ES2283522T3 - DOUBLE FACE THREE DIMENSIONAL FACE. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a three-dimensional double-face fabric consisting of two outer layers (A, B), spaced apart and linked together by binder yarns (F), which extend substantially perpendicular to the surfaces opposite the two layers (A, B). The invention is characterised in that in some of the zones of the fabric, the binder yarns are of at least two different types, having different contraction and shrinking characteristics, said two types of binder yarns working complementarily so that they form zones with different thickness providing the fabric with a three-dimensional effect.

Description

Three-dimensional double sided fabric.

Technical field

The present invention relates to a new type double-sided, three-dimensional fabric, essentially constituted by two outer layers formed by a fabric or knitwear, separated from each other and joined together by threads of ligation, knitting or knitting with the aforementioned layers, which extend substantially perpendicular to surfaces facing the two layers and that are attached to the latter without Appear on the outer faces.

Prior techniques

Such double-sided fabrics are well known in the textile industry field and have been used at the origin to make velvet fabrics by cutting the threads of ligation in the middle part of the fabric or knitwear three-dimensional so realized.

It has been proposed on the other hand, for some decades, use these three-dimensional structures, which they therefore have the characteristic of being very thick with regarding flat fabrics or knitwear to make some articles that have very good insulation characteristics thermal, comfort, compressibility and return after compression ...., whose two faces can be either constituted by similar threads or threads that have characteristics different.

For indicative purposes, it has been proposed for example use said double-sided fabrics in the field of clothing With a thermal insulation purpose to improve comfort. In said case, it is possible to make some articles of which one of the faces is based on hydrophilic threads and on which the other side is constituted by hydrophobic fibers.

These three-dimensional materials are also widely used to constitute textile reinforcements of composite materials. Document DE 4140826A describes for example a double-sided fabric comprising a relief obtained by ligation separation variation on a specific loom.

In general, you can say that all these three-dimensional double-sided fabrics are based on a structure of the type used to make velvets of double piece whose ligature threads are not cut contrary to velvet technology.

In the set of proposals made up to the present, both as regards the articles three-dimensional fabrics such as those that are knitted, being able to last also classified in two families, namely those obtained by the warp technique and those obtained by means of circular or rectilinear looms with double collected meshes fontura, the products obtained generally have a thickness constant and uniform, except in particular cases where it uses specific machines as in the DE document 4140826A.

Exhibition of the invention

Now, it has been found, and that is what constitutes the object of the present invention, a new type of three-dimensional, woven or knitted textile structure, obtained using the classic velvet techniques of double piece, and that is used as is without trimming the threads of ligation between the two external textile structures that, contrary to the previous articles, they present some areas of different thickness giving the article a relief effect. From according to the invention, in certain areas of the fabric, the threads of ligation are of at least two different types, which possess different contraction or retraction capabilities, working these two types of ligature threads in a complementary way to so that they form zones of different thicknesses that impart to The fabric a relief effect.

For contraction or retraction capabilities, it is understood that the threads have an elasticity that makes their length decrease when subjected to a lower tension, or also that they are susceptible to narrow when subjected to a heat treatment for example. These retraction capabilities or contraction can be expressed either during operations of realization of the fabric itself, or also when further treatment takes place.

A possibility of obtaining structures three-dimensional that have relief effects, it turns out:

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of the specific choice of knitting or knitting material used for the realization of the structure;

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of the selection of threads that enter into the constitution of knitted fabrics or fabrics surface and ligation threads

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in the choice of armor used to make the external faces as well as the areas of ligature.

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With reference to the type of material, will use, in what concerns the fabric, looms that allow make double fabrics, that is to say that they comprise at least two bottom warps for the realization of woven faces external, and two warps of ligature threads sent by a Jacquard machine.

As regards knitting, they will be used preferably knitted knitting machines, of double fontura, and more particularly circular looms that allow a selection Jacquard on one of the fonturas.

It is also possible to use machines of warp knitting, and more particularly a loom Rachel with two needle sizes, comprising at least four pin bars allowing the two outer bars (previous and later) perform the surface knitwear, allowing the two intermediate bars to make the threads of ligation from different materials, being the lining of these bars made available, in such a way that in certain zones, different threads can work in a way complementary.

