EP4231995A1 - Huile de paeonia x suffruticosa andrews pour la protection de la peau et des cheveux - Google Patents
Huile de paeonia x suffruticosa andrews pour la protection de la peau et des cheveuxInfo
- Publication number
- EP4231995A1 EP4231995A1 EP21810405.7A EP21810405A EP4231995A1 EP 4231995 A1 EP4231995 A1 EP 4231995A1 EP 21810405 A EP21810405 A EP 21810405A EP 4231995 A1 EP4231995 A1 EP 4231995A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- skin
- paeonia
- seeds
- shelled
- oil
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the use of an oil obtained from seeds of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews and/or the use of cosmetic compositions comprising such an oil, as well as a cosmetic method for the protection of the skin and/or hair , and in particular to prevent the reduction and/or to reinforce the epidermal barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin.
- Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews refers to a plant belonging to the Paeoniaceae family.
- Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews is a shrub that can reach 1.5 meters in height.
- the proximal leaves are bitemate; the leaflets, oval to oval lanceolate, glabrous on both sides, measure about 4.5-8 x 2.5-7 cm.
- the terminal leaflets are deeply trilobed, each lobe itself being bi or trilobed. Some lateral leaflets are di or trilobed.
- the flowers are solitary, terminal, single or double for some cultivars, 10 to 17 cm in diameter.
- the flower has 5 bracts, long elliptical, unequal; 5 green sepals, also unequal.
- the main vernacular name of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews is Tree Peony.
- the plant is native to China, where it has been cultivated for over a millennium for its ornamental and medicinal properties. It is now widely distributed in temperate countries for its ornamental properties. It exists in the form of many cultivars (1000 to 2000), and there are several subspecies including Paeonia x suffruticosa subsp. ostii (T. Hong & JXZhang) Halda; Paeonia suffruticosa subsp. atava (Brühl) SGHaw & Lauener, or Paeonia x suffruticosa subsp. rockii SGHaw & Lauener.
- the root of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews is listed in the Chinese Pharmacopoeia as Cortex Moutan. Preparations based on the root bark of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews are traditionally used orally in China mainly for their analgesic properties, in case of cardiovascular disease or blood stasis (Chinese Pharmacopoeia).
- the root of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews has been the subject of numerous pharmacological studies highlighting immunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antidiabetic and even hepatoprotective properties.
- Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews seed is primarily documented for its stilbene and oil content.
- Stilbenes in particular oligostilbenes among which suffruticosols A, B and C, represent more than 15% of the composition of the seed coat but are on the other hand very minor in the rest of the seed (0.3%).
- These stilbenes as well as extracts from the seed coat of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews have been the subject of fairly recent in tubo, vitro and vivo studies, having demonstrated their antioxidant, neuroprotective, antitumor and anti-inflammatory properties (Liu et al. , J Ethnopharmacol 2020, 260, 112983; Gao and He Oncology Letters, 2017, 13, 4371-4377; He et al., BMC Chemistry, 2019, 13:72).
- acetylcholinesterase and butyrylcholinesterase inhibitory activities of an extract of the seed coat of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews, as well as its main constituents (oligomers of resveratrol) have been demonstrated in vitro.
- the neuroprotective activity of the hydro-alcoholic extract (EtOH 70%) of the seed coat of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews has also been demonstrated in mice (Liu et al., J Ethnopharmacol 2020, 260, 112983).
- the antitumor activity of several oligostilbenes has been demonstrated on different human cancer cell lines (Almosnid et al., Int. J.
- Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews usually contains 20-40% oil.
- the unrefined oil of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews is essentially composed of triglycerides of unsaturated fatty acids (more than 80%), the majority of which are alpha linolenic acid (38 to 60%), linoleic acid (25 to 30 %) and oleic acid (22 to 26%).
- the oil also contains saturated fatty acids: palmitic acid (5-9%), stearic acid (1-2%).
