FR2735981A1 - COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING A PLANT EXTRACT OF GENUS FOETIDIA - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic or pharmaceutical and particularly dermatological composition including, as the active ingredient, an extract of plants of genus Foetidia, and particularly of species Foetidia africana, preferably in an amount of 0.0001-3 wt % based on the total weight of the final composition. Said composition has the property of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans in the skin, both in the dermis and in the epidermis, and may be used for skin and hair care, in particular given its moisturising activity. Said extracts may also be used for stimulating glycosaminoglycan synthesis in cell culture media, particularly keratinocyte and fibroblast culture media.

Description

 The invention essentially relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, especially a dermatological composition, comprising as active ingredient an extract of plants of the genus Foetidia, in particular of the species Foetidia africana.

The invention also relates to a use of such an extract for the manufacture of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological composition having various activities and a method of cosmetic treatment.

 Plants of the genus Foctidia, family Lecythidaceae, are generally found in Madagascar and other islands of the Indian Ocean. There are also a few species on the African continent.

Fetidia species described in various publications include:
-Foetidia africana, present in Tanzania (B. Verdcourt, Kew Bulletin, 1985, 40 (3) 635-636),
-Fetidia mauritania (JC Chapuis et al., Ethnopharmacol 1988, 23 273-284),
-Foetidia rodriguesiana, present in the Mascaren Islands of the Ocean
Indian (F. Friedmann, Adansonia, 1981, 20 (4) 439-50),
-Foetidia dracaenoides, Foctidia parviflora, Fetidia delphinensis,
Fetidia cuneata, Foetidia pterocarpa, Foctidia copuronii, Foctidia rubescens,
Fetidia vohernarensis, Foctidia sambiranensis, Foetidia macrocarpa, all present in Madagascar (J. Bosser, Nat.Natural Mass Bull, B. Adansonia Sect.
Bot. Phytochim, 1988 105-120).

 In the context of the present invention, it has unexpectedly been found that extracts of the plant of the genus Foctidia have a valuable interest in cosmetics, in pharmacy, especially in dermatology, by the property of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, in particular dermal fibroblasts, in particular of the human dermis, and human keratinocytes.

However, those skilled in the art know that proteoglycans, consisting in part of glycosaminoglycans, are complex macromolecules formed of a protein portion on which are covalently bonded disaccharide polymers called glycosaminoglycans (GAG). This is in particular described in the ED HAY book entitled "Cell Biology of Extracellular
Matrix ", published by Plenum Press, New York in 1991 and in the publication of JE

SILBERT, entitled "Structure and Metabolism of Proteoglycans and
Glycosaminoglycans ", published in J. Invest Dermatol., 1982, 79, pages 31s-37s.

 It is also known that the disaccharide unit of GAGs is formed of a hexosamine (D-glucosamine or D-galactosamine) which is often sulphated with a uronic acid (D-glucuronic or L-iduronic acid). The most frequently encountered GAG chains in the skin are hyaluronic acid, chondroitin-4 and -6-sulphate, dermatan sulphate and, in small quantities, heparin and heparan sulphate. Only hyaluronic acid is not synthesized in combination with a central protein.

 Proteoglycans are present in particular in all mammalian tissues, including in the skin and its appendages (J. R. COUCHMAN, J. Invest.

Dermatol. 1993 Jul. 101 (1 Suppl) 60S-64S). It is now accepted that proteoglycans contribute, through different processes, to the growth, preservation and repair of tissues. Some proteoglycans have been shown to mediate cell adhesion and transmembrane communication, while others interact with other structural elements of the extracellular matrix. As mentioned above, proteoglycans consist of a core protein to which one or more glycosaminoglycan chains are covalently bound. Thus, glycosaminoglycans are present at the dermal level, participating in the composition of the extracellular matrix and have been found related to certain sites of collagen fibrils, as described by J. E.

 SCOUT in Int. J. Biol. Macromol., 1991, 13, pp. 157-161. They have also been identified between the keratinocytes at the level of the epidermis as described by J.

