DE60219599T2 - DOUBLE-SIDED THREE-DIMENSIONAL FABRIC - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a three-dimensional double-face fabric consisting of two outer layers (A, B), spaced apart and linked together by binder yarns (F), which extend substantially perpendicular to the surfaces opposite the two layers (A, B). The invention is characterised in that in some of the zones of the fabric, the binder yarns are of at least two different types, having different contraction and shrinking characteristics, said two types of binder yarns working complementarily so that they form zones with different thickness providing the fabric with a three-dimensional effect.

Description

technical area

The The present invention relates to a new type of three-dimensional two-sided fabric, consisting essentially of two outer, made consists of a fabric or a knitted fabric formed from each other spaced and interwoven with each other with the aforementioned sheet bodies or forged binding threads are connected, which are substantially perpendicular to the opposite surfaces extend the two sheets and are connected to them without appearing on the outer surfaces.

State of technology

Such Double faced fabrics are well known in the textile industry and were originally used for velvet or plush fabrics make the binding threads in the middle part of the three-dimensional fabric thus produced or cut the thus produced three-dimensional knitted fabric were.

It by the way already proposed for decades, such three-dimensional To use structures, which thus have the property in the relationship to be very thick to flat fabrics or knitwear to article produce very good thermal insulation properties, Comfort, compressibility and recovery after compression, etc., whose two sides are made of similar ones Threads or made of threads can exist with different properties.

To For information purposes, it has been proposed, for example double-sided fabrics in the clothing sector with the aim of thermal insulation use to improve the comfort. In such a Case it is possible Produce articles whose one side is built on hydrophilic threads, and the other is hydrophobic fibers.

These three-dimensional materials are also widely used to form textile reinforcements of composite materials. The document DE 4140826 A describes, for example, a double-faced fabric with a contouring achieved by altering the weave pitch on a particular machine.

As a general rule can be said that all these three-dimensional double-sided Substances as a basis have a structure of the kind that serves To make double velvets, their connecting threads in contrast to the technology of velvet fabrics are not cut.

In all the proposals made so far, both in terms of woven and knitted three-dimensional articles, the latter can also be divided into two categories, namely those produced by the warp knitting method and those used on double-textured, double-stitched knit circular or flat knitting machines or double needle bed, the resulting products generally have a constant and uniform thickness, with the exception of the particular cases where, as in the DE 4140826 A recourse to special machines.

Summary the invention

you has, however, and that is exactly the subject of the present Invention of a new type of woven or knitted three-dimensional textile structure found out with the conventional Process for producing double velvet or plush obtained is, and as it is without cutting the binding threads between the two outer textile Structures used in contrast to articles from the State of the art have different thickness areas, the give the article a profile effect. According to the invention are in In some areas of the fabric, the binding threads of at least two different ones Species possess different abilities, together or withdraw the two types of binding threads complement each other so work together to form areas of different thickness, which give the fabric a profile effect.

Among the ability to contract or retract, it is understood that the threads have elasticity which causes their length to decrease when subjected to low tension, or may contract or shrink when subjected to heat, for example be subjected to treatment. These abilities to contract or withdraw are expressed either in the actual processes of the substance itself or in a post-treatment.

• • aus der speziellen Wahl des Web- oder Strickmaterials, das zur Herstellung der Struktur verwendet wird;
• • aus der Auswahl der Fäden, die im Aufbau der Oberflächengewebe oder -gestricke und der Verbindungsfäden zum Tragen kommen;
• • aus der Wahl der Bindungsarten, die zur Herstellung der Außenflächen sowie der Verbindungsbereiche verwendet werden.

Such a possibility to obtain three-dimensional structures having profile effects results:

• • the specific choice of weaving or knitting material used to make the structure;
• • the selection of the threads used in the construction of the surface fabrics or knits and the connecting threads;
• • the choice of weave styles used to make the outer surfaces and joint areas.

What As regards the type of material, we become, as far as the weaving, looms use that allow the production of double tissues, i.e. at least two basic chains for the production of the outer web surfaces and two binding thread chains which are controlled by a jacquard machine.

What knitting, preferably knitting machines are used used with double fontur and in more specific circular knitting machines, in which a jacquard pattern appears on a font leaves.

It is also conceivable Kettmaschenknittmaschinen and in particular to use a Raschel machine with two needle beds that at least four guide rails, the two outer rails (the front and rear rail) make it possible the surface knits and the two middle rails make it possible to the binding threads made of different materials, the threading ever After disposition is done so that in certain areas different Threads work together complementarily can.

