Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/347—Phenols
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure

Definitions

• Cosmetic compositions for hydrating keratin fibers comprising a prickly pear extract
• the field of the invention relates to care, in particular the hydration of the skin appendages, in particular the keratin fibres.
• the invention relates in particular to compositions comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium suitable for topical application to the skin appendages, a prickly pear extract.
• compositions It also relates to a cosmetic care process, in particular for hydrating skin appendages, using said compositions.
• Keratins are fundamental compounds of the skin, hair, eyelashes and nails. Hair is made up of 95% keratin, a fibrous and helical protein. Synthesized by keratinocytes, keratin is insoluble in water, thus ensuring impermeability and protection for the hair.
• the hair structure is divided into three distinct parts:
• the marrow or medulla, central part of the stem, it is composed of an amorphous, soft and fatty substance;
• the cuticle, thin external protective layer which contains the nourishing part essential to the development of the hair, very keratinized, composed of cells in the form of scales which are superimposed on each other;
• the cortex the main component of the hair, where we find long chains of keratin that give the hair its elasticity, flexibility and resistance.
• the cells of the cortex are united between them by an intercellular cement rich in lipids and proteins. Each cell is made up of bundles oriented along the length of the hair, these are the macrofibrils, themselves made up of microfibrils, in turn made up of protofibrils.
• Keratin has a certain degree of affinity for water. At saturation, the hair absorbs about 30 to 40% of its weight in water. Absorption depends on the relative humidity of the surrounding environment and affects the shaping of the hair. Indeed, keratin fibers see their physical properties modified by the presence of water, such as variations in length, diameter, or internal viscosity.
• Hair is permeable to water both in vapor and liquid state. Water binds to keratin by creating hydrogen bonds. The absorption of water, through the cuticle then the cortex, generates a swelling of the hair more than an elongation. The pH strongly influences the swelling, reduced at very acidic pH, it is increased at very basic pH. Heat balance is also a factor that intervenes, an elevation accelerates the penetration of water and therefore capillary hydration.
• the cuticular surface relatively permeable to small molecules from the external environment, is described as porous. If it remains intact, it acts as a barrier but only for macromolecules and not for water.
• Dry hair can be recognized by its general dull appearance and rough feel. Dry, dehydrated hair is characterized by a dull, brittle, foamy appearance that swells easily on contact with humidity. Its overall appearance seems unstructured and it is often difficult to style and position dry hair. Dry hair results from an insufficient production of sebum by the sebaceous glands and a lack of water in the hydrolipidic film. The latter protects the scalp and spreads over the hair, contributing to its lubrication. The dryness and dehydration of the scalp and hair then prevent any protection and lubrication. Thus, the hair shaft undergoes an alteration first of the cuticle and then inside the fiber. This degradation of the stem is manifested by a modification of the shape and position of the scales which rise; gradual disappearance of the cuticle; then damage to the cortical keratin which loses its elasticity.
• Dry hair can be constitutionally dry, due to insufficient sebaceous secretion, but it may have been dried out following various attacks. With age, the phenomenon increases.
• hereditary causes such as woolly hair, trichothiodystrophy, uncombable hair syndrome, hereditary frizzy hair, trichorrhexia nodosa.
• Other endogenous causes are also responsible for dry hair, in particular thyroid dysfunction such as hypothyroidism or pituitary insufficiency which can cause hyposeborrhoea; menopause which can be responsible for fragility and dryness of hair due to reduced sebaceous secretion.
• drug causes such as treatments with risotretinoin and cyproterone acetate can cause hyposeborrhoea.
• Environmental conditions which can be aggressive such as rain, wind, sun, sudden changes in temperature and humidity, sea salt, chlorine or swimming pool salt, pollution and tobacco can damage the structure of skin appendages, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
• Aggressive chemical treatments such as shampoos, cosmetic make-up, coloring, bleaching, permanent and/or styling products and physical treatments such as heat with hair dryers and straighteners, friction with brushing damage also keratin fibers and in particular the hair.
• biological attacks such as bacteria and fungi through the oxidative stress they cause can also damage the skin appendages.
