FR2849381A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological skin-treatment composition, useful e.g. for sun-tanning, comprises a complex of an endonuclease with a nucleotide or nucleic acid - Google Patents

Cosmetic or dermatological skin-treatment composition, useful e.g. for sun-tanning, comprises a complex of an endonuclease with a nucleotide or nucleic acid Download PDF

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FR2849381A1
FR2849381A1 FR0216872A FR0216872A FR2849381A1 FR 2849381 A1 FR2849381 A1 FR 2849381A1 FR 0216872 A FR0216872 A FR 0216872A FR 0216872 A FR0216872 A FR 0216872A FR 2849381 A1 FR2849381 A1 FR 2849381A1
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cosmetic
skin
composition
nucleotide
nucleic acid
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FR2849381B1 (en
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Jean Noel Thorel
Cerard Redziniak
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Priority to EP03814486.1A priority patent/EP1581177B1/en
Priority to PCT/FR2003/003883 priority patent/WO2004060393A2/en
Priority to AU2003303607A priority patent/AU2003303607A1/en
Priority to US10/537,816 priority patent/US20060029563A1/en
Priority to JP2004564302A priority patent/JP4249710B2/en
Priority to KR1020057012464A priority patent/KR101007637B1/en
Priority to ES03814486.1T priority patent/ES2668072T3/en
Priority to CA2528101A priority patent/CA2528101C/en
Publication of FR2849381A1 publication Critical patent/FR2849381A1/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/04Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/08Peptides having 5 to 11 amino acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004Aftersun preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/16Peptides having more than 20 amino acids; Gastrins; Somatostatins; Melanotropins; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/17Peptides having more than 20 amino acids; Gastrins; Somatostatins; Melanotropins; Derivatives thereof from animals; from humans
    • A61K38/33Peptides having more than 20 amino acids; Gastrins; Somatostatins; Melanotropins; Derivatives thereof from animals; from humans derived from pro-opiomelanocortin, pro-enkephalin or pro-dynorphin
    • A61K38/34Melanocyte stimulating hormone [MSH], e.g. alpha- or beta-melanotropin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/16Peptides having more than 20 amino acids; Gastrins; Somatostatins; Melanotropins; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/43Enzymes; Proenzymes; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/46Hydrolases (3)
    • A61K38/465Hydrolases (3) acting on ester bonds (3.1), e.g. lipases, ribonucleases
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/16Peptides having more than 20 amino acids; Gastrins; Somatostatins; Melanotropins; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/43Enzymes; Proenzymes; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/51Lyases (4)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66Enzymes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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  • Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Immunology (AREA)
  • Gastroenterology & Hepatology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Proteomics, Peptides & Aminoacids (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Zoology (AREA)
  • Endocrinology (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

A cosmetic and/or dermo-cosmetic composition (A) comprises an active complex (I), between a peptide and/or protein, i.e. an endonuclease (Ia) and a (poly)nucleotide and/or nucleic acid (Ib). Cosmetic and/or dermo-cosmetic composition (A) contains an active complex (I) between at least one peptide and/or protein, i.e. an endonuclease (Ia) and at least one (poly)nucleotide and/or nucleic acid (Ib). (Ib) is adenosine (A), guanosine (G), cytosine (C), uridine (U) or thymidine (T) monophosphates; deoxy forms of T, A, C or G monophosphates; A, G, U or T triphosphates; guanosine tetraphosphate; IP3; hydrolyzates of DNA and/or RNA; UDP-glucose-galactose or UDP-N-acetyl glucosamine; G diphosphate-mannose, or C monophosphate-N-acetylneuraminic acid.

Description

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COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE, SOLAIRE ET BIO-BRONZANTE
La présente invention concerne les compositions à usage topique, destinées au traitement superficiel ou systémique des parties superficielles du corps humain ou animal, par exemple de la peau.
COSMETIC, SUN AND BIO-TANNING COMPOSITION
The present invention relates to compositions for topical use, intended for surface or systemic treatment of surface parts of the human or animal body, for example of the skin.

