JP2021528501A - Enzymatic systems, cosmetic compositions for the treatment of capillary fibers, methods of cosmetic treatment of capillary fibers, methods for clipping peptide links of capillary proteins, and systemic use. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an enzyme system, a cosmetic composition for treating hair fibers, a method for cosmetically treating hair fibers, a method for cleaving peptide bonds of hair fiber proteins, and the use of enzyme systems. ..

Description

The present invention relates to enzymatic systems, cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair fibers, methods of cosmetic treatment of hair fibers, and methods for cleaving peptide bonds of hair fiber proteins, and the use of systems. enzyme.

Since the 18th century, chemical compounds and heat sources have been used to alter the curvature of hair fibers.

Cosmetic formulations are developed on the basis of sulfites and sulfites, hydroxides (sodium, potassium, lithium, guanidine) and thioglycolates (ammonium and monoethanolamine) to reduce volume, smooth and complete. Form a curl composed of.

However, the use of alkaline, reducing, and / or oxidants for straightening not only alters the fiber structure, but also damages the cuticle or the entire fiber, altering the properties of the hair and making it more brittle. increase. Bright and fragile.

These damages are caused by two main effects. (1) Removal of fatty acid layer (18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA), etc.) covalently bound to the cuticle. (2) Rearrangement of the original amino acid structure of hair.

Removing the lipid layer that slows the penetration of water into the fibers affects the shine of the hair and makes it more susceptible to static electricity caused by moisture.

Orthodontics consists of breaking chemical bonds temporarily or permanently. These bonds serve to maintain the structure of the keratin molecule in its original form.

Overall, current technologies such as cysteamine HCl treatment break down hydrogen bonds, van der Wall, and disulfide bonds that are considered strong (shared) when compared to ionic forces. Breaking the disulfide bond allows the hair to be straightened and the fibers of the hair changed to shake. The disulfide bond (-CH _2- S-S-CH _2- ) is present in the hair through the bond of two adjacent cysteine residues, is highly susceptible to oxidation and reduction, and has a high cysteine content. Contributes with quantity With changes in capillary structure.

Hydroxide-based technology breaks down one-third of the cysteine present in the hair structure and converts _{it to lanthionine (-CH 2-} S-CH _2-). The difference between cystine and lanthionine is the loss of sulfur atoms, which weaken the fibers of the hair. Thiols (RSHs) are selective for disrupting capillary structure, reacting only with cystine bonds and disrupting disulfide bonds, without forming lanthionine compounds.

In the search for new compounds, the cosmetics industry has developed chemical bonds called "soft" compared to what has been practiced since then. It can be applied to traditional chemicals without causing the problem of hair fiber breakage. A product that can accelerate straightening, but does not have the same durability in both cleaning and humidity.

Such products are based on structures such as methylene glycol, glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid, oxoacetamide, PVM / MA copolymers (methyl vinyl ether copolymers and maleic anhydride), polyamide-1, and amino acids.

There are also treatments on the market that promise to straighten and dye your hair. They are called "smooth and dye" products, especially those that are based on thioglycolates and employ a multi-step procedure. In addition, we handle products that require smoothing and dyeing ingredients to be mixed separately, discarded and mixed only during processing.

The need for this separate formulation is due to the chemical incompatibility between the orthodontic assets and the dyes for dyeing the hair fibers, and the loss of performance caused by previous mixing.

Therefore, there is a technical need to obtain a cosmetic formulation capable of simultaneously smoothing and dyeing hair fibers, which includes both straightening and dyeing assets placed in the same composition without need, and before treatment. Mix them in.

All products known to date on the market, especially those listed above, have drawbacks.

Thioglycolate-based formulations, when applied to hair fibers, generally have a characteristic and unpleasant odor and require the use of oxidation neutralizers such as hydrogen peroxide to interrupt the correction process.

Sulfites or bisulfites present the same problems as thioglycolates and are even less efficient.

Due to the high alkalinity of hydroxydose-based formulations, the product must be completely removed to form irreversible bonds to the hair and prevent damage to hair fibers and skin. Despite the alkalinity of the hydroxyd-based formulations, they are widely used due to their ability to straighten black hair, providing a lasting effect due to their relatively short application time. These formulations have few sensory benefits and can be irritating to the skin and scalp.

In addition, current technology requires conversion chemicals called "soft," but the drawbacks remain.
-Hair fibers often remain exposed to aggressive chemicals that release formaldehyde.
Depends on the extended contact time (chemical fiber) from -60 minutes to 120 minutes.
-The extreme pH of performance is as low as about 1-2.5 and as high as about 8-13.
-Causes high irritation to the scalp.
-They damage the hair fibers, making them weak, brittle and brittle.
-Because of incompatibilities with other technologies (hydroxides, thiols, bleach, oxidative chemical color changes of fibers, etc.), it should be carefully evaluated to apply different techniques to the same hair.
-You can change the color of the hair fibers. And-presents the need for additional steps of neutralization with hydrogen peroxide.