• Nails are also subject to environmental aggressions such as cold, chemical aggressions such as varnishes, solvents and household products, biological aggressions such as fungus and mechanical attacks such as friction.
• these conditions and/or aggressive agents alter the keratin fibres, in particular at the level of the cuticle, until the scales are lifted.
• the keratin fibers are then weakened.
• the scales detach from the surface of the keratin fibres.
• damaged hair When damaged, they lose their structure and/or visual and/or biomechanical properties.
• damaged hair in particular is dry, rough and therefore less soft, difficult to comb and shape compared to undamaged hair, and is brittle, in particular split ends. This loss of surface quality of the hair is visible and unsightly.
• the hair also reflects less light and is thus visibly less shiny, less luminous.
• Cosmetic approaches therefore consist in protecting the structure of keratin fibres, by moisturizing them to restore their integrity and/or their visual properties such as their soft and/or silky character, their shine and/or their radiance, and/or their biomechanical properties. such as their resistance, their vitality and/or their strength and in particular for the hair, to facilitate styling and/or shaping.
• the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a fig tree extract to tighten the scales of keratin fibres.
• the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition comprising a prickly pear extract and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, to tighten the scales of keratin fibres.
• appendages means the integumentary productions originating from the ectoderm which are characterized by a high rate of keratinization, it is in particular a question of keratin fibres. Appendages thus do not include skin or mucous membranes. In humans, the main skin appendages are the hair, hair and nails.
• the terms “keratin fibres” mean the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and body hair, preferably beard hair. According to the invention, the beard includes the mustache.
• the term “protect the appendages” is understood to mean at least partially maintaining the structure and/or the visual properties and/or the biomechanical properties of the appendages, preferably of the keratin fibres, even more preferably of the hair, this protection is preferably evaluated when the skin appendages are exposed to environmental, chemical, biological and/or mechanical attack.
• the protection of keratin fibres in particular the hair, relates to the protection of these fibers when they are subjected to attacks, alterations, degradations, damage or physical or mechanical stresses.
• these alterations, degradations, damages or mechanical stresses may be chosen from the group comprising brushing, smoothing, drying, traction, combing, curling, taken individually or in combination.
• the protection of keratin fibres, in particular the hair relates to the protection of these fibers when they are subjected to chemical attacks chosen from coloring and/or bleaching.
• Environmental aggressions include in particular smoke, pollution, temperature, in particular hot and cold and especially their sudden variations, water content, in particular humidity or dryness, solar irradiation, in particular visible spectra, UV and/or gamma rays, rain, wind, dust and sea salt.
• Chemical aggressions include aggressive household products, chlorine from swimming pools, certain cosmetic products which can be aggressive, such as coloring and bleaching, varnishes and/or solvents, solvents, make-up products.
• Chemical attacks on the hair include in particular aggressive shampoos and hair care and/or treatment, in particular for styling, shaping such as straightening and/or permanent waves and/or for coloring and/or bleaching.
• Physical aggressions include in particular friction such as brushing and combing and/or friction on fabrics and/or particles such as dust and/or sand, heat with hair dryers and straighteners, and/or styling with in particular exposure to tensile, stretching and/or twisting forces.
• the biological aggressions of the skin appendages are mainly of a microbiological nature.
• biological attack according to the invention is meant the microorganisms which damage the structure and/or the visual and/or biomechanical properties of the skin appendages, in particular bacteria and/or fungi.
• Bacteria and/or fungi in fact can participate in the genesis of an oxidative stress altering the structure and/or the properties of the skin appendage.
• this oxidative stress occurs in particular via the oxidation of the lipids of the scalp and present in the infundibular canal where the sebum flows. produced by the sebaceous gland.
• Fungi in particular myoses, alter the structure and quality of the nails by making them dry, crumbly, yellow, stained.
• cosmetically acceptable is intended to denote what is useful in the preparation of a cosmetic composition, which is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable and which is acceptable for cosmetic use, in particular by topical application.
• hydrophilic solvent is meant within the meaning of the present invention a solvent chosen for example from water, subcritical water, water-miscible alcohols such as for example ethanol, C3 to C5 glycols , glycerol, acetone, and mixtures thereof.
