FR2768925A1 - COMPOSITIONS FOR COSMETIC OR DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL USE ACTIVE AGAINST MULTIPLE CHEMICAL AGGRESSIONS ON THE SKIN - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a product resulting from the combination of ivy (Hedera helix L.) and sunflower (Helianthus annuus L.) extracts rich in phenolic acids, and rice bran rich in phytic acid, with a hydrating gel consisting of a mixture of acrylic polymer and polyols. Said product resulting from said combination is used for preparing cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions active against the numerous chemical aggressions of the environment on the skin by maintaining the skin at an optimal hydrated level and by reducing skin irritations through an anti-inflammatory effect.

Description

Current living conditions subject organisms to all kinds of aggressions, particularly sound, physical and chemical. As the skin constitutes the only interface between the individual and the outside world, it is clear that this organ is the first bodily element affected by chemical aggressions, better known as pollution in general and atmospheric pollution in particular. To the harmful effects of this pollution on our skin are added those, just as bad, which come from our way of life and which participate more or less in the pollution suffered, among which we can cite, without this list being exhaustive: l air conditioning, combustion gases from automotive or industrial fuels, unbalanced food, stress, alcohol, tobacco.

These attacks are permanent because it is almost impossible to escape them continuously and effectively.

It is therefore in the logic of the cosmetic and dermo-pharmaceutical industries to develop products that help the skin to better withstand, or even correct and / or repair, the harmful effects of this chemical pollution.

The invention which is the subject of this present patent lies in the discovery that the product resulting from the combination of plant extracts, such as those from ivy (Hedera helix L.) and sunflower (Helianthus annuus L.) which are rich in phenolic acids, and that of rice bran which is rich in phytic acid, with a hydrating gel made up of a mixture of acrylic polymer and polyols, makes it possible to protect the skin from the deleterious effects of the main types of pollution encountered currently while these components are ineffective in this indication when used alone. the combination of plant extracts, such as those from ivy (Hedera helix L.) and sunflower (Helianthus annuus L.) which are rich in phenolic acids, and that of rice bran which is rich in phytic acid, with a hydrating gel made up of a mixture of acrylic polymer and polyols, allows, when correctly produced, to obtain a product capable of protecting the skin from the deleterious effects of the main types of pollution currently encountered while these components are ineffective in this indication if used alone.

The ivy extract (Hedera helix L.) is obtained by a process using microwaves (PCT patent / FR96 / 01578) which, after spinning, is taken up in a water / butylene glycol / glycerine mixture.

The sunflower extract (Helianthus annuus L.), which is a methanolic extract, comes in its final form in a water / butylene glycol / glycerin mixture.

Analyzes by high pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) of these extracts reveal the presence of different phenolic-type compounds among which dominate chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid. Compared with other polyphenols commonly used in cosmetics, these hydroxy-cinnamic acids have many advantages such as, for example, better solubility and therefore better availability, satisfactory stability compared to those of tannins, very low coloration and safety demonstrated daily by the large quantities of roasted coffee, fruit (apples, pears, cherries, blueberries) and fresh vegetables (chicory, artichoke) which are consumed worldwide and which each contain at least one of these molecules.

Finally, no irritant, cytotoxic, genotoxic or mutagenic effects have been reported to date.

Extracts which contain phenolic compounds (for example chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid) have strong protective activities, cellular or extracellular, against the deleterious activities of free radicals and enzymes like elastase and hyaluronidase (patent application 97/04525 of 04/10/97 for example).

Although the product resulting from the previously described association which is the subject of this patent also has anti-radical activities, the latter already described in the above patent, will not be explained again.

Phytic acid is well known for complexing metals.

The latest examples of obtaining these extracts are not limiting. It is possible to make extracts from ivy (Hedera helix L.), sunflower (Helianthus annuus L.) and rice by other methods such as, for example, simple decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves or finally countercurrent techniques.

Furthermore, the extraction solvents mentioned above are not limiting and can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols or any mixture of these solvents.

The hydrating gel of the combination described above consists of a mixture of acrylic polymer and polyols, in particular glycerin, without this example being limiting. The hydrating effect of the product resulting from this mixture, already described in patent application PCT / FR96 / 01229, is considered to be acquired and will therefore not be explained again, although the product resulting from the previously described association making the The object of this present patent also has this hydrating activity at the cutaneous level.

The following two examples will demonstrate only two of the effects of the product resulting from the previously described combination which is the subject of this patent, without being limiting as to the other cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical activities which have been found during the development of this new product. .

