FR2706314A1 - Self-locking descender for mountaineering - Google Patents
Self-locking descender for mountaineering Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2706314A1 FR2706314A1 FR9307231A FR9307231A FR2706314A1 FR 2706314 A1 FR2706314 A1 FR 2706314A1 FR 9307231 A FR9307231 A FR 9307231A FR 9307231 A FR9307231 A FR 9307231A FR 2706314 A1 FR2706314 A1 FR 2706314A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- descender
- rope
- relief
- mountaineering
- hole
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
- A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
- A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
- A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A62—LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
- A62B—DEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
- A62B1/00—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
- A62B1/02—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rescue cages, bags, or the like
- A62B1/04—Single parts, e.g. fastening devices
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A62—LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
- A62B—DEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
- A62B1/00—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
- A62B1/06—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Business, Economics & Management (AREA)
- Emergency Management (AREA)
- Pulmonology (AREA)
- Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
- Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La présente invention concerne le domaine de l'escalade et de i'alpinisme (voire le canyonning) et plus particulièrement les descendeurs. The present invention relates to the field of climbing and mountaineering (or even canyonning) and more particularly descenders.
D'une façon tout à fait courante le grimpeur utilise pour l'assurance ou pour descendre le long d'une corde de rappel, généralement en double, un descendeur appelé "huit" du fait de sa forme constituée de 2 anneaux de diamètres différents reliés par une partie centrale, cette pièce métallique étant moulée ou forgée. Ce descendeur "en huit" remplit son rôle, la corde étant freinée par son passage dans ce descendeur et maintenue en permanence par l'utilisateur à deux mains, que ce soit pour la descente en rappel ou pour l'assurance du premier de cordée. In a very common way the climber uses for insurance or to descend along a rope, generally in duplicate, a descender called "eight" because of its shape made up of 2 rings of different diameters connected by a central part, this metal part being molded or forged. This descender "in eight" fulfills its role, the rope being braked by its passage in this descender and permanently maintained by the user with two hands, whether for abseiling or for the assurance of the first roped.
Toutefois ce descendeur en huit possède un inconvénient majeur pour la descente en rappel : en cas d'inattention de l'utilisateur ou de choc sur la tête (chute de pierre), celui-ci va lâcher la corde et rien ntempêchera la chute fatale. However, this eighth descender has a major drawback for abseiling: in the event of inattention on the part of the user or impact on the head (rock fall), the user will let go of the rope and nothing will prevent the fatal fall.
La présente invention concerne un descendeur qui évite cet inconvénient majeur dans la mesure où l'utilisateur pourra, en utilisant la partie nouvelle de l'invention, être bloqué automatiquement s'il lache la corde, volontairement ou non, et aura toujours la possibilité d'utiliser le descendeur normalement pour l'assurage ou la descente en rappel. The present invention relates to a descender which avoids this major drawback insofar as the user can, using the new part of the invention, be blocked automatically if he releases the rope, voluntarily or not, and will always have the possibility of '' use the descender normally for belaying or abseiling.
Le fait d'obtenir un auto-blocage automatique est très important pour la sécurité de l'utilisateur et il évitera de nombreux accidents graves. Obtaining automatic self-locking is very important for the safety of the user and will prevent many serious accidents.
Ce résultat nouveau est obtenu par la juxtaposition d'un petit anneau possédant un ensemble de formes et de dimensions qui vont permettre indif féremment l'utilisation de cordes de rappel de diamètres 8,2 à 9mm et d' une pièce libre qui emprisonne la corde et qui comportera une section sensiblement ronde (dans la zone en contact avec l'anneau) de diamètre minimum voisin de lOmm; l'ensemble de formes du petit anneau étant principalement constitué par - un trou rond ou ovale connu en soi, - une zone d'appui pour le maintien correct de la pièce (M), - et un relief qui va servir d'appui pour le basculement de (M) pour libérer la corde du coincement obtenu et amorcer ainsi la descente. This new result is obtained by the juxtaposition of a small ring having a set of shapes and dimensions which will allow indifferently the use of return ropes of diameters 8,2 to 9mm and a free part which traps the rope and which will include a substantially round section (in the zone in contact with the ring) of minimum diameter close to 10 mm; the set of shapes of the small ring being mainly constituted by - a round or oval hole known per se, - a support zone for the correct maintenance of the part (M), - and a relief which will serve as support for the tilting of (M) to free the rope from the jamming obtained and thus initiate the descent.
Ces caractéristiques nouvelles seront mieux comprises grace aux figures suivantes
- La figure 1 présente un descendeur en huit classique et la Figure 2
ce même descendeur vu de côté.These new characteristics will be better understood thanks to the following figures
- Figure 1 shows a classic figure-eight descender and Figure 2
this same descender seen from the side.
