WO2019020920A2

WO2019020920A2 - Aqueous extract of momordica cochinchinesis for maintaining and/or increasing kindlin expression in the skin and mucous membranes

Info

Publication number: WO2019020920A2
Application number: PCT/FR2018/051884
Authority: WO
Inventors: Florence Henry; Sabine Pain; Nicolas Pelletier; Boris VOGELGESANG
Original assignee: Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas
Priority date: 2017-07-24
Filing date: 2018-07-23
Publication date: 2019-01-31
Also published as: WO2019020920A3; FR3069162A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic and dermatological use of an extract of Momordica Cochinchinesis obtained by aqueous extraction, for maintaining and/or increasing kindlin expression in the skin, and to a corresponding skin-care method.

Description

AQUEOUS EXTRACT OF MOMORDICA COCHINCHINENSIS TO MAINTAIN AND / OR INCREASE THE EXPRESSION OF KINDLINES OF SKIN AND MUCOSES.

The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredient and its cosmetic and / or dermatological use and a composition comprising it for maintaining and / or increasing the expression of skin and / or mucosal kindlines, particularly in the dermis and / or in the epidermis and / or the basal laminae in particular of the dermal-epidermal junction, and / or for preventing and / or repairing the effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, in particular the scalp, and and / or the mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages, in particular for limiting and / or reducing photoaging, and / or its use for improving the healing of the skin.

The kindlines are focal adhesion proteins of the Fermitines family. They bind integrins and actin cytoskeleton to focal adhesion complexes and play a role in the transmission of biochemical signals mediated by integrins. Integrins are heterodimeric transmembrane receptors that allow extracellular cell-matrix (ECM) and cell-cell interactions.

Kindlines 1 and 2 share strong sequence homology and differ from kindline-3. They are also called FERM1, FERM2 and URP2 respectively. Kindline-1 is widely expressed in epithelial cells, in the skin, in the epidermis, and particularly in keratinocytes. Kindline-2 is expressed in a much more ubiquitous way. Kindline-3 is restricted to the hematopoietic system.

Kindlines 1 and 2 play an important role in maintaining the integrity of epithelia, the location and cohesion of cell-matrix adhesions and the activation of integrins.

Inactivation of the genes coding for kindlines 1 and 2 leads to significant negative effects on the formation of focal adhesion complexes, on the organization of the actin cytoskeleton, on cell adhesion, survival, cell migration and the activation of integrins.

In humans, a mutation of kindline-1 is responsible for Kindier syndrome characterized by various skin abnormalities including blistering, atrophy, photosensitivity, and pigmentation defects. Genetic ablation of kindline-1 in mice results in skin atrophy, epithelial detachment, and inflammation. Inflammation is due to loss of epithelial cells which results in an imperfect adhesion of integrins to the basement membranes. Kindline-2 is normally present in Kindier syndrome but does not seem to compensate for the functions of kindline-1. At the level of the epidermis, kindline-1 is mainly present in the plasma membranes of keratinocytes where integrin-mediated adhesions are involved. It guides the adhesion, proliferation and migration of keratinocytes.

It has been shown that kindline-1 decreased during aging in the skin. (Induction of senescence pathways in Kindler syndrome primary keratinocytes. (Piccinni E, Di Zenzo G, Maurelli R, Dellambra E, Teson M, Has C, Zambruno G, Castiglia D. Br J Dermatol 2013 May; 168 (5): 1019 -26, doi: 10.1 1 1 1 / bjd.12184, Epub 2013 Apr 2.))

Like kindline-1, kindline-2 plays an important role in integrin adhesions to the actin cytoskeleton. In mice, inhibition of kindline-2 expression results in embryonic death of the animal by detachment of the endoderm and epiblast. Embryonic stem cells express kindline-2 only. They are, in fact, the best system for studying the functions of kindline-2. In the absence of kindline-2, cell mobility and cell-cell contact formation are particularly affected. Stem cell studies have shown that kindline-2 is a bidirectional signaling protein that activates integrins and binds to the actin cytoskeleton on the one hand and relays the signals via actin through their interactions with different adapter proteins. on the other hand.

In the skin, kindline-2 is almost exclusively located in cell-cell junctions and absent from the dermo-epidermal junction where the kindline-1 is localized. This difference may partly explain why kindline-2 can not compensate for the functions of kindline-1 in Kindler's syndrome.

Kindline-2 is also expressed in the dermis and fibroblasts. It regulates the maturation of focal adhesion zones and the organization of the cytoskeleton in fibroblasts, particularly during regenerative processes such as scarring, which play an important role in wound closure and tissue repair.