Example 1:
This example demonstrates the protective effect of the product resulting from the previously described association which is the subject of this patent with respect to skin cells subjected to the aggression of tobacco smoke, a widely spread aggression which is meets daily, both in private and professional life.

The protocol used is an adaptation of that described previously by Nakayama T. et al. (GANN, 75, 95-98, 1984).

A cigarette is attached to the end of a vacuum flask which contains 5 ml of Dimethyl
Sulfoxide (DMSO). A glass tube immersed in DMSO is connected to the end of the cigarette in the vial. After lighting the cigarette, while maintaining a slight depression in the vial by a pump, the smoke from the cigarette passes entirely through the DMSO and saturates it by bubbling. Under these conditions the radical forms of oxygen are trapped and stabilized. Normal human fibroblasts are then exposed to increasing amounts (1 to 5%) of this DMSO, for 30 minutes, in the presence or in the absence of the product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this present. patent. The parameter measured, the cell mortality observed at the end of the test, reveals a strong cytotoxicity of cigarette smoke since the passage of only 2% of the total smoke of a cigarette results in the death of 79 t 8 % of cells involved. The test has been standardized to obtain a lower but reproducible mortality.

Under these conditions, in the absence of the product resulting from the previously described combination forming the subject of this patent, the mortality induced by cigarette frime was 13 + 0.7%. In the presence of 1, 3 and 5% of the product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this patent, this mortality was 9.1 + 0.5 respectively; 4.5 + 0.2 and 4.3 + 0.3%, which represents a statistically significant protection of 30, 65 and 67% respectively of the toxic effect. These data are the result of 6 separate experiments.

Example N02
This example reports the protection observed on the cytotoxic effects of sulfur dioxide (SO2) which is a gas found in atmospheric pollution in general and in more specific cases such as gases from car exhausts and the combustion of coal or fuel. In an aqueous medium, as in the case of acid rain, but also in the intracellular space, this dissolved gas is transformed into bisulfite and metabisulfite, the cytotoxicity of which is known, especially on bronchial cells.

Schematically, normal human fibroblasts are seeded in a culture medium for optimal growth. After attaching the cells to the support (96-well microplates), the medium is exchanged for a buffer containing either 3% water or 3% of the product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this present patent , in the presence of increasing amounts of sodium sulfite (Na2S205): OmM, 5mM, 10mM and 20mM. After 20 minutes of incubation, cell mortality is evaluated by the MTT test which reflects mitochondrial respiration and therefore the viability of the cells studied. The number of living cells involved and found alive in the control operations carried out in parallel but without sodium sulfite (OmM) was 14,100 + 250 in the absence of the product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this present patent and of 14250 + 180 in its presence. The values given below are the results of 6 independent experiments.

In the absence of the product resulting from the previously described combination which is the subject of this patent, the number of cells surviving in the presence of 5, 10 and 20 mM of sodium sulfite was respectively equal to 8,000 t 280, 3,200 t 125 and 2,200 + 90.

Under the same conditions, but in the presence of the product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this patent, the number of surviving cells was equal to 10,600 t 320, 11,750 t 450 and 6,530 t 230 respectively, which represents a statistically significant increase in cell survival rate of 32, 267 and 197%, respectively.

The product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this patent, can be used in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical products of all kinds.

In addition to the activities demonstrated above, by the nature of the various constituents used, such preparations have protective effects against the multiple chemical attacks of the environment on the skin by maintaining the skin at an optimal level of hydration. as well as by reducing skin irritations by an anti-inflammatory effect. These preparations therefore prolong the suppleness and the protective function of the skin.

The product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this patent, can be used in any dosage form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils, without this list being exhaustive.

It is possible to incorporate the product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this patent, in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, to absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.

The product resulting from the previously described association which is the subject of this patent, can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or fat-soluble active ingredients, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.

The product resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this present patent is used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.

Ivy and sunflower extracts can be obtained from the whole plant or, preferably, from the flowering and dry aerial part.

The concentrations of the various constituents of the product resulting from the previously described combination which is the subject of this patent can vary between 0.01% and 20% (w / w), preferably between 1% and 5% (w / w) for the ivy extract (Hedera helix L.); between 0.01% and 20% (w / w), preferably between 1% and 5% (w / w) for the sunflower extract (Helianthus annuus L.); 0.01% and 20% (w / w), preferably between 1% and 5% (w / w) for phytic acid; between 65% and 90% (w / w), preferably between 65% and 85% (w / w) for the hydrating gel consisting of a mixture of acrylic polymer and polyols. The concentration of use of the product resulting from this association can vary between 0.01 and 50% (w / w), preferably between 1 and 5%, by weight, in the finished product.