G. HAGGERTY et al. in J. Invest magazine. Dermatol., 1992, 99, pages 374380, 99 pages 374-380. Finally, glycosaminoglycans were found in the extracellular matrix of the dermal papilla of the hair follicle. Their quantity varies according to the hair cycle. It reaches a maximum during the anagen phase corresponding to the growth of the hair. With regard to the proteoglycans and glcosaminoglycancs of the hair follicles, reference may be made in particular to the publication by JR COUCHMAN cited above, and that of M. TAYLOR et al., "Glycosaminoglycan synthesis by cultured human hair follicle dermal papilla. cells: comparison with non-follicular dermal fibroblasts ",
Brit. J. Dermatol. 1992 (May) 126 (5) 479-8. It will be appreciated that minoxidil, a well-known substance having some activity on growth and regrowth of the hair, has been shown to stimulate the biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans (Y. MORI et al. al., Ann NY Sci., 1991 (Dec. 26) 642 473-5). The observations of the authors previously cited, combined with other clinical evidence, suggest that glycosaminoglycans participate in the regulation of hair growth.

 GAGs, by their primary property of strongly associating with molecules of water and forming gels, ensure the hydration of the dermis and the epidermis. A well-hydrated skin guarantees a good appearance, a satisfactory physiological and functional state, in particular with good mechanical properties. The reduction of GAG during cutaneous aging has been shown by many authors (as for example: SMITH et al in J.

Invest. Dermatol., 1962, 39, pages 347-350; or FLEISCHMAJER et al. in
Biochim Biophys. Acta, 1972, 279, pp. 265-275; or by LONGAS et al.

in Carbohydr. Res., 1987, 159, pp. 127-136).

 It is therefore advantageous to stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans in order, in particular, to render a skin with a deficiency in its mechanical properties or its water barrier, such as dehydrated or aged skin, the qualities and properties of a skin. normal or young, or to prevent or treat disorders of hair growth, or restore or enhance the shine and flexibility of a hair.

 Thus, the main object of the present invention is to solve the new technical problem consisting in the provision of a solution for stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans by cutaneous cells, in particular human cutaneous cells, such as fibroblasts or keratinocytes. which is particularly valuable in the context of the manufacture of cosmetics or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological treatment products.

 The present invention also aims to solve the new technical problem consisting in the provision of a solution for achieving good hydration of skin tissue including skin and mucous membranes, an improvement in the mechanical properties of the skin and integuments, a beautifying the hair, as well as preventing or treating disorders of hair growth, in a simple, reliable and inexpensive way, usable on the industrial cosmetic and pharmaceutical scale.

 These new technical problems are solved for the first time simultaneously by the present invention.

 Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises as an active ingredient an extract of plants of the genus Foetidia, in particular of the species Foctidia africana.

 According to an advantageous embodiment, this composition comprises from 0.0001% to 3% by weight, and in particular from 0.001% to 1% by weight, of the aforesaid Fetidia extract relative to the total weight of the final composition.

 According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition is formulated for topical application, in particular a cutaneous topical application including the skin and the mucous membranes, for producing cosmetic or dermatological care products or makeup products treating, such as mascaras or lipsticks.

 According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, this composition is characterized in that it comprises, in addition, at least one active ingredient, in particular chosen from the group consisting of retinoids, humectants or moisturizers, vitamins ceramides, substances promoting the synthesis of collagen and amino acids.

 According to this particular embodiment, the composition is advantageously characterized in that the said retinoid is selected from retinoic acid and its salts and esters, retinaldehyde, and retinol and its esters, such as propionate, palmitate, acetate; the humectant or moisturizing agent mentioned above is chosen from glycerol, a polyethylene glycol and hyaluronic acid; the above-mentioned vitamin is chosen from vitamin A, vitamin C and its derivatives, in particular its sodium or magnesium salts, vitamin E, vitamin PP, and vitamins of group B, in particular B6 and B12; the substance promoting the synthesis of collagen is chosen from an extract of centella asiatica, madecassoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid and asiaticoside; ; and the amino acid is selected from serine, threonine, leucine, proline and hydroxyproline.