- the crude oil also contains phytosterols (beta-sitosterol in particular) and tocopherols (y-tocopherol in particular) (Zhang et al., LWT - Food Science and Technology 2020, 118, 108725; Wu et al., Industril Crops & Products , 2020, 154, 112655).
- Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews seed oil obtained by different extraction processes were evaluated in tubo on DPPH and ABTS tests.
- Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews seed oil obtained by different extraction methods showed in vitro alpha-amylase and alpha-glucosidase inhibitory activity (Qu et al., Gracas y Aceites, 2017, 68 (2)el 92).
- Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews oil is an oil recognized as edible in China. Recent studies show the benefits associated with the consumption of this oil, including the prevention of cardiovascular diseases, the reduction of blood sugar, the prevention of diabetes, or even hepatoprotective or hypolipidemic effects (Han et al., Food Sci. Biotechnol, 2017, 26(6), 1703-1708).
- the skin is made up of different tissues that form a vital barrier for the body against the external environment. This barrier protects the organism against external attacks, in particular chemical, mechanical or infectious, and as such a certain number of defense reactions against environmental factors and/or xenobiotics occur at its level.
- the skin is made up of three main parts, a superficial one, the epidermis, the inner part, the dermis and a deeper layer, the hypodermis, which interact.
- the human epidermis is made up of four to five distinct layers (depending on the anatomical site) and four types of cells, which are keratinocytes, which are very predominant, melanocytes, Langerhans cells and Merkel cells. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the organism by the skin, in particular the role of protecting the organism from external aggressions. This property is called barrier function.
- the epidermal cells proliferate at the level of the deepest layer, the basal layer, and differentiate during their migration towards the upper layers to successively form the spiny layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal layers, the layer granular made up of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, grains of keratohyaline and finally the horny layer (or stratum corneum) which is the most superficial layer of the epidermis.
- the stratum corneum is made up of 20 to 30 layers of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called comeocytes. Comeocytes, constituent elements of the stratum corneum, are dead, flat cells containing water and keratin.
- the architecture of the stratum corneum is classically likened to a brick wall.
- the bricks represent the comeocytes.
- the comeocytes are surrounded by a lipophilic “cement” made up of lipids.
- the barrier function is mainly provided by the stratum corneum due to its structure and composition.
- the phospholipids whose role consists in developing the fluid structure of the cell membranes of the living layers of the epidermis, are gradually replaced by a mixture composed mainly of fatty acids, cholesterol and sphingolipids (ceramides). These lipids, which are organized into lamellar bilayers, form the intracellular cement of the stratum corneum.
- intercomeocyte lipids plays a key role in establishing the physicochemical properties of the stratum corneum and therefore in maintaining a physiological water gradient.
- the structure of these lipid bilayers has particular assembly properties, either hexagonal (gelled state) or orthorhombic (crystalline system whose unit cell is a rectangular parallelepiped), the latter being the majority (Bouwstra et al., Int J Cosmet Sci , 2008, 30, 388).
- the orthorhombic state represents the densest conformation and a balance between both of these states are required for optimal barrier properties.
- the latter has long been considered a simple layer of dead cells with no real function. In fact, it is metabolically active and largely provides the barrier function of the epidermis.
- the epidermis is not irrigated by any blood vessel and is only supplied by diffusion from the dermis.
- the dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support.
- the dermis is a connective tissue composed of different cell types including fibroblasts, lymphocytes and macrophages. Associated with these cells are collagen fibers and elastin, included in a gel called “ground substance”. Collagen and elastin are synthesized by fibroblasts. There are also leukocytes, mast cells and tissue macrophages. Finally, the dermis is crossed by blood vessels and nerve fibers, in particular sensory fibers free or connected to sensors.
- the cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis is ensured by the dermo-epidermal junction.
- the balance of the skin barrier and mucous membranes is dependent on complex biological mechanisms involving numerous growth factors, hormones, enzymes and mediators within the epidermis and dermis.
