the compositions containing them, or even produce an odor and / or unpleasant color.
II a par ailleurs été proposé dans la demande EP-0 944 381 d'utiliser comme agents tenseurs des latex constitués d'homo- et copolymères acryliques. Toutefois, parmi ces polymères, tous ne permettent pas la réalisation de compositions cosmétiques stables, en particulier lorsque ces compositions sont formulées sous forme d'émulsions. Des règles de formulation contraignantes doivent dans ce cas être respectées. It has also been proposed in application EP-0 944 381 to use, as tensors, latices consisting of acrylic homo- and copolymers. However, not all of these polymers make it possible to produce stable cosmetic compositions, in particular when these compositions are formulated in the form of emulsions. In this case, binding rules of formulation must be respected.
D'autres latex tenseurs ont été proposés dans la demande EP-1 038 519. Il s'agit de polymères siliconés greffés comprenant une portion polysiloxane et une portion constituée d'une chaîne organique non siliconée, l'une des deux portions constituant la chaîne principale du polymère et l'autre étant greffée sur ladite chaîne principale. Ces polymères ne sont pas très faciles à formuler non plus, dans la mesure où ils doivent être chauffés à environ 80 C en présence d'hydroxyde de sodium pendant une heure, avant d'être mélangés aux autres constituants de la phase grasse d'une composition cosmétique. Other latex tensors have been proposed in application EP-1 038 519. They are grafted silicone polymers comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the chain. of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain. These polymers are not very easy to formulate either, insofar as they must be heated to about 80 ° C. in the presence of sodium hydroxide for one hour, before being mixed with the other constituents of the fatty phase of a polymer. cosmetic composition.
II a en outre été proposé d'utiliser des colloïdes inorganiques comme agents tenseurs, tels que des dispersions colloïdales de silice. Bien que ces agents présentent un effet tenseur très satisfaisant, ils nécessitent d'être formulés en présence d'huiles volatiles et non volatiles dans un certain rapport en poids si l'on veut éviter la formation d'un dépôt blanchâtre sur la peau après application. En outre, leur effet tenseur en émulsion est amoindri en présence de glycérine qui est un constituant très usuel des compositions cosmétiques. It has furthermore been proposed to use inorganic colloids as tensors, such as colloidal silica dispersions. Although these agents have a very satisfactory tensor effect, they need to be formulated in the presence of volatile and non-volatile oils in a certain ratio by weight if it is desired to avoid the formation of a whitish deposit on the skin after application. . In addition, their emulsion tightening effect is reduced in the presence of glycerine which is a very common constituent of the cosmetic compositions.
II reste donc le besoin de disposer de composés ayant un effet anti-rides immédiatement perceptible, qui soient faciles à formuler sous forme de compositions stables et qui présentent de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques rendant ces compositions agréables à utiliser. There remains therefore the need for compounds having an immediately perceptible anti-wrinkle effect, which are easy to formulate in the form of stable compositions and which have good cosmetic properties making these compositions pleasant to use.
Or, la Demanderesse a découvert, de manière surprenante et inattendue, que certains tensioactifs géminés permettaient de satisfaire ce besoin. En particulier, ces composés permettent non seulement de lisser efficacement la peau, et de masquer les rides et ridules et les signes de fatigue, mais ils sont également faciles à mettre en oeuvre par simple mélange à chaud avec les constituants de la phase grasse d'une composition cosmétique, et présentent en outre des propriétés émulsionnantes. Ces tensioactifs permettent d'obtenir ainsi facilement des compositions stables et ayant un bon effet anti-rides immédiat. Ces tensioactifs géminés ont par ailleurs des propriétés hydratantes améliorant leur confort d'utilisation. Now, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that certain gemini surfactants made it possible to satisfy this need. In particular, these compounds not only make it possible to effectively smooth the skin, and mask wrinkles and fine lines and signs of fatigue, but they are also easy to implement by simple hot mixing with the constituents of the fatty phase of a cosmetic composition, and furthermore have emulsifying properties. These surfactants make it easy to obtain stable compositions and having a good immediate anti-wrinkle effect. These gemini surfactants also have moisturizing properties improving their comfort of use.
