EP4263890A1 - Timepiece, ornament or jewellery item made of gold - Google Patents

Timepiece, ornament or jewellery item made of gold

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Publication number
EP4263890A1
EP4263890A1 EP21749798.1A EP21749798A EP4263890A1 EP 4263890 A1 EP4263890 A1 EP 4263890A1 EP 21749798 A EP21749798 A EP 21749798A EP 4263890 A1 EP4263890 A1 EP 4263890A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gold
alloy
weight
silver
copper
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21749798.1A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Denis Vincent
Stéphane Lauper
Gregory Kissling
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Omega SA
Original Assignee
Omega SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Omega SA filed Critical Omega SA
Publication of EP4263890A1 publication Critical patent/EP4263890A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C22—METALLURGY; FERROUS OR NON-FERROUS ALLOYS; TREATMENT OF ALLOYS OR NON-FERROUS METALS
    • C22C—ALLOYS
    • C22C5/00—Alloys based on noble metals
    • C22C5/02—Alloys based on gold
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/002—Metallic materials
    • A44C27/003—Metallic alloys
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00—Cases
    • G04B37/22—Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases

Definitions

  • the invention also relates to a timepiece, piece of jewelery or jewelery made from this gold alloy.
  • Application EP 19193469 discloses a zinc-free 9-carat gold alloy comprising by weight between 37.5% and 38.5% gold, palladium and/or silver with a total percentage of between 4% and 32%, copper between 25% and 54% and gallium between 0% and 10%.
  • This alloy has good deformability as well as improved resistance to stress corrosion and tarnishing. It also has a beautiful color close to that of bronze without the disadvantages associated with the oxidation of this material.
  • the object of the present invention is to develop a gold alloy having the same bronze hue as that of the 9 carat gold alloy of the prior art with improved resistance to tarnishing.
  • the gold alloy thus developed is an 18 carat alloy comprising silver, palladium and copper.
  • the gold alloy comprises by weight between 73% and 77% gold, between 5% and 9.9% silver, between 1% and 4.9% palladium and between 10% and 18 % of copper.
  • the invention relates to a gold alloy consisting by weight of 73% to 77% gold, 5% to 9.9% silver, 1% to 4.9% palladium, 10% to 18% copper and from 0 to 0.05% of one or more elements chosen from iridium, rhenium and ruthenium.
  • the gold alloy has one or an appropriate combination of the following characteristics:
  • HV1 hardness of between 140 and 185 and preferably between 155 and 180.
  • the present invention also relates to the timepiece, jewelery or jewelery piece made in this alloy.
  • timepieces, jewelery or jewelery parts made with this alloy have improved resistance to tarnishing over time compared to parts made with the aforementioned 9-carat alloy. They also have improved resistance to tarnishing compared to parts made with other 18-karat alloys.
  • the 9-karat alloy according to the prior art and the 18-karat alloy according to the present invention have a tint similar to the eye.
  • FIG. 1 represents a timepiece comprising a middle part made with the gold alloy according to the invention.
  • Figure 2 shows the discoloration curves for the alloy according to the invention (INV) and two 18-carat alloys (2N, 3N) according to the prior art. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
  • the present invention relates to an 18-carat gold alloy more particularly intended for an application in the field of watchmaking, jewelery or jewellery. It thus also relates to timepieces, jewelery or jewelery made in this alloy.
  • timepieces means both exterior components such as a middle part, a case back, a bezel, a pusher, a bracelet link, a dial, a hand, a dial index, etc., and movement components such as a plate, a bridge or a balance wheel.