- hypodermis is the deepest and thickest layer of the skin. It is part of the continuity of the dermis without any real separation between the two tissues.
- the hypodermis forms a cushion that acts as a mechanical protection for the underlying structures. This fatty layer also helps insulate the body from thermal variations. If the dermis can be considered as a water reserve, the fats stored within the adipocytes of the hypodermis constitute an energy reserve.
- an alteration of the cutaneous barrier and/or a break in the continuity of the surface of the skin can occur in the presence of external aggressions such as irritating agents (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducers, concentrated solvents, gases or toxic fumes), mechanical stresses (friction, shocks, abrasion, tearing of the surface, projection of dust, particles, shaving or hair removal), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), or xenobiotics (undesirable microorganisms, allergens ) or internal attacks of the psychological stress type.
- irritating agents detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducers, concentrated solvents, gases or toxic fumes
- mechanical stresses force, shocks, abrasion, tearing of the surface, projection of dust, particles, shaving or hair removal
- thermal or climatic imbalances cold, dryness, radiation
- xenobiotics undesirable microorganisms, allergens
- internal attacks of the psychological stress type
- This alteration of the cutaneous barrier can in particular result in cutaneous discomfort, sensory phenomena and in particular unpleasant phenomena.
- This feeling of skin discomfort can manifest itself in particular by tingling, tightness, overheating, itching.
- These sensations of skin discomfort are more frequent in the most exposed areas of the body, namely the hands, feet, face and scalp. They can occur in particular on areas subject to certain daily or frequently renewed hygiene gestures such as shaving, hair removal, cleansing with toiletries or household products, the application of adhesives with bandages or patches, the fixing of prostheses or in the case of sporting, professional gestures or simply linked to the way of life and the use of clothing, tools or equipment generating localized friction. They can also be amplified by psychological stress.
- the alteration of the skin barrier can also promote the appearance of micro-chaps or micro-fissures, in particular on the hands, feet and lips.
- Intolerant skin When the skin has a very low sensitivity threshold, i.e. it reacts exacerbated to the slightest external aggression, we speak of intolerant skin, or even reactive intolerant skin. Intolerant skin is more vulnerable to external aggressions and is characterized by daily discomfort and strong irritability. Certain signs, more or less marked, make it possible to recognize them.
- the intolerant skin of the face presents for example redness and tingling, it pulls, heats or itches, it can also cause burning sensations. Intolerant patients generally have an allergic background and are therefore particularly sensitive to the components of cosmetic care.
- Sensitive skin is in fact skin prone to tingling, burning, tingling and itching, sometimes accompanied by redness. These feelings of discomfort appear exacerbated in reaction to stimuli that would not trigger irritation on so-called normal skin.
- This hyper-sensitivity of the skin results from a reduction in its tolerance threshold. The more sensitive the skin, the lower its tolerance threshold and when the tolerance threshold is at its lowest, we speak of intolerant skin. This hyper-sensitivity can be explained by different factors, but the most important is an alteration of the barrier function of the epidermis. This phenomenon then promotes dehydration of the skin and especially the penetration of potentially irritating agents.
- hydrolipidic film The skin is covered with a protective film, called hydrolipidic film. It is the outermost barrier, as well as the most fragile and easily disrupted. It consists largely of fatty substances excreted by the sebaceous glands and lipids resulting from cell degradation (squalene, waxes, triglycerides, free fatty acids, cholesterol esters) during keratinization of horny cells, as well as hydrophilic compounds, such as water from sweat, glycerol, urea, natural skin moisturizing factors, salts, metabolites of skin flora. This surface film is very exposed and very sensitive to environmental stresses, hygiene habits, and the condition of the skin as well as exposure to UV radiation.
- the microbiota can significantly modify the composition of sebum, degrade triglycerides and modify the ratios of free fatty acids, in particular during stress or illness. It is therefore important to preserve and even improve this skin barrier function, and all the more so for the most sensitive skin.