La peau constitue l'enveloppe de revêtement du corps, le protégeant des agressions extérieures. Outre ses caractéristiques physiques, la peau est composée de différents composés chimiques, parmi lesquels : - l'eau qui constitue environ 70% de la composition de la peau, sa répartition varie selon les différentes couches cutanées, l'hypoderme étant le plus hydraté ; - des sels minéraux parmi lesquels on distingue les sels de métaux et les sels de métalloïdes ; - des protides comprenant des acides aminés comme la tyrosine, la cystine, l'hydroxyproline , la valine, et des protéines comme les collagènes, l'élastine, la kératine, mais également des enzymes, et des hormones ; - des acides nucléiques, à savoir ADN et/ou ARN ; - des lipides regroupant les sphingolipides, le cholestérol, les acides gras, les triglycérides et les prostaglandines ; - des glucides, etc ;
La plupart de ces substances ou composés, ainsi que beaucoup d'autres plus complexes forment le film cutané de surface, ou film hydrolipidique, défini comme une émulsion de type eau dans huile recouvrant la couche cornée.
The skin constitutes the covering envelope of the body, protecting it from external aggressions. In addition to its physical characteristics, the skin is composed of various chemical compounds, among which: - water which constitutes approximately 70% of the composition of the skin, its distribution varies according to the various cutaneous layers, the hypodermis being the most hydrated; - mineral salts among which a distinction is made between metal salts and metalloid salts; - proteins comprising amino acids such as tyrosine, cystine, hydroxyproline, valine, and proteins such as collagens, elastin, keratin, but also enzymes, and hormones; - nucleic acids, namely DNA and / or RNA; - lipids grouping together sphingolipids, cholesterol, fatty acids, triglycerides and prostaglandins; - carbohydrates, etc;
Most of these substances or compounds, as well as many more complex ones, form the surface skin film, or hydrolipidic film, defined as a water-in-oil emulsion covering the stratum corneum.

Le rôle de ce film consiste à maintenir l'hydratation de la couche cornée, maintenir l'acidité cutanée, et jouer un rôle de barrière contre les agressions extérieures et les agents pathogènes.  The role of this film is to maintain the hydration of the stratum corneum, maintain skin acidity, and play a role of barrier against external aggressions and pathogens.

En surface, la peau est constituée de l'épiderme qui est un tissu épithélial stratifié, c'est-à-dire un ensemble de cellules semblables entre elles réunies pour accomplir une même fonction ; en couche intermédiaire elle est constituée du derme, tissu conjonctif, et en couche profonde de l'hypoderme, tissu conjonctif adipeux.  On the surface, the skin is made up of the epidermis which is a stratified epithelial tissue, that is to say a set of cells similar to each other united to perform the same function; in the intermediate layer it consists of the dermis, connective tissue, and in the deep layer of the hypodermis, adipose connective tissue.

L'épiderme est un épithélium de revêtement cutané dont la fonction majeure est de protéger ; il est constitué de quatre types de cellules, les cellules de Langerhans, les cellules de Merckel, les mélanocytes, les kératinocytes.  The epidermis is a skin covering epithelium whose main function is to protect; it is made up of four types of cells, Langerhans cells, Merckel cells, melanocytes, keratinocytes.

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Les kératinocytes, cellules épidermiques les plus nombreuses jouent un rôle essentiel dans le phénomène de kératinisation de l'épiderme, elles sont réparties sur six couches dont les trois les plus proches de la surface de la peau sont, le stratum lucidum, le stratum cornéum et le stratum disjunctum, qui forment l'enveloppe superficielle dans laquelle la majorité des produits cosmétiques et ou dermatologiques exercent leur activité.  The keratinocytes, the most numerous epidermal cells play an essential role in the phenomenon of keratinization of the epidermis, they are distributed over six layers of which the three closest to the surface of the skin are, the stratum lucidum, the stratum cornea and the stratum disjunctum, which form the surface envelope in which the majority of cosmetic and or dermatological products exercise their activity.

On attribue classiquement trois rôles à cette couche cornée, notamment un rôle métabolique, les deux autres rôles étant la régulation thermique et la protection des organes internes.  We classically assign three roles to this stratum corneum, including a metabolic role, the other two roles being thermal regulation and the protection of internal organs.

L'épiderme comme tous les autres tissus possède l'ensemble des systèmes enzymatiques nécessaires au maintien des activités cellulaires, telles que par exemple, le métabolisme de base, la respiration et la division cellulaire.  The epidermis, like all other tissues, has all of the enzymatic systems necessary for maintaining cellular activities, such as, for example, basic metabolism, respiration and cell division.

