EP3946244A1

EP3946244A1 - Cosmetic use of amylose-rich starch as film-forming agent with barrier and fixative effects

Info

Publication number: EP3946244A1
Application number: EP20713308.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Léon Mentink; Daniel Wils; Géraldine LOUVET-POMMIER; Camille LACORE
Original assignee: Roquette Freres SA
Current assignee: Roquette Freres SA
Priority date: 2019-03-29
Filing date: 2020-03-27
Publication date: 2022-02-09
Also published as: KR20210146327A; WO2020201071A1; JP2022526791A; CN113645949A; FR3094223B1; US20220160612A1; FR3094223A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of film-forming agents for cosmetic or dermatological use, that are capable of conferring a barrier effect or a fixative effect on a cosmetic preparation. The barrier effect makes it possible to protect the skin from environmental pollution, for example microparticles and volatile organic compounds, and more particularly from urban atmospheric pollution. The fixative effect makes it possible to reduce or eliminate the transfer of pigments and/or dyes, and to increase the hold of the hairstyle or the shaping of head hair, body hair or eyelashes.

Description

Title: Cosmetic use of starch rich in amylose as a film-forming agent with barrier and fixing effects

Technical area

The invention relates to the field of film-forming agents for cosmetic or dermatological use, used to give a preparation for topical use barrier properties against environmental pollution, for example micro particles and volatile organic compounds, and more particularly to the urban air pollution, and / or the binding properties of said preparation for topical use.

The present application provides a solution to three current cosmetic needs: to provide a product that is as natural as possible; protect the skin from environmental aggressions through an easy and pleasant daily cosmetic product; to fix cosmetic products on the skin or integuments.

[0003] Environmental pollution, and more particularly atmospheric pollution known under the English name of "smog" or "urban dust", is composed of particles and inorganic fibers which may include heavy metals, and toxic or carcinogenic organic compounds such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon compounds, furans, aldehydes, which can even also be associated with pathogenic microorganisms. Such particles have sizes ranging from less than 1 µm up to 500 µm. The smaller these particles, the more their toxicity is increased. According to a study by L’Oréal, particles ranging in size from 2.5 µm to 10 µm are the most harmful: they penetrate deep into the epidermis where they cause severe chemical degradation.

[0004] Air pollution causes premature aging of the skin. It has been shown that the aging process is induced by biological dysfunctions such as those caused by this pollution, such as peroxidation of epidermal lipids, deterioration of proteins, abnormal water loss, and also caused by oxidative stress, apoptosis and cellular damage generated by UVB rays. These dysfunctions cause the appearance of blackheads, a decrease in the radiance of the skin, and an increase in the sensitivity of the skin.

[0005] Protecting the skin against environmental pollution is thus a new cosmetic target for protecting the appearance and health of the skin, while maintaining a pleasant texture from a sensory point of view on the skin. skin, nails or hair.

[0006] Another consumer demand is that cosmetic products, in particular those for daily use such as make-up products such as foundations, lipsticks, mascaras, or such as hair coloring products, remain in place when applied. This means that the cosmetic product must remain, at least partially, or better still completely, on the covered area as long as possible, ideally at least one day, even when the covered area is subjected to friction with textiles, such as clothing, or even with the skin. This non-transfer result is possible by the presence of a fixing agent in the cosmetic product.

Prior art

[0007] Initially, the industry used polymers of natural origin for the film-forming function with an anti-pollution barrier effect. However, the latter had a number of drawbacks, particularly in terms of color, smell, purity, consistency of effectiveness and viscosity stability. These reasons have led to their substitution by synthetic or semi-synthetic polymers. In this regard, polymers or copolymers of N-vinylimidazole, silicone compounds or silicone gums, and finally the carbomers, widely used in cosmetics, are known. The Carbopol® range developed by the Lubrizol company is an example. Mention may in particular be made of the product Carbopol® Ultrez 10NF which is a copolymer of polyethylene glycol and a long-chain alkyl acid ester, created to provide film-forming properties to a wide variety of cosmetic formulas.