• dry extract is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an extract devoid of extraction solvent or support, or containing only a non-significant trace. Such a dry extract thus contains only material from prickly pear. It may also contain insignificant traces of extraction solvent.
• the object of the present invention is to meet the needs previously expressed. Indeed, the inventors have demonstrated, quite unexpectedly, that a prickly pear extract has the ability to protect keratin fibres, in particular the hair. Indeed, prickly pear extract has the advantage of acting directly on the keratin fiber by moisturizing it and tightening the scales of the fiber. By tightening the scales, prickly pear extract has a protective and repairing effect on the surface of the hair fibre. This protective effect is demonstrated not only on normal but also damaged hair.
• a first object of the invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of a prickly pear extract for tightening the scales of keratin fibres, advantageously of the hair.
• a second object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one prickly pear extract with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, to tighten the scales of keratin fibres, advantageously of the hair.
• the prickly pear extract or the composition comprising such an extract thus makes it possible to protect and/or repair the keratin fibres.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the present invention may be as described below.
• extract in the present invention, an extract of all or part of the Opuntia ficus-indica plant obtained via a solid/liquid extraction process.
• extract is meant within the meaning of the present invention, the product obtained after solid/liquid extraction of all or part of the plant, in particular the stem called cladode for plants of the Cactaceae family, with at least one solvent, called extraction solvent, i.e. a product containing all the soluble compounds present in the extraction solvent can then optionally be in a concentrated, standardized or dry form after partial or total evaporation of the solvent extraction.
• extraction solvent i.e. a product containing all the soluble compounds present in the extraction solvent
• the extract useful in the context of the invention can be in the form of a dry extract, advantageously in the form of a powder.
• the extract according to the invention can be a standardized extract via the addition of a support or of one or more excipients.
• the prickly pear is a succulent plant belonging to the cactus family and more precisely to the genus Opuntia. It is cultivated in arid climates, such as in the Mediterranean and Central American regions. The semi-arid regions of Mexico contain the greatest diversity of cacti in the world.
• the genus Opuntia contains about 300 species and many of them produce edible stems and fruits. These species include Opuntia ficus-indica (thornless) and Opuntia megacantha (thorny).
• the prickly pear is Opuntia ficus-indica.
• the prickly pear is an arborescent plant, characterized by stems in the form of flat, fleshy and oval rackets, which can reach 3 to 4 meters in height.
• the stems called cladodes, are 30 to 40 cm long, 15 to 25 cm wide and 1.5 to 3 cm thick. Green in color, they unite with each other, forming sort of branches. They are covered with a waxy cuticle which limits the transpiration of the plant.
• the prickly pear gives flowers and fruits in abundance. The flowers appear on the top of the cladodes, they are edible like the fruits to which they give rise and which are in the form of large ovoid and fleshy berries.
• Young cladodes are eaten as a vegetable because they are tender and fibrous. Their nutritional value is similar to that of many vegetables and leaves. They are rich in water, carbohydrates, proteins, vitamin C and b-carotene.
• the chemical composition of cladodes depends on the variety, growth stage and environmental conditions. Recent studies have shown that the mineral composition is high, with mainly potassium, calcium and magnesium and in lesser amounts manganese, iron and zinc.
• Prickly pear cladodes are rich in polyphenols and mainly flavonoids and phenolic acids (El-Mostapha et al. Molecules 2014, 19 (9), 14879-14901).
• the whole plant or prickly pear fruit and/or shoots are typically extracted with a maceration process with an aqueous solvent or mixture of solvents.
• the extracts can be obtained by extraction methods according to which the plant, in particular the parts of plants such as cladodes, are macerated and then exposed to an extraction solvent. Insoluble materials and particles can be filtered to obtain the liquid phase.
• the extractant can be water or alcohol or a combination of these (i.e. a hydroalcoholic mixture).
• the alcohol can be methanol, ethanol, glycerol or a glycol (for example ethylene glycol).
• the extraction solvent is water or even a water/glycerol mixture in a v/v ratio of between 40/60 and 60/40.
• Aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic extracts can include ingredients which are soluble in the extractant which has been used.
• an aqueous extract can comprise an alcohol such as glycerol or even 2-phenoxyethanol.
