FR2837383A1 - Use of Undaria pinnatifida seaweed extract in cosmetic or dermatological compositions for protecting the skin and visible organs from the harmful effects of oxygen radicals and atmospheric pollution - Google Patents

Abstract

Extract of Undaria pinnatifida seaweed is used as an active ingredient in cosmetic or dermatological compositions for protecting the skin and visible organs from the harmful effects of oxygen radicals and atmospheric pollution.

Description

USE OF AN EXTRACT OF U1VDARIA PIATIFIDA ALGAE

  IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS OR

  ACTIVE DERMOPHARMACEUTICS AGAINST SPECIES

  OXYGEN RADICALARIES AND VARIOUS TYPES OF

  s POLLUTIONS The invention which is the subject of this present patent lies in the discovery that compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use incorporating an extract prepared from the seaweed Undaria pinnatif da, alone or in combination with at least one other active principle, allow to protect the skin or the integuments from the deleterious effects induced by the oxygenated radical species and

  the main types of air pollution encountered today.

  The alga Undaria pinnatif da (Harvey) Suringar is a marine macroalga belonging to the Phylum Heterclontophyta and to the class of Phaeophyta (brown algae). She is known by various vernacular names: Wakame in Japan, Myok

  in Korea, Qundai-cai in China and sea fern in Europe.

  Consumed by Man for millennia in the Far East and for a few years in the West, it reveals a balanced composition in salts

  minerals, nitrogen compounds and vitamins.

  This alga is also used in Asian medicine. Indeed, in addition to its nutritional qualities, it has many biological properties, among which antibiotic activities (Saito & Sameshina, 1955 - J. Agr. Chem. Soc. Japan 29: 427-430, Kamimoto, 1955Japan J. Bacteriol. 10 : 897-902), antitumor (Ohigashi et al., 1992 Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem. 56: 994-995), anti-leukemia (Furusawa et al., 1991 - Cancer Lett. 56: 197-205) without this exhaustive list of activities. By the documents US Patent 5089481, it is known that

  its antiviral activities are due to a polysaccharide linked to a protein.

  It has also been reported that white rats poisoned with nicotine and then fed with Undaria pinnatif da algae powder regained better health than they had before the poisoning. This activity would be linked to the presence of a compound of chemical nature still unknown present in the unsaponifiable fraction of the ethereal extract (Watanabe, 1968 in Takagi, 1975 Seaweeds in Medecine, Advance of Phycology in Japan, pp. 321-325 and in Nisizawa, 1979- Pharmaceutical studies on marine algae in Japan - Marine Algae

  in Pharmaceutical Science, vol.1, pp. 243-264).

  On the other hand, it is known that the euzymatic depolymerization products of a sodium alginate, extracted from brown algae, have protective effects against the aggressions of ambient air pollution (Codif International patent

FR 2,779,953).

  However, the authors of the present invention have found, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that the extracts of Undaria pinnatif da, of low molecular weight, consisting in particular of small molecules, essentially mineral salts, amino acids and oligopeptides (therefore completely devoid of hydrocollode fraction, in particular alginic acid, alginates and oligoalginates), exhibited remarkable in vitro effects against the aggressions caused by several reactive oxygenated species and various types of induced environmental chemical pollution by tobacco smoke, but also by carbon dioxide

  sapper and heavy metals, especially lead and cadmium.

  2s These results made it possible to envisage the use of these extracts in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical products, more particularly in all the applications in which protection is sought vis-à-vis oxidative stress and pollution whose effects are quite as neLast in skin and

  integuments, especially of the hair.

  In an advantageous embodiment, the algae extracts according to the present invention are aqueous extracts characterized in that the extraction is carried out from thalli or any part of thalli in fresh form,

  frozen, dry, whole, fragmented or crushed.

  The extracts are advantageously obtained by maceration of the thalli in a solvent or a mixture of solvents followed by filtration and centrifugation

to remove particles.

  lo In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extract thus obtained is calibrated by successive ultrafiltrations and concentrations in order to obtain an extract of molecular weight less than 5000 Daltons. The extract does

  contains neither alginic acid, nor alginates, nor oligoalginates.