Even compounds that appear to have a less damaging structure (polymers and free amino acids) do not promote the desired effect of altering fiber composition.

For all these reasons, there is still a need for capillary curvature modifiers that are effective, easy to apply, and less aggressive to hair fibers and the scalp.

-Infrared spectrum (ATR) of samples treated with enzyme system (TRAT, top) and control group (CTRL, bottom). -Refer to Capillary Curvature Level (I-VI). -Results of breaking strength of enzyme-treated hair (GMF) vs. cysteamine HCl, which is. Mean ± standard deviation. -Results of breaking strength of hair treated with an enzyme system (GMF) vs. treated with guanidine hydroxide 1. Mean ± standard deviation. -Results of breaking strength of hair treated with an enzyme system (GMF) vs. thioglycolic acid 1. Mean ± standard deviation. -Result of breaking strength of hair treated with enzyme system (GMF) vs. bleaching 1. Mean ± standard deviation. -Result of breaking strength of hair treated with enzyme system (GMF) Treated with antioxidative dye. Mean ± standard deviation. -The ΔE * ab values of treatment 1 (enzyme-based and then enzyme-based), 2 (oxidation-based and then enzyme-based hair), and 3 (cysteine HCl). -Macro visual effect on hair for volume loss when products containing the enzyme system of the present invention are applied to bleached hair on curves II, III, and IV. -The effect of corrections treated with the enzyme system of the invention and cysteamine hydrochloride compared to controls without treatment. -Effects of control wick, 5% enzyme system, 10% enzyme system, polyamide-1, amino acids, and cysteamine hydrochloride on volume loss and curl control after 24 hours exposure to no exposure and 80 ± 5% relative humidity And 25 ± 2 ° C. -Dry comb chart of damaged strands (discoloration). Mean ± standard deviation. -Wet comb chart of damaged strands (discoloration). Mean ± standard deviation. -Durability when washing treated tablets: (a) Control. (B) Enzyme system after 3, 7, 14, and 21 wash cycles with 12% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES). -Effect of curly control Submitted to treatment Hair: () Control. (B) Combing cream without enzyme system. (C) Comb the cream with an enzyme system without rinsing.

The current development uses an innovative enzyme system in a unique way to modify the capillary fiber conformation for volume reduction, anti-friction effect, alignment and straightening, and potential fiber staining. It is aimed at the field.

The enzymatic system of the present invention can change the conformation of hair fibers in a smooth manner and can act in a wide pH range (3.0 to 7.0), promoting hair straightening, fiber alignment and reduction. Present a solution to the current need to do. Significant sensory advantages (anti-friz, softness, and better conditioning sensation) compared to other available technologies, as evidenced by the combing studies whose results are shown in Figures 12 and 13. Volume with.

The term "alignment" and its variants in the context of the present invention make it possible to soften the natural shape of the hair, promote volume loss and increase the number of wavy strands (Fig. 2.II-III). Refers to the change in the curvature of the capillaries. Straight, curly hair (Fig. 2. IV-V) acquires a more open curl.

Therefore, the present invention relates to an enzymatic system including:
(A) At least one proteolytic enzyme.
(B) At least one reducing agent;
(C) At least one chelating agent;
(D) At least one hydrolyzed protein or a derivative thereof. And (E) optionally at least one cationic hair dye.

The enzyme system is preferably in the form of powder, but may be in the form of dispersion.

Protease, proteinase, and peptidase, also called proteolytic enzymes (a), are enzymes that cleave peptide bonds between protein amino acids. This process is called proteolytic cleavage.

Examples of proteolytic enzymes useful in the present invention are also cysteine proteinase enzymes called cysteine proteases that can be extracted from family plants, Pineapple, Papaya, Kiku and Kuwa. These enzymes include papain and its derivatives (papain, papaya proteinase Ω, kimopapine proteinase), bromelan and its derivatives (bromeran, stem bromelan, fruit bromelan), ficin and its derivatives, cardosin and its derivatives, or theirs. Selected from the group containing the mixture.

Preferably, a mixture of the enzyme papain and bromelan is used. These enzymes are widely used in the food sector, especially in the tenderness of meat. In addition, the enzyme can also be found in the pharmaceutical industry for medical purposes. However, the use of the above enzymes in cosmetics is surprisingly innovative.

In one embodiment of the invention, the proteolytic enzyme can be delivered with a cosmetically acceptable excipient. The excipient can be selected from maltodextrin or microcrystalline cellulose, which is particularly cosmetically acceptable. The excipient can be present in the range of 1-95% based on the total weight of the proteolytic enzyme.

The reducing agent (b) can be used to activate the enzyme, DL-cysteine, L-cysteine, cysteine hydrochloride, hydrochloride monohydrate, sulfite, siamid, reduced glutathione and thioglycol. Selected from the group containing rates, or mixtures thereof. ..