 According to another advantageous variant of the invention, being more particularly in the context of the care or treatment of the hair, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, especially dermatological composition according to the invention, furthermore comprises at least one other active substance, in one effective concentration selected from quinine or its derivatives; a rubefiant such as methyl nicotinate; a papilla fibroblast culture supernatant, as described in EP-A-272,920; a keratin hydrolyzate; a trace element such as zinc, selenium, copper; a bisbenzylisoquinoline alkaloid such as oxyacanthine or cepharanthine; a 5- reductase inhibitor such as progesterone; cyproterone acetate, minoxidil, azelaic acid and its derivatives; 4-methyl-4-azasteroid, especially 17-B-N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza-5-a-androstan-3-one; or an extract of Serenoa repens.

 According to yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the aforementioned extract of Foetidia, in particular Foctidia africana, is a trunk bark extract.

 According to yet another advantageous embodiment, the aforementioned extract of Foctidia is an extract obtained by extraction with a polar solvent, or a mixture of polar solvents. Preferably, an alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol or a mixture of these alcohols or a hydroalcoholic mixture will be used.

 In this context, the conventional extraction procedures well known to those skilled in the art can be used. In particular, the extraction can be carried out on the ground material, preferably a trunk bark powder obtained by grinding, which is introduced into the extraction solvent, preferably consisting of the solvent or the mixture of solvents. aforementioned polials. The extraction may be repeated several times until the material is exhausted, in accordance with methods well known to those skilled in the art. The extraction can be carried out at room temperature, or at a temperature of between 10 ° C. and 10 ° C. The proportion by weight between the solvent and the material to be extracted can vary within wide limits and for example be between 1: 1 and 10. 1.

 According to yet another advantageous embodiment, the aforementioned extract of Foetidia is an extract enriched with saponins.

 The enrichment of the extract with saponins can be obtained by means of any method known to those skilled in the art, in particular by precipitation of the extract with acetone in an alcoholic medium, preferably in a methanol medium. .

 According to a second aspect, the invention also relates to the use of an extract of plants of the genus Foctidia, in particular of the species Fetidia africana, said extract preferably being incorporated in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, for the preparation of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological composition, in particular having an activity for stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans in the skin and the mucous membranes, in particular in the dermis and in the epidermis, promoting the retention of water in the skin, having a moisturizing activity, a tensor effect attenuating the cutaneous relief and the superficial wrinkles, contributing to reinforcing the barrier function of the skin, intended in particular for the prevention or treatment of dry or dehydrated skin, the treatment of the effects of skin aging, prevention and control of the appearance of stretch marks, the improvement of n from the appearance of the skin and hair, to the prevention and treatment of hair growth disorders.

Various embodiments in the context of this use clearly result from the foregoing description which has been made with regard to the composition, as well as from the following description and in particular in connection with the examples.
According to a third aspect, the present invention also covers a process for cosmetic treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, such as the lips, or superficial body growths, in particular hair, characterized in that it comprises the topical application to the areas of the skin, mucous membranes or scalp to be treated, of a composition containing an extract of plants of the genus Foetidia, in particular of the species Foctidia africana, present in said composition at a cosmetically effective concentration
Various embodiments of this method also clearly result from the foregoing description, as well as the following description, particularly in relation to the examples. In particular, the concentration of the plant extract of the genus Foctidia in the abovementioned composition is between 0.0001% and 3% by weight, in particular between 0.001% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, said extract preferably being incorporated into a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

 Finally, according to a fourth aspect, the present invention also covers a method of therapeutic treatment of the skin, mucous membranes or superficial body growths, in particular hair, characterized in that it comprises the topical application to the areas of the skin, mucosa or scalp to be treated with a therapeutically effective amount of an extract of plants of the genus Foetidia, in particular of the species Foctidia africana.

 Various embodiments of this method of therapeutic treatment are clearly apparent to one skilled in the art, also from the foregoing description as well as from the following description and in particular with reference to the examples. As part of the therapeutic treatment, the practitioner generally knows how to adapt the dose to be applied depending on the condition to be treated. However, in general, 0.0001% and 3% by weight, in particular between 0.001% and 1% by weight, of the above-mentioned Foctidia extract included in a pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, will be applied, thus forming a pharmaceutical composition, said percentage by weight of said extract being given relative to the total weight of the final composition.

 As indicated above, the invention is based on the unexpected discovery that a plant extract of the genus Foetidia stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans by skin cells, in particular by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, thus being particularly useful for the manufacture of cosmetic or pharmaceutical treatment products and especially dermatological.