  • the timepiece is a middle part 1 as represented in FIG.
  • the gold alloy according to the invention comprising by weight between 73% and 77% gold, between 5% and 11% silver, between 1% and 4.9% palladium and between 10% and 18% of copper.
  • This alloy is nickel, cobalt, iron and manganese free.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 73.5% and 77% gold, between 5.5% and 9.9% silver, between 1.5% and 4.9% palladium and between 1 1 % and 18% copper.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 73.5% and 76.5% gold, between 5.5% and 9.9% silver, between 1.5% and 4.9% palladium and between 11% and 16% copper.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises between 74% and 76.5% gold, between 6% and 9.9% silver, between 2% and 4.9% palladium and between 12% and 16 % of copper.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 74% and 76% gold, between 6% and 9.5% silver, between 2% and 4.9% palladium and between 12% and 15.5% copper.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 0 and 0.05% (limits included) of one or more elements chosen from iridium, rhenium and ruthenium, the 0-0.05% range covering the total percentage of or these elements.
  • the alloy comprises by weight 0.0025% iridium.
  • the various elements of the composition are melted before being cast.
  • the casting ingot is then deformed with a work hardening rate greater than or equal to 75% divided into several passes with intermediate annealing carried out in a range of temperatures between 550°C and 750°C, for a time between 5 minutes and 30 minutes.
  • the samples are annealed at a temperature of 650° C. for 30 minutes.
  • the blanks are dimensioned, for example, by machining.
  • the alloys obtained after deformation and annealing have, in the CIELAB colorimetric space (in accordance with CIE standards n°15, ISO 7724/1, DIN 5033 Part 7, ASTM E-1 164) an a* value of between 3 and 9, of preferably between 5.5 and 8, and a b* value between 12 and 18, preferably between 14 and 17, the a* and b* values together defining the shade of the alloy. They also have an L value between 80 and 90, the La*b* values together defining the color of the alloy. According to the present invention, emphasis is placed more specifically on the a* and b* values which define the shade of the alloy.
  • These alloys have a hardness of between 140 and 185 HV1, preferably between 155 and 180 HV1.
  • Table 1 shows the composition by weight of a reference 9-carat gold alloy from application EP 19193469 and of five 18-carat gold alloys according to the invention.
  • the colorimetric values and the hardness (HV1 ) measured are also presented in Table 1.
  • the colorimetric L*a*b* values were measured with a KONICA MINOLTA CM-2600d spectrophotometer with illuminant D65 and an observation angle of 10 °.
  • the Delta E and Delta C values respectively represent the color variation and the chromatic variation with respect to at the 9K benchmark.
  • the Delta E is calculated based on the La*b* values as follows with Lref, a*ref and b*ref referring to the values of the reference 9 carat gold alloy:
  • the Delta C is calculated based on the a*b* values as follows:
  • a* and b* are very close with, for a*, values between 6.4 and 7.8 for a reference value of 6.7 and with, for b*, values between 14.7 and 16.4 with a value of reference of 15.
  • the reference and the gold alloys according to the invention have the same bronze tint.
  • the tarnish assessment was performed visually after exposure to ambient air for several days.
  • the 18-carat gold alloys according to the invention maintain their beautiful bronze color without tarnishing, unlike the 9-carat gold alloy according to the prior art, which tarnishes noticeably.
  • the alloys according to the invention have an HV1 hardness in the annealed state of between 158 and 175 allowing them to be easily deformed.
  • the new gold alloy thus has a beautiful bronze tint with less tarnishing over time.