Par "tensioactif géminé", on entend dans le cadre de la présente invention des 5 composés comportant deux têtes hydrophiles et deux queues hydrophobes reliées entre elles par un espaceur. In the context of the present invention, the term "geminated surfactant" is intended to mean compounds comprising two hydrophilic heads and two hydrophobic tails interconnected by a spacer.
Ces tensioactifs ont déjà été décrits comme étant utiles dans des compositions cosmétiques (WO 96/14926), en particulier dans des compositions de nettoyage des cheveux ou de la peau (EP-0 915 945), ou dans des concentrés perlescents utilisés dans des compositions de nettoyage, éventuellement en association avec hydroxyacides et des vitamines telles que le rétinol ou le tocophérol ou leurs dérivés tels que le diascorbyl palmitate (WO 01/74979). Il a en outre été suggéré d'inclure un tensioactif géminé de ce type (précisément, le dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate) en tant qu'agent émulsionnant dans la phase grasse d'une composition à base de trétinoïne destinée à réparer la peau photo-endommagée (US 2002/0197285, Exemple 2). These surfactants have already been described as being useful in cosmetic compositions (WO 96/14926), in particular in hair or skin cleansing compositions (EP-0 915 945), or in pearl concentrates used in compositions cleaning, optionally in combination with hydroxy acids and vitamins such as retinol or tocopherol or their derivatives such as diascorbyl palmitate (WO 01/74979). It has furthermore been suggested to include a geminate surfactant of this type (specifically, dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate) as an emulsifier in the fat phase of a tretinoin-based composition for repairing the photo-skin. damaged (US 2002/0197285, Example 2).
Toutefois, à la connaissance de la Demanderesse, il n'a encore jamais été suggéré 20 que ces tensioactifs avaient la capacité de tendre la peau et que l'on pouvait ainsi envisager de les utiliser pour lisser les rides. However, to the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been suggested that these surfactants have the ability to stretch the skin and that one could thus consider using them to smooth wrinkles.
La présente invention a donc pour objet un procédé cosmétique pour lisser les rides et ridules et/ou diminuer leur visibilité, comprenant l'application topique sur une peau humaine ridée d'une composition renfermant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un tensioactif géminé de formule (I) : The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic process for smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles and / or reducing their visibility, comprising the topical application to wrinkled human skin of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one geminated surfactant. of formula (I):
OO
NN\R ln 1 ' Y Xl (1) dans laquelle:Wherein X1 (1), wherein:
OO
R, et R3 désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un radical alkyle ayant de 1 à 25 atomes de carbone; R2 désigne un espaceur constitué d'une chaîne alkylène linéaire ou ramifiée ayant de 1 5 à 12 atomes de carbone; X et Y désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un groupement (C2H4O)a (C3HGO)bZ où É Z désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical -CH2-COOM, SO3M, - P(0)(OM)2, C2H4-SO3M, C3H6-SO3M ou CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, où M, M' représentent H ou un ion alcalin ou alcalino-terreux ou ammonium ou alcanolammonium, É avade0à15, É bvade0àIo,et É la somme de a + b va de 1 à25;et nvade1à10. R 3 and R 3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group (C2H4O) a (C3HGO) bZ where E Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, SO3M, -P (0) (OM ) 2, C2H4-SO3M, C3H6-SO3M or CH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH, where M, M 'are H or an alkaline or alkaline-earth ion or ammonium or alkanolammonium, É avade0 to 15, Ébvade0àIo, and É the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25 and nvade1 to 10.
La Demanderesse a découvert que les tensioactifs de formule (I) permettaient de lisser les rides et de les rendre moins visibles, sans tiraillement de la peau et en la nourrissant, et sans qu'il soit nécessaire de respecter des règles de formulation particulières. The Applicant has discovered that the surfactants of formula (I) make it possible to smooth wrinkles and make them less visible, without tightness of the skin and by nourishing it, and without it being necessary to adhere to particular formulation rules.
La présente invention a donc aussi pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique du tensioactif 25 géminé ci-dessus en tant qu'agent anti-rides. The present invention therefore also relates to the cosmetic use of the gemini surfactant above as an anti-wrinkle agent.
Le tensioactif géminé utilisé selon l'invention est de préférence tel que chacun des groupements RI-CO- et R3-CO- comprend de 8 à 20 atomes de carbone, et désigne de préférence un reste d'acides gras de coco (comprenant majoritairement de l'acide laurique et de l'acide myristique). The geminate surfactant used according to the invention is preferably such that each of the RI-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).
