EP4106883A1 - Composition cosmetique a base de cellules de rhodiola rosea - Google Patents
Composition cosmetique a base de cellules de rhodiola roseaInfo
- Publication number
- EP4106883A1 EP4106883A1 EP21823479.7A EP21823479A EP4106883A1 EP 4106883 A1 EP4106883 A1 EP 4106883A1 EP 21823479 A EP21823479 A EP 21823479A EP 4106883 A1 EP4106883 A1 EP 4106883A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- xylitol
- cells
- callus
- dedifferentiated
- weight
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
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- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000000130 stem cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000004659 sterilization and disinfection Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229960003495 thiamine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- DPJRMOMPQZCRJU-UHFFFAOYSA-M thiamine hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Cl-].CC1=C(CCO)SC=[N+]1CC1=CN=C(C)N=C1N DPJRMOMPQZCRJU-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000007966 viscous suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019156 vitamin B Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011720 vitamin B Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010374 vitamin B1 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011691 vitamin B1 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019160 vitamin B3 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011708 vitamin B3 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008979 vitamin B4 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011579 vitamin B4 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019158 vitamin B6 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011726 vitamin B6 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011912 vitamin B7 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011735 vitamin B7 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940011671 vitamin b6 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003643 water by type Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003313 weakening effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
Definitions
- the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition based on Rhodiola Rosea cells and Xilytol, in particular for improving and/or regulating the microbiological balance of the cutaneous flora of an area of the human skin area.
- Improving and controlling the cutaneous flora is an essential problem in cosmetics because it makes it possible to obtain a smoother and more youthful rendering of the skin.
- the skin is a complex barrier organ which hosts many microorganisms on its surface (bacteria, fungi, viruses). This microflora colonizing the stratum corneum constitutes the cutaneous microbiota. It is acquired at birth and evolves to reach a state of equilibrium. in adulthood. Its composition and abundance are influenced by genetics and lifestyle. This guarantees the uniqueness of the microbiota between individuals, which can thus be called a microbiological fingerprint. Microorganisms and their host live in perfect harmony. A balanced microbiota is harmless and beneficial for its host.
- the microbiota participates in the development and maintenance of the balance of its host. Microorganisms and the skin barrier act in synergy to protect the skin from external aggressions.
- the cutaneous flora plays a fundamental role since it gives the skin immunity and protection against potential pathogenic colonizers.
- the cutaneous microbiota is today considered as a real functional unit of the skin which contributes to its health and its beauty. However, this balance is constantly threatened by various factors, intrinsic and extrinsic, which can alter the composition of the microbiota and the barrier function of the skin. This microbiota imbalance, or dysbiosis, disrupts microbe-microbe and microbe-host cooperation and can lead to skin disorders. It is therefore essential to maintain the balance of the cutaneous ecosystem in order to display skin of exceptional quality.”
- Rhodiola extract in cosmetics has already been proposed.
- document JP2000/128729 describes a cosmetic composition that moisturizes and gives a "clear" effect to the skin comprises an extract of a plant of the Rhodiola family, of which the species Kiringen Keikeiten (Rhodiola algida/Aomi, Haibei, Kaisei), Karako Redkeiten (Rhodiola algida var.
- Rhodiola plant cells enriched with Xylitol there is no mention in this document of the use of Rhodiola plant cells enriched with Xylitol, in particular to control the skin microbiota.
- Anti-wrinkle compositions comprising an extract of Rhodiola Rosea as an anti-wrinkle agent to be used in combination with others are for example taught in CN103784376, CN103690406, CN105456114, etc. These documents show that the extracts of Rhodiola Rosea are not considered as such as sufficient to treat the problem of wrinkles.
- Rhodiola Rosea extract is therefore only considered effective in combination with another extract for anti-wrinkle treatment.
- the biological material is treated in a deep eutectic solvent (DES).