Ces systèmes enzymatiques participent à l'élaboration de la fonction principale, c'est-à-dire établir une barrière pour protéger la peau des atteintes de l'environnement et cette fonction est assurée en grande partie par le stratum cornéum. L'épiderme doit aussi protéger l'organisme des rayonnements ultraviolets, et cette fonction est assurée par le système pigmentaire. These enzymatic systems participate in the development of the main function, that is to say, to establish a barrier to protect the skin from environmental damage, and this function is largely ensured by the stratum corneum. The epidermis must also protect the body from ultraviolet radiation, and this function is performed by the pigment system.

Les enzymes sont des macromolécules protéiques, agissant comme des catalyseurs biochimiques, leurs principales propriétés étant d'accélérer les réactions du monde vivant La plupart des enzymes contenues dans la couche cornée catalyse des dégradations, ce sont principalement des hydrolases.  Enzymes are protein macromolecules, acting as biochemical catalysts, their main properties being to accelerate the reactions of the living world. Most of the enzymes contained in the stratum corneum catalyze degradations, they are mainly hydrolases.

Mais si la peau constitue une barrière très efficace, elle peut cependant être traversée par de petites quantités de substances lipophiles, capables de pénétrer dans les couches cornées ; en fonction de leur hydrophilie, ces substances pourront diffuser plus profondément et ainsi avoir une activité systémique.  But if the skin constitutes a very effective barrier, it can however be crossed by small quantities of lipophilic substances, capable of penetrating into the horny layers; depending on their hydrophilicity, these substances may diffuse more deeply and thus have systemic activity.

Les mécanismes de la pénétration de principes actifs aux différents niveaux de la peau sont très complexes, ils dépendent cependant des propriétés physico-chimiques des principes actifs et des excipients utilisés dans les formulations, de l'état de la peau et du mode d'application.  The mechanisms of the penetration of active ingredients at different levels of the skin are very complex, they however depend on the physicochemical properties of the active ingredients and the excipients used in the formulations, the state of the skin and the mode of application. .

La présente invention procède du concept inventif suivant.  The present invention proceeds from the following inventive concept.

La réponse aux différents disfonctionnements de la peau se trouve dans la peau elle-même. La peau possède en elle-même toutes les réponses pour lutter contre les agressions extérieures, pour se renouveler, pour corriger les petites imperfections qui apparaissent.  The answer to the various skin dysfunctions is found in the skin itself. The skin has in itself all the answers to fight against external aggressions, to renew itself, to correct small imperfections that appear.

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Mais, soit les agressions sont trop nombreuses, ou différentes au même moment, ou trop répétées, et les mécanismes naturels de défense ou réponse existant dans la peau ne peuvent plus suffire à corriger et à défendre celle-ci contre lesdites agressions, soit sous l'effet du vieillissement les mécanismes permettant par exemple la régénérescence ne sont plus suffisamment actifs pour permettre un renouvellement suffisant, moléculaire, cellulaire, ou tissulaire, pour garder à la peau un aspect satisfaisant.  But either the aggressions are too numerous, or different at the same time, or too repeated, and the natural defense mechanisms or response existing in the skin can no longer suffice to correct and defend it against said aggressions, either under 'aging effect the mechanisms allowing for example regeneration are no longer active enough to allow sufficient renewal, molecular, cellular, or tissue, to keep the skin looking satisfactory.

C'est alors que différentes pathologies de la peau apparaissent.  This is when different pathologies of the skin appear.

La présente invention a donc pour objet une nouvelle classe d'actifs conférant à la peau ou aux parties superficielles du corps humain ou animal, la capacité d'agir ou de réagir par elle-même à toute agression ou disfonctionnement, uniquement en activant des mécanismes moléculaires, et/ou cellulaires, et/ou tissulaires, par exemple métaboliques, préexistant dans la peau ou ladite partie superficielle du corps humain ou animal.  The present invention therefore relates to a new class of active agents which confer on the skin or on the superficial parts of the human or animal body, the ability to act or react by itself to any aggression or dysfunction, solely by activating mechanisms. molecular, and / or cellular, and / or tissue, for example metabolic, preexisting in the skin or said superficial part of the human or animal body.