En outre, ce tensioactif est de préférence tel que pour chacun des radicaux X et Y, la somme de a et b a une valeur moyenne allant de 10 à 20 et est de préférence égale à 15. Un groupement préféré pour Z est le groupement SO3M ou M est préférence un ion alcalin tel qu'un ion sodium. In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and ba has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the SO3M group or M is preferably an alkaline ion such as sodium ion.
L'espaceur R2 est avantageusement constitué d'une chaîne alkylène linéaire en C1-C3, et de préférence d'une chaîne éthylène. The spacer R2 is advantageously constituted of a linear alkylene chain C1-C3, and preferably an ethylene chain.
Enfin, n est avantageusement égal à 1. Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
Un tensioactif de ce type est en particulier celui identifié par le nom INCI: sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, ayant la structure suivante: O Q RCI NCH CH N CR NaO3SO(OCH2CHil. (CH2CH2O)nOSO3Na où n a une valeur moyenne de 15 et R représente un reste d'acides gras de coco. Ce tensioactif est disponible dans le commerce auprès de la société SASOL, sous forme de mélange avec d'autres tensioactifs et éventuellement des co-émulsionnants, sous les dénominations commerciales Ceralution C, Ceralution F et Ceralution H. Ce tensioactif géminé représente de 3 à 50% du poids de ces mélanges. A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: ## STR2 ## where n has an average value of 15 and R represents a coconut fatty acid residue This surfactant is commercially available from SASOL, in the form of a mixture with other surfactants and optionally co-emulsifiers, under the trade names Ceralution C, Ceralution F and Ceralution H. This gemini surfactant represents from 3 to 50% of the weight of these mixtures.
De préférence, le tensioactif géminé selon l'invention est utilisé en mélange avec (a) un ester d'acide gras en C6-C22 (de préférence en C14C20 tel qu'un stéarate) et de glycéryle, (b) un diester d'acide gras en C6-C22 (de préférence en C14-C20 tel qu'un stéarate) et d'acide citrique et de glycérol, et (c) un alcool gras en C10-C30 (de préférence l'alcool béhénylique). Preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention is used in admixture with (a) a C 6 -C 22 fatty acid ester (preferably a C 14 C 20 such as a stearate) and glyceryl ester, (b) a diester of C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably C14-C20 such as stearate) and citric acid and glycerol, and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).
Plus préférentiellement, le tensioactif géminé selon l'invention représente de 10 à 20% en poids, et avantageusement 15% en poids; l'ester d'acide gras en C6-C22 et de glycéryle représente de 30 à 40% en poids, avantageusement 35% en poids; le diester d'acide gras en C6-C22 et d'acide citrique et de glycérol représente de 10 à 20% en poids, avantageusement 15% en poids; et l'alcool gras en C10-C30 représente de 30 à 40% en poids, avantageusement 35% en poids, par rapport au poids total du mélange ci-dessus. More preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention represents from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the fatty acid C 6 -C 22 and glyceryl ester represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the C 6 -C 22 fatty acid diester and citric acid and glycerol represent from 10 to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C 10 -C 30 fatty alcohol represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture above.
En variante, le tensioactif géminé selon l'invention peut être utilisé en mélange avec un tensioactif anionique tel qu'un ester d'acide laurique de lauryl lactate de sodium. Dans ce cas, le tensioactif géminé représente de préférence de 30 à 50% en poids, et le tensioactif anionique représente de 50 à 70% en poids, par rapport au poids total du mélange. Alternatively, the geminate surfactant according to the invention may be used in admixture with an anionic surfactant such as a lauryl lauryl lactate lauric acid ester. In this case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.
La quantité de tensioactif géminé incorporée dans la composition selon l'invention peut varier dans une large mesure en fonction de l'effet recherché. Pour donner un ordre de grandeur, la composition peut renfermer de 0,1 à 5 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,1 à 1 % en poids de tensioactif géminé, par rapport au poids total de la composition. The amount of geminate surfactant incorporated in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent depending on the desired effect. To give an order of magnitude, the composition may contain from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight of gemini surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cette composition est généralement adaptée à une application topique sur la peau et comprend donc généralement un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire compatible avec la peau et/ou ses phanères. II s'agit de préférence d'un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire qui présente une couleur, une odeur et un toucher agréables et qui ne génère pas d'inconforts inacceptables (picotements, tiraillements, rougeurs), susceptibles de détourner la consommatrice d'utiliser cette composition. This composition is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say one which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer from using this composition.