- DES deep eutectic solvent
- the eutectic solvent is for example the combination of a natural organic acid (such as citric acid, lactic acid, etc.) and a sugar or sugar alcohol (such as sucrose, glucose, sorbitol, xylitol, etc.) .
- a natural organic acid such as citric acid, lactic acid, etc.
- a sugar or sugar alcohol such as sucrose, glucose, sorbitol, xylitol, etc.
- the solvents comprise at least choline in molar excess and by weight relative to xylitol, and a large molar excess of water relative to the molar quantity of Xylitol.
- the process of extraction by deep eutectic solvent amounts to dissolving metabolites which are little or not soluble in water, this extraction step then requiring a large excess of NADES with respect to the quantity of metabolites to be dissolved.
- An extraction step goes against a step of enriching plant cells with xylitol, which allows a controlled application of the metabolites and of the xylitol present in the cells of Rhodiola rosea.
- Document CN106520665 describes the in vitro culture of Rhodolia Rosea cells in culture media enriched with plant hormones. This culture medium is then subjected to an extraction step using a solvent of the alcohol type. The product thus obtained is also an alcoholic extract.
- Document CN110037980 discloses an anti-wrinkle composition
- an anti-wrinkle composition comprising an extract of human stem cells, enriched with a lysate of Rhodiola rosea cells and a lysate of plum blossom cells. Lysates are prepared by membrane disruption and lyophilization. The anti-wrinkle composition does not contain uncrushed Rhodiola rosea cells. Comparative examples 1 to 6 of this document show the importance of the presence of all the ingredients in order to obtain good anti-oxidant properties and good anti-aging properties.
- the product "Super Moisture Balm” marketed in 2011 by Clarins Laboratories is a super moisturizing balm based on calcium hyaluronate and bison grass.
- the aqueous composition includes many compounds, including xylitol, glycerol and Rhodiola rosea root extracts.
- the subject of the invention is an at least partially aqueous cosmetic composition containing at least (a) dedifferentiated cells of Rhodiola Rosea unground enriched at least in xylitol and having in their internal volume defined by their cell wall xylitol, and (b) a carrier for cosmetic application.
- This composition is for topical application.
- the composition has one or more of the following characteristics:
- the composition contains at least (a) dedifferentiated and elicited unground Rhodiola Rosea cells enriched at least in xylitol in their internal volume defined by their cell wall, (b) xylitol outside the internal volume of the cells, (c) glycerin and (d) a carrier for cosmetic application.
- the Xylitol/glycerin weight ratio of the composition is from 1:5 to 1:25, preferably from 1:10 to 1:20.
- the composition also contains (e) a homogenate of dedifferentiated and elicited cells of Rhodiola Rosea.
- the ground material of dedifferentiated and elicited Rhodiola Rosea cells is a ground material of Rhodiola Rosea cells made in the presence of Xylitol and glycerin, the Xylitol/glycerin weight ratio being advantageously from 1:5 to 1:25, preferably from 1:10 to 1:20.
- the weight ratio between the unground, dedifferentiated and elicited cells of Rhodiola Rosea enriched at least in xylitol in their internal volume, and the ground material of dedifferentiated and elicited cells of Rhodiola Rosea is between 1:10 and 10:1.
- the dedifferentiated and elicited cells of unground Rhodiola Rosea enriched at least in xylitol in their internal volume defined by their cell wall present on their "cell wall at least one or more zones comprising xylitol and glycerin.
- the dedifferentiated and elicited cells of unground Rhodiola Rosea enriched at least in xylitol in their internal volume defined by their cell wall comprise at least phytoalexins and xylitol, the xylitol weight ratio! phytoalexins in the internal volume of the cells defined by their cell wall being greater than 0.3, advantageously greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1.
- the dedifferentiated, and advantageously elicited, cells of unground Rhodiola Rosea enriched at least in Xylitol and having in their internal volume defined by their cell wall Xylitol are cells prepared by separating from their culture medium, a callus comprising dedifferentiated cells , and advantageously elicited, and by mixing this Rhodiola Rosea cell callus with xylitol or an aqueous liquid composition containing xylitol, the aqueous callus weight ratio!