Conformément à la présente invention, il est proposé, aux fins précitées, une composition à usage topique, par exemple cosmétique ou dermo-cosmétique, comprenant de manière nouvelle un complexe actif constitué d'au moins un peptide ou une protéine choisi dans le groupe constitué par les endonucléases, le peptide Met-Gln-Met-Lys-Lys-Val-Leu-AspSer, l'alpha MSH ("melanocyte stimulating hormon"), la mélanostanine, et la photolyase, et d'au moins un nucléotide, polynucléotide, ou acide nucléïque, choisi dans le groupe constitué par de l'AMP, GMP, CMP, UMP, dTMP, dAMP, dCMP, dGMP, ATP, GTP, CTP, UTP, TMP, GP4G, IP3, les hydrolysats d'ADN, et/ou ARN, l'UDP-glucose-galactose, le GDP-mannose, l'UDP-N-acétyl glusosamine, le CMP-N-acétyl acide neuramique.  In accordance with the present invention, there is proposed, for the aforementioned purposes, a composition for topical use, for example cosmetic or dermo-cosmetic, comprising in a new way an active complex consisting of at least one peptide or a protein chosen from the group consisting by endonucleases, the peptide Met-Gln-Met-Lys-Lys-Val-Leu-AspSer, alpha MSH ("melanocyte stimulating hormon"), melanostanine, and photolyase, and at least one nucleotide, polynucleotide , or nucleic acid, chosen from the group consisting of AMP, GMP, CMP, UMP, dTMP, dAMP, dCMP, dGMP, ATP, GTP, CTP, UTP, TMP, GP4G, IP3, DNA hydrolysates, and / or RNA, UDP-glucose-galactose, GDP-mannose, UDP-N-acetyl glusosamine, CMP-N-acetyl neuramic acid.

Le complexe actif selon l'invention permet à la peau de produire elle-même les éléments nécessaires dont elle a besoin pour assurer son équilibre, et fonctionner idéalement en donnant ou redonnant à la peau la capacité de s'adapter, de résister et de développer éventuellement une protection.  The active complex according to the invention allows the skin to produce itself the necessary elements which it needs to ensure its balance, and to function ideally by giving or giving back to the skin the capacity to adapt, to resist and to develop possibly protection.

Le processus d'action d'un complexe actif selon l'invention est sans doute bio-enzymologique. Il repose sur l'effet conjugué d'acides nucléiques et de protéines et/ou peptides.  The action process of an active complex according to the invention is undoubtedly bio-enzymological. It is based on the combined effect of nucleic acids and proteins and / or peptides.

Acides nucléiques et protéines sont consubstantiels à la vie.  Nucleic acids and proteins are consubstantial with life.

Le processus mis en #uvre avec un complexe actif selon la présente invention se différencie radicalement des processus habituels de la  The process implemented with an active complex according to the present invention differs radically from the usual processes of

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cosmétologie, car il tient compte de l'ensemble des interactions du système cutané, agit sur l'intégralité de la cellule et de son environnement, et respecte l'ensemble des cellules de la peau.  cosmetology, because it takes into account all the interactions of the cutaneous system, acts on the whole of the cell and its environment, and respects all the cells of the skin.

En réactivant les mécanismes des cellules de la peau, tout complexe actif selon l'invention réapprend à l'épiderme à utiliser ses propres ressources.  By reactivating the mechanisms of the skin cells, any active complex according to the invention teaches the epidermis to use its own resources.

En réveillant la mémoire des cellules et en stimulant leurs potentiels, tout complexe actif selon l'invention permet à la peau de retrouver ses facultés originelles, et/ou de mettre en #uvre des facultés de défense et de lutte contre les agressions extérieures, qui n'étaient pas ou étaient insuffisamment stimulées.  By awakening the memory of cells and stimulating their potentials, any active complex according to the invention allows the skin to regain its original faculties, and / or to put into action the faculties of defense and of fighting against external aggressions, which were not or were insufficiently stimulated.

L'art antérieur décrit, certes, l'utilisation de peptides ou d'oligonucléotides dans des applications cosmétiques. Le brevet FR 98 09193 décrit par exemple une application où des peptides sont rendus lipophiles par un greffage d'un acide gras, de plus ou moins longue chaîne, sur l'amine N-terminale, et/ou d'estérifier le groupe carboxyle du peptide. Les produits selon cette invention ne sont pas utilisables dans des formulations ou lotions constitués uniquement d'ingrédients aqueux.  The prior art certainly describes the use of peptides or oligonucleotides in cosmetic applications. Patent FR 98 09193 describes for example an application where peptides are made lipophilic by grafting a fatty acid, of more or less long chain, onto the N-terminal amine, and / or of esterifying the carboxyl group of the peptide. The products according to this invention cannot be used in formulations or lotions consisting solely of aqueous ingredients.