[0008] For their film-forming function with a fixing effect, the industry currently uses synthetic polymers such as polymers of acrylates or copolymers of acrylates and of allyl-methacrylate (such as Fixate ™ G-100 from Lubrizol), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, crosslinked methyl methacrylate polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidones, silicones, hydrogenated castor oils PEG-40 or PEG-60.

According to patent EP1684731, it is known to use the pregelatinized and fluidized hydroxypropylated pea starch as a film-forming agent for coating or film-coating solid pharmaceutical forms such as tablets. This document does not disclose the use of starch rich in amylose, and a fortiori of hydroxypropylated pea starch, as a film-forming agent in a cosmetic preparation. Technical problem

[0010] The cosmetics industry must now face new challenges in terms of safeguarding the environment, preserving our fossil resources, carbon footprint and consumer safety and protection. From this point of view, it reconsiders its formulations and returns as much as possible to the use of solutions of natural origin for the formulation of its products. Science and technology are progressing in this field with the aim of offering technical, reliable, efficient solutions, allowing the formulator to achieve effective film-forming functions in the products he produces, with natural ingredients, highly respectful of the environment and consumer.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant has found that it is possible, for cosmetic needs, to have a starch that is easy to use, in particular directly dispersible and soluble in cold water, while being stable in the cosmetic preparation. It was also able to observe that such a starch allows, after application of a cosmetic preparation comprising it, the creation of a film with a particularly effective barrier and / or fixing effect.

Object of the invention

[0012] A use of at least one starch is proposed, in a preparation for topical use, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, as a film-forming agent with a barrier effect against environmental pollution, and / or with a fixing effect, in which said starch present :

- an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, preferably between 30% and 75%,

- And a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25 ° C at 20% by weight of dry matter of between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa.s, more preferably between 50 and 1000 mPa.s, any preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.s, and even more preferably around 150 mPa.s.

According to another aspect of the invention, the starch useful for use makes it possible to form on the epidermis or integuments a film which protects against environmental pollution due to microparticles suspended in the air and / or allergenic volatile organic compounds, such as perfumes, or harmful or toxic to the skin, and preferably that due to atmospheric microparticles, such as urban dust known by its English name “urban dust”.

[0014] According to another aspect of the invention, the starch useful for use makes it possible to create a barrier to allergenic products of external origin in liquid or volatile form, such as perfumes, essential oils, organic solvents. , or in the form of solid particles such as pollen for example.

[0015] According to another aspect of the invention, the starch useful for use makes it possible to form a film with a fixing effect, which makes it possible to increase the durability of the preparation for topical use, in particular pigments, dyes, hair coloring products, or which makes it possible to increase the hold of the hairstyle or the shaping of the hair, bristles or eyelashes, or which makes it possible to give a non-transfer property to the preparation for topical use, for example no transfer of makeup products.

[0016] According to another aspect of the invention, the starch useful for use according to the invention is a legume starch, native and / or thermally modified and / or chemically modified.

[0017] According to another aspect of the invention, at least one legume starch is the only starch film-forming agent or of starch origin.

[0018] According to another aspect, there is provided a preparation for topical use, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, comprising at least one such starch, preferably a legume starch. Brief description of the drawings

Fig. 1

[0019] [Fig. 1] shows the photographs of the untreated area of skin, noted as a control, and the area of skin covered with a film formed by the reference emulsion A; before application of emulsions (T0), after application of emulsions and charcoal powder (T2), and after rinsing with water (T3).

Fig. 2

[0020] [Fig. 2] shows the photographs of the area of skin covered with a film formed by the reference emulsion B, and the area of skin covered by the emulsion according to the invention INV1, before application of the emulsions (T0), after application emulsions and charcoal powder (T2), and after rinsing with water (T3).

Fig. 3

[0021] [Fig. 3] shows the photograph of the tissue papers during the non-transfer test of the foundation according to the invention. Description of embodiments

It is proposed to use at least one starch, in a preparation for topical use, as a film-forming agent with a barrier effect against environmental pollution, and / or with a fixing effect, in which said starch has:

- And a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 20% by weight of dry matter and at 25 ° C of between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa.s, more preferably between 50 and 1000 mPa.s, most preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.s, and even more preferably around 150 mPa.s.

