EP4076672A1 - Fond de teint ultra-haute tenue - Google Patents
Fond de teint ultra-haute tenueInfo
- Publication number
- EP4076672A1 EP4076672A1 EP20851202.0A EP20851202A EP4076672A1 EP 4076672 A1 EP4076672 A1 EP 4076672A1 EP 20851202 A EP20851202 A EP 20851202A EP 4076672 A1 EP4076672 A1 EP 4076672A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- weight
- powders
- mixtures
- composition
- chosen
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
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- 150000004767 nitrides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IOQPZZOEVPZRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octan-1-amine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCN IOQPZZOEVPZRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OEIJHBUUFURJLI-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,8-diol Chemical compound OCCCCCCCCO OEIJHBUUFURJLI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N oleyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- HVAMZGADVCBITI-UHFFFAOYSA-M pent-4-enoate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CCC=C HVAMZGADVCBITI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- GVKCHTBDSMQENH-UHFFFAOYSA-L phloxine B Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=C(Cl)C(Cl)=C(Cl)C(Cl)=C1C1=C2C=C(Br)C(=O)C(Br)=C2OC2=C(Br)C([O-])=C(Br)C=C21 GVKCHTBDSMQENH-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- ZYIBVBKZZZDFOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N phloxine O Chemical compound O1C(=O)C(C(=C(Cl)C(Cl)=C2Cl)Cl)=C2C21C1=CC(Br)=C(O)C(Br)=C1OC1=C(Br)C(O)=C(Br)C=C21 ZYIBVBKZZZDFOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- LGRFSURHDFAFJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N phthalic anhydride Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(=O)OC(=O)C2=C1 LGRFSURHDFAFJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001083 polybutene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000223 polyglycerol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000193 polymethacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000098 polyolefin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000019422 polyvinyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003141 primary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- ZQMAPKVSTSACQB-UHFFFAOYSA-N prop-2-enyl dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC=C ZQMAPKVSTSACQB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HPCIWDZYMSZAEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N prop-2-enyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC=C HPCIWDZYMSZAEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AOHJOMMDDJHIJH-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylenediamine Chemical compound CC(N)CN AOHJOMMDDJHIJH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KIDHWZJUCRJVML-UHFFFAOYSA-N putrescine Chemical compound NCCCCN KIDHWZJUCRJVML-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000001054 red pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000518 rheometry Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon monoxide Inorganic materials [Si-]#[O+] LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000036548 skin texture Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010561 standard procedure Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004936 stimulating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- RINCXYDBBGOEEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N succinic anhydride Chemical compound O=C1CCC(=O)O1 RINCXYDBBGOEEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZIBGPFATKBEMQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCO ZIBGPFATKBEMQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UUJLHYCIMQOUKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[oxo(trimethylsilylperoxy)silyl]peroxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)OO[Si](=O)OO[Si](C)(C)C UUJLHYCIMQOUKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012178 vegetable wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001567 vinyl ester resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/044—Suspensions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin, exhibiting improved makeup hold under extreme conditions (sebum, sweat). We are talking about "ultra-high hold" makeup.
- Cosmetic makeup compositions such as for example foundations, are commonly used to provide color and an aesthetic effect to the skin, in particular to the face. These compositions generally include oils (comfort), pigments (color) and fillers (mattness), but one of the problems with makeup products is the hold of the makeup over time, in particular good color retention, dullness, and / or homogeneity. And this problem is even more important for skin presenting an increased secretion of sebum (skin with an oily tendency and / or skin subjected to intensive physical exercise) and skin subjected to extreme conditions in temperature and / or humidity.
- An aim of the invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic composition for making up the skin, in particular a foundation in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, exhibiting improved hold and uniformity, in particular sought after for extreme conditions (hot and humid climates or intensive physical exercise).
- Outfit corresponds to makeup that is still present and satisfactory at the end of the day.
- Good hold corresponds to a foundation that does not require touch-ups during the day.
- Uniformity or homogeneity is the ability of the foundation to stay even all day, that is, it does not clump together, does not form areas of different thickness and does not get absorbed in places at the end of the day.