  As solvents advantageously used, mention may be made of water, chlorinated solvents such as chloroform, ethers such as ethyl ether, acetone, C2 to C8 esters such as ethyl acetate and l butyl acetate, C1 to C6 alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, C2 to C6 polyols such as propylene glycol and butylene glycol, without this list being

  limiting. These solvents can be used alone or as a mixture.

  The extraction can be repeated several times until the exhaustion of

  thalli according to methods well known to those skilled in the art.

  2s The proportion by mass between the solvent and the material to be extracted can vary within wide limits. More precisely it can be between 15: 1 and 7: 1

and preDerence 10: 1.

  Improvements, optimizations and modifications of the process for preparing the extracts are conceivable. Instead of simple maceration, we can use countercurrent techniques, decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction using ultrasound or microwave, associated or not. the

  solvents, extraction using supercritical fluids.

  For certain cosmetic applications, it may be advisable to concentrate and purify the liquid extract or even to prepare a dry extract from liquid extract, for example by conventional drying techniques,

  precipitation, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.

  The important discovery of the present patent is the fact that this extract of Undaria pinnatif da has effective activities both against several reactive oxygen species, - several types of atmospheric pollution, notably those 1S resulting from sulfur dioxide, tobacco smoke and various

  heavy metals including lead and cadmium.

  Some nonlimiting examples will illustrate the invention.

  Example No. 1: Preparation of an Extract According to the Invention g of thalli of Undaria pinnatifda, previously dried and ground, are introduced into 600 ml of water. The suspension is left at room temperature with moderate stirring for only 30 minutes in order to avoid extraction of the

  2s hydro co lloides. It is then filtered and centrifuged to remove the particles.

  The supernatant is then subjected to successive ultrafiltrations so as to obtain an extract of molecular weight less than 5000 Daltons. The extract is finally

  concentrated until the calibration of its activities.

  EXAMPLE 2 Demonstration of the Protective Effect Against Several Resective Oxystene Species The following three examples demonstrate three of the protective effects in vitro of the extract of Undaria pinnative da prepared according to the invention vis-à-vis several reactive oxygen species, without this being limiting as regards the other cosmetic and dermocosmetic activities which have been demonstrated during

  of the development of this cosmetic agent.

  0 2-1 Urotective effect of DNA vis-à-vis the oxven sinaulet This example demonstrates the protective effect of the extract of Undaria pinnatif da

  prepared according to the invention, with respect to singlet oxygen.

  Singlet oxygen is a powerful non-radical oxidant that reacts quickly without a catalyst with numerous organic structures, in particular

  DNA. It is very diffusible and therefore very toxic.

  Experimental conditions: The protocol used is the in vitro 3D test (SFRI) on plasmid DNA. It is a system for detecting damage on DNA captured on a microplate (Analytical Biochemistry, 1995, 232: 37-42). Singlet oxygen is

  generated by illumination of methylene blue.

  A stock solution of methylene blue at 10 g / ml was diluted with

  concentration of 4ng / ml in ultrapure water (MilliQ quality from Millipore).

  This solution is mixed in equal volume with different dilutions of the Undaria extract (1% - 2.5% and 10%). 501 of the mixture are added to the wells of a microplate containing adsorbed plasmid DNA. The whole is then

  lit for 20 minutes under two 100 watt lamps, 30 cm apart.

  - 6 - The other stages of the test are as follows: - stage of repair of lesions by specific repair complexes. During the resynthesis phase of the excised DNA strand, a biotin-labeled nucleotide is incorporated into the DNA, - step of recognition of biotin by an avidin molecule coupled to a peroxidase molecule, - step of revelation of the reaction by addition of a chemiluminescent substrate of

peroxidase.

  Results: For a better visualization of the results, these are expressed as the percentage of inhibition of the formation of oxidative damage on DNA or percentage of protection. The value 0% corresponds to the repair signal of

DNA damaged by the oxidant alone.

