FR2533500A1 - Flat textile product having improved quality effects. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a flat textile product having improved quality effects. On this flat textile product in the form of knitwear having a thread structure, is disposed a layer of fibres which are fixed by needling in such a manner as to insert fibres over the whole thickness of the thread structure using felting needles in such a manner as to form in the region of one or both of the surfaces of the structure a crêpe constituted by loops or by the split ends of projecting fibres supplying the desired improved quality effect, similar to downy crêpe or voile. Application especially to the production of textile cloths for clothing and furniture covering and as a product imitating suede or chamois leather.

Description

The invention relates to independent textile flat products in the form of yarn structures which are preferably made from 100% synthetic silk, para. example from smooth and / or textured synthetic silk according to known methods of forming flat sheets and having a surface resembling a crepe or fluffy veil, by means of the application of high quality fibrous materials or secondary fibrous materials and the setting work of processes to a great extent mechanical ennobling, and present such a modification of the structure of the silk fibers, that after the ennobling process one obtains surfaces of use, initially uniform, having characteristics of improved use and which are cut to length according to the respective purpose of use and have a characteristic configuration, that is to say that these flat products are suitable for example in one case for clothing when they have the character of a sheet, in another case for a decorative covering of furniture, when they have the character of a spun of fibers or else for their use in tan t imitation buckskin or chamois
According to patent applications filed in
German Democratic Republic under the numbers 153502 and 158259, flat products are known which consist of synthetic bristles and which have on their: upper face a crepe in the form of fibers which is constituted by broken ends and / or loops of silk formed by multiple needling using felting needles.

 The drawbacks of the products described reside in any case in the negative, unmodified characteristic "of the poor transfer of moisture, of the gloss and of the high electrostatic charge of synthetic bristles.

These characteristics are currently to be reduced or eliminated by means of the appropriate fibrous substances insert in the form of threads.

 According to the patent filed in the German Democratic Republic under number 150770, there is known a needled felt formed from chemical fibrous substances for heated mangles as well as for felt products and which is formed by a support element formed by a knitted layers of sewn threads. A veil of fibers is sewn on both sides of the support element in such a way that the right side is sewn more intensely on the left side. There can be several layers of sewn mesh. The support element cannot be used as an independent flat product and it is subjected to a filling of material by inserting the sheet formed of fibers and it is consolidated so that it resists to the constraints of technical use, but it is not subject to further refinement and is not suitable for clothing or for upholstery of furniture.

 The object of the invention is to modify and subsequently finish up independent flat textile products produced in the form of fiber structures formed by smooth or textured bristles or by a mixture of these, thanks to multiple needling with a formed material. native or synthetic fibers in the internal structure and on the surface of the product, by displacement of elements of bristles and dS fibers so that in connection with specific combinations of materials, adjustments. sewing and subsequent finishing operations, finished products are obtained which are adjusted according to the specific purposes of use and therefore have the characteristic appearance and properties of the flat textile product formed from yarns of fibers, preferably yarns of native fibers Oll of products imitating deerskin or chamois.

The idea of the present invention is based on the objective of producing a flat textile product in the form of a fiber structure preferably a knitted fabric or a knitted fabric formed of smooth or textured bristles, suitable for clothing or furniture coverings, by means of the application of ennobled fibers selected according to the goal to be obtained, for example plies of fibers comprising a high percentage of natural fibers, or else a high percentage of microfibers, so that - thanks to a multiple needling carried out on one side or on both sides of the product, a mixture of capillary elements of bristles originating from the yarn structure and of fibrous components originating from the specific sheet introduced of fibrous material is obtained, to form a d effect finishing, a fluffy rump or veil on at least one surface of the yarn structure
The components of the mixture are voluntarily combined and the settings from the point of view of the sewing technique and the finishing processes are adjusted to the purpose of use so as to obtain optimum properties of use.

 This problem is solved in accordance with the invention thanks to the fact that in a known multi-multiple needling device, needling is carried out on one or both sides of a flat textile product is in the form of a structure or '' a system of threads formed by smooth or textured bristles, preferably a knitted fabric or a knitted fabric or a fabric with application of plies of fibrous material arranged or without order, for example plies of wool or native fibrous material or secondary raw material, or synthetic fibrous materials, poorly spinnable, preferably two-component fibrous materials formed of fibrils arranged in a matrix or divided fibrous materials, on the upper face and / or the underside of the flat product. Due to its intense needling performed with needle-nosed needles due to felting, a flat textile product is obtained in which the fibers of the applied ply are intimately linked to the flat product f shaped by synthetic silk and penetrate inside the flat product, a large number of the silk capillaries being joined in the form of loops or in the form of ends broken with fibers of the web, according to the direction of prick felting needle tips on the surface of the synthetic flat product. The ply of fibrous material remains in the form of a residual ply on the opposite surface. In this way, the synthetic flat product is obtained, apart from the mixture of the fibrous material inside this product, an upper face and / or a crepe-like underside which is made up of a mixture of synthetic silk loops and broken silk hoppers - as well as loops and broken ends of fibers.