Cela est particulièrement important lorsque la composition utilisée selon l'invention est adaptée et destinée à être appliquée autour des yeux, ce qui constitue un mode de réalisation avantageux de la présente invention. This is particularly important when the composition used according to the invention is adapted and intended to be applied around the eyes, which constitutes an advantageous embodiment of the present invention.
La composition selon l'invention peut en outre se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques classiquement utilisées pour une application topique et notamment sous forme de dispersions du type lotion ou gel, d'émulsions de consistance liquide ou semiliquide du type lait, obtenues par dispersion d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse (H/E) ou inversement (E/H), ou de suspensions ou émulsions de consistance molle, semi-solide ou solide du type crème ou gel, ou encore d'émulsions multiples (E/H/E ou H/E/H), ou de dispersions cirelphase aqueuse. Ces compositions sont préparées selon les méthodes usuelles. The composition according to the invention may also be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of lotion or gel type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), or aqueous dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, la composition se présente sous forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau (HIE). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (HIE).
Comme huiles utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer: - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène; - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone ou encore, par exemple, les huiles végétales telles que l'huile d'amande d'abricot et l'huile de beurre de karité ; - les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R'COOR2 et R'OR2 dans laquelle R' représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone; les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, l'isohexadecane, l'isododecane, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de Parléam ; - des huiles essentielles naturelles ou synthétiques; - les alcools gras ramifiés ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'octyldodécanol 15; - les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912; - les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaîne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que le cyclohexasiloxane et le cyclopentasiloxane; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl- siloxanes, les diphényl-diméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthylsiloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes; et - leurs mélanges. As oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms or else, for example, vegetable oils such as apricot kernel oil and oil shea butter; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as oil from Parleam; - natural or synthetic essential oils; branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol 15; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and - their mixtures.
Les autres corps gras pouvant être présents dans la phase huileuse sont par exemple les acides gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme l'acide stéarique, l'acide laurique, l'acide palmitique et l'acide oléique; les alcools gras linéaires tels que les alcools cétylique et/ou stéarylique; les corps gras pâteux comme la lanoline; les cires; et les gommes telles que les gommes de silicone (diméthiconol). The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; linear fatty alcohols such as cetyl and / or stearyl alcohols; pasty fatty substances such as lanolin; waxes; and gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol).
Ces corps gras peuvent être choisis de manière variée par l'homme du métier afin de préparer une composition ayant les propriétés, par exemple de consistance ou de texture, souhaitées. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
Selon une forme d'exécution préférée, la composition utilisée selon l'invention comprend au moins une cire. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one wax.
Par "cire" au sens de la présente invention, on entend un composé gras lipophile, solide à température ambiante (25 C), à changement d'état solide/liquide réversible, ayant une température de fusion supérieure à 30 C et pouvant aller jusqu'à 200 C, une dureté de préférence supérieure à 0,5 MPa, et présentant à l'état solide une organisation cristalline anisotrope. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than 30 ° C. and up to at 200 ° C., a hardness of preferably greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.
La dureté de la cire est déterminée par la mesure de la force en compression mesurée à 20 C à l'aide du texturomètre vendu sous la dénomination TA-XT2i par la société RHEO, équipé d'un cylindre en inox d'un diamètre de 2 mm se déplaçant à la vitesse de mesure de 0,1 mm/s, et pénétrant dans la cire à une profondeur de pénétration de 0,3 mm. Pour effectuer la mesure de dureté, la cire est fondue à une température égale au point de fusion de la cire + 20 C. La cire fondue est coulée dans un récipient de 30 mm de diamètre et de 20 mm de profondeur. La cire est recristallisée à température ambiante (25 C) pendant 24 heures, puis la cire est conservée pendant au moins 1 heure à 20 C avant d'effectuer la mesure de dureté. La valeur de la dureté est la force de compression mesurée divisée par la surface du cylindre du texturomètre en contact avec la cire. The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To perform the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 C. The melted wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours and then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement. The value of the hardness is the measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
Les cires, au sens de la demande, peuvent être hydrocarbonées, siliconées et/ou fluorées, comportant éventuellement des fonctions ester ou hydroxyle. The waxes, in the sense of the application, may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions.