• the prickly pear extract is obtained via a solid/liquid extraction process, in particular obtained from the stems, or cladodes, of the prickly pear plant, Opuntia ficus-indica.
• a solid/liquid extraction process in particular obtained from the stems, or cladodes, of the prickly pear plant, Opuntia ficus-indica.
• an enzymatic hydrolysis of the rods, or cladodes is carried out before the solid/liquid extraction.
• Prickly pear cladodes can be fresh or dried, whole, cut or ground then subjected to an enzymatic hydrolysis step followed by an extraction step.
• the prickly pear cladodes are reduced to powder.
• a method for preparing an extract useful in the context of the invention comprises a step of extracting prickly pear plant cladodes with a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water, or even a hydro-alcoholic solvent, in particular a water/glycerol mixture.
• a hydrophilic solvent preferably water, or even a hydro-alcoholic solvent, in particular a water/glycerol mixture.
• the extraction solvent may be chosen from water or a water/glycerol mixture, advantageously it will be water or a water/glycerol mixture.
• the extract is an aqueous extract, in particular a hydroglycerin extract.
• it will be an extract resulting from an aqueous extraction and it is thus an aqueous extract of cladodes of prickly pear Opuntia ficus-indica.
• the prickly pear extract is an extract obtained via a solid/liquid extraction process, in particular an aqueous extract or a hydro-glycerine extract. Even advantageously, it is an extract of the stem (or cladode) of prickly pear.
• the extraction is carried out according to conventional solid/liquid extraction techniques by bringing the solid material to be extracted into contact with the extraction solvent, followed by a solid/liquid separation step in order to recover the liquid phase charged with the compounds dissolved in this liquid phase.
• the extraction can be carried out under stirring or statically, at room temperature, or by heating. It can be assisted by ultrasound, microwave, flash release or extrusion, in a plant weight/solvent volume ratio that can vary from 1/3 to 1/30, for a period of 1 minute to 48 hours. The extraction can be repeated 2 to 3 times.
• the extraction can be assisted by the use of at least one enzyme chosen from pectinases, cellulases (endo or exocellulases), hemicellulases, beta-glucanases, and xylanases as well as their mixtures.
• at least one enzyme chosen from pectinases, cellulases (endo or exocellulases), hemicellulases, beta-glucanases, and xylanases as well as their mixtures.
• the solid fraction (also called the marc) can then be separated from the liquid extract by any means suitable such as for example by centrifugation, decantation or filtration in order to recover a clear liquid phase free of particles.
• the liquid phase representing the extract can be more or less concentrated, or even dried, possibly going as far as obtaining a dry extract.
• a particularly advantageous extract for the uses according to the present invention is an extract of prickly pear Opuntia ficus-indica obtained via a solid/liquid extraction process, in particular an aqueous extract of prickly pear Opuntia ficus-indica containing, in % by weight, 40 to 60% water, 40 to 60% glycerol, 0 to 2% 2-phenoxyethanol and 0.5 to 8% prickly pear Opuntia stem extract dry matter ficus indica.
• such an extract of prickly pear Opuntia ficus-indica obtained via a solid/liquid extraction process contains, in% by weight, 2.5% to 5% dry matter of aqueous extract of prickly pear Opuntia ficus-indica, 45 to 50% glycerol, 0 to 1% 2-phenoxyethanol and 45 to 50% water.
• a particularly suitable extract is also commercially available under the name AquaCacteen® or AquaCacteen® ne and marketed by the company MIBELLE AG BIOCHEMISTRY (CH).
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising a prickly pear extract as described above and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, particularly suitable for topical application and/or for oral administration, preferably for application topical.
• the invention preferably relates to cosmetic compositions which are in a clean form and suitable for topical application, preferably directly to the keratin fibres, advantageously to the hair.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may thus be in the forms which are usually known for topical administration, that is to say in particular lotions, shampoos, balms, mousses, gels, dispersions, emulsions, sprays, serums, masks, or creams, with excipients allowing in particular better penetration into the appendages in order to improve the properties and accessibility of the active principle/active agent.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in the form of hair compositions.