 In addition to the penetration of fibers of the ply into the synthetic silk of the flat product, one obtains, depending on the application of the ply on one side or on both sides of the product during a needling effect on one side or on both sides, a flat textile product with a surface resembling a crepe or fluffy veil.

 Thanks to a deliberate choice of binding, silk or fibrous material (especially in relation to physical characteristics from the textile point of view) and thanks to a different coloring of the fibrous materials, in conjunction with a variable depth of the stitches. pi qre, a variable density of stitches, a variable needle shape, and a variable guide of the needle board, we obtain drawing effects related to the height, the limitation and the color of the pancake, and different properties optical and use characteristics, the suitability for draping flat textile products to be obtained for clothing.

 In accordance with the invention, a system of threads is used formed by a synthetic silk, for example by a two-component silk comprising fibrils of a fineness of less than 1 denier and arranged in a matrix, and / or by silks of textured polyester with a fineness of less than 15 denier by capillary or else with a two-component silk comprising fibrils with a fineness of less than 1 denier arranged in a matrix and / or with fibrous polyester materials which can greatly shrink, or by a two-component silk comprising fibrils with a fineness of less than 1 denier and arranged in a matrix and / or by a chemical silk. Preferably, there remains on the surface of the flat product a residual layer comprising fiber elements formed by bicomponent materials consisting of fibrils in the form of a matrix and / or divided fibrous materials which extend through the yarn system. At the level of 200 × 1500 bites per square centimeter of the notched needles of a known needle felting device, silk capillaries and / or polyester fibrous materials which can shrink belonging to the thread system as well as threads belonging to the residual web extend in the direction of the needle stitches, through the thickness of the yarn system into a crepe.This crepe is located on the surface of the fiS system located opposite the residual web, and covers this whole area. The crepe therefore consists of a mixture of silk loops, broken ends of silk and fibers.

 The residual web located on one or both surfaces of the flat product is firmly connected to the underlying yarn system by fibers which originate from the residual web and extend inside the yarn system, and increase the stability from the surface especially when fibrils released from the matrix are present in the yarn system. The residual web is in direct contact with the yarn system, on one side or on both sides of the latter.

 Broken ends and displaced loops, which are formed by very elastic capillaries or which can greatly shrink and belonging to the yarn system are shorter than in the pancake compared to other broken ends and other silk loops, for the same needle stitch depth.

Due to desired binding effects, different depths of pricking of individual needles with beak or hook, and a disposition, corresponding to drawings, of needle boards having different shapes, it is possible to obtain effects of '' protruding and recessed elements, which imitate suede skin or grainy synthetic chamois
Flat products which have undergone additional processing according to known methods contain divided or cleaved combined fibers and / or fibrils which are released from the matrix.

 Impregnation with a known polyurethane solution gives the flat product a leather-like appearance.

Examples of realization
The invention will be illustrated below by referring to embodiments. The flat product having a surface similar to a crepe or fluffy veil may be characterized in the manner indicated below.

1. Rib knit of arand diameter
In a knitted fabric made with a circular Jacquard loom of large diameter, and comprising a twill on the back, having a starting weight equal to approximately 190 g / m2, made of polyester silk, having a false twist texture, having a fineness of 11 tex and at least 30 capillaries, a sheet of two-component fibers comprising polyester fibrils of a fineness of less than 1 denier, arranged in a matrix, and having a mass, is inserted, by means of multiple needling. per unit area of approximately 252 g / m2, from the back of the flat product using a maximum of 500 stitches with an introduction partially along the diametrical direction of puncture of the notched needles, so as to obtain only on the back a residual layer corresponding to approximately 5-10% of the initial mass per unit area of the layer. The other elements of the two-component fibers are integrated into the yarn system and protrude over 40 X in the form of a crepe or fluffy veil on the outside, from the opposite surface. arand diameter
In a knitted fabric made with a circular Jacquard ribbing loom of large diameter - with multiple falls comprising a twill on the back and a starting weight per unit 2 surface tee equal to approximately 205 g / m2, made with polyester silk, having a texturing in false twist, a fineness of 16.7 tex with 32 capillaries, was inserted, Qu by means of multiple needling, a cardboard of short wool fibers having a mass per unit area of approximately 25 g / m2, from the back of the flat product with about 150 stitches for the needles of the notches so that only one residual ply corresponding to 10-20 X of the initial mass per unit area of the ply was present on the back.

The other elements of the wool fibers are integrated into this yarn system and protrude more than 40 X, in the form of a crepe or fluffy veil, from the opposite surface, on the outside. The fluffy crepe or veil is made up of a mixture of wool and polyester silk elements.

 The surface has a mass per unit area of approximately 267 g / m2 and is treated according to known methods.