  The percentage of inhibition or protection (P) in the presence of reactive oxygen species (EOR) is calculated as the relative decrease in the lesional effect due to singlet oxygen, ie: [RLu oxidant] - [RLU (oxidant + sample)] () --------------------------------- _ _ _ x 1 00 [RLU oxidant ]

  with RLU: Relative Light Units.

  The specific protection reflects the anti-free radical activity due to

the tested extract.

  The results obtained show that in the presence of the Undaria extract prepared according to the invention at the concentration of 1% - 2.5% and 10%, the protection

  specific DNA is 39% - 50% and 73%, respectively.

  - 7 - 2-2 Anti-free radical anti-radical effect vis-à-vis the superoxid anion and hvdroene perode This example demonstrates the protective effect of the extract of Undaria pinnative da according to the invention on skin cells ( human keratinocytes and fibroblasts) subjected to the production of superoxide anions and hydrogen peroxide generated by the hypoxanthine (HX) -xanthine oxidase (XO) system. The cell attack is rapid and especially in relation to the membrane alterations caused by the

hydrogen peroxide.

  Experimental conditions: The protocol used in this example is adapted from Christmas work

  Hudson et al., (1990 - Int. J. Cosmetic Sc., 12: 105-114).

  Suspensions of human keratinocytes and fibroblasts are seeded in their respective culture medium in 96-well microplates at the rate of 7,000 and 10,000 cells per well respectively. After 24 h of incubation, at 37 ° C. in an atmosphere at 5% CO 2, the medium is eliminated and replaced by

new middle.

  The doses of hypoxanthine in the PBS buffer and of xanthine oxidase in the same buffer applied to the keratinocytes and to the fibroblasts are respectively the following: 80 g.mliet 1601lg.mli for hypoxanthine, 40

  mU.ml 'and 5 mU.ml-' for xanthine oxidase.

  The extract of Undaria pinnatif da prepared according to the invention is tested at three different concentrations (2.5% - 5% and 10%) for the two cell types. It is administered in three ways, namely before exposure to aggression for 24 hours (P1), during exposure to aggression for 150 minutes (P2) and before and

  during exposure to aggression (P1 + P2 = P3).

  After the assault, the cells are subjected to the MTT cell viability test (Mosmann, 1983 - Immunol. Methods, 65: 55-63, Denizot & Lang, 1986

Immunol. Methods, 89: 271).

  Results: The percentage of anti-radical protective activity C is determined by the following equation: C (%) = [(A - B) / A] x 100 for which A = [(DO.CW - DO EW) / DO CW] X 100

  B = [(DO.TCW-DO TEW) / DO TCW] X 1OO

  with OD optical densities CW control wells (cells only) EW exposed wells (cells exposed to the HX-XO system) TCW control wells treated (cells with the Undaria extract according to the invention) TEW treated and exposed wells (treated cells with the algal extract according to

  the invention and exposed to the HX-XO system).

  The results below represent the average of three experiments with 3 points for each treatment. The means are expressed with a risk

of error a = 0.05.

  For a dose of 5% of extract according to the invention and with the experimental conditions defined in this patent, the anti-free radical protective activity (in%) is for - the keratinocytes of 7.8 + 0.9 for P1, 11 , 1 + 0.4 for P2 and 20.9 + 1 for P3 - dermal fibroblasts of 9 + 0.2 for P1, 22 + 0.5 for P2 and 32.9 + 0.4 for P3. The analyzes carried out by the inventors clearly demonstrate that the Undaria extract according to the invention has a protective anti-radical effect both on keratinocytes and on human dermal fibroblasts subjected to aggression

  of the hypoxanthine-xanthine oxidase system.

  Introducing the extract at various stages of cell culture (before and / or during the enzymatic attack) also makes it possible to specify the mode of action.

extract.

  - In the P1 administration, the extract is eliminated from the culture medium before the attack. The recorded activity reveals that the Undaria extract prepared according to the invention is capable of penetrating both keratinocytes and

  fibroblasts to protect them from intracellular free radicals.

  s - In the administration P2, the extract of Undaria prepared according to the invention is present at the time when the enzymatic aggression takes place. The recorded activity proves that the extract was able to intercept the free radicals formed at

  inside the two cell types.