- La figure 3 présente un mode de réalisation du descendeur de l'in
vention et la figure 4 une vue de côté de ce même descendeur en coupe a de la fig.3
- La figure 5 présente en coupe a, une partie du descendeur cto position de blocage de la corde.- Figure 3 shows an embodiment of the in descender
vention and Figure 4 a side view of the same descender in section a of fig.3
- Figure 5 shows in section a, part of the descender cto rope locking position.
- La figure 6 présente, en coupe b de la figure 3, une pièce (M) spéciale en position de blocage de la corde. - Figure 6 shows, in section b of Figure 3, a special part (M) in the rope locking position.
- La figure 7 présente le descendeur vu de côté en position de descente. - Figure 7 shows the descender seen from the side in the descent position.
Les figures 1 et 2 montrent donc un descendeur classique actuel constitué d'un grand anneau (A) et d'un petit anneau (B) et le passage de la corde (C) pour la descente non sécurisée puisque si l'utilisateur lâche la corde la chute est fatale. Figures 1 and 2 therefore show a current classic descender consisting of a large ring (A) and a small ring (B) and the passage of the rope (C) for the unsafe descent since if the user releases the rope the fall is fatal.
Les figures 3 et 4 montrent le descendeur de l'invention dans lequel le petit anneau (D) possède un ensemble de formes caractéristiques qui vont permettre, en collaboration avec une pièce (M) non représentée ici, l'autoblocage de la corde de rappel. Dans cette réalisation les éléments qui permettent ce résultat sont - un trou (1) ovale dont la Petite dimension est 25mm environ et la gran
de 30mm environ.Figures 3 and 4 show the descender of the invention in which the small ring (D) has a set of characteristic shapes which will allow, in collaboration with a part (M) not shown here, the self-locking of the return rope . In this realization the elements which allow this result are - an oval hole (1) whose Small dimension is approximately 25mm and the large
about 30mm.
- une zone d'appui (2) constituée par une partie conique de chaque côté b'
du trou (1) et dont l'angle au sommet est voisin de 700, qui va servir
d'appui à la pièce (M) en phase de blocage de la corde (C) comme on le
voit bien sur les figures 5 et 6.- a support zone (2) constituted by a conical part on each side b '
of the hole (1) and whose apex angle is close to 700, which will be used
supporting the workpiece (M) in the rope blocking phase (C) as shown
can see clearly in Figures 5 and 6.
- un relief (3) disposé à proximité du trou (1) de hauteur lOmm environ
et qui va sevir d'appui pour basculer la pièce (M), en position de blo
cage, vers le descendeur pour libérer la corde (c) et amorcer la des
cente comme on le voit bien sur la figure 7.- a relief (3) arranged near the hole (1) of height about 10 mm
and which will withdraw from support to tilt the part (M), in the blo position
cage, towards the descender to release the rope (c) and initiate the des
cente as seen in Figure 7.
- une pièce (M) libre, constituée par un mousqueton classique, asymétri
que en forme générale de D, et dont la section sensiblement ronde aura
un diamètre voisin de lOmm.- a free piece (M), consisting of a classic, asymmetric carabiner
than in general D shape, and whose substantially round section will have
a diameter close to 10 mm.
Le fonctionnement du nouveau descendeur est d'une grande simplicité : après avoir accroché le descendeur à son baudrier grace à un mousqueton de sécurité (5) passé dans l'anneau A, l'utilisateur passe sa corde(C)en double dans le trou (1) en formant 2 boucles de corde dans lesquelles il passe le mousqueton (M). The operation of the new descender is very simple: after having hooked the descender to his harness thanks to a safety carabiner (5) passed through ring A, the user passes his rope (C) twice through the hole (1) by forming 2 loops of rope in which it passes the carabiner (M).
Pour descendre il lui suffit de maintenir d'une main le mousqueton (M) plaqué sur le descendeur, suivant la flèche (4) comme on le voit bien en figure 7. To descend, it is sufficient to hold the carabiner (M) pressed against the descender with one hand, following the arrow (4) as can be seen in FIG. 7.
En cas de problème (perte de conscience dûe à une chute de pierre par exemple), ou volontairement, l'utilisateur relâche le mousqueton M qui, sous la tension de la corde (C) bascule automatiquement autour du relief
(3) et vient se placer sensiblement perpendiculaire au descendeur (fig 6).In the event of a problem (loss of consciousness due to a rock fall for example), or voluntarily, the user releases the carabiner M which, under the tension of the rope (C) automatically switches around the relief
(3) and is placed substantially perpendicular to the descender (fig 6).