The chelating agent (c) useful in the present invention may be of synthetic or naturally occurring origin, the function of which is to prevent enzymatic inactivation, which is EDTA tetrasodium, EDTA disodium, diphosphonic acid. It can be selected from the group containing disodium disodium, tetrasodium diphosphonate. Disodium ethidroate, tetrasodium ethidroate, nitrotriacetic acid, diethylenetriamine pentaacetate, gallic acid, citric acid, oxalic acid, ethylenediamine succinic acid, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate or a mixture thereof.

The hydrolyzed protein (d) can be from Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, Torula plant-derived or yeast extracts, or a mixture thereof, with or without nucleotides and peptones added.

Hair dyes (e) can be prescribed with the enzyme system or disposed of separately. In the present invention, any synthetic cationic hair dye or natural plant-derived hair dye can be used. Some non-limiting examples are Basic Yellow 87, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 76, Basic Red 51, Basic Violet 2, Basic Brown 17, Basic Brown 16, Basic Blue 99, HC Blue 15 , Henna (Lawsonia Inermis), Cassia (Cassia Auriculata), Indigo (Indigofera Tinctoria) or a mixture thereof.

One of the advantages of the present invention is that the enzyme system may already contain the hair dye formulated with the system, as the dye is usually added immediately prior to application of the composition for dyeing. The enzymatic systems of the present invention allow the presence of hair dyes as they are compatible and do not cause a loss of performance in application.

Preferably, the enzyme system of the present invention comprises: (a) at least one proteolytic enzyme in an amount of 1-90% by weight. (B) 0.5-50% by weight of at least one reducing agent. (C) 0.5-10% by weight of at least one chelating agent. (D) 0.5-10% by weight of at least one hydrolyzed protein and / or its derivative. (E) 0-10% by weight of at least one cationic hair dye.

Mass Percentage (%) means% by mass based on the total weight of the composition.

The enzyme system of the present invention can be formulated in a wide pH range of 1 to 7.0, preferably 1 to 5.0.

The enzyme system of the present invention makes it possible to achieve optimal results for molding and dyeing hair fibers in shorter contact times and without loss of yield when compared to techniques known on the market. do.

Therefore, another aspect of the invention deals with the use of the enzymatic system described herein in the manufacture of cosmetic compositions useful for smoothing, aligning, reducing, and / or dyeing hair fibers.

The enzymatic system described here can be used to achieve optimal volume reduction, alignment, and smoothing effects without loss of yield.

Moreover, the enzymatic system of the present invention is free of animal-derived ingredients, has mild effects, is not a formaldehyde donor, and has no potential for primary accumulated skin irritation and skin sensitization. In addition, it is highly compatible with other existing chemicals.

Currently, there is a technique called smooth, but long contact times with hair fibers (about 60-120 minutes) can cause irritation, fiber color change, and the need for hydrogen peroxide neutralization. I have.

By the expression "smooth" and its variants, it is understood that in the context of the present invention, the contact time between the formulation and the hair fibers is not high (acting within 15-60 minutes, preferably within 30 minutes at maximum). NS. ), The formulation causes a color change or attacks the damaged or undamaged hair fibers, i.e., unused hair fibers, or previously chemically treated hair fibers. Can be applied without.

For the good results obtained by applying the enzyme system of the present invention to capillary fibers, we sought to understand the mechanism of action involved.

Changes in hair conformation can be assessed using spectroscopic techniques. In order to understand the mechanism of action, spectroscopic analysis was performed by attenuation of the total reflectance of infrared rays by Fourier transform (FTIR-ATR). This technique evaluates the structure of molecular vibrations for inspecting hair after treatment with the product containing the enzyme system of the present invention, and the disulfide bond with the enzyme system and the chemical interaction with the amine group. Allows to be characterized.

By visually inspecting the infrared spectrum (ATR) of the sample, we were able to understand the mechanism of action and the changes observed in the protein (Fig. 1).

The enzyme system of the present invention preferentially cleaves the substituted α-amino group of the peptide bond present in the hair fiber. The cysteine proteinase enzyme cleaves the peptide bond by forming a thioester bond between the acyl group of the hair protein and the sulfhydryl group of the cysteine residue present at the active enzyme site. This analysis showed that, unlike other products on the market for correcting the curvature of capillaries, the enzymatic system does not cause oxidation of hair cystine due to the cleavage of disulfide bonds.

Thus, it is a peptide bond from a capillary fiber protein that comprises applying the enzyme system of the invention to the fiber to form a thioester bond with the acyl group of the protein. Configure a method for disconnecting. Sulfhydryl group of cysteine residue present at the active enzyme site.

Furthermore, the use of the enzyme system in the cleavage of the peptide bond of the hair fiber protein by the formation of a thioester bond between the acyl group of the protein and the sulfhydryl group of the cysteine residue present in the active site of the enzyme is also one aspect of the book. Of invention.

The enzymatic system of the present invention can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations made available on the cosmetics market for application to hair fibers.

Accordingly, the present invention also relates to cosmetic compositions for treating hair fibers, including the enzymatic systems described herein and cosmetically acceptable excipients.