• Such compositions are usually known for topical application to the hair, that is to say in particular a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair cream, a hair lotion, a mask or a leave-in spray.
• compositions according to the invention are said to be neutral and gentle for the respect of the hair fiber.
• compositions according to the invention are applied to the keratin fibres, preferably the hair without rinsing or for at least 5 minutes before rinsing.
• compositions generally contain, in addition to the prickly pear extract described above, a physiologically acceptable medium, generally based on water or solvent, for example alcohols, ethers or glycols. They may also contain surfactants, complexing agents, preservatives, stabilizing agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, humectants, emollients, trace elements, essential oils, perfumes, colorants or thermal waters, etc.
• the extract useful within the scope of the invention is the only active agent making it possible to tighten the scales of the composition. It is also typically the only moisturizing, caring, strengthening and/or protective active agent for the superficial body growths, in particular the keratin fibres, more particularly still the hair, of the cosmetic composition.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention will comprise 0.01 to 5% by weight of dry extract, preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by weight of prickly pear dry extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition will comprise 0.1% by weight of prickly pear dry extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
• These % by weight of dry extract are exclusive of the weight of any drying medium, if any, and only concerns the dry plant extract.
• the present invention also relates to a hair composition
• a hair composition comprising, as active principle (active agent), a hair treatment agent comprising or consisting of a prickly pear extract as described in the present description, and a capillary-acceptable excipient.
• the hair composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is in a form suitable for topical administration at the level of the appendages, in particular at the level of the keratin fibres, more particularly still at the level of the hair.
• the term "capillary acceptable” is intended to denote that which is useful in the preparation of a hair composition, which is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable and which is acceptable for use by topical application. at the level of the superficial body growths, in particular at the level of the keratinous fibres, more particularly still at the level of the hair.
• the cosmetic compositions can be manufactured according to methods well known to those skilled in the art.
• the invention also relates to a method for preparing a hair composition for topical application to keratin fibres, more particularly the hair; the composition comprising a prickly pear extract, the method comprising the steps: a) mixing the prickly pear extract as described above with a dermatologically or cosmetically acceptable vehicle; and b) packaging the mixture resulting from step (a) in suitable packaging.
• the prickly pear extract as described above or the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is useful for tightening the scales of keratin fibres, in particular of the hair.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention or the cosmetic composition allows a protective and repairing effect on the surface of the hair fibre.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention or the cosmetic composition according to the present invention also makes it possible to hydrate and/or protect the appendages, preferentially the keratin fibers, preferentially the hair and/or body hair. , again preferentially the hair.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention or the cosmetic composition according to the invention also makes it possible to protect the structure, the visual properties and/or the biomechanical properties of the keratin fibers against mechanical attacks. , biological, chemical and/or environmental.
• a prickly pear extract as described above or of a cosmetic composition comprising such an extract also makes it possible to prevent and/or reduce and/or eliminate unsightly disorders from chemical, biological, physical, mechanical and/or environmental effects on the appendages, preferentially the keratin fibres, and even more preferentially the hair, preferentially to maintain and/or increase the softness and/or the silky appearance of the keratin fibres, and/or to embellish the fibers keratin products, in particular to make them shinier and/or improve their radiance, and/or to improve and/or facilitate their shaping and/or their styling, which has the consequence of maintaining and/or increasing their resistance, their vitality and /or their strength.
• damage or physical or mechanical stress In particular, these alterations, degradations, damages or mechanical stresses may be chosen from the group comprising brushing, smoothing, drying, traction, combing, curling, taken individually or in combination.
• the protection of keratin fibres in particular the hair, relates to the protection of these fibers when they are subjected to chemical attack chosen from coloring and/or bleaching.
• the protection of the appendages and in particular of the keratinous fibers can be evaluated according to the existing techniques in the field.