What the selection of threads relates, which come into play in the construction of the article according to the invention, be for the basic threads, which should form the (woven or knitted) surface layers, the same or differently made threads used, and what the binding threads is concerned, at least two types of threads are used, the different Skills have to pull together or retire.

What As far as the working ties are concerned, both the woven and the woven also on those articles that on a Kettmaschen- or Kulierstrickmaschine the profile effect achieved by certain Areas of the structure are made by making the two different obtained binder thread types can be incorporated in addition.

In In the following description, the invention will be more particularly for the preparation a knitted three-dimensional textile structure described made on double-contoured mesh knitting machines of which at least one is equipped with a needle selection system is.

• • bestehen die Außenlagen der dreidimensionalen Strickware aus zwei Jersey-Gewirken (Uni oder Jacquard), die aus gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Fäden hergestellt werden;
• • diese beiden Außenlagen werden mit Reihen von Verbindungsfäden, die auf den beiden Fonturen eingearbeitet werden, miteinander verbunden, wodurch Maschen entstehen, oder werden einfach von den Nadeln aufgenommen oder kuliert; und
• • bestimmte Gewirkreihen umfassen die Kombination zweier Arten von Verbindungsfäden, die voneinander verschiedene Fähigkeiten besitzen, sich zusammen- oder zurückzuziehen, und die in diese Reihe entsprechend einer sich ergänzenden Nadelauswahl eingearbeitet werden.

In such an embodiment:

• • the outer layers of the three-dimensional knitted fabric consist of two jersey knit fabrics (plain or jacquard) made of the same or different threads;
• These two outer layers are joined together with rows of connecting threads which are worked in on the two fonts, whereby stitches are formed, or are simply picked up or copied by the needles; and
• Certain knitted fabrics comprise the combination of two types of connecting yarns, which have mutually different abilities to contract or retract, and which are incorporated into this series in accordance with a complementary needle selection.

It can two combinations of differently designed threads for Production of a product according to the invention be used.

In The first combination is the profile effect directly when knitting without supplementary Machining achieved, whereby the binder thread allows the withdrawal to obtained from a tension-knit elastic Thread is formed, the second binding thread in turn from a synthetic or natural usual Thread exists.

Purely In such a case, for example, information can be considered elastic Thread a thread with a spandrel anchor using a Polyester or polyamide thread wound, and as non-stretchy Thread is a polyester or polyamide monofilament or a polyester or polyamide multifilament. In this way, the return is directly at the exit of the machine by pulling it back under tension knitted braided thread.

To the second embodiment the profile is obtained by using threads under the effect of a heat treatment have different shrinkage properties.

In In such a case one can, for example, a combination of not solid pre-twisted textured polyester or polyamide threads and use firmly pre-twisted textured polyester or polyamide threads.

In front especially if you want to get an article that has a very good compression strength has, one can also textured by non-fixed Vorverdrehung Polyester or polyamide yarn (high bulk yarn), and as the other Type of connecting thread a monofilament polyester or polyamide thread use.

you can also be stranded cords use that has a strong resilience in the Magnitude of 30% or more.

In In the following description, the invention for the production of a a two-ply knitted fabric formed three-dimensional structure described on a double knit fabric knitting machine Fontur is made, of which at least one fontur with a Needle selection system is equipped.

It is also described that the invention for the production of such Knitwear a circular knitting machine with multiple ribbed or -plates, the needles at the same time on the dial and on the cylinder comprises the needles according to a right / right binding arrangement are positioned, with the selection of the needles on the cylinder through a jacquard or a mechanical system takes place.

It It is obvious that this is not restrictive and that the corresponding Article also on a flat knitting machine with double fontur could be produced which is also equipped with a needle selection system.

The However, the invention and the resulting advantages will become thanks to the following example but not limiting embodiments understandable.

Summary Description of the drawings

The attached Schematic represent the manner in which the product of the invention will be produced.

1 illustrates the general structure of a double-sided three-dimensional structure according to the prior art, wherein 2 shows the general structure of a double-sided knitted fabric of the prior art;

the 3a . 3b . 3c illustrate the basic working cycle for the production of a three-dimensional knitted structure according to the invention, which after production has profile effects which are obtained by a change in the thickness of the knitted fabric formed, wherein 3 schematically and in perspective represents a knitted fabric, the total based on the in the 3a . 3b . 3c prepared bond was prepared;

the 4a to 4f illustrate the knitting cycle of a three-dimensional structure according to the invention, wherein the left-hand representations represent the positioning of the outer surfaces and the connecting threads during the knitting operation, and the right-hand representations represent the final structure after the retraction or return of one of the binding threads, thereby making it possible To obtain elevation and depression effects by alternating knitted areas having the shape of small juxtaposed squares as shown in Figs 5 are shown;