The enzyme system can be incorporated into a cosmetic product at a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the product, depending on the level of curvature of the capillaries.

Due to the temperature sensitivity of the enzymatic system, addition to cosmetic compositions / formulations should be done at low temperatures, below 30 ° C, with or without glycols.

The use of glycol is a step in which the target technician knows how to handle it easily. This means that the higher the amount of powder incorporated into the composition, the more glycol may need to be added. If the production process is a low temperature composition, the enzyme system can be incorporated into water without the use of glycols.

The enzyme system can be added to a low pH, i.e., a formulation in the range of 1.0 to 7.0, preferably 1.0 to 5.0.

The final cosmetic composition can be in the form of a dispersion, liquid or cationic, nonionic or anionic emulsion.

Examples of cosmetic compositions are conditioners, cosmetic creams, styling creams and hair masks.

The final composition can be formulated over a wide pH range, ranging from 3.0 to 7.0, preferably over a pH range of 5.0 to 7.0.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition should have a pH adjusted in the range of 5.0-7.0 before being applied to the hair fibers. The preparation can be carried out using, for example, citric acid and salts thereof, lactic acid, aminomethyl propanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and ethidronic acid.

One of the main advantages of the present invention is to use the preparation in a wide pH range of 3.0 to 7.0, which is a safe range for application to the scalp, and there is little modification of the fiber structure. Less damage to fibers. Cuticle and fibrous cortex.

Another advantage of the enzymatic system of the present invention is compatibility with a wide variety of ingredients. Such high compatibility is feasible due to the wide pH range in which the system can be used.

Thus, a cosmetic composition comprising an enzyme system can include a variety of cosmetic excipients, among which the following ingredients used alone or in combination may be mentioned:
-Alkalinized and / or acidulants such as citric acid and salts thereof, lactic acid, aminomethyl propanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and ethidronic acid, alone or in combination.
-Stabilizers such as sodium metabisulfite, hydroxytoluene butyl and tocopherol acetate, alone or in combination;
-Preservatives such as dimethyloldimethylhydantoin (DMDM) hydantoin, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, butylene glycol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, gluconolactone and sodium benzoate, alone or in combination;
-Chelating agents such as EDTA tetrasodium, EDTA disodium, disodium diphosphonate, tetrasodium diphosphonate, disodium ethidronate, tetrasodium etidronate, nitrotriacetic acid, diethyltriamine pentaacetate, gallic acid, citric acid , Phosphonate and fitaric acid, alone or in combination;
-Anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, guar gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, fatty alcohols, xanthan gum and derivatives thereof, alone or in combination; and-glycols such as glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol, Alone or in combination,
-Among other normal things.

Another aspect of the present invention is a method of cosmetic treatment of hair fibers, including:
A cosmetically effective amount of a cosmetic composition containing the enzyme system of the present invention is applied directly to the hair fibers of interest for a period of time that can vary from up to about 15 minutes, preferably about 1 to 10 minutes at room temperature.
Maintaining contact between the hair fibers and the cosmetic composition, the contact time varies from about 15-60 minutes, preferably 30 minutes, after which the hair fibers are rinsed as needed to remove excess cosmetic composition. .. And optional heat treatment of the hair fibers at temperatures varying in the range of about 27-250 ° C to finish the cosmetological treatment.

In order to achieve the optimum result, the application of the cosmetic composition to the hair fibers is preferably carried out from the root to the tip by massaging the hair fibers.

Advantageously, the present invention eliminates the stage of neutralization with hydrogen peroxide commonly used in current technology.

The present invention allows a product to operate with a reduced contact time (about 15-60 minutes, preferably 30 minutes). The application time varies depending on the level of curvature of the capillaries, starting from 15 minutes, preferably 30-60 minutes.

Heat can also be applied (110-250 ° C) during the contact time (step b), and it is preferable to wrap the hair in foil or similar material.

After the contact time, the product can be removed from the hair and the hair can be heat treated using a hair and straightener (27-250 ° C).

The present invention will be exemplified in a non-limiting manner by the examples presented below.
example

Reference levels I-VI were created to assess effectiveness for the purpose of standardizing the level of hair bending (Figure 2).
Example 1-Preparation of enzyme system

The enzyme system in powder form was prepared by mixing its components: a-bromeran (75%); b-DL-Cysteine (5%); c-EDTA disodium (10%); completely D-yeast extract of the genus Saccharomyces (10%) at room temperature until homogenized. The ingredients were added separately in the order of the advertisement to the stainless steel reactor with shear.
Example 2-Preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising an enzyme system-conditioner

Cosmetic formulations containing the enzyme system are pre-prepared as follows: The enzyme system in powder form is initially 5 mass at a concentration of 10 mass%, using a mechanical stirrer with a shear helix. Mix with% propanediol. Until completely homogenized.

