FR3079750A1 - NEW KERATIN SUBSTITUTE OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN AND COSMETIC USES FOR HAIR CARE - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a novel plant-derived keratin substitute or "plant keratin". The invention is characterized in that the plant-derived keratin substitute comprises arginine and protein extracts of wheat and / or rice and / or moringa. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, such a plant-derived keratin substitute and its uses for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments, and preferentially hair.

Description

NEW KERATIN SUBSTITUTE OF PLANT ORIGIN AND USES THEREOF

COSMETICS FOR HAIR CARE

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates more particularly to a new keratin substitute of plant origin, a cosmetic composition comprising such a substitute and its uses in particular as hair care.

Hair is made up of around 95% protein, including keratin. Seen in section, the hair consists of three concentric layers: on the outside, the cuticle consists of a thin protective covering; in the middle, the cortex, the intermediate “bark”, is the most robust part of the hair, and represents 90% of its total weight; and inside we find the medulla.

The cuticle is more particularly composed of scales, made of thin and ultra-flat keratin plates, stacked on top of each other, in several layers closely juxtaposed, like roof tiles. Vertically, these scales are nested head-to-tail in other scales, those of the inner sheath of the hair follicle, facing upwards. Their nesting in each other allows the hair shaft to go up, and grow along the follicle. Horizontally, the scales of the cuticle are linked together by ceramides, oily and precious substances, mainly consisting of essential fatty acids. The cuticle is thus covered with a thin lipid layer which makes the hair waterproof, provided that it is completely intact and undamaged. It represents on average 10% of the diameter of the hair.

In the cortex, keratin is made up of two kinds of fibers, some vertical, others horizontal. Vertically, there are multiple skeins of proteins, embedded in each other, namely macrofibrils, also comprising the melanin pigments which determine the color of the hair, which are themselves made of several thousand microfibrils, which are at in turn assembled into protofibrils (primitive fibrils). The twisted chains follow the axis of the hair and give it its elasticity. Horizontally, these protein chains are sealed to each other by disulfide bridges. These bridges give the chains their rigidity and consistency. The cortex gives the hair its color and its resistance. It represents on average 75% of the diameter of the hair.

The cord looks like a large pipe and is made up of cells without a nucleus. Its role is not really known. The medulla represents on average 15% of the diameter.

More particularly, keratin is a natural protein, fibrous and insoluble in water, which protects against external aggressions such as pollution, drying, UV, sea water and strengthens impermeability. It is also responsible for the elasticity, shine and strength of the hair. We distinguish soft keratin, which is found in the epidermis, from hard keratin, present in hair, hair and nails.

Keratin is naturally made up of approximately 205 amino acids and in particular by the combination of 18 natural amino acids, with a high concentration of cysteine (/.e. 14 to 16% of the total mass of amino acids), rich in sulfur, which plays an essential role in the cohesion of the hair, and a low content of hydroxyproline and lysine.

Keratin is produced by keratinocytes. Located in the matrix, at the bottom of the hair follicle, these cells divide into daughter cells, throughout the anagen phase of a hair's life cycle. Barely formed, the daughter cells immediately split, oust the previous ones, cause them to lose their nucleus, cause them to die and stiffen, pushing them upwards. Then they in turn die to make way for the next. This reproduction is done in a short time between 24 and 72 hours. Keratin arises from this storage of dead cells which harden (keratinization) and go up tirelessly along the hair follicle, to form the surface of the hair.

The hair is thus a dead matter, which lost all life from the moment it was made by the hair root. This is why the keratin in our hair can be "manipulated", without any painful reaction on our part (crimping, straightening, straightening ...) but nevertheless not without damage for the different layers of keratin which form the structure of the hair.

In addition, the stock of keratin is depleted over time and attacks. Indeed, the hair undergoes daily multiple aggressions such as a significant exposure to UV, excessive washing and brushing, chemical coloring, repeated exposure to heat via hair straighteners / dryers, ... These aggressions cause chemical and physical damage to the hair.

There is therefore a need to compensate for the keratin deficiencies which increase over time due to the absence of continual renewal of natural keratin and to protect the hair against the chemical and physical aggressions which they undergo.

For this purpose, a large number of shampoos and hair compositions, in particular keratin, are known for hair care, according to the products available on the market.

It is very important to distinguish two kinds of keratin: animal keratin from animal keratin waste and plant-based keratin substitutes, commonly known as "vegetable keratin" or from plants.

Animal keratin is obtained from animal keratin waste. We distinguish soft keratin (from animal skin) from hard keratin (from nails, scales, feathers, ...). Animal keratin can also come from human keratin waste (i.e. hair recovered from hairdressers). The extraction is done for example from horns and hooves of slaughter animals but also from poultry feathers, eggshell membranes ... The extraction can also be done from sheep's wool for example.

By comparing the amino acids present in hair to those present in keratin from sheep's wool, we can see that the profiles are similar. Animal keratin is thus used in cosmetic products for hair care.

The known plant-based keratin substitutes are derived from plant extracts and have a composition rich in amino acids.

They are generally composed of wheat, soy, almond, pea or even corn proteins, taken alone or in a mixture.

For this purpose, the PHYTOKERATIN® PF (marketed by LONZA®) is known, for example, to be used as a hydrating and protective agent in formulations of hair care products.

Mention may also be made of the vegetable keratin used by PHYTO® in its products PHYTOKERATINE® and PHYTOKERATINE EXTREME® composed of 18 amino acids derived from wheat, corn and soybeans, in combination with other active agents such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, pomegranate extract, sap butter and baobab oil.