L'utilisation d'acides nucléiques, en particulier d'oligonucléotides, pour traiter des maladies est connue ; en particulier une application est décrite dans le brevet WO 99/25819. Les oligonucléotides décrits sont utilisés seuls, et ils sont utilisés comme antisens, c'est à dire qu'il bloquent des mécanismes biologiques.  The use of nucleic acids, in particular oligonucleotides, for treating diseases is known; in particular, an application is described in patent WO 99/25819. The oligonucleotides described are used alone, and they are used as antisense, that is to say that they block biological mechanisms.

Dans un complexe actif selon l'invention, un peptide est utilisé dans sa forme naturelle, ou en association avec un oligonucléotide, par exemple.  In an active complex according to the invention, a peptide is used in its natural form, or in combination with an oligonucleotide, for example.

L'effet synergique obtenu est tout à fait inattendu et fait l'objet de l'invention. The synergistic effect obtained is completely unexpected and is the subject of the invention.

Les peptides, entrant dans la constitution d'un complexe actif selon l'invention, peuvent être obtenus soit par synthèse chimique classique (en phase solide ou en phase homogène liquide), soit par synthèse enzymatique (Kullman et al., J. Biol. Chem. 1980, 255, 8234), à partir des acides aminés constitutifs ou de leurs dérivés.  The peptides, forming part of an active complex according to the invention, can be obtained either by conventional chemical synthesis (in solid phase or in homogeneous liquid phase), or by enzymatic synthesis (Kullman et al., J. Biol. Chem. 1980, 255, 8234), from the constituent amino acids or their derivatives.

Les peptides peuvent être obtenus également par fermentation d'une souche de bactérie, modifiée ou non par génie génétique, pour produire les séquences recherchées ou leurs différents fragments.  The peptides can also be obtained by fermentation of a strain of bacteria, modified or not by genetic engineering, to produce the desired sequences or their different fragments.

Enfin, les peptides peuvent être obtenus par extraction de protéines d'origine animale ou végétale, préférentiellement végétale, suivie d'une  Finally, the peptides can be obtained by extraction of proteins of animal or vegetable origin, preferably vegetable, followed by a

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hydrolyse contrôlée qui libère les fragments peptidiques en question, De nombreuses protéines trouvées dans les plantes sont susceptibles de contenir des séquences intéressantes au sein de leur structure. L'hydrolyse ménagée permet de dégager ces fragments peptidiques.  controlled hydrolysis which releases the peptide fragments in question, Many proteins found in plants are likely to contain interesting sequences within their structure. The controlled hydrolysis makes it possible to release these peptide fragments.

Pour obtenir un peptide entrant dans la constitution d'un complexe actif selon l'invention, il est possible, mais non nécessaire, d'extraire soit les protéines concernées d'abord et de les hydrolyser ensuite, soit d'effectuer l'hydrolyse d'abord sur un extrait brut et de purifier les fragments peptidiques ensuite. On peut également utiliser l'hydrolysât sans en extraire les fragments peptidiques en question, en s'assurant toutefois d'avoir arrêté la réaction enzymatique d'hydrolyse à temps et de doser la présence des peptides en question par des moyens analytiques appropriés (traçage par radioactivité, immunofluorescence, ou immunoprécipitation avec des anticorps spécifiques, etc.).  To obtain a peptide forming part of an active complex according to the invention, it is possible, but not necessary, to extract either the proteins concerned first and then to hydrolyze them, or to effect the hydrolysis of 'first on a crude extract and purify the peptide fragments then. It is also possible to use the hydrolyzate without extracting the peptide fragments in question therefrom, however making sure to have stopped the enzymatic hydrolysis reaction in time and to measure the presence of the peptides in question by appropriate analytical means (tracing by radioactivity, immunofluorescence, or immunoprecipitation with specific antibodies, etc.).

D'autres procédés, plus simples ou plus complexes, conduisant à des produits moins chers ou plus purs sont facilement envisageables par l'homme de l'art connaissant le métier de l'extraction et de la purification des protéines et peptides.  Other methods, simpler or more complex, leading to cheaper or purer products are easily conceivable by those skilled in the art knowing the art of extracting and purifying proteins and peptides.

Les extraits d'ADN ou ARN entrant dans la constitution d'un complexe actif selon l'invention sont obtenus par hydrolyse enzymatique contrôlée, à partir par exemple de toute source naturelle facilement disponible.  The DNA or RNA extracts forming part of an active complex according to the invention are obtained by controlled enzymatic hydrolysis, for example from any readily available natural source.