La cire utilisée dans cette forme d'exécution de l'invention peut notamment être choisie parmi la cire de Carnauba, la cire d'abeille, la cire de Candelilla, les cires microcristallines, les ozokérites, l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée, les cires de polyéthylène telles que celle vendue sous les dénominations "PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE" par la société New Phase Technologies, les cires de polyméthylène, les cires de silicone comme les poly alkyle C24-C28 méthyl dimethyl siloxane telle que celle vendue sous la dénomination "ABIL WAX 9810" par la société GOLDSCHMIDT, le beurre de palme, le stéarate d'alkyle en C20-C40 vendu sous la dénomination "KESTER WAX K82H" par la société Kester Keunen, le benzoate de stéaryle, la cire de Shellac, et leurs mélanges. The wax used in this embodiment of the invention may especially be chosen from carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, and waxes. polyethylene such as that sold under the names "PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE" by the company New Phase Technologies, polymethylene waxes, silicone waxes such as polyalkyl C24-C28 alkyl dimethyl siloxane such as that sold under the name "ABIL WAX" GOLDSCHMIDT, palm butter, C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the name "Kester WAX K82H" by Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, Shellac wax, and mixtures thereof.
La cire peut être présente dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,5 % à 10 % en poids, et de préférence allant de 1 % à 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. The wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition utilisée selon l'invention peut en outre contenir divers adjuvants couramment utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique, tels que des charges; des épaississants et/ou gélifiants tels que les homo- et copolymères d'acide acrylique, les homo- et copolymères d'acrylamide et/ou d'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropane sulfonique (AMPS) et la gomme de xanthane; des conservateurs; des séquestrants; des colorants; des parfums. The composition used according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as fillers; thickeners and / or gelling agents such as homo- and copolymers of acrylic acid, homo- and copolymers of acrylamide and / or 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) and xanthan gum; conservatives; sequestering agents; dyes; perfumes.
Comme charges, on peut citer par exemple, les particules de polyamide (Nylon) sous forme sphérique ou sous forme de microfibres; les microsphères de polyméthacrylate de méthyle; les poudres de copolymère éthylène-acrylate; les poudres expansées telles que les microsphères creuses et notamment, les microsphères formées d'un terpolymère de chlorure de vinylidène, d'acrylonitrile et de méthacrylate et commercialisées sous la dénomination EXPANCEL; les poudres de matériaux organiques naturels tels que les poudres d'amidon, notamment d'amidons de maïs, de blé ou de riz, réticulés ou non, telles que les poudres d'amidon réticulé par l'anhydride octénylsuccinique; les microbilles de résine de silicone telles que celles commercialisées sous la dénomination TOSPEARL par la société Toshiba Silicone; la silice; les oxydes métalliques tels que le dioxyde de titane ou l'oxyde de zinc; le mica; et leurs mélanges. Examples of fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide particles (nylon) in spherical form or in the form of microfibers; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and especially microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name Expancel; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; silica; metal oxides such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide; mica; and their mixtures.
Bien entendu, l'homme du métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés additionnels et/ou leur quantité de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses de la composition selon l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. .
Pour renforcer les effets anti-âge de la composition utilisée selon l'invention, il pourra 35 être avantageux d'introduire dans cette composition au moins un composé choisi parmi : les agents desquamants; les agents hydratants; les agents dépigmentants ou propigmentants; les agents anti-glycation; les inhibiteurs de NO-synthase; les agents stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation; les agents stimulant la prolifération des fibroblastes et/ou des kératinocytes ou stimulant la différenciation des kératinocytes; les agents dermodécontractants et/ou myorelaxants; des agents tenseurs; les agents anti-pollution et/ou anti-radicalaires; les agents agissant sur la microcirculation; les agents agissant sur le métabolisme énergétique des cellules; et leurs mélanges. To enhance the anti-aging effects of the composition used according to the invention, it may be advantageous to introduce into this composition at least one compound chosen from: desquamating agents; moisturizing agents; depigmenting or propigmenting agents; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; dermodecontracting agents and / or muscle relaxants; tensors; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents; agents acting on microcirculation; agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells; and their mixtures.
