FR2853530A1 - Restorative shampoo for brittle, damaged or sensitive hair contains a mixture of amino-acids of vegetable origin identical with those in human hair, plus D-panthenol and surfactants - Google Patents
Restorative shampoo for brittle, damaged or sensitive hair contains a mixture of amino-acids of vegetable origin identical with those in human hair, plus D-panthenol and surfactants Download PDFInfo
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- FR2853530A1 FR2853530A1 FR0304325A FR0304325A FR2853530A1 FR 2853530 A1 FR2853530 A1 FR 2853530A1 FR 0304325 A FR0304325 A FR 0304325A FR 0304325 A FR0304325 A FR 0304325A FR 2853530 A1 FR2853530 A1 FR 2853530A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
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Abstract
Description
ll
SHAMPOOING REPARATEUR POUR CHEVEUXHAIR REPAIR SHAMPOO
La présente invention concerne d'une manière générale une composition capillaire détergente, sous forme d'un shampooing, 5 convenant plus particulièrement aux cheveux dits fragilisés, abîmés ou sensibilisés. The present invention relates generally to a detergent hair composition, in the form of a shampoo, more particularly suitable for so-called weakened, damaged or sensitized hair.
En particulier, l'invention concerne une composition comportant l'association, en solution aqueuse, d'un mélange d'acides aminés 10 libres, d'origine végétale, identiques aux acides aminés présents dans les cheveux humains, de D-panthénol et, au titre d'agents nettoyants, d'au moins un tensio-actif anionique et d'au moins un tensio-actif amphotère. In particular, the invention relates to a composition comprising the association, in aqueous solution, of a mixture of free amino acids, of plant origin, identical to the amino acids present in human hair, of D-panthenol and, as cleaning agents, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.
Pour le nettoyage des cheveux, l'utilisation de compositions capillaires détergentes contenant des agents tensio-actifs anioniques seuls ou mélangés à des tensio-actifs amphotères est courante. For hair cleaning, the use of detergent hair compositions containing anionic surfactants alone or mixed with amphoteric surfactants is common.
On constate cependant que, dans le cas de cheveux fragilisés ou abîmés par des traitements capillaires comme des défrisants, des permanentes ou des colorations, ou par l'effet d'agents atmosphériques, ces compositions laissent une impression de cheveux rèches après le lavage et le séchage, avec une moindre 25 tenue mécanique, davantage d'électricité statique et un aspect terne. Il est connu que l'ajout d'agents conditionneurs tels que des polymères cationiques et/ou des silicones non volatiles, insolubles dans l'eau et/ou des dérivés de ces silicones à ces compositions permet d'obtenir un état plus lisse des cheveux 30 après le lavage. Cependant, l'avantage cosmétique mentionné s'accompagne souvent d'effets indésirables comme un alourdissement des cheveux après plusieurs applications et une insuffisance de brillance. It is noted however that, in the case of hair weakened or damaged by hair treatments such as hair straighteners, perms or colorings, or by the effect of atmospheric agents, these compositions leave an impression of coarse hair after washing and drying, with less mechanical strength, more static electricity and a dull appearance. It is known that the addition of conditioning agents such as cationic polymers and / or non-volatile silicones, insoluble in water and / or derivatives of these silicones to these compositions makes it possible to obtain a smoother state of the hair. 30 after washing. However, the cosmetic advantage mentioned is often accompanied by undesirable effects such as a weighing down of the hair after several applications and insufficient gloss.
L'invention consiste donc à proposer un shampooing conférant aux cheveux fragilisés, abîmés et/ou sensibilisés des propriétés de tenue, de brillance, de douceur et de souplesse améliorées. The invention therefore consists in proposing a shampoo which gives fragile, damaged and / or sensitized hair improved hold, shine, softness and suppleness properties.
Ainsi selon l'invention, il est proposé une nouvelle composition capillaire détergente comprenant en particulier l'association, en solution aqueuse, d'un mélange d'acides aminés libres, d'origine 5 végétale, identiques aux acides aminés présents dans les cheveux humains, et de D-Panthénol. Thus according to the invention, a new detergent hair composition is proposed, comprising in particular the association, in aqueous solution, of a mixture of free amino acids, of plant origin, identical to the amino acids present in human hair. , and D-Panthenol.
