FR2818904A1 - Cosmetic deodorant useful as antiperspirant having antibacterial activity against odor-forming species, comprising buchu leaf extract - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic deodorant composition (A) contains an extract (B) of buchu leaves (Barosma betulina and related species). An Independent claim is also included for the use (B) for preparing antibacterial compositions.

Description

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 DEODORANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION, ESPECIALLY ANTI-PERSPIRANT, CONTAINING A BUCHU EXTRACT.

 The present invention relates to new deodorant cosmetic compositions, in particular antiperspirant, having remarkable anti-bacterial properties, containing plant extracts and more particularly an extract of buchu leaves.

 Body sweating results from the activity of the sweat glands. Two types of sweat glands exist: the eccrine glands and the apocrine glands. The eccrine glands are distributed all over the body, while the apocrine glands are always associated with a hair follicle and are mainly found in the armpits, ear canals, eyelids and breast areolas.

 Body sweating from the eccrine glands is a natural phenomenon which aims, on the one hand, to maintain a constant temperature in the body despite the external contribution of heat and, on the other hand, to preserve minimal hydration in the diaper cornea of the epidermis. This perspiration also has an antifungal and antiseptic role mainly due to its acidity (pH between 4.5 and 6.5) which prevents the proliferation of microorganisms. The role of sweat from the apocrine glands is less well characterized.

 Sweat is made up of 99% water and plasma constituents which constitute organic matter. Also, the bacteria present in the hairs with which the apocrine glands are always associated enzymatically degrade the sweat from these glands, which results in an unpleasant odor.

 Cosmetic compositions capable of acting on the inconveniences caused by

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 sweating can therefore present one or more types of function.

 - These compositions can have a perfuming or odor-capturing effect by masking the bad odors produced during the enzymatic degradation of sweat by bacteria.

 They can have an antiperspirant effect by reducing the secretion of the sweat glands. The antiperspirants act first on the canal of the sweat glands, which, by obturation, they slow down in a temporal and functional way. One can also quote the astringents which reduce the cutaneous pores.

 - They can inhibit the proliferation of bacteria.

 Depending on the nature of the substances which they comprise, some of these compositions may have one, two or the three functions above. Therefore, generally designated by the generic term deodorants, compositions comprising one or more antiperspirant, astringent, perfuming, bactericidal active agents, alone or in combination.

 The Applicant has now sought to offer new deodorant cosmetic compositions, in particular antiperspirants, having not only an odor and / or antiperspirant activity but also enhanced anti-bacterial properties. To achieve this goal, the Applicant is interested in various plant extracts including extracts of buchu leaves.

 Buchu is a small bushy shrub endemic to South Africa confined to a very small area. Indeed, it grows on clayey-sandy soils of the Cape region. The evergreen, small, pale green leaves, 1 to 2 cm long, show

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 many punctuations which are as many pockets with gasoline. Among the 3 species of buchu, the most widespread and most commonly used species is Barosma betulina. The general smell of buchu is strong and characteristic. It is both rosemary and peppermint. Thus, a buchu essential oil has already been proposed in perfumery and aromatherapy. In Africa, fishermen of certain tribes rub their hands with buchu leaves in order to remove the smell of the fish. Each year, the buchu is pruned to obtain, as for the tea plant, a bushy tuft and a production of small leafy twigs. The leaves are harvested in March-April after the heavy rains. Buchu leaves mainly contain an essential oil, one of the major constituents of which is diosphenol, also known as buchu camphor, mucilage, resins, flavonoids and sulfur derivatives.

 The bacteriological tests carried out by the Applicant have now enabled it to demonstrate that an extract of buchu leaf slows down the development of the bacteria responsible for the bad odors of perspiration.

 The present invention therefore relates to a deodorant composition, in particular antiperspirant, characterized in that it comprises an extract of buchu leaves. The presence of the buchu extract gives the deodorant compositions, in particular antiperspirants, of the invention remarkable anti-bacterial properties.

 The buchu leaf extract used in the compositions of the invention is a water-soluble extract, advantageously an alcoholic extract and most preferably a glycolic extract.

 It may especially be an extract of buchu leaf containing diosphenol.

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 Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 20% and preferably from 5% to 10% by weight of an extract of buchu leaves containing diosphenol.

 It appears that the optimal bactericidal activity of a composition according to the invention is obtained with a concentration by weight of the glycolic extract of buchu leaves of the order of 5%.

 The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises other substances such as antiperspirants or plant extracts having deodorant properties.

 Thus, the composition according to the invention can comprise a water-soluble extract of witch hazel leaves.

The water-soluble extract of witch hazel leaves is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of between 0.1 and 5% by weight.

 The witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana L.) is a tall shrub of about 6 m very common in Canada and in the North and Southeast of the United States. The smooth branches covered with a gray-brown bark have green and leathery oval leaves. The border of the leaves is clearly asymmetrical at the base, toothed at the edges and marked with protruding ribs on the underside. These ribs carry vector hairs arranged in a star. The leaves and sometimes the witch hazel bark are used, the harvest being carried out during the summer before the leaves turn brown. The main constituents of the leaves are polyphenolic derivatives and among these gallic tannins (8 to 10%) catechic tannins in small quantities, free gallic acid, flavonoids and chlorogenic acid. Thus, the water-soluble extract of witch hazel leaves has an astringent activity due to the high concentration of tannins.

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 An antiperspirant deodorant composition according to the invention also comprises one or more antiperspirant agents, such as aluminum, zinc or zirconium salts. These salts and more particularly aluminum salts are astringent active agents and powerful antiperspirants. They temporarily and functionally regulate sweat secretion by transient obturation of the sweat channel. Advantageously, the aluminum salt used in the composition according to the invention is aluminum hydrochloride. The aluminum salt (s) are present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a proportion of between 0.1 and 20% by weight.