Abstract

The invention relates to a gold alloy comprising by weight between 73% and 77% gold, between 5% and 11% silver, between 1% and 7% palladium and between 10% and 18% copper. The present invention also relates to the timepiece, ornament or jewellery item made from this gold alloy.

Description

P IECE D’ HORLOGE RI E , DE B IJOUTE RI E OU DE JOAI LLE RI E E N OR P IECE OF CLOCK RI E , JEWELRY OR JEWELRY RI E IN GOLD
DOMAINE DE L’INVENTION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
L’invention concerne un alliage d’or 18 carats présentant une belle teinte bronze et une résistance au ternissement améliorée. An 18 karat gold alloy with a beautiful bronze tint and improved tarnish resistance is disclosed.
L’invention concerne également une pièce d’horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie réalisée dans cet alliage d’or. The invention also relates to a timepiece, piece of jewelery or jewelery made from this gold alloy.
ARRIERE-PLAN DE L’INVENTION BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
On connaît de la demande EP 19193469 (numéro de la demande) un alliage d’or 9 carats sans zinc comprenant en poids entre 37.5% et 38.5% d'or, du palladium et/ou de l’argent avec un pourcentage total compris entre 4% et 32%, du cuivre entre 25% et 54% et du gallium entre 0% et 10%. Cet alliage présente une bonne déformabilité ainsi qu’une résistance à la corrosion sous contrainte et au ternissement améliorée. Il présente par ailleurs une belle teinte proche de celle du bronze sans les désavantages liés à l’oxydation de ce matériau. Application EP 19193469 (application number) discloses a zinc-free 9-carat gold alloy comprising by weight between 37.5% and 38.5% gold, palladium and/or silver with a total percentage of between 4% and 32%, copper between 25% and 54% and gallium between 0% and 10%. This alloy has good deformability as well as improved resistance to stress corrosion and tarnishing. It also has a beautiful color close to that of bronze without the disadvantages associated with the oxidation of this material.
Bien que présentant une résistance au ternissement améliorée par rapport aux alliages d’or 9 carats standards, un certain ternissement peut être observé dans le temps. Ce ternissement altère la belle teinte proche du bronze des pièces réalisées dans cet alliage. Although exhibiting improved tarnish resistance over standard 9 karat gold alloys, some tarnishing may be observed over time. This tarnish alters the beautiful bronze-like hue of parts made from this alloy.
RESUME DE L’INVENTION SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
La présente invention a pour objet de mettre au point un alliage d’or présentant une même teinte bronze que celle de l’alliage d’or 9 carats de l’art antérieur avec une résistance au ternissement améliorée. The object of the present invention is to develop a gold alloy having the same bronze hue as that of the 9 carat gold alloy of the prior art with improved resistance to tarnishing.
A cet effet, la composition chimique de l’alliage d’or a été adaptée. L’alliage d’or ainsi développé est un alliage 18 carats comprenant de l’argent, du palladium et du cuivre. For this purpose, the chemical composition of the gold alloy has been adapted. The gold alloy thus developed is an 18 carat alloy comprising silver, palladium and copper.
Plus précisément, l’alliage d’or comprend en poids entre 73% et 77% d'or, entre 5% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 1 % et 4,9% de palladium et entre 10% et 18% de cuivre. More specifically, the gold alloy comprises by weight between 73% and 77% gold, between 5% and 9.9% silver, between 1% and 4.9% palladium and between 10% and 18 % of copper.
Avantageusement, l’invention concerne un alliage d’or constitué en poids de 73% à 77% d'or, de 5% à 9,9% d’argent, de 1 % à 4,9% de palladium, de 10% à 18% de cuivre et de 0 à 0.05% d’un ou plusieurs éléments choisis parmi l’iridium, le rhénium et le ruthénium. Advantageously, the invention relates to a gold alloy consisting by weight of 73% to 77% gold, 5% to 9.9% silver, 1% to 4.9% palladium, 10% to 18% copper and from 0 to 0.05% of one or more elements chosen from iridium, rhenium and ruthenium.
Selon des modes particuliers de l’invention, l’alliage d’or présente une ou une combinaison appropriée des caractéristiques suivantes : According to particular embodiments of the invention, the gold alloy has one or an appropriate combination of the following characteristics:
- il comprend en poids entre 73.5% et 77% d'or, entre 5.5% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 1.5% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 1 1 % et 18% de cuivre ; - it comprises by weight between 73.5% and 77% gold, between 5.5% and 9.9% silver, between 1.5% and 4.9% palladium and between 11% and 18% copper;
- il comprend en poids entre 73.5% et 76.5% d'or, entre 5.5% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 1.5% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 1 1 % et 16% de cuivre ; - it comprises by weight between 73.5% and 76.5% gold, between 5.5% and 9.9% silver, between 1.5% and 4.9% palladium and between 11% and 16% copper;