 Thus, the invention also relates to the use of an extract of plants of the genus Foctidia, in particular of the species Foctidia africana, as an agent, in particular as a cosmetic agent, intended to stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, in particular particularly fibroblasts of the dermis, in particular of the human dermis and human keratinocytes.

 This same agent will also be used as a therapeutic agent, especially in dermatology.

 In this context, the person skilled in the art readily understands that various forms of formulation can be cut. In addition, it is apparent that one of the most used forms is a topical form suitable for application to cutaneous tissue including skin and external or internal mucosa. Suitable topical formulations include, but are not limited to, emulsions, creams, milks, balms, gels, lotions, ova, as well as treating makeup compositions such as mascaras, lipsticks, these various types of formulation being well known to those skilled in the art.

 Other aims, features and advantages of the invention appear clearly to those skilled in the art, also from the explanatory description which follows, made with reference to several exemplary embodiments given merely by way of illustration, and therefore can not in any way limit the scope of the invention. In the examples percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1
Preparation of a trunk bark extract from Foctidia africana (extract I1 !.

From the trunk bark of the plant Fetidia africana from
Tanzania, after drying, a powder is produced by grinding. Take, for example, 49 g of this trunk bark powder which is macerated for 1 h 30 in 500 ml of methanol which is then boiled for 3 h. After cooling, filter. The filtrate (6.5 g) is dried, taken up in 50 ml of methanol to which 250 ml of acetone are then added. A precipitate forms which is separated by filtration.

 The precipitate is dried on a desiccant solid such as potassium hydroxide (2.3 g). 2 g of this dry precipitate are taken and dialysis is carried out for 4 days against 20 ml of water. Then lyophilize. 724 mg of a freeze-dried extract according to the invention called extract I1 is thus obtained, which constitutes an extract enriched in saponins which will be tested later.

Example 2
Preparation of a trunk bark extract of Foctidia africana (In '!.

 100 g of Foctidia africana trunk bark powder harvested from Tanzania are obtained by grinding and introduced into 1.5 liters of methanol for extraction. Refluxed for 1 h. The bark powder is used 3 times in succession with the same amounts of new solvent. Each time it is filtered and the resulting filtrates are pooled, then the mixture is concentrated on a rotary evaporator until a dry extract, called extract I2 according to the invention, is obtained.

Example 3
Demonstration of the activity of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans by human fibroblasts. with extract II of example 1.

 The test used to demonstrate an activity for stimulating the production of GAG by fibroblasts is described below. This in vitro test is, moreover, recognized as reliable and significant for those skilled in the art.

Principle of the test:
Human dermal fibroblasts are used which are incubated with tritiated glucosamine with or without the test product. Then, on the culture supernatants, the protein portion of the proteoglycans formed to isolate the GAGs (having incorporated the radiolabelled glucosamine) is precipitated by enzymatic hydrolysis by means of pronase and is precipitated by means of cetylpyridinium chloride. abbreviated CPC. The radioactivity of the precipitates of the treated and control cultures is then counted, which is proportional to the amount of GAG synthesized.

Highlighting the activity
Fibroblasts from a mammoplasty of a 34-year-old woman are prepared from the microdissected dermis, as previously described by RI FRESHNEY in the book "Culture of Animal Cells, a manual of basic technique" edited by AR LISS, New York, 1983, pages 104-106. The culture wells of a multiwell well are seeded with 10,000 fibroblasts per well and cultured for 24 hours at 37 ° C. in an E 199 C culture medium (Gibco) containing 10% fetal calf serum.

After 24 hours, the medium is removed and replaced by 100 microliters of E 199 C medium without serum and containing the product to be tested, namely, in this case, the extract I1 according to the invention solubilized in the water, or the same amount of water in the case of "control" cultures, and 4 μCi of tritiated glucosamine, commercially available under the reference TRK 398 from Amersham, France. The incubates are incubated for 48 h at 37 ° C. The supernatants are then combined by 2 and transferred to screwed Eppendorf tubes. Each tube thus contains the supernatant from the culture of an initial quantity of 20,000 cells. To each of the tubes is added 200 μl of a 0.2 mg / ml solution of pronase, commercially available from
Sigma, France, under the reference P5147, dissolved in PBS containing 0.02% sodium azide. It is allowed to act overnight at 370 ° C. The pronase is then inactivated by immersing the tubes in boiling water for 5 minutes.