Compte tenu de l'espace restreint du trou (l)du diamètre des cordes et du diamètre du mousqueton M, on obtient alors un blocage total de la corde
(C) : on a donc réalisé un descendeur auto-bloquant, ce qui apporte ainsi une contribution importante à la sécurité des grimpeurs.Taking into account the limited space of the hole (l) of the diameter of the ropes and the diameter of the carabiner M, a total blocking of the rope is then obtained.
(C): a self-locking descender was therefore produced, which thus makes an important contribution to the safety of climbers.
La figure 5 représente, en coupe a (échelle 1 environ), l'anneau D avec son relief (3) et la corde (c) en position de blocage en particulier grace au mousqueton (M). FIG. 5 represents, in section a (scale approximately 1), the ring D with its relief (3) and the rope (c) in the locking position in particular thanks to the carabiner (M).
La figure 6 présente, en coupe b de la figure 3, une pièce Ml, qui remlace un mousqueton, et qui pressente une forme symétrique sensiblement circulaire (7) pour s'inscrire et pénétrer dans la zone de portion de cône (2) du petit anneau (D), forme qui est plaquée en permanence contre (2) par la corde (C). Bien que la pièce (mol) ne soit pas représentée en totalité, on comprend qu'elle doit avoir une ouverture pour emprisonner (C) et une forme allongée pour diminuer l'effort à exercer selon la flèche (4) lors du basculement. Figure 6 shows, in section b of Figure 3, a piece Ml, which replaces a carabiner, and which senses a substantially circular symmetrical shape (7) to register and penetrate the cone portion area (2) of the small ring (D), shape which is permanently pressed against (2) by the rope (C). Although the part (mol) is not shown in its entirety, it is understood that it must have an opening to trap (C) and an elongated shape to reduce the force to be exerted according to the arrow (4) during tilting.
La figure 7 présente, en vue de côté, le descendeur en phase de descente : sur cette figure on voit bien comment le relief permis à la pièce (M) poussée contre le grand anneau (A) suivant la flèche(4; de libé er la corde (C) du petit anneau (D) et de permettre ainsi son coulisse ment. Figure 7 shows, in side view, the descender in the descent phase: in this figure we can see how the relief allowed for the part (M) pushed against the large ring (A) according to the arrow (4; to release the rope (C) of the small ring (D) and thus allow it to slide.
On peut noter que dans l'invention on retrouve de bons résultats déjà connus dans l'art antérieur : l'absence de vrillage de la corde et l'abscence de "peluchage" de cette dernière car toutes les zones en contact avec la corde ont un rayon voisin de 5mm, ce qui est un autre avantage du descendeur de l'invention. It can be noted that in the invention there are good results already known in the prior art: the absence of twisting of the rope and the absence of "fluffing" of the latter because all the areas in contact with the rope have a radius close to 5 mm, which is another advantage of the descender of the invention.
On ne sortira pas du cadre de l'invention en modifiant les proportions des éléments caractéristiques, en changeant la position du relief (3) ou sa forme, ou en créant un relief symétrique de (3) pour que le descendeur soit utilisable des deux côtés, ou si la pièce (M) est rendue solidaire du descendeur par un axe d'articulation placé dans (3) par exemple. We will not depart from the scope of the invention by modifying the proportions of the characteristic elements, by changing the position of the relief (3) or its shape, or by creating a symmetrical relief of (3) so that the descender can be used on both sides. , or if the part (M) is made integral with the descender by a hinge pin placed in (3) for example.
De même on reste dans le cadre de l'invention si l'ensemble des dimensions est revu pour accepter des cordes de diamètres supérieurs à9mm ou si l'on modifie la forme (7) de la pièce (X4). Similarly, it remains within the scope of the invention if all the dimensions are reviewed to accept cords with diameters greater than 9mm or if the shape (7) of the part (X4) is modified.
Le descendeur de l'invention participe donc de façon importante à la sécurité des grimpeurs et alpinistes. The descender of the invention therefore plays an important role in the safety of climbers and mountaineers.