- a cosmetic composition for making up the skin in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least : a) an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) a or several absorbent fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 30ml / 100g, and e) pigments.
- W / O water-in-oil
- the composition of the invention comprises a non-volatile oil content of less than or equal to 5%, in particular less than or equal to 2% by weight, or even less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight. of said composition, or even is devoid of non-volatile oils.
- the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up the skin comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined in the invention.
- the composition is applied to a skin with an oily tendency and / or a skin subjected to hot and / or humid atmospheric conditions, and / or to sweating conditions linked to an exercise.
- intensive physical means according to the invention a skin having a shiny complexion and / or a perception of discomfort, surface irregularities, in particular follicular orifices or dilated pores, an imperfect skin texture, and / or skin exhibiting poorer makeup hold.
- intensive physical exercise is meant a physical exercise stimulating perspiration and the secretion of sebum, for example the practice of a sport.
- a first subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for making up the skin in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion
- a cosmetic composition for making up the skin in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion
- W / O water-in-oil
- emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) one or more absorbent fillers having a setting of oil greater than or equal to 30ml / 100g, and e) pigments.
- W / O water-in-oil
- physiologically acceptable medium is meant according to the invention that the medium is compatible with human keratin materials, and has a pleasant appearance (feel, color and / or odor) without generating discomfort on application to said materials. keratin.
- keratin materials is meant according to the invention the skin of the face and / or the neck.
- the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention generally represents from 1 to 70% by weight, in particular from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
- water-soluble solvent means a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).
- C 1 -C 5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;
- C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;
- polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and their mixtures, and their mixtures.
- hydrophilic gelling agents antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
- a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C32 polyols, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a content total ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the composition of the invention will comprise at least ethanol, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, conferring a fresh effect.
- composition will advantageously additionally comprise at least polyols and / or glycols in a total content ranging from 3 to 12% by weight, in particular 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for a promoting moisturizing effect. obtaining a radiance of the complexion ('glowy' effect) without a greasy effect.
- aqueous polyurethane dispersion according to the invention is as described in particular in patent application EP1970391 filed in the name of Bayer MaterialScience LLC.
- the dispersed polyurethane comprises the reaction products of:
- Ri represents a divalent radical of a dihydroxyl compound, in particular a hydrocarbon radical derived from a polyesterpolyol, and in particular from a polyesterdiol,
- R 2 represents a hydrocarbon radical derived from an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate
- R 3 represents a hydrocarbon radical derived from a low molecular weight diol
- n 0 to 5, and m is> 1;
- R 4 represents an alkylene or alkylene oxide radical unsubstituted by ionic or potentially ionic groups
- R 5 represents an alkylene radical substituted by ionic or potentially ionic groups.
- the radical R1 is obtained by (poly) condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid with at least one diol, said dicarboxylic acid being preferably chosen from adipic acid, the diol preferably being chosen from hexanediol, neopentylglycol , and their mixtures;
- the radical R2 is derived from an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate, and in particular a diisocyanate chosen from 1, 6-hexamethylenediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate and dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof;
- the R3 radical is derived from neopentyl glycol
- the chain extender according to formula Chem.2 is chosen from ethylene diamine, diethanolamine and mixtures thereof;
- the chain extender according to formula Chem.3 is chosen from diaminosulfonates, and preferably is the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) -2-aminoethanesulfonic acid.
- Compounds suitable for providing the polyhydroxyl, preferably dihydroxyl, R 1 radical are divalent compounds, preferably with two hydroxy groups and having average molecular weights of from about 700 to about 16,000, and preferably from about 750 to about 5,000. .
- polyesterpolyols preferably polyesterdiols, and mixtures thereof.
- the polyesterdiol (s) can generally be prepared from aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids or their anhydrides (eg: succinic, fumaric, glutaric, 2,2-dimethylglutaric, adipic, itaconic, pimelic, suberic, azelaic, sebacic, maleic, malonic, 2,2-dimethylmalonic, nonanedicarboxylic, decanedicarboxylic, dodecanedioic, 1, 3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic, 1, 4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic, 2,5-dicarboxylic-thborylpropiodidiodine , 5-naphthalenedicarboxylic, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic, phthalic, terephthalic, is
- the dicarboxylic acid is adipic acid.