 After cooling to room temperature, 40 g of an aqueous solution of a 1/1/1 mixture of hyaluronic acid, dermatan sulfate and chondroitin sulfate at 8 mg / ml are added to this solution of radiolabelled GAG, and then coprecipitated all of these glycosaminoglycans with 40 μl of a 100 mg / ml solution of CPC commercially available from Sigma, France, under the reference C 9002. After stirring, incubated for 30 minutes at room temperature.

The precipitate is centrifuged, the supernatant is aspirated and the pellet is resuspended with 400 μl of a 10 mg / ml CPC solution. The mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.

The pellet is solubilized in 500 μl of methanol, which is then transferred to scintillation vials containing 10 ml of scintillation liquid. The radioactivity of each vial is counted using a scintillation counter of the "Beta 1" type from Kontron, France.

 In parallel, the cytotoxicity of the product to be tested on the cells is evaluated by a tetrazolium salt test, abbreviated as X1T, as described by ROEHM N. W. et al. in Journal Journal of Immunological Methods, 1991, 142, pp. 257-265. This test measures cell viability.

 As mentioned above, the amount of GAG secreted by the cells in culture is proportional to the radioactivity observed. The activity results of the extract I1 according to the invention are shown in the table below. The concentrations of the extract were chosen so that they do not alter cell viability.

dans laquelle:
A: représente l'activité exprimée en pourcentage,
q0: représente la quantité de GAG radioactifs sécrétés dans les cultures
témoin, exprimée en cpm,
q : représente la quantité de GAG radioactifs sécrétés dans les cultures
traitées par l'extrait selon l'invention, exprimée en cpm.The activity of the extract, expressed as a percentage, is calculated according to the following formula

in which:
A: represents the activity expressed as a percentage,
q0: represents the amount of radioactive GAG secreted in cultures
witness, expressed in cpm,
q: represents the amount of radioactive GAG secreted in cultures
treated with the extract according to the invention, expressed in cpm.

 Finally, the radioactivity values obtained with the treated cultures are compared to those of the controls by the Student's "t" test in unpaired series, in order to conclude on the question of whether the increases in radioactivity observed, ie the increases in the synthesis. GAGs, are significant at the p = 0.05 threshold.

Table of results

<tb><SEP> QUANTITY <SEP> OF <SEP> GAG <SEP>% <SEP> SIGNIFICANCE
<tb><SEP> SECRETS <SEP> I) 'ACTIVITY <SEP>
<tb><SEP> for <SEP> 2 <SEP> x <SEP> 104 <SEP> cells
<tb><SEP> expressed <SEP> in <SEP> cpm
<tb> WITNESS <SEP> 6737 <SEP> + <SEP> 637
<tb> 1, ug / ml <SEP> (II) <SEQ> 6683 <SEP>#<SEP> 431 <SEP><SEP> -1 <SEP> NS
<tb> 2.5 <SEP> Mg / ml <SEP> (I1) <SEP> 8234 <SEP> + <SEP> 455 <SEP> + <SEP> 22 <SEP> S
<tb> 10 Hg / ml <SEP> (I1) <SEP> 16416 <SEP>#<SEP> 919 <SEP><SEP> + <SEP> 144 <SEP> S
<Tb>
S: significant NS: non-significant
The table above clearly demonstrates that the I1 extract, object of
The invention significantly stimulates the production of total GAGs by human dermal fibroblasts.

 As a result, the extracts of the invention, obtained from the plant of the genus Foetidia, constitute valuable active ingredients for the manufacture of cosmetic or pharmaceutical treatment products, especially dermatological products.

 In this context, various formulations of cosmetic, pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, products will now be given by way of illustration, without limiting character.

