FR2745183A1 - Composition containing Eupatorium ayapana extracts - Google Patents
Composition containing Eupatorium ayapana extracts Download PDFInfo
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- FR2745183A1 FR2745183A1 FR9602319A FR9602319A FR2745183A1 FR 2745183 A1 FR2745183 A1 FR 2745183A1 FR 9602319 A FR9602319 A FR 9602319A FR 9602319 A FR9602319 A FR 9602319A FR 2745183 A1 FR2745183 A1 FR 2745183A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
- A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
- A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
- A61K36/28—Asteraceae or Compositae (Aster or Sunflower family), e.g. chamomile, feverfew, yarrow or echinacea
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/70—Biological properties of the composition as a whole
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- Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
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- Alternative & Traditional Medicine (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La plante tropicale appelée Ayapana, Japana ou lapana, du nom scientifique Eupatorium ayapana est un sous-arbrisseau d'origine brésilienne de la famille des Compositae, utilisé comme plante décorative aux Indes. Alors que les populations indigènes utilisent parfois les feuilles pour préparer des infusions contre les ulcères, la diarrhée ou comme insectifuge, aucun usage topique systématique des extraits n'est décrit.The tropical plant called Ayapana, Japana or lapana, from the scientific name Eupatorium ayapana is a sub-shrub of Brazilian origin from the Compositae family, used as a decorative plant in India. While indigenous people sometimes use the leaves to prepare infusions against ulcers, diarrhea or as an insect repellent, no systematic topical use of the extracts is described.
L'objet du présent brevet est la découverte que certains extraits obtenus à partir de cette plante, surtout de la partie aérienne, possèdent des activités biochimiques utiles pour l'application cosmétique et dermopharmaceutique à savoir, le pouvoir de stimuler la respiration mitochondriale, de stimuler la prolifération cellulaire en culture, d'inhiber l'action délétère des radicaux libres et surtout de stimuler la réparation de l'ADN cellulaire après l'irradiation solaire.The object of this patent is the discovery that certain extracts obtained from this plant, especially from the aerial part, have biochemical activities useful for cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical application, namely, the power to stimulate mitochondrial respiration, to stimulate cell proliferation in culture, to inhibit the deleterious action of free radicals and above all to stimulate the repair of cellular DNA after solar irradiation.
L'avantage des extraits de cette plante réside dans un ratio favorable d'activité biologique sur matière sèche (et couleur associée), ce qui est souvent problématique en phytothérapie cosmétique. Les extraits sont stables, sans forte odeur et facilement utilisés dans tout type de produit cosmétique.The advantage of the extracts of this plant lies in a favorable ratio of biological activity on dry matter (and associated color), which is often problematic in cosmetic phytotherapy. The extracts are stable, without strong odor and easily used in any type of cosmetic product.
Des extraits d'autres espèces de Compositae sont décrits dans la littérature et dans certains brevets Eupatorium cannabinum, Eupatorium sachalinense, Eupatorium perfolatum etc... Dans ces extraits on ne décrit pas les activités cosmétiques que nous avons trouvées dans Ayapana.Extracts of other Compositae species are described in the literature and in certain patents Eupatorium cannabinum, Eupatorium sachalinense, Eupatorium perfolatum etc ... In these extracts we do not describe the cosmetic activities that we found in Ayapana.
Les solvants d'extraction pour la préparation des extraits objets du présent brevet peuvent être choisis parmi l'eau, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine, les polyéthylènes glycols, les éthers méthyliques ou éthyliques des diglycols, les polyols cycliques, les diglycols éthoxylés ou propoxylés ou tout mélange de ces solvants. The extraction solvents for the preparation of the extracts which are the subject of this patent can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols or any mixture of these solvents.
A titre d'exemple nous décrivons une méthode de fabrication de l'extrait 100 g de feuilles finement broyées sont ajoutés à 1000 ml d'un mélange eau/butylène glycol 50/50 (p/p). On chauffe sous agitation à 80"C pendant 2 heures. Après séparation par décantation et différentes étapes de filtration, on décolore le filtrat sur charbon actif et sur terre de diatomées.As an example, we describe a method of manufacturing the extract. 100 g of finely ground leaves are added to 1000 ml of a water / butylene glycol 50/50 (w / w) mixture. The mixture is heated with stirring at 80 ° C. for 2 hours. After separation by decantation and various stages of filtration, the filtrate is discolored on active carbon and on diatomaceous earth.
Cet exemple de fabrication de l'extrait n'est pas limitatif.This example of manufacture of the extract is not limiting.
Les améliorations, optimisations et modifications du procédé envisageables sont évidentes pour l'homme de l'art. A la place de la macération simple, on peut employer des techniques à contre courant, la décoction, la lixiviation,
I'extraction à l'aide d'ultrasons, de micro-ondes associée ou non aux solvants.The conceivable improvements, optimizations and modifications of the process are obvious to those skilled in the art. Instead of simple maceration, we can use countercurrent techniques, decoction, leaching,
Extraction using ultrasound, microwaves, whether or not combined with solvents.