Des exemples de tels composés additionnels sont: l'acide ascorbique et ses dérivés tels que l'ascorbyl phosphate de magnésium et le glucoside d'ascorbyle; le tocophérol et ses dérivés tels que l'acétate de tocophéryle; l'acide nicotinique et ses précurseurs tels que la nicotinamide; l'ubiquinone; le glutathion et ses précurseurs tels que l'acide L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique; les extraits de plantes et notamment les protéines végétales et leurs hydrolysats, ainsi que les phytohormones; les extraits marins tels que les extraits d'algues; les extraits bactériens; les sapogénines telles que la diosgénine et les extraits de Wild Yam en contenant; les céramides; les ahydroxyacides; les [i-hydroxyacides, tels que l'acide salicylique et l'acide n-octanoyl-5salicylique; le resvératrol; les oligopeptides et pseudodipeptides et leurs dérivés acylés; les sels de manganèse et de magnésium, en particulier les gluconates; l'adénosine; et leurs mélanges. Examples of such additional compounds are: ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; plant extracts and especially vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates, as well as phytohormones; marine extracts such as seaweed extracts; bacterial extracts; sapogenins such as diosgenin and Wild Yam extracts containing it; ceramides; ahydroxyacids; β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; resveratrol; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives; manganese and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates; adenosine; and their mixtures.
On préfère toutefois que la composition mise en oeuvre selon l'invention ne renferme pas de rétinoïde. However, it is preferred that the composition used according to the invention does not contain a retinoid.
L'invention sera maintenant illustrée par les exemples non limitatifs suivants. Dans ces exemples, les quantités sont indiquées en pourcentage pondéral, sauf indication contraire. The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. In these examples, the amounts are in percent by weight unless otherwise indicated.
Exemple: Démonstration de l'effet anti-rides in vivo Protocole: On a préparé une émulsion HIE ayant la composition A ci-dessous, de façon classique pour l'homme du métier. Example: Demonstration of the anti-wrinkle effect in vivo Protocol: An HIE emulsion having the composition A below was prepared, conventionally for the skilled person.
Ceralution H de SASOL 5.000/0 Epaississants I gélifiants non siliconés 0. 75 % Glycérine 7.00% Isohexadécane 6.00 % Polydiméthylsiloxane oxyéthyléné (16 0E) 3.00 % à extrémités methoxy Mélange d'hexyldécanol et laurate d'hexadécyle 2.00% Cire de polyméthylène 2.00 % Huiles et gommes de silicone 3.50% Charges 3.25 % Parfum qs Conservateurs qs Eau qsp 100 % *contenant 15% en poids d'éthyldiamido-N-cocoyl sulfonate de sodium éthoxylé (15 0E), 35% en poids de stérate de glycéryle, 15% en poids de diester d'acides citrique et stéarique de 20 glycérol et 35% en poids d'alcool béhénylique. Cerulution H of SASOL 5.000 / 0 Thickeners I non-silicone gelling agents 0. 75% Glycerin 7.00% Isohexadecane 6.00% Polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated (16 0E) 3.00% with methoxy ends Mix of hexyldecanol and hexadecyl laurate 2.00% Polymethylene wax 2.00% Oils and silicone gums 3.50% Fillers 3.25% Perfume qs Preservatives qs Water qs 100% * containing 15% by weight of ethoxylated ethyldiamido-N-cocoyl sulfonate (15%), 35% by weight of glyceryl stearate, 15% by weight of citric and stearic acid diester of glycerol and 35% by weight of behenyl alcohol.
On a préparé en parallèle une composition B ne contenant pas de Ceralution H mais contenant 1.75% en poids d'alcool béhénylique, 0.75% en poids de diester d'acides citrique et stéarique de glycérol et 1.75% en poids de stéarate de glycéryle. A composition B containing no Ceralution H but containing 1.75% by weight of behenyl alcohol, 0.75% by weight of citric acid and glycerol stearic acid diester and 1.75% by weight of glyceryl stearate was prepared in parallel.