- the polyesterdiols can also be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers of lactones, which are preferably obtained by addition reactions of lactones or mixtures of lactones, such as butyrolactone, ⁇ -caprolactone and / or methyl-c -caprolactone with the appropriate polyfunctional, preferably difunctional initiator molecules, such as for example the dihydric alcohols mentioned above.
- lactones or mixtures of lactones such as butyrolactone, ⁇ -caprolactone and / or methyl-c -caprolactone
- the corresponding polymers of ⁇ -caprolactone are preferred.
- polyesterpolyol radical R 1 preferably polyester diol
- the polyesterpolyol radical R 1 can be obtained advantageously by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids, such as adipic acid, with polyols, in particular diols, such as hexanediol, neopentylglycol, and mixtures thereof.
- Polyisocyanates suitable for providing the hydrocarbon radical R2 include organic diisocyanates having a molecular weight of from about 112 to 1000, and preferably from about 140 to 400.
- Preferred diisocyanates are those represented by the general formula R2 (NCO) 2 given above, wherein R2 represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent araliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising 7 to 15 carbon atoms or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon group comprising 6-15 carbon atoms.
- suitable organic diisocyanates include tetramethylenediisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylenediisocyanate, dodecamethylenediisocyanate, cyclohexane-1, 3-diisocyanate and cyclohexane-1, 4-diisocyanate, 1-isocyanato-3-isocyanate-3-isocyanate-3-diisocyanate, and , 5,5-trimethylcyclohexane (isophoronediisocyanate or I PDI), bis- (4- isocyanatocyclohexyl) -methane, 1, 3-bis (isocyanatomethyl) -cyclohexane and 1, 4- bis (isocyanatomethyl) -cyclohexane, bis - (4-isocyanato-3-methyl-cyclohexyl) -methane.
- diisocyanates are aliphatic and cycloaliphatic diisocyanates. Particularly preferred are 1,6-hexamethylenediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate and dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
- low molecular weight diols R 3 can allow a ri gidif ication of the polymer chain and is optional.
- low molecular weight diols means diols having a molecular weight of about 62 to 700, preferably 62 to 200. They may contain aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic groups. Preferred compounds contain only aliphatic groups.
- the diols used preferably have up to 20 carbon atoms and can be chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propane-1, 2-diol, propane-1, 3-diol, butane-1, 4- diol, butylene- 1, 3-glycol, neopentylglycol, butylethylpropanediol, cyclohexanediol, 1, 4- cyclohexanedimethanol, hexane-1, 6-diol, bisphenol A (2,2- bis (4- hydroxyphenyljpropane ), hydrogenated bisphenol A (2,2-bis (4-hydroxycyclohexyljpropane), and mixtures thereof.
- R 3 is derived from neopentylglycol.
- low molecular weight diols can contain ionic or potentially ionic groups.
- Suitable low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are those disclosed in US Patent 3,412,054.
- Preferred compounds include dimethylolbutanoic acid (DMBA), dimethylolpropionic acid (DMBA) and caprolactone-polyesterdiol containing. carboxyl.
- DMBA dimethylolbutanoic acid
- DMBA dimethylolpropionic acid
- caprolactone-polyesterdiol containing. carboxyl Preferably, low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are not used.
- the chain of the prepolymer A) is extended using two classes of chain extender B) and C) described below.
- Alkylenediamines such as hydrazine, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1, 4-butylenediamine and piperazine.
- DPA-DEG dipropylaminediethylene glycol
- DPA-etheramines dipropylaminepropylene glycol, dipropylaminedipropylene glycol, dipropylaminetripropylene glycol, dipropylaminepoly (propylene glycol), dipropylaminethylene glycol, dipropylaminepoly (ethylene propylene glycol), dipropylamine-1-di-amine-1-dipropylediamine-1, 3-dipropylediamine-1 , 3-propanediol, dipropylamine-1, 4-butanediol, dipropylamine-1, 3-butanediol, dipropylamine-1, 6-hexanediol and dipropylaminecyclohe
- DPA-etheramines dipropylaminediethylene
- the first class chain extender is selected from ethylenediamine, diethanolamine and mixtures thereof.