[0023] Starch useful for the invention

The two essential characteristics of the starch useful in the invention are that it has an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, and a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25 ° C at 20% by weight of material dry between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s. The viscosity within the meaning of the present invention is a Brookfield viscosity determined by means, for example, of a Brookfield RDVD-I + viscometer (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, INC. Middleboro, MA, USA) using one of the pins referenced RV1, RV2. , RV3, RV4, RV5, RV6 or RV7 and without using the equipment called "Helipath Stand". The rotation of the spindle is fixed at 20 revolutions per minute. The spindle, from RV1 to RV7, is chosen so that the displayed viscosity value is between 10% and 100% of the total viscosity scale possible with said spindle, as indicated by the manufacturer. To perform this viscosity measurement, 300 ml of an aqueous suspension or aqueous solution at 20% by weight of dry starch material prepared at 25 ° C with mechanical stirring, for example with a deflocculated paddle at 250 rpm for 15 minutes, are placed in a low-shaped 400 ml beaker (diameter approximately 7.5 cm). The viscosity value is taken at the end of the 3rd rotation. The measurement is carried out following all the recommendations given by the manufacturer to obtain a reliable viscosity measurement, for example in the manual "Operating Instructions, Manual N ° M / 92-021 -M0101, Brookfield Digital Viscometer, Model DV-I +) .

In particular, the amylose content is in a range from 30% to 75%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and more preferably from 35% to 42%. The percentages of amylose are expressed by dry weight relative to the dry weight of starch, and determined before any subsequent treatment such as hydrolysis and / or alkylation of said starch.

The Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25 ° C at 20% by weight of dry matter is between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa.s, more preferably between 50 and 1000 mPa.s , most preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.s, and even more preferably around 150 mPa.s. These Brookfield viscosity ranges can be combined with the amylose content ranges.

[0028] According to a first embodiment of the use according to the invention, it is proposed to use a legume starch, native or chemically modified.

[0029] Native or chemically modified legume starch By "legume" within the meaning of the present invention is meant any plant belonging to the Caesalpiniaceae, Mimosaceae or Papilionaceae families and in particular any plant belonging to the Papilionaceae family such as, for example, peas, beans, broad bean, faba bean, lentil, or lupine.

[0031] Thus the legume starch useful for use according to the invention can be chosen from starches of peas, chickpeas, broad beans, field beans, beans, lupines, lentils, or lupine. Preferably, the legume starch is chosen from pea starches, most preferably is a starch from Pisum sativum.

[0032] The legume starch can be chosen from those which are native, or those which are chemically modified. Chemically modified legume starch is a legume starch that has undergone at least one of the following chemical changes: hydroxyalkylation, carboxyalkylation, succinylation, alkylation, acetylation, cationization, anionization. These chemical modifications are modifications of stabilization of the starch of legumes, in other words of stabilization of the viscosity in aqueous solution, in that they make it possible to reduce or eliminate the retrogradation of a gel or of an aqueous solution of said starch. . Thus, the chemically modified legume starch can be chosen from hydroxyalkylated legume starches, carboxyalkyls, octenylsucciniles, succiniles, acetyls. Such starches are generally called "stabilized starches" because they have a tendency to reduced retrogradation. , null or controlled.

The hydroxyalkylated legume starch useful in the invention may be a hydroxyalkylated legume starch having a content of hydroxyalkyl groups ranging from 0.1 to 20% by dry weight relative to the dry weight of hydroxyalkylated starch, preferably of 1 to 10%.

Preferably, the legume starch is chosen from hydroxypropylated legume starches, hydroxyethyls or carboxymethyls, and most preferably is a hydroxypropylated legume starch.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydroxypropylated legume starch” is understood to mean a legume starch substituted by groups hydroxypropyl by any technique known to those skilled in the art, for example by etherification reaction with propylene oxide. In the context of the invention, a hydroxypropylated legume starch preferably has a hydroxypropyl group content of between 0.1 and 20% by dry weight relative to the dry weight of hydroxypropylated starch, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight, more preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, even more preferably between 5 and 9% by weight, and most preferably close to 7% by weight. This content is in particular determined by proton Nuclear Magnetic Resonance spectrometry, in particular according to standard EN ISO 11543: 2002 F.