例３−機械的強度の評価 The conditioner preparation (Table 1 below) equipped with the enzyme system was prepared as follows. Using a mechanical stirrer with a shear helix, mix water, glycerin, and EDTA tetrasodium at 200 rpm. Next, hydroxyethyl cellulose is added little by little under constant stirring at 600 rpm. After complete homogenization (Phase A). Next, heat Phase A to 75 ° C. Melt Phase B (cetrimonium chloride, cetostearyl alcohol, berenyltrimony metasulfate, mineral oil, BHT) and add to Phase A at 75 ° C for 10 minutes with constant stirring at 1000 rpm. After this period, the formula cools. A preservative was added at 40 ° C., followed by dispersion of the enzyme system with propanediol with constant stirring at 600 rpm for 10 minutes. Finally, the pH of the formulation was adjusted to the range of 6.0-7. 0 with sodium hydroxide.

Example 3-Evaluation of mechanical strength

Level III curly hair (Figure 2) was used for mechanical strength studies. The entire experiment was performed in an air-conditioned environment (22 ± 2 ° C and 55 ± 5% relative humidity).

Changes in the strength of virgin hair fibers were evaluated when treated with the compositions of the invention and other chemicals already on the market.

The effects of enzymatic treatments were compared to the effects of chemicals already on the market: guanidine hydroxide, thioglycolates, HCl cysteamine, discoloration and oxidative dyes. The enzyme system was applied before and after other chemical treatments, covering all the ways in which the end consumer can apply the product.

For enzymatic treatment, a significant amount of capillary mask containing 10% of the enzymatic system was applied to the lock and massaged for 30 seconds. Next, I wrapped the core in aluminum foil. Thirty minutes after the product came into contact with the hair, it was rinsed until the product was completely removed. I finished my hair using hair and a straightener (60-250 ° C).

The capillary mask in question contained water, glycerin, EDTA, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimony chloride, cetostearyl alcohol, mineral oil, BHT (butylhydroxytoluene butylated) and preservatives. The application of commercially available chemical substances was carried out according to the following procedure.
(A) Guanidine hydroxide: The product was mixed with an activating liquid and a cosmetically effective amount of this mixture was applied to the hair and contacted for 15 minutes. Then it was removed with exposed shampoo. It was shown in foam color when all products were removed from the hair.
(B) Ammonia thioglycolate: A cosmetically effective amount was applied to the hair and contacted for 15 minutes. Rinse with running water until completely removed from the product, then apply a neutralizing cream containing hydrogen peroxide for 5 minutes. Rinse until the neutralizing cream is completely removed.
(C) Cysteamine HCl: A cosmetically effective amount was applied and contacted with the hair for 30 minutes. Rinse with running water until completely removed from the product and apply a neutralizing cream containing hydrogen peroxide for 5 minutes. Rinse until the neutralizing cream is completely removed.
(D) Bleaching: A 30 V mixture of bleached powder and hydrogen peroxide was prepared in a ratio of 1: 2, a cosmetically effective amount of this mixture was applied and contacted with hair wrapped in aluminum foil for 30 minutes. .. Rinse with running water until the product is completely removed.
(E) Oxidizing dye: The cream color was mixed with an oxidant, a cosmetically effective amount of this mixture was applied to the hair and allowed to contact for 40 minutes. Rinse with running water until the product is completely removed.

Analysis of the mechanical resistance of each process was performed three times using a universal experimental aircraft (EMIC). Fifty wires from each treated strand were evaluated and evaluated by light microscopy in the range of 50-70 μm in diameter. The capacity of the load cell is 5N. The displacement, breaking force and deformation of the wire were evaluated. Statistical analysis was performed using GraphPad Prism® 4.03 software. The ANOVA method was used and the Tukey posttest was followed with a 95% confidence interval.

Chemicals evaluated as a result of significantly lower breaking strength (gmf) than enzymatic systems show incompatibility when applying different chemicals to hair. Therefore, the importance of applying an enzymatic system before and after existing chemicals on the market is as follows: It was done in this study.

Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 show graphs of hair treated with a breaking strength (GMF) enzyme system, treated with cysteamine hydrochloric acid, guanidine hydroxide, thioglycolic acid, discoloration and oxidative dyes, respectively. Things.

According to the results obtained, the enzyme system was applied to all chemicals evaluated (guanidine hydroxylate,) whether applied before or after the chemical in question, including the result of improved mechanical resistance. Compatible with thioglycolates, cysteamine HCl, discoloration and oxidative dyes). For most evaluated chemicals.
Example 4-fading test.

A fading test was performed using Level II curly hair (Figure 2).

Three types of treatment were given to the hair.
Enzymatic treatment followed by oxidative coloring;
Treatment with oxidative dyes, then enzyme system; and as a benchmark for evaluation, treatment with oxidative dyes and then with cysteamine hydrochloride.

For treatment with the enzyme system of the present invention, a cosmetically significant amount of capillary masks containing a 10% enzyme system were applied to the tablets and massaged for 30 seconds.