- the inventors have demonstrated that the oil from the seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews induces a cutaneous synthesis of lipids, in particular an endogenous synthesis of ceramides which allows, in addition to the effect nourishing and/or moisturizing for the skin or the hair, to reinforce the epidermal barrier function or to prevent a reduction in this epidermal barrier function but also to reinforce the protection of the skin against water loss and/or external attacks.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews for the protection of the skin and/or hair, and in particular to prevent a reduction and/or or reinforce the epidermal barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for the protection of the skin and/or hair, and in particular for preventing a reduction and/or reinforcing the epidermal barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic method for protecting the skin and/or the hair, and in particular for preventing a reduction and/or reinforcing the epidermal barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin, comprising the administration to a person in need thereof of an effective quantity of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews or of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
- the plant Paeonia x suffruticosa Andrews as well as its various varieties and subspecies (pstii, rockii, atava, spontanea, suffruticosa in particular) may be designated in an abbreviated manner by the term Paeonia suffruticosa.
- non-polar solvent a solvent chosen for example from heptane, hexane, limonene, halogenated hydrocarbons (for example chlorinated hydrocarbons in Ci to C3 such as chloroform or dichloromethane), supercritical CO2, a mixture of supercritical CO2 and ethanol and mixtures of these solvents. Mention may also be made of 100% biosourced solvents such as for example EcoXtract LIPOCOS (supplier Pennakem Europa).
- hydrophilic solvent is meant within the meaning of the present invention a solvent chosen for example from water, subcritical water, water-miscible alcohols such as for example ethanol, C3 to C5 glycols, glycerol, acetone, and mixtures thereof.
- oils contain a number of constituents responsible for undesired organoleptic characteristics (viscosity, turbidity, taste, odours) and their poor conservation, which it may be desirable to remove.
- Deodorization is meant within the meaning of the present invention a treatment aimed at eliminating the odor or the taste of a vegetable oil. Deodorization can be done by heating the oil at high temperature (for example between 150 and 300°C, in particular between 150 and 250°C, more particularly between 150 and 200°C or even between 180 and 240°C), under vacuum, with steam injection of water.
- high temperature for example between 150 and 300°C, in particular between 150 and 250°C, more particularly between 150 and 200°C or even between 180 and 240°C
- color measurement can be done according to Gardner's measurement.
- the Gardner color scale is a visual comparison scale for the color of clear and transparent liquids.
- Bleaching can be obtained by bringing the oil into contact with a bleaching earth (which will absorb the pigments (e.g. carotene, chlorophyll, etc.) responsible for the coloring) and heating (for example between 70 and 120° C) which can be done under vacuum.
- a subsequent filtration step will separate the oil from the now spent bleaching earth.
- Degumming is meant within the meaning of the present invention a treatment making it possible to reduce the phospholipid content of an oil. Degumming can be done by heating the oil between 50 and 90°C with injection of water then centrifugation (elimination of phospholipids) or by heating the oil between 50 and 90°C with the addition of acid (e.g. phosphoric acid) , generally 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of 75% phosphoric acid, (hydrolysis of phospholipids) then alkaline neutralization.
- acid e.g. phosphoric acid
- alkaline neutralization is meant within the meaning of the present invention an alkaline treatment making it possible to eliminate the free fatty acids as well as various residual compounds (phospholipids, compounds of protein nature, etc.) by transformation of these compounds into soaps by a saponification reaction, then separation of the latter. More specifically, the acidified oil (obtained during a prior degumming step, in particular by adding acid) is neutralized by an excess alkaline solution (preferably aqueous sodium hydroxide solution). The alkaline solution is added in particular until a pH of 7 is obtained. The addition of alkaline solution neutralizes the acid and saponifies the free fatty acids. The soaps formed are then removed during a washing step with water.
- alkaline solution preferably aqueous sodium hydroxide solution
- ambient temperature is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a temperature of from 15 to 40° C., preferably from 20 to 30° C., advantageously about 25° C.