La seule différence entre ces formules résidait donc dans la présence, dans la formule A, d'un tensioactif géminé selon l'invention. The only difference between these formulas thus resides in the presence, in formula A, of a geminate surfactant according to the invention.
Ces compositions ont été appliquées à raison de 2 mg de crème par cm2 de peau sur un panel de 12 femmes à peau atone présentant des rides moyennes ou légères sur le contour de l'oeil (patte d'oie) et la paupière inférieure. Le test a été réalisé en hémi- visage, c'est-à-dire que chacune des compositions A et B a été appliquée sur un demi- visage distinct du même sujet. On a ensuite scoré au Chromasphère (caméra profil SEI-M-0181-ANIM-09), sur une échelle allant de -3 à +3, la différence D de visibilité des rides sur chacun des demi-visages, dix minutes après l'application, par comparaison avec leur visibilité avant application. On a alors calculé la moyenne Dm des résultats obtenus. These compositions were applied at a rate of 2 mg of cream per cm 2 of skin on a panel of 12 women with slender skin with medium or light wrinkles on the eye contour (crow's feet) and the lower eyelid. The test was performed in half face, that is, each of compositions A and B was applied to a separate half-face of the same subject. The Chromosphere (SEI-M-0181-ANIM-09 profile camera) was then scored, on a scale of -3 to +3, the difference D of visibility of the wrinkles on each of the half-faces, ten minutes after application, compared with their visibility before application. The average Dm of the results obtained was then calculated.
Résultats: La composition A diminue significativement la visibilité des rides sur la paupière inférieure (Dm = -0.88 0.83; p = 0. 004) et se différencie significativement de la composition B qui n'a pas d'effet significatif sur la visibilité des rides (Dm = -0.46 0.75; p = 0.06). Results: Composition A significantly reduces the visibility of wrinkles on the lower eyelid (Dm = -0.88 0.83, p = 0.004) and is significantly different from composition B which has no significant effect on the visibility of wrinkles. (Dm = -0.46 0.75, p = 0.06).
Claims (22)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR0550660A FR2883172B1 (en) | 2005-03-15 | 2005-03-15 | USE OF GEMINE SURFACTANT AS ANTI-WRINKLE AGENT |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR0550660A FR2883172B1 (en) | 2005-03-15 | 2005-03-15 | USE OF GEMINE SURFACTANT AS ANTI-WRINKLE AGENT |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| FR2883172A1 true FR2883172A1 (en) | 2006-09-22 |
| FR2883172B1 FR2883172B1 (en) | 2009-01-30 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR0550660A Active FR2883172B1 (en) | 2005-03-15 | 2005-03-15 | USE OF GEMINE SURFACTANT AS ANTI-WRINKLE AGENT |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR2883172B1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US8425883B2 (en) * | 2006-02-21 | 2013-04-23 | Coty Prestige Lancaster Group Gmbh | Cosmetic sun protection product based on W/Si-emulsions |
| FR2981571A1 (en) * | 2011-10-21 | 2013-04-26 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES AND SILICONE OILS |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20020197285A1 (en) * | 2001-04-06 | 2002-12-26 | Bonda Craig A. | Diesters or polyesters of naphthalene dicarboxylic acid as solubilizer/stabilizer for retinoids |
| US20040247543A1 (en) * | 2001-09-21 | 2004-12-09 | Playtex Products, Inc. | Sunscreen compositions |
-
2005
- 2005-03-15 FR FR0550660A patent/FR2883172B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20020197285A1 (en) * | 2001-04-06 | 2002-12-26 | Bonda Craig A. | Diesters or polyesters of naphthalene dicarboxylic acid as solubilizer/stabilizer for retinoids |
| US20040247543A1 (en) * | 2001-09-21 | 2004-12-09 | Playtex Products, Inc. | Sunscreen compositions |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US8425883B2 (en) * | 2006-02-21 | 2013-04-23 | Coty Prestige Lancaster Group Gmbh | Cosmetic sun protection product based on W/Si-emulsions |
| FR2981571A1 (en) * | 2011-10-21 | 2013-04-26 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES AND SILICONE OILS |
| WO2013057113A3 (en) * | 2011-10-21 | 2013-06-27 | L'oreal | Cosmetic oil- in- water emulsion comprising a gemini surfactant, a hydrophobic silica and a silicone elastomer |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2883172B1 (en) | 2009-01-30 |
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