[0036] According to a second embodiment, it is proposed to use a thinned, dextrinified or hydrolyzed legume starch. According to a third embodiment, the legume starch is chosen from acetylated starches.

[0037] Thinned legume starch

The term “fluidized legume starch” is understood to mean a granular starch which has undergone a light acid treatment in a dry or anhydrous medium, at low temperature, generally less than 100 ° C, preferably less than 80 ° C. The thinning does not cause a change in the molecular weight of the starch, but a destructuring of the intermolecular bonds between the macromolecules of amylose and amylopectin, so that the viscosity of a solution of such starch is found. reduce compared to un-fluidized starch.

[0039] Hydrolyzed legume starch

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrolyzed legume starch” means a legume starch which has undergone a hydrolysis operation, that is to say an operation aimed at reducing its average molecular weight. Those skilled in the art know how to obtain such starches, for example by chemical treatments such as oxidation and acid treatments, or else by enzymatic treatments. Hydrolysis is generally carried out on gelatinized or liquefied starch. Those skilled in the art will naturally adjust the level of hydrolysis, depending on the viscosity desired for the starch.

[0041] Dextrinified legume starch The term "dextrinified legume starch" means a legume starch which has undergone a dextrinification operation. Dextrinification is hydrolysis of a starch powder carried out in a dry or anhydrous medium. Dextrinification is a process of modifying starch in the powder state which uses the combined action of heat, and generally, of a chemical agent capable of hydrolyzing the glucosidic bonds. Whether they are batch or continuous, these processes use processing temperatures above 100 ° C and the optional presence of an acid, an alkaline agent and / or an oxidizing agent, in a dry environment. or low humidity, generally less than or equal to 25% m, or even 15% m. Like hydrolysis, dextrinification helps reduce molecular weight

In the context of the invention, the hydrolyzed or dextrinified legume starch preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1 to 2000 kDa, preferably from 10 to 1000 kDa, most preferably from 20 to 1000 kDa, and even more preferably from 100 to 1000 kDa. For example, the molecular weight can range from 200 to 800 kDa, from 200 to 500 kDa, from 200 to 400 kDa or even from 200 to 300 kDa. The weight average molecular weight is determined by HPSEC-MALLS (High Performance Inline Coupled Size Exclusion Chromatography with Multiple Angle Laser Light Scattering Detection).

[0044] According to a preferred variant of this embodiment of the use according to the invention, the modified legume starch is a hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated legume starch. A very preferred variant is a hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated legume starch.

[0045] According to a third embodiment, it is proposed to use a thermally modified legume starch.

Thermally modified legume starch

The legume starch useful in the invention may be a thermally modified legume starch. These thermal modifications are physical modifications, and are those chosen from gelatinization, pregelatinization, extrusion, atomization or drying operations. The thermal modifications stated above make it possible to increase the aqueous solubility of the legume starch, or even to make it completely soluble in water. In particular, the starch according to the invention can preferably be made soluble. It can be made soluble by any technique known to those skilled in the art, in particular by heat and / or mechanical treatment, for example by a cooking operation in an aqueous medium, which can range from pre-gelatinization to gelatinization or complete solubilization, optionally followed by a drying step when obtaining a pulverulent product is desired.

The operation aiming to make the starch soluble can completely intervene indifferently before or after the chemical modification and / or the hydrolysis of the starch, or even after its introduction into the preparation for topical use, for example by cooking the preparation for topical use at the time of its production.

[0050] Combinations of embodiments

The starch useful in the invention can be a starch having at least two characteristics chosen from: being a legume starch, being a hydrolyzed starch, being a dextrinified starch, being a fluidized starch, being a thermally modified starch, be a chemically modified starch.

The starch can thus be a hydroxyalkylated, and fluidized or hydrolyzed, and pregelatinized, leguminous starch. Preferably, such a legume starch will be a hydroxypropylated, hydrolyzed and pregelatinized pea starch.

When the legume starch is alkylated or hydroxyalkylated, and hydrolyzed, it will preferably be non-granular. It will advantageously be made soluble in water by any known technique so that the film-forming composition has very good film-forming properties.