We also know the COSLYS® shampoo with vegetable keratin from wheat, corn, glycine and a mushroom for hair care.

The known "vegetable keratins" therefore enter into complex formulations of hair care compositions and there is nothing to suggest that they can have a sufficiently effective protection and repair activity for the hair as such.

Considering the above, a problem which the invention proposes to solve is to develop a new keratin substitute of vegetable origin or “vegetable keratin” based on proteins (or protein extracts), the amino acid composition of which is close to that of the hair, derived from plant material, having a synergistic effect allowing in particular to smooth the scales and repair the cuticle and having an improved activity compared to animal keratin for the care in particular of the hair.

The first object of the invention is therefore a keratin substitute of plant origin, comprising arginine and protein extracts from wheat and / or rice and / or moringa.

The second object of the invention is also a cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, a keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention.

Finally, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments, and preferably the hair.

In this description, unless otherwise specified, it is understood that, when an interval is given, it includes the upper and lower bounds of said interval.

The invention will be better understood on reading the following nonlimiting description, drawn up with reference to the appended drawings in which:

- Figure 1 shows the comparative results of the amino acid dosage of a vegetable keratin according to the invention and an animal keratin;

- Figures 2A and 2B show scanning electron microscopy (SEM) photographs of raw, undenatured and untreated natural human hair;

- Figure 2C shows a diagram of capillary characteristics of raw natural human hair not denatured and untreated (healthy hair);

- Figure 3A shows a diagram of capillary characteristics of raw natural human hair denatured and untreated;

- Figures 4A and 4B show SEM photographs of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base;

- Figures 5A, 5B and 5C show SEM photographs of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising animal keratin;

- Ια Figure 5D represents a diagram of capillary characteristics of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising animal keratin;

- Figures 6A and 6B show SEM photographs of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising vegetable keratin according to the invention;

- Figure 6C shows a diagram of capillary characteristics of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising vegetable keratin according to the invention;

- Figures 7A, 7B and 7C show SEM photographs of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising a protein extract of wheat;

- Figure 7D shows a diagram of capillary characteristics of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising a protein extract of wheat;

- Figures 8A and 8B show SEM photographs of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising a rice protein extract;

- Figure 8C shows a diagram of capillary characteristics of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising a protein extract of rice;

- Figures 9A and 9B show SEM photographs of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising a protein extract of moringa;

- Figure 9C shows a diagram of capillary characteristics of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising a protein extract of moringa;

- Figures 10A and 10B show SEM photographs of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising arginine;

- Figure 10C shows a diagram of capillary characteristics of raw natural human hair denatured and treated with a shampoo base comprising arginine;

- Figure 11 represents a comparative diagram of capillary characteristics of natural raw human hair not denatured and not treated (healthy hair), denatured and not treated, denatured and treated with a shampoo base alone or comprising respectively animal keratin, keratin vegetable according to the invention, a protein extract of wheat, a protein extract of rice, a protein extract of moringa or arginine;

- Figure 12 shows a diagram of capillary characteristics of dry hair treated with a shampoo base alone or comprising vegetable keratin according to the invention;

- Figure 13 represents the average of the concentration of proteins degraded in pg / mg of hair for untreated and unstressed hair, hair stressed by ultraviolet (UV) and hair treated with vegetable keratin according to the invention. - or UV post-irradiation;

- Figure 14 shows the average decrease / increase in% of protein degradation for hair stressed by UV and hair treated with vegetable keratin according to the invention pre- or post-UV irradiation compared to the control condition (hair untreated and unstressed);

- Figure 15 illustrates the protective effect of vegetable keratin according to the invention on hair against UV; and

- Figure 16 illustrates the repairing effect of vegetable keratin according to the invention on hair degraded by UV.

The invention relates to a new keratin substitute of plant origin, also called "vegetable keratin" in the description and the figures of the invention.

By vegetable keratin substitute or “vegetable keratin” is meant according to the invention a combination of proteins, peptides and / or amino acids which are not derived from the animal kingdom.

The keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention is a combination of arginine, obtained from bacterial fermentation and / or from the plant kingdom, and protein extracts obtained from the plant kingdom, and more particularly protein extracts from wheat and / or rice and / or moringa.

The plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention comprises arginine and protein extracts from wheat and / or rice and / or moringa.

By protein extract according to the invention is meant an extract comprising proteins, protein fragments (peptides) and / or amino acids derived from the chosen plant material.

Preferably, arginine is L-arginine.

Arginine, or preferably its L-type structure, L-arginine, is a semi-essential amino acid. Arginine has a strong affinity for the hair, promotes hair growth, and stimulates microcirculation, thus bringing the essential nutrients for growth.

According to an exemplary embodiment of the invention, L-arginine can be obtained by fermentation from mutants of Corynebacterium, Brevibacterium, Bacillus, or Serratia.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the plant-based keratin substitute comprises arginine and a protein extract from wheat.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the plant-based keratin substitute comprises arginine and a protein extract from rice.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the plant-based keratin substitute comprises arginine and a protein extract of moringa.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the keratin substitute of plant origin comprises arginine and protein extracts from wheat and rice.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the plant-based keratin substitute comprises arginine and protein extracts from wheat and moringa.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the keratin substitute of plant origin comprises arginine and protein extracts from rice and moringa.

Preferably, the plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention comprises arginine and protein extracts from wheat, rice and moringa.

The protein extracts of wheat, rice and moringa used in the composition of the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention can be obtained by any type of extraction commonly used by those skilled in the art for obtaining protein extracts.