The capillary mask in question contained water, glycerin, EDTA, cetrimonium chloride, berenyltrimonium chloride, cetostearyl alcohol, mineral oil, BHT (butylhydroxytoluene butylated) and preservatives.

Next, I wrapped the core in aluminum foil. Thirty minutes after the product came into contact with the hair, it was rinsed until the product was completely removed. I finished my hair using hair and a straightener (60-250 ° C).

After the treatment, the hair color was measured using a CM-3600 spectrophotometer, and the ΔE * ab between the control (oxidation dye only) and the treatments 1, 2 and 3 was measured. ΔE * ab corresponds to the overall color change. The greater the variation in absolute value, the greater the final color difference between the control and the hair lock.

Hair in treatments 1, 2 and 3 showed ΔE * ab values of 0.8, 2.25 and 8.51, respectively. Therefore, the enzyme system in question showed less fading before and after use when compared to the market technology for cysteine HCl (Fig. 8).

Since it does not promote the destruction of disulfide bonds in hair fibers, the enzymatic system of the present invention does not allow the use of shaking hair, has high compatibility with coloring chemistry, and fades before and after use when compared. And less compatible. Other market technologies.
Example 5-Alignment and smoothing test and volume reduction test.

Levels II, III, and IV of bleached curly hair were used to assess the alignment and smoothing effect of the enzyme system in question. The entire experiment was conducted in an air-conditioned environment (22 ° C, 55% relative humidity). For each process, 10 digital images with a resolution of 3.1 Mpixels were acquired while keeping the focal length and brightness constant.

The likelihood of correction was associated with increased tablet length after application of treatment in relation to untreated hair. The lock length (cm) was determined by analyzing digital images. The results were statistically analyzed using the bimodal, paired student's t-test method with 95% confidence intervals.

Figure 9 shows the macrovisual effects of hair on alignment and straightening when applied to bleached hair with products containing enzyme systems on curves II, III, and IV.

The three-curve locks showed significantly higher length values than the pretreatment locks, demonstrating the alignment and smoothing effect of the treatment.

Compare the effectiveness of the technology in question with alignment, volume reduction and smoothing with other technologies on the market (carbocisteine, amino acids, cysteine, thioglycolate, hydrolyzed keratin, PVM / MA copolymer / polyamide-1). bottom. The technology in question showed satisfactory value when compared to these technologies.

Figure 10 shows the straightening effect of enzyme-based and cysteamine hydrochloride-treated hair compared to untreated controls.

A level III bleached curly hair was used to assess the volume reduction effect. Photographs were recorded after treatment with enzyme system 10%, 5%, polymers, amino acids, and cysteamine hydrochloride (before exposure). The hair was then exposed to an environment with high relative humidity (80 ± 5%) and room temperature (25 ± 2 ° C). Photographs were recorded 8 hours, 16 hours, and 24 hours after exposure in this controlled environment.

FIG. 11 shows the state after exposing the control fuse, enzyme system 5%, enzyme system 10%, polyamide-1, amino acid, and cysteamine hydrochloride to an environment with high relative humidity for 24 hours without exposing them to water. .. When compared to polyamide-1 and amino acids, the enzymatic system showed volume reduction and excellent curl control.
Example 6-Combing test in dry and wet conditions.

Wet and dry combing tests were performed using virgin and damaged lock (due to discoloration process) level III curly hair. For enzymatic treatment, a significant amount of capillary mask containing 10% of the enzymatic system was applied to the lock and massaged for 30 seconds. The capillary mask in question contained water, glycerin, EDTA, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimony chloride, cetostearyl alcohol, mineral oil, BHT (butylhydroxytoluene butylated) and preservatives. Next, I wrapped the core in aluminum foil. Thirty minutes after the product came into contact with the hair, it was rinsed until the product was completely removed. I finished my hair using hair and a straightener (60-250 ° C).

This study was conducted by comparing: 1-
Enzymatic treatment.
2-Treatment with cysteine HCl as a benchmark for evaluation.
3-Control (no treatment)

After the treatment, combing measurements (3 times) were performed on a dry core and a wet core using Dia-Stron.

The results obtained from the evaluation of dry hair combability (Fig. 12) can be correlated with the smoothness of the hair surface. The smaller the dry work (energy, joules), the better the sensation.

The results obtained from the evaluation of wet hair combing (Fig. 13) can be correlated with nutrition. Evaluating with other tests (eg mechanical strength) can be used to infer how much the fiber is damaged or nourished. Hair structure is more fragile when wet than when dry.

Regarding the working value in the dry state (Fig. 12), the untreated virgin hair strands showed the highest working values compared to the other strands. Enzymatically treated virgin hair strands showed lower operating values than products containing untreated strands, controls, and cysteine HCl. Products containing cysteamine hydrochloride showed higher working values than other products, except in the untreated group. Cores damaged without treatment showed higher working values than control and enzyme systems. Therefore, products containing cysteamine HCl had the highest value of work, and enzyme-treated tablets had the lowest value of dry work.