• the conventional methods for measuring a protective effect make it possible to measure the capacity of the product evaluated to restore a visual, structural and/or functional state of a damaged appendage, preferentially of the damaged keratin fiber, comparable to the state of an undamaged skin appendage, preferably undamaged keratin fibre. They are implemented on appendages, preferentially on keratin fibers, more preferentially on damaged hair and the protective effect is measured by comparison with the superficial body growths, preferentially with keratin fibers, more preferentially with undamaged hair.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention, or the cosmetic composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for the care and/or treatment of keratin fibers damaged and/or exposed to physical, mechanical and /or biological and/or chemical and/or environmental, in particular damaged hair, in particular dry, split ends, dull, fine, colored, rough, flat, lackluster and/or difficult to comb and/or shape.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention or the cosmetic composition according to the invention is also suitable for the care of hair which becomes fragile and quickly damaged by its nature, such as dry hair and/or or curly and/or frizzy and/or white and/or aging and/or fine hair.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention or the cosmetic composition according to the invention is also very particularly suitable for use on the hair, in particular for maintaining and/or increasing the resistance, the vitality of the hair and /or strengthen the hair.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention or the cosmetic composition according to the invention is also very particularly suitable for use on the hair, in particular for maintaining and/or increasing the shine and/or radiance. , the softness and/or the silky appearance, which makes it easier to style and/or shape the hair.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention, or the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied mainly or partly to the appendages, preferably keratin fibers of the human body chosen from hair, nails and body hair. , in particular the hair and the body hair, in particular the hair of the beard, the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows, advantageously the hair.
• the prickly pear extract useful in the context of the invention, or the cosmetic composition according to the invention are very particularly useful for dry hair, damaged hair, in particular dull, fine, colored, rough, flat, without shine and/or difficult to comb and/or to shape and/or hair which becomes fragile and/or damaged quickly due to its nature, such as dry and/or frizzy and/or frizzy hair and/or white and/or aging and/or fine hair.
• the invention also relates to the use of an active ingredient comprising, or consisting of, a prickly pear extract to protect and/or repair skin appendages.
• the present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic care characterized in that it comprises the application to a zone concerned of the superficial body growths, preferably of the keratin fibres, of the face and/or of the body, of the prickly pear extract useful in the scope of the invention or of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, for moisturizing and/or protecting the superficial body growths and in particular for maintaining and/or increasing the shine and/or radiance, the softness and/or the appearance silkiness, resistance, vitality and/or to tighten the scales of the hair and/or to strengthen the hair and thus facilitate styling and/or styling of the hair.
• the invention thus relates to a cosmetic method for moisturizing and/or protecting the skin appendages comprising the topical application of a prickly pear extract as described above or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention to a concentrated area of the skin appendages.
• the skin appendages are chosen from keratin fibers of the face and/or body.
• the keratin fibers are chosen from the group consisting of hair, eyelashes, body hair and nails. More particularly still it is the hair.
• the present invention thus relates to the use of a hair treatment agent, comprising, or consisting of a prickly pear extract, obtained by solid/liquid extraction, in particular an aqueous or hydro-glycerinated prickly pear extract, for the moisturizing, caring for, strengthening and/or protecting skin appendages, in particular keratinous fibres, more particularly hair.
• a hair treatment agent comprising, or consisting of a prickly pear extract, obtained by solid/liquid extraction, in particular an aqueous or hydro-glycerinated prickly pear extract, for the moisturizing, caring for, strengthening and/or protecting skin appendages, in particular keratinous fibres, more particularly hair.
• the invention also relates to the use of a hair treatment agent comprising, or consisting of an extract of prickly pear, obtained by solid/liquid extraction, in particular an aqueous or hydro-glycerinated extract of prickly pear, for the hydration skin appendages, in particular keratin fibres, more particularly hair.
• the hydration of keratinous fibres in particular of the hair, relates to the hydration of these fibers when they are subjected to attacks, alterations, degradations, damages or physical or mechanical stresses.
• these alterations, degradations, damages or mechanical stresses may be chosen from the group comprising brushing, smoothing, drying, traction, combing, curling, taken individually or in combination.
• the protection of keratin fibres, in particular the hair relates to the protection of these fibers when they are subjected to attacks, alterations, degradations, damage or physical or mechanical stresses.
• these alterations, degradations, damages or mechanical stresses may be chosen from the group comprising brushing, smoothing, drying, traction, combing, curling, taken individually or in combination.