6 represents the basic cycle of a profiled knitted fabric according to the invention, of which one of the surfaces also has a jacquard effect;

7 Fig. 10 is a simplified schematic view of a knitted fabric obtained in the following fourth embodiment;

8th represents the bonding scheme used to make the knitwear from 7 is used;

9 illustrates the thread take-up scheme used to make the knitwear from 7 is used;

10 is a simplified schematic view of a knitted fabric obtained according to the fifth embodiment;

11 represents the bonding scheme used to make the knitwear from 10 is used;

12 illustrates the thread take-up scheme used to make the knitwear from 10 is used;

13 Fig. 12 is a table showing the bonding scheme that makes it possible to obtain the fabric described in the sixth embodiment by weaving;

the 14 and 15 are sectional views in the direction of the warp threads of the binding scheme of 12 produced fabric, which are shown before or after a heat treatment.

way to implement the invention

As stated above 1 the general structure of a three-dimensional two-ply textile fabric, which is made by the double-velvet manufacturing process and thus consists of two outer surfaces (A, B), consisting of a woven or a knitted fabric, which are spaced apart and connected to each other by binding threads, which are interwoven or entangled with the surfaces (A).

2 again, represents the general construction of a double-sided knitted fabric made on a double-contour machine, thus comprising a surface (A) made on the dial and forming a jersey weave, the surface (B) being made of a thread which is the same or different from that which forms the surface (A), and also forms a jersey or Prismabindung, wherein the two surfaces are interconnected with a so-called binding thread, which is incorporated after a right / right binding, said Binding thread is obscured by the threads forming the superficial jersey bonds.

One such double fabric may be used, for example, according to the teachings FR-A-2 344 659 whose contents, if necessary, are produced in the present Registration is included.

According to the invention a manner similar to the teachings of this document, a three-dimensional one Double knit fabric made, of which at least some areas pattern formed by reducing the thickness through the length the connecting webs of the binding threads is conveyed, which the two knitted outer surfaces with each other connect.

In addition one goes in those areas, where one wants to produce such effects, on by the 3a to 3c illustrated manner before.

In In these areas, a basic commitment will be used that will cover three successive fallboards is produced.

So first on the first case board ( 3a ) knits a jersey weave on the dial simultaneously with a first binding thread (F1) which on the one hand forms a jersey weave in the area of the dial and on the other hand is worked on a needle selection in the area of the cylinder by guiding it with these needles or forming stitches. In the example given, the first binding thread (F1) is fed into the cylinder via an alternation of five needles.

On the following case board ( 3b Also, a jersey weave is made on the dial (F2) associated with a dial, which in turn also forms a jersey weave and is fed to or forms stitches on the five pins which were at rest on the previous fallboard.

Finally, on the third case board ( 3c ) made a jersey binding in the area of the cylinder.

By doing one proceeds in this way a three-dimensional knitted fabric whose area (A) (dial side) twice denser than the area (B) (cylinder side).

By using the binding threads (F1) and (F2), which have different heat-shrinkage properties from each other, when the entire length of the knitted fabric is made to be the same as that in Figs 3a to 3c Repeated binding is repeated, after a heat and finishing, as in 3 schematically illustrated article having alternately thick parallel strips in alternation.

It is also possible to vary the knitting cycle, for example by looking at it 4 it can be seen, three accordingly 2 successive cycles, followed by three cycles in which the positions of the binding yarns (F1, F2) are reversed, to achieve differently thick offset areas after a heat-shrinking treatment resulting in a checkerboard pattern recessed relative to the adjacent areas Areas.

Incidentally, is it is possible to achieve localized effects by using the binding areas of the two complementary ones Threads only for certain Tissue rows are produced, separated from each other by areas are where the bond in each row by means of one and the same Yarn type is obtained.

Other inventive three-dimensional knitwear can be produced in a different way, as especially from 6 evident.

In such an embodiment is a circular knitting machine with double contour used, the cylinder it allows to make a selection of the Art Jacquard.

A Such machine is equipped to fit on every case board three threads distributed simultaneously on the needles of the dial and the cylinder be, namely the thread which is to form the jersey binding on the dial, the one who should form the jersey tie on the cylinder, and that after a jacquard selection, and the binder thread that holds the two knitted surfaces connects, with the binding thread a jersey binding on the dial forms and is incorporated according to a jacquard selection on the cylinder.

The following fall board will be on similar Fashioned by adding a jersey tie to the dial, a jersey tie on the needles that is on the previous fallboard at rest, and a bond on the one hand on all needles the dropboard and on the other hand is made on the needles, the form a jersey tie on the cylinder.