With reference to the selection of threads that enter into the constitution of the article according to the invention, it will be used, for background threads intended to form the layers (knitted or knitted) surface, of the same nature or of different nature, and, as far as the threads of ligature are concerned at least two types of threads that have capacities of different contraction or retraction.

With reference to work armor, both in woven articles as in those obtained on a loom of knitting warp or collected meshes, the relief effect is gets performing certain areas of the structure by doing work in a complementary way the two types of ligature threads of different nature

In the continuation of the description, the invention will be described more particularly for the realization of a knitted three-dimensional textile structure, made in the mesh looms collected in double size, of which less one is equipped with a system for selecting the needles

In said embodiment:

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the outer layers of the genus Three-dimensional knit are made up of two Jersey genres (plain or Jacquard) made from identical threads or different and;

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these two outer layers are linked together by a few rows of ligature threads that work in both sizes, forming meshes or simply being collected by needles and;

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some rows of knitwear they comprise the combination of two types of ligature threads that they have different retraction or contraction characteristics from each other, and they work in this row according to a selection complementary needles.

Two combinations of threads of different nature to make a product according to the invention.

In the first combination, the relief effect it is obtained directly when knitting takes place, without complementary treatment, being the ligation thread that allows obtain the contraction consisting of an elastic, knitted yarn under tension, and the second ligature thread being as for itself same constituted by a conventional, synthetic or natural.

In that case, by way of indication, you can by example use as a thread a thread comprising a soul of elastane covered by a polyester or polyamide thread, and as non-extendable thread a polyester or polyamide monofilament or a multifilament polyester or polyamide. Thus, the contraction is obtained directly on the lowering of the loom by the retraction of the thread coated knitted under tension.

According to the second embodiment, the relief is obtained using threads that have some differential contraction characteristics under the action of a heat treatment.

In that case, you can for example use a combination polyester thread or fake textured polyamide torsion not fixed and polyester or polyamide thread textured by false torsion set.

It can also be used, particularly when it is desired to obtain an article that has a very good resistance on crushing, a polyester or polyamide thread textured by false torsion not fixed (foam wire) and as another type of thread ligation, a polyester thread or monofilament polyamide.

You can also use plain threads that they have a high contraction power, of the order of 30% or more.

In the continuation of the description, the invention will be described for the realization of a structure three-dimensional constituted by a bilayer knitted genre made on a knitting loom of double-drawn meshes, of those that at least one fonture is equipped with a system of Needle selection.

It will also be described using for the realization of said knitting a circular loom, multibajada, which includes some needles at the same time on the plate and in the cylinder, needles positioned according to dimension arrangement one a one, the selection of the needles being made in the cylinder by a Jacquard or mechanical system.

It is clear that this is not limiting and that similar items could be made on a loom double-sized rectilinear also equipped with a system of Needle selection.

The invention and the advantages it brings are however they will show more clearly better thanks to the embodiments given below for indicative purposes But not limiting.

Brief description of the drawings

The annexed schemes illustrate the way in which has made the product according to the invention.

In these schemes:

- Figure 1 illustrates the general structure of a three-dimensional double-sided structure according to the prior art, illustrating figure 2 the general structure of a double-sided knitwear of the prior art.

- Figures 3a, 3b, 3c illustrate the cycle of base of realization of a three-dimensional knitted structure of according to the invention which presents, after realization, about relief effects obtained by gender thickness variation knitted, illustrating figure 3 schematically in perspective, a knitwear made entirely on the basis of the armor illustrated in figures 3a, 3b, 3c,

- Figures 4a to 4f illustrate the cycle of knitting of a three-dimensional structure according to the invention, representing the diagrams on the left the positioning of the external faces and the ligation threads during the knitting operation, and the diagrams located at the right illustrating the final structure after contraction or retraction of one of the two ligation threads, and that allows obtain relief and hollow effects formed in a alternation of knitted areas that have the shape of small juxtaposed squares, such as those illustrated in the figure 5;

- Figure 6 illustrates a base cycle of a Embossed knitwear made in accordance with the invention of which one of the faces also has a Jacquard effect;

- Figure 7 is a schematic view simplified of a knitwear according to a fourth example of following embodiment;

- Figure 8 represents the armor scheme used to make the knitwear of figure 7;

- Figure 9 represents the scheme of rewind used to make the knitwear of the figure 7;

- Figure 10 is a schematic view simplified of a knitwear obtained according to a fifth exemplary embodiment;

- Figure 11 represents the armor scheme used to make the knitwear of figure 10;

- Figure 12 represents the scheme of rewind used to make the knitwear of the figure 10;

- Figure 13 is a table illustrating the armor scheme that allows the fabric described to be obtained by fabric in the sixth embodiment;

- Figures 14 and 15 are sectional views in the direction of the warp threads of the fabric made of according to an armor scheme of figure 13, and represented respectively before and after heat treatment.