- Xylitol being greater than 1:1 (advantageously greater than 2:1, preferably between 5:1 and 10:1) and being adapted to the water content of the callus to avoid any crystallization of the xylitol mixed with the callus at a temperature between 15 and 40°C.
- the callus is mixed with powdered xylitol, with an aqueous callus/xylitol weight ratio adapted to ensure the total dissolution of the xylitol at a temperature of between 15 and 40° C. in the water contained in the callus.
- the callus after mixing with xylitol and glycerol is subjected to partial crushing, so that at least 50% by weight of the dedifferentiated cells of Rhodiola Rosea have a cell wall in an uncrushed state.
- the callus of dedifferentiated and advantageously elicitated cells optionally subjected to grinding, advantageously mixed with glycerol, is subjected to elicitation at atmospheric pressure, at a temperature of 20 to 40° C., and in air with a rate relative humidity of more than 50%, advantageously more than 75% enriched in CO2 so that its CO2 content is between 3 and 10% by volume, comprising at least two illumination stages in the length range of waves between 400 and 720 nm each with a duration of 20 to 120 minutes with an intensity of more than 1000 lux, advantageously more than 10,000 lux and separated from each other by a period of darkness of less than lOOlux of duration between 20 and 60 minutes.
- the callus of dedifferentiated and elicited cells of Rhodiola Rosea after drying at - 40°C and under a pressure of 100 Pa or less than 100 Pa, to obtain a dried callus having a moisture content of less than 0.5% by weight , contains more than 0.5% by weight of mixture of tyrosol and Salidroside based on the weight of the callus after drying.
- the dried callus contains more than 0.5% by weight of salidroside, preferably from 0.6% to 1.2% by weight, and more than 0.1% by weight of tyrosol, preferably from 0.2 % to 0.6% by weight, based on the weight of the callus after drying or dried callus.
- the composition contains a remainder of culture medium comprising vitamins, advantageously a B vitamin, in particular vitamin B7 and/or vitamin B1 and/or vitamin B3 and/or vitamin B4 and/or vitamin B6 and/or a mixture of such vitamins.
- vitamins advantageously a B vitamin, in particular vitamin B7 and/or vitamin B1 and/or vitamin B3 and/or vitamin B4 and/or vitamin B6 and/or a mixture of such vitamins.
- the composition contains from 0.1 to 10% by weight of dedifferentiated cells of unground Rhodiola Rosea enriched at least in xylitol and having in their internal volume defined by their cell wall xylitol.
- the dedifferentiated cells of Rhodiola Rosea before mixing with xylitol, are subjected to an elicitation cycle in their growth medium, said elicitation cycle comprises, and advantageously elicited, optionally subjected to grinding, advantageously mixed with glycerol is subjected to elicitation at atmospheric pressure, at a temperature of 20 to 40° C., and in air with a relative humidity rate of more than 50%, advantageously 75% or more than 75% enriched in CO2 so that its CO2 content is between 3 and 10% by volume, comprising at least two illumination stages in the wavelength range between 400 and 720nm each with a duration of 20 to 120 minutes with an intensity of more than 1000 lux, advantageously of more than 10,000 lux and separated from each other by a period of
- the composition is suitable for ensuring an improvement in the microbiological balance of the cutaneous flora, while advantageously ensuring an anti-aging or anti-aging action and/or a protective action against UV rays and/or an antioxidant and/or antibacterial activity .
- a further subject of the invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment of an area of the skin of a human being in order to improve and/or regulate the microbiological balance of the cutaneous flora of this area, in which one applies to said zone a cosmetic composition according to the invention as described above.
- This cosmetic treatment also advantageously provides an anti-aging or anti-aging cosmetic treatment and/or a cosmetic protective action against UV rays and/or an antioxidant cosmetic activity and/or an antibacterial cosmetic activity.