- the second class of chain extenders includes compounds having the formula:
- HsH-Rs-HHi in which Rs represents an alkylene radical substituted by ionic or potentially ionic groups. These compounds have one ionic or potentially ionic group and two groups which are reactive with isocyanate groups.
- the ionic group or the potentially ionic group may be selected from the group consisting of tertiary or quaternary ammonium groups, groups convertible into such a group, a carboxyl group, a carboxylate group, a sulfonic acid group and a sulfonate group.
- Specific compounds include diaminosulfonates, such as for example the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) -2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (AAS) or the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) -2-aminopropionic acid.
- R 5 represents an alkylene radical substituted by sulfonic acid or sulfonate groups, more preferably linked to the sodium salt of N- (2-aminoethyl) - 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (AAS).
- AAS N- (2-aminoethyl) - 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid
- the polyurethane according to the invention can also comprise compounds which are located in each case at the ends of the chains and terminate said chains. These chain terminations can be derived from compounds having the formula
- R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkylene radical optionally having a hydroxyl end and R7 represents an alkylene radical optionally having a hydroxyl end.
- Suitable compounds include compounds such as monoamines, especially secondary monoamines or monoalcohols.
- Examples include: methylamine, ethylamine, propylamine, butylamine, octylamine, laurylamine, stearylamine, isononyloxypropylamine, dimethylamine, diethylamine, dipropylamine, dibutylamine, N-methylaminopropylamine, diethyl (methyl) aminopropylamine, morpholine, piperidine, diethanolamine and suitable substituted derivatives thereof, amide amines of primary diamines and monocarboxylic acids, monocetimes of primary diamines, primary / tertiary amines such as N, N-dimethylamino-propylamine and the like.
- the chain terminating alcohols can be chosen from C 1 -C 10 alcohols, such as methanol, butanol, hexanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, isodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, Amino alcohols such as l aminomethylpropanol (AMP) are also suitable.
- C 1 -C 10 alcohols such as methanol, butanol, hexanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, isodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof
- Amino alcohols such as l aminomethylpropanol (AMP) are also suitable.
- diethylene glycol is used to obtain the polyurethane either as a low molecular weight diol or as part of the nonionic chain extender via the use of dipropylamine.
- diethylene glycol is used as a low weight diol molecularly, then preferably DPA-DEG is not used as a nonionic chain extender.
- DPA-DEG is used as a nonionic chain extender, then preferably diethylene glycol is not used as the low molecular weight diol.
- the aqueous polyurethane dispersions according to the invention can have a solids content (dry matter) of 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 28 to 50% by weight, and in particular from 39 to 42% by weight.
- Such polyurethane dispersions are for example Polyurethane 34 sold under the commercial references Baycusan® ® C1000, C1001 by the company Bayer Polyurethane 35 and sold under the trade name Baycusan® C1004 ® by Bayer (COVESTRO).
- a preferred aqueous dispersion of polyurethane according to the invention is that marketed under the name Baycusan® ® C1004 by Bayer (COVESTRO), having the INCI name 'Polyurethane-35' or 'Polyurethane-35 and water.
- This dispersion comprises 41% of polyurethane in dry matter and 59% by weight of water.
- the dispersed polyurethane is present in the composition in a dry matter content ranging from 0.2 to 20%, in particular from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight of dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of said composition.
- composition of the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase.
- oil phase is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with one another.
- oil is intended to mean a fatty substance which is insoluble in water and which is liquid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.
- An oily phase according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon-based, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, and mixtures thereof. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.
- volatile oil is understood to mean, according to the invention, an oil of a volatile nature defined by the protocol described below and in the illustrative examples.
- non-volatile oil is meant according to the invention an oil that does not meet the volatility criteria defined above.