It has been shown that the expression of kindline-2 is decreased in UV-treated keratinocytes in a healthy subject, but also in keratinocytes from a donor with Kindler syndrome, and therefore without kindline-1.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has discovered that, like kindline-2, the expression of kindline-1 is decreased in UV-treated keratinocytes (Example 2). It thus appears that the skin and / or mucosal kindlines, in particular kindline-1, represent a new target in the cosmetic treatments of the effects of UV on the skin, in particular of photo-aging, but also in cicatrization. .

In this regard, the Applicant has discovered that the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis obtained by aqueous extraction makes it possible to maintain and / or increase the expression of the skin and / or mucosal kindlines, especially when the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or the cutaneous appendages are subjected to UV exposure (Example 3), in particular at the level of keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts, thus making it possible to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on the skin, especially the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages, in particular those related to the photo aging and / or accelerating the healing processes of the skin, especially the scalp, and / or mucous membranes and restoring healthy tissue, especially by smoothing the reliefs.

Momordica cochinchinensis, also known as Gac, is a melon variety from Southeast Asia, particularly from China, belonging to the cucurbitaceae family.

The seeds of Momordica cochinchinensis have been known in traditional Chinese medicine for over one thousand and two hundred years. They are used to treat conditions such as inflammation, ringworm, scrofula and skin infections. Fresh aril and Momordica cochinchinensis oil are traditionally used in Vietnam for vitality and longevity. The aril is also used to make a tonic solution for children and to stimulate the lactation of pregnant women and to treat dry eyes. The fruit as a whole is also used for the treatment of malnutrition and cancer.

The patent application WO201 1 149929 further discloses a composition for topical application as a sunscreen comprising a water-resistance agent including the use of the hydrolysed jojoba esters and an active ingredient having sunscreen activity, may be aril seed oil of Momordica cochinchinensis. It does not disclose the use of an aqueous extract of Momordica cochinchinensis.

US 6770585 discloses a method of extracting aril oil from the seed of Momordica cochinchinensis. It further discloses the use of this oil in pharmaceutical and cosmetic. It does not disclose the use of an aqueous extract of Momordica cochinchinensis.

US Pat. No. 8668,942 discloses a formulation containing carotenoids, vitamin E and essential fatty acids, provided in the form of a fruit pulp oil of Momordica cochinchinensis for the protection and treatment of oxidative damage to the skin, in particular those related to to UV exposure. It does not disclose the use of aqueous extract of Momordica cochinchinensis to increase the skin and / or mucosal kindlines nor to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on the skin.

Patent Application KR20150025680 discloses the use of a composition comprising a plant extract activating PPARs (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors) alpha and gamma simultaneously, including a fruit extract of Momordica cochinchinensis, for external application to inhibit aging of the skin or improve older skin. The extraction of said plant may be carried out by aqueous extraction and, concerning Momordica cochinchinensis, preferably assisted by ultrasound. This application does not disclose the use of Momordica cochinchinensis extract to increase the kindlines of the skin and / or mucous membranes, or to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on the skin or to limit and / or reduce photoaging .

Thus, to the knowledge of the Applicant, none of the known prior art discloses or suggests the use of an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis, obtained by aqueous extraction, to maintain and / or increase the expression of skin kindlines and or mucous membranes, neither to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or the cutaneous appendages, nor to limit and / or reduce the photo-aging, nor in the context of scarring of the skin, especially the scalp, and / or mucous membranes.

The object of the present invention is to provide a brand new cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient capable of maintaining and / or increasing the expression of the skin and / or mucosal kindlines, in particular in the dermis and / or in the skin. epidermis and / or basal laminae especially of the dermal-epidermal junction. Such an ingredient has the advantage of preventing and / or repairing the effects of UV on the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or the skin appendages, and in particular limiting and / or reducing the photo. aging, and / or facilitate the healing of the skin, especially the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes.

The advantage of this new cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient is to be topically acceptable for the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or the skin appendages, which is non-toxic, readily available, capable of being manufactured and easily packaged on an industrial scale.

A first object of the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis obtained by aqueous extraction to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on healthy skin, including healthy scalp, and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages, particularly to limit and / or reduce photoaging.

Preferably, said extraction is carried out with water as sole solvent. Here, the term "UV effects on the skin" means oxidative damage as well as all cutaneous disorders or UV-induced superficial damage to the skin, especially the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or mucous membranes. cutaneous appendages. Advantageously, the extract according to the invention prevents and / or repairs the effects of UV without UV screening and is therefore not a "UV filter".

Here is meant by "cutaneous appendage" the hairs, the eyelashes, the hair.