- Dedifferentiated plant cells of Rhodiola Rosea can be obtained from plant material derived from whole plant or plant part such as leaves, stems, flowers, petals, roots, fruits, their skin, the covering covering them, the seeds, the anthers, the sap, the thorns, the buds, the bark, the berries, and mixtures of these.
- the dedifferentiated plant cells preferably come from roots of Rhodiola Rosea, in particular from rootlets of Rhodiola Rosea.
- the dedifferentiated plant cells that can be used according to the invention can be obtained from plants obtained by in vivo culture or derived from in vitro culture.
- in vivo culture any culture of the conventional type, that is to say in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse or else above ground or in a hydroponic medium.
- in vitro culture all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially make it possible to obtain a plant or part of a plant.
- the selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material, free of contamination and available throughout the year, unlike plants cultivated in vivo.
- dedifferentiated plant cells obtained from in vitro culture are used.
- the elicitation of the cells is preferably carried out with the cells in a culture medium.
- the dedifferentiated plant cells that can be used according to the invention can be obtained by any method known from the prior art. In this respect, mention may be made of the methods described by E.F. George and P.D. Sherrington in Plant Propagation by tissue culture, handbook and directory of commercial laboratories (Exegetics Ltd 1984).
- the culture media which can be used according to the invention are those generally known to those skilled in the art. We can cite as examples the media of Gamborg, Murashige and Skoog, Heller, White etc.... We will find in "Plant Culture Media: formulations and uses” by EF George, DJM Puttock and HJ George (Exegetics Ltd 1987, volumes 1 & 2) for comprehensive descriptions of these media.
- the dedifferentiated plant cells cultured on Gamborg medium are prepared.
- Rhodiola Rosea cells were used.
- Step 1 Preparation of dedifferentiated Rhodiola Rosea cells cultured in a Gamborg-type in vitro culture medium.
- Rhodiola Rosea rootlet cells (rootlets with a diameter of less than 2 mm) were taken. This stage of preparation of dedifferentiated cells of Rhodiola Rosea was carried out in a conventional manner, with successive stages of transplanting, from rootlets.
- the culture medium used is a complete Gamborg B5 medium (G5893) marketed by Sigma-Aldrich (Germany). Other culture media are possible.
- Stage 2 subculture of the dedifferentiated cells of stage 1 in an in vitro culture medium for the development and congratulation of the cells.
- the development with elicitation of the cells of stage 1 was carried out in an in vitro medium (Gamborg B5) under a gaseous atmosphere containing oxygen and CO 2 (air enriched with CO 2 so that its CO 2 content is 8% by volume) according to a cycle comprising 100 periods of low light with a light level of less than 10 lux (from 1 to 5 lux) for 30 minutes in an atmosphere consisting of humid air (relative humidity of 85%) enriched with CO 2 (so that the CO 2 content is 8% by volume) and having a temperature of 30° C., these periods of development/elicitation under weak (or even without) light being separated from each other by a luminosity period of more than 100,000 lux (wavelength range between 400 and 720nm) for 1 hour in an atmosphere consisting of humid air (relative humidity of 85%) enriched with CO 2 (so that the CO content
- Stage 3 Extraction of the callus from the dedifferentiated and elicited cells in in vitro culture medium, by filtration of the culture medium followed by several stages of washing with water, carried out so as not to destroy the structure of the cell membranes. The washed callus was drained for 45 minutes.
- This cal (named CAL 1) will be used in part for the preparation of a comparative composition.
- a part of this callus was subjected to drying by lyophilization at ⁇ 40° C. for determination of the saliroside and tyrosol content of the callus after drying by UPLC chromatography (high performance liquid chromatography).
- the drying operation is carried out by freeze-drying under vacuum (100 Pa and less if necessary, temperature of -40° C.), to obtain a powdery product with a water content of less than 1.5% by weight. If the texture of the dried product is not optimal, it can be subjected to grinding.
