FR2822677A1 - Extraction of non-toxic vegetable dyes, for use in lipsticks or other cosmetics, by extracting parts of plants, especially of the Boraginaceae family, with organic solvent and concentrating the extract - Google Patents

Abstract

Extraction of organic dyes (I) from plant materials involves extracting parts of the plants with organic solvents, reducing the amount of solvent, concentrating the extracts under reduced pressure and optionally treating with acid or base to modify the color.

Description

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The present invention relates to methods of extracting vegetable colorants and harmless, non-polluting, health-protecting vegetable colorants which can be used in cosmetic compositions such as lipsticks and for other cosmetic applications such as makeup. eyelids, skin creams, blushes and blushes.

 There is worldwide renewed interest in the use of natural dyes, particularly in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, because synthetic dyes are likely to cause many side effects. Therefore, the object of the present invention is to develop totally natural vegetable dyestuffs for cosmetic compositions and more specifically to develop a useful plant composition such as a lipstick having functional characteristics that modify the mood, including the stimulation of ideas. creative in the people who use it. Such characteristics are attributed to the selected mixture of natural coloring matter and essential oils and / or aromatic isolates.

 The lips, which are the most sensitive part of the skin, can achieve rapid transdermal absorption and, because they are very close to the nose, they can facilitate the continuous inhalation of essential oil blends. Aromatic chemical substances of the composition that evaporate slowly, which leads to a double effect on the specific centers of the brain by releasing neurochemical substances leading to a change in mood and mental perceptions. The different blends of essential oils-aromatic isolates-natural aromatic chemicals selectively incorporated into lipsticks produce an anti-depressive and mood-enhancing effect and can give rise to creative ideas.

 While lipsticks with different shades mixed with aromatic principles have been developed for women, another range of compositions useful as lipstick has also been developed for men. These compositions are colorless but have a humectant effect and have mood-modifying functions, and are designed to modify mental perception, acting in a manner similar to lipstick compositions developed for women. These two groups of lipsticks have some additional features promoting and protecting health and beautification by preventing the eyes from darkening and developing humectant effects. These compositions also give lips

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un brillant et une texture agréables. Les rouges à lèvres colorés, développés pour les femmes, ont des effets antibactériens, antifongiques et anti-inflammatoires. En ce qui concerne l'embellissement des lèvres, les rouges à lèvres à application topique de différentes teintes sont bien connus. De même, la pulvérisation d'huiles aromatiques en vue d'un rafraîchissement est bien connue. De nombreuses études ont été réalisées concernant l'effet des parfums sur la perception mentale. Par exemple, un parfum agréable procure une sensation esthétique et de multiples effets positifs sur notre vie, en suscitant le plaisir et la séduction et en améliorant l'humeur.

a nice gloss and texture. The colored lipsticks, developed for women, have antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory effects. As for the beautification of the lips, topically applied lipsticks of different hues are well known. Similarly, the spraying of aromatic oils for refreshment is well known. Many studies have been done on the effect of perfumes on mental perception. For example, a pleasant fragrance provides an aesthetic sensation and multiple positive effects on our lives, creating pleasure and seduction and improving mood.

 Reference is made to the document entitled "Naphtaquinones of i ebia Nobilis" by Y. N. Shukla et al., Phytochemistry, 1971, Vol. 10, pp. 1909-1915 which discloses 4-naphthoquinones designated A-1, A-2, A-3 and A-4. This document also describes an extract of Ameba nobilis. Sayyada Khatoon and Shanta Mehrotra describe in "Naphthaquinones from some Boraginacerous Texa-A Chemical Review" published in Natural Product Sciences, 1996 2 (2) pages 75-85 a number of naphthoquinones derived from boraginaceous plants. Different properties of these compounds have also been described.

 VP Papageorgiou describes certain lipophilic red pigments obtained from different plants of the genera Lithospermum, Echium Onosma Anchusa and Cymoglossum, in his publication entitled Naturally Occuring Isohexenylnaphthrazarin Pigments: A New Class of Drugs "in Planta Medica, 1980, Vol 38, n 3.

 U.S. Patent 4,996,044 discloses a lipstick formulation consisting of organic dyes having a high coloring power and having creamy, shiny, long-lasting, gentle application characteristics.

This formulation does not use any plant extracts.

 U.S. Patent No. 5,593,662 discloses a humectant lipstick based on a composition containing 30-80% lipophilic material which may have a shorter shelf life and which may promote microbial growth due to the presence of moisture . This composition contains about 0-35% of synthetic dyestuff, which seems to be an area of proportion too high for a cosmetic composition. Most synthetic dyes have harmful side effects such as loss of gloss, darkening of the skin, and may have some carcinogenic effects, according to the website (http://www.orst.edu/foodresource/ color / dyes / html).

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US Patent No. 5,665,778 relates to ceramides, a process for their preparation and their use in cosmetics and dermatopharmacy. These compounds are complex mixtures of erythro and threo diasteriomers. According to this patent, these compounds are synthesized by a complex and expensive process using organic pigments for lipstick without vegetable coloring matter.

 In application PCT / EPOO / 02217 filed March 13, 2000, lipsticks with antimicrobial effects which contain zinc salts, in particular zinc citrate, are described. Zinc and its salts have the disadvantage of being emetic and causing conjunctivitis.

 At the International Congress of Essential oils, Fragrance and Flavors (November 1989), the use of flavors in lipsticks was not mentioned. On the contrary, commercially available lipsticks are used as beautifying and refreshing agents only.

 U.S. Patent No. 5,665,778 discloses another cosmetic formulation consisting of ceramides and other compounds. This is a totally synthetic composition.

 US Patent 5,676,957 discloses an external agent for the skin, said agent being an extract of plants of the genus Euonymus such as Euonymus alata.

This extract can be formulated with a cosmetically acceptable base.

 U.S. Patent No. 5,858,348 relates to a synthetic lipstick and other cosmetics producing a refreshing sensation in which only one essential oil isolate such as rose oxide is used. Such a unique essential oil isolate does not produce desired multiple effects such as mood enhancement, sensual pleasure, and stimulation of the mind.

 To the plaintiff's knowledge, there are no lipsticks comprising vegetable coloring matters and having functional characteristics, nor any cosmetic product such as eye shadows, sequins and blushes containing vegetable coloring matters. .

 Thus, the present invention aims to provide a harmless cosmetic composition, non-polluting, protective, containing natural dyes and natural essential oils and flavors useful for various cosmetic applications. The present invention also aims to use vegetable dyes in lipsticks, to produce

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des compositions cosmétiques transparentes utiles comme rouge à lèvres et contenant les huiles essentielles et des isolats aromatiques, d'utiliser des matières colorantes végétales dans d'autres compositions cosmétiques comme les fards à paupières, les crèmes pour la peau, les fards à effet de paillettes et les fards, d'utiliser des rouges à lèvres fonctionnels comme moyen pour masquer la peau leucodermique et en particulier les lèvres et enfin de fournir un procédé de production de compositions cosmétiques contenant des matières colorantes végétales et utiles dans d'autres applications cosmétiques.

transparent cosmetic compositions useful as lipstick and containing essential oils and aromatic isolates, to use vegetable dyes in other cosmetic compositions such as eye shadows, skin creams, glitter blushes and blushes, to use functional lipsticks as a means for masking the leucodermic skin and in particular the lips and finally to provide a process for the production of cosmetic compositions containing plant dyestuffs and useful in other cosmetic applications.

 The invention provides a safe, non-polluting, protective and beautifying plant composition containing dyestuffs and flavors and useful for various cosmetic applications, and also a process for the preparation of this cosmetic composition comprising the extraction of dyestuffs from sources. natural as plants, and the mixing of coloring matters with flavors and other basic materials for cosmetic applications.

 The present invention relates to a plant cosmetic composition containing coloring agents for topical or external use. More particularly, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition useful especially as lipstick. When used as a lipstick, the composition contains plant dyestuffs mixed with essential oils or aromatic isolates, and this composition is capable of modifying the mood and mental perception of the person applying it.