L'utilisation de cette association dans un support tel qu'un shampooing, testée sur de nombreux sujets présentant des cheveux 10 fragilisés, abîmés et/ou sensibilisés par les traitement ou conditions sus-citées, a permis de constater rapidement l'obtention de cheveux souples et brillants avec un toucher doux, propriétés nettement améliorées par rapport à celles obtenues avec l'un ou l'autre des composants de cette association utilisé 15 seul. The use of this combination in a support such as a shampoo, tested on many subjects having weakened, damaged and / or sensitized hair by the abovementioned treatment or conditions, made it possible to quickly observe the obtaining of hair. flexible and shiny with a soft touch, properties significantly improved compared to those obtained with one or other of the components of this combination used alone.
Le mélange d'acides aminés de la présente invention est constitué à partir d'acides aminés libres, d'origine végétale, identiques aux acides aminés présents dans le cheveu: Acide Glutamique, Arginine, Proline, Acide Aspartique, Leucine, Phénylalanine, Sérine, Lysine, Glycine, Valine, Tyrosine, IsoLeucine, Alanine, Thréonine, Histidine, Méthionine, Cystine. The mixture of amino acids of the present invention consists of free amino acids, of vegetable origin, identical to the amino acids present in the hair: Glutamic acid, Arginine, Proline, Aspartic acid, Leucine, Phenylalanine, Serine, Lysine, Glycine, Valine, Tyrosine, IsoLeucine, Alanine, Threonine, Histidine, Methionine, Cystine.
Ces acides aminés proviennent de l'hydrolyse de protéines de germe de blé, de soja et de maïs. Leur faible poids moléculaire 25 leur permet de pénétrer le cheveu, augmentant sa capacité à retenir l'eau et lui conférant davantage de brillance, de souplesse et de tenue. These amino acids come from the hydrolysis of wheat germ, soybean and corn proteins. Their low molecular weight allows them to penetrate the hair, increasing its capacity to retain water and giving it more shine, suppleness and hold.
Selon l'invention, la composition moyenne du mélange de ces 30 acides aminés, exprimée en % en poids, est la suivante - Acide Glutamique entre 20 et 35% - Arginine entre 15 et 20% - Proline entre 8 et 14% - Acide Aspartique entre 7 et 12% - Leucine: entre 3 et 6% - Phénylalanine entre 3 et 5% - Sérine: - Lysine: - Glycine: - Valine: - Tyrosine: - Iso-Leucine: - Alanine: - Thréonine: - Histidine: 10 - Méthionine: - Cystine: entre entre entre entre entre entre entre entre entre entre entre 3 et 5% 3 et 4,5% 2 et 4% 2 et 4% 2 et 4% 1,5 et 3% 1,5 et 3% 1,5 et 3% 1 et 2% 0,5 et 1,5% 0,2 et 0,8% Une composition préférée de ce mélange est la suivante: Acide Glutamique - Arginine: - Proline: - Acide Aspartique - Leucine: Phénylalanine: - Sérine: - Lysine: - Glycine: - Valine: - Tyrosine: Iso-Leucine: - Alanine: - Thréonine: - Histidine: 30 - Méthionine: Cystine: : 30% 18% 10% : 9% 5% 4% 4% 3,5% 2,75% 2,75% 2,5% 2% 1,85% 1,85% 1,5% 0,9% 0,4% Le mélange d'acides aminés libres d'origine végétale décrit ciavant est utilisé en solution aqueuse à 25%, de préférence en une 35 quantité comprise entre 1% et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Plus avantageusement, cette quantité est comprise entre 2% et 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Ce mélange se présente sous la forme d'un liquide de couleur ambrée. According to the invention, the average composition of the mixture of these 30 amino acids, expressed in% by weight, is as follows - Glutamic acid between 20 and 35% - Arginine between 15 and 20% - Proline between 8 and 14% - Aspartic acid between 7 and 12% - Leucine: between 3 and 6% - Phenylalanine between 3 and 5% - Serine: - Lysine: - Glycine: - Valine: - Tyrosine: - Iso-Leucine: - Alanine: - Threonine: - Histidine: 10 - Methionine: - Cystine: between between between between between between between between between between 3 and 5% 3 and 4.5% 2 and 4% 2 and 4% 2 and 4% 1.5 and 3% 1.5 and 3 % 1.5 and 3% 1 and 2% 0.5 and 1.5% 0.2 and 0.8% A preferred composition of this mixture is as follows: Glutamic acid - Arginine: - Proline: - Aspartic acid - Leucine : Phenylalanine: - Serine: - Lysine: - Glycine: - Valine: - Tyrosine: Iso-Leucine: - Alanine: - Threonine: - Histidine: 30 - Methionine: Cystine:: 30% 18% 10%: 9% 5% 4 % 4% 3.5% 2.75% 2.75% 2.5% 2% 1.85% 1.85% 1.5% 0.9% 0.4% The mixture of free amino acids vegetable origin described above is used in 25% aqueous solution, preferably in an amount between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More advantageously, this amount is between 2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This mixture is in the form of an amber colored liquid.