Here, the term "prevent effects of UV on the skin" limit and / or prevent the occurrence of said effects before exposure to UV.

The term "repair the effects of UV on the skin" is intended here to limit and / or prevent said effects after UV exposure.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "photo-aging", as opposed to chronological aging or intrinsic aging, the aging of the skin caused by exposure to UV rays, especially the sun. It includes fine lines / wrinkles, pigment spots and / or irregularities of the complexion, lack of radiance of the complexion, lack of firmness, roughness and / or yellowing of the skin, thinness and / or lack of color of the lips.

According to the present invention, the term "limit and / or reduce photoaging" also means preventing the increase and / or decrease the external signs of photoaging mentioned above.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic use and / or cosmetic composition" means a use and / or a non-pharmaceutical composition, that is to say which does not require a therapeutic treatment, that is to say intended for any area of skin, including the scalp, and / or so-called healthy mucosa and / or healthy skin appendages. The term "zone of healthy skin" and / or "healthy skin" and / or "healthy mucosa" and / or "healthy scalp" and / or "healthy skin appendages" "means a zone of skin and / or skin and / or a mucosa and / or a scalp and / or cutaneous appendages on which the extract according to the invention is applied and said to be "non-pathological" by a dermatologist, that is to say not having an infection, scar, disease or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or sores or wounds and / or other dermatoses.

The term "mucous membrane" is intended to mean the ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the urogenital mucosa, the anal mucosa, the nasal mucosa and / or the oral, labial and / or gingival mucosa, preferentially the ocular and / or oral mucous membranes. .

The term "kindlines of the skin and / or mucous membranes" refers to kindline-1 and / or kindline-2 expressed in the skin, especially the scalp, and / or mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages. An object of the present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis obtained by aqueous extraction to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on healthy skin, including healthy scalp, and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages, in particular for limiting and / or reducing photoaging, characterized in that the extract makes it possible to maintain and / or increase the expression of the kindlines of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

"Maintaining the expression of the skin and / or mucosal kindlines" is meant to prevent a decrease in the level of gene expression and / or protein synthesis of the skin and / or mucosal kindlines compared to the expression gene and / or the protein synthesis detected in the absence of the extract according to the invention, in particular the level of gene expression and / or the protein synthesis of the skin and / or mucosal kindlines observed at during extrinsic or intrinsic aging of the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages, in particular under the effect of UV. Preferentially, it is the maintenance of the protein synthesis of the kindlines.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "increase the expression of the skin and / or mucosal kindlines" means an increase in the level of gene expression and / or the protein synthesis of skin and / or mucosal kindlines. preferably at least 10% in the presence of the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis, preferably at least 50%, still more preferably at least 70% relative to the gene expression and / or the protein synthesis detected in the first instance. absence of the extract according to the invention. Preferentially, it is an increase in the protein synthesis of skin and / or mucosal kindlines.

Preferably, the protein synthesis of the kindlines is measured by Western blotting according to the conventional methods known to those skilled in the art. Even more preferentially, it is measured according to the protocol as described in Examples 2 and 3.

Unless otherwise indicated, the term "normal" cells, "normal" keratinocytes, "normal" fibroblasts, cells that do not have any pathology.

Preferably, the extract according to the invention maintains and / or increases the expression of the kindlines of the skin and / or mucous membranes in the dermis and / or in the epidermis and / or the basal laminae, especially of the dermal junction. -epidermal. Preferably, the extract according to the invention maintains and / or increases the expression of skin and / or mucosal kindlines in keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts. Even more preferentially, the extract according to the invention maintains and / or increases the expression of kindline-1 at the keratinocyte level of the epidermis and / or kindline-2 at the keratinocytes of the epidermis and / or fibroblasts of the dermis.

The extract according to the invention may be applied to all or part of the skin, and / or mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages of the body and / or of the face and / or the scalp, preferably the legs, thighs, arms , the belly, décolleté, the neck, the armpits, still preferentially all or part of the face, preferably the cheeks, the forehead, the chin, the lips, the contour of the eyes.

The extract of Momordica cochinchinensis according to the invention is a cosmetic and / or dermatological extract, which is topically acceptable.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topically acceptable" means an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages. , inducing no allergic response, which is not chemically unstable.

Advantageously, the extract and / or the cosmetic composition comprising it is in a form suitable for topical administration.

The extract according to the present invention can be administered orally or topically. Advantageously, it is administered topically. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical route" means the direct local application and / or vaporization of an ingredient on the surface of the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or mucous membranes and / or or skin appendages.