The product resulting from the combination described above is used in cosmetic applications which correct and / or repair at the cutaneous level, the direct or indirect harmful consequences of atmospheric chemical pollution such as, for example, without this list being exhaustive, by hydrating, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, anti-radical effects; beneficial effects on the scalp (dandruff) or on acne skin and therefore which prolong the suppleness and the protective function of the skin.

Claims (15)

 are used in isolation.  currently while these components are ineffective in this indication when  protect the skin from the harmful effects of the main types of pollution encountered  a hydrating gel made up of a mixture of acrylic polymer and polyols, allows  rich in phenolic acids, and rice bran which is rich in phytic acid, with  from ivy (Hedera helix L.) and sunflower (Helianthus annuus L.) which are  contain the product resulting from the combination of plant extracts, such as those  CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions characterized in that they 2. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claim 1,  characterized in that the extracts of ivy (Hedera helix L.) and of sunflower (Helianthus  annuus L.), are obtained from the whole plant or, preferably, from the part  floral and dry aerial. 3. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 2  characterized in that the ivy extract (Hedera helix L.) is obtained by the use of  microwave which, after spinning, is taken up in a water / butylene glycol / mixture  glycerin.  finally counter-current techniques.  decoction, leaching, reflux extraction, ultrasonic extraction or  maceration techniques or by other methods such as, for example, the simple  characterized in that microwave extraction can be replaced by 4 Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 3 5. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 2  characterized in that the sunflower extract (Helianthus annuus L.) is obtained by  extraction with methanol which, after evaporation, is taken up in a water / butylene mixture  glycol / glycerin.  or finally techniques against the current.  leaching, reflux extraction, ultrasonic or microwave extraction  maceration or by other processes such as, for example, simple decoction,  characterized in that methanolic extraction can be replaced by techniques 6 Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 2 and 5 7. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 6  characterized in that the extraction solvents used are chosen from water,  propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, ethers  methyl or ethyl diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated diglycols or  propoxylates or any mixture of these solvents. 8. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of  Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the product resulting from the combination described  above which is the subject of this patent is used either in liquid form or in  dry form obtained by conventional precipitation, drying techniques,  evaporation, atomization or lyophilization. 9. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of  Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the concentrations of the various constituents  of the product resulting from the previously described association which is the subject of this patent  can vary between 0.01% and 20% (w / w), preferably between 1% and 5% (w / w)  for ivy extract (Hedera helix L.); between 0.01% and 20% (w / w), preferably  between 1% and 5% (w / w) for sunflower extract (Helianthus annuus L.); 0.01% and 20  % (w / w), preferably between 1% and 5% (w / w) for phytic acid; between 65% and  90% (w / w), preferably between 65% and 85% (w / w) for the hydrating gel formed  of a mixture of acrylic polymer and polyols.  finished.  between 0.01 and 50% (w / w), preferably between 1 and 5% (w / w), by weight, in the product  resulting from the combination described above which is the subject of this patent, may vary  Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the concentration of use of the product 10 Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of the 11. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of  Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the product resulting from the combination described  above subject of this patent can be used in any dosage form  used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: HIE and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions,  gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, ointments, lotions  capillaries, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils. 12. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of  Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the product resulting from the combination described  above which is the subject of this patent is incorporated into cosmetic vectors  such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as  macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, or absorbed on powdery organic polymers,  talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports. 13. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of  Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the product resulting from the combination described  above which is the subject of this patent is combined in the compositions  cosmetics with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: lipids  extraction and / or synthesis, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and  emulsifiers, water- or fat-soluble active ingredients, extracts from other plants, extracts  tissues, marine extracts. 14. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of  Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the product resulting from the combination described  above which is the subject of this patent is used in cosmetic applications  which correct and / or repair the cutaneous direct harmful effects of pollution  atmospheric chemical such as, for example, without this list being exhaustive, air  air-conditioned, automobile or industrial fuel combustion gases, food  unbalanced, stress, alcohol, tobacco.  the skin.  or on acne skin and therefore which prolong the suppleness and the protective function of  inflammatory, anti-radical; beneficial effects on the scalp (dandruff)  list is exhaustive, by moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti  indirect atmospheric chemical pollution such as, for example, without this  which correct and / or repair at the cutaneous level, the direct harmful consequences or  above which is the subject of this patent is used in cosmetic applications  Claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the product resulting from the combination described 15 Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of