[0054] Pregelatinized, hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated pea starches suitable for use according to the invention are commercially available and are offered by the Applicant under the trademark Lycoat®, for example Lycoat® RS720 or Lycoat® RS780.

[0055] According to another embodiment of the use according to the invention, it is proposed to use a cereal or tuber starch, rich in amylose. Cereal or tuber starches rich in amylose

Cereal or tuber starches useful in the invention can be chosen from cereal or tuber starches rich in amylose, that is to say having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, preferably between 30% and 75%.

Cereals or tubers rich in amylose are cereals or tubers which have been selected by crossing or hybridization, or which have been genetically modified, to increase the amylose content in their starch.

[0059] A known example of corn rich in amylose is amylomais.

As for the legume starches described above, the amylose-rich cereal or tuber starches useful in the invention can be native or modified. The modifications may be similar to those described for the legume starches above, namely thermal modifications such as pregelatinization, atomization, and / or chemical modifications such as hydroxyalkylations, acetylations, cationizations, anionizations, carboxyalkylations. All the embodiments mentioned for a legume starch can be applied to cereal or tuber starches rich in amylose.

[0061] Additional optional modifications

In addition to the thermal and chemical modifications described above, the starch according to the invention may also have undergone one or more other physical and / or chemical modifications, as long as said modifications do not interfere with the desired properties of the starch for use according to the invention. An example of chemical modification is in particular crosslinking.

[0063] Other additional modifications which can be applied to starch are the operations of microwave or ultrasonic treatment, plasticization or granulation.

[0064] Preparation for topical use

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “preparation for topical use” means any composition intended to be brought into contact with the skin, human or animal, preferably human. It may thus be a cosmetic composition, a dermatological composition, a pharmaceutical composition or a veterinary composition.

The preparation for topical use may comprise mass contents of film-forming starch according to the invention ranging from 0.6% to 50% by weight relative to the whole of the preparation for topical use, preferably from 2% to 30 % by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15%, and most preferably around 10%.

The mass starch content according to the invention can advantageously be high, without appreciable adverse effect on the texture of the preparation for topical use, in particular by the use of a starch according to the invention having a low viscosity, in particular a Brookfield viscosity ranging from 50 mPa.s to 1000 mPa.s in aqueous solution at 20% by weight of dry matter at 25 ° C.

These preparations for topical use may comprise, in addition to the starch described above, other ingredients usually used in preparations for topical use, such as, for example, water, humectants, emulsifiers, surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, lubricating agents, emollients, fats, and in particular also cosmetic or dermatological active agents, and adjuvants such as preservatives, solubilizers or perfumes. Among the cosmetic active agents, it can comprise moisturizing agents such as isosorbide, betaine, glycerin or acetamidoethoxyethanol or other active products or products with sensory effects vis-à-vis the skin, such as for example starch other than the specific starch described in the present application.

[0069] Non-limiting examples of preparations for topical use include lotions, creams, serums, gels, ointments, balms, liquid soaps or shower gels, shampoos, foams, foundations, antiperspirants and deodorants.

The preparation for topical use, preferably cosmetic, is chosen from skin care products, preferably chosen from day creams, sunscreens, after-sun creams, self-tanners, masks; hair care products, preferably chosen from shampoos, conditioners in the form of creams or masks or lotions, styling products in the form of spray or gels or waxes, hair care products coloring; make-up products, preferably chosen from foundations, eye shadow, mascaras, nail varnishes, lipsticks, lip colors, lip syrups, eyeliners; hygiene products, preferably chosen from washing gels, cleansing or make-up removing wipes, or hydroalcoholic solutions or gels.

[0071] According to one embodiment, the starch useful for the invention is the only starchy film-forming agent in the preparation for topical use.

A film with a barrier effect against environmental pollution

The use of a starch, preferably a legume, according to the invention allows the preparation for topical use, to form a film on the surface of the skin or of the hair or hairs, which forms a barrier to pollution environmental, harmful or toxic to the skin. This film protects the skin, hair or body hair, from environmental pollution due to microparticles and allergenic volatile organic compounds suspended in the air, in particular that of atmospheric microparticles, for example the dust known as "urban dust ”, or plant pollens. This film also protects against pollutants or allergenic substances deliberately applied to the skin, such as perfumes. It reduces or prevents atmospheric microparticles suspended in the air, and / or organic compounds, volatile or bound to the microparticles, from coming into contact with the skin.