 It is a plant cosmetic composition containing plant dyestuffs as well as a cosmetically acceptable amount of one or more additives conferring special properties and a cosmetically acceptable base material.

isolats aromatiques obtenus dans le groupe d'espèces végétales appartenant aux genres Acquilldria, Cinnamomum, Cymbopogon Elettaria, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Jasmimunz, OcinzuJJl, Pelargonium, Rosa, Rosmarinl/s, Santalum et Vetria. The present invention provides a composition comprising additives conferring special properties and selected from essential oils and

aromatic isolates obtained from the group of plant species belonging to the genera Acquilldria, Cinnamomum, Cymbopogon Elettaria, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Jasmimunz, Ocinzuli, Pelargonium, Rosa, Rosmarinol, Santalum and Vetria.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the essential oils and / or aromatic isolates act as a mood enhancing agent, an anti-depressant agent, an anti-stress agent, an agent conferring a sensual pleasure. , an agent for creative thinking, an agent for reducing anxiety, an agent

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rafraîchissant, d'agent stimulant, de calmant, d'antioxydant, de fixateur, d'arôme et d'agent antimicrobien.

refreshing, stimulating agent, sedative, antioxidant, fixative, flavoring and antimicrobial agent.

 It has been found that vegetable dyestuffs are obtained from different plants of the family Boraginaceae and that it is possible to obtain a broad spectrum of colors from these plants by using specific solvents in specific proportions. For example, it is possible to successfully use petroleum ether and chloroform in different proportions to extract dyestuffs from these plants to obtain a broad spectrum of colors such as pastel red, purple red, red cherry, ruby red, dark magenta, purple, amaranth, dark purple, dark purple, dark blue, etc. It is important to note that each of the above plants is capable of producing the above color spectrum.

 It has been found that vegetable dyes obtained from different plants together with essential oils and conventional additives give a vegetable composition which is suitable for cosmetic applications such as lipsticks. This plant composition is devoid of toxic effects and it is believed that essential oils and aromatic isolates may have mood enhancing properties, sensual pleasure, anti-depressive and stimulating creative ideas. In addition, essential oils and aromatic isolates can be used in transparent lipstats as functional characteristics.

 Those skilled in the art can easily determine the proportions in which the coloring matter or coloring compounds can be mixed with the essential oils and additives. However, it is preferred to mix 0.0005% dyestuff with 10-6% essential oil, 1% glossing agent such as safflower oil. Base and other added materials are the 100% complement.

extraites des végétaux appartenant aux genres Arnebia, Bixa, Butea, Corthamus, Hibiscus, Jatropha, Lithospermum, Macrotomia, Maharanga, Nyctanthes, Onosma, Rhododendron et Tagetes dont on sait qu'ils sont non toxiques et dépourvus de tout effet secondaire marqué sur l'organisme humain, en particulier par application topique. Les matières colorantes extraites de ces végétaux sont brillantes et lustrées et ont des activités antibactériennes et anti-inflammatoires prononcées. Par exemple, une matière colorante brillante, de couleur rougeandore, planche no 8, 4 L du Dictionary of colours (Maerz and Paul, 1950) donne, Ingenious lipophilic plant coloring matters are

extracted from plants belonging to the genera Arnebia, Bixa, Butea, Corthamus, Hibiscus, Jatropha, Lithospermum, Macrotomia, Maharanga, Nyctanthes, Onosma, Rhododendron and Tagetes which are known to be non-toxic and have no marked side effects on human organism, particularly by topical application. The dyestuffs extracted from these plants are shiny and lustrous and have pronounced antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities. For example, a brilliant red coloring dye, plate 8, 4 L of the Dictionary of colors (Maerz and Paul, 1950) gives,

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après application sur les lèvres (grenade à pourpre Vemonia (planche 6, 3 L- 6,5 A du même dictionnaire) différents effets fonctionnels comme l'amélioration de l'humeur, l'augmentation de la concentration, la relaxation du système nerveux central, l'accélération de la vitesse de travail et l'amélioration de la capacité de travail. Il convient de noter que chacun des végétaux énumérés ici est capable de produire un large spectre de matières colorantes.

after application on the lips (purple Pomegranate Vemonia (plate 6, 3 L- 6.5 A of the same dictionary) different functional effects such as mood improvement, concentration increase, central nervous system relaxation , speeding up work and improving working capacity It should be noted that each of the plants listed here is capable of producing a broad spectrum of dyes.

 Thus, the present invention provides safe, nonpolluting, protective vegetable dyes and vegetable flavors which are useful for cosmetic applications and which can be obtained by extraction from natural sources such as plants, for example from different plant species belonging to the family Boraginaceae that are non-toxic and devoid of any side effects.

essentielles peuvent être obtenus à partir de végétaux des genres Aquillaria, Cinnamo111um, Cymbopogon, Elettaria, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Pelargonium, Rosa, Rosamarinus, Santalum et Vetiveria. According to the present invention, aromatic isolates and oils

Essential oils can be obtained from plants of the genera Aquillaria, Cinnamonum, Cymbopogon, Elettaria, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Pelargonium, Rosa, Rosamarinus, Santalum and Vetiveria.

Lipsticks containing essential oils and combinations of aromatic isolates thus obtained can release neurochemicals into the brain via the receptors located in the mouth and nose and may have mood enhancing properties. of sensual pleasure, anti-depressive and arousing creative ideas.

Anti-depressive properties can be conferred by essential oils chosen from the following:

<Tb>
<tb> Essential <SEP> Oils <SEP> Preferred <SEP> Report
<tb> 1. <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogon <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 2. <SEP> Rosmasrinus <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 3. <SEP> Mentha <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosmarinus <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 4. <SEP> Cymbopogon <SEP>: <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> Ocinum <SEP>: <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> Mentha <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 5. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Ocimum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogon <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 6. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Mentha <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosmarinus <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 7. <SEP> Ocimum
<tb> 8. <SEP> Rosmarinus
<Tb>

\ 1.

\ 1.

Properties giving rise to creative ideas can be conferred for example by essential oils chosen from the following:

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<Tb>
<tb> Essential <SEP> Oils <SEP> Preferred <SEP> Report
<tb> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Tantalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP> (1 <SEP> 2)
<Tb>

Anti-stress properties can be conferred by essential oils chosen from the following:

<Tb>
<tb> Essential <SEP> Oils <SEP> Preferred <SEP> Report
<tb> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Eucalyptus <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 3. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Eucalyptus <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 4. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Aquillaria <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Elettaria <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosmarinus <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 5. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasminum
<tb> 6. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum
<tb> 7. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula
<Tb>

Refreshing properties can be conferred by essential oils chosen for example from the following:

<Tb>
<tb> Oils <SEP> preferred
<tb> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosmarinus <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Perlagonium <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 3. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 4. <SEP> Lavandula
<tb> 5. <SEP> Santalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa
<tb> 6. <SEP> Santalum
<Tb>

Sensual pleasure properties can be conferred for example by essential oils chosen from the following:

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<Tb>
<tb> Essential <SEP> Oils <SEP> Preferred <SEP> Report
<tb> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Pelargonium <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Ocimum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogon <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 3. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasminllm
<tb> 4. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<Tb>

Des propriétés améliorant l'humeur peuvent être conférées par exemple par des huiles essentielles choisies parmi les suivantes :

Mood improving properties can be conferred for example by essential oils chosen from the following:

<Tb>
<tb> Oils <SEP> preferred
<tb> 1. <SEP> Jasminum: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Pelargonium <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosmarinus <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 3. <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogan <SEP>: <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> rosa <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 4. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa
<tb> 5. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasminum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa
<Tb>

Des propriétés réduisant l'anxiété peuvent être conférées par exemple par des huiles essentielles choisies parmi les suivantes :

Properties reducing anxiety can be conferred for example by essential oils chosen from the following:

<Tb>
<tb> Essential <SEP> Oils <SEP> Preferred <SEP> Report
<tb> 1. <SEP> cinnamomum <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<Tb>

According to the present invention, essential oils and aromatic isolates can also be used in transparent lipsticks as a functional feature.

 According to the present invention, the softening agents are used in the range of 0.5 to 2% of the total mass of the composition.

 According to the present invention, the polishing agents are used in the range of 0.5 to 2%.

 According to the present invention, essential oils are used to impart functional characteristics are used in the range of 10-4 to 9 10-3%.

 The present invention also relates to a composition in which tocopherol is used as an antioxidant and also as a fixer, and may be present in trace amounts at ppm.

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Preferably, the process for extracting organic compounds from natural sources such as plants comprises drying the plant parts, spraying by known means, and the use of the dried powder obtained to extract the vegetable dyestuffs which are optionally treated with acids or bases in different proportions to produce different hues.

 The plant parts can be roots, stems, leaves and the amount of essential oils used in the preparation of the compositions varies depending on the plant part from which the oil is extracted.