- topical application is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an application to the skin (including the scalp), the mucous membranes and/or the hair.
- epidermal barrier is meant within the meaning of the present invention the cellular structures of the epidermis, in particular the tissue barrier formed by the comeocytes and the intercellular lipid cement.
- barrier function of the skin or "epidermal barrier function” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, the protective function of the epidermis, in particular against external aggressions, and the regulation of the insensible loss of water and ions .
- cosmetically acceptable is meant within the meaning of the present invention what is useful in the preparation of a cosmetic composition, which is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable and which is acceptable for cosmetic use, in particular by topical application to the skin or hair.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oil obtained from seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa for the protection of the skin and/or the hair, and in particular for preventing a reduction and/or reinforcing the epidermal barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oil obtained from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa for the protection of the skin and/or the hair, and in particular for preventing a reduction and/or reinforcing the epidermal barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa to reinforce the protection of the skin against water loss and/or external attacks.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa for nourish and/or moisturize the skin, including the scalp, and/or the mucous membranes, and/or the hair.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa to improve the repair of the skin, by reinforcing or restoring the barrier function, in particular by increase in the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa to prevent and/or reduce stinging, itching, tightness, redness, irritation of the skin.
- the oil from the seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa will be used more particularly topically, in particular by application to the skin, including the scalp, or the hair.
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa is obtained from the seed, preferably shelled, the seeds, preferably shelled, possibly being whole or in pieces.
- hulled seeds it is preferable to use hulled seeds so as to facilitate refining and obtain higher purity and at a lower cost.
- the use of hulled seeds also makes it possible to avoid introducing compounds present in the seed coat, such as stilbenes, into the oil.
- the oil according to the invention does not contain paeonol because such a compound is not present in the seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa.
- the oil can also be obtained from a culture of seed cells, preferably other than seed coat cells, of Paeonia suffruticosa.
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa can be obtained by pressing the seeds, shelled or unshelled, preferably shelled, or by extraction of the seeds, shelled or unshelled, preferentially shelled , with an apolar solvent.
- the oil can also be obtained by extraction of the seeds, preferably shelled, with a hydrophilic solvent in the presence of at least one enzyme (eg pectinase), and in particular of an enzymatic mixture such as pectinases for example.
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa can be obtained by pressing (also called the pressing step) of the seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa, in particular by cold pressing. , that is to say without heating, at ambient temperature, followed by a filtration step and optionally by a refining step, and in particular by a deodorization and/or bleaching and/or degumming step.
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa is obtained by pressing the seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa, followed by a step of filtration then refining (degumming and/or deodorization and/or bleaching).
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa can be obtained by pressing the seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa, in particular by cold pressing, followed by a step of extraction with an apolar solvent, then followed by a filtration step and optionally by a refining step, and in particular by a deodorization and/or decolorization and/or degumming step.
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa can be obtained by pressing the seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa, in particular by cold pressing, followed by a step of extraction with supercritical CO2 (possibly with the addition of ethanol as co-solvent), then followed by a filtration step and optionally a refining step, and in particular a deodorization and/or decolorization step and /or degumming.
- supercritical CO2 possibly with the addition of ethanol as co-solvent
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa can be obtained by extraction with an apolar solvent, and more particularly by supercritical CO2, with or without addition ethanol as co-solvent, seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa, followed by a filtration step and optionally a refining step, and in particular a deodorization and/or decolorization and/or of degumming.
- the extraction by supercritical CO2 is carried out at a temperature comprised between 30 and 50° C. at a pressure comprised between 200 and 600 bars, preferably with a supercritical CO2 flow rate comprised between 8 and 20 kg/h.
- the plant weight/volume of supercritical CO2 ratio can vary from 1/10 to 1/100 kg/L.
- the extraction can be carried out for a duration of 1 minute to 48 hours.
- the extraction can be repeated 2 to 3 times.