According to an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the wheat protein extract is obtained from an enzymatic hydrolysis of whole wheat grains and / or meal in an alkaline medium.

According to an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the rice protein extract is obtained from whole rice grains, rice bran and / or meal by extraction, for example by enzymatic and / or aqueous hydrolysis in the presence of glycerin followed by step (s) of filtration and / or concentration.

According to an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the protein extract of moringa is obtained from moringa seeds and / or cake by extraction in aqueous solution followed by an enzymatic hydrolysis step, and step ( s) filtration and / or concentration.

Advantageously, the protein extracts or peptides from wheat, rice and moringa are of low molecular weight, for example mainly less than 3.5 kDa, even more advantageously less than 1 kDa or even less than 500 Do.

The keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention preferably comprises at least 1% of arginine, and at least 30% of wheat protein extract, and / or at least 30% of rice protein extract and / or at least 2% of moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the substitute.

More preferably, the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention comprises at least 2% of arginine, at least 40% of wheat protein extract, and / or at least 40% of rice protein extract and at minus 5% moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the substitute.

Even more preferably, the keratin substitute of plant origin comprises around 4.4% arginine, 44.4% wheat protein extract, 44.4% rice protein extract, and 6 , 8% protein extract of moringa, by weight of the total weight of the substitute.

The dosage of amino acids of a keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention comprising of the order of 4.4% arginine, 44.4% of wheat protein extract, 44.4% of rice protein extract, and 6.8% moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the substitute, was produced by comparison with an animal keratin hydrolyzed by enzymatic synthesis obtained from virgin Merino wool at low temperature and neutral pH.

The amino acid profile obtained is shown in Table 1 and the assay results are listed in Table 2 below:

Table 1: Profile

Amino acids Animal keratin Vegetable keratin according to the invention Aspartic acid Presence Presence threonine Presence Presence serine Presence Presence Glutamic acid Presence Presence praline Presence Presence wistaria Presence Presence alanine Presence Presence valine Presence Presence

cysteine Presence Presence methionine Presence Presence isoleucine Presence Presence leucine Presence Presence tyrosine Presence Presence phenylalanine Presence Presence lysine Presence Presence histidine Presence Presence arginine Presence Presence tryptophan Presence Presence

Table 2: Dosage

Amino acids Animal keratin (mg / lOOg of product) Vegetable keratin according to the invention (mg / lOOg of product) Aspartic acid 593.1 267.3 threonine 247.7 217.7 serine 418.1 274.2 Glutamic acid 1236 1721 proline 501.1 592.2 wistaria 492.7 244.1 alanine 408.4 207.8 valine 431.5 237.8 cysteine 273.8 156.9 methionine 63.8 107.5 isoleucine 256.4 205 leucine 654.8 408.6 tyrosine 316.7 138.7 phenylalanine 287.1 281.2 lysine 207 108.6 histidine 57 108.2 arginine 465.1 2521 tryptophan 65.9 13.5 Total 6976 7811

The results of Table 2 are more particularly illustrated by Figure 1. According to these results (Tables 1 and 2, and Figure 1), the amino acid profile of the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention is relatively similar. to that of animal keratin.

The vegetable keratin substitute according to the invention has a qualitative composition similar to that of animal keratin. The 18 natural amino acids present in animal keratin are also present in the composition of the plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention.

The vegetable-based keratin substitute according to the invention has a total quantitative amino acid composition comparable with less than 20% difference in weight of the total weight of amino acids, advantageously of the order of 10% difference.

The plant-based keratin substitute contains quantitatively more natural amino acids than animal keratin. The plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention contains more glutamic acid, proline, methionine, histidine and especially arginine than animal keratin.

The plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention comprises at least two times, preferably at least five times more L-arginine than animal keratin.

Preferably, the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention comprises at least 10%, more preferably at least 15%, even more preferably at least 30%, of L-arginine by weight relative to the weight of natural amino acids total of said substitute.

The keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention is however very difficult to characterize as such because its composition varies according to the plant materials used, according to various factors such as the parts of the plant materials used, the place of harvest, the harvest mode, climatic conditions, or the year of harvest.

The plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention can be used as such or advantageously enter into the formulation of a range of cosmetic products.

Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, a keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention.

A physiologically acceptable medium means a medium suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, in particular skin cells, scalp and hair, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable risk / benefit ratio.

Such a physiologically acceptable medium can comprise excipients known and used in the cosmetic field. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the physiologically acceptable medium so that it does not harm the advantageous properties of the keratin substitute of plant origin and of the compositions according to the invention.

By way of illustrative example, a physiologically acceptable medium according to the invention can comprise known excipients and commonly used in the cosmetic field such as waters, floral waters, esters, vegetable oils, mineral and synthetic oils, and in addition dyes , sweeteners, flavorings, opacifiers, perfumes, bulking agents, gelling agents, texturizers, binders, chelating agents, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, foaming agents and / or preservatives, these adjuvants and their proportions being chosen so as not to harm the advantageous properties sought after of the keratin substitute of plant origin and of the compositions according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 0.005% of arginine, preferably L-arginine, and at least 0.01% of wheat protein extract, and / or at least 0.01% of rice protein extract , and / or at least 0.005% of moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.01% of arginine, preferably L-arginine, at least 0.1% of wheat protein extract, at least 0.1% of rice protein extract , and at least 0.01% of moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises between 0.01 and 2% of arginine, preferably L-arginine, and between 0.1 and 5% of wheat protein extract, between 0.1 and 5% d 'rice protein extract, and / or between 0.01 and 5% of moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises between 0.01 and 0.5% of arginine, between 0.1 and 2% of wheat protein extract, between 0.1 and 2% of protein extract rice, and between 0.01 and 0.5% of moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises between 0.05 and 10% of keratin substitute of vegetable origin, preferably between 0.25 and 1.126%, by weight of the total weight of the composition .