45OC, et elles peuvent être pulvérisées en particules dont la taille est située dans le domaine de 250 à 630 u. m (60-30 mesh). The plant parts can be dried at a temperature of 30 to

45OC, and they can be pulverized into particles whose size is in the range of 250 to 630 u. m (60-30 mesh).

The red plant dyestuffs can be extracted from plants belonging to the genera Arnebia, Bixa, Butea, Carthamus, Hibiscus, Jatropha, Lithospermum, Macrotomia, Maharanga, Nyctanthes, Onosma, Rhododendron and Tagetes. To do this, the plants or parts of these plants are placed in a Soxhlet apparatus at a temperature of 20-80oC and the solvents selected for extraction may be non-polar solvents such as hexane, petroleum ether toluene and cyclohexane, or polar solvents such as chloroform, acetone, ethyl alcohol and methyl alcohol, for example. Nonpolar solvents and polar solvents can be recovered at a reduced pressure of 345 x 103 Pa at 6.9 x 10 5 Pa (50-100 psi) and at a temperature of 40-80oc. The vegetable dyestuffs are obtained after recovery of the solvents. The concentrates obtained give colors of different hues such as purple red, cherry red, ruby red, purple, dark purple, dark blue and black blue which are of vegetable nature because no trace of organic solvent remains in the final concentrate.

 In addition, the present invention provides a process for the preparation of vegetable coloring matter which comprises the steps of drying the plant material, spraying it and percolating it with the ethyl or methyl alcohol at a temperature of 20 to 48OC. The alcohol-soluble material is concentrated under a reduced pressure of 345 x 10 3 Pa at 6.9 x 10 5 Pa (50-100 psi) and at a temperature of 40 to 60 ° C. The concentrate is eluted by column chromatography on silica gel with nonpolar solvents such as petroleum ether, hexane, cyclohexane, toluene and a mixture of nonpolar and polar solvents. The polar solvents used can be the

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chloroforme, l'acétone, l'acétate d'éthyle ou le méthanol. Le rapport des solvants non polaires et polaires peut être de 20 : 1 à 4 : 1. La concentration des fractions éluées peut être réalisée dans un domaine de pressions réduites de 552 x 103 Pa à 6, 9 x 105 Pa (80-100 psi) à une température de 30-60oc. La couleur du concentré obtenu peut être rouge pastel, rouge pâle, rouge pourpre, rouge rose, rouge cerise, ZD rouge rubis, magenta foncé, pourpre, amarante, pourpre foncé, violet foncé, violet, bleu foncé et/ou bleu noir.

chloroform, acetone, ethyl acetate or methanol. The ratio of nonpolar and polar solvents may be from 20: 1 to 4: 1. The concentration of the eluted fractions may be carried out in a range of reduced pressures of 552 x 103 Pa to 80-100 psi. ) at a temperature of 30-60oc. The color of the resulting concentrate may be pastel red, pale red, purple red, pink red, cherry red, ruby red ZD, dark magenta, purple, amaranth, dark purple, dark purple, purple, dark blue and / or black blue.

 The plant dyestuffs can be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory and can be used in leukoderma, more particularly for the lips.

 The plant dyestuffs may be a mixture of naphthazarin and may be unsaturated cyclic diketones in which the double bonds and the keto group may be conjugated.

 The hues of plant dyestuffs can be modified with organic or inorganic acids. Color intensity can be increased with organic acids and can be decreased with inorganic acids. The concentration range of the acids used can be from 0.1 to 10%.

 In addition, vegetable coloring matters can be modified with organic or inorganic bases used in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 20%.

 The vegetable dyestuffs can be lipophilic and have very little hydrophilic properties.

 The vegetable colorants may be soluble in organic solvents such as hexane, petroleum ether, benzene, diethyl ether, ethyl acetate, chloroform, acetone and alcohols in the range from 30 to 100%.

 The pH of the vegetable dyestuffs extracted can be from 5 to 6.

Thus, the present invention relates to a process for extracting organic coloring matter from plants which comprises obtaining plant parts, extraction with organic solvents, removal of solvents by conventional methods, concentration of the extract under reduced pressure and optionally its treatment with acids or bases to produce different hues.

 More specifically, the present invention relates to a process for extracting organic dyestuffs which comprises the steps of:

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a) séchage des parties végétales, b) pulvérisation des parties végétales séchées, c) extraction au Soxhlet de la poudre sèche obtenue dans l'étape b) à une température de 40 à 80 C ou percolation à froid avec des solvants organiques à une température de 20 à 45OC, d) concentration du mélange de l'étape c) par des procédés conventionnels sous une pression réduite située dans le domaine de 345 x 103 Pa à 6,9 x 105 Pa (50-100 psi) et à une température ne dépassant pas 50oC, e) mélange du concentré de l'étape d) avec du gel de silice dans le rapport de 1 : 3 à 2 : 7 pour obtenir une suspension, f) élution de la suspension avec des solvants organiques pour obtenir différentes fractions,

g) concentration des fractions à une pression de 345 x 103 Pa à 6, 9 x105 Pa (50-100 psi) pour obtenir des matières colorantes végétales, qui sont éventuellement traitées avec des acides ou des bases pour produire différentes teintes et h) obtention de matières colorantes de différentes teintes par traitement desdites fractions avec des acides ou des bases.

a) drying of the plant parts, b) spraying the dried plant parts, c) Soxhlet extraction of the dry powder obtained in step b) at a temperature of 40 to 80 ° C. or cold percolation with organic solvents at a temperature from 20 to 45 ° C, d) concentration of the mixture of step c) by conventional methods under a reduced pressure in the range of 345 x 103 Pa to 6.9 x 10 5 Pa (50-100 psi) and at a temperature of not exceeding 50 ° C, e) mixing the concentrate of step d) with silica gel in the ratio of 1: 3 to 2: 7 to obtain a suspension, f) eluting the suspension with organic solvents to obtain different fractions,

g) concentrating the fractions at a pressure of 345 x 103 Pa at 6, 9 x 10 5 Pa (50-100 psi) to obtain vegetable coloring matters, which are optionally treated with acids or bases to produce different hues and h) obtaining dyes of different hues by treating said fractions with acids or bases.

 The present invention relates to another method of extracting vegetable coloring matter from plants of the family Boraginaceae, which comprises percolating pulverulent plant parts with an alcohol at room temperature to obtain an alcohol-soluble plant material, said plant material being concentrated by known means at pressures of 345 x 103 Pa to 6.9 x 10 5 Pa (50-100 psi) and at a temperature of 40 to 60oC, the concentrate thus obtained being formed into a suspension with silica gel in a ratio of 1: 3 to 2: 7, said suspension being eluted by known means with organic solvents to produce fractions which are further concentrated by known means at a pressure of 345 x 103 Pa at 6.9 x 105 Pa (50-100 psi) to produce plant dyestuffs that are optionally treated with acids or bases to produce different hues.

 Plant coloring matter may be extracted from any plant parts such as roots, stems or leaves, singly or in combination. These portions may then be dried by conventional means which may include a heat treatment at a temperature of 30 to 45 ° C. Alternatively, the drying process can be done in the shade,

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bien que la durée de séchage puisse être trop longue dans ce cas. La matière végétale séchée peut ensuite être pulvérisée et tamisée pour obtenir une poudre de particules dont la taille est de préférence située dans le domaine de 250 à 630 um (60-30 mesh). La poudre séchée ainsi obtenue peut être extraite au moyen d'un appareil de Soxhlet à une température de 40 à 80oC. La matière végétale pulvérulente séchée peut aussi être extraite par percolation à froid à une température de 20 à 40oC.

although the drying time may be too long in this case. The dried plant material can then be pulverized and screened to obtain a particle powder preferably in the range of 250 to 630 μm (60-30 mesh). The dried powder thus obtained can be extracted by means of a Soxhlet apparatus at a temperature of 40 to 80oC. The dried pulverulent plant material can also be extracted by cold percolation at a temperature of 20 to 40oC.

 The extraction can be carried out with nonpolar solvents and mixtures of non-polar solvents and polar solvents. The non-polar solvents may be selected from hexane, petroleum ether, toluene and cyclohexane while the polar solvents may be selected from chloroform, acetone, ethyl alcohol and methyl alcohol. The vegetable colorants can be obtained by concentrating the extracts at a reduced pressure of 345 x 10 3 Pa at 6.9 x 10 5 Pa (50-100 psi) at a temperature of 40 to 60oc. This process of concentration can give red, cherry red, ruby red, purple, dark purple, dark blue or black blue dyes which are vegetal in nature because no trace of organic solvent remains in the final concentrate.