Example 4
Hydrating gel - Bark extract I1, Example 1 ............. ...... .... 0.5 g - Ethanol. .......... .... 5 g - Glycerol. .. ..... 4 g - Carbopol 940 # ..... . ...... 1,3 g - Water + preservatives .... .. qsp 100 g
The I1 extract is dissolved in methanol and then glycerol and part of the water are added, the remaining portion being used to form a gel with Carbopol 940 #. Then, mixing of the solution and the gel is carried out according to gel formulation techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

 This gel can be used 2 times a day for 3 weeks on the face and body. After treatment, the skin regains its normal moisture, elasticity and radiance.

Example 5
Body care cream:
This cream has the following composition - Bark extract 12 ... ... 0.1 g - Retinol palmitate .... 0.03 g - Centella asiatica extract ... ... 0.1 g - Ascorbyl phosphate (magnesium scl) ... .. 0.05 g - Glycerol. . ... 3g - Nylon particles ... .. .. ... 2 g
(Orgasol 2002 UD Nat cos available at Atochem, France) - Excipient emulsified + preservatives and perfumes .... .. qsp 100 g
The extracts of barks I2 and centella asiatica are dissolved in the excipient and then the other components are added until the mixture is homogeneous.

 This cream can be used once a day for several weeks, by topical application on the bust. After treatment, the bust regains its elasticity, firmness and radiance.

Example 6
Cream of care to prevent and fight against the appearance of stretch marks
A composition having the following ingredients is used: - Extract I1. ........... .... 1 g - Hamamelis extract .... 2 g - Glycerin .. ..... 4 g - Wheat Glycoceramides ... 0.2 g - Pea protein .. 2g - Malic acid ..... . ... 0.1 g - Excipient emulsified ..... .. qsp 100g
The I1 and witch hazel extracts are dissolved in the emulsified excipient and then the other ingredients are added until the mixture is homogeneous.

 This gives a cream that can be used locally, by topical application by massaging to full penetration. This treatment, which can be extended for several weeks, can effectively prevent and fight against the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

Example 7
Anti-drying mascara:
A composition is used comprising the following active ingredients - Extract I1 0.15 g - Hyaluronic acid ... ... 0.1 g Carnauba wax ... .. 1 g - Lanolin - Isopropyl palmitate ... ... 2 g - Beeswax .... ... 8 g -Ozokerite ... .. 6 g - 4% solution of magnesium silicate ... ... 12.5 g - Cellulose gum .... .... 0.7 g - Black iron oxide .. 10 g -Morpholine ... .. 1.6 g - Methacrylolethylbetaine copolymer /
methacrylate (Amersette, Amerchol Co., USA) ... .. 12 g - Water + preservatives ..... qs 100 g
This mascara is prepared according to the standard techniques of those skilled in the art, the extract I1 is introduced into the aqueous phase until complete dissolution.

 This mascara represents a good adhesion on the eyelash. On the other hand, it will be observed that hyaluronic acid enhances the moisturizing activity of the extract I1 of the invention, which makes it possible to maintain the keratin fibers of the eyelashes well hydrated.

Example 8
Treating balm for the lips:
A composition is prepared comprising the following active ingredients: - Extract I1, Example 1. .. 0.1 g - Steraramide ... ... 20g - Methylglucose dioleate ... 14 g - Methylglucose sesquistearate. .. 6 g - Polyoxyethylene methylglucose (Glucam E10 #, Amerchol Co., USA) ... ... 15 g - Mineral oil .... . .. 4 g - Pigment .... 12g - PEG 10 methylglucose sesquistearate .... .. .. 2.5 g - Water + preservatives .... . . . qsp 100 g
This balm is prepared in a conventional manner in the rules of the art, the extract I1 is included in the aqueous phase.

 This balm applied to the books helps to achieve a good hydration of them.

Example 9
Hair lotion "anti-chutc"
A lotion is prepared comprising the following active ingredients - Extract I2, Example 2. 0.1 g - Ceraphyl 60 # .... .. 0.08 g - Cremophor RH40 # .... ... 0.4 g - Ethyl alcohol ... ... 32 g - Perfumed aqueous excipient qs 100 g
This lotion is used in massages of the scalp, preferably in the morning. By acting on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans in the papilla of the hair follicle, this lotion helps to delay hair loss.

Example 10
Hair lotion "anti-fall"
A lotion having the same composition as that described in Example 9 is prepared, except that it also contains 0.1 g of cepharanthine per 100 g of final composition.

