FR2811224A1 - Cosmetic composition for care of sensitive skin includes oleanolic acid or vegetable extract rich in oleanolic acid, and at least one other vegetable extract chosen from shea-butter flower and Solanum lycocarpum - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for care of sensitive skin, containing oleanolic acid or vegetable extract rich in oleanolic acid, and at least one other vegetable extract chosen from shea-butter flower and Solanum lycocarpum, is new. An Independent claim is also included for the use of composition as claimed for treatment of skin lesions caused by sunlight.

Description

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  COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN CARE

SENSITIVE.

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of sensitive skin and more particularly for the care of skin sensitive to the sun. The invention is particularly interested in so-called "reactive" sensitive skin which is encountered in particular in children but also more generally in certain individuals, who have

  including increased sensitivity to the sun.

  In 1994, 55% of Europeans said they had sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is an authentic syndrome corresponding to clinical reality and characterized by neurosensitive signs such as

  warming, itching or tingling.

  Sensitive skin is more reactive towards

  live the sun. In fact, 60% of women who feel they have sensitive skin may also have reactions to

  various environmental factors including the sun.

  The effects on the skin of ultraviolet (UV) rays are due for 80% to UVB, for 12% to UVA 2 and for 6% to UVA 1. UV can cause skin dryness, erythema and inflammation of the skin during a stroke. sun, awareness, allergy, aging, skin cancer and immunosuppression. These rays are capable of inducing direct damage to the collagen and elastin of the skin. UVB notably leads to an accelerated destruction of collagen. Under the effect of UVB, the synthesis of elastin is modified which causes the loss of its mechanical properties. Thus, abnormal and ineffective elastic fibers accumulate in the dermis, this well-known phenomenon is called "solar elastosis". Alterations in cells and macromolecules appear mainly due to stress

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  oxidative generated by the increase in free radicals derived from oxygen under the effect of UV. These free radicals can attack all macromolecules and in particular collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, DNA and membrane lipids, thus causing a loss of the integrity of cell membranes. UVB also causes a decrease in Langerhans cells which are cutaneous immune cells which help the skin to

defend against UV attack.

  Children's skin is more vulnerable due to its immaturity vis-à-vis the sun. In addition, due to their outdoor lifestyle, a child receives 3 times more UVB per year than an adult. It can be estimated that almost half of the UV exposure accumulated during life is delivered before 20 years, 30 to 50% of the sun's capital would then be already used. There is therefore a real interest in offering products adapted to this type of skin and therefore

  particularly suitable for skin sensitive to the sun.

  This object is achieved according to the invention thanks to a cosmetic composition for the care of sensitive skin, characterized in that it comprises oleanolic acid or a plant extract rich in oleanolic acid and at least one of the plant extracts chosen. among: - an extract of Solanum lycocarpum,

- an extract of shea flower.

  The invention is particularly interested in oleanolic acid for its capacity to reduce the quantity of collagenase, enzyme responsible for the degradation of collagen, and of modified elastin produced following

  UV exposure. This acid is also an anti-active

  inflammatory and inhibitor of the release of histamine and, thereby, prevents allergy phenomena (Liu,

  1995, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol. 49, pages 57-68).

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  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a plant extract rich in oleanolic acid. Many plants contain oleanolic acid, such as the olive tree. Plant extracts containing oleanolic acid, advantageously rich in it, can be prepared from plants by conventional extraction and purification techniques as described in the experimental part below. In a preferred embodiment of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, a plant extract rich in oleanolic acid comes from olive leaves titrating at 50% in oleanolic acid

  possibly mixed with olive oil.

  In addition to oleanolic acid or a plant extract rich in oleanolic acid, the composition of the invention can also comprise an extract of Solanum lycocarpum. Solanum lycocarpum is a Brazilian plant also called Fruta de Lobo, or Lobeira. The peoples of Brazil (Amazon rainforest) use this plant for its calming and anti-inflammatory actions. An anti-free radical activity test made it possible to verify that the extract of Solanum lycocarpum does indeed exhibit these two properties. French patent No. 2,745,182 describes an example of an extract

  of Solanum lycocarpum and its preparation.