 Alternatively, the dried pulverulent plant material may be percolated with ethyl or methyl alcohol at a temperature of 20 to 48 ° C. The alcohol-soluble material can be concentrated at a reduced pressure of 345 x 10 3 Pa to 6.9 x 10 5 Pa (50-100 psi) and at a temperature of 40 to 60oC. The concentrate thus obtained can be eluted by chromatography on a column of silica gel using non-polar solvents such as petroleum ether, hexane, cyclohexane, toluene or a mixture of these nonpolar solvents and polar solvents . The polar solvents which can be used are, for example, chloroform, acetone, ethyl acetate and methanol. The ratio of nonpolar and polar solvents may be from 20: 1 to 4: 1. The concentration of the eluted fractions may be carried out at a reduced pressure of 552 x 103 Pa at 80-100 psi and at a temperature of 30-60oC. Dyestuffs of the concentrate may be pastel red, pale red, purple red, pink red, cherry red, ruby red, dark magenta, purple, amaranth, dark purple, dark purple, purple, dark blue or black blue.

 The vegetable dyestuffs thus obtained can be used with or without an aromatic isolate and with or without essential oils. An appropriate mixture of aromatic isolates and essential oils provides

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propriétés souhaitables d'amélioration de l'humeur, de plaisir sensuel, antidépressives et suscitant des idées créatives. Pour conférer ces propriétés souhaitées à des produits cosmétiques comme les rouges à lèvres, les matières colorantes végétales peuvent être mélangées avec un mélange choisi d'arômes et peuvent être appliquées à la matière de base. Ces matières colorantes végétales peuvent être utilisées dans d'autres applications comme les fards à paupières, les fards à effet de paillettes, les fards et les agents de conditionnement de la peau.

Desirable properties of mood enhancement, sensual pleasure, antidepressive and creative ideas. To impart these desired properties to cosmetics such as lipsticks, vegetable coloring matters can be mixed with a selected blend of flavors and can be applied to the base material. These vegetable dyes can be used in other applications such as eye shadow, sequins, blushes and skin conditioners.

 These dyestuffs may be a mixture of napthazarin and may be unsaturated cyclic diketones in which double bonds and the keto group may be conjugated. The hue of these vegetable dyestuffs can be modified by treatment with organic or inorganic acids. The intensity of the hues can be increased with organic acids and can be decreased with inorganic acids. The concentration range of the acids can be from 0.1 to 10%. The color of plant dyestuffs can be changed from red to blue with organic and inorganic bases. The concentration range of the bases can be from 0.1 to 20%.

 These vegetable dyes may have excellent lipophilic properties and very weak hydrophilic properties. They may be soluble in organic solvents such as hexane, petroleum ether, benzene, diethyl ether, ethyl acetate, chloroform, acetone and alcohols in the range of 30 to 100%. The pH of the dyestuffs extracted can be from 5 to 6. All the characteristics are very desirable for cosmetic applications. The method according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain different colors such as those described in Tables 3 to 6.

 Some of the critical parameters that lead to the production of different dyestuffs are a) the solvent composition used for column chromatography, b) the ratio of polar to nonpolar solvents, which is a critical parameter for the production of different colors, c) the temperature of the rotary evaporator used in the concentration process of the extract, which is also a critical parameter, d) the temperature of the hot air oven in which the lipstick formulation is prepared,

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e) le traitement des matières colorantes avec une concentration spécifique d'acides ou de bases pour produire différentes teintes.

e) treating dyestuffs with a specific concentration of acids or bases to produce different hues.

.. inorganiques. Some features of the invention are: 1. Extraction from plant materials of plant dyestuffs that are non-toxic and highly lipophilic, 2. the application of vegetable dyestuffs in cosmetic preparations such as lipsticks, eyeshadow, glitter and make-up, 3. The possibility of adjusting the hue of basic vegetable coloring matter by means of a simple treatment with organic acids or bases or

.. inorganic.

 The present invention will be better understood on reading the following nonlimiting examples, the following tables and the accompanying drawings, in which: FIGS. 1 to 23 show dyestuffs of different hues, and FIG. 24 represents different shades of lipsticks obtained. according to the present invention.

 Table 1 contains a preferred list of aromas or essential oils for the functional characteristics in cosmetic application; Table 2 contains a preferred list of flavoring isolates for functional characteristics in cosmetic application; Table 3 shows color changes obtained by direct extraction (method 1), color change with bases; Table 4 shows color changes obtained by direct extraction (method 1), color change with acids; Table 5 shows color changes obtained with a column (method 2), color change with acids; Table 6 shows color changes obtained with a column (Method 2), color change with bases; Table 7 shows a color code map according to the Flower Council of Holland.

 The different colors presented are coded according to the RHS color chart in association with the Flower Council of Holland and The Royal Horticultural Society, London.

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For the preparation of vegetable dyestuffs, the powdered raw material is extracted with non-polar solvents such as hexane, petroleum ether, toluene and cyclohexane and mixtures of non-polar solvents and polar solvents, polar solvents being for example chloroform, acetone, ethyl acetate, methanol or ethanol, in a ratio of non-polar solvents to polar solvents of 99: 1 to 0: 100. The color changes are obtained by treatment with food grade acids, for example acetic acid, less than 0.1% or with bases less than 0.1%.

Example 1
100 g of air-dried roots coarsely crushed with Onosma are sieved through a 40 mesh sieve and then extracted in a Soxhlet apparatus with hexane at a temperature of 50 ° C for 12 to 18 hours. which leads to the formation of a hexane soluble vegetable material which is concentrated at a reduced pressure of 70 psi (483 x 103 Pa) and a temperature of 35 ° C, resulting in 6 g of material purple dye (Plate No. 12 A 7 of the Methuen handbook of color, 1978).

Example 2
100 grams of Onosma 1: 4 coarsely ground and air-dried stems and roots are sieved through a 40 mesh screen and then extracted into a Soxhlet apparatus with chloroform at a temperature of 60 ° C. for 18 to 24 h, resulting in the formation of a chloroform soluble plant material which is concentrated at a reduced pressure of 80 psi (552 x 103 Pa) and a temperature of 40oC to produce 8.5 g of purple dyestuff (Plate No. 13 D8).

Example 3
100 g of air-dried and coarsely ground 1: 1: 3 stems, roots and leaves of Macrotomia are allowed to percolate at room temperature with a mixture of chloroform and hexane in a ratio of 5: 95 for 4 hours (3 times). The combined extracts are concentrated at a pressure of 70 psi (483 x 103 Pa) and a temperature of 50 ° C to give 3.5 g of cherry coloring matter (Plate # 12 C8).

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EXAMPLE 4 100 g of coarsely ground, air-dried Onosma roots are sieved through a 400 mesh (40 mesh) sieve and then extracted in a Soxhlet apparatus with hexane at a temperature of 50 ° C. for 12 to 18 hours. resulting in the formation of a hexane-soluble vegetable material which is concentrated at a reduced pressure of 483 x 103 Pa (70 psi) and at a temperature of 35OC to give 6 g of purple-red dyestuff ( Plate No. 12 A 7) which turns pink after treatment with 1% formic acid.

Example 5
100 g of Onosma stems and roots in a ratio of 1: 4 air-dried and coarsely ground are sieved through a 40 mesh sieve and then extracted in a Soxhlet apparatus with chloroform at a temperature of 60 ° C. for 18 to 24 hours, resulting in the formation of a chloroform soluble plant material which is concentrated at a reduced pressure of 552 x
103 Pa (80 psi) and at a temperature of 40oC to give 8.5 g of purple dyestuff (Plate No. 13 D8) which turns to ruby red after treatment with 0.1% HCl (Plate No. 12 D8).

Example 6
100 g of Macrotomia stems, roots and leaves in a ratio of 1: 1: 3 air-dried and coarsely ground are allowed to percolate at room temperature with a mixture of chloroform and hexane in the ratio 5: 95 for 4 hours (3 times). The combined extracts are then concentrated at a pressure of 483 x 103 Pa (70 psi) and at a temperature of 50oC, to give 3.5 g of cherry coloring matter (Plate No. 12 C8) which turns bright blue (plate No. 21 A8) by addition of 0.1% NaOH.