- il comprend en poids entre 74% et 76.5% d'or, entre 6% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 2% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 12% et 16% de cuivre ; - it comprises by weight between 74% and 76.5% gold, between 6% and 9.9% silver, between 2% and 4.9% palladium and between 12% and 16% copper;
- il comprend en poids entre 74% et 76% d'or, entre 6% et 9.5% d’argent, entre 2% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 12% et 15.5% de cuivre ; - it comprises by weight between 74% and 76% gold, between 6% and 9.5% silver, between 2% and 4.9% palladium and between 12% and 15.5% copper;
- il comprend en poids maximum 0,05% d’un ou plusieurs éléments choisis parmi l’iridium, le rhénium et le ruthénium ; - it comprises a maximum of 0.05% by weight of one or more elements chosen from iridium, rhenium and ruthenium;
- il a dans l’espace colorimétrique CIELAB une valeur a* comprise entre 3 et 9 et une valeur b* comprise entre 12 et 18 ; - it has in the CIELAB colorimetric space an a* value between 3 and 9 and a b* value between 12 and 18;
- il a dans l’espace colorimétrique CIELAB une valeur a* comprise entre 5.5 et 8 et une valeur b* comprise entre 14 et 17 ; - it has in the CIELAB colorimetric space a value a* included between 5.5 and 8 and a b* value between 14 and 17;
- il a dans l’espace colorimétrique CIELAB une valeur L comprise entre 80 et 90 ; - it has in the CIELAB colorimetric space an L value between 80 and 90;
- il a une dureté HV1 comprise entre 140 et 185 et, de préférence, entre 155 et 180. - it has an HV1 hardness of between 140 and 185 and preferably between 155 and 180.
La présente invention se rapporte également à la pièce d’horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie réalisée dans cet alliage. The present invention also relates to the timepiece, jewelery or jewelery piece made in this alloy.
En utilisation, il a été constaté que les pièces d’horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie réalisées avec cet alliage présentent dans le temps une résistance au ternissement améliorée par rapport à des pièces réalisées avec l’alliage 9 carats susmentionné. Elles présentent en outre une résistance au ternissement améliorée par rapport à des pièces réalisées avec d’autres alliages 18 carats. In use, it has been found that timepieces, jewelery or jewelery parts made with this alloy have improved resistance to tarnishing over time compared to parts made with the aforementioned 9-carat alloy. They also have improved resistance to tarnishing compared to parts made with other 18-karat alloys.
Du point de vue de la teinte, l’alliage 9 carats selon l’art antérieur et l’alliage 18 carats selon la présente invention ont une teinte semblable à l’œil. From the point of view of tint, the 9-karat alloy according to the prior art and the 18-karat alloy according to the present invention have a tint similar to the eye.
D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de la présente invention apparaîtront dans la description suivante d'un mode de réalisation préféré, présenté à titre d'exemple non limitatif en référence aux dessins annexés. Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear in the following description of a preferred embodiment, presented by way of non-limiting example with reference to the appended drawings.
BREVE DESCRIPTION DES FIGURES BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES
La figure 1 représente une pièce d’horlogerie comprenant une carrure réalisée avec l’alliage d’or selon l’invention. FIG. 1 represents a timepiece comprising a middle part made with the gold alloy according to the invention.
La figure 2 montre les courbes de décoloration pour l’alliage selon l’invention (INV) et deux alliages 18 carats (2N,3N) selon l’art antérieur. DESCRIPTION DE L’INVENTION Figure 2 shows the discoloration curves for the alloy according to the invention (INV) and two 18-carat alloys (2N, 3N) according to the prior art. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
La présente invention se rapporte à un alliage d’or 18 carats plus particulièrement destiné à une application dans le domaine horloger, de la bijouterie ou de la joaillerie. Elle se rapporte ainsi également aux pièces d’horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie réalisées dans cet alliage. On entend par pièces d’horlogerie aussi bien des composants d’habillage tels qu’une carrure, un fond, une lunette, un poussoir, un maillon de bracelet, un cadran, une aiguille, un index de cadran, etc., que des composants du mouvement tels qu’une platine, un pont ou un balancier. A titre illustratif, la pièce d’horlogerie est une carrure 1 telle que représentée à la figure 1 . The present invention relates to an 18-carat gold alloy more particularly intended for an application in the field of watchmaking, jewelery or jewellery. It thus also relates to timepieces, jewelery or jewelery made in this alloy. The term “timepieces” means both exterior components such as a middle part, a case back, a bezel, a pusher, a bracelet link, a dial, a hand, a dial index, etc., and movement components such as a plate, a bridge or a balance wheel. By way of illustration, the timepiece is a middle part 1 as represented in FIG.
