FR2837703A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for skin or hair treatment comprises an extract of Citrus mutis fruit - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises an extract of Citrus mutis fruit. An Independent claim is also included for production of a composition as above by expressing juice from Citrus mutis fruits, mixing the juice with an extraction solvent, macerating the mixture, filtering the mixture and incorporating the filtrate into a cosmetic composition at room temperature.

Description

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Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition containing an extract of Citrus
Mutis blanco
The present invention relates to a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition containing a plant extract containing citric acid, this extract corresponding to an extract of Citrus Mutis Blanco. Citrus Mutis Blanco is a plant selected from the Citrus genus and more particularly from the Rutaceae family. Citrus Mutis Blanco has been selected in particular for its astringent effects, thus making it possible to gently fight against the aging effects of the skin of the face, and / or of the body, including the scalp, and to combat acne and or skin disorders. The astringent effect improves the smoothing of the skin and its firming.

 Citrus Mutis Blanco, also called Citrofortunella Mitis in scientific literature, corresponds to a tropical fruit generally called calamondin or calamansi. This tropical fruit is native to China, but is now widely grown in South Asia, the Philippines and Malaysia. This fruit is commonly used in cooking, to make alcoholic or non-alcoholic drinks, cakes, sauces or jams. We know in particular the use of calamansi in an alcohol based on coconut to give it a smell of brandy, from the teaching of document WO 84/02719.

 Calamansi is a small fruit of the order of 3 to 4 centimeters wide. It looks from its outward appearance like a hybrid between a mandarin and a lemon, or a kumquat. When the fruit is mature, it has a green exterior appearance, as it ages it becomes wrinkled and has a color between yellow and orange.

 In the preparation of cosmetic compositions, and very particularly in compositions for restoring luminosity and tone to dry skin, the use of a plant of the genus Citrus and more particularly of the family of Rutaceae is known. This type of composition is in particular described in the document JP-A-01213719. In particular, we know from the teaching of this document, a selection of plants chosen from the Citrus Rutaceae family, to specifically restore luminosity and tone to the skin on which such a composition is

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 applied. The selection of these plant extracts is only known for this specific action on the skin. In addition, this selection does not cite the Citrus Mutis Blanco.

 But, when one wishes to solve problems related to acne or oily skin, one seeks in particular to reduce the shine of the skin. Therefore the teaching of document JP-A-01213719 does not apply.

Surprisingly, it appears that the extracts of Citrus Mutis Blanco make it possible to reduce the shine of the skin, due to its mainly astringent effect, during its topical or external application on young skin with acne-prone tendencies, and or skin having tendency to become oily. In fact, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to tighten the pores of the skin, and thus to limit the sebaceous secretions of this type of skin. It also participates in the natural exfoliation of the surface layers of the epidermis. Citrus Mutis Blanco is also a regulator of the enzymes involved in acne phenomena, and in particular of the 5-alpha-reductase enzyme.

 Furthermore, Citrus Mutis Blanco extracts also have a beneficial effect when incorporated into lotions, masks, shampoos, balms or other compositions intended for hair treatment. Indeed, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to restructure the hair fibers by restructuring them, by smoothing the scales of split hair. The tightening of the scales of the hair gives them shine. It makes it possible to smooth damaged hair, and to restore it to the softness of the fact that the hair now slides better relative to each other.

 In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a proportion of an extract of Citrus Mutis Blanco of between 0.1% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 3 and 10%.

 Citrus Mutis Blanco extract is obtained by squeezing the Citrus Mutis Blanc fruit in order to recover a juice. This juice can be directly incorporated into a cosmetic composition, or it can alternatively be incorporated into a phase comprising an extraction solvent in which the active molecules of the fruit juice are released. The extraction solvent is for example chosen from water, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene

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glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers, diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents
According to a first method of preparation, the extraction takes place naturally in the extraction solvent, for example in butylene glycol, during a maturation process The maturation can be of the order of a fortnight. After this maturation, the mixture of Citrus Mutis Blanco juice and butylene glycol is subjected to sterilizing filtration.

 According to a second method of preparation, the active molecules are recovered by extraction using ultrasound technology. In this case, the extraction solvent preferably comprises butylene glycol, glycerin and water. The extract is obtained by ultrasound irradiation of the mixture obtained. Microwave extraction techniques or counter current techniques, or reflux extraction can also be used. Ultrasound generates the opening of the pulp membranes of the fruit juice, and thus releases the active molecules contained in this pulp in the mixture. After ultrasound irradiation, the mixture is first coarsely filtered, then clarified, and finally sterilized. The extract obtained according to the second mode of preparation is of greater purity than that obtained according to the first mode of preparation.