- 0.3 g of powder is dissolved in 25 ml of a solvent consisting of 90% by weight water and 10% by weight acetonitrile. After dissolution, the solution is filtered through a filter at 0.45 ⁇ m.
- UPLC chromatography of the Rhodiola extract was analyzed using an ACQUITY UPLC chromatography system marketed by Waters Corporation, 34 Maple Street, Milford, MA 01757, USA.
- the chromatograph included a BEH C18 column, 100 mm in length, internal diameter of 2.1 mm, spherical packing particles of 1.8 ⁇ m in diameter.
- the volume of solution to be analyzed injected into the column was 2 ⁇ l.
- a solvent consisting of water and acetonitrile is then introduced into the column at a flow rate of 0.6 ml/minute at 75° C., for 14 minutes, while gradually increasing the concentration of acetonitrile (concentration varying gradually from 2.5% by weight to 100% by weight over 14 minutes).
- Tyrosol and salidroside are detected by UV at 221 nm at 30 seconds and 90 seconds. Based on this chromatography, it was possible to calculate a content of 0.8% by weight of salidroside and 0.3% by weight of tyrosol, relative to the dry weight of the callus.
- Step 4 Mixing with the drained callus of dedifferentiated and elicited cells of Rhodiola Rosea with a quantity of xylitol.
- the quantity of xylitol added is such that the ratio by weight Xylitol/weight of the drained callus (still moist) is 1:8.
- the mixture is carried out gently with a spatula until the xylitol has completely dissolved.
- Step 5 subculturing and elicitation the callus from step 4 is subcultured in a Gamborg B 5 culture medium to be subjected to elicitation.
- This elicitation was carried out in an in vitro medium (Gamborg B5) under a gaseous atmosphere containing oxygen and CO 2 (air enriched with CO 2 so that its CO 2 content is 8% by volume) comprising a cycle consisting of two radiation elicitation steps in the 400-720 nm range under an atmosphere consisting of humid air (relative humidity 85%) enriched with CO 2 (so that the CO 2 content is 8% by volume) and having a temperature of 30°C, each elicitation step having a duration of 90 minutes with a luminosity of 10000lux, said two elicitation steps being separated from each other by a resting step with a luminosity of 100lux (wave range between 400 and 720nm) for 45 minutes in an atmosphere made up of humid air (relative humidity of 85%) enriched with CO 2 (so
- Step 6 Extraction of callus from dedifferentiated and elicited cells in the presence of Xylitol in in vitro culture medium, by filtration of the culture medium followed by several washing steps with water, performed so as not to destroy the structure of the cell membranes elicited in the presence of xylitol. The washed callus was drained for 45 minutes.
- Step 7 Adding glycerol and mixing the callus with the glycerol
- a quantity of glycerol is added to the callus in the proportion of a quantity corresponding to 15 times the quantity of xylitol added in step 4.
- Rhodiola cells enriched in xylitol protected by glycerol and/or clusters of such cells protected by glycerol are obtained. This mixture is hereinafter referred to as "Rhodiola G”.
- Step 8 partial crushing of the callus with xylitol and glycerol.
- the grinding is partial to obtain a mixture of ground cells and unground cells.
- This partial grinding can for example be carried out by dividing the callus into two parts, a first part representing 20% by weight of the callus being subjected to grinding, while the second part representing 80% by weight of the callus is not subjected to grinding. .
- Step 9 addition of a carrier for cosmetic application to obtain a cosmetic composition for topical application.
- step 4 of the process described above the Xylitol had previously been mixed with choline citrate and water in the molar ratio 1:2:3 (compound XoCH from table 1 of EP 2575993), we would have obtained a mixture of a deep eutectic solvent NADES with a callus of plant cells. By the presence of this NADES solvent, an extraction outside the cells of compounds present in the cells was observed. The cells are thus depleted of active principles, such as phenolic compounds and flavanoids.