Example 11
Treatment shampoo
A shampoo composition is prepared comprising the following ingredients - Extract I1, Example 1 .... 0.1 g - Coconut diethanolamine 2 g - Sodium lauryl ether sulphate 0.5 g - Alkylglucoside .... 15 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.5 g - Excipient .... qs 100 g
The invention comprises all the means constituting technical equivalents of the means described as well as their various combinations. In particular, the invention covers any feature that appears to be new with respect to any state of the art, from the description and the claims taken as a whole.

Claims (14)

 1. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, especially a dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, an extract of plants of the genus Foetidia, in particular of the species Foetidia africana.  2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from 0.0001% to 3% by weight, and in particular from 0.001% to 1% by weight, of the abovementioned Foctidia extract relative to the total weight of the final composition.  3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said composition is formulated for topical application, in particular a cutaneous topical application including skin and mucous membranes.  4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, in addition, at least one other active ingredient in particular selected from the group consisting of retinoids, humectants or moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, substances promoting the synthesis of collagen and amino acids.  5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the aforementioned retinoid is chosen from retinoic acid and its salts and esters, retinaldehyde, and retinol and its esters, such as propionate, palmitate, acetate or the humectant. said moisturizer is selected from glycerol, polyethylene glycol and hyaluronic acid; the above-mentioned vitamin is chosen from vitamin A, vitamin C and its derivatives, in particular its sodium or magnesium salts, vitamin E, vitamin PP and vitamins of group B, in particular B6 and B12; the substance promoting the synthesis of collagen is chosen from an extract of centella asiatica, madecassoside, madécassic acid, asiatic acid and asiatieoside, and the amino acid is selected from serine, threonine, leucine, proline and hydroxyproline.  6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, especially for the care or treatment of hair, characterized in that it further contains at least one other active substance, in an effective concentration, selected from quinine or its derivatives; a rubefiant such as methyl nicotinate; papilla fibroblast culture supernatant; a keratin hydrolyzate; a trace element such as zinc, selenium, copper; a bisbenzylisoquinoline alkaloid such as oxyacanthine or cepharanthine; a 5-o: -reductase inhibitor such as progesterone; cyproterone acetate, minoxidil, azelaic acid and its derivatives; 4-methyl-4-azasteroid, especially 17-ss-N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza-5-o: -androstan-3-one; or an extract of Serenoa repens.  7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aforementioned extract of Foctidia, in particular of Fetidia africana, is a trunk bark extract.  8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the above-mentioned extract of Foctidia is an extract obtained by extraction with a polar solvent, preferably an alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, and the like. isopropanol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol or a mixture of these alcohols or a hydro-alcoholic mixture.  9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the aforementioned extract of Foetidia is an extract enriched with saponins.  10. Use of an extract of plants of the genus Foetidia, in particular of the species Foctidia africana, said extract preferably being incorporated in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, for the preparation of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological composition, in particular having an activity for stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans in the skin and the mucous membranes, in particular in the dermis and in the epidermis, promoting the retention of water in the skin, having a moisturizing activity, a tensor effect attenuating the cutaneous relief and superficial wrinkles, contributing to reinforce the skin barrier function, intended in particular for the prevention or treatment of dry or dehydrated skin, the treatment of the effects of cutaneous scarring, the prevention and the fight against the appearance from stretch marks, to the improvement of the appearance of the skin and the hair, to the prevention n and treatment of hair growth disorders.  11. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that the composition is as defined in one of claims 1 to 9.  12. Use of an extract of plants of the genus Foctidia, in particular of the species Foctidia africana, as agent, especially as a cosmetic agent, intended to stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, in particular the fibroblasts of the dermis, in particular of the human dermis and human keratinocytes.  13. Process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, such as the lips, or superficial body growths, in particular hair, characterized in that it comprises the topical application on the skin, mucous membrane or scalp zones. to be treated, a composition containing an extract of plants of the genus Foetidia, in particular of the species Foctidia africana, present in said composition at a cosmetically effective concentration.  14. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the concentration of the plant extract of the genus Foctidia in the aforementioned composition is between 0.0001% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably between 0.001% and 1%, said extract preferably being incorporated into a cosmetically acceptable excipient.