- the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for the protection of the skin and/or hair, and in particular to prevent a reduction and/or to reinforce the epidermal barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin.
- the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, to reinforce the protection of the skin against water loss and/or external attacks.
- the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising, at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, to nourish and/or moisturize the skin , including the scalp, and/or mucous membranes, and/or hair.
- the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, to improve the repair of the skin, by reinforcing or restoring the barrier function, in particular by increasing endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin.
- the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, to prevent and/or reduce stinging , itching, tightness, redness, skin irritation.
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa included in the cosmetic composition is prepared as described above.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.1 and 20% by weight, in particular between 0, 1 and 10% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 5% by weight, even more particularly between 0.1 and 2% by weight, even more particularly between 0.2 and 2% by weight, and even more particular between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight of oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa is present in the cosmetic composition at a content of approximately 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention are advantageously intended for topical application, in particular by application to the skin, including the scalp, or the hair.
- compositions according to the invention may thus be in the forms which are usually known for topical administration, that is to say in particular lotions, milks, emulsions, serums, balms, masks, creams, dispersions, gels, mousses, sprays, shampoos.
- the invention thus relates to cosmetic compositions according to one of the embodiments of the present invention, characterized in that they are in a clean form and suitable for topical application.
- compositions according to the invention in addition to the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa and a physiologically acceptable medium, may also contain surfactants, complexing agents, preservatives, antioxidants (such as tocopherols), stabilizers, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, humectants, emollients, trace elements, essential oils, perfumes, colorants, matting agents, chemical or mineral filters, moisturizing agents, thermal waters, etc
- the invention relates to a cosmetic method for protecting the skin and/or the hair, and in particular for preventing a reduction and/or reinforcing the epidermal barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin, comprising the administration, in particular topically, for example by application to the skin, to a person in need thereof of an effective quantity of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa or a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic method for reinforcing the protection of the skin against water loss and/or external aggressions, comprising the administration, in particular by topical route, for example by application to the skin , to a person in need of an effective amount of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa or of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least a cosmetically acceptable excipient.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic method for nourishing and/or moisturizing the skin, including the scalp, and/or the mucous membranes and/or the hair, comprising the administration, in particular by topical route, by for example by application to the skin or the hair, to a person in need of an effective quantity of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa or of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic method for improving the repair of the skin, by reinforcing or restoring the barrier function, in particular by increasing the endogenous synthesis of ceramides in the skin, comprising the administration , in particular topically, for example by application to the skin, to a person in need of an effective amount of an oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa or of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil derived from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
- the oil obtained from seeds, preferably shelled, of Paeonia suffruticosa is prepared as described above and the cosmetic composition is as described above.
- Example 1 Preparation of an oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa by supercritical CO2 extraction
- Deodorization o Deodorization temperature: 180°C, o Deodorization duration: 2 hours, o Stripping: steam (about 7kg/h), o Vacuum: 2-20mbar, and
- Example 2 Preparation of an oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa obtained by pressure and refined
- Bleaching o Bleaching natural clay Tonsil® 210 FF, o Bleaching temperature: 75°C, o Duration of bleaching: 1 hour, o Vacuum: 10-20mbar.
- Example 3 Effects of oils from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa on the synthesis of total lipids and ceramides on a model of reconstructed epidermis
- the main function of the epidermis is to protect the body by forming a vital protective barrier against external aggressions and against the risk of dehydration.
- the stratum corneum the outermost layer of the skin, is largely responsible for the barrier function.
- This stratum corneum is made up of comeocytes embedded in a lipid matrix, the very specific organization of which depends on the lipid composition. The latter is composed of free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides. Lipids form multiple layers superimposed on each other.
- Ceramides constitute a lipid family of great biological importance (50% of the lipid composition of the stratum corneum) because they allow the cohesion of the stratum corneum and, consequently, the formation of the skin barrier.