The extract according to the invention may be any aqueous extract of all or part of the plant Momordica cochinchinensis. In particular, the following may be chosen: the root, the bark, the flower, the seed, the germ, the aerial parts, the stem, the branches, the leaf, and their mixtures. The fruit of Momordica cochinchinensis is composed of seed and pericarp. The extract according to the invention is preferably a seed extract. The extract can be obtained by plant extraction methods known in the field, for example by maceration of at least a portion of the plant, preferably between 1% and 30% (w / w) by weight, preferably between 5% and 20% (w / w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the plant part and the solvent, in a solvent or solvent mixture such as water, alcohol, polyol, glycol, water / alcohol mixture, water or glycol or water / polyol, from 100/0 to 0/100 (v / v). For example, the extract may be obtained by extraction in a water / ethanol mixture, particularly in proportion of 70/30 (v / v) respectively. Preferably, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction with water alone. The extract according to the invention can therefore be obtained by extraction of a quantity of 5% to 20% by weight of Momordica cochinchinensis relative to the total weight of Momordica cochinchinensis and of solvent, preferentially water is the sole solvent, preferentially it is an extract of the seed.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more advantageously not containing butylene glycol, in particular not containing alcohol especially methanol, more particularly containing only water.

For the purposes of the present invention, the aqueous extraction is not assisted by sonication. Preferably, the extract according to the invention does not contain carotenoids. The extract may be obtained by extraction at a temperature ranging from 4 ° C. to 95 ° C., preferably from 20 ° C. to 95 ° C., more preferably from 50 ° to 95 ° C., preferably from 70 ° C. to 90 ° C. . In a preferred embodiment, the extraction is carried out at 85 ° C.

The extraction can be carried out for a period of 1 hour to 24 hours, preferably from 1 hour to 12 hours, more preferably from 1 hour to 6 hours. Advantageously, the extraction is carried out for a period of 2 to 3 hours.

Preferably, the extract is prepared according to the protocol described in Examples 1 a) or 1 b). The extract of Momordica cochinchinensis can be used alone as a cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient, or included in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. When used alone in the form of an active ingredient, the extract according to the invention is preferably soluble and dissolved in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, or one of their mixtures, with or without glycerin. Preferably, the extract is dissolved in a mixture of water and glycerine to produce an easily formable cosmetic ingredient. Advantageously in this case, the extract is produced according to the protocol described in Example 1 c).

The subject of the present invention is also the use of the extract according to the invention topically on the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one excipient. cosmetically acceptable. The extract of Momordica cochinchinensis according to the invention is preferably present in the composition at a concentration of 1 × 10 ^-4 % to 10% by weight, preferably 1 × 10 ^-4 % to 5% by weight, more advantageously 1 × 10 ^-3. % to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.001% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the extract is used in a composition as described in Example 4.

In one embodiment of the invention, the extract is used in a cosmetic composition for maintaining and / or increasing the expression of the skin and / or mucosal kindiins, in particular in keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts in particular. to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on the skin, especially the scalp, and / or mucous membranes and / or skin appendages in particular to limit and / or reduce photoaging. The cosmetic composition may furthermore contain one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients chosen from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffering agents, chelating agents, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, matting agents, gloss agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) describes various cosmetic excipients suitable for use in the present invention.

Advantageously, the excipient or excipients are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters , titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphat e, isopropyl hydroxyketyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoine, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxystate, triglycerides capric / caprylic, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, lauryl sodium sulphate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, glycerides of hydrogenated palm heart oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, salted isotonic solution, and mixtures thereof .

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from an aqueous and / or oily solution, an aqueous cream and / or gel and / or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a milk, an emulsion, a microemulsion and / or or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water and / or water-in oil and / or multiple and / or silicone, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a liquid soap, a dermatological bread, an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty and / or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, stick and / or stick, especially in the form of lipstick. Advantageously, it is an emulsion, a microemulsion and / or a nanoemulsion, a serum, an aqueous gel and / or a foundation.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition is a sun care product, in particular a pre-treatment and / or post-sun exposure treatment.

The composition used according to the invention may further contain cosmetic active ingredients leading to a complementary or synergistic effect such as antiaging agents. Among these active agents, there are active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, soothing agents, moisturizers, or agents which are active on the regulation of pore size and / or their opening.