Ils peuvent également être obtenus par synthèse en utilisant un synthétiseur automatique. They can also be obtained by synthesis using an automatic synthesizer.

D'autres procédés, plus simples ou plus complexes, conduisant à des produits moins chers ou plus purs sont facilement envisageables par l'homme de l'art connaissant le métier de la synthèse ou de l'hydrolyse des oligonucléotides.  Other methods, simpler or more complex, leading to cheaper or purer products are easily conceivable by those skilled in the art knowing the art of synthesis or hydrolysis of oligonucleotides.

Les oligonucléotides ou nucléotides susceptibles d'entrer dans la constitution d'un complexe actif selon la présente invention seront choisis parmi les extraits d'ADN, les extraits d'ARN, les extraits biologiques comme les biolysats de microorganismes, les extraits végétaux, et les extraits de plancton riches en oligonucléptides, en fonction des peptides et/ou protéines et de leur capacité à stimuler leur action.  The oligonucleotides or nucleotides capable of entering into the constitution of an active complex according to the present invention will be chosen from DNA extracts, RNA extracts, biological extracts such as biolysates of microorganisms, plant extracts, and plankton extracts rich in oligonucleptides, depending on the peptides and / or proteins and their ability to stimulate their action.

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L'invention concerne donc une composition cosmétique et/ou dermocosmétique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un complexe actif associant, au moins un peptide et/ou une protéine avec au moins un nucléotide, et/ou polynucléotide, et/ou un acide nucléique.  The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic and / or dermocosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises an active complex combining, at least one peptide and / or a protein with at least one nucleotide, and / or polynucleotide, and / or an acid. nucleic.

De préférence, les composants du complexe actif agissent ensemble de manière synergique.  Preferably, the components of the active complex act together synergistically.

Dans un mode de réalisation, les peptides et/ou protéines représentent entre 1/10 à 8% et 0,1% en poids de la composition, et les nucléotides, polynucléotides et acides nucléiques représentent entre 2/10 à 8% et 0,2% en poids de ladite composition, ou entre 0,1% et 20% en poids de la composition, lorsque les nucléotides sont des extraits ou hydrosats d'ADN ou d'ARN.  In one embodiment, the peptides and / or proteins represent between 1/10 to 8% and 0.1% by weight of the composition, and the nucleotides, polynucleotides and nucleic acids represent between 2/10 to 8% and 0, 2% by weight of said composition, or between 0.1% and 20% by weight of the composition, when the nucleotides are extracts or hydrosates of DNA or RNA.

Selon l'invention, les peptides et/ou protéines sont mis en oeuvre, seuls ou en association entre eux, dans un produit cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique fini, sous forme de solution, de dispersion, d'émulsion, ou encapsulées dans des vecteurs comme les macro-, micro- ou nanocapsules, des liposomes ou des chylomicrons, ou inclus dans des macro-, micro-ou nanoparticules, ou dans des microéponges, ou adsorbés sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux.  According to the invention, the peptides and / or proteins are used, alone or in combination with each other, in a finished cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical product, in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, or encapsulated in vectors such as macro-, micro- or nanocapsules, liposomes or chylomicrons, or included in macro-, micro- or nanoparticles, or in micro-sponges, or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.

Les produits cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques finis, seront formulés selon toute forme galénique: comme les émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, pommades, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, poudres, sticks et crayons, sprays, huiles corporelles.  Finished cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical products will be formulated in any dosage form: like O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, powders, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils.

Les ingrédients habituellement utilisés comme les lipides d'extraction et ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits de plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins, et autres agents biologiques seront additionnés aux formulations selon les règles habituellement utilisées.  The ingredients usually used such as extraction and or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscous polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or liposoluble active principles, plant extracts, tissue extracts, marine extracts, and other biological agents will be added to the formulations according to the rules usually used.

A titre d'exemple, un complexe actif selon l'invention peut entrer dans la composition d'un lait solaire bio-bronzant, comprenant par ailleurs tous ingrédients et excipients entrant classiquement dans la composition d'un lait.  By way of example, an active complex according to the invention can enter into the composition of a bio-tanning sun milk, moreover comprising all the ingredients and excipients conventionally used in the composition of a milk.