• the hydration of keratin fibres in particular the hair, relates to the hydration of these fibers when they are subjected to chemical attack chosen from coloring and/or bleaching.
• the protection of keratin fibres, in particular the hair relates to the protection of these fibers when they are subjected to chemical attacks chosen from coloring and/or bleaching.
• the present invention also relates to a method making it possible to tighten the scales of keratin fibers or to obtain hydration, care, strengthening and/or protection of the superficial body growths, in particular keratin fibers, more particularly still the hair, comprising the steps consisting in: (i) wetting the superficial body growths, in particular the keratinous fibres, more particularly still the hair with water; (ii) applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the superficial body growths, in particular the keratin fibers, more particularly still the hair; (iii) optionally rinsing the composition with water; and (iv) optionally repeating steps (ii) and (iii).
• a hair treatment agent comprising, or consisting in, a prickly pear extract, obtained by solid/liquid extraction, in particular an aqueous or hydro-glycerin extract of prickly pear, could advantageously be used in a hair composition intended for application directly to the appendages, in particular keratin fibers, more particularly the hair for moisturizing, caring for, strengthening and/or protecting the latter.
• care of the appendages, in particular of the keratinous fibres, more particularly still of the hair is meant the reinforcement of their integrity and/or of their visual properties such as the softness and/or silkiness, the shine and/or the radiance, and/or the biomechanical properties such as resistance, vitality and/or strength and in particular for the hair, thus allowing ease of styling and/or styling.
• the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of appendages, in particular keratinous fibres, more particularly still hair, of a hair composition according to the invention and as defined in the present description.
• the invention also relates to the use of a hair treatment agent comprising, or consisting of a prickly pear extract obtained by solid/liquid extraction, in particular an aqueous or hydro-glycerinated extract of prickly pear, for the manufacture a hair composition intended for moisturizing, caring for, strengthening and/or protecting the superficial body growths, in particular keratinous fibres, more particularly still the hair.
• a hair treatment agent comprising, or consisting of a prickly pear extract obtained by solid/liquid extraction, in particular an aqueous or hydro-glycerinated extract of prickly pear
• Example 1 evaluation by low-field NMR of the moisturizing effect on hair of a prickly pear extract
• Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) methods make it possible to characterize the hydration capacity of molecules such as an extract according to the invention, either directly in water or in contact with the hair.
• the objective of this study is to study, using low-field NMR methods, the possible impact of the addition of a prickly pear extract on the hydration capacity of the hair.
• the prickly pear extract was taken up in distilled water at a concentration of 2%.
• This material is an extract sold under the Aquacacteen® brand by the company Mibelle Biochemistry (Switzerland), containing in % by weight, 45 to 50% glycerol, 0 to 1% 2-phenoxyethanol and 45 to 50 % of water and 5% by weight of prickly pear dry extract; which amounts to a tested concentration of 0.1% dry extract. Examples 1 to 4 implement this material.
• moisturizer A positive control, known as moisturizer is chosen to validate the test, it is glycerine also tested at 2% by weight.
• the locks of hair were prepared as follows:
• the total quantity of protons present in the sample (essentially the water signal), The mobility of the protons representative of the binding forces of water,
• Water of hydration is called highly bound water because it undergoes strong interactions from macromolecules (melanin and keratin). Another population called bound water indirectly undergoes the influence of macromolecules and "very free” water which is not subject to any interaction. Free water within the system is more or less mobile. This mobility is measured and is representative of the binding forces of water. The lower the mobility, the stronger the binding forces between the water and the macromolecules. Results
• Table 1 Moisture content measured in the hair strands analyzed
• Table 2 shows the mobility of the protons measured by low-field NMR in the different locks of hair analyzed.
• This parameter is representative of the binding forces between the water and the constituent molecules of the extract according to the invention or of its excipient and the hair. Indeed, the lower the proton mobility, the stronger the bond strengths and vice versa.
• distilled water Compared to untreated hair, the application of distilled water alone moderately increases the total quantity of water visible by low-field NMR in the locks, reflecting hydration of the hair. Glycerin also increases the amount of protons. This slightly greater increase than that found with distilled water validates this test, highlighting the moisturizing effect of glycerin.