- ceramides can have a sphingosine (S), dihydrosphingosine (dS), phytosphingosine (P), or 6-hydroxysphingosine (H ) to which is bound an ⁇ -hydroxy (EO or O), a-hydroxy (A) or non-hydroxy (N) fatty acid with an alkyl chain of variable length.
- S sphingosine
- dS dihydrosphingosine
- P phytosphingosine
- H 6-hydroxysphingosine
- EO or O ⁇ -hydroxy
- A a-hydroxy
- N non-hydroxy
- EO ceramides have a unique structure because they have a very long ⁇ -hydroxy-acid chain of more than 34 carbon atoms linked to a linoleic acid and will have a preponderant role in the organization of the lamellar bilayers of the stratum corneum and consequently on the barrier function.
- the quantification of ceramides provides information on the integrity or otherwise of the barrier function and provides enhancement of dermo-cosmetic products.
- ceramides enter into the lipid composition of the stratum corneum. They alone represent about half of the intercomeocyte lipids. Ceramides will play a key role in the organization of lamellar bilayers and in particular esterified ultra-long chain ceramides such as EOS, EOP, EOH ceramides (Bouwstra et al., Biochim Biophys Acta 1996, 1300(3), 177-186). The importance of esterified ceramides, due to their very long carbon chains, has been demonstrated on the lamellar repeat distance and in the ordering of the chains (Kessner et al., Chem Phys Lipids 2010, 163(1), 42-50). In addition, the polar heads carried by the ceramides, in particular CER EOS and CER EOP, exert a considerable influence on these structural properties required for lipid organization and obtaining a functional lipid matrix.
- Non-esterified ceramides are in the majority and are also important for the barrier function but also for the hydration and nutrition of the skin. Studies have shown that, during winter, states of skin dryness have been correlated with a decrease in total ceramide levels and more particularly with NP and NH ceramide levels (Ishikawa et al., J Cosmet Dermatol 2013, 12 (1), 3-11).
- the aim of this study is to evaluate the impact of oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa on the synthesis of cutaneous lipids, and in particular on the synthesis of ceramides, major constituents of the stratum corneum from a lipid point of view. and to evaluate the nutritive effect for the treatment and the improvement of the barrier function.
- the ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol of the stratum corneum are analyzed by high-performance thin-layer chromatography (“High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography” or “HPTLC”).
- the model used in this study is a model of reconstructed epidermis resulting from skin resections from cosmetic surgery according to the method described by Erankart et al. (Erankart et al., Exp Dermatol 2012, 21(11), 871-875).
- the cells are isolated from skin resections, then cultured before being seeded on culture inserts immersed in culture medium, then the culture inserts are placed at the air/liquid interface in an incubator at 37°C in a humidified atmosphere with 5% CO2, to form the stratum corneum.
- Three reconstructed epidermis are used per condition (control, oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa, and positive control).
- Oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa 1st series of experiments: oil obtained according to example 1, tested at 1% in Tween® 20 at 0.01% in phosphate buffer pH 7.4 (PBS) ;
- the compounds to be tested are applied for the first time to the reconstructed epidermis (2mg for the Dexeryl® cream, 5ul of oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa at 1% in Tween® 20/PBS or 5ul of Tween® 20/PBS for control, per epithelium). A 24-hour incubation is carried out.
- a second application (same conditions) is carried out on the 10th day, with an incubation of 48 hours.
- a third application is carried out on the 13th day, with 24 hours of incubation.
- a fourth application is carried out on the 14th day (completely reconstructed epithelium), with 24 hours of incubation.
- the reconstructed epidermis are removed from the culture inserts, the stratum corneum is isolated using trypsin from the rest of the epidermis.
- the stratum corneum is then extracted using organic solvents (mixture of chloroform and methanol) in order to collect the lipids that constitute it.
- These lipids are then concentrated under liquid nitrogen before HPTLC/UV analysis. Ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol of the stratum corneum are analyzed by HPTLC/UV.