- hydrocarbon oil is meant according to the invention an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
- silicon oil is understood to mean, according to the invention, an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
- fluorinated oil is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
- volatile oil By volatile oil according to the invention is meant an oil which has lost more than 20% by weight of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by weight of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by weight of its mass at 30 minutes. 60 minutes, according to the protocol described below.
- the loss in mass during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes and 60 minutes.
- the lost mass is expressed according to the following calculation:
- Oil volatility measurements are expressed in time (in minutes). Those skilled in the art will thus be able to define the oils which are suitable for the invention on the basis of this test for monitoring its loss in mass as a function of time.
- composition of the invention comprises one or more volatile oils, in a total content of at least 10% by weight and ranging in particular from 10 to 40% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight. of said composition.
- volatile phase and in particular of volatile oils, makes it possible to have a light composition, which is easily applied to the skin; the volatile oils participate in the establishment of the film on the skin during application, and when they evaporate, they allow the film to adhere to the skin, with a sensation of bare skin, without any material effect or mask effect on the skin.
- the volatile oils can be chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
- volatile silicone oils mention may in particular be made of linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) whose viscosity ranges from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes and cyclomethicones.
- octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, 3,5, 1, 5-Heptamethyl-3- (trimethylsilyloxy) trisiloxane (otherwise called methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
- volatile hydrocarbon oils include especially linear alkanes C9-C13 branched alkanes This Ci-6, and mixtures thereof.
- the volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from volatile linear alkanes, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
- linear alkanes suitable for the invention mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.
- the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, and their mixtures.
- n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as those sold under the name CETIOL by the company BASF
- n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) such as those sold under the name VEGELIGHT by the company BIOSYNTHIS, as well as their mixtures.
- Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
- a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
- alkanes suitable for the invention mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company COGNIS WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing by at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.
- volatile linear alkane alone or preferably to use a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.
- mixtures suitable for the invention mention may in particular be made of the following mixtures:
- a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention can be used in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (C11 / C13) mixture.
- n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) is used.
- isododecane Mention may in particular be made of isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane. Preferably, isododecane will be used.
- the composition of the invention comprises at least isododecane.
- the volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from the group consisting of isododecane, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 9 to 13 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
- composition of the invention comprises at least one or more volatile linear alkanes.
- the volatile oils will be present in the composition of the invention in a total content ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total volatile oil content also includes volatile oils used as dispersants and included in the other ingredients of the composition, such as the hydrophobic film-forming polymer.
- composition according to the invention can also comprise non-volatile oils, to improve the comfort on application to keratin materials.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon oils mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, C10-C40 synthetic ethers, C10-C40 synthetic esters, C12-C26 fatty alcohols, acids fats higher than C12-C22, and mixtures thereof.
- non-volatile silicone oils mention may in particular be made of phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the total content of non-volatile oils in the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises a non-volatile oil content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, or even less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is devoid of non-volatile oils. volatile.
- the total content of non-volatile oils also includes non-volatile oils used as dispersants and included in the other ingredients of the composition.
- the composition is devoid of non-volatile oils.
- composition of the invention also comprises a hydrophobic film-forming polymer.
- film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support.
- the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer.
- copolymer is understood to mean a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure.
- hydrophobic or liposoluble film-forming polymer means a film-forming polymer dissolved in the oily phase of the composition.
- the hydrophobic film-forming polymer can be of natural or synthetic origin, and is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of:
- phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group preferably comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate,
- - silicone acrylate polymers such as acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as for example KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as for example KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, and in particular acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (as per example FA-4003 DM from Dow Corning ® ), acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymmethacrylate copolymers in isododecane (such
- polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane (such as for example Silform ® Flexible Resin from Momentive),
- alkyl group comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (such as for example TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu),
- VP vinylpyrrolidone
- alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as copolymers of VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene,
- polystyrene resins hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,
- alkylcelluloses and preferably alkylcelluloses carrying an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,
- the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a silicone film-forming polymer chosen from the group consisting of:
- - phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group preferably comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, - silicone acrylate polymers such as acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as for example KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as for example KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy, and in particular the acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy in dime
- alkyl group comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (such as for example TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu), and mixtures thereof.