Way of carrying out the invention

Figure 1 illustrates as mentioned formerly the general structure of a bilayer textile three-dimensional made according to the technique of realization of double piece velvet that is therefore composed of two sides external (A, B), consisting of a knitted fabric or knitwear, separated and joined together by woven ligation threads or knitted with said faces (A).

Figure 2 illustrates as to itself the general structure of a double-sided knitwear made in a double font loom, and therefore comprising a face (A) made on the plate and forming a Jersey, also forming the face (B) made from an identical or different thread than the one the face (A) constitutes a Jersey or cylinder, these two being faces linked to each other by a thread called ligature that works according to a dimension armor one and one, said ligation thread being masked by the threads that form the surface jerseys.

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A double fabric of this type can for example be carried out in accordance with the teachings of the document FR-A-2 344 659, whose content is integrated into this application as necessary.

According to the invention, it is carried out in a manner comparable to the teachings of this document, a knitwear double, three-dimensional, but at least some areas they form motifs obtained by a decrease in thickness communicated by the length of the tie wire flanges that join the two knitted outer faces.

To do this, in the areas where you want to perform said effects, the manner illustrated in figures 3a to 3c.

In these areas, a base armor is used made on three successive descents.

It will be done therefore at the first descent (figure 3a), a Jersey on the plate, knitted simultaneously with a first ligature thread (F1) that on the one hand, will form Jersey to plate level, and, on the other hand, will work on a selection of needles at the level of the cylinder, loading or mesh with said needles In the given example, the first ligature thread (F1) loads on an alternation of five needles in the cylinder.

In the next descent (figure 3b), it will be done also a Jersey on the plate associated with a second thread of ligature (F2) which, in turn, will also form Jersey and load or will mesh on the five needles that have not worked on the descent preceding.

Finally, in the third descent (figure 3c) you Make a jersey at the cylinder level.

Proceeding in this way, you get a gender three-dimensional point whose face (A) (side of the plate) is twice denser than the face (B) of the cylinder side.

Using ligature threads (F1) and (F2) that have different heat shrink characteristics each other, if the entire length of the knitwear is made repeating the armor as shown in figures 3a to 3c, after heat treatment and finishing, a article such as the one outlined in figure 3 presenting a alternation of parallel bands of different thickness.

It is also possible, acting on the cycle of knitting, for example performing, as shown in the figure 4, three successive cycles performed according to figure 2 followed by three cycles in which the positioning of the threads ligation (F1, F2) is inverted, get, after treatment thermal shrinkage, displaced areas of different thickness which lead to obtaining a grid effect constituted by hollow areas with respect to the zones adjacent.

On the other hand, it is possible to obtain some effects located making the areas of ligature by means of two threads complementary only to some rows of knitwear separated from each other by areas where ligation is obtained, in each row, by means of a single and same type of thread.

Other types of three-dimensional knitwear according to the invention can be performed in a manner different, as shown in particular from figure 6.

In said embodiment, a double fontura circular loom whose cylinder allows a Jacquard type selection.

A loom of this type is equipped so that, in each drop, three threads are distributed simultaneously to the needles of the plate and of the cylinder, namely the thread intended to form the Jersey on the plate, the one destined to form the Jersey on the cylinder and this according to a Jacquard selection, and the bonding thread that unites the two knitted faces, said ligation thread forming a Jersey on the plate and working according to a selection Jacquard in the cylinder.

The next download is done in a similar way forming Jersey to the plate, Jersey in the cylinder over the needles who have not worked on the previous descent, and ligation for a part, on all the needles of the plate and on the other hand, on the needles that form the Jersey in the cylinder.

In that case, you get a knitwear that it has a smooth face on the plate and that, at the level of the cylinder, presents a few rows of Jacquard Jersey.