[0074] With regard to environmental pollution due to microparticles, the barrier film obtained according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the adhesion of said microparticles to the skin. As a result, the skin is not in contact with these microparticles, and therefore they cannot harm the health of the skin. The skin is therefore protected from the metabolic degradations usually generated by the microparticles.

[0075] Regarding environmental pollution due to volatile organic substances or adhered to microparticles, the barrier film according to the invention makes it possible to prevent the diffusion of said organic substances to the skin or to the hair or to the body hair.

The Applicant has in fact been able to observe that a preparation for topical use comprising a starch according to the invention allows cell protection. partial epidermal cells and keratinocytes. By "cell protection" is meant that the use makes it possible to protect the cells of the epidermis, that is to say to reduce their mortality, when they are exposed to micropollutants such as urban dust and metals. heavy, such as arsenic, cadmium, cobalt, chromium, nickel, lead, strontium, and antimony. In other words, the use according to the invention makes it possible to keep a part, or even a large quantity, preferably at least 50%, of the cells of the epidermis alive when they are subjected to pollution stresses.

[0077] In the absence of cellular protection according to the invention, the cells of the epidermis and the keratinocytes are almost all killed by exposure to urban dust and to heavy metals. In the presence of a barrier film formed according to the invention, the cells of the epidermis and the keratinocytes are less affected by these pollutants, and thus show a reduced cell mortality of at least 60% compared to an exposure in absence of such a barrier film.

[0078] Film with fixing effect

By "film with a fixing effect", the applicant means that the film formed by the preparation for topical use on a part of the skin or integuments of an individual, has an adhesion to said part, and / or a cohesion intrinsic mechanical, sufficient to resist mechanical friction of an external part on the part covered with the film with fixing effect. As an example of an outer part, there will be mentioned a part of the skin of the individual other than the covered part, the skin of another individual, the clothing of the wearer or another, wipes. Examples of mechanical friction are, for example, friction between two cheeks, between a cheek and a hand, or between a cheek and the lips, or between two pairs of lips. When the film with a fixing effect is thus rubbed, it remains in place on the skin, retaining its physical integrity, and transferring little or no material to the exterior part. Following rubbing, the outer part contains little or no trace of preparation for topical use.

The film with a fixing effect prevents the transfer of material from the preparation for topical use, for example of a preparation for colored topical use, from a part of the body to an external part such as a garment. It also includes the reduction a flow of heat or humidity, and therefore good resistance of the preparation for topical use after application.

[0081] The use of a starch, preferably a legume, according to the invention as a barrier film-forming agent allows the formation of a film with a fixing effect. This film with a fixing effect makes it possible to reduce or eliminate the transfer of preparations for topical use. In particular, it makes it possible to reduce or eliminate the transfer of pigments and / or dyes from preparations for topical use, such as make-up products. This film with a fixing effect thus makes it possible to increase the hold of the pigments and / or dyes in hair coloring products. This film with a fixing effect also makes it possible to increase the hold of the hairstyle or the shaping of the hair, body hair or eyelashes.

Examples

Example 1: preparation of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions

This example illustrates the preparation of four oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions according to the compositions of Table 1:

- Control emulsion: emulsion containing only water, oil, the emulsifier "Montanov L" from Seppic, and a preservative "Sepicide HB" from Seppic,

- Emulsion A: according to the state of the art, emulsion containing as film-forming agent xanthan gum "Keltrol" from CP Kelco,

- Emulsion B: according to the state of the art, emulsion containing a film-forming mixture Beauté by Roquette® DS112, consisting of xanthan gum “Keltrol” from CP Kelco, hydroxyethylcellulose “Natrosol 250 HHR” from Hercules, and starch “Pregeflo CH40 By Roquette.

- INV1 emulsion: emulsion with a "Lycoat® RS720" pea starch from Roquette Frères used according to the invention.