Pour certaines applications cosmétiques il peut s'avérer utile de préparer un extrait sec à partir de l'extrait liquide. Ceci peut être réalisé par les techniques classiques de séchage, d'évaporation, d'atomisation ou de lyophilisation.For certain cosmetic applications it may prove useful to prepare a dry extract from the liquid extract. This can be achieved by conventional drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization techniques.
L'activité biochimique la plus intéressante des extraits d'Ayapana est le pouvoir stimulateur de la réparation des dommages causés par l'irradiation
UV. Les cellules possèdent la capacité de réparer les dégradations de l'ADN induites par le rayonnement solaire, pour éviter que des mutations dangereuses ne se propagent.The most interesting biochemical activity of Ayapana extracts is the stimulating power to repair the damage caused by radiation.
UV. Cells have the ability to repair DNA damage caused by solar radiation, to prevent dangerous mutations from spreading.
Favoriser les bons mécanismes de réparation et inhiber les mutations sont des activités d'un intérêt croissant pour le développement de produits de protection solaire cosmétique et dermopharmaceutique.Fostering good repair mechanisms and inhibiting mutations are activities of growing interest for the development of cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical sun protection products.
Un exemple d'une étude in vitro illustre cet effet 20 ml d'une suspension (109 cellules/ml) tamponnée d'E. coli auxotrophe pour le tryptophane car possédant une mutation ochre sur le gène trpEsont exposés sous agitation constante à une irradiation UVB. An example of an in vitro study illustrates this effect 20 ml of a suspension (109 cells / ml) buffered with E. coli auxotrophic for tryptophan because having an ocher mutation on the trpE gene are exposed with constant agitation to UVB irradiation.
La mutation reverse UVB induite tryptophane (+) (prototrophie pour le tryptophane) est suivie en mélangeant les cellules irradiées à 3 ml de gélose molle appauvrie en tryptophane (0.05M) contenant l'extrait d'Eupatorium ayapana. En parallèle, le taux de survivants est évalué en mélangeant les cellules irradiées à 3 ml de gélose molle riche en tryptophane (0.25M). La gélose molle est ensuite répartie sur une gélose de fond dure à base de milieu Vogel Bonner.The reverse UVB induced mutation tryptophan (+) (prototrophy for tryptophan) is followed by mixing the irradiated cells with 3 ml of soft agar depleted in tryptophan (0.05M) containing the extract of Eupatorium ayapana. In parallel, the rate of survivors is evaluated by mixing the irradiated cells with 3 ml of soft agar rich in tryptophan (0.25M). The soft agar is then distributed on a hard bottom agar based on Vogel Bonner medium.
Des témoins - cellules non irradiées - avec et sans extrait d'Eupatorium ayapana sont réalisés de la même façon en parallèle.Controls - non-irradiated cells - with and without extract of Eupatorium ayapana are carried out in the same way in parallel.
Les cellules sont incubées pendant 72h (survivants et mutants) à 37"C avant comptage.The cells are incubated for 72 h (survivors and mutants) at 37 "C before counting.
L'effet anti-mutagène est observé quand en présence de l'extrait le nombre de mutants UVB-induits est inférieur à celui observé pour le témoin irradié sans produit et pour un même nombre de cellules survivantes.The anti-mutagenic effect is observed when, in the presence of the extract, the number of UVB-induced mutants is lower than that observed for the irradiated control without product and for the same number of surviving cells.
La diminution constatée avec l'extrait d'Eupatorium ayapana dépend de la dose : à 1% incorporé dans la gélose molle, L'extrait inhibe la mutagénèse de 36%, à 5% on obtient 67% d'inhibition.The decrease observed with the extract of Eupatorium ayapana depends on the dose: at 1% incorporated in soft agar, the extract inhibits mutagenesis by 36%, at 5% we obtain 67% inhibition.
Les extraits ainsi obtenus peuvent être employés dans tout type de produits cosmétiques et dermopharmaceutiques. De telles compositions présentent des activités réparatrices et anti-vieillissement, elles favorisent ou régulent le renouvellement cellulaire cutané, protègent contre la chute des cheveux et possèdent des activités anti-inflammatoires et anti-radicalaires.The extracts thus obtained can be used in any type of cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical product. Such compositions have reparative and anti-aging activities, they promote or regulate skin cell renewal, protect against hair loss and have anti-inflammatory and anti-radical activities.
Leur utilisation principale est la cosmétique de protection solaire et aprèssolaire, mais aussi le traitement anti-âge et antiride. En outre, les effets toniques de l'extrait contribuent à une restructuration de l'épiderme, améliorent l'aspect de la peau, diminuent la microcirculation capillaire (couperose), donnent élasticité et fermeté à la peau fatiguée.Their main use is cosmetic sun protection and after-sun, but also anti-aging and anti-wrinkle treatment. In addition, the tonic effects of the extract contribute to a restructuring of the epidermis, improve the appearance of the skin, decrease capillary microcirculation (rosacea), give elasticity and firmness to tired skin.