As before, acting on the differential contraction possibilities between the two threads of ligation, it is possible to obtain areas of smaller thickness, between which areas that form relief at the level of the ligature threads that have the highest percentage of contraction or retraction.

It should be noted that this embodiment, to Jersey level produced in the cylinder, it is in the presence of a Jacquard structure, working the thread on a selection of needles and then floating on a certain number of needles on which the Jacquard complement is made down next.

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Example one

Knitwear is made according to the invention in a circular knitting loom, double font, which It includes an electronic selection system at the needle level of the cylinder.

A loom of this type presents the following features:

? diameter: 30 inches (76.2 cm) ? hound: 18 (18 needles in 25.4 mm) ? number of downs: 36 ? total number of needles on the plate and in the cylinder: 3264 ? separation (E) between the periphery of the plate and the edge superior of cylinder: 8 mm

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To perform the knitwear according to the invention, the following threads are used:

Plate sweater: FTF 167 textured polyester thread dtex

Cylinder sweater: FTF textured polyester thread 220 dtex

Ligature threads F1: textured polyester thread FTF vaporized 167 dtex

F2 ligation threads used in areas where it is desired to obtain a contraction effect: polyester thread FTF textured not fixed, 165 dtex.

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This knitwear is made in your whole according to the armor as illustrated in the figure 2.

The length of thread supplied per turn of the loom is 535 centimeters for the threads that form the Jersey in the plate and 608 centimeters for the Jersey in the cylinder. For him on the contrary, for the ligature threads being these knitted in Jacquard, the flow rate is not measured.

Feeding the threads for the Jersey in the plate and cylinder is made by means of suppliers positive.

For ligature threads, taking into account the fact that they work according to Jacquard armor, the feeding is done through Jacquard providers (type IRO).

At the lowering of the loom, a genre of point whose outer faces are constituted by two structures Jersey joined together by the threads of ligature.

After completion, the raw tissue is stained in pieces at 130ºC.

Under the action of heat, a shrinkage of polyester-based ligation threads (F2) textured FT that causes a decrease in fabric thickness in the areas where these ligature threads are found.

The finished fabric weighs 380 g / m2 and has a 160 cm width

It has parallel sides whose thickness varies between 4 mm in the zones with the ligature thread and 2 mm in the zones with the ligature thread F2.

Example 2

Example 1 is repeated except that the knitted according to the armor illustrated by figure 4, that is to say an alternation of three knitting cycles is performed by inverting the selection of needles on which ligation is performed of the threads that have different contractions.

It is obtained, after heat treatment, a knitwear that has some relief effects in the form of small squares, whose thickness varies between 4 mm for the most areas thick and 1 mm for hollow areas.

Example 3

On a circular knitting loom, equipped also with a Jacquard selection in the cylinder, a article according to the invention from the same types of threads than in examples 2 above, if not at the level of cylinder, a Jacquard sweater is made for the aspect face. This knitwear is made according to a Jacquard armor such as illustrated in figure 6.

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Two ligature threads are used that have different characteristics, said ligation threads being knitted in Jersey and on the plate and on the selection of cylinder needles

The distribution of the thread to the needles in each lowering, is done by means of three feeders or a single feeder comprising three conduits for guiding the threads. The collected and despondent are regulated to obtain a distribution of the threads according to the needles of the cylinder and the plate in question.

Example 4

Other knitting technologies, in particular knitted by warp, allow to obtain some fabrics according to the invention. Thus, a knitwear that presents the appearance schematically illustrated in figure 7 can be obtained using a knitting loom Rachel type. An example of armor scheme used is illustrated in figure 8 of schematic form, using six layers of different threads.

Thus, in detail, it has represented below a table in which, for each of the layers of threads used B1 and B6, it has been identified:

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in a first column, the armor scheme, correspondingly conventional to the displacement of the threads with respect to the bars with pins, indicating the unit sequence, which should eventually be reproduced successively;

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in a second column, the type of thread used; Y

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in a third column, the thread flow in groups per rack.

one

For this particular example, the loom Rachel used works at a speed of 900 strokes / minute, corresponding to a production of 20 m / h. The distance between needles is 2.5 mm and the knitwear obtained has twenty meshes per centimeter and a weight of 280 g / m2.

Example 5

Another example of armor scheme used in the same knitting loom Rachel is illustrated in figure 11 schematically, using 6 layers of different threads.