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is formulated in a form suitable for being applied topically to the skin, the scalp and / or the integuments.

By appendage according to the invention means the hair, the hairs, the eyebrows, the eyelashes and the nails.

The compositions for the implementation of the invention may be more or less fluid and may be in all dosage forms suitable for use for topical application. They may in particular be in the form of an aqueous, hydro-alcoholic or oily solution, an oil-in-water, water-in-oil emulsion or multiple emulsions, suspension, cream, lotion, milk, serum, ointment, gel, paste, mask, foam, shampoo (liquid, solid, dry, powder, or paste), pre-shampoo or conditioner.

The composition according to the invention is more particularly formulated to be applied to the hair and the scalp.

It is preferably in the form of shampoo, pre-shampoo, conditioner, mask, serum, cream or lotion.

The cosmetic compositions produced are suitable for topical cosmetic use without risk of discomfort when applied to the skin, scalp and / or integuments.

Even more advantageously, certain compositions thus developed comply with the fundamental principles of ecological and organic cosmetics according to specifications certified by Cosmos and Ecocert cosmetics.

As an illustrative example, examples of formulations of a composition containing a keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention are mentioned below:

Example 1: Shampoo

INCI Mixed Names % Material (by weight of total weight) AQUA / WATER / WATER > 50 BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.5 to 1 Wheat peptide extract comprising: AQUA / WATER / EAU HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN 0.01 to 5

Rice peptide extract comprising: AQUA / WATER / WATER ORYZA SATIVA (SEED) PROTEIN ORYZA SATIVA (RICE HULL POWDER) EXTRACT 0.01 to 5 ARGININE 0.01 to 2 Moringa peptide extract comprising: HYDROLYZED MORINGA OLEIFERA SEED EXTRACT AQUA / WATER / EAU 0.01 to 5 GLYCERIN 1 to 5 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.1 to 0.5 LACTIC ACID AQUA / WATER / WATER <0.1 AQUA / WATER / WATER COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE SODIUM CHLORIDE 10 to 50 AQUA / WATER / WATER SODIUM LAUROYL METHYL ISETHIONATE TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE SODIUM BENZOATE 10 to 50 decylglucoside AQUA / WATER / WATER 1 to 5 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.1 to 0.5 COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL <0.1 AQUA / WATER / WATER SODIUM HYDROXIDE <0.1

EXAMPLE 2 Hair Mask Before Shampoo

INCI Mixed Names % Material (by weight of total weight) AQUA / WATER / WATER > 50 BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.5 to 1 KAOLIN 5 to 10 GLYCERIN 1 to 5 XANTHAN GUM 0.5 to 1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 1 to 5 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1 to 5 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 5 to 10 COCO-caprylate Tocopherol HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 1 to 5 AQUA / WATER / WATER SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE 0.5 to 1 Wheat peptide extract comprising: AQUA / WATER / EAU HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN 0.01 to 5

Rice peptide extract comprising: AQUA / WATER / WATER ORYZA SATIVA (SEED) PROTEIN ORYZA SATIVA (RICE HULL POWDER) EXTRACT 0.01 to 5 Moringa peptide extract comprising: HYDROLYZED MORINGA OLEIFERA SEED EXTRACT AQUA / WATER / EAU 0.01 to 5 ARGININE 0.01 to 2 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.1 to 0.5 Tocopherol HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED CIL <0.1 COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL <0.1 AQUA / WATER / WATER SODIUM HYDROXIDE <0.1 LACTIC ACID AQUA / WATER / WATER 0.1 to 0.5

Finally, another object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments, and preferably the hair.

By hair is meant all types of hair, for example dry, wet, greasy, healthy or damaged hair, curly, frizzy, curly or straight hair, and / or natural, colored or bleached hair.

By hair care is meant, for example, a strengthening of the structure of the hair and of the hair fibers making it possible to improve their appearance.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is used to protect the hair fibers and repair the cuticle of the hair.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is used to facilitate disentangling, and bring suppleness, softness and shine to the hair.

The vegetable keratin substitute or "vegetable keratin" according to the invention has a higher efficiency than animal keratin. The various constituent materials of the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention, namely the protein extracts of wheat, rice and moringa and arginine potentiate their activities to offer a synergistic effect for the care of the hair, dry or wet.

It allows to obtain a homogeneous cuticle with regular and smooth scales. It also makes it possible to promote their smoothing and their resistance, to facilitate disentangling, and to bring softness and shine to the hair, in particular dry hair. The hair thus appears to have regained its natural hydration.

The vegetable-based keratin substitute according to the invention makes it possible to repair denatured dry hair which regains its silky appearance, a supple, soft, manageable and shiny appearance. It also helps protect the hair against daily external attacks.

As such, the invention is illustrated by the results of activity tests for hair care below.

EXAMPLE 3 Comparative Tests of Different Treatments on Wick of Denatured Hair

The aim is to test the effectiveness of the various constituent materials of the plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention taken alone or in combination, by comparison with animal keratin on strands of denatured raw human natural hair.

The effectiveness of the various treatments was analyzed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) allowing the visualization of the surface of the hair. SEM is an electron microscopy technique based on the principle of electron-matter interactions, capable of producing high resolution images of the surface of a sample. The principle of SEM consists of an electron beam scanning the surface of the sample to be analyzed which, in response, re-emits certain particles. These particles are analyzed by different detectors which make it possible to reconstruct a three-dimensional image of the surface whose resolution is between 0.4 nanometer and 20 nanometers.