A titre d'exemples illustrant l'invention, on cite ci-après quelques formules cosmétiques représentatives, mais non limitatives de l'invention.  By way of examples illustrating the invention, a few cosmetic formulas which are representative, but not limiting, of the invention are cited below.

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Exemple n 1 : Gel Bronzant après soleil
Carbopol 1342R 0,3% (en poids)
Butylène glycol 2,0%
Cylomethicone 6,0%
Alcool cétylique 0,5%
Glycérine 10%
TEA 0,3%
MSH (peptide) 0,01%
DNA 1.00%
GP4G (Guanosine tétraphosphate) 1.00%
Eau, conservateurs, parfum qsp 100% Exemple 2 : Crème solaire bronzante et protectrice
Butyl-méthoxydibenzoylméthane 3,00 % (en poids)
Octyl-triazone 2,00 %
Alcool cétylique 0,50 %
Diméthicone 0,50 %
Benzoate de C12 C15 6,00%
Dioxyde de titane (MT 100Z) 3,00 %
PVP/Copolymère Eicosène 2,00 %
Cétyl-phosphate de potassium 2,00 %
Méthyl et propyl-paraben 0,25 %
Disodium EDTA 0,10 %
BHT 0,05 %
Carbomer 10,00 %
MSH 0,00002 %
ATP 0,00005 %
Peptide Met-Gln-Met-Lys-Lys-Val-Leu-Asp-Ser 0,000001 %
Hydroxyde de potassium 4,05 %
Acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique 2,00 %
Acétate de tocophéryle 2,50 %
Panthénol 1,00 %
Parfum qs.
Example 1: After Sun Bronzing Gel
Carbopol 1342R 0.3% (by weight)
Butylene glycol 2.0%
Cylomethicone 6.0%
Cetyl alcohol 0.5%
Glycerin 10%
TEA 0.3%
MSH (peptide) 0.01%
DNA 1.00%
GP4G (Guanosine tetraphosphate) 1.00%
Water, preservatives, perfume qs 100% Example 2: Tanning and protective sunscreen
Butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00% (by weight)
Octyl-triazone 2.00%
Cetyl alcohol 0.50%
Dimethicone 0.50%
Benzoate of C12 C15 6.00%
Titanium dioxide (MT 100Z) 3.00%
PVP / Eicosene Copolymer 2.00%
2.00% potassium cetyl phosphate
0.25% methyl and propyl-paraben
Disodium EDTA 0.10%
BHT 0.05%
Carbomer 10.00%
MSH 0.00002%
ATP 0.00005%
Peptide Met-Gln-Met-Lys-Lys-Val-Leu-Asp-Ser 0.000001%
Potassium hydroxide 4.05%
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2.00%
Tocopheryl acetate 2.50%
Panthenol 1.00%
Perfume qs.

Eau qsp. 100 %  Water qs. 100%

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Exemple 3 : crème solaire anti-inflammatoire
Benzoate de C12 C15 3,00 % (en poids)
Stéarate d'octyle 3,00 %
Isoamyl-p-méthoxycinnamate 5,00 %
Butyl-méthoxydibenzoylméthane 1,00 %
Diisostéarate de polyglycéryl-3 4,00 %
PEG-20 Laurate de glycéryle 1,00 %
Carbomer 0,4 %
Propylène glycol 2,00 %
Conservateurs 0,50 %
Gomme de xanthane 0,30 %
Triéthanolamine 0,85 %
Acide phénylbenzimidazole-sulfonique 2,5 %
Acétyl-tyrosine 2,00 %
Peptide Met-Gln-Met-Lys-Lys Val-Leu-Asp-Ser 0,000001 %
UDP-Glucose-galactose, 2/10-6 %
Eau qsp.100%
Parfum qs.
EXAMPLE 3 Anti-Inflammatory Sunscreen
Benzoate of C12 C15 3.00% (by weight)
Octyl stearate 3.00%
Isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate 5.00%
Butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00%
Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 4.00%
PEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate 1.00%
Carbomer 0.4%
Propylene glycol 2.00%
Preservatives 0.50%
0.30% xanthan gum
Triethanolamine 0.85%
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2.5%
Acetyl-tyrosine 2.00%
Peptide Met-Gln-Met-Lys-Lys Val-Leu-Asp-Ser 0.000001%
UDP-Glucose-galactose, 2 / 10-6%
Water qs. 100%
Perfume qs.

Exemple 4 : Crème solaire. Example 4: Sunscreen.