- the liposoluble film-forming polymer b) is chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicates, silicone acrylate polymers and mixtures thereof.
- the composition of the invention comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate.
- the hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 12% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the percentage of hydrophobic film-forming polymer is expressed in% by weight of dry extract (dry matter or active matter, a.i.) relative to the total weight of the composition.
- fillers should be understood to mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying effect.
- the fillers can be mineral or organic in any shape: platelet, spherical or oblong.
- the fillers according to the invention are fillers having a capacity to absorb and / or adsorb an oil or a liquid fatty substance.
- the absorbent fillers according to the invention can be characterized by their absorption of oil, otherwise called oil uptake, expressed in milliliter of oil per gram of filler (ml / g).
- This oil uptake corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed and / or adsorbed by the load and can be characterized by measuring the oil uptake according to standard methods. Mention may in particular be made of the method for determining powder oil uptake described in standard NF T 30-022, and corresponding to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the load, expressed in volume of oil adsorbed on mass of the load.
- the artificial sebum (25% of Jojoba oil, 15% of squalane and 60% of miglyol 829 (CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE) is poured into 1g of powder (load to be tested); with the spatula, the powder is gently pressed while lightly crushing the powder, the objective being to obtain a mastic paste which does not crumble and peels off easily; the result is noted in ml of artificial sebum for 1g of powder. It is necessary to convert into ml / 100g by multiplying the value read by 100; the measurement is to be carried out twice on each sample, if the difference between these 2 measurements is greater than 0.05ml, a third is carried out measured.
- the fillers also have a low capacity to absorb and / or adsorb water.
- the same method is used for the water intake, replacing the artificial sebum with demineralized water.
- the filler does not absorb water at all, it is hydrophobic.
- the filler does not absorb sebum at all, it is lipophobic (vis-à-vis this artificial sebum).
- fillers having an oil uptake capacity of at least 30ml / 100g are used.
- fillers having an oil uptake capacity of between 55ml_ / 100g and 250ml_ / 100g are used.
- fillers are used having an oil uptake capacity of between 30ml_ / 100g and 250ml_ / 100g, in particular between 55ml_ / 100g and 250mL / 100g.
- the fillers also have a water uptake capacity of less than 300ml_ / 100g, in particular between 0ml_ / 100g and 250ml_ / 100g, in particular of 0ml_ / 100g and 170ml_ / 100g.
- these charges may be used in particular, furthermore having a water intake capacity of less than 300m L / 100g: a charge having an oil intake capacity of between 55ml_ / 100g and 100ml_ / 100g and zero water intake , such as the filler marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL MB; a load having an oil uptake capacity of between 120mL / 100g and 145mL / 100g and a water uptake of between 120mL / 100g and 150mL / 100g such as the load marketed under the name AMILON.
- the filler (s) according to the invention are chosen in particular from: polyamide powders (eg nylon) - powders of acrylic polymers, in particular of polymethyl methacrylate
- silicone resin silicone resin powders (INCI name polymethylsilsesquioxane) silicone resin / Ti02 powders, polyurethane and silica powders, calcium carbonate, clays and their mixtures.
- the fillers according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of polyamide powders (eg nylon), powders of acrylic polymers, in particular of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), nitride powders boron, silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, silica powders, cellulose powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, silicone resin powders, starch powders and mixtures thereof, preferably silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, and a mixture thereof.
- polyamide powders eg nylon
- PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
- the total content of absorbent fillers according to the invention will range in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 8% and preferably from 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
- composition of the invention further comprises at least one pigment.
- pigments means white or colored particles, inorganic or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on inorganic and / or organic materials).
- the pigment (s) are chosen in particular from inorganic and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on inorganic and / or organic materials), nacres or nacreous pigments, and mixtures thereof.
- organic pigments mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue chromium oxide hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.
- organic pigments mention may be made, for example, of D & C red pigments No. 19; D & C red n ° 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D & C Yellow # 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D & C red n ° 13; D&C Red No.