  - The data recorded for P3 (= P1 + P2) confirm the anti-free radical protective capacity of the extract of Undaria pinnatifida object of this patent for keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts vis-à-vis the superoxide anion and hydrogen peroxide generated by the system

  enzymatic hypoxanthine-xanthine oxidase.

  is 2-3 E and anti-UVA protective agent This example demonstrates the protective effects of the extract which is the subject of the present patent on fibroblastic cells in culture subjected to ultraviolet radiation. WAs generate several reactive oxygenated species inside cells, in particular singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radicals and hydrogen peroxide (Morlière et al., 1992 - Pathol. Biol. 40: 160-168, Morlière, 1996 Cosmetology 11: 32-36). They are capable of causing deep and insidious skin damage (Béani, 1996 - Ann. Dermatol.Venereol. 123: 666-674;

  2s Moyal et al., 1998 - Nouv. Dermatol. 17: 326-329).

  Experimental conditions and results: Fibroblasts are seeded with EMEM culture medium

  supplemented with fetal calf serum (10%) in 96-well microplates.

  After 24 hours of incubation, the medium is removed and replaced with new medium. Additions of the Undaria extract to the culture medium (doses tested: 2% and 4%) are carried out before and during exposure to the aggression of long WA radiation, 366 nm) for 6 hours. The viability test by

  MTT reduction is achieved 24 hours after the assault.

  The percentage of anti-free radical activity C is determined according to the equation defined for example 2, paragraph 2, page 8. The results are

  expressed with a risk of error oc = 0.05.

  The anti-UVA protective activity of the extract of Undaria pinnative da according to the present lo patent at doses of 2% and 4% is respectively 93% + 3% and 94% + 3%. Example No. 3: Demonstration of the Protective Effect Against Several Types of Pollution This example demonstrates the protective effect of the extract of Undaria pinnative of the subject of the invention, with respect to fibroblast cells in culture subjected to three types of atmospheric aggression: sulfur dioxide, tobacco smoke and

heavy metals: lead and cadmium.

  The parameter measured is the cell viability evaluated at the end of the test by the standard MTT test. All the results are expressed as a percentage of protective activity relative to the control cells from the following formula: C (%) = [(AB) A] x 100 for which A = [(DOCT - D OCA) / D OCT] X 100

  B = [(D OCTE - D OCAE) / D OCTE] X 100

  with: OD: optical densities CT: non-aggressive control cells, cultured without Undaria extract CA: damaged cells, not protected by the Undaria extract CTE: unaggressive control cells, cultured in the presence of Undaria extract prepared according to the invention

  CAE: attacked cells, protected by Undaria extract.

  The means are expressed with a risk of error o = 0.05.

  3-1 - In Vitro Protection Against Sulfur Dioxide This example demonstrates the protective effects of the extract according to the invention

  on cultured fibroblasts subjected to aggression with sodium bisulfite.

  Greenhouse oxides are lethal in most air pollution disasters. Sulfur dioxide comes from the combustion of the sulfur contained in fuels (fuel oil, coal) with oxygen from the air. Associated with suspended particles, it represents one of the most ubiquitous air pollutants and the most dangerous for health. This gas, very soluble in water, then turns into bisulfite and metabisulfite, the toxicity of which

is formidable for our cells.

  Experimental conditions and results: Fibroblasts are seeded in 96-well plates in conventional EMEM medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum. After 24 hours of incubation at 37 ° C. in an atmosphere at 5% CO 2, the culture medium is eliminated. The cells are subjected to aggression with sodium bisulfite in PBS buffer (two doses tested: 5 mM and 10 mM) for 20 minutes. The Undaria extract according to the invention is added during the exposure to aggression (two concentrations tested: 2% and 4%). The cell viability test by reduction to

  MTT is performed at the end of the test.

  Under these experimental conditions and at the concentration of 2% of extract of Undaria according to the invention, the protective activity is respectively 69% + 3.5%

  and 87% + 4.2% in the presence of 5 mM and 10 mM sodium bisulfite.