Le D-panthénol (ou dexpanthénol), de formule: CH2OH - C(CH3)2 - CHOH - CO - NH - CH2 - CH2 - CH2OH, forme un film élastique fin lorsqu'il est déposé sur la cuticule du cheveu. Il pénètre ensuite en profondeur dans la fibre capillaire et se transforme alors en acide panthoténique. Les techniques de microscopie électronique spectrale ont démontré un 10 effet réparateur manifeste du D-panthénol sur des cheveux abîmés. D-panthenol (or dexpanthenol), of formula: CH2OH - C (CH3) 2 - CHOH - CO - NH - CH2 - CH2 - CH2OH, forms a thin elastic film when it is deposited on the cuticle of the hair. It then penetrates deep into the hair fiber and then turns into panthotenic acid. Spectral electron microscopy techniques have demonstrated a manifest repairing effect of D-panthenol on damaged hair.
De plus, ses effets sont cumulatifs au fur et à mesure des utilisations. L'augmentation correspondante de la teneur en acide panthoténique du cheveu améliore alors la capacité de rétention d'eau du cheveu. In addition, its effects are cumulative as and when used. The corresponding increase in the panthotenic acid content of the hair then improves the water retention capacity of the hair.
Le D-panthénol est utilisé de préférence en une quantité comprise entre 0, 1% et 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Plus avantageusement, cette quantité est comprise entre 0,3% et 2% en poids par rapport au poids total de la 20 composition. D-panthenol is preferably used in an amount of between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More advantageously, this amount is between 0.3% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon une disposition préférée de l'invention, les agents nettoyants sont constitués d'un ou plusieurs tensioactifs anioniques et d'un ou plusieurs tensioactifs amphotères: 25 - Les tensioactifs anioniques sont plus particulièrement les sels de sodium, de d'ammonium, de magnésium ou d'aminoalcools des alkyléthersulfate, alkylarylsarcosinates, alkyléthersulfosuccinates, alkylaryléthersulfates et alkylamidoethersulfates. 30 - Les tensioactifs amphotères sont de type alkylbétaïnes, sulfobétaInes, alkylamidoalkylbétaïnes ou les alkylamidoalkylsulfobétaïnes. According to a preferred arrangement of the invention, the cleaning agents consist of one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants: - The anionic surfactants are more particularly the sodium, ammonium and magnesium salts or amino alcohols of alkyl ether sulfates, alkylarylsarcosinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylarylethersulfates and alkylamidoethersulfates. 30 - The amphoteric surfactants are of the alkylbetaine, sulfobetaine, alkylamidoalkylbetaine or alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaine type.
Par rapport au poids total de la composition, - les tensioactifs anioniques représentent de 1 à 50% en poids et de façon préférée, de 5 à 30% en poids - les tensioactifs amphotères représentent de 1 à 30% en poids et de façon préférée, de 5 à 15% en poids La composition détergente selon l'invention peut également contenir tous les composants usuellement rencontrés dans les formulation de shampooings comme par exemple des épaississants, 10 des adoucissants, des modificateurs de mousse, des vitamines, des agents conditionneurs, des colorants, des conservateurs et des parfums. Relative to the total weight of the composition, the anionic surfactants represent from 1 to 50% by weight and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight the amphoteric surfactants represent from 1 to 30% by weight and preferably from 5 to 15% by weight The detergent composition according to the invention can also contain all the components usually encountered in the formulation of shampoos such as, for example, thickeners, softeners, foam modifiers, vitamins, conditioning agents, dyes, preservatives and fragrances.