L’alliage d’or selon l’invention comprenant en poids entre 73% et 77% d'or, entre 5% et 11 % d’argent, entre 1 % et 4,9% de palladium et entre 10% et 18% de cuivre. Cet alliage est sans nickel, sans cobalt, sans fer et sans manganèse. The gold alloy according to the invention comprising by weight between 73% and 77% gold, between 5% and 11% silver, between 1% and 4.9% palladium and between 10% and 18% of copper. This alloy is nickel, cobalt, iron and manganese free.
Avantageusement l'alliage à base d’or comprend en poids entre 73.5% et 77% d'or, entre 5.5% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 1 .5% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 1 1 % et 18% de cuivre. Advantageously, the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 73.5% and 77% gold, between 5.5% and 9.9% silver, between 1.5% and 4.9% palladium and between 1 1 % and 18% copper.
De préférence, l'alliage à base d’or comprend en poids entre 73.5% et 76.5% d'or, entre 5.5% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 1 .5% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 1 1 % et 16% de cuivre. Preferably, the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 73.5% and 76.5% gold, between 5.5% and 9.9% silver, between 1.5% and 4.9% palladium and between 11% and 16% copper.
Plus préférentiellement, l'alliage à base d’or comprend entre 74% et 76.5% d'or, entre 6% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 2% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 12% et 16% de cuivre. More preferably, the gold-based alloy comprises between 74% and 76.5% gold, between 6% and 9.9% silver, between 2% and 4.9% palladium and between 12% and 16 % of copper.
De manière particulièrement préférée, l'alliage à base d’or comprend en poids entre 74% et 76% d'or, entre 6% et 9.5% d’argent, entre 2% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 12% et 15.5% de cuivre. Particularly preferably, the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 74% and 76% gold, between 6% and 9.5% silver, between 2% and 4.9% palladium and between 12% and 15.5% copper.
En outre, l'alliage à base d’or comprend en poids entre 0 et 0,05% (bornes comprises) d’un ou plusieurs éléments choisis parmi l’iridium, le rhénium et le ruthénium, la gamme 0-0.05% couvrant le pourcentage total du ou de ces éléments. De manière avantageuse, l'alliage comprend en poids 0.0025% d’iridium. In addition, the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 0 and 0.05% (limits included) of one or more elements chosen from iridium, rhenium and ruthenium, the 0-0.05% range covering the total percentage of or these elements. Advantageously, the alloy comprises by weight 0.0025% iridium.
Pour préparer l’alliage d’or, les différents éléments de la composition sont mis en fusion avant d’être coulés. Le lingot de coulée est ensuite déformé avec un taux d’écrouissage supérieur ou égal à 75% réparti en plusieurs passes avec des recuits intermédiaires réalisés dans une gamme de températures comprises entre 550°C et 750°C, pendant un temps compris entre 5 minutes et 30 minutes. Dans les exemples ci-après, les échantillons sont recuits à une température de 650°C pendant 30 minutes. Après refroidissement, les ébauches sont mises à dimension, par exemple, par usinage. To prepare the gold alloy, the various elements of the composition are melted before being cast. The casting ingot is then deformed with a work hardening rate greater than or equal to 75% divided into several passes with intermediate annealing carried out in a range of temperatures between 550°C and 750°C, for a time between 5 minutes and 30 minutes. In the examples below, the samples are annealed at a temperature of 650° C. for 30 minutes. After cooling, the blanks are dimensioned, for example, by machining.
Les alliages obtenus après déformation et recuit présentent dans l’espace colorimétrique CIELAB (conforme aux normes CIE n°15, ISO 7724/1 , DIN 5033 Teil 7, ASTM E-1 164) une valeur a* comprise entre 3 et 9, de préférence entre 5.5 et 8, et une valeur b* comprise entre 12 et 18, de préférence entre 14 et 17, les valeurs a* et b* définissant ensemble la teinte de l’alliage. Ils présentent en outre une valeur L comprise entre 80 et 90, les valeurs La*b* définissant ensemble la couleur de l’alliage. Selon la présente invention, l’accent est mis plus spécifiquement sur les valeurs a* et b* qui définissent la teinte de l’alliage. The alloys obtained after deformation and annealing have, in the CIELAB colorimetric space (in accordance with CIE standards n°15, ISO 7724/1, DIN 5033 Teil 7, ASTM E-1 164) an a* value of between 3 and 9, of preferably between 5.5 and 8, and a b* value between 12 and 18, preferably between 14 and 17, the a* and b* values together defining the shade of the alloy. They also have an L value between 80 and 90, the La*b* values together defining the color of the alloy. According to the present invention, emphasis is placed more specifically on the a* and b* values which define the shade of the alloy.