Example 7
100 g of air-dried Onosma roots and coarsely ground are percolated with ethyl alcohol at room temperature for 24 h (4 times). The alcohol-soluble portion is concentrated under a reduced pressure of 483 x 103 Pa (70 psi) and at a temperature of 50oC, to give 18 g of ethanol-soluble concentrate which is mixed with 54 g of silica gel to prepare a suspension which is dried by means of a vacuum pump and then subjected to column chromatography with a mixture of hexane

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et de chloroforme dans le rapport 95 : 5. Les fractions obtenues avec ces solvants sont concentrées à une pression réduite de 621 x 103 Pa (90 psi) et à une température de 40 C pour donner 0,3 g de matière colorante rouge pastel (panneau n 9 A5) qui vire au bleu vif (planche nO 21 A8) par addition de 0, 1 % de NaOH.

and 95: 5 chloroform. The fractions obtained with these solvents are concentrated at a reduced pressure of 621 x 103 Pa (90 psi) and at a temperature of 40 ° C to give 0.3 g of pastel red dyestuff ( panel No. 9 A5) which turns bright blue (Plate No. 21 A8) by addition of 0.1% NaOH.

Preparation of cosmetic compositions
The plant dyestuffs obtained by the method described in Examples 1 to 7 above can be used according to the invention to develop various cosmetic compositions useful as lipsticks, eyeshadow, sequins and makeup effects. Such compositions are prepared according to the general principles used in this field. More specifically, the vegetable coloring material obtained from the plant parts is mixed with a base in appropriate proportions. The base can be liquefied first, after which the selected coloring matter is added and stirred. Alternatively, the coloring matter and the base are added, the mixture is heated and the ingredients are stirred to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Then, an essential oil is added to this mixture as well as softening agents, mood improvers and other additives that may be needed for the compositions. For example, in the case of preparing a glitter composition, glitter additives are added to the base composition. When it is cooled to room temperature, the composition thus obtained can be used as a cosmetic composition.

 Examples 8 to 17 below show specific cases of preparation of different cosmetic compositions for different applications.

Example 8
0.5 mg of plant dyestuff was thoroughly mixed with 1 ml of safflower oil and 1 ml of castor oil, then 1.5 g of melted beeswax was incorporated into this mixture at a temperature of 70 ° C., after which 5 μl of tocopherol and 1 μl of Rosamarinus essential oil were added to the previous mixture which was then cooled to room temperature, after which it was ready for application.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Substance <SEP> Quantity <SEP> Percentage
<tb> 1. <SEP> Material <SEP> coloring <SEP> 0.5 <SEP> mg <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5%
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> 2. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Safflower <SEP> 12.0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1.0 <SEP>%
<tb> 3. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricin <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 4. <SEP> Tocopherol <SEP> 5 <SEP> l <SEP> 0.005 <SEP>%
<tb> 5. <SEP> Rosamarinus <SEP> (oil <SEP> essential) <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> III <SEP> 0, <SEP> 001 <SEP>%
<tb> 6. <SEP> Bee <SEP> Wax <SEP> 1, <SEP> 5 <SEP> g <SEP> for <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

1 LI d'huile essentielle de jasmin et 1 LI d'huile essentielle de santal ont été ajoutés au mélange qui a ensuite été refroidi à la température ambiante, après quoi il était prêt pour l'application.

Example 9
0.5 mg of plant dyestuff was thoroughly mixed with 1 ml of safflower oil and 1 ml of castor oil, then 1.5 g of melted beeswax was incorporated into this mixture at 70oC, after what 5 tocopherol LI and

1L of jasmine essential oil and 1L of sandalwood essential oil were added to the mixture which was then cooled to room temperature, after which it was ready for application.

<Tb>
<tb> Substance <SEP> Quantity <SEP> Percentage
<tb> 1. <SEP> Material <SEP> coloring <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP> mg <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5%
<tb> 2. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Safflower <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 3. <SEP> oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricin <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 4. <SEP> Tocopherol <SEP> 5, <SEP> 0 <SEP> Ill <SEP> 0, <SEP> 005 <SEP>%
<tb> 5. <SEP> Jasmine <SEP> and <SEP> Sandalwood <SEP> (oil <SEP> essential) <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> l <SEP> 0, <SEP> 001 <SEP>%
<tb> 6. <SEP> Bee <SEP> Wax <SEP> 1, <SEP> 5 <SEP> g <SEP> for <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

Example 10
0.5 mg of red dyestuff was thoroughly mixed with 1 ml of safflower oil and 1 ml of castor oil and then 0.5 g of melted beeswax was incorporated into said mixture at a temperature of 70oC, after which 5 l of tocopherol and 1 u. Sandalwood oil was added to the mixture which was then cooled to room temperature so that it was ready for application as an eyeshadow.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Substance <SEP> Quantity <SEP> Percentage
<tb> 1. <SEP> Material <SEP> coloring <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5 <SEP> mg <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5%
<tb> 2. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Safflower <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 3. <SEP> oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricin <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 4. <SEP> Tocopherol <SEP> 5, <SEP> 0 <SEP> l <SEP> 0, <SEP> 005 <SEP>%
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> 5. <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> Wood <SEP> of <SEP> Sandalwood <SEP> (essential oil <SEP>) <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> l <SEP > 0.001 <SEP>%
<tb> 6. <SEP> Bee <SEP> Wax <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5 <SEP> g <SEP> for <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

Example 11
1 mg of plant dyestuff was thoroughly mixed with 1 ml of safflower oil and 1 ml of castor oil whereupon 0.2 g of melted beeswax was incorporated at a temperature of 70oC, then 10 III. Tocopherol and 2 μl of rose oil were added, after which the resulting mixture was cooled to room temperature so that it was ready for application as a strawberry effect.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Substance <SEP> Quantity <SEP> Percentage
<tb> 1. <SEP> Material <SEP> coloring <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> mg <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 2. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Safflower <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 3. <SEP> oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricin <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 4. <SEP> Tocopherol <SEP> 10 <SEP> l <SEP> 0, <SEP> 01 <SEP>%
<tb> 5. <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> pink <SEP> (oil <SEP> essential) <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> u. <SEP> I <SEP> 0, <SEP> 002 <SEP>%
<tb> 6. <SEP> Bee <SEP> Wax <SEP> 0, <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP> for <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

Example 12
0.25 mg of pinkish coloring material was mixed with 10 g of talc in a ball mill, then 1 l of jasmine essential oil was added to the mixture to give a makeup composition.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Substance <SEP> Quantity <SEP> Percentage
<tb> 1. <SEP> Material <SEP> Coloring <SEP> 0, <SEP> 25 <SEP> mg <SEP> 0, <SEP> 25 <SEP>%
<tb> 2. <SEP> Jasmine <SEP> (essential oil <SEP>) <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> ul <SEP> 0, <SEP> 001 <SEP>%
<tb> 3. <SEP> Talc <SEP> 10.0 <SEP> g <SEP> For <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

Example 13 (anti-depressive activity)
0.5 mg of plant dyestuff was thoroughly mixed with 1 ml of safflower oil and 1 ml of castor oil and then 1.5 g of melted beeswax was incorporated into this mixture at a temperature of 70oC after which 5 u. l of tocopherol and 1 III of a mixture of basil essence (containing linalool and linolyl acetate), jasmine and lemon and essential oil of

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citral ont été ajoutés au mélange précédent qui a ensuite été refroidi à la température ambiante de sorte qu'il était prêt pour l'application.

Citral was added to the previous mixture which was then cooled to room temperature so that it was ready for application.

<Tb>
<tb> Substance <SEP> Quantity <SEP> Percentage
<tb> 1. <SEP> Material <SEP> coloring <SEP> 1, <SEP> 5 <SEP> mg <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 2. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Safflower <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 3. <SEP> oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricin <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 4. <SEP> Tocopherol <SEP> 10 <SEP> l <SEP> 0.01 <SEP>%
<tb> 5. <SEP><SEP> Essle <SEP> basil <SEP> common, <SEP> from <SEP> jasmine <SEP> and <SEP> from <SEP> 2, <SEP> Yes <SEP> 0, <SEP> 002%
<tb> lemon
<tb> 6. <SEP> Bee <SEP> Wax <SEP> 1, <SEP> 5 <SEP> g <SEP> for <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

Exemple 14 (amélioration de l'humeur)
1,5 mg de matière colorante végétale a été mélangé soigneusement avec 1 ml d'huile de carthame et 1 ml d'huile de ricin, puis 1,5 g de cire d'abeille fondue a été incorporé dans ledit mélange à une température de 70oC, après quoi 5 l de tocophérol et 1 ul d'un mélange d'essences de jasmin, de musc et de lavande a été ajouté au mélange précédent qu a ensuite été refroidi à la température ambiante de sorte qu'il était alors prêt pour l'application.