- the analytical conditions are detailed below, in particular in Table 1.
- Detection X scanner: 450 nm.
- Dexeryl® cream is known to increase lipid synthesis. Therefore, Dexeryl® cream was chosen as a positive control and was applied to the reconstructed epithelia at 2mg/epithelium.
- the positive control (dexeryl® cream) induces, as expected, a synthesis of lipids, in particular cholesterol derivatives and total ceramides.
- the oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to Example 1 has no effect on the synthesis of free fatty acids, induces a slight increase in cholesterol derivatives (+7%) but this increase does not reach the threshold of significance.
- the oil obtained from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to Example 1 significantly increases the synthesis of total ceramides (+15%, P ⁇ 0.05) compared to untreated reconstructed epidermis.
- ceramides are not present in the oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa, the increase in endogenous ceramides shows that the lipid components of the oil penetrate into the living epidermis and its constituents are used by cutaneous enzymes. to synthesize ceramides.
- Ceramides are present as the dominant lipids in the stratum corneum, and play a crucial role in barrier function and therefore limiting dehydration and transepidermal water loss. Based on the important properties of ceramides, emphasis has been placed on different subclasses of ceramides, produced by the application of oil derived from hulled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa. Indeed, these ceramides were not present in the formulation tested, the ceramides found in the stratum corneum therefore correspond only to the ceramides produced by the skin.
- Table 2 shows the percentage of induction of the ceramides produced after the application of the oil obtained from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to example 1 compared to the control.
- the oil obtained from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to example 1 compared with the untreated reconstructed epidermis (control), induces a synthesis of all the ceramides in this model of reconstructed epidermis.
- esterified ceramides such as ceramide CER EOS which exceeds 20% or ceramide CER EOP (16.3%).
- Ceramide CER EOS is reduced in cases of eczema and atopic dermatitis, and plays an important role in the barrier function and in particular the organization of the lamellar bilayers.
- the non-esterified ceramides are also increased, such as the ceramides CER NP and CER NS, which are the majority ceramides in the stratum corneum. Ceramide CER NP is the majority ceramide and contributes 8-13% to total ceramides (Van Smeden et al., J Lipid Res 2011, 52(6), 1211-1221).
- This ceramide plays an important role in the formation of lamellar bilayers, as well as the ceramide CER AdS which is very strongly induced (+48.6%, p ⁇ 0.05 vs untreated reconstructed epidermis) by the topical application of oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to Example 1 (Bouwstra et al., Biochim Biophys Acta 1996, 1300(3), 177-186). Ceramide NP along with ceramide NH are also implicated in skin dryness when the amounts of these ceramides decrease (Ishikawa et al., J Cosmet Dermatol 2013, 12(1), 3-11).
- the positive control (dexeryl® cream) induces, as expected, lipid synthesis, associated with an increase in free fatty acids, cholesterol derivatives and ceramides.
- the oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to Example 2 induces a slight increase in total cholesterol (+8.6%) and a decrease in the synthesis of free fatty acids (-18.6%) but these variations n do not reach the significance level.
- the oil obtained from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to Example 2 significantly increases the synthesis of total ceramides (+35.4%) compared to untreated reconstructed epidermis. This result leads to the conclusion that this oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa demonstrates a significant nourishing effect for the skin.
- Table 3 shows the percentage of induction of the ceramides produced by the application of the oil obtained from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to example 2. [Table 3]
- the oil from shelled seeds of Paeonia suffruticosa according to example 2 induces a statistically significant production of almost all the ceramides, in particular the ceramides which are major players in the barrier function.
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PCT/FR2021/051859 WO2022084638A1 (fr) | 2020-10-22 | 2021-10-22 | Huile de paeonia x suffruticosa andrews pour la protection de la peau et des cheveux |
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CN101601639A (zh) * | 2009-07-01 | 2009-12-16 | 张果果 | 一种牡丹保湿精油的组配及制作方法 |
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