In In such a case, a knitted fabric is obtained, which on the dial has a uniform surface, and which has rows of jacquard jersey in the area of the cylinder.

By doing as above on the possibilities the different shrinkage between the two binding threads influence is taken, it is possible to get less thick areas, the areas being one Elevation at the binding threads form, the strongest Shrinkage or contraction amount.

It It is advisable to note that in this embodiment, As for the jersey weave produced on the cylinder, a jacquard structure encounters, with the thread incorporated on a selection of needles will and then over a certain number of needles on which the jacquard supplement is made, to the next Fall board floats.

example 1

Knitwear according to the invention is produced on a double-knit circular knitting machine, which comprises an electronic selection system for the needles of the cylinder.

Such a machine has the following characteristics: • Diameter: 30 inches (76.2 cm) • division: 18 (18 needles on 25.4 mm) • Number of drop boards: 36 • Total number of needles on dial and cylinder: 3264 • Distance (E) between the circumference of the dial and the top edge of the cylinder: 8 mm

To make the knit of the invention, the following threads are used:
Jersey dial: textured polyester yarn FTF 167 dtex
Jersey cylinder: textured polyester yarn FTF 220 dtex
Binding threads F1: Textured polyester yarn FTF, steam-treated, 167 dtex
Binding threads F2, which are used in areas where a contraction effect
to be achieved: textured polyester yarn FT, not fixed, 165 dtex.

This knitwear is entirely according to the as in 2 produced binding produced.

The Yarn or thread length, which is deducted per machine pass is 535 cm for the threads that the jersey at the Rippscheibe form, and 608 cm for the jersey on the cylinder. On the other hand, for the binding threads, there These are knitted in jacquard, the deduction is not measured.

The Supply of the threads for the Rippscheiben- and Zylinderjersey done by means of positive Fadenzubringer or positive feeders.

What the binding threads the supply takes place in view of the fact that it is after a jacquard bond can be incorporated by means of jacquard feeders (Type IRO).

At the Output of the machine receives to make a knitwear whose outer surfaces Two jersey structures exist, passing through the binding threads together are connected.

To During production, the raw fabric is dyed in one piece at 130 ° C.

Under Action of heat finds a shrinkage of the binding threads (F2) on the basis of textured polyester FT instead, causing a decrease in the thickness of the fabric in the areas where these binding threads are located.

The finished fabric weighs 380 g / m ² and has a width of 160 cm.

It has parallel ribs whose thickness in the areas with the Bind thread F1 between 4 mm, and 2 mm in the areas with the binding thread F2 varies.

Example 2

Example 1 is repeated, except that the knitting process according to the in 4 Bonding takes place, ie, that takes place in alternating three knitting cycles with the reverse selection of the needles on which the binding of the threads takes place, which have different recesses.

To a heat treatment a knitwear is obtained, the profile effects in the form of smaller Squares whose thickness is between 4 mm in the thickest areas and 1 mm varies at the recessed areas.

Example 3

On a circular knitting machine, which is also equipped with a jacquard selection on the cylinder, an article according to the invention is produced from the same types of yarn as in the preceding examples, except that a jacquard jersey for the gaze side is produced on the cylinder. This knitwear will be after a like in 6 illustrated jacquard bond produced.

It become two binding threads used with different properties, the binding threads on the Ribbed dial in jersey and knit on the needle selection of the cylinder become.

The Distribution of the thread on the needles of each fallboard is done with Help from three yarn guides or a single thread guide, the three channels to the leadership the threads includes. The chosing and discarding are regulated to a distribution according to the needles of the relevant cylinder and the relevant board to achieve.

Example 4

Other technical knitting methods, especially the warp knitting method, make it possible to obtain substances according to the invention. So can a knitwear, which the in 7 shown schematically, can be obtained by using a Raschel knitting machine is used. A binding scheme example is in 8th shown schematically, the six different scrims used.

• – in einer ersten Spalte das Bindungsschema, das herkömmlicher Weise dem Versetzen der Fäden in Bezug auf die Legebarre entspricht, und die spezifische Sequenz angibt, die gegebenenfalls sukzessive wiederholt werden muss;
• – in einer zweiten Spalte der verwendete Fadentyp; und
• – in einer dritten Spalte der Fadenabzug in Abziehvorrichtungen pro Gestell.

The following is a detailed table showing, for each of the used scrims B1 and B6, the following:

• In a first column, the binding scheme, which conventionally corresponds to the displacement of the threads in relation to the guide bar, and the specific sequence which may need to be repeated successively;
• - in a second column, the thread type used; and
• - In a third column of thread withdrawal in peeling devices per frame.