L'invention est illustrée par 1' exemple non limitatif suivant. 15 The invention is illustrated by the following nonlimiting example. 15
EXEMPLEEXAMPLE
On prépare un shampooing réparateur pour cheveux fragilisés, sensibilisés ou abîmés selon la formule suivante (les 20 pourcentages indiqués s'entendent en poids): - Laurylether sulfate d'ammonium Lauroylsarcosinate de sodium - Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Mélange d'acides aminés libres d'origine végétale, selon la composition préférée de l'invention - Cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine oxyde - Triglycérides Caprylique/Caprique 30 - D-Panthénol - Gomme Guar cationique - Parfum Acide citrique - Conservateur,solution aqueuse à 10% 35 - Eau Déminéralisée 17% 8% 8% 4% 2,5% 2% 1% 1% 0,5% 0,1% 0,1% qsp 100% Le pH de ce shampooing est ajusté à pH 6,0 par ajout de triéthanolamine Les performances cosmétiques de ce shampooing ont été testés sur 5 des cheveux fragilisés, abîmés ou sensibilisés par des traitements chimiques, en comparaison avec un shampooing témoin formulé selon l'exemple qui précède, sans ajout du mélange d'acides aminés ni de D-panthénol. A repairing shampoo is prepared for fragile, sensitized or damaged hair according to the following formula (the 20 percentages given are by weight): - Laurylether ammonium sulfate Sodium Lauroylsarcosinate - Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Mixture of original free amino acids vegetable, according to the preferred composition of the invention - Cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine oxide - Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 30 - D-Panthenol - Cationic Guar Gum - Citric Acid Perfume - Preservative, 10% aqueous solution 35 - Demineralized Water 17% 8% 8% 4% 2.5% 2% 1% 1% 0.5% 0.1% 0.1% qs 100% The pH of this shampoo is adjusted to pH 6.0 by adding triethanolamine The cosmetic performance of this shampoo has were tested on fragile, damaged or sensitized hair by chemical treatments, in comparison with a control shampoo formulated according to the preceding example, without adding the mixture of amino acids or D-panthenol.
Ils ont été appliqués sur cheveux humides, émulsionnés et rincés à l'eau tiède après trois minutes de pauses. Après séchage, il a été constaté que les cheveux traités avec le shampooing de l'exemple étaient plus souples, plus brillants et plus lisses et plus doux au toucher. They were applied to damp hair, emulsified and rinsed with lukewarm water after three minutes of breaks. After drying, it was found that the hair treated with the shampoo of the example was more flexible, shiny and smoother and softer to the touch.
Claims (10)
Priority Applications (1)
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FR0304325A FR2853530B3 (en) | 2003-04-08 | 2003-04-08 | REPAIR SHAMPOO FOR HAIR |
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FR0304325A FR2853530B3 (en) | 2003-04-08 | 2003-04-08 | REPAIR SHAMPOO FOR HAIR |
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FR2853530A1 true FR2853530A1 (en) | 2004-10-15 |
FR2853530B3 FR2853530B3 (en) | 2005-07-01 |
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FR0304325A Expired - Fee Related FR2853530B3 (en) | 2003-04-08 | 2003-04-08 | REPAIR SHAMPOO FOR HAIR |
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Cited By (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US9586063B2 (en) | 2014-04-25 | 2017-03-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of inhibiting copper deposition on hair |
US9642788B2 (en) | 2014-04-25 | 2017-05-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Shampoo composition comprising gel matrix and histidine |
US9642787B2 (en) | 2014-04-25 | 2017-05-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of inhibiting copper deposition on hair |
FR3079750A1 (en) * | 2018-04-10 | 2019-10-11 | Laboratoires Lea | NEW KERATIN SUBSTITUTE OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN AND COSMETIC USES FOR HAIR CARE |
US10973744B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2021-04-13 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Conditioner composition comprising a chelant |
US11166894B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2021-11-09 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Shampoo compositions comprising a chelant |
US11246816B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2022-02-15 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Shampoo compositions comprising a chelant |
US11458085B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2022-10-04 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Hair care compositions for calcium chelation |
US11786447B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2023-10-17 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Conditioner composition comprising a chelant |
-
2003
- 2003-04-08 FR FR0304325A patent/FR2853530B3/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (10)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US9586063B2 (en) | 2014-04-25 | 2017-03-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of inhibiting copper deposition on hair |
US9642788B2 (en) | 2014-04-25 | 2017-05-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Shampoo composition comprising gel matrix and histidine |
US9642787B2 (en) | 2014-04-25 | 2017-05-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of inhibiting copper deposition on hair |
US10835469B2 (en) | 2014-04-25 | 2020-11-17 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Method of inhibiting copper deposition on hair |
US10973744B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2021-04-13 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Conditioner composition comprising a chelant |
US11166894B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2021-11-09 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Shampoo compositions comprising a chelant |
US11246816B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2022-02-15 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Shampoo compositions comprising a chelant |
US11458085B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2022-10-04 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Hair care compositions for calcium chelation |
US11786447B2 (en) | 2016-06-30 | 2023-10-17 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Conditioner composition comprising a chelant |
FR3079750A1 (en) * | 2018-04-10 | 2019-10-11 | Laboratoires Lea | NEW KERATIN SUBSTITUTE OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN AND COSMETIC USES FOR HAIR CARE |
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FR2853530B3 (en) | 2005-07-01 |
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