Anti-aging active ingredients include:

an agent stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, in particular a corn extract, such an extract being in particular marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Deliner ™ and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixyl®;

an agent stimulating the formation of collagen fibers such as an extract of Origanum majorana marketed under the name Dermagenist ™ by the Applicant.

an agent stimulating the expression of perlecane and dystoglycan in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, for example an extract of

Polygonum bistorta marketed under the name Perlaura ™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France. an agent for protecting the fibroblast growth factor (FGF2) of the extracellular matrix against its degradation and / or denaturation, in particular an Hibiscus Abelmoscus extract as described in the patent application on behalf of BASF Beauty Care Solutions France filed under the number FR0654316 and marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Linefactor ™ and / or a fibroblast growth stimulating agent, for example a fermented soy extract containing peptides, known under the name Phytokine ™ marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and also described in patent application EP1 1 19344B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience), and preferably a combination of these two extracts; an agent stimulating the synthesis of laminin, in particular a biotechnologically modified malt extract, such an extract being in particular marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Basaline ™;

an agent stimulating the expression and / or the activity of Hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2), such as the plant extracts described in patent application FR 2 893 252 A1 and in particular an aqueous extract of Galanga (Alpinia galanga) and marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Hyalufix ™;

an agent stimulating the synthesis of lysyl oxidase like (LOXL) such as an extract of Geophila cordifolia and those described in the patent application FR2855968, and in particular a dill extract marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Lys'lastine ™;

an agent stimulating the synthesis of intracellular ATP, in particular an extract of the seaweed Laminaria digitata marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name of Seanergilium ™;

an active stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk;

a collagen stimulating active agent such as retinol and / or vitamin C;

an active inhibitor of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as more particularly MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9 such as retinoids and derivatives, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, extract of Argania spinosa leaves marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS under the name Arganyl ™; lycopene; isoflavones, quercetin, kaempferol, apigenin.

a scouring agent, in particular the hyaluronic acid filling spheres sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Hyaluronic Filling Spheres ™.

an agent for increasing the expression of LOX to increase the architecture of the epidermis, such as, for example, a Cichorium intybus extract marketed under the name of LOX-AGE ™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France. an agent for increasing the deglycation of collagen and / or increasing the expression of type I collagen such as a combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacin leaves marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name ColIRepair ™ .

an agent stimulating the synthesis of lumican and collagen, such as a synthetic acetyl Gin asp Val His tetrapeptide marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Dermican ™ and described in the patent application WO2005120554A1.

an agent for protecting and stimulating elastin, collagen such as the extract of Manilkara multinervis leaves marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Elestan ™ and the Eperua falcata root extract marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Eperuline ™ - a pigment stain remover including inhibition of melanin synthesis such as the synergistic complex of extract of Pisum sativum and sucrose dilaurate marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Actiwhite ™, or hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Radianskin ™.

Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, preferably used in the composition according to the invention, include retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate, and phloroglucinol. Agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, as well as Achillea millefollium extract marketed under the name Neurobiox ™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France. As soothing agents preferably used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, omega 3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta-methasone, anti-inflammatory active agents, and in particular those described in the application FR2847267, in particular the extract of Pueraria lobata root marketed under the name Inhipase® by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, the extracts of Theobroma cacao.

Among the active agents on the regulation of the pore size and / or their opening, mention may be made by way of example of a Cichorium intybus extract marketed under the name of LOX-AGE ™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and / or on the production of sebum, mention may be made, for example, of synthetic sarcosine marketed under the name of Mat-XS ™ Clinical and / or an extract of Orthosiphon stamineus as described in patent application WO2010063674 in the name of BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and marketed as MAT XS ™ Bright. As moisturizing agents preferably used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: a combination of pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate such as that marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Patch20 ™

Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic care process characterized in that it comprises the application, preferably topically, of an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis, preferably a seed extract, obtained by aqueous extraction, preferably extracted. with water for a single solvent, and / or a cosmetic composition comprising it, at the level of the healthy skin, in particular the healthy scalp, and / or the healthy mucous membranes and / or the healthy skin appendages, for maintaining and / or increase the expression of skin and / or mucosal kindlines, in particular to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on healthy skin, especially healthy scalp, and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or appendages healthy skin and / or to limit in particular reduce photo-aging.

In one embodiment, the method of care comprising the topical application of an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis obtained by aqueous extraction, or a cosmetic composition comprising it, is carried out on all or part of the healthy body and / or face and / or scalp, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, belly, décolleté, neck, armpits, all or part of the face, including cheeks, forehead, chin, lips , the outline of the eyes.