 The mixture thus obtained can then be incorporated into any type of composition, preferably during a final stage of preparation, by incorporation at room temperature in these compositions. These compositions can be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions (O / W) or water-in-oil emulsions (W / O), creams, milks, gels, lotions , masks, sticks, ointments, soaps, pencils, sprays, or body oils. These various dosage forms are prepared according to the usual techniques. These compositions can be presented in the form of care products for the face, and for example of exfoliating gel, or care product for the hair, for example in the form of shampoos, hair lotions, or masks.

 The active molecules of a Citrus Mutis Blanco extract are

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 including vitamin C, citric acid and alpha and beta hydroxy acids.

 The concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids and in particular of citric acid can generally vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. To obtain an extract of Citrus Mutis Blanco with a high concentration of alpha hydroxy acids, it is preferable to press both the fruit and its skin, a phase comprising up to 6% citric acid is then obtained.

 The concentrations of vitamin C or of one of its derivatives can generally vary from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. To obtain an extract of Citrus Mutis Blanco with a high concentration of natural vitamin C, it is preferable to squeeze both the fruit and its skin, because the skin of the fruit proportionally contains more ascorbic acid, a phase comprising up to '' 0.2% natural vitamin C.

 Alpha hydroxy acids such as citric acid facilitate the exfoliation of cells on the surface of the epidermis, and very significantly improve the mechanisms of desquamation, oxygenation and hydration of cells.

In addition, they stimulate the synthesis of glycoaminoglycans. The presence of these natural alpha hydroxy acids makes it possible to intervene in the acne treatment processes, and at the same time stimulates cell renewal.

 The action of the composition once absorbed by the upper layers of the skin, is improved by the fact that it contains vitamin C. Vitamin C, in combination with alpha hydroxy acids, has the advantage of exerting an action anti-radical and a gentle exfoliation accompanied by keroregulation.

 Vitamin C can further improve the anti aging treatment process, as it controls pigmentation disorders (role inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin), and it limits atrophy of the dermis and epidermis. by promoting the synthesis of collagen. In addition, vitamin C stimulates the protection of the skin against external aggressions, and provides it with an anti-radical system.

 In such a composition, the presence of alpha hydroxy acids reinforces the action of depigmentation, and lightening of the skin; to thus prevent one of the symptoms of aging which is the appearance of spots, generally of brownish color, at the level where the epidermis is

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 thinner.

 The composition according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants and excipients commonly used in the techniques of cosmetic and dermatological compositions. It can for example contain preservatives, thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, viscosifying agents, surfactants, emulsifying agents, humectants, antioxidants, hydrating agents, perfumes, and various additives intended to improve the physical properties of the composition.

 The gelling agents or thickeners can for example be chosen from acrylate copolymers, for example polymethyl methacrylate, or natural gums, for example a xanthan gum, or cellulose derivatives such as mucilages. A component such as perfluorodecaline can be advantageously incorporated to improve the smoothness of such a composition.

 The moisturizing or moisturizing agent can be chosen from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, pentaerythritol, glycerin, glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, pentylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates of glyceryl, glycerol or glycerol derivatives. In general, any hydrating agent suitable for cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be used in the present invention. The humectant is advantageously introduced into the aqueous phase during the preparation of the emulsion. The content of humectant is generally between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. However, it can represent up to 20% and even 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, in particular when the humectants are chosen by polyols or glycols, for example butylene glycol, or glycerin.

 The usual preservatives of the technique of cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be used in the invention, and for example alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and isopropanol, or also benzophenone, phenoxyethanol, or benzoic acid and methyl and / or propyl parahydroxybenzoates, individually or in combination, or chlorphenesin.

 Protective agents against ultraviolet rays can

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 also be used. These protective agents can for example be sunscreens such as benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative, or a cinnamate and more particularly ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

One can also use pigments forming an anti-ultraviolet screen, which can for example be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or aluminum.

 Coloring agents can also be incorporated. For example, it is planned to add pearlescent agents or titanium to obtain a specific pearly effect.

 The characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear in more detail in the description which follows, relating to preferred embodiments. In these examples, the parts and percentages are expressed by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1
Make-up removing water is prepared by operating as indicated below, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry. The weight composition is as follows.

Phase A: Glycerox 767 2.50 g Tween 20 1.00 g Perfume 0.07 g Phase B: Titriplex III 0.10 g Germaben Il 1.00 g Citrus Mutis Blanco "MO" extract 3.00 g QSP 100 water Phase C: TEA 50% in sufficient quantity to obtain a pH between 5.5 and 6.5
Among phase A products, Glycerox 767 contains a mixture of caprylic PEG-6 and capric glycerides; the Tween 20

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 contains polysorbate 20; these two components being introduced in phase A for their emulsifying role, in particular allowing the solubilization of fat. Tween 20 is also capable of dissolving the perfume, this perfume is preferably of a "light fruity" fragrance.