- the pigments are surface treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oily phase.
- the hydrophobic treatment agent is chosen in particular from the group consisting of silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, synthetic polar waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
- the pigment (s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition for making up the skin in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, of preferably INCI name 'Polyurethane-35' or 'Polyurethane-35 and water', in a content ranging from 0.2 to 20%, in particular from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, preferably again from 1 to 7% by weight of dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of said composition, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, preferably chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicates, silicone acrylate polymers and mixtures thereof, in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, more preferably 5 to 12% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition, c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably in a content of at least 10%
- composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and / or of the neck, and is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.
- W / O water-in-oil
- the composition is, for example, in the form of a fluid for the face, of a foundation, of a foundation, of a “finisher”.
- a makeup composition for the face in particular a foundation.
- the composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as UV filters, antioxidants, surfactants, gelling agents, preservatives, film-forming polymers, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as for example emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lightening agents, and mixtures thereof.
- the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or of the neck, comprising the application to said keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition such as as defined above in the invention.
- the method is intended to impart improved hold of the makeup over time, in particular under extreme conditions, in particular when the composition of the invention is applied to skin prone to oily and / or subjected to hot atmospheric conditions. and / or wet, and / or sweating conditions associated with intensive physical exercise (eg: playing a sport).
- the invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the% are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the inventors have worked to optimize the hold properties, in particular hold of dullness, of a foundation emulsion as described below, for better resistance to extreme conditions (eg: heat / humidity or practice of sport).
- the loss in mass during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes and 60 minutes.
- the lost mass is expressed according to the following calculation: [Math.2]
- CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 70%) / CYCLOHEXASILOXANE (30%) (reference oil 1) is less volatile than oils 2, 3 and 4. Even after 60 minutes, there is still some oil on the PMMA plate. ISOHEXADECANE is less volatile than all of the other oils and is considered according to the invention as a low limit of volatility.
- volatile oil As volatile oil according to the invention is meant an oil having lost more than 20% by weight of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by weight of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by weight of its mass at 30 minutes. 60 minutes, according to the protocol described above.
- compositions of the invention comprise volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from volatile linear C9-C15 alkanes, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
- undecane / tridecane is particularly advantageous in a composition of the invention as described in Table 2. Compared to similar compositions comprising volatile silicone oils, it allows an improvement in the adhesion and the mattness of the material. foundation film applied to the skin.
- Test protocol pour the artificial sebum (25% Jojoba oil, 15% squalane and 60% miglyol 829 (CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE) on 1g of powder (load to be tested); with the spatula, we paste gently, lightly crushing the powder, the objective being to obtain a mastic paste which does not crumble and peels off easily; the result is recorded in ml of artificial sebum per 1g of powder. It is necessary to convert into ml / 100g by multiplying the value read by 100; the measurement is to be carried out twice on each sample, if the difference between these 2 measurements is greater than 0.05ml, a 3rd measurement is carried out. The same method is used for water intake, replacing the artificial sebum with demineralized water.
- the filler does not absorb water at all, it is hydrophobic.
- the absorbent fillers according to the invention should therefore have an oil uptake of at least 30mL / 100g.
- fillers having an oil uptake capacity of at least 30ml / 100g are used.
- the charges may also have a water intake capacity of less than 300m L / 100g.
- compositions illustrated below are prepared according to conventional methods of formulations in the cosmetics field.
- The% are expressed as% by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated.
- Composition 2-2 of the invention was evaluated according to various criteria: presence of the foundation film (Visia photo under UV light and calculation of the L * parameter thanks to image analysis), homogeneity of the foundation film. foundation (Visia photo under crossed polarized light and calculation of the s76 parameter thanks to image analysis), mattness of the foundation film (measurement of gloss at 60 ° with the Brillancemeter), transfer properties of the foundation (Texturometer and image analysis of the colorimetric deviation from the white reference (white cotton), coverage of the foundation (Color measurement using a spectrocolorimeter).
- the amount of foundation applied is calibrated.
- the foundation according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good hold properties, in particular resistance to dullness, comfort after application and non-transfer.