  The composition of the invention can also comprise an extract of shea flower. It is an extract containing triglycerides, free fatty acids and the unsaponifiable fraction of which more particularly terpene alcohols and phytosterols are skin softening factors. The hydration capacity of this shea flower extract was demonstrated in vivo on 9 female volunteers aged 20 to 44 years. extract

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  of shea flower has an immediate hydrating power of almost 40%. Observation by electron microscopy of cyanoacrylate epidermal samples from volunteers treated with shea flower extract highlights a smoother external surface and more

  consistent with each other, signs of skin softening.

  The compositions according to the invention can also comprise a product called Ayapana composed of 3 active constituents which are: - an extract of the tropical plant Eupatorium ayapana originating in India which contains in particular terpene alcohols, terpenes and coumarin, - a extract from the Vanilla planifolia plant which, combined with the extract of Eupatorium ayapana, provides a DNA protection effect, and - an extract from the walls of Corynebacterium granulosum; Corynebacterium granulosum bacteria are coryneform bacteria which are part of the saprophytic microorganisms found on healthy skin and which occupy the ground prevent harmful germs from colonizing the skin. They can also exercise an indirect defensive role, their suitably prepared walls having immunomodulatory and immunoprotective activities and can thus provide protection

Langerhans cells.

  The effect of ayapana has been studied in vitro on

  cell cultures and ex vivo on reconstituted skin.

  These studies have shown that the addition of ayapana provides specific protection for cellular DNA,

  Langerhans cells immunocompetent with UV rays.

  A preferred example of composition according to the invention contains: - 0.1 to 5% by weight of oleanolic acid or a plant extract rich in oleanolic acid, - 0.1 to 5% by weight of an extract Solanum lycocarpum, from 0.1 to 5% by weight of a shea flower extract,

- 0.1 to 5% by weight of ayapana.

  The compositions according to the invention can be used for the care of sensitive skin and more particularly for the care of skin sensitive to the sun. To this end, the compositions according to the invention can also comprise a filtering system which can be chosen from the following different filters: - all inorganic pigments, such as titanium oxides and zinc oxides, - butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane , - octyl methoxycinnamate, - octyl salicylate, octocrylene, - benzophenone-3, - 2-phenyl benzimidazole-Osulphonic acid, - homomenthyl salicylate, - 3- (4-methyl benzylidene ) camphor,

- octyl triazone.

  Finally, the compositions of the invention can comprise one or more formulating agents, such as antioxidants, surfactants, preservatives, oils, glycols, perfumes etc. The compositions of the invention may be in any form known to a person skilled in the art in the field of cosmetics, such as, for example, a cream, a milk, a lotion, a gel, a mask, without any

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  special dosage restriction other than those for

application to the skin.

  In view of the water-soluble nature of the fruta de lobo and ayapana extract, and of the liposoluble nature of the shea flower extract and of the extract rich in oleanolic acid, a presentation in the form of an emulsion is preferred such that '' cream or milk or

a gel.

  The compositions according to the invention are remarkable in that they are useful for the care, more particularly the prevention, of lesions caused by

  the sun's rays on the skin.

  Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear on reading the examples which follow concerning the preparation of cosmetic compositions for the care of sensitive skin and more particularly of skin sensitive to the sun which are given by way of illustration and cannot be interpreted.

  as limiting the scope of the invention.

  Example 1: Preparation of the extracts present

  in the cosmetic compositions of the invention.

  1) Process for preparing an extract rich in

oleanolic acid.

  After grinding the olive leaves,

  extraction is carried out cold in 96% alcohol.

  The extract is filtered and then evaporated before being taken up in large volumes of water for 2 to 4 hot washes. The filtered product is taken up hot in 96% alcohol. Purification is carried out by fixing the impurities on activated carbon followed by filtration and then evaporation. The powder thus obtained is resuspended hot in an olive oil / polysorbate 80 mixture. The finished product consists of: 10% of olive leaf extract titrating 50% in oleanic acid,% of olive oil ,

- 10% of polysorbate 80.

  2) Process for preparing an extract of

Solanum lycocarpum.

  kg of Solanum lycocarpum fruit (dry matter) are crushed and then macerated with 10 kg of water, 70 kg of glucerine and 20 kg of butylene glycol. After filtration, 100 kg of Solanum extract are recovered

  lycocarpum also called Fruta de Lobo extract.

  3) Process for preparing a flower extract

shea butter.