Example 14 (mood enhancement)
1.5 mg of plant dyestuff was thoroughly mixed with 1 ml of safflower oil and 1 ml of castor oil, then 1.5 g of melted beeswax was incorporated into said mixture at a temperature of 70 ° C, after which 5 l of tocopherol and 1 μl of a mixture of jasmine, musk and lavender essences was added to the previous mixture which was then cooled to room temperature so that it was then ready for the application.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Substance <SEP> Quantity <SEP> Percentage
<tb> 1. <SEP> Material <SEP> coloring <SEP> 1, <SEP> 5 <SEP> mg <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP>%
<tb> 2. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Safflower <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 3. <SEP> oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricin <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 4. <SEP> Tocopherol <SEP> 10 <SEP> l <SEP> 0, <SEP> 01 <SEP>%
<tb> 5. <SEP> l <SEP> 0.002 <SEP>%
<tb> (oil <SEP> essential)
<tb> 6. <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

Example 15 (lipstick for men)
1 ml of safflower oil and 1 ml of castor oil were carefully mixed, then 1.5 g of melted beeswax was incorporated in this mixture at a temperature of 70oC, after which 5 l of tocopherol and 1 u. l mixture of sandalwood essence and basil essence was added to the mix

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previous which was then cooled to room temperature so that it was then ready for application.

<Tb>
<tb> Substance <SEP> Quantity <SEP> Percentage
<tb> 1. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Safflower <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 2. <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricin <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> ml <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0%
<tb> 3. <SEP> Tocopherol <SEP> 10 <SEP>. <SEP> l <SEP> 0, <SEP> 01 <SEP>%
<tb> 4. <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> Wood <SEP> of <SEP> Sandalwood <SEP> and <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> 2.0 <SEP><SEP> 0.002%
<tb> basil
<tb> 5. <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

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Table 1: List of aromas that is to say essential oils with. functional characteristics in cosmetic application.

<Tb>
<tb> Characteristics <SEP> functional <SEP> Oils <SEP> essential <SEP> Report <SEP> preferred
<tb> 1. <SEP> Antidepressant <SEP> 1. <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> Ocimum <SEP>: <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasminum <SEP>: <SEP > (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogon
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Ocimum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Mentha <SEP>: <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> essence <SEP> from <SEP> Rosmarinus
<tb> 3. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Mentha <SEP>: <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosmasrinus
<tb> 4. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogon <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Ocimum <SEP>: <SEP> (] <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Mentha
<tb> 5. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Ocimum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogon <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 6. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Mentha <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosmarinus <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 7. <SEP> essence <SEP> from <SEP> Ocimum
<tb> 8. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> rosmarinus
<tb> 2. <SEP> Anti-stress <SEP> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP> (2 <SEP> 1)
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Eucalyptus <SEP>: <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa
<tb> 3. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Eucalyptus <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 4. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Aquillaria <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Elettaria <SEP>: <SEP>(<SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> essence <SEP> from <SEP> Rosmarinus
<tb> 5. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> jasmine
<tb> 6. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum
<tb> 7. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula
<tb> 3. <SEP> Refreshing <SEP> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> (l <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> of <SEP> Rosmarinus
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Tantalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Pelargonium <SEP>: <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 )
<tb> 3. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 4. <SEP> essence <SEP> Lavandula
<tb> 5. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP> (1 <SEP> 2)
<tb> 6. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum
<tb> 4. <SEP> Pleasure <SEP> sensual <SEP> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> from <SEP> Lavandula <SEP>: <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Pelorgonium
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Ocimum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP>)
<tb> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogon
<tb> 3. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasminum
<tb> 4. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Lavandula <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 5. <SEP> Creative SEP> Ideas <SEP> 1. <SEP> Essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Santalum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 6. <SEP> Improvement <SEP> of <SEP> mood <SEP> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasmine <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP > Rosa <SEP>: <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Pelargonium
<tb> 2. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> rosmarinus
<tb> 3. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cymbopogan <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP> (2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 4. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa
<tb> 5. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Jasminum <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa
<tb> 7. <SEP> Anxiety <SEP> 1. <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Rosa <SEP>: <SEP> essence <SEP> of <SEP> Cinnamomum <SEP> (1 <SEP> : <SEP> 2)
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 23>

Tableau 2 : Liste d'isolats d'arômes présentant des caractéristiques fonctionnelles en application cosmétique.

Table 2: List of isolates of flavors with functional characteristics in cosmetic application.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Characteristics <SEP> Functional <SEP> Isolate <SEP> of aroma <SEP> Preferred <SEP> report
<tb> 1. <SEP> Anti-stress <SEP> Citral
<tb> 2. <SEP> Refreshing <SEP> 1. <SEP> Linalool
<tb> 2. <SEP> A) <SEP> coo) <SEP> benzyic
<tb> 3. <SEP> Terpénéol
<tb> 4. <SEP> Terpenol <SEP>: <SEP> linalool <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 3. <SEP> Pleasure <SEP> sensual <SEP> Butyric acid <SEP>
<tb> 4. <SEP> creative SEP> ideas <SEP> 1. <SEP> acid <SEP> isobutyric acid <SEP>: <SEP> acid <SEP> butyric acid <SEP>: <SEP> linalool <SEP>(SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 2. <SEP> acid <SEP> isobutyric acid <SEP>: <SEP> alcohol <SEP> benzylic acid <SEP>: <SEP> linalool <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 1)
<tb> 3. <SEP> acid <SEP> isobutyric acid
<tb> 4. <SEP> linalool <SEP>: <SEP> acid <SEP> butyric <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<tb> 5. <SEP> Improving <SEP> mood <SEP> 1. <SEP> Jasmine
<tb> 2. <SEP> Citral
<tb> 3. <SEP> Eugenol
<tb> 4. <SEP> Citrat
<tb> 5. <SEP> Eugenol <SEP>: <SEP> Citral <SEP> (1 <SEP>: <SEP> 2)
<Tb>

There is a color change of the dyestuffs when they are subjected to treatment with acids or bases. For example, it appears a color change by treatment of the dyestuff with traces of food grade acids, for example acetic acid, less than 0.1%, and there is a change of color by treatment with bases at a rate of less than 0.1%.

 The following four tables give information about color changes due to acid or base treatment.

<Desc / Clms Page number 24>

Table 3: Direct Extraction (Method 1) Color Change with Bases

<Tb>
<tb> Code <SEP> Colors <SEP> Hydroxide <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> Hydroxide <SEP> of <SEP> potassium <SEP> Acetate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium
<tb> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05% <SEP> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0 , <SEP> 05% <SEP> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05%
<tb> 1 <SEP> 58C <SEP> 95A <SEP> 98B <SEP> 98B <SEP> 98B <SEP> 99C <SEP> 100B <SEP> 80D <SEP> 97B <SEP> 97C
<tb> 255A <SEP> 101A <SEP> 100D <SEP> 100B <SEP> 105D <SEP> 94B <SEP> 93D <SEP> 82A <SEP> 97C <SEP> 97D
<tb> 3 <SEP> 58B <SEP> 101B <SEP> 100B <SEP> 100D <SEP> 101D <SEP> 93B <SEP> 93C <SEP> 80C <SEP> 97B <SEP> 97D
<tb> 4 <SEP> 55B <SEP> 95B <SEP> 97D <SEP> 100C <SEP> 107A <SEP> 99C <SEP> 100B <SEP> 80D <SEP> 97C <SEP> 97D
<tb> 5 <SEP> 55C <SEP> 98A <SEP> 98C <SEP> 98D <SEP> 101B <SEP> 92B <SEP> 92D <SEP> 80B <SEP> 97D <SEP> 97D
<tb> 6115B <SEP> 115B <SEP> 114B <SEP> 94C <SEP> 115A <SEP> 114B <SEP> 95D <SEP> 210B <SEP> 97D <SEP> 114D
<tb> 7 <SEP> 115A <SEP> 115A <SEP> 113C <SEP> 113C <SEP> 114D <SEP> 113C <SEP> 115B <SEP> 116B <SEP> 11B <SEP> 113C
<tb> 8 <SEP> 122A <SEP> 122A <SEP> 187B <SEP> 187C <SEP> 122B <SEP> 187C <SEP> 200D <SEP> 201A <SEP> 183C <SEP> 182A
<Tb>
Table 4: Direct extraction (method 1) (color change with acids)