In terms of working values in wet conditions (Figure 13), untreated damaged virgin hair strands showed the highest values, followed by products containing cysteine HCl, control, and enzyme systems, respectively. rice field.

Therefore, when treated with an enzymatic system, both unused and damaged wicks had lower working values in both wet and dry conditions. After treatment, it can be concluded that the tablets are softer and more nutritious. The technique of the present invention has significant sensory benefits in dry and wet conditions, as demonstrated by combing tests, as it is a smoother chemical and contains hydrolyzed proteins.
Example 7-Wash resistance test.

Curvature III virgin hair curls (Figure 2) were treated with a conditioner containing a 10% enzymatic system. The treated wicks were subjected to 21 wash cycles with a 12% (w / w) solution of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES).

The results are shown in Figure 14. Photos were taken after each wash cycle. After processing (b). After 3 wash cycles (c); after 7 wash cycles (d); after 14 wash cycles (e); after 21 wash cycles (f). The cleaning durability was evaluated by analyzing the images.

Therefore, it is observed that the technique of the present invention showed durability against cleaning (up to 7 cycles) and humidity (Fig. 14). This durability is advantageous when compared to polymers and amino acids, which have shorter cleaning durability.
Example 8-Preparation of Cosmetic Composition Containing Enzyme System-Leave on Cream

Cosmetic formulations containing the enzyme system of the present invention are pre-prepared as follows: The enzyme system in powder form is at a concentration of 1% by weight, first using a mechanical propeller stirrer to 5 mass. Mix with% propanediol. Shear until fully homogenized.

Leave-on cream combination) Enzyme system (Table 2 below) was prepared as follows. Using a mechanical stirrer with a shear helix, mix water, glycerin, and EDTA tetrasodium at 200 rpm. Next, hydroxyethyl cellulose is added little by little under constant stirring at 600 rpm. After complete homogenization (Phase A). Next, heat Phase A to 75 ° C. Melt Phase B (cetrimonium chloride, cetostearyl alcohol, berenyltrimony metasulfate, mineral oil, BHT) and add to Phase A at 75 ° C for 10 minutes with constant stirring at 1000 rpm. After this period, the formula cools. A preservative was added at 40 ° C., followed by dispersion of the enzyme system with propanediol with constant stirring at 600 rpm for 10 minutes. Finally, the pH of the formulation was adjusted to the range of 6.0-7.0 with sodium hydroxide.

Example 9-Evaluation of hair frizz control exposed to high relative humidity

Curly hair of level IV (Fig. 2) was used to evaluate the suppression of curling.

For treatment with an enzyme system in the form of leave-on combing cream, a significant amount of combing cream containing a 1% enzyme system (Table 2) was applied to the locks and massaged for 30 seconds. Then, the hair was left at room temperature for 1 hour without rinsing. The hair was then placed in a humidity controlled chamber (25 ° C, 80% RH) for 24 hours. The hair was then removed from the chamber and images were recorded.

In addition to the enzyme treatment, hair treated with combing cream (Table 2) but not added with an enzyme system, and hair washed with water (control) were evaluated.

ImageJ image software was used to calculate the increase in the ratio of curly controls to controls.

FIG. 15 shows the effect of curly control on control hair, cream-treated hair for combing without an enzyme system, and cream-treated hair for combing with an enzyme system.

After image processing and approximate calculation of lock volume, cream-treated hair and enzyme-treated hair for combing without enzyme system had 33% and 76.8% curly control, respectively. It can be concluded that it was presented when compared. Control.

Claims (27)