- step 4 does not make it possible to obtain dedifferentiated and elicited cells enriched in xylitol in their internal volume.
- the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, for example, from 0.5 to 15% by weight of a mixture of plant cells, ground and unground, of xylitol and of glycerin.
- a few non-limiting examples of such cosmetic compositions for topical use will be given below.
- Examples 1A and 1B Dispersion of Rhodiola XG or of Rhodiola G in a cosmetic base
- Rhodiola X-G or Rhodiola G is dispersed in the following base:
- Rhodiola X-G or Rhodiola G 2.00% fragrance 0.15% carbomer 0.10 TOTAL 100.00%
- the composition obtained shows a homogeneous dispersion of the cells in the cream and a very fine texture.
- the property study showed the absence of germs and fungi as well as a remarkable stability of the composition.
- Examples 2A and 2B Dispersion of Rhodiola X-G or of Rhodiola G in another cosmetic base
- Rhodiola X-G or Rhodiola G is dispersed in the following base: - water 46.59% sodium laureth sulfate (25%) 36.40%
- compositions obtained show a homogeneous dispersion of the cells.
- the property study showed the absence of germs and fungi as well as a remarkable stability of the compositions.
- Lotions containing only Rhodiola X-G or Rhodiola G demineralized water, propylene glycol, preservative, fragrance; and active product: Rhodiola X-G or Rhodiola G.
- Rhodiola X-G or Rhodiola G in the form of a viscous suspension or a gel.
- compositions for topical use contain the various constituents, the contents of which can be varied in depending on the applications, mixed in the aqueous phase alone, as is usually done by those skilled in the art in this field.
- Rhodiola X-G or Rhodiola G depends on the nature of the composition for topical use and the desired application. It is advantageously between 0.01 and 5%, but can reach up to 25%.
- the invention is not limited to the embodiments given above and it is possible to produce the composition for topical use in other forms, such as oil, ointment, lacquers, make-up (foundation, powder , lipstick, pencil, mascara or cosmetic product making it possible to highlight the eyes by coloring the eyelashes and/or giving them more length or apparent thickness, eye shadow) which also come within the scope of the invention.
- the microbial flora of human skin is very complex, including aerobic, anaerobic, gram positive and gram negative germs, yeasts.
- the cutaneous flora includes on the one hand the natural, resident and non-pathogenic flora, and on the other hand, an exogenous flora which develops during a weakening of the natural defenses, a wound, an infection, etc.
- the resident or natural skin flora is composed of several species, including: Staphylococci (S. epidermis, S.hominis, S.haemolyticus, S. aureus), Corynebacteria (C.lipophiles; C.urealyticum; C.minutissimum; C.jeikeium ), Propionibacterium (P. acnes; P.avidum; P. granulosum, P.propionicum), Micrococci (M.luteus; M.varians), Streptococci (groups A, B and G), Brevibacteria.
- Skin disorders are linked to the disruption of the ecological balance of the resident flora following the colonization of the skin by exogenous germs or the abnormal proliferation of an endogenous strain, this abnormal profiling may be the consequence of use too frequent bactericidal, antimicrobial, anti-virucidal, anti-fungal, antibiotic compositions, etc. non-selective, attacking the pathogenic flora and the resident flora indiscriminately.
- non-selective compositions is a source of development of resistant exogenous strains.
- the proliferation of exogenous strains results in various phenomena, including: the development of body odors, in particular axillary and foot odors (mainly C. xerosis for axillary odors and B.
- This face lotion was used to prepare the following test lotions:
- Comparative lotion 1 base lotion added with Xylitol to obtain a Xylitol content of 1% by weight.
- LCOMP1 base lotion added with Xylitol to obtain a Xylitol content of 1% by weight.
- xylitol was mixed and ground with CAL 1, with a large excess of xylitol relative to the weight of CALL This mixture was filtered to recover a viscous liquid phase containing xylitol. This liquid phase was used to prepare the base lotion to which xylitol was added to obtain a content of 1% by weight of xylitol in the lotion.