Various characteristics of the hair thus treated were also evaluated, namely more particularly the softness, the shine, the disentangling, the volume and the electrostatic.

Denaturing protocol:

1. Prepare 500 mL of a denaturing solution in a beaker. Composition of the denaturing solution:

Water: 79.434%

Ammonium lauryl sulfate: 19.89% Benzoic acid: 0.37%

Soda lye: 0.306% final pH = 7.99

2. Immerse the wick in the denaturing solution, make 5 turns of beaker then leave the wick immersed in this solution for 3 minutes.

3. Rinse the wick in 5 baths filled with 200 mL of reverse osmosis water:

at. Turn Ια wick 3 times in the beaker of the 1st rinsing bath.

b. Take the wick out of the bath and pass it between 2 fingers to wring it out.

vs. Repeat in the same way in the following 3 baths.

d. Immerse the wick in the 5th rinsing bath, turn it 3 times then leave it immersed for 30 seconds before removing it from the bath and passing it between 2 fingers to wring it out.

4. Do not dry the wick:

at. Apply the product to be tested directly to a wet wick.

b. Let the wick dry naturally by placing it on absorbent paper.

Application protocol for the different treatments (rinsed products)

1. Place 1 g of product to be tested in a watch glass.

2. Pass a denatured wick through the product to coat it.

3. Smooth the wick between 2 fingers to apply the product to the tips.

4. Leave on for 10 minutes.

5. Rinse the wick in 5 successive baths filled with 200 mL of reverse osmosis water: immerse the wick for a few seconds in each bath then pass it between 2 fingers at the outlet of the water to remove the excess product.

6. Untangle the wick by passing the comb 3 times over wet hair.

7. Place the wick on absorbent paper and allow to dry naturally.

Results:

- Raw natural human hair, which has not yet undergone any denaturing according to the protocol or treatment, is used as a reference ("healthy hair").

As illustrated by FIGS. 2A and 2B, the observation with SEM (U = 6kV P = 1.30 mbar; Photographs carried out at magnification xlOOO) of such raw natural human hair not denatured and untreated reveals heterogeneous hair with debris from scales. There is an irregular cuticle, sometimes with an uplift of broken scales and with serrations. The cuticle is thus detached, raised, not correctly pressed on the circumference of the scales unlike hair which would be in good health. Following the various mechanical aggressions (brushing, smoothing, tied hair, ...), certain hair fibers have therefore been damaged and have a more or less ovoid section.

As shown in Figure 2C, they are soft, smooth, shiny and easily disentangled with a comb.

- Raw natural human hair is denatured in accordance with the protocol described above.

As illustrated in Figures 3A and 11, natural hair thus denatured loses its softness. They are difficult to disentangle. They lose their shine compared to undenatured natural hair.

- Denatured raw natural human hair was treated (washed) with a shampoo base without active ingredient (negative control) according to the protocol described above.

As illustrated by FIGS. 4A and 4B, the observation with SEM of raw natural human hair denatured and then treated (washed) with the shampoo base without active agent shows a fairly homogeneous cuticle with slight serrations, cuticle debris and sometimes l appearance of the cortex.

If we compare the raw natural human hair washed with the shampoo base without active with the raw natural human hair (not denatured and not treated), we observe that after treatment, debris of scales persists and the cuticles are disordered.

- The raw natural denatured human hair was treated with animal keratin extracted from sheep's wool at 2% (in the shampoo base) according to the protocol described above.

As illustrated in FIGS. 5A, 5B and 50, the observation with SEM of raw natural human hair denatured and then treated (washed) with the shampoo base containing animal keratin shows us a heterogeneity of the hair fibers. We can observe a cuticle tearing in places, with the appearance of smoothed areas. The cuticle is irregular, with uplift of scales and presence of serrations.

As illustrated in Figures 5D and 11, the hair thus treated with animal keratin regains softness and shine. However, they do not find the texture of natural, healthy, undenatured hair.

- The raw natural human hair was treated, after denaturing, with 1.126% of keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention comprising 0.5% of wheat protein extract, 0.5% of rice protein extract , 0.076% of moringa protein extract and 0.05% of L-arginine, by weight of the total weight of the washing composition, in accordance with the protocol described above.

As illustrated by FIGS. 6A and 6B, the observation with SEM of raw natural human hair denatured and then treated (washed) with the shampoo base containing the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention shows us a homogeneity of the fibers. capillaries. Homogeneous cuticles can be observed. The scales are tight, regular, without serration. The hair fibers are repaired.

As illustrated in FIGS. 60 and 11, the hair thus treated with the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention regains softness, shine, and the disentangling is facilitated. We find the texture of natural and healthy hair without denaturing. The comparison shows us that thanks to the vegetable-based keratin substitute according to the invention, the hair has a very soft and fine texture.

- The raw natural human hair was treated, after denaturing, with a 1% wheat protein extract in the shampoo base, according to the protocol described above.

As illustrated in FIGS. 7A, 7B and 70, the observation by SEM of raw natural human hair denatured and then treated (washed) with the shampoo base containing the protein extract of vegetable wheat (used in the composition of the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention) taken alone, shows us a homogeneity of the hair fibers. Homogeneous cuticles can be observed. The scales have slight serrations.