The method according to the invention can be applied independently of the UV exposure. In a preferred embodiment of the cosmetic care method, the extract may be applied before, during and / or after exposure to UV, preferably

Thus, the cosmetic care process consists in the topical application of a cosmetic composition comprising the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis according to the invention at a concentration of 1 × 10 ⁴ % to 10% by weight, preferably 1 × 10 ⁴ % to 5% by weight, more advantageously from 1 x 10 ^-3 % to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic care method comprises;

a) The identification of an area of healthy skin that we wish to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV and / or limit in particular reduce photo-aging; and,

b) The topical application of the extract of the Momordica cochinchinesis extract according to the invention, preferably a cosmetic composition containing the Momordica cochinchinesis extract according to the invention, on this skin zone. A final subject of the present invention is an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis for its dermatological use for maintaining and / or increasing the expression of skin and / or mucosal kindlines. In particular, the subject of the present invention relates to an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis for its dermatological use, preferably topically, for the healing of the skin.

Preferably, the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis is obtained by aqueous extraction, more preferably the extraction is carried out with water as sole solvent. Advantageously, it is a seed extract.

Thus, in the sense of the latter object, the use of the extract makes it possible to accelerate the speed and / or to improve the quality of the cicatrization.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improving the quality of healing" means restoring skin and / or a so-called "healthy" mucosa, in particular to correct the structure of the epidermis and / or the dermis and / or to have a scar more clear and / or less visible and / or erase the scar and / or smooth the reliefs at the level of the epidermis and / or dermis. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "scarring of the skin" means the substitution of tissue and / or specific cell and / or closure of the wound operated following injury and / or damage to the skin, especially the scalp. , and / or mucous membranes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lesions and / or alteration of the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes" means all the events disturbing the integrity of the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or mucous membranes such as cuts, sutures, abrasions, scrapes, scratches, and preferentially superficial burns and / or sunburn, scars post-surgery or post-act of aesthetic dermatology.

Advantageously, the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis according to the invention is used for the healing of burns, and / or the prevention and / or treatment of sunstrokes, and / or the treatment of post-surgery or post-surgical scars. act of aesthetic dermatology.

The extract according to the invention can be in the form of a pharmaceutical composition, preferably a dermatological composition comprising at least one pharmaceutically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient. In one embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied topically and / or orally, preferably topically. Advantageously, the composition is in a form suitable for topical administration.

Advantageously, the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis according to the invention is present in the pharmaceutical composition, preferentially dermatological, at a concentration of 1 x10 ^{~ 4} % to 10% by weight, preferably between 1 x10 ^{~ 4} % and 5% by weight, more preferably between 1 x10 ^{~ 3} % and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples referring to the description of the invention are presented below. These examples are given by way of illustration and can not in any way limit the scope of the invention. Each of the examples is general in scope. The examples are an integral part of the present invention and any features appearing novel from any prior art from the description as a whole, including the examples, form an integral part of the invention.

Example 1 Preparation of Different Extracts of Momordica cochinchinensis Example 1 a) Momordica cochinchinensis 20%

A quantity of 20% by weight of seeds of Momordica cochinchinensis (origin China) with respect to the total weight of seeds and water is ground with the grinding robot (THERMOMIX®) then homogenized a few seconds using a homogenizer (TURRAX ®) before being extracted in water as the sole solvent at room temperature for a period of 2 hours. The extract is then centrifuged and the pellet removed. The extract obtained is filtered through 0.1-0.3 micron filters and then lyophilized. Example 1 (b) Momordica cochinchinensis 5%

5% by weight of seeds of Momordica cochinchinensis (origin China) with respect to the total weight of seeds and water is the grinding robot (THERMOMIX®) then homogenized a few seconds using a homogenizer (TURRAX®) ) before being extracted in water as the sole solvent at room temperature for a period of 3 hours. The extract is then centrifuged and the pellet removed. The resulting extract is filtered through 0.1-0.3 micron filters.

Example 1 (c) Preparation of Cosmetic Ingredient Containing an Extract of Momordica cochinchinensis

An amount of 20% by weight of Momordica cochinchinensis (China origin) seed based on the total weight of the seed and water was milled and then extracted into water as the sole solvent at room temperature for a period of 2 hours. The extract is then filtered, preferably on 0.1-0.3 micron filters, and the glycerin (80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) is added. After 48 hours, the extract is filtered again, preferably on 2.5-4 micron filters. Example 2 Decrease in the Expression of Kindlines in the UVB-irradiated Keratinocytes

Human so-called "normal", ie non-pathological, keratinocytes from a donor (abdominal skin of a 48-year-old female donor) were seeded on a 12-well plate, covered with collagen, then irradiated with UVB (200 mJ / cm ² ) at confluence.

The cells are then washed with PBS (phosphate buffered saline) and lysed with a specific lysis buffer. The protein concentration is then determined by assay BCA (BiCinchoninic acid Assay) and the protein samples are then adjusted to 0.5 mg / mL in the Sample diluent (ProteinSimple®).