3. Rib knit of arand diameter
In a knit produced using a light cir Jacquard loom with large diameter - multiple scraps - and having a starting weight per unit area of approximately 190 g / m2 and a twill on the back and made of silk of polyester, with a false twist texturing, a fineness of 11 tex, and 30 capillaries, there has been inserted from the top and from the bottom, according to a multiple needling, a cardboard of short wool fibers having a mas
2 se per unit area of approximately 25 g / m2, starting from the ver- so of the flat product, with approximately 200 stitches of needles with notches, so that only a residual tablecloth remains on the front corresponding to approximately 10-15% of the initial mass per unit area of the sheet. The other components of the wool fibers are inserted into the yarn system and partially pulled out of the yarn system so that more than 30 S protrude forming a pancake on the opposite surface, namely the outer face. Aldine fibers belonging to the pancake were moved by the needles in the opposite direction of puncture on the face carrying the residual web and passed through the latter. On both surfaces of the flat product there is a felt present as a mixture of wool components and polyester silk components.

 The surface has a weight per unit area of approximately 215 g / m2 and is further processed according to known methods.

Claims (7)

1. Flat textile product having ennobling effects similar to crepe or fluffy veil preferably for clothing or upholstery of furniture or decorative elements in the form of a structure of threads, for example a fabric, a knitting, a knitted fabric preferably consisting of smooth or textured synthetic silk threads having identical or different characteristic properties of elasticity, with a displacement of the silk capillaries from the threads in the direction of pricking of notched needles known felting, across the entire thickness of the flat product with a felt formed of broken ends and / or loops of the different silk capillaries on the surface of the flat product, on one or both sides of this last, characterized in that on one or both surfaces of the yarn structure there is a residual sheet formed of native fibers, preferably wool or cotton or mixtures of materials first secondary, or synthetic fibers, preferably two-component fibers formed of fibrils arranged in a matrix, while fibers, which are still partially anchored in this residual layer of fibers, extend as said displaced part capillaries, preferably through the total thickness of the yarn structure, in the direction of pricking of felting needles into the felt, the silk elements forming part of the fiBgétant structure inserted during this displacement of such so that the pancake is constituted, respectively in the direction of pricking of the felting needles at the surface situated opposite the residual web, by a mixture of fiber elements forming part of the residual web and loops and / or broken ends of displaced silk capillaries, so that both in the flat product and in the pancake at the surface, there is a mixture of elements capillaries of synthetic silk and native fibrous materials or synthetic fibers having a high percentage of microfibrils and that there exists in the pancake, on the height of pricking of the felting needles, a mixture of the ends and loops of silk / fibrous materials.  2. Flat textile product having finishing effects similar to a pancake according to claim 1, characterized in that the residual layers of native fibrous materials are mixtures of fibrous material whose fiber lengths have a predominantly wide dispersion.  3. Flat textile product-having finishing effects similar to a pancake according to claim 1, characterized in that synthetic threads are in particular a two-component silk comprising fibrils arranged in a matrix and / or textured polyester bristles of a fineness greater than 15 denier per capillary or a two-component silk comprising fibrils of a fineness greater than 1 denier arranged in a matrix and / or fibrous polyester materials which can greatly shrink or a two-component silk comprising fibrils arranged in a matrix and / or a highly elastic chemical silk, and only fibers forming part of a residual web of synthetic fibers, preferably a residual web of two-component fibrous materials formed of fibrils arranged in a matrix or of divided fibrous material, are located at a surface of the flat product and extend with the preponderant percentage of fibers as well as with silk capillaries and / or polyester fibrous materials which can shrink, in the form of a mixture of fibers and silk capillaries through the thickness of the yarn system, at the level of 200., .1500 stitches per cm2 of felting notched needles, in the stitching direction, into the pancake which is connected to the opposite surface of the yarn system, so as to cover this surface, in the form of a mixture silk loops, broken ends of silk, fibrils and threads.  4. Flat textile product having ennobling effects similar to a pancake according to claims 1 and 3 taken as a whole, characterized in that the lengths of the elements of the mixture formed from broken hoppers of silk, silk loops and fibers in the pancake has a very variable distribution.  5. Flat textile product having ennobling effects similar to a pancake according to claims 1, 3 and 4 taken as a whole, characterized in that the mass per unit area in the pancake is greater than the mass per unit area in the residual water table.  6. flat textile prdduit presenting ennobling effects similar to a pancake according to claims 1, 3, 4 and 5, -characterized in that the flat products are constituted by fibrous substances having a fineness of less than 15 deniers per capillary of silk and less than 1 denier per microfibrill and are suitable for use as products imitating deerskin or chamois.  7. flat textile product having finishing effects similar to the pancake according to claims 1 to 6 taken as a whole, characterized in that a pancake is formed on one of the surfaces or on the two surfaces of the flat product.