Les extraits d'Eupatorium ayapana objets du brevet peuvent trouver application également dans les traitements du cuir chevelu (anti-pelliculaire, anti-chute des cheveux) ou de la peau acnéique. The extracts of Eupatorium ayapana which are the subject of the patent can also find application in the treatment of the scalp (anti-dandruff, anti-hair loss) or of acneic skin.
Les extraits d'Eupatorium ayapana objet du présent brevet peuvent être utilisés dans toute forme galénique employée en cosmétique : émulsions
H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, gels, pommades, huiles corporelles, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays, sans que cette liste soit limitative.The extracts of Eupatorium ayapana subject of this patent can be used in any galenical form used in cosmetics: emulsions
O / W and W / O, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, body oils, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, without this list being exhaustive.
II est possible d'incorporer les extraits d'Eupatorium ayapana décrit dans des vecteurs cosmétiques comme les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro- et nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules, de les absorber sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux. It is possible to incorporate the extracts of Eupatorium ayapana described in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, to absorb them on organic polymers powdery, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.
La concentration d'utilisation de ces extraits d'Eupatorium ayapana peut varier entre 0.1 et 30% (p/p), préférentiellement entre 0.5 et 10% de poids de la composition totale.The concentration of use of these extracts of Eupatorium ayapana can vary between 0.1 and 30% (w / w), preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight of the total composition.
Les extraits d'Eupatorium ayapana peuvent être combinés dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique : lipides d'extraction et/ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits d'autres plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins. The extracts of Eupatorium ayapana can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or fat-soluble active ingredients, extracts of other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
Claims (10)
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR9602319A FR2745183B1 (en) | 1996-02-22 | 1996-02-22 | COSMETIC OR DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING AN EPUATORIUM AYAPANA EXTRACT |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9602319A FR2745183B1 (en) | 1996-02-22 | 1996-02-22 | COSMETIC OR DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING AN EPUATORIUM AYAPANA EXTRACT |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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FR2745183A1 true FR2745183A1 (en) | 1997-08-29 |
FR2745183B1 FR2745183B1 (en) | 1998-04-24 |
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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FR9602319A Expired - Fee Related FR2745183B1 (en) | 1996-02-22 | 1996-02-22 | COSMETIC OR DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING AN EPUATORIUM AYAPANA EXTRACT |
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FR (1) | FR2745183B1 (en) |
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2000071092A1 (en) * | 1999-05-21 | 2000-11-30 | Lg Household & Health Care Ltd. | Skin whitener |
FR2811224A1 (en) * | 2000-07-05 | 2002-01-11 | Clarins Laboratoires S A S | Cosmetic composition for care of sensitive skin includes oleanolic acid or vegetable extract rich in oleanolic acid, and at least one other vegetable extract chosen from shea-butter flower and Solanum lycocarpum |
EP1967233B1 (en) * | 2007-01-30 | 2015-08-19 | Kao Corporation | Aqueous external preparation for the treatment of scalp |
Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US4880627A (en) * | 1985-11-07 | 1989-11-14 | Tecma Laboratories | Skin therapeutic mixture containing eupatorium extract and formulations |
CN1079392A (en) * | 1992-06-03 | 1993-12-15 | 山东省立医院 | Method for preparing yulelu emulsion |
-
1996
- 1996-02-22 FR FR9602319A patent/FR2745183B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US4880627A (en) * | 1985-11-07 | 1989-11-14 | Tecma Laboratories | Skin therapeutic mixture containing eupatorium extract and formulations |
CN1079392A (en) * | 1992-06-03 | 1993-12-15 | 山东省立医院 | Method for preparing yulelu emulsion |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
Title |
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DATABASE WPI Week 9513, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 95-091403, XP002014176 * |
ONIONS: "a taste of the orient", SOAP, PERFUMERY & COSMETICS, vol. 65, no. 2, February 1992 (1992-02-01), LONDON, pages 69 - 74, XP002014175 * |
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2000071092A1 (en) * | 1999-05-21 | 2000-11-30 | Lg Household & Health Care Ltd. | Skin whitener |
FR2811224A1 (en) * | 2000-07-05 | 2002-01-11 | Clarins Laboratoires S A S | Cosmetic composition for care of sensitive skin includes oleanolic acid or vegetable extract rich in oleanolic acid, and at least one other vegetable extract chosen from shea-butter flower and Solanum lycocarpum |
EP1967233B1 (en) * | 2007-01-30 | 2015-08-19 | Kao Corporation | Aqueous external preparation for the treatment of scalp |
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Publication number | Publication date |
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FR2745183B1 (en) | 1998-04-24 |
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