  Under these same experimental conditions but at the concentration of 4% of extract of Undaria according to the invention, the protective activity increases to - 12 101% + 4.8% and 122% + 5.6% respectively in the presence of 5 mM and 10 rnM sodium bisulfite. 3-2 - In Vitro Protection Against Tobacco Fimoe This example demonstrates the protective effect of the extract of Undaria pinnatifida according to the invention with respect to fibroblast cells subjected to the aggression of the

tobacco smoke.

  Tobacco smoke contains a variety of oxidants: more than one

  lo billion free radicals in each puff (Borek, 1998 - A.I.M. 49: 43-48).

  Smoking is one of the major causes of premature aging of

  the skin (Frances, 1993- Nouv. Dermatol. 12: 237-239).

  Experimental conditions and results: The method used in this example for the application of aggression is adapted from the protocol developed by Nakayama et al., (1984 - Gann 75: 95 98). It makes it possible to obtain DMSO saturated with tobacco smoke by bubbling, which

  stabilizes the free radicals formed.

  Fibroblasts are cultured in 96-well plates in conventional MEM medium with 10% fetal calf serum. After elimination of the culture medium, they are subjected for 30 minutes to the aggression of DMSO saturated with brown tobacco smoke (2 doses tested: 1 and 2 cigarettes). Three concentrations of saturated DMSO are tested: 1% - 2% and 4% in the medium of complete culture. The addition of Undaria pinnafifida extract (two concentrations tested: 2 OR 4%) is carried out during exposure to aggression. The viability test

  cell reduction by MTT is performed at the end of the trial.

  Under these experimental conditions and at the concentration of 2% of Undaria extract according to the invention, the protective activity is respectively 36% + 2.7%, - 13 39% + 3% and 40% + 3, 6% in the presence of 1% - 2% and 3% of DMSO saturated with the

smoke from a single cigarette.

  Under these same experimental conditions but at the concentration of 4% s of Undara extract according to the invention, the protective activity is respectively 37% + 2.9%, 40% + 3.5% and 44% + 3.8% in the presence of 1% 2% and 3% of DMSO

  saturated with the fumoe of two cigarettes.

  3-3 - Orotective effect in vitro with respect to heavy metals: olomb and cadmium This example demonstrates the protective effect of the extract according to the invention on fibroblasts in culture subjected to various doses of the two heavy metals: lead

and cadmium.

  Lead and cadmium are among the heavy metals most toxic to human health and the environment. They have the property of accumulating in the body. They can thus generate a risk of toxicity involving

  possible carcinogenic properties.

  Experimental conditions and results: Fibroblasts are seeded in multiwell plates in conventional EMEM medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum. After 24 hours of incubation at 37 ° C. in an atmosphere with 5% CO 2, the culture medium is eliminated. The cells are subjected to the aggression of solutions of heavy 2s metals in PBS. Three doses are tested for each metal, namely for lead chloride: 0.25 mM, 0.5 mM and 1 mM for 30 minutes and for cadmium sulLate: 0.05 mM, 0.1 mM and 0.2 mM for 15 minutes. The addition of the extract according to the invention (two concentrations tested: 2% and 4%) is carried out during exposure to aggression. The cell viability test by reduction to

  MTT is performed at the end of the test.

  - 14 Under these conditions and at the concentration of 2% of Undaria extract prepared according to the invention, the protective activity is respectively 85% + 3.9%, 122% + 4.3% and 172% + 5.1% in the presence of 0.25 mM, 0.5 mM and 1 mM

lead chloride.

  Under these same conditions but at the concentration of 4% of extract of Undaria according to the invention, the protective activity is respectively 95% + 3.6%,% + 4% and 179% + 4.9% in presence of 0.05 mM, 0.1 mM and 0.2 mM of

cadmium sulLate.

  Conclusion The above examples demonstrate that the extract prepared from the macroalga Undaria pinnatifda according to the invention has powerful protective effects in vitro against: - several reactive oxygen species,

  - several types of environmental aggression.

  This extract which is the subject of this patent can advantageously be incorporated into cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions, said compositions containing it, alone or in combination with at least one other active ingredient, but in an effective amount, in the presence of an excipient suitable for

topical application.