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The following table is analogous to the table given in Example 5

2

In the illustrated example, the loom used It works in the same way as for example 5.

Example 6

As already mentioned, the invention can also be made according to a warp weave technology and plot. An example of this type is illustrated in Figures 13 a fifteen.

Thus, Figure 13 illustrates the armor scheme used for a particular example, using six threads of different warp, in a double layer loom without cut by saber. A loom of this type comprises 96 threads in warp centimeter in both layers. The fabric obtained has 26 threads of plot per centimeter.

In the illustrated example, the warp threads designated with the numbers 1, 2, 4 and 5 are polyester threads false twist fixed comprising two strands of 167 dtex and 48 filaments The two ligature threads are different threads. He first ligature thread, namely warp thread # 3, is a 115 dtex monofilament plain polyester thread. The second thread warp, namely warp thread # 6, is a thread of fake twist polyester 167 dtex and 48 filaments. Weft threads used are identical to warp threads 1, 2, 4 and 5.

After weaving, it is obtained as is illustrated in figure 14, a fabric comprising two joined faces by the two different ligature warp threads, namely the warp thread No. 3 and warp thread No. 6.

After heat treatment, and how to illustrated in figure 15, the warp thread # 6 being contracted more importantly than warp thread # 3, the fabric it comprises an area of smaller thickness at level in which the thread of Warp No. 6 performs the function of the ligature thread.

In the rest of the fabric, the warp thread No. 6 It is hidden inside the tissue so as not to form floating threads on the face of the fabric. It will therefore be preferred use the face illustrated on the right in figure 15 as face outer tissue.

Items produced in accordance with the procedure according to the invention can be used in numerous applications where you want to get some features of comfort, insulation, compressive strength, bearing at the same time some relief decorations and impossible gaps of Get with the prior techniques.

Obviously, the invention is not limited to the embodiments described above but covers all variants made in the same essentiality.

Claims (11)

1. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric consisting of two outer layers (A, B) separated from each other and joined together by ligation threads (F), which extend substantially perpendicularly to the facing surfaces of the two layers (A , B), characterized in that in some areas of the fabric, the ligation threads are of at least two different types that have different contraction or retraction capabilities, these two types of ligation threads working in a complementary manner so that they form zones of different thicknesses that give the fabric a relief effect. 2. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that it is constituted by a double-piece velvet whose ligation threads are not cut, the outer layers being constituted by two knitted fabrics or fabrics, of the same nature or nature different, linked together by ligation threads (F) constituted in certain areas of the fabric at least by two types of threads (F1, F2) that have different contraction or retraction capabilities, the relief effect obtained by performing these areas of the structure making the two types of ligature threads work in a complementary manner. 3. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it is woven. 4. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it is constituted by a warp knit fabric made more particularly on a Rachel loom with two needle sizes. 5. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it is constituted by a knitted mesh fabric. 6. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that the knitted fabric is made of a loom of double-drawn meshes, of which at least one is equipped with a needle selection system, and in which:

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the outer layers are consisting of two Jersey knitwear (plain or jacquard) made from identical or different threads;

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these two outer layers are joined together by a few rows of ligature threads that they work on the two sizes, forming meshes or being simply collected by needles and;

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some gender ranks of point comprise the combination of two types of ligature threads (F1, F2), which have retraction or contraction characteristics different from each other, and they work in this row according to a complementary needle selection.

7. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to one of claims 5 and 6, characterized in that the relief effect is obtained directly when knitting takes place, without complementary treatment, the ligation thread being able to obtain the contraction constituted by an elastic thread , knitted under tension, the second ligature thread being in turn constituted by a conventional, synthetic or natural thread. 8. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that the elastic thread is constituted by a thread comprising an elastane core covered by a polyester or polyamide thread, and as a non-extensible thread a polyester or polyamide monofilament or a polyester multifilament or polyamide, the contraction obtained directly at the lowering of the loom by the contraction of the knitted coated yarn under tension. 9. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the relief is obtained using threads that have differential contraction characteristics under the action of a heat treatment. 10. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that a combination of polyester or polyamide threads textured by false torsion not fixed and polyester or polyamide threads textured by false torsion fixed is used. 11. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that a combination of a polyester thread or polyamide textured by false torsion not fixed and a second ligature thread consisting of a polyester thread or monofilament polyamide is used.