Enzymatic systems characterized by the fact that they include:
(A) At least one proteolytic enzyme.
(B) At least one reducing agent;
(C) At least one chelating agent;
(D) At least one hydrolyzed protein or a derivative thereof. And (E) optionally at least one hair dye. The enzyme system according to claim 1, characterized in that the proteolytic enzyme (a) is extracted from plants of the family Bromeliad, Carica, Astera and Mora. Claimed, characterized in that the enzyme is selected from the group comprising papain and its derivatives (papain, papaya proteinase Ω, kimopapine proteinase), bromelan and its derivatives (bromeran, stem bromelan, fruit bromelan). Item 2. The enzyme system according to item 2. , Ficin and its derivatives, cardosin and its derivatives, or mixtures thereof. The enzyme system according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the proteolytic enzyme (a) is carried by a cosmetically acceptable excipient. In the enzyme system according to claim 1, the reducing agent (b) contains DL-cysteine, L-cysteine, cysteine hydrochloride, hydrochloride monohydrate, sulfite, siamid, reduced glutathione, and thioglycolate. It is characterized by being selected from a group. , Or a mixture thereof. The chelating agent (c) is said to be synthetic or naturally derived and selected from the group comprising EDTA tetrasodium, EDTA disodium, disodium diphosphonate, tetrasodium diphosphonate, disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate. The enzyme system according to claim 1, characterized in fact. , Nitrotriacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, gallic acid, citric acid, oxalic acid, ethylenediaminosuccinic acid, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate or mixtures thereof. The enzyme system according to claim 1 is of plant origin from the genus Saccharomyces, Kluyberomyces and Torula, regardless of whether the hydrolyzed protein (d) is added with nucleotides and peptone, or a mixture thereof. Or characterized by the fact that it is a yeast extract. The first aspect of the present invention, wherein the hair die (e) is a synthetic cationic hair die or a natural hair die derived from a plant selected from the group including Basic Yellow 87, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Orange 31, and Basic. Enzyme system. Red 76, Basic Red 51, Basic Violet 2, Basic Brown 17, Basic Brown 16, Basic Blue 99, HC Blue 15, Henna (Lawsonia Inermis), Cassia (Cassia Auriculata), Indigo (Indigo Ferra Tinkutoria) or A mixture of them. The enzyme system of claim 1, characterized in that it comprises: (A) 1-90% by mass of at least one proteolytic enzyme. (B) 0.5-50% by weight of at least one reducing agent. (C) 0.5-10% by weight of at least one chelating agent. (D) 0.5-10% by weight of at least one hydrolyzed protein and / or its derivative. (E) 0-10% by weight of at least one cationic hair dye. The enzyme system according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is in the form of a powder or a dispersion. The enzyme system according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the pH is in the range of 1 to 7.0, preferably 1 to 5.0. A cosmetic composition for the treatment of hair fibers, which comprises the enzyme system according to one of claims 1 to 11 and a cosmetically acceptable excipient. The cosmetic composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it contains 1 to 20% by weight of an enzyme system based on the total mass of the composition. Claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the alkalizing and / or acidulant selected from the group comprising citric acid and salts thereof, lactic acid, aminomethyl, alone or in combination, comprises the following excipients: The cosmetic composition according to any one of. Propanol, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and etidronic acid, alone or in combination.
-Stabilizers selected from the group containing sodium metabisulfite, hydroxytoluene butyl and tocopherol acetate alone or in combination;
-Dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin (DMDM) A preservative selected from the group containing hydantoin, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, butylene glycol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, gluconolactone and sodium benzoate alone or in combination;
-Chelating agent, EDTA tetrasodium, EDTA disodium, disodium diphosphonate, tetrasodium diphosphonate, disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate, nitrotriacetic acid, diethylenetriamine pentaacetate, gallic acid, citric acid, phynic acid and shu Sodium selected from the acid-containing group, alone or in combination;
-Anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, guar gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, fatty alcohols, xanthan gum and derivatives thereof, alone or in combination; and-glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, alone or in combination. Glycol, selected from the group containing. The cosmetic composition according to one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that it has a pH in the range of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 5.0 to 7.0. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 12-15, characterized in that it is in the form of a dispersion, liquid or cationic, nonionic or anionic emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, characterized in that it is a conditioner, a cosmetological treatment cream, a styling cream or a hair mask. A method of cosmetic treatment of hair fibers, characterized by the fact that it includes:
a. Applying a cosmetically effective amount of the cosmetic composition containing the enzyme system according to any one of claims 1 to 11 directly to the hair fibers for a period of up to about 15 minutes, preferably about 1 minute. .. -10 minutes at room temperature.
b. The contact between the hair fibers and the cosmetic composition is maintained, the contact time varies for about 15-60 minutes, after which the hair fibers are rinsed as needed to remove excess cosmetic composition. And c. Optional heat treatment of hair fibers at temperatures varying in the range of about 27-250 ° C to finish the cosmetological treatment. 18. The method of claim 18, characterized in that the contact time of step (b) is about 30 minutes. 18. The method of claim 18, characterized in that step (b) occurs by applying heat at a temperature in the range 110-250 ° C. 18. The method of claim 18, wherein the hair fibers being treated are damaged or undamaged fibers. A method for cleaving a peptide bond of a hair fiber protein, wherein an enzyme system is applied to the fiber as defined in one of claims 1-11 to the acyl group and active enzyme site of the protein. Sulfhydryl groups of cysteine residues present. The use of an enzymatic system as defined in one of claims 1-11 is the production of a cosmetic composition in which it is useful for straightening, aligning, reducing frizz, reducing volume, and / or dyeing hair fibers. Characterized by the fact that it is in. 23. The use characterized by the fact that the enzyme system is optionally added glycol and added to the cosmetic composition at a temperature below 30 ° C. 23. The use according to claim 23, characterized in that the enzyme system is added to the cosmetic composition in a pH range of 1.0 to 7.0, preferably pH 1.0 to 5.0. The use according to any one of claims 23 to 25, wherein the cosmetic composition is a conditioner, treatment cream, styling cream or hair mask. The use of the enzyme system according to any one of claims 1 to 11 is characterized in that the peptide bond of the hair fiber protein is cleaved by forming a thioester bond between the acyl group of the protein and the sulfhydryl group. And. Cysteine residue present at the active enzyme site.

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