Among the components of phase B, the Titriplex III includes EDTA, which is a metal chelator and makes it possible to limit the oxidation phenomena. Germaben It is a preservative comprising propylene Glycol, diazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, and propylparaben. Citrus Mutis Blanco extract "MO" corresponds to a Citrus Mutis Blanco extract obtained by ultrasonic technology, and mixed with a mixture of glycerin, butylene glycol and water
The components of Phase B are incorporated at room temperature into the components of Phase A. The phase thus obtained is homogenized and the pH of this mixture is corrected with TEA (triethanolamine) at 50%.

Example 2
A conditioner lotion for damaged hair is prepared by operating as indicated below, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry. The weight composition is as follows.

Phase A: Jaguar C13S 0.20 g Pecosil SW PQ40 0.30 g Water QSP 100 Phase B: Lanette 0 OR 2.00 g Crodet S40 0.25 g Lexquat AMG-BEO 2.00 g Phase C: Germaben Il 0, 80 g Citrus Mutis Blanco "BG" extract 0.70 g

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Perfume 0.15 g NaOH in sufficient quantity to obtain a pH between 5.5 and 6.5
Among the products of phase A, Jaguar C13S is a gelling agent comprising a mixture of guar gum hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride; Pecosil SW PQ40 is a conditioner comprising panthenol quat silicone.

 Among the components of phase B, Lanette 0 OR is a wax containing cetearyl alcohol. Crodet S40 is a texture agent comprising PEG 40 stearate. Lexquat AMG-BEO is a conditioner containing Behenamido trimethyl Ammonium Chloride.

 In Phase C, the Citrus Mutis Blanco extract "BG" corresponds to an extract of Citrus Mutis Blanco obtained by simple decoction in a solvent, in this case Butylene Glycol. The perfume chosen is preferably a "lemon" fragrance.

 The components of Phases A are mixed with moderate stirring and at a temperature of the order of 75 C. Phase B is carried out under the same conditions as phase A. An emulsion is produced by mixing phases A and B. It is cooled gradually before successively adding the components of phase C. The phase thus obtained is homogenized and the pH of this mixture is corrected with sodium hydroxide.

Example 3
A hair mask is prepared by operating as indicated below, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry. The weight composition is as follows.

Phase A: Emulium Delta 4.50 g Jojoba oil 8.00 g Lanette 0 OR 2.55 g Cremeol SH 1.60 g Cremeol PFO 5.20 g

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Phase B: Water QSP 100 Rhodicare T 0.20 g Phase C: Germaben Il 0.80 g "juice" of Citrus Mutis Blanco 10.00 g Dex panthenol 0.50 g Perfume QS NaOH in sufficient quantity to obtain a pH between 5 , 5 and 6.5
Among the products of phase A, Emulium delta is an emulsifier comprising a mixture of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, ceteth 20 and Steareth-20; Jojoba oil, Lanette 0 OR, Cremeol SH (Shorea Stenoptera Butter) and Cremeol PFO (Passiflora Incarnata Oil) are fatty texturing agents.

 Among the components of phase B, rhodicare T is a gelling agent comprising a xanthan gum.

 In Phase C, the Citrus Mutis Blanco extract "juice" corresponds to the simple juice of the Citrus Mutis Blanco fruit obtained. The perfume chosen is preferably of a "fruity orange" fragrance, for example of reference 268111, added in sufficient quantity.

 The components of Phases A are mixed with moderate stirring and at a temperature of the order of 75 C. Phase B is carried out by heating the water to 75 C and dispersing the Rhodicare T in fine rain over the heated water, with moderate agitation. An emulsion is produced by mixing phases A and B with rapid stirring at 75 C. It is gradually cooled while gradually reducing the stirring speed. The phase thus obtained is homogenized before successively adding the components of phase C, at a temperature of around 40 C and the pH of this mixture is adjusted with sodium hydroxide.

Claims (6)

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises a plant extract obtained from the fruit of Citrus Mutis Blanco.  2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it provides an astringent effect on the skin during a topical or external application.  3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Citrus Mutis Blanco extract represents between 0.1 and 50% by weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 10%.  4. Preparation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that - Citrus Mutis Blanco fruits are pressed to obtain a juice; - This juice is mixed with an extraction solvent, and this mixture is left to macerate; - the macerated mixture is filtered; - The mixture filtered at room temperature is incorporated into a cosmetic composition.  5. Preparation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that - the juice is extracted in an extraction solvent comprising butylene glycol, glycerin and water by techniques d extraction using ultrasound.  6. Preparation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to, characterized in that - the juice is extracted in an extraction solvent according to a microwave technique or according to an extraction technique against the current, or according to a reflux extraction technique.