  Ten kg of Butyrospermum parkii flower (dry matter) are crushed and then macerated with 100 kg of water. The product is preserved then filtered and is recovered kg of an extract of shea flower also called Mangiflore. 4) Process for preparing an extract

of Eupatorium Ayapana.

  kg of the aerial part of Eupatorium Ayapana (dry matter) are ground and then macerated with 58 kg of water and 42 kg of glycerin. The product is preserved then filtered and thus is recovered 100 kg of an extract

of Eupatorium Ayapana.

  ) Process for the preparation of an extract of

  walls of Corynebacterium granulosum.

  Corynebacterium granulosum bacteria are grown on their optimal growth medium to lead to an exponential multiplication of the number of

germs in the middle.

  All of the germs in the fermentation must are then inactivated by heat, then harvested by tangential microfiltration. Mechanical treatment under high pressure makes it possible to fragment the cells and their walls to increase their immunostimulating power. This biomass thus treated is taken up

in a suitable excipient.

  Example 2 Cosmetic Compositions for the

  care of skin sensitive to the sun in the form of a gel.

OCTYLMETHOXYCINNAMATE 7,000

BENZOPHENONE-3 5,000

  BUTYL METHOXY DIBENZOYL METHANE 2,000

  3- (4 METHYL - BENZYLIDENE) CAMPHOR 4,000

SUNACTYL 1,000

SESAME OIL 1,000

ANTI OXIDANTS 0.500

LOBO 1,000 FRUTA EXTRACT

SHEAR FLOWER EXTRACT 1,000

OLEANOLINE 1,000

AYAPANA 1,000

POLYOLS 4,000

SEQUESTRANT AGENT 0.100

CONSERVATIVES 1,000

VISCOSING POLYMER 0.500

TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.500

ALOES 4,000 EXTRACT

ROSE WATER 5,000

PERFUME 0.500

  PURIFIED WATER qs 100,000 Example 3: Cosmetic compositions for

  care of skin sensitive to the sun in the form of a cream.

OCTYMETHOXYCINNAMATE 7,000

OCTYL SALICYLATE 5,000

  PHENYL BENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID 3,000

TITANIUM OXIDE 7,000

ZINC OXIDE 3,000

LOBO 1,000 FRUTA EXTRACT

SHEAR FLOWER EXTRACT 1,000

OLEANOLINE 1,000

AYAPANA 1,000

SYNACTYL 1,000

2,500 EMULSIONANTS

ESTER OF FATTY ACID 4,000

OZOKERITE 1,000

POLYOL 3,000

SILICONE OILS 8,000

MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.500

SEQUESTRANT AGENT 0.100

ANTI OXIDANTS 0.500

CONSERVATIVES 1,000

TRIETHANOLAMINE 2,000

STARCH 2,000

PERFUME 0.500

PURIFIED WATER qs 100,000

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Claims (7)

  1) Cosmetic composition for the care of sensitive skin, characterized in that it comprises oleanolic acid or a plant extract rich in oleanolic acid and at least one of the plant extracts chosen from: - an extract of Solanum lycocarpum, - an extract of shea flower.   2) Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the plant extract rich in oleanolic acid comes from olive leaves titrating to 50% in oleanolic acid optionally mixed with olive oil.   3) Cosmetic composition according to one of   Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises also ayapana.   4) Cosmetic composition according to one   any of the preceding claims, characterized in   what it includes: - 0.1 to 5% by weight of oleanolic acid or a plant extract rich in oleanolic acid, - 0.1 to 5% by weight of an extract of Solanum lycocarpum, - 0.1 to 5% by weight of a shea flower extract, - 0.1 to 5% by weight of ayapana.   ) Cosmetic composition according to one   any of the preceding claims characterized in   which it also includes a filtering system.   l1 6) Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the filtering system is chosen from the following filters: - inorganic pigments, such as titanium oxides and zinc oxides, - butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane, - l 'octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, - octocrylene, - benzophenone-3, - 2phenyl benzimidazole-O-sulphonic acid, - homomenthyl salicylate, - 3- (4-methyl benzylidene) camphor, - octyl triazone.   7) Cosmetic composition according to one   any of the preceding claims, characterized in   what it includes one or more formulating agents, such as antioxidants, surfactants,   preservatives, oils, glycols and fragrances.   8) Cosmetic composition according to one   any of the preceding claims, characterized in   what it comes in the form of an emulsion such than a cream, milk or gel.   9) Use of a composition according to one   any of the preceding claims for the care of   damage caused by the sun's rays on the skin.