Claims (6)
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9307231A FR2706314B1 (en) | 1993-06-14 | 1993-06-14 | Self-locking descender for mountaineering. |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9307231A FR2706314B1 (en) | 1993-06-14 | 1993-06-14 | Self-locking descender for mountaineering. |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
FR2706314A1 true FR2706314A1 (en) | 1994-12-23 |
FR2706314B1 FR2706314B1 (en) | 1995-09-01 |
Family
ID=9448172
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
FR9307231A Expired - Fee Related FR2706314B1 (en) | 1993-06-14 | 1993-06-14 | Self-locking descender for mountaineering. |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
FR (1) | FR2706314B1 (en) |
Cited By (8)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0734743A1 (en) * | 1995-03-27 | 1996-10-02 | Zedel | Energy absorbing device associated with a safety line |
DE10027559A1 (en) * | 2000-06-02 | 2001-12-13 | Thomas Reinhardt | Brake for climbing ropes of synthetic fibers has a housing with passage openings for the rope loops and a moving bar to act on them in a self-clamping and secure action |
FR2832068A1 (en) * | 2001-11-14 | 2003-05-16 | Contat Freres Ets | Method for obtaining mountaineering figure eight descender consists of deforming metal section portion to give it its final figure of eight shape |
US6607058B2 (en) | 2000-06-02 | 2003-08-19 | Tre-Erwin Angerbauer-Roland Bross-Thomas Reinhardt Gesellschaft Burgerlichen Rechts | Rope brake |
FR2836635A1 (en) * | 2002-03-01 | 2003-09-05 | Jean Paul Frechin | Cord brake for mountaineering and climbing has block with rectangular cut out having internal braking faces |
FR2889814A1 (en) * | 2005-08-18 | 2007-02-23 | Argenton Pierre | Mountain climbing assistance device for rappelling, has snap hook blocking descent of user when user does not exert force on hook, and opening whose edges include projections for supporting hook when user exerts force to control descent |
ITRM20090515A1 (en) * | 2009-10-08 | 2011-04-09 | Paolo Caruso | SAFETY DEVICE PREFERABLY USED IN THE CLIMBING ACTIVITIES IN THE MOUNTAINS |
WO2014086067A1 (en) * | 2012-12-05 | 2014-06-12 | He Shaodun | Hanger rope winding method and hanger using same |
Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2564736A1 (en) * | 1984-05-25 | 1985-11-29 | Petzl Fernand | Descender (abseil device) on a single or double rope for mountaineering or speleology |
US4678059A (en) * | 1986-05-27 | 1987-07-07 | Bowker Thomas K | Rope descending device |
FR2631325A1 (en) * | 1988-05-16 | 1989-11-17 | Rossignol Pascal | Manual device for braking and blocking on a rope (descender), allowing the controlled descent of an individual or of a load with the aid of a single or double rope |
-
1993
- 1993-06-14 FR FR9307231A patent/FR2706314B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2564736A1 (en) * | 1984-05-25 | 1985-11-29 | Petzl Fernand | Descender (abseil device) on a single or double rope for mountaineering or speleology |
US4678059A (en) * | 1986-05-27 | 1987-07-07 | Bowker Thomas K | Rope descending device |
FR2631325A1 (en) * | 1988-05-16 | 1989-11-17 | Rossignol Pascal | Manual device for braking and blocking on a rope (descender), allowing the controlled descent of an individual or of a load with the aid of a single or double rope |
Cited By (11)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0734743A1 (en) * | 1995-03-27 | 1996-10-02 | Zedel | Energy absorbing device associated with a safety line |
FR2732226A1 (en) * | 1995-03-27 | 1996-10-04 | Zedel | ENERGY ABSORPTION COMPONENT ASSOCIATED WITH A LENGTH OF INSURANCE |
US5947229A (en) * | 1995-03-27 | 1999-09-07 | Zedel | Energy absorbing device for use with a safety lanyard and system including the device |
DE10027559A1 (en) * | 2000-06-02 | 2001-12-13 | Thomas Reinhardt | Brake for climbing ropes of synthetic fibers has a housing with passage openings for the rope loops and a moving bar to act on them in a self-clamping and secure action |
US6607058B2 (en) | 2000-06-02 | 2003-08-19 | Tre-Erwin Angerbauer-Roland Bross-Thomas Reinhardt Gesellschaft Burgerlichen Rechts | Rope brake |
FR2832068A1 (en) * | 2001-11-14 | 2003-05-16 | Contat Freres Ets | Method for obtaining mountaineering figure eight descender consists of deforming metal section portion to give it its final figure of eight shape |
EP1312391A1 (en) * | 2001-11-14 | 2003-05-21 | Etablissements Contat Freres | Method for obtaining an "eight descender" for mountaineering and an "eight descender" obtained thereby |
FR2836635A1 (en) * | 2002-03-01 | 2003-09-05 | Jean Paul Frechin | Cord brake for mountaineering and climbing has block with rectangular cut out having internal braking faces |
FR2889814A1 (en) * | 2005-08-18 | 2007-02-23 | Argenton Pierre | Mountain climbing assistance device for rappelling, has snap hook blocking descent of user when user does not exert force on hook, and opening whose edges include projections for supporting hook when user exerts force to control descent |
ITRM20090515A1 (en) * | 2009-10-08 | 2011-04-09 | Paolo Caruso | SAFETY DEVICE PREFERABLY USED IN THE CLIMBING ACTIVITIES IN THE MOUNTAINS |
WO2014086067A1 (en) * | 2012-12-05 | 2014-06-12 | He Shaodun | Hanger rope winding method and hanger using same |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR2706314B1 (en) | 1995-09-01 |
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