  The final composition of the extract intended to be used in said compositions consists in a proportion which can vary between 0.1% and 40% (w / w),

  preferably between O, S and 10%.

  Various forms of formulations for topical applications can be produced. They include any dosage form used in cosmetics and dermopharmacy: gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, - 15 O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, body oils,

  shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, patches, sprays.

  The extract of Undaria pinnatif da according to the invention can be combined in said cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with any other ingredient usually used in formulations: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosant polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers , water- or fat-soluble active ingredients, plant extracts, marine extracts, extracts

  tissue without this list being exhaustive.

  It is possible to incorporate this algal extract according to the invention into any suitable cosmetic carrier such as, for example, film-forming agents,

  liposomes, chylomicrons, cyclodextrins, micelles, macro-, micro-

  and nanoparticles of macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, or to absorb them on organic polymers and mineral supports. It is also possible to incorporate the Undaria extract prepared according to

  the invention in textiles for continuous topical release.

  The extract of Undaria pinnatifda according to the invention is used in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical applications intended for the care of reactive skin and sensitive skin to help them better withstand or even repair the direct or indirect harmful effects of radical species of the 'oxygen induced during many reactions, including irradiation by 2s ultraviolet radiation and all kinds of aggressions due to chemical pollution of the environment. Additionally the effects of this extract is to prolong the function

protective of the skin.

  The extract of Undaria pinnatifda according to the invention can also be used for other skin care and hygiene applications (face and body products, day and night products, sun products, anti-wrinkle products) but also in the field of hair care and hygiene (lotions, shampoos, creams, foams, protective products, repairers, photoprotectors) and products for the nails (creams, lotions, film formers, protectors , repairers, varnishes) and finally lip products (lipstick, balms,

  applicator sticks) without these lists being exhaustive.

- 17

Claims (8)

  1 - Use of an extract of the brown alga Undaria pinnatif da (Harvey) Suringar as an active agent for the preparation of cosmetic or dermo pharmaceutical compositions of stine es for topical use to protect the skin and appendages deleterious effects caused by oxygenated radical species and atmospheric pollution.   2 - Use according to claim 1 in that one carries out the extraction from thalli or any part of thalli of said alga in fresh form,   0 frozen, dry, whole, fragmented or crushed.   3 - Use according to any one of claims 1 and 2 in that it   it is an extract with a molecular weight of less than 5000 Daltons.   4 - Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in that   said extract is devoid of hydrocolloid fraction, in particular of alginic acid, alginates and oligoalginates.   - Use according to any one of claims l to 4 in that   the said extract is obtained by maceration of the thalli of the said alga, followed by   iFiltration, centrifugation, ultrafiltration and concentration.   6 - Use according to claims 2 to 5 in that the maceration can   be replaced by current techniques, decoction, reflux extraction, extraction using ultrasound, microwave associated or not with   solvents, extraction with supercritical fluids.   7 - Use according to any of claims 2 to 6 in that the   extraction solvent is chosen from the group consisting of water, chlorinated solvents such as chloroform, ethers such as ethyl ether, acetone, C2 to C8 esters such as ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, C1 to C6 alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, polyols in   C2 to C6 such as propylene glycol and butylene glycol and their mixtures.   8 - Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7 characteristics   in that said extract is used either in liquid form or in dry form   obtained by drying, precipitation, atomization, evaporation or lyophilization. - 18   9 - Use according to any one of claims 1 to characterized   in that said extract is incorporated or associated with a suitable cosmetic vector such as for example film-forming agents, liposomes, chylomicrons, micelles, cyclodextrins, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles, macro-, micro- and nanocapsules or absorbed on organic polymers and mineral supports.   - Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9   characterized in that said extract is combined with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetology and dermopharmacy: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water-soluble or liposoluble active principles, plant extracts, marine extracts, tissue extracts. 11 - Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one   any one of claims 1 to 10 characterized in that they include   from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight of extract of said alga. 12 - Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to one   any one of claims 1 to 11 characterized in that said extract is   used in any dosage form used in topical application, namely gelling and viscous polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, body oils, shampoos, soaps, sticks