<Tb>
<tb> Code <SEP> Colors <SEP> Acid <SEP> acetic acid <SEP> Acid <SEP> citric acid <SEP> Oxalic acid <SEP>
<tb> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05% <SEP> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0 , <SEP> 05% <SEP> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05%
<tb> 1 <SEP> 58C <SEP> 46C <SEP> 73B <SEP> 65B <SEP> 46B <SEP> 55B <SEP> 56A <SEP> 47D <SEP> 48D <SEP> 49A
<tb> 2 <SEP> 55A <SEP> 55C <SEP> 68C <SEP> 69A <SEA> 51A <SEP> 55C <SEA> 56A <SEA> 51B <SEA> 52C <SEP> 52D
<tb> 3 <SEP> 58B <SEP> 73D <SEP> 75D <SEP> 75D <SEP> 73C <SEP> 38A <SEP> 39C <SEP> 73A <SEP> 69A <SEP> 69A
<tb> 4 <SEP> 55B <SEP> 73B <SEP> 73D <SEP> 73D <SEP> 73C <SEP> 73D <SEP> 69A <SEA> 73A <SEP> 69B <SEP> 69B
<tb> 5 <SEP> 55C <SEP> 70D <SEP> 68D <SEP> 69A <SEP> 73D <SEP> 69A <SEP> 69B <SEP> 68D <SEP> 38A <SEP> 38B
<tb> 6 <SEP> 115B <SEP> 95C <SEP> 94B <SEP> 94C <SEP> 96B <SEP> 95C <SEP> 95D <SEP> 97B <SEP> 97D <SEP> 97D
<tb> 7 <SEP> 115A <SEP> 115B <SEP> 113C <SEP> 113C <SEP> 116C <SEP> 115A <SEP> 115B <SEP> 113A <SEP> 111B <SEP> 111B
<tb> 8 <SEP> 122A <SEP> 200A <SEP> 200C <SEP> 200C <SEP> 200B <SEP> 200C <SEP> 200D <SEP> 183D <SEP> 183C <SEQ> 182A
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 25>

Table 5: Column Extraction (Method 2) (color change with acids)

<Tb>
<tb> Code <SEP> Colors <SEP> Acid <SEP> acetic acid <SEP> Acid <SEP> citric acid <SEP> Oxalic acid <SEP>
<tb> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05 <SEP>% <SEP> 2 <SEP>% <SEP> 0.1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05% <SEP> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05%
<tb> C <SEP> 25B <SEP> 25C <SEP> 24A <SEP> 24A <SEP> 24A <SEP> 24C <SEP> 24C <SEP> 24A <SEP> 24C <SEP> 24A
<tb> C2 <SEP> 31C <SEP> 29B <SEP> 29C <SEP> 29C <SEP> 27A <SEP> 27B <SEP> 27B <SEP> 29B <SEP> 29C <SEP> 27B
<tb> C3 <SEP> 34C <SEP> 33A <SEP> 33C <SEP> 33C <SEP> 33A <SEP> 33C <SEP> 33D <SEP> 33A <SEP> 33C <SEP> 33C
<tb> C4 <SEP> 32C <SEP> 29A <SEP> 28C <SEP> 28D <SEP> 29A <SEP> 28D <SEP> 28D <SEP> 29A <SEP> 28C <SEP> 28D
<tb> Cs <SEP> 33B <SEP> 40C <SEP> 39C <SEP> 39D <SEP> 31B <SEP> 30C <SEP> 30D <SEP> 31C <SEP> 31D <SEP> 31D
<tb> C6 <SEP> 46A <SEP> 46A <SEP> 45C <SEP> 45D <SEP> 32A <SEP> 31B <SEP> 30C <SEP> 33B <SEP> 32A <SEP> 32B
<tb> C7 <SEP> 44A <SEP> 43A <SEP> 40B <SEP> 40C <SEP> 45D <SEP> 42A <SEP> 42B <SEP> 45C <SEP> 44B <SEP> 44C
<tb> C8 <SEP> 46B <SEP> 47B <SEP> 47D <SEP> 47D <SEP> 47B <SEP> 48A <SEP> 48B <SEP> 46C <SEP> 46A <SEP> 46D
<tb> C9 <SEP> 59A <SEP> 60A <SEP> 59D <SEP> 57D <SEP> 59B <SEP> 59D <SEP> 59D <SEP> 60B <SEP> 60C <SEP> 59C
<tb> CIO <SEP> 95A <SEP> 95C <SEP> 94B <SEP> 94C <SEP> 96B <SEP> 95C <SEP> 95D <SEP> 97B <SEP> 97D <SEP> 97D
<tb> Ci, <SEP> 103A <SEP> 200A <SEP> 200C <SEP> 200C <SEP> 187A <SEP> 187C <SEP> 187D <SEP> 187A <SEP> 187C <SEP> 187C
<tb> C) <SEP> 2 <SEP> 114A <SEP> 115B <SEP> 113C <SEP> 113C <SEP> 116C <SEP> 115A <SEP> 115B <SEP> 113A <SEP> 111B <SEP> 111B
<tb> Cl3 <SEP> 187B <SEP> 182A <SEP> 180C <SEP> 180D <SEP> 182C <SEP> 181D <SEP> 181D <SEP> 180B <SEP> 181C <SEP> 181D
<tb> Cl4 <SEP> 187A <SEP> 59A <SEP> 60B <SEP> 60C <SEP> 59B <SEP> 58A <SEP> 58C <SEP> 59D <SEP> 58D <SEP> 58C
<tb> CIS <SEP> 79A <SEP> 187A <SEQ> 183A <SEQ> 183C <SEP> 187B <SEP> 187B <SEQ> 185C <SEP> 182C <SEP> 181D <SEP> 181D
<tb> C16 <SEP> 200A <SEP> 182A
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 26>

Tableau 6 : Extraction sur colonne (procédé 2) (changement de couleur avec des bases)

Table 6: Column Extraction (Method 2) (color change with bases)

<Tb>
<tb> Code <SEP> Colors <SEP> Hydroxide <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> Hydroxide <SEP> of <SEP> potassium <SEP> Acetate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium
<tb> 2% <SEP> 0.1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05% <SEP> 2% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0, <SEP > 05% <SEP> 2% <SEP> 0.1 <SEP>% <SEP> 0, <SEP> 05%
<tb> C1 <SEP> 25B <SEP> 90A <SEP> 89A <SEP> 24A <SEP> 92A <SEP> 89C <SEP> 24C <SEP> 181B <SEP> 24C <SEP> 89D
<tb> C2 <SEP> 31C <SEP> 106B <SEP> 106D <SEP> 29C <SEP> 98B <SEP> 105D <SEP> 27B <SEP> 58C <SEP> 29C <SEP> 105D
<tb> C3 <SEP> 34C <SEP> 86C <SEP> 33C <SEP> 33C <SEP> 83B <SEP> 83C <SEP> 33D <SEP> 171C <SEP> 33C <SEP> 83D
<tb> C4 <SEP> 32C <SEP> 93B <SEP> 93D <SEP> 28D <SEP> 102A <SEP> 99C <SEP> 28D <SEQ> 169C <SEP> 28C <SE> 93C
<tb> Cs <SEP> 33B <SEP> 98B <SEP> 98C <SEP> 39D <SEP> 105C <SEP> 98C <SEP> 30D <SEP> 169B <SEP> 31D <SEP> 99C
<tb> C6 <SEP> 46A <SEP> 103C <SEP> 102C <SEP> 45D <SEP> 98B <SEP> 102D <SEP> 30C <SEP> 34B <SEP> 32A <SEP> 101C
<tb> C7 <SEP> 44A <SEP> 102B <SEP> 102C <SEP> 40C <SEP> 116A <SEP> 102D <SEP> 42B <SEA> 40A <SEA> 44B <SEP> 102D
<tb> C8 <SEP> 46B <SEP> 116B <SEP> 116D <SEP> 47D <SEP> 116A <SEP> 116D <SEP> 48B <SEP> 46A <SEP> 46A <SEP> 116C
<tb> C9 <SEP> 59A <SEP> 116C <SEP> 116D <SEP> 57D <SEP> 115B <SEP> 116D <SEP> 59D <SEP> 53A <SEP> 60C <SEP> 116D
<tb> CIO <SEP> 95A <SEP> 115B <SEP> 144B <SEP> 94C <SEP> 115A <SEP> 114B <SEP> 95D <SEP> 201B <SEP> 97D <SEP> 114D
<tb> Cil <SEP> 103A <SEP> 188A <SEP> 200C <SEP> 200C <SEP> 116B <SEP> 200C <SEP> 187D <SEP> 83B <SEP> 187C <SEP> 200C
<tb> C12 <SEP> 114A <SEP> 115A <SEP> 113C <SEP> 113C <SEP> 114D <SEP> 113C <SEP> 115B <SEP> 116B <SEP> 111B <SEP> 113C
<tb> C, <SEP> 3 <SEP> 187B <SEP> 122B <SEP> 121C <SEP> 180D <SEP> 114B <SEP> 121C <SEP> 181D <SEP> 199C <SEP> 181C <SEP> 119C
<tb> C <SEP> 14 <SEP> 187A <SEP> 120C <SEP> 120D <SEP> 60C <SEP> 114C <SEP> 120D <SEP> 58C <SEP> 201B <SEP> 58D <SEP> 119D
<tb> CIS <SEP> 79A <SEP> 119B <SEP> 119C <SEP> 183C <SEP> 114A <SEP> 187B <SEP> 185C <SEP> 201C <SEP> 181D <SEP> 181D
<tb> C <SEP> 16 <SEP> 200A <SEP> 122A <SEP> 187B <SEP> 187C <SEP> 187B <SEP> 187C <SEP> 200D <SEP> 201A <SEP> 183C <SEP> 182A
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 27>