Protein synthesis is then measured by Western Blot for which six tests were averaged via SallySue® technology of the ProteinSimple® brand. All reagents necessary and compatible with this technology also come from the same brand (Biotinylated molecular weight ladder, streptavidin-HRP, DTT, molecular weight standard fluorescence, luminol-S, hydrogen peroxide, sample buffer, running buffer, stacking matrix, matrix separation , wash buffer, and matrix removal buffer). All samples and reagents were prepared according to ProteinSimple recommendations. The proteins of interest (K1 (kindline-1) and K2 (kindline-2) were detected by SallySue technology, based on capillary electrophoresis with primary antibodies (anti-K1, ab68041® from Abcam® dilution 1/1000, and anti-K2, K3269® from SIGMA® dilution 1/50) and then revealed with a secondary antibody coupled to horseradish peroxidase and a chemiluminescent substrate.The chemiluminescent signal is then detected and quantified using Compass® software version 2.7.1 (ProteinSimple®).

The results are expressed in percentages relative to the level of protein synthesis of the kindlines in the keratinocytes irradiated with UVB.

Results:

Table 1

MOY AND

kindline-1: irradiated keratinocytes UVB 200 mJ / cm ² 100 8 kindline-1: non-irradiated keratinocytes 201 33 kindline-2: irradiated keratinocytes UVB 200 mJ / cm ² 100 20 kindline-2: non-irradiated keratinocytes 150 15 Conclusion: The protein synthesis of kindline-1 in normal human keratinocytes decreases by 101% under UVB and the protein synthesis of kindline-2 in normal human keratinocytes decreases by 50% under UVB.

Example 3 Induction of the expression of the kindlines in the UVB-irradiated keratinocytes treated with Momordica cochinchinensis

Human so-called "normal", ie non-pathological, keratinocytes from a donor (abdominal skin of a 48-year-old female donor) were seeded on a 12-well plate, covered with collagen, then irradiated with UVB (200 mJ / cm ² ) at confluence. The cells are then washed with PBS (phosphate buffered saline) and lysed with a specific lysis buffer. The protein concentration is then determined by assay BCA (BiCinchoninic acid Assay) and the protein samples are then adjusted to 0.5 mg / mL in the Sample diluent (ProteinSimple®).

Protein synthesis is then measured by Western Blot for which six tests were averaged via SallySue® technology of the ProteinSimple® brand. All reagents necessary and compatible with this technology also come from the same brand (Biotinylated molecular weight ladder, streptavidin-HRP, DTT, molecular weight standard fluorescence, luminol-S, hydrogen peroxide, sample buffer, running buffer, stacking matrix, matrix separation , wash buffer, and matrix removal buffer). All samples and reagents were prepared according to ProteinSimple recommendations. The proteins of interest (K1 and K2) were detected by SallySue technology, based on capillary electrophoresis with primary antibodies (anti-K1, ab68041® from Abcam® dilution 1/1000, and anti-K2 , K3269® from SIGMA® dilution 1/50) and then revealed with a secondary antibody coupled to horseradish peroxidase and a chemiluminescent substrate. The chemiluminescent signal is then detected and quantified using Compass® software version 2.7.1 (ProteinSimple®).

The results are expressed as percentages relative to the level of expression of the kindlines in the keratinocytes irradiated with UVB.

TGF beta is used as a positive control of the expression of kindlines. Results:

Table 2

MOY EC

kindline-1: TGF beta 10ng / ml 174 6

kindline-1: extract of M. cochinchinesis 5%

21 1, 47 61

Ex. 1 b), 0.5% in cell

Conclusion: The protein synthesis of kindline-1 in normal human UV-treated keratinocytes is re-induced by 11% with Momordica cochinchinensis extract and only 74% with TGF beta (10 ng / ml).

Table 3

MOY EC

kindline-1: TGF beta 10ng / ml 174 6

kindline-1: extract of M. cochinchinesis 20%

203.19 19

Ex. 1 a), 0.07% in cell

Conclusion: The protein synthesis of kindline-1 in normal human UV-treated keratinocytes is re-induced by 103% with Momordica cochinchinensis extract and only 74% with TGF beta (10ng / mL).

Table 4

MOY EC

kindline-2: TGF beta 10ng / ml 153 10

kindline-2: extract of M. cochinchinesis 5%

170 30

Ex. 1 b), 0.5% in cell

CONCLUSION: Protein synthesis of kindline-2 in normal human UV-treated keratinocytes is re-induced by 70% with Momordica cochinchinensis extract and only 53% with TGF beta (10ng / mL).