• prickly pear extract causes a marked increase in the total amount of water in the strands, to be linked to better hydration of the hair.
• This total quantity of water visible by low-field NMR dissociates into two populations, a very bound water and a bound water.
• Table 4 shows the amounts of highly bound protons and of bound protons measured by low-field NMR in the different locks of hair analyzed.
• Table 4 Quantities of tightly bound protons and bound protons measured by low-field NMR
• Example 2 evaluation by low-field NMR of the moisturizing effect on damaged hair of a prickly pear extract
• the objective of this study is to reproduce the study of example 1 on damaged hair, with and without rinsing after application of a prickly pear extract.
• the prickly pear extract was taken up in distilled water at a concentration of 2%. This is the same extract as that of example 1.
• the protocol used is the same as in Example 1.
• the rinsing step that is performed before combing the locks consists of rinsing them under cold water for 30 seconds.
• 5/0 dark brown natural virgin hair (Kerling International supplier, Germany) was bleached using a commercial preparation.
• the latter consisted of a persulphate-based powder mixed with 12 volumes of hydrogen peroxide, thus forming a paste which was spread over locks of hair, then the whole thing was wrapped in aluminum foil. After 30 minutes, the locks of hair were rinsed thoroughly and then dried. This procedure of bleaching was repeated on the same locks in order to obtain treated hair 2 times 30 minutes in total.
• the discoloration leads to variations of all the parameters evaluated. Indeed, one can note an increase in the water content in the hair, a decrease in the mobility of the protons and a strong increase in the quantity of protons, due to an increase in the quantity of very bound protons.
• Table 6 moisturizing effect of a prickly pear extract Compared to untreated damaged hair, the application of water alone does not modify the water content of the locks or the mobility of the protons that make up damaged hair.
• glycerin induces an increase in moisture content, associated with a decrease in proton mobility.
• the application of prickly pear extract results in a marked increase in moisture content and an equally marked decrease in proton mobility in damaged hair. This evolution reflects an increase in bond strengths.
• glycerin a known hair moisturizing agent, induces an increase in the total quantity of protons.
• the quantity of protons does not change significantly for the two groups.
• the rinsing step does not have the same impact on the quantity of bound protons, with glycerin a reduction in this quantity is observed, whereas in the presence of a prickly pear extract, the quantity of bound protons is increased.
• the inventors clearly demonstrate that a prickly pear extract has moisturizing capacities on normal hair but also on damaged hair and that the water penetrates when rinsing. In fact, the hydration results appear better than those obtained with the well-known moisturizing agent glycerin, which loses its effectiveness when rinsing.
• Example 3 Evaluation by low-field NMR of the moisturizing effect on damaged hair of a prickly pear extract
• the objective of this study is to reproduce the study of example 2, still on damaged hair, with and without rinsing after application of a prickly pear extract.
• the persistence effect was also tested.
• the prickly pear extract was taken up in distilled water at a concentration of 0.5 and 1%.
• the rinsing step that is done before combing the locks consists of rinsing them under cold water for 30 seconds.
• Table 8 moisturizing effect of a fig tree extract
• the moisture content of damaged hair is broadly the same in all groups.
• the application of 1% prickly pear extract results in a marked decrease in proton mobility.
• This evolution reflects an increase in the binding forces between water and the constituent molecules of the extract.
• the application of 0.5% prickly pear extract tends to increase the total amount of protons visible by low-field NMR in the strands and when it is applied at 1%, more significantly increases the total amount of protons. This effect is linked to better hydration of the hair with 1% prickly pear extract.
• Table 9 persistence of the moisturizing activity of a prickly pear extract
• the inventors thus demonstrate a persistence effect of prickly pear extract, 24 hours on unrinsed hair.
• Example 4 Observation of the hair by scanning electron microscopy Preparation of the hair for the microscopy
• 5-6 damaged hairs are mounted on aluminum bases using adhesive carbon discs.
• For each hair we make a knot in order to apply a constraint on the hair. This constraint makes it possible to highlight the scales of the cuticle which lack cohesion, visible by their uprising.
• these bases are placed in the chamber of the scanning electron microscope.
• the prickly pear extract is tested at 1%.

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