Ethoxy-diglycol 8,00 % (en poids)
Octyle salicylate 5,00 %
Méthoxycinnamate d'octyle 7,50 %
Butyl-méthoxydibenzoylméthane 2,00 %
Diméthicone triméthylsiloxysilicate 3,00 %
Acétate de tocophéryle 0,20 %
Distéarate de sucrose 5,00 %
Glycérine 5,00 %
Photolyase Photosome 0,50 %
ADN de saumon 1,00 %
Butyl-, Méthyl-, Propyl-paraben + Phénoxyéthanol 0,40 %
Eau qsp.100 %
Parfum qs.
Ethoxy-diglycol 8.00% (by weight)
Octyl salicylate 5.00%
Octyl methoxycinnamate 7.50%
Butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00%
Dimethicone trimethylsiloxysilicate 3.00%
0.20% tocopheryl acetate
Sucrose distearate 5.00%
Glycerin 5.00%
Photosome Photolyase 0.50%
Salmon DNA 1.00%
Butyl-, Methyl-, Propyl-paraben + Phenoxyethanol 0.40%
Water qs. 100%
Perfume qs.

Claims (3)

REVENDICATIONS 1. Composition cosmétique et/ou dermocosmétique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un complexe actif constitué d'au moins un peptide ou une protéine choisi dans le groupe constitué par les endonucléases, et d'au moins un nucléotide, polynucléotide, ou acide nucléique choisi dans le groupe constitué par l'AMP, GMP, CMP, UMP, dTMP, dAMP, dCMP, dGMP, ATP, GTP, CTP, UTP, TMP, GP4G, IP3, les hydrolysats d'ADN, et/ou ARN, l'UDPglucose-galactose, le GDP-mannose, l'UDP-N-acétyl glusosamine, le CMP-Nacétyl acide neuramique. 1. Cosmetic and / or dermocosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises an active complex consisting of at least one peptide or a protein chosen from the group consisting of endonucleases, and at least one nucleotide, polynucleotide, or acid nucleic acid chosen from the group consisting of AMP, GMP, CMP, UMP, dTMP, dAMP, dCMP, dGMP, ATP, GTP, CTP, UTP, TMP, GP4G, IP3, DNA hydrolysates, and / or RNA, UDPglucose-galactose, GDP-mannose, UDP-N-acetyl glusosamine, CMP-Nacetyl neuramic acid. 2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que les peptides et/ou protéines représentent entre 1/10 à 8% et 0,1% en poids de la composition, ou entre 0,1% et 20% en poids de la composition, lorsque les nucléotides sont des extraits ou hydrolysats de l'ADN, et/ou ARN.  2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the peptides and / or proteins represent between 1/10 to 8% and 0.1% by weight of the composition, or between 0.1% and 20% by weight of the composition, when the nucleotides are extracts or hydrolysates of DNA, and / or RNA. 3. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que les nucléotides représentent entre 2/10 à 8% et 0,2% en poids de la composition. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the nucleotides represent between 2/10 to 8% and 0.2% by weight of the composition.
FR0216872A 2002-12-30 2002-12-30 COSMETIC, SOLAR AND BIO-BRONZING COMPOSITION Expired - Lifetime FR2849381B1 (en)

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FR0216872A FR2849381B1 (en) 2002-12-30 2002-12-30 COSMETIC, SOLAR AND BIO-BRONZING COMPOSITION
PCT/FR2003/003883 WO2004060393A2 (en) 2002-12-30 2003-12-23 Cutaneous metabolic bio-activator
AU2003303607A AU2003303607A1 (en) 2002-12-30 2003-12-23 Cutaneous metabolic bio-activator
US10/537,816 US20060029563A1 (en) 2002-12-30 2003-12-23 Cutanceous metabolic bio-activator
EP03814486.1A EP1581177B1 (en) 2002-12-30 2003-12-23 Cutaneous metabolic bio-activator
JP2004564302A JP4249710B2 (en) 2002-12-30 2003-12-23 Skin metabolic physiologically active substance
KR1020057012464A KR101007637B1 (en) 2002-12-30 2003-12-23 Cutaneous metabolic bio-activator
ES03814486.1T ES2668072T3 (en) 2002-12-30 2003-12-23 Cutaneous metabolic bioactivator
CA2528101A CA2528101C (en) 2002-12-30 2003-12-23 Cutaneous metabolic bio-activator

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