As illustrated in Figures 7D and 11, although there is softness, shine and easier disentangling with wheat protein extract taken alone compared to denatured hair, the hair is however less easily disentangled than with the keratin substitute of vegetable origin or “vegetable keratin” according to the invention. Hair also has less volume and is softer than with the plant-based keratin substitute.

- The raw natural human hair was treated, after denaturing, with a 1% rice protein extract in the shampoo base, according to the protocol described above.

As illustrated by FIGS. 8A and 8B, the observation with SEM of raw natural human hair denatured and then treated (washed) with the shampoo base containing the rice protein extract (used in the composition of the original keratin substitute vegetable according to the invention) taken alone, shows us a homogeneity of the hair fibers. You can observe irregular cuticles, an uplift of scales and the presence of serrations.

As illustrated in Figures 8C and 11, although there is softness, shine and easier disentangling with the rice protein extract taken alone compared to denatured hair, the hair is however less easily disentangled than with the keratin substitute of vegetable origin or “vegetable keratin” according to the invention. They're also less gentle and more electrostatic than the plant-based keratin substitute.

- The raw natural human hair was treated, after denaturing, with a 1% moringa protein extract in the shampoo base, according to the protocol described above.

As illustrated by FIGS. 9A and 9B, the observation with SEM of raw natural human hair denatured and then treated (washed) with the shampoo base containing the protein extract of moringa (used in the composition of the original keratin substitute taken according to the invention) taken alone, shows us cut, lifted and jagged cuticles, as well as tearing in places, until the appearance of smoothed areas.

As illustrated in Figures 9C and 11, although there is softness and easier disentangling with the Moringa protein extract taken alone compared to denatured hair, the hair is less easily disentangled than with the keratin substitute of vegetable origin or "vegetable keratin" according to the invention. They're also noticeably softer and more electrostatic than the plant-based keratin substitute.

- Raw human natural hair was treated, after denaturing, with 0.05% arginine in the shampoo base, according to the protocol described above.

As illustrated by FIGS. 10A and 10B, observation by SEM of raw natural human hair denatured and then treated (washed) with the shampoo base containing arginine (used in the composition of the keratin substitute of plant origin according to l 'invention) alone, shows us cuticles that are open, peeled off and lifted, as well as cut-away cuticles in places, until the appearance of smoothed areas and cuticle particles on the hair.

As illustrated in Figures 10C and 11, although we find softness and shine with arginine alone compared to denatured hair, the hair is less easily disentangled and less shiny than with the keratin substitute d 'vegetable origin or' vegetable keratin 'according to the invention. They are also more electrostatic and do not regain the same volume as with the vegetable-based keratin substitute even if they remain just as soft.

Conclusion:

On the basis of the results obtained in Example 1 and as illustrated more particularly by FIG. 11, it appears that the combination of the raw materials contained in the keratin substitute of vegetable origin or “vegetable keratin” according to the invention has improved efficiency compared to the same raw materials taken alone under comparable conditions. Likewise, the plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention has improved efficacy compared to animal keratin. The effect of the various materials associated in the vegetable-based keratin substitute according to the invention is thus potentiated.

The vegetable keratin substitute, comprising 0.5% wheat protein extract, 0.5% rice protein extract, 0.076% moringa protein extract and 0.05% L-arginine weight of the total weight of the washing composition, tested on denatured hair strands, therefore has a synergistic effect which in particular makes it possible to smooth the scales, repair the cuticle and improve the care of the hair.

The plant-based keratin substitute according to the invention also makes it possible to facilitate disentangling, brings shine and softness to the hair. Hair is softer, finer to the touch, detangles easily and is shiny.

Example 4 Determination of the Percentage of Use of the Plant-Based Keratin Substitute According to the Invention

The aim is to determine the percentages of keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention (by weight of the total weight of the composition) which are more particularly preferred to apply in order to obtain an optimal effect for hair care.

For this, we compared the results obtained with the use of the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention comprising arginine and protein extracts of wheat, rice, moringa, at different percentages, on locks of hair. denatured, wet or dry raw natural humans, applying the protocol described in Example 3; strands of natural, undenatured, raw human hair are used as a control.

The results obtained are listed in Table 3 below. The characteristics relating to softness, shine, detangling (hair and tip), volume, electrostatic and smoothing are evaluated giving scores from 0 to 10; 0 meaning “little”, “difficult” or “bad” result; and 10 meaning 5 "a lot", "easy" or "good" result.

Table 3: Results

Tests carried out with vegetable keratin (in% of the weight of the total weight of the composition) 0,250 0,407 0.5 0.7 1,126 Wheat protein extract 0.111 0,181 0.222 0.311 0.5 Rice protein extract 0.111 0,181 0.222 0.311 0.5 Moringa protein extract 0,017 0,027 0,034 0,047 0,076 arginine 0,011 0,018 0,022 0.031 0.05 TOTAL 0,250 0,407 0.5 0.7 1,126 Evaluation of OàlO From 0 to 10 From 0 to 10 From 0 to 10 From 0 to 10 From 0 to 10 GENTLE soft less soft tip soft soft very soft very fine to the touch very soft, very fine to the touch 7 8 8 9 9 SHINE very bright very bright very bright very bright very bright 9 9 9 9 9 disentangling Wet, Wet, Wet, Wet, Wet, HAIR difficult the difficult the difficult the easier, enough comb stand comb stand comb stand the comb easy the blocks at blocks at blocks at screeches comb level at 10 cm from the tips level 8 cm from the tips. level of tips and crisp hair. always. squeak a little less 4 5 6 7 8 hair hair hair hair hair dry: enough dry: dry: very dry: very dry: very easy easy enough easy easy easy 6 6 8 9 9

SPARKING wet very difficult 4 sec: easy 7 wet hard 5 sec easy 8 wet correct 6 sec easy 8 wet correct 7 sec very easy 9 wet easy 8 sec very easy 9 VOLUME more volume, flexible, less stiff 8 more volume, flexible, less stiff 8 more volume, flexible, less stiff 8 smooth hair, looks sheathed, stiffer 6 smooth hair, looks sheathed, stiffer 6 ELECTROSTATIC 9 9 9 9 9 SMOOTH smooth, flexible, tendency to go up 7 smooth flexible, tendency to go up 7 smooth flexible, tendency to go up 7 smooth stiff 8 smooth stiff 9

Comparison with the different percentages of keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention shows advantageous results with all of the concentrations tested.