Ces alliages présentent une dureté comprise entre 140 et 185 HV1 , de préférence entre 155 et 180 HV1 . These alloys have a hardness of between 140 and 185 HV1, preferably between 155 and 180 HV1.
Le Tableau 1 montre la composition en poids d’un alliage d’or 9 carats de référence issu de la demande EP 19193469 et de cinq alliages d’or 18 carats selon l’invention. Les valeurs colorimétriques et la dureté (HV1 ) mesurées sont aussi présentées dans le Tableau 1. Les valeurs colorimétriques L*a*b* ont été mesurées avec un spectrophotomètre KONICA MINOLTA CM-2600d avec un illuminant D65 et un angle d’observation de 10°. Les valeurs Delta E et Delta C représentent respectivement la variation de couleur et la variation chromatique par rapport à la référence 9K. Le Delta E est calculé sur base des valeurs La*b* comme suit avec Lref, a*ref et b*ref se référant aux valeurs de l’alliage d’or 9 carats de référence : Table 1 shows the composition by weight of a reference 9-carat gold alloy from application EP 19193469 and of five 18-carat gold alloys according to the invention. The colorimetric values and the hardness (HV1 ) measured are also presented in Table 1. The colorimetric L*a*b* values were measured with a KONICA MINOLTA CM-2600d spectrophotometer with illuminant D65 and an observation angle of 10 °. The Delta E and Delta C values respectively represent the color variation and the chromatic variation with respect to at the 9K benchmark. The Delta E is calculated based on the La*b* values as follows with Lref, a*ref and b*ref referring to the values of the reference 9 carat gold alloy:
Le Delta C est calculé sur base des valeurs a*b* comme suit : The Delta C is calculated based on the a*b* values as follows:
Tableau 1 Table 1
Les valeurs de a* et de b* sont très proches avec, pour le a*, des valeurs entre 6.4 et 7.8 pour une valeur de référence de 6.7 et avec, pour le b*, des valeurs entre 14.7 et 16.4 avec une valeur de référence de 15. A l’œil nu, la référence et les alliages d’or selon l’invention ont une même teinte bronze. L’évaluation du ternissement a été réalisée de visu après une exposition à l’air ambiant pendant plusieurs jours. Les alliages d’or 18 carats selon l’invention maintiennent leur belle teinte bronze sans ternissement contrairement à l’alliage d’or 9 carats selon l’art antérieur qui se ternit sensiblement. En outre, des tests comparatifs de décoloration ont été réalisés entre l’alliage d’or 18 carats selon l’invention et deux alliages d’or 18 carats selon l’art antérieur qui sont l’alliage 2N qui comporte en poids 75% d’or, 16% d’argent et 9% de cuivre et l’alliage 3N qui comporte en poids 75% d’or, 12.5% de cuivre et 12.5% d’argent. Les tests de décoloration ont été réalisés en immergeant les échantillons dans une solution d’eau saturée en chlorure de sodium à 70°C pendant plusieurs jours. La décoloration, définie par Delta E, est suivie par des mesures de colorimétrie réalisées dans les mêmes conditions que celles décrites ci-avant. Comme montré à la figure 2, on observe pour le nouvel alliage d’or une nette amélioration de la résistance à la décoloration par rapport aux alliages d’or 18 carats 2N et 3N selon l’art antérieur. The values of a* and b* are very close with, for a*, values between 6.4 and 7.8 for a reference value of 6.7 and with, for b*, values between 14.7 and 16.4 with a value of reference of 15. To the naked eye, the reference and the gold alloys according to the invention have the same bronze tint. The tarnish assessment was performed visually after exposure to ambient air for several days. The 18-carat gold alloys according to the invention maintain their beautiful bronze color without tarnishing, unlike the 9-carat gold alloy according to the prior art, which tarnishes noticeably. In addition, comparative discoloration tests were carried out between the 18 carat gold alloy according to the invention and two 18 carat gold alloys according to the prior art which are the 2N alloy which comprises by weight 75% of gold, 16% silver and 9% copper and the 3N alloy which comprises by weight 75% gold, 12.5% copper and 12.5% silver. The discoloration tests were carried out by immersing the samples in a solution of water saturated with sodium chloride at 70°C for several days. The discoloration, defined by Delta E, is monitored by colorimetric measurements carried out under the same conditions as those described above. As shown in Figure 2, a marked improvement in resistance to discoloration is observed for the new gold alloy compared to the 18-carat 2N and 3N gold alloys according to the prior art.
Les alliages selon l’invention ont une dureté HV1 à l’état recuit comprise entre 158 et 175 permettant aisément leur déformation. The alloys according to the invention have an HV1 hardness in the annealed state of between 158 and 175 allowing them to be easily deformed.
Le nouvel alliage d’or présente ainsi une belle teinte bronze avec un ternissement moindre dans le temps. The new gold alloy thus has a beautiful bronze tint with less tarnishing over time.