- Comparative lotion 2 base lotion added with CAL I to obtain a CAL 1 content in the lotion of 8% by weight.
- LCOMP2 base lotion added with CAL I to obtain a CAL 1 content in the lotion of 8% by weight.
- Comparative lotion 3 base lotion added with CAL 1 to obtain a content of CAL 1 in the lotion of 8% by weight, and added with glycerine to obtain a content of 15% by weight.
- Lotion according to invention 1 base lotion added with "Rhodiola XG” in sufficient quantity to obtain a lotion with a content of 1% by weight of Xylitol.
- Lotion according to the invention 2 base lotion added with "Rhodiola G” in sufficient quantity to obtain a lotion with a content of 0.5% by weight of Xylitol.
- the face is washed with a pH 7.5 liquid soap, then rinsed and dried.
- Skin pH is determined using a specific surface electrode. A sample of the microbial flora from the face is taken using agar plates for each volunteer.
- the volunteers were divided into five groups, the reference group which will be treated with the LR lotion, the comparative group 1 which will be treated with the LCOMP1 lotion, the comparative group 2 which will be treated with the LCOMP2 lotion, the invention group 1 which will be treated with Rhodiola XG lotion, and invention group 2 which will be treated with Rhodiola G lotion.
- the treated areas were contacted (1 hour after treatment) with exogenous Corynebacterium xerosis strains to determine their proliferation. These exogenous strains after the test were killed by an antibiotic cream.
- the treated area is limited to 4cm 2 , so as to be able to observe any differences with the untreated area for the same volunteer.
- Measurements of the pH of the skin before treatment, and then of the treated area, are carried out at various times after treatment, namely 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours and 16 hours after treatment.
- samples of microbes are taken from the treated areas at various times, namely 2, 4, 8 and 16 hours after treatment.
- washing is carried out with liquid soap of pH 7.5.
- the time required for the treated area to regain its initial pH is then determined. before treatment. 1, 2 and 4 hours after washing, the skin flora of the washed treated area is examined.
- the cutaneous microbial flora consisted essentially of the following species: Staphylococci (S. epidermis, S. hominis, S. haemolyticus, S. aureus), Corynebacteria (C. lipophiles; C. urealyticum; C. minutissimum;
- the cutaneous bacterial flora for the areas that will be subjected to treatment did not include Corynebacterium xerosis.
- the pH of the treated area increases rapidly by one to two units, moreover a proliferation of the Corynebacterium xerosis strain is visible 4 hours after the start of the treatment.
- the resident skin microbial flora was disturbed.
- the test was interrupted and the treated area was subjected to a washing, rinsing and drying step. 3 hours after this washing step, the pH of the treated area returned to a value of 5.2-5.5.
- the pH of the treated area increases rapidly by one to two units, moreover a proliferation of the Corynebacterium xerosis strain is visible 8 hours after the start of the treatment.
- the resident skin microbial flora was disturbed.
- the test was interrupted after 8 hours and the treated area was subjected to a washing, rinsing and drying step. 2 hours after this washing step, the pH of the treated area returned to a value of 5.2-5.5.
- the treated and washed area was treated with antibiotic cream.
- the pH of the treated area increases rapidly by one to two units, moreover a proliferation of the Corynebacterium xerosis strain is visible 8 hours after the start of the treatment.
- the resident skin microbial flora was disturbed.
- the test was interrupted and the treated area was subjected to a washing, rinsing and drying step. 2 hours after this washing step, the pH of the treated area returned to a value of 5.2-5.5.
- the treated and washed area was treated with antibiotic cream.
- the pH of the treated zone increases by one unit. After 16 hours, no proliferation of the Corynebacterium xerosis strain was observed. The resident microbial cutaneous flora remained close to the original flora. The test was interrupted after 16 hours and the treated area was subjected to a washing, rinsing and drying step.