Depending on the percentage used, except for the volume, we observe even more advantageous results at a concentration of 1.126% than at 0.25%, in particular for softness, detangling or even smoothing.

Example 5:

Another test was carried out by a hairdresser by comparing two cream shampoos on half-head with dry and blind hair. The same shampoo, one without active ingredient and the other with 1.126% of keratin substitute of vegetable origin according to the invention, comprising 0.05% of L-arginine and 0.5% of wheat protein extract, 0.5% of rice protein extract, and 0.076% of moringa protein extract by weight of the total weight of shampoo, were applied.

As illustrated in FIG. 12, the addition of the vegetable-based keratin substitute according to the invention in a shampoo makes it possible to facilitate disentangling on wet and dry hair and to increase the shine and the softness of the hair.

Example 6: Bradford tests

The Bradford test (protein assay) carried out on strands of hair stressed by ultraviolet (UV) causing an oxidation of proteins has the objectives of:

- determine the repairing effect of the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention at 0.5% and 1.126% (cf. compositions according to Table 3);

- determine the protective effect of the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention at 0.5% and 1.126% (cf. compositions according to Table 3).

Protocol:

strands of 3 g from the same batch of untreated and unstressed Caucasian hair are distributed as follows:

Control Wicks:

1.3 strands of untreated and unstressed hair, as a control (= N).

2. 3 strands of hair stressed by UV rays but not treated (= S)

Wicks for Tests:

3. For the repairing effect:

strands of hair stressed by UV on which the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention at 0.5% (= R1) (or product to be tested) is applied 10 times according to the protocol described below.

strands of hair stressed by UV on which the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention at 1.126% (= R2) is applied 10 times according to the protocol described below.

4. For the protective effect:

locks of hair treated with the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention at 0.5% (= P 1) 10 times and then subjected to UV stress.

locks of hair treated with the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention at 1.126% (= P2) 10 times and then subjected to UV stress.

The locks are stressed (irradiated) for 48 hours at 500W / m ² using the SUNTEST CPS + ® (ATLAS Material Testing Technology BV, Germany). UV irradiation on the hair leads to physical and chemical degradation of the hair.

Examples of physical changes include:

- detachment / lifting of the scales which may be due to the degradation of the CMC (Membrano-Cellular Complex). This complex is responsible for the adhesive contact between 2 scales;

- the appearance of small bumps on the hair resulting in a less smooth and non-uniform surface;

- a widening of holes (holes can be formed on the hair following various attacks) due to the degradation of the cuticles on the borders and on the layers of internal cuticles. A deepening of the cavities can also be observed;

- a finding of scalloped edges of the scales and an exfoliation of the cuticles; or

- a decrease in the shine of the hair due to the dispersion of light in front of an irregular cuticle surface.

Examples of chemical changes include:

- UV irradiation also involves the photo degradation of amino acids such as tryptophan, tyrosine and phenylalanine. In particular, there is an increase in the level of soluble proteins and in the level of thiol (sulfur group) in irradiated hair. The increase in the number of sulfur groups may be in particular due to the rupture of disulfide bonds; or

- an increase in the rate of oxidation of cystine with irradiation. UV irradiation acts on the S-S covalent bonds therefore the rate of cysteine residues increases. These ruptures occur on the outer layers but also on the inner layers at a lower rate. The cleavage of such bridges leads to a change in the general conformation of the keratin of the outer layers. Minor changes in the secondary structure of proteins in irradiated hair can also be seen.

Application protocols:

- Repairing effect (RI and R2 wicks)

The locks are put under UV stress according to the protocol described above. Application of the active ingredient to the hair:

Wash the wick with a neutral shampoo for 2 minutes. Rinse with water for 1 minute.

Apply 3g of the product to be tested on the lock of hair and leave in contact for 10 minutes so that it is well soaked.

Take the wick out of the solution.

Leave to stand for 24 hours at room temperature (25 ° C, 50% Relative Humidity).

After these 24 hours, wash the wick with neutral shampoo for 2 minutes.

Rinse with water for 1 minute.

Repeat the application procedure 9 times for 10 applications in total.

- Protective effect (PI and P2 wicks)

Application of the active ingredient to the hair:

Wash the wick with neutral shampoo for 2 minutes.

Rinse with water for 1 minute.

Apply 3g of the product to be tested on the lock of hair and leave in contact for 10 minutes so that it is well soaked.

Take the wick out of the solution.

Leave to stand for 24 hours at room temperature (25 ° C, 50% Relative Humidity).

After these 24 hours, wash the wick with neutral shampoo for 2 minutes.

Rinse with water for 1 minute.

Repeat the application procedure 9 times for 10 applications in total.

The locks are put under UV stress according to the protocol described above.

The Bradford colorimetric test is a test for visualizing protein degradation.