Claims

- 9 - REVEN D ICATIONS - 9 - REVEN D ICATIONS
1 . Alliage d’or comprenant en poids entre 73% et 77% d'or, entre 5% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 1 % et 4,9% de palladium et entre 10% et 18% de cuivre. 1 . Gold alloy comprising by weight between 73% and 77% gold, between 5% and 9.9% silver, between 1% and 4.9% palladium and between 10% and 18% copper.
2. Alliage d’or selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend en poids entre 73.5% et 77% d'or, entre 5.5% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 1 .5% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 1 1 % et 18% de cuivre. 2. Gold alloy according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises by weight between 73.5% and 77% gold, between 5.5% and 9.9% silver, between 1.5% and 4, 9% palladium and between 11% and 18% copper.
3. Alliage d’or selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend en poids entre 73.5% et 76.5% d'or, entre 5.5% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 1 .5% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 1 1 % et 16% de cuivre. 3. Gold alloy according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises by weight between 73.5% and 76.5% gold, between 5.5% and 9.9% silver, between 1.5% and 4.9% palladium and between 11% and 16% copper.
4. Alliage d’or selon l’une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend en poids entre 74% et 76.5% d'or, entre 6% et 9,9% d’argent, entre 2% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 12% et 16% de cuivre. 4. Gold alloy according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises by weight between 74% and 76.5% gold, between 6% and 9.9% silver, between 2% and 4 .9% palladium and between 12% and 16% copper.
5. Alliage d’or selon l’une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend en poids entre 74% et 76% d'or, entre 6% et 9.5% d’argent, entre 2% et 4,9% de palladium et entre 12% et 15.5% de cuivre. 5. Gold alloy according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises by weight between 74% and 76% gold, between 6% and 9.5% silver, between 2% and 4.9 % palladium and between 12% and 15.5% copper.
6. Alliage d’or selon l’une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend en poids maximum 0,05% d’un ou plusieurs éléments choisis parmi l’iridium, le rhénium et le ruthénium. 6. Gold alloy according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises by weight a maximum of 0.05% of one or more elements chosen from iridium, rhenium and ruthenium.
7. Alliage d’or selon l’une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu’il a dans l’espace colorimétrique CIELAB une valeur a* comprise entre 3 et 9 et une valeur b* comprise entre 12 et 18. 7. Gold alloy according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has, in the CIELAB colorimetric space, an a* value of between 3 and 9 and a b* value of between 12 and 18.
8. Alliage d’or selon l’une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu’il a dans l’espace colorimétrique CIELAB une valeur a* comprise entre 5.5 et 8 et une valeur b* comprise entre 14 et 17. 8. Gold alloy according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has, in the CIELAB colorimetric space, an a* value of between 5.5 and 8 and a b* value of between 14 and 17.
9. Alliage d’or selon l’une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu’il a dans l’espace colorimétrique CIELAB une valeur L comprise entre 80 et 90. 9. Gold alloy according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has in the CIELAB colorimetric space a value L between 80 and 90.
10. Alliage d’or selon l’une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu’il a une dureté HV1 comprise entre 140 et 185 et, de préférence, entre 155 et 180. 10. Gold alloy according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has an HV1 hardness of between 140 and 185 and, preferably, between 155 and 180.
11. Pièce d’horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie réalisée dans l’alliage d’or selon l’une des revendications précédentes. 11. Timepiece, jewelery or jewelery made from the gold alloy according to one of the preceding claims.
EP21749798.1A 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 Timepiece, ornament or jewellery item made of gold Pending EP4263890A1 (en)

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EP20215708.7A EP4015662A1 (en) 2020-12-18 2020-12-18 Gold timepiece or jewellery
PCT/EP2021/070732 WO2022128178A1 (en) 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 Timepiece, ornament or jewellery item made of gold

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EP2776597B1 (en) * 2011-11-08 2016-02-24 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Gold timepiece or jewellery part
WO2015038636A1 (en) * 2013-09-10 2015-03-19 Apple Inc. Crystalline gold alloys with improved hardness
CH715061A2 (en) * 2018-06-01 2019-12-13 Omega Sa Timepiece or jewelry or fine gold alloy jewelry.
EP3575421B1 (en) * 2018-06-01 2022-09-14 Omega SA Piece of watchmaking or jewellery made of an alloy based on gold
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EP4015662A1 (en) 2022-06-22

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