- the first test consisted of subjecting the foundation to several 10-minute heat and humidity cycles using a halogen lamp and monitoring the hold over an 8-hour day.
- the face of the bare skin panelist is assessed in several ways: by clinical assessment by a dermatologist, by taking a photo and by self-assessment by the panelist.
- the foundation is applied to the entire face of the panelist.
- the panelist’s face is assessed (at immediate t) using a photo, the dermatologist and the self-assessment.
- the panelist is subjected to 4 cycles of heat and humidity occurring at different times: 1 hour, 3 hours, 5 hours and 7 hours after applying the foundation.
- the development of the foundation is followed at time t4h, t6h and t8h.
- the instrumental measurements show very good resistance of the product surface and the intensity of the color up to 8 hours.
- the dermatologist's clinical evaluation shows an improvement in the even tone of the complexion and the texture of the skin, as well as an increase in the radiance of the skin and the luminosity of the complexion for up to 8 hours. Finally, the skin is more matte up to 8 hours.
- the panelists agree with the dermatologist that the uniformity and luminosity of the complexion are improved up to 8 hours, and the perception of duller skin up to 8 hours.
- compositions according to the invention in the form of a lipophilic film-forming polymer, an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, as well as absorbent fillers exhibiting an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 30 ml / 100 g, in particular. greater than or equal to 55mL / 100g, provide good resistance over time, including in extreme conditions (hot and / or humid atmospheric conditions or intensive practice of sport).
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PCT/FR2020/052539 WO2021123670A1 (fr) | 2019-12-19 | 2020-12-18 | Fond de teint ultra-haute tenue |
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WO2024081035A1 (en) * | 2022-10-12 | 2024-04-18 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic composition comprising silica and lauroyl lysine |
CN115624496B (zh) * | 2022-10-12 | 2024-03-08 | 上海联锴新材料有限公司 | 一种化妆品组合物及其制备方法 |
WO2024119299A1 (en) * | 2022-12-05 | 2024-06-13 | Momentive Performance Materials Inc. | Personal care composition comprising a volatile alkane mixture and crosslinked elastomers |
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US3412054A (en) | 1966-10-31 | 1968-11-19 | Union Carbide Corp | Water-dilutable polyurethanes |
FR2783415B1 (fr) * | 1998-09-18 | 2000-11-03 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique sous forme d'emulsion comprenant une dispersion de particules de polymere stabilisees en surface dans une phase grasse liquide |
FR2879442B1 (fr) * | 2004-12-21 | 2007-07-20 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique pour le maquillage resistante a l'eau et facilement demaquillable |
EP1798213A1 (de) | 2005-12-14 | 2007-06-20 | Cognis IP Management GmbH | Verfahren zur Herstellung von Kohlenwasserstoffen |
US7445770B2 (en) | 2007-03-14 | 2008-11-04 | Bayer Materialscience Llc | Polyurethane dispersions for use in personal care products |
WO2008155059A2 (de) | 2007-06-19 | 2008-12-24 | Cognis Ip Management Gmbh | Kohlenwasserstoff gemische und ihre verwendung |
EP2229143A2 (fr) * | 2007-12-05 | 2010-09-22 | L'Oréal | Procédé cosmétique de maquillage et/ou de soin utilisant une résine de siloxane et une huile non volatile |
EP2105126A1 (de) * | 2008-03-26 | 2009-09-30 | Bayer MaterialScience AG | Dekorative kosmetische Zusammensetzungen |
EP2353582A1 (fr) * | 2009-12-18 | 2011-08-10 | L'Oréal | Composition de maquillage des cils et des sourcils |
EP3368003A4 (en) * | 2015-10-30 | 2019-07-03 | Covestro Deutschland AG | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYURETHANE |
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WO2021123670A1 (fr) | 2021-06-24 |
JP2023506988A (ja) | 2023-02-20 |
FR3104958A1 (fr) | 2021-06-25 |
CN115052664A (zh) | 2022-09-13 |
US20230058262A1 (en) | 2023-02-23 |
KR20220119070A (ko) | 2022-08-26 |
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