100 mg of hair from each sample was cut into small pieces and put in 3 ml flasks with 2 ml of 2% SDS aqueous solution. The samples were sonicated using a LABSONIC® 1510 device (B. Braun, Melsungen, Germany) for 5 hours at 45 ° C. The hair extracts were then diluted in 0.01% SDS and the Bradford colorimetric test was used to quantify the solubilized proteins and peptides. This test is based on the formation of a complex between Coomassie blue and proteins in solution, leading to an increase in absorption at 595 nm which is proportional to the amount of protein in the solution.

All samples were evaluated in triplicate and independently. The last evaluation was performed in duplicate to increase the number of results and decrease the inherent variation in hair.

Mean values and standard deviations (SD) were calculated.

Results:

The results obtained have been compiled in Table 4 below.

Table 4: Bradford analysis of protein degradation

Sample Protein pg / mg of hair Average Standard Deviation Average in% compared to N NOT 10.34 12.77 * ± 1.74 - 13,11 13,28 14.37 S 12.94 24.27 ± 11.30 89.97 14.31 35.74 36.14 PI 7.57 11.08 * ± 4.68 -13.27 13.13 6.31 17.3 P2 5.73 14.66 * ± 5.2 14.77 11.46 19.85 19.46 RI 8.9 13.3 * ± 4.6 4.12 11.11 12.64 20.56 R2 11.94 19.36 ± 10.38 51.52 7.75 27.7 30.59

* p <0.05 with respect to S

In the column "Average in% compared to N", the positive numbers indicate an increase in protein degradation and the negative numbers indicate a decrease in protein degradation.

The results relating to the average protein concentration in pg / mg of hair for each of the conditions tested are more particularly illustrated in Figure 13. Also, the results relating to the average difference (decrease / increase) in% of protein degradation for hair stressed by UV and hair treated with the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention pre- or post-UV irradiation with respect to the control condition (untreated and unstressed hair, = N) are illustrated in Figure 14.

The results thus obtained, and as illustrated more particularly in Figures 15 and 16, show that when the hair is irradiated without any treatment (S), there is an increase in the degradation of proteins (+ 89.97%) by compared to the non-irradiated sample (N).

On the other hand, in all the other groups with treatment and irradiation (PI, P2, RI and R2), protein degradation is reduced, at different intensities.

PI, P2 and RI treatments lead to a strong decrease in protein degradation (11.08, 14.66 and 13.30 pg / mg of hair respectively) compared to the condition in which the hair is irradiated without any treatment (S ), with levels similar to that of sample N (12.77 pg / mg of hair).

The results obtained confirm that irradiation increases protein degradation, and that PI, P2 and RI treatments protect and repair hair from UV radiation.

The R2 treatment samples do not show statistically significant differences, but show a tendency to decrease.

conclusions:

The Bradford test reveals that UV irradiation increases protein degradation, up to almost 90% compared to the non-irradiated sample (Figures 15 and 16).

The two protective treatments with irradiated samples (PI, P2) demonstrated, in a statistically significant manner, a significant reduction in protein degradation compared to samples S (irradiated and untreated), respectively -13.27% and 14 , 77% as illustrated in Figure 14, comparable with sample N and therefore a protection of 103.34% as illustrated in Figure 15 (for PI).

The repairing effect was only statistically significant with the RI treatment (keratin substitute of plant origin at a concentration of 0.5%) with which a result comparable to that of sample N and a repair of 85 is obtained, 85% as shown in Figure 16.

In contrast, the R2 sample shows a weak restorative effect, which is not statistically significant.

Better protective and repairing results (or protein antioxidants) have thus been obtained by using the keratin substitute of plant origin according to the invention at the lowest concentration tested (0.5% compared to 1.126%) in the protocols. protection and repair.

In conclusion, this study clearly indicates that the vegetable keratin substitute or "vegetable keratin" used at a concentration of at least 0.5% reduces the effects of UV irradiation, by reducing the protein degradation favored by l exposure to UV rays and returning to normal levels after exposure. This effect is all the more important as a protective than repairing effect.

Claims (10)

1. Vegetable keratin substitute, characterized in that it comprises arginine and protein extracts from wheat and / or rice and / or moringa. 2. Vegetable keratin substitute according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises arginine and protein extracts from wheat, rice and moringa. 3. Keratin substitute of vegetable origin according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least 10% of arginine, preferably at least 30%, by weight relative to the weight of total natural amino acids of said vegetable keratin substitute. 4. Cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, a keratin substitute of plant origin according to one of claims 1 to 3. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it comprises at least 0.005% of arginine, and at least 0.01% of wheat protein extract and / or at least 0.01% of protein extract rice, and / or at least 0.005% of moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01 and 2% of arginine and between 0.1 and 5% of wheat protein extract , and / or between 0.1 and 5% of rice protein extract, and / or between 0.01 and 5% of moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises between 0.01 and 0.5% of arginine, between 0.1 and 2% of wheat protein extract, between 0.1 and 2% d protein extract of rice, and between 0.01 and 0.5% of moringa protein extract, by weight of the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that it comprises between 0.05 and 10% of keratin substitute of vegetable origin, preferably between 0.25 and 1.126%, by weight of the total weight of composition. 8. Composition according to one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that it is formulated in a form suitable for being applied topically to the skin, the scalp and / or the integuments, preferably in the form of shampoo, before- shampoo, conditioner, mask, serum, cream or 5 lotion. 9. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 4 to 8, for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments, and preferably the hair. 10. Cosmetic use according to claim 9, to protect the hair fibers, repair the hair cuticle, facilitate disentangling and / or bring suppleness, softness and shine to the hair.