In this particular example, the Raschel machine used runs at a speed of 900 games / minute, which corresponds to a production of 20 m / h. The distance between the needles is 2.5 mm, and the knitted fabric obtained has 20 meshes per centimeter and a weight of 280 g / m ² .

Example 5

Another binding scheme example used on the same raschel knitting machine is in 11 shown schematically, the six different scrims used.

The Table below corresponds to that reproduced in Example 5 Table.

In the example shown is running the machine used in the same way as in Example 5.

Example 6

As already noted, the invention can also be used according to a technical chain / Schusswebverfahren. Such an example is in the 13 to 15 shown.

So shows 13 the bonding scheme used in a particular example using six different warp yarns on a double loom without cutting on the beater arm. Such a machine comprises 96 threads per centimeter on both sides of the chain. The fabric obtained has 26 wefts per centimeter.

In the example shown are the warp threads with the numbers 1, 2, 4 and 5 firmly pre-twisted polyester threads, the two ends with 167 dtex and 48 filaments. Which is the two binding threads they are different threads. The first binding thread, namely the warp thread No. 3, is a smoother one Monofilament polyester thread with 115 dtex. The second warp thread, namely the warp thread no. 6, is a pre-twisted polyester yarn with 167 dtex and 48 filaments. The weft threads used agree with the warp threads 1, 2, 4 and 5 match.

After the weaving process you get, as in 14 shown a fabric with two surfaces, which are connected by the two different binding warp threads, namely the warp thread no. 3 and the warp thread no. 6.

After the heat treatment, and as in 15 6, since the warp thread No. 6 has contracted more than the warp thread No. 3, the fabric has a less thick area where the warp thread No. 6 played the role of the binding thread.

In the remainder of the fabric, No. 6 warp thread is buried inside the fabric so as not to form any threads floating on the surface of the fabric. Thus, it is preferable that in 15 Use the right side of the surface as the outside of the fabric.

The Articles made by the process of the invention can be used in numerous applications in which one Wearing comfort, insulation properties with simultaneous survey and wanting to get in depth with the methods impossible from the state of the art were achieved.

Of course it is the invention is not limited to the embodiments described above limited, but includes all variants that follow the same basic idea getting produced.

Claims (11)

A three-dimensional double-sided fabric consisting of two outer sheets (A, B) spaced from each other and joined together by binding threads (F) that are substantially perpendicular extending to the opposite surfaces of the two sheets (A, B), characterized in that in certain areas of the fabric the binding threads consist of at least two different types which have different abilities to contract or retract, the two types of Binding threads complement each other so that they form different thicknesses areas that give the fabric a profile effect. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists of a double velvet or plush, its connecting threads are not cut through, with the outer layers of two or the same different fabrics or knitwear, through binding threads (F) are interconnected in certain areas of the Fabric consist of at least two types of threads (F1, F2), the different skills have to move together or retire, taking the profile effect is achieved in that these areas with the Structure are made by the two types of binder threads themselves additional be incorporated. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is woven. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it consists of a warp knitted fabric More specifically, on a Raschel machine with two Needle beds was made. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it consists of a Kulierware. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that it is on a Maschenkuliermaschine is made with double needle bed, of which at least one equipped with a needle selection system, and wherein: • the outer layers the three-dimensional knitwear made of two jersey knitted fabrics (Uni or Jacquard) made of the same or different threads are; • these both outer layers with rows of connecting threads, which are incorporated on the two needle beds together which results in stitches, or simply by the Needles are being recalculated; and • certain Knitted fabrics the combination of two types of connecting threads (F1, F2), which have mutually different abilities, or retire, and those in this series according to a complementary one Needle selection are incorporated. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the profile effect directly at Knitting without complementary Machining is achieved, whereby the binder thread allows the retreat obtained from a tension-knit elastic Thread is formed, the second binding thread in turn from a synthetic or natural usual Thread exists. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that the elastic thread of a thread is made with a spandex anchoring with a polyester or polyamide thread braided, and the non-stretchable thread is a polyester or Polyamide monofilament or a polyester or polyamide multifilament is, with the return directly at the exit of the machine by pulling it back under tension knitted braided thread is obtained. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 1 to 4, characterized in that the profile obtained thereby will that threads which are different under the effect of a heat treatment Have shrinkage properties. Three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that a combination of not fixed pre-twisted textured polyester or polyamide threads and firmly pre-twisted textured polyester or polyamide threads used becomes. A three-dimensional double-sided fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that a combination of a non-pre-twisted textured polyester or polyamide thread and a second connecting thread made of a monofilament polyester thread or a monofilament polya mid thread exists.