EXAMPLE 4 Example of a Cosmetic Edict Comprising an Extract of Momordica Cochinchinensis

Momordica cochinchinensis extract 20% of 0.2%

MP

Glycerin 80%

Water QSP 100 Example 5: Example of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis

The procedure is carried out according to the methods known to those skilled in the art for mixing together the various phases A, B, C, D below to prepare a composition according to the present invention. The proportions are expressed in%.

Phase A

Glycerine Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate 4.00

Pentaerythrityl distearate 1, 50

Cétéaryl Isononanoate 3.00 Propylheptyl caprylate 5.00

Coco caprylate 2.00

Dicaprylyl carbonate 3.00

Dimethicone 1, 00 Phase B

Water 64.43

Propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, methylparaben 1, 00

Glycerin 1, 57

Xanthan Gum 0.20 Butylene Glycol 2.00

Sodium hydroxide, water 0.15

Phase C

Carbomer 0.15 Water 10

Phase D

Momordica cochinchinensis extract obtained according to example 1 c) 1, 00

Example 5: Example of a dermatological composition in the form of an ointment containing the extract according to the invention.

The composition below is prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular as regards the different phases to be mixed together. The amounts indicated are in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ingredient ^* 3.00

Excipient:

Low density polyethylene 5.50

Liquid paraffin Qsp 100

^* The ingredient is prepared according to Example 1 c) above. The ingredient according to the invention is sterilized and then dried before being incorporated into the composition as an ointment.

Claims

claims

Cosmetic use of an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis obtained by aqueous extraction to prevent and / or repair the effects of UV on healthy skin, including healthy scalp, and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages, in particular to limit and / or reduce photoaging. Use according to claim 1 characterized in that the extract makes it possible to maintain and / or increase the expression of the kindlines of the skin and / or the mucous membranes.

Use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the extraction of Momordica cochinchinensis is carried out with water as sole solvent.

Use according to one of Claims 2 or 3 for maintaining and / or increasing the expression of the skin and / or mucosal kindlines in the dermis and / or in the epidermis and / or the basal laminae, especially of the dermal junction. - epidermic.

Use according to one of claims 2 to 4, in which the extract maintains and / or increases the expression of kindline-1 in keratinocytes of the epidermis and / or kindline-2 in the keratinocytes of the the epidermis and / or fibroblasts of the dermis.

Use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis is a seed extract.

Use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract is used topically.

Use of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis is present in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, at a concentration of 1 x 10 ⁴ % to 10% by weight. weight, preferably from 1 x 10 ⁴ % to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 x 10 ^-3 % to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises the application of an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis obtained by aqueous extraction and / or a cosmetic composition comprising it, at the level of the healthy skin, in particular the healthy scalp, and and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages, for maintaining and / or increasing the expression of skin and / or mucosal kindlines, in particular for preventing and / or repairing the effects of UV on healthy skin, in particular healthy scalp, and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages, particularly to limit and / or reduce photoaging.

10. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 9, wherein the topical application of an extract of Momordica cochinchinensis obtained by aqueous extraction or a cosmetic composition comprising it, is performed on all or part of the body and / or of the face and / or the scalp, preferably the legs, the thighs, the arms, the belly, the cleavage, the neck, the armpits, the lips, preferably all or part of the face, and preferentially the cheeks, the forehead , chin, lips, eye area.

11. Cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 9 or 10, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises the extract of Momordica cochinchinensis at a concentration of 1 x10 ^"4 % to 10% by weight, preferably 1 x10 ⁴ %. to 5% by weight, more preferably 1 x10 ^"3% to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. Momordica cochinchinensis extract obtained by aqueous extraction, preferably with water as a single solvent, for its dermatological use, preferably topically, for the healing of the skin, especially the scalp, and / or mucous membranes.

13. Momordica cochinchinensis extract for use according to claim 12 for use in accelerating the rate and / or improving the quality of healing.

14. Momordica cochinchinensis extract for its use according to claim 12 for its use for the healing of superficial burns, and / or the prevention and / or treatment of sunstrokes, and / or the treatment of scars after surgery or post -act of aesthetic dermatology.

15. Momordica cochinchinensis extract for use according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological composition comprising at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.

16. Momordica cochinchinensis extract for use according to any one of claims 12 to 15, characterized in that it is present in the pharmaceutical composition, preferably dermatological, at a concentration of 1 x10 ^" ⁴ % to 10% by weight preferably between 1 x 10 ⁴ % and 5% by weight, more advantageously between 1 x 10 ³ % and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.