 The compositions of the invention may also comprise at least one astringent active agent chosen from an extract of lemon, cucumber, hops, white lamier, melaleuca, St. John's wort or sage.

 The compositions of the invention can also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fatty substances, water-soluble active agents, gelling agents, emulsifiers, hydrating agents, softeners, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives, perfumes and any other ingredient usually used in cosmetology. Advantageously, the perfume used in the compositions of the invention is an essential oil, the essential oils having a bactericidal effect.

 The compositions of the invention may be in any form known to those skilled in the art in the field of deodorants and in particular in the form of a cream, a roll-on applicator, a spray or a deodorant stick.

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 The present invention also relates to the use of an extract of buchu leaves for the preparation of an anti-bacterial composition. The invention also of course relates to the use of an extract of buchu leaves as an anti-bacterial agent, more particularly for the preparation of deodorant cosmetic compositions, in particular anti-perspirant. As indicated above, it is a water-soluble extract, preferably an alcoholic extract and most preferably a glycolic extract.

 Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear on reading the examples which follow concerning the preparation of deodorant cosmetic compositions, these examples are given by way of illustration and should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the invention.

 Example 1: Preparation of the glycolic extract of buchu leaves.

 Buchu leaves are harvested in March and April after heavy rains. The extraction from the buchu leaves is carried out by the water / butylene glycol mixture. After filtration, the buchu glycolic extract is recovered. This extract is kept with 0.12% methyl paraben and 0.06% propyl paraben to prevent contamination.

 Example 2: Determination of the antibacterial activity of the glycolic extract of buchu leaves.

 Bacteriological tests have been carried out and have shown that the glycolic extract of buchu leaves has activity on the bacteria responsible for the odor.

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 Thus, the minimum concentration of glycolic extract of buchu leaves to be used to inhibit the growth of corynebacterium xerosis, the main germ responsible for the formation of bad odors in humans, has been sought. Thus, the MIC (Minimal Inhibitory Concentration) of glycolic extract of buchu leaves is 5% for corynebacterium xerosis. We can therefore say that at 5%, the glycolic extract of buchu leaves can limit the development of skin bacteria.

This extract will therefore not only have a curative role by masking bad odors but also a preventive antibacterial role allowing upstream to slow down the development of these bad odors.

 Example 3: Preparation of the water-soluble extract of witch hazel leaves.

 The witch hazel leaves are harvested during the summer before they turn brown. The sheets are then coarsely ground to increase the contact surface. The leaves thus ground are subjected to distillation and the distillation head driven by water vapor is recovered and then mixed with propylene glycol.

 The water-soluble extract of witch hazel leaves is therefore obtained by a special distillation process, it contains 50% propylene glycol, which promotes excellent conservation. It is 100 times more concentrated than traditional aromatic distilled water.

 Example 4: Deodorant cosmetic composition in the form of a cream.

Emulsifiers 9,000
5,000 fatty acid esters
4,000 fatty alcohols
Triethyl citrate 0.500

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Gelling agent 1, 000 Preservatives 0, 500
Polyols 4,000
Cyclomethicone 3,000
Aluminum hydrochloride 18,000
Buchu extract 5,000
Witch hazel extract 3,000
Perfume 2,000
Purified water qs 100
Example 5: Cosmetic deodorant composition in the form of a stick.

27,000 fatty alcohol
Emulsifying 1,000
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2,000
Ester of 3,000 fatty acids
Silica 1,000
Aluminum hydrochloride 18,000
Bisabolol 1,000
Buchu extract 5,000
Witch hazel extract 2,000
Perfume 2,000
Cyclic silicone qs 100
Example 6: Deodorant cosmetic composition in the form of a ball applicator.

0.100 sequestering agent
Cellulose derivative 1,000
Preservatives 0.200
Dipropylene glycol 5,000
Aluminum hydrochloride 18,000
Buchu extract 5,000
Witch hazel extract 3,000
1,500 silicone derivative
Solubilizing agent 2,000

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Perfume 1,500 Purified water qs 100
Example 7: Deodorant cosmetic composition in the form of a spray.

Triclosan 0.300
Cyclomethicone 15,000
Bisabolol 0.500
Buchu extract 5,000
Witch hazel extract 3,000
Aluminum hydrochloride 18,000
Perfume 1,000
Ethyl alcohol qs 100

Claims (13)

 1) Deodorant cosmetic composition, in particular antiperspirant, characterized in that it comprises an extract of buchu leaves.  2) Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said extract of buchu leaves is a glycolic extract.  3) Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1 to 20% and preferably from 5 to 10% by weight of extract of buchu leaves.  4) Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a water-soluble extract of witch hazel leaves.  5) Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of witch hazel leaves is present in a proportion of between 0.1 and 5% by weight.  6) Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one antiperspirant agent.  7) Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the antiperspirant agent is chosen from the group comprising aluminum salts, zinc salts and zirconium salts. <Desc / Clms Page number 11>  8) Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that said aluminum salt is aluminum hydrochloride.  9) Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that said aluminum salt is present in a proportion of between 0.1 and 20% by weight.  10) Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one astringent active agent chosen from an extract of lemon, cucumber, hops, white ripe, melaleuca, St. John's wort or sage.  11) Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from fatty substances, water-soluble active agents, gelling agents, emulsifiers, hydrating agents, softeners, antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, preservatives, perfumes or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetology.  12) Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream, a ball applicator, a spray or a deodorant stick.  13) Use of an extract of buchu leaves for the preparation of an antibacterial composition.