- the pH of the treated and washed area returned to a value of 5.2-5.5.
- the lotion according to the invention 1 therefore effectively protects the resident skin flora, while having a protective action against exogenous microorganisms.
- the pH of the treated zone increases by 0.5 units.
- a slight proliferation of the Corynebacterium xerosis strain was observed.
- the resident microbial cutaneous flora remained close to the original flora.
- the test was interrupted after 12 hours and the treated area was subjected to a washing, rinsing and drying step.
- the lotion according to the invention 2 therefore effectively protects the resident skin flora, while having a protective action against exogenous microorganisms.
- the duration of protective action of the lotion according to the invention 2 with Rhodiola G was lower than that of the lotion according to the invention
- the skin treated with the lotion of invention 1 or 2 had a more supple, softer, more hydrated appearance than the untreated skin, and the treatment did not cause redness and irritation.
- the inhibitory or non-inhibiting action of the lotions was evaluated on the growth of Corynebacterium germs. xerosis (main germ responsible for bad body odor), Staphylococcus epidermidis (beneficial bacteria of the microbial flora of the skin), and on the Propionibacterium acnes germ (germs present on hyperseborrheic skin - responsible for acne outbreaks).
- the germs were each placed in an agar culture medium. Wells were operated for each culture dish, each well being intended to receive the same quantity of lotion (LR or LCOMP1 or LCOMP2 or Rhodiola XG. No inhibitory action or a weak inhibitory action was observed on Corynebacterium. xerosis, Staphylococcus epidennidis, and on the Propionibacterium acnes germ, for the LR lotion.
- Rhodiola G lotion and the Rhodiola X-G lotion a marked and very marked inhibitory effect is observed respectively for Corynebacterium xerosis and Propionibacterium acnes, and no inhibitory effect for Staphylococcus epidermidis. This makes it possible to preserve the resident cutaneous flora, while having an action on Corynebacterium xerosis, and Propionibacterium acnes.
- skin was reconstituted associated with a mixture of Staphyloccocus aureus, Staphyloccoccus epidennidis, Corynebacterium xerosis and Cutibacterium acnes bacteria.
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Abstract
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Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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BE20200127A BE1028846B1 (fr) | 2020-12-02 | 2020-12-02 | Composition cosmétique à base de cellules de Rhodiola Rosea |
EP21315251 | 2021-11-29 | ||
PCT/EP2021/025471 WO2022117230A1 (fr) | 2020-12-02 | 2021-11-30 | Composition cosmetique a base de cellules de rhodiola rosea |
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EP4106883A1 true EP4106883A1 (fr) | 2022-12-28 |
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JP3657789B2 (ja) | 1998-10-20 | 2005-06-08 | 株式会社活亜興 | 化粧料 |
CN101444456A (zh) | 2007-11-26 | 2009-06-03 | 天津市金圭谷木糖醇有限公司 | 一种含有木糖醇的化妆品保湿剂 |
NL2004835C2 (en) | 2010-06-07 | 2011-12-08 | Univ Leiden | Process for extracting materials from biological material. |
CN103690406A (zh) | 2012-09-27 | 2014-04-02 | 张瑞萍 | 一种纯天然祛斑化妆品 |
CN103784376A (zh) | 2012-10-29 | 2014-05-14 | 烟台大洋制药有限公司 | 一种收缩毛孔化妆品 |
CN105456114A (zh) | 2015-12-15 | 2016-04-06 | 青岛玻莱莫斯新材料技术有限公司 | 一种含有红景天提取物、何首乌提取物和灵芝提取物的美白化妆品 |
CN106520665A (zh) | 2016-11-15 | 2017-03-22 | 天津市博爱生物药业有限公司 | 一种用于红景天细胞的培养基 |
FR3077205B1 (fr) | 2018-01-31 | 2020-06-05 | Societe Industrielle Limousine D'application Biologique | Extrait de metschnikowia reukaufii et utilisation en cosmetique |
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