Tableau 7 : tableau de correspondance des codes de couleurs selon Flowers Council of Holland.

Table 7: Color Council color matching chart by Flowers Council of Holland.

<Tb>
<Tb>

<SEP> Codes
<tb> 1-13 <SEP> group <SEP> yellow
<tb> 14-23 <SEP> group <SEP> yellow-orange
<tb> 24-29 <SEP> group <SEP> orange
<tb> 30-35 <SEP> group <SEP> orange-red
<tb> 36-56 <SEP> group <SEP> red
<tb> 57-74 <SEP> red-purple <SEP> group
<tb> 75-79 <SEP> group <SEP> purple
<tb> 80-82 <SEP> group <SEP> purple-purple
<tb> 83-88 <SEP> group <SEP> purple
<tb> 89-98 <SEP> group <SEP> purple-blue
<tb> 99-110 <SEP> group <SEP> blue
<tb> 111-124 <SEP> group <SEP> blue-green
<tb> 125-143 <SEP> group <SEP> green
<tb> 144-154 <SEP> group <SEP> yellow-green
<tb> 155 <SEP> group <SEP> white
<tb> 156-157 <SEP> group <SEP> gray-white
<tb> 158-159 <SEP> group <SEP> orange-white
<tb> 160-162 <SEP> group <SEP> gray-yellow
<tb> 163-177 <SEP> group <SEP> gray-orange
<tb> 178-182 <SEP> group <SEP> gray-red
<tb> 183-187 <SEP> group <SEP> gray-purple
<tb> 188-198 <SEP> group <SEP> gray-green
<tb> 199-200 <SEP> group <SEP> brown
<tb> 201 <SEP> group <SEP> gray
<tb> 202 <SEP> Group <SEP> black
<Tb>

The different colors presented above are coded according to the RHS color chart in association with Flower Council of Holland and The Royal Horticultural Society, London.

<Desc / Clms Page number 28>

Thus, the plant dyestuffs according to the invention can be added or used without taking into account certification by different bodies such as FAO, WHO and the cosmetic authorities, they are harmless, non-polluting and health protective, they can be used on sensitive and delicate parts of the body such as lips, cheeks and eyelids, they can be used in leukoderma, especially of the lip area, they are 100% lipophilic, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory, devoid of any side effect marked as carcinogenic effects, they can present different shades economically and the addition of different essential oils promotes the stimulation of creative ideas, increases sensual pleasure, promotes positive mental health and well-being and helps to overcome depressive sensations.

Claims (23)

 1. Process for extracting organic dyestuffs from plants, characterized in that it comprises obtaining plant parts, extraction with organic solvents, removal of solvents, concentration of the extract under pressure reduced and possibly treatment with acids or bases to produce different hues.  2. A process for extracting organic dyestuffs, characterized in that it comprises the steps of a) drying of plant parts, b) spraying of the dried plant parts, c) supply of the dried powder obtained in step b) extraction with a Soxhlet apparatus at a temperature of 40 to 80 ° C or cold percolation with organic solvents at a temperature of 20 to 45 ° C; d) concentration of the mixture of step c) under a reduced pressure of 345 x 103 Pa at 6.9 x 105 Pa (50-100 psi) and at a temperature not exceeding 50oC, e) mixing the concentrate of step d) with silica gel in the ratio of 1: 3 to 2 : 7 to obtain a suspension, f) elution of the suspension with organic solvents to produce different fractions, g) concentration of the fractions under a pressure of 345 x 103 Pa at 6.9 x 105 Pa (50-100 psi) to produce vegetable coloring matter, optionally treatment of said dyestuffs with acids or bases to produce different hues, and h) obtaining different colors by treating said fractions with acids or bases to produce dyestuffs of different hues.  3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the organic solvent is selected from polar solvents, non-polar solvents and mixtures thereof.  4. Process according to claim 3, characterized in that the polar solvents are chosen from acetone, chloroform, ethyl acetate, methanol and ethanol. <Desc / Clms Page number 30>

5. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that the non-polar solvents are chosen from petroleum ether, hexane, toluene and cyclohexane.  6. Process for extracting vegetable dyestuffs from plants of the family Boraginaceae, characterized in that it comprises percolating plant parts reduced to powder with alcohol at room temperature to produce a soluble plant material in the alcohol, the concentration of said plant material at pressures of 345 x 103 Pa at 6.9 x 105 Pa (50-100 psi) and at a temperature of 40 to 60oC, the conversion of the resulting concentrate into a suspension with silica gel in a ratio of 1: 3 to 2: 7, eluting said suspension with organic solvents to produce fractions which are further concentrated at a pressure of 345 x 103 Pa to 6.9 x 105 Pa for produce plant dyestuffs which are optionally treated with acids or bases to produce different hues.  7. Method according to claim 1 to 6, characterized in that the plants are selected from the family of Boragnaceae.  8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the plant parts are selected from the roots, stems and leaves and the essential oils are used in amounts which are a function of the parts from which they are extracted.  9. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the plant parts are dried at a temperature of 30 to 45 C in the shade.  10. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the plant parts are reduced to a powder particle size of 250 to 630 μm (60-30 mesh).  11. The method of claim 6, characterized in that the alcohol used is selected from the group consisting of methanol and ethanol.  12. The method of claim 1 to 11, characterized in that the organic solvents are polar solvents selected from acetone, chloroform, ethyl acetate, methanol and ethanol.  13. The method of claim 1 to 12, characterized in that the organic solvents are non-polar solvents selected from petroleum ether, hexane, toluene and cyclohexane. <Desc / Clms Page number 31>

14. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the ratio of polar and non-polar solvents varies depending on the nature of the solvents.  15. Process according to claim 6, characterized in that a mixture of non-polar solvents and chloroform in the ratio 99: 1 to 0: 100 is used.  16. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the dyestuffs are of a purple red, cherry red, ruby red, purple, dark purple, dark blue, pastel red, pale red, pink red, dark magenta, amaranth, dark purple and dark blue.  17. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the acid used is chosen from organic acids such as formic acid and acetic acid or from inorganic acids such as Hic1, HNO3 and H2SO4.  18. The method of claim 17, characterized in that the concentration of the acid is from 0.1% to 10%.  19. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the color change of the coloring material is obtained by treatment with traces of food grade acids such as acetic acid, in an amount of 0. , 1%.  20. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the color change of the dyestuff is obtained by treatment with traces of bases in an amount of 0.1%.  21. Process according to claim 1, wherein the bases are chosen from organic bases such as sodium acetate, KOH, Na2CO3 and NaCl.  22. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 18,20 and 21, characterized in that the concentration of the base is from 0.1% to 20%.  23. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that the plant dyestuff is antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory and is used in leukoderma, more particularly the lips.