The procedure for preparing an emulsion is as follows: an aqueous phase is prepared by dispersing the film-forming agent in water at 35-40 ° C with stirring with a deflocculating paddle at 1000 revolutions per minute for at least less 10 minutes. The emulsifier is then added with stirring at 35-40 ° C. Separately, the oil is heated to 35-40 ° C. The oil is then emulsified in the aqueous phase at 35-40 ° C with stirring with a deflocculating paddle at 1500 revolutions by minute for 15 minutes. Finally, we add the preservative. The emulsion is kept under stirring until it is at room temperature.

[0085] [Table 1]

[0086] Example 2: in-vivo measurement of the reduction in the adhesion of microparticles

This example compares the performance of the anti-pollution barrier effects by microparticles for the four emulsions prepared in Example 1.

To do this, tests were carried out on human epidermis of 10 volunteers aged 18 to 65 years, using as an experimental model charcoal particles of sizes between 1 μm and 5 μm, referred to as microparticles. These carbon microparticles conveniently model actual polluting microparticles, such as particulate matter from combustion engine exhaust.

Preparation of the charcoal microparticles:

Prior to the tests, a sufficient quantity of charcoal microparticles was prepared by subjecting the charcoal to the action of a household grinder for 10 minutes. This grinding provides particles of micrometric size having a size distribution distributed mainly between 1 μm and 5 μm. [0104] Procedure for the test on the epidermis of the volunteers:

On the forearm of each volunteer, four areas of 1 cm by 1 cm were defined. For each zone thus delimited, the following two measurements are carried out: a count measurement of the number of black microparticles using a photograph taken with a Dino-Lite digital microscope then processed by image analysis, as well as a measurement of the colorimetry with a Minolta © CR-200 chromameter.

Counting of the microparticles:

[0094] The high-resolution photographs taken with the Dino Lite digital microscope are processed with the image processing software GIMP (GNU Image Manipulation Software). We first proceeded to a projection along an axis (black and white) to bring out the black microparticles, and to standardize the images. The number of black pixels was then counted with the GIMP software.

Colorimetry measurement:

The Minolta CR-200 chromameter is an objective tool for measuring the color of surfaces. It provides a result composed of three coordinates L *, a * and b * in the CIE 1976 color space (also called the CIELAB color space). Only the parameter L *, which characterizes the lightness of the color, was used: L * = 0 corresponds to the color black, L * = 100 indicates a white color.

Conduct of the test on volunteers:

Microparticle count and colorimetry measurements are carried out before the application of the emulsions, that is to say on virgin skin (T0 measurements).

Three areas were covered with the emulsions to be tested, one with emulsion A, one with emulsion B, and one with emulsion INV1. For this, approximately 2 mg of emulsion was applied per cm 2 of skin, depositing the required amount with a pipette, then spreading with a spatula. The volunteers then waited 20 minutes to allow the emulsion to dry. The fourth zone is kept blank in order to constitute the control zone. Measurements (T1 measurements) were made. The carbon particles were applied to the four zones by dabbing them with a make-up sponge impregnated with particles, then measurements were taken (T2 measurements).

[0101] The four zones were then rinsed by making 100 ml of water flow over the entire surface of each zone, then measurements were taken (T3 measurements).

[0102] Table 2 below counts the average number of black pixels.

[0103] [Table 2]

[0104] Table 3 gives the measurements of the mean L * parameter.

[0105] [Table 3]

[0106] Table 4 indicates the average variations between T3 and T2 (expressed in%).

[0107] [Table 4]

When the skin has been covered with a film formed from an INV1 emulsion comprising the starch according to the invention, washing with water subsequent to exposure to carbon microparticles makes it possible to reduce 59% black pixel count, and increase the L parameter by 95% * This represents a 32% greater pixel number reduction, and an increase in parameter L * 15 to 18% greater than the reference emulsions A and B. The reduction in the number of black pixels is the direct result of the reduction in the number of black particles which have adhered to the skin. The increase in the L * parameter reflects an increase in the luminosity of the skin, which results from the reduction in the number of particles which have adhered to the skin. The starch used according to the invention therefore effectively makes it possible to effectively reduce the adhesion of the microparticles to the skin.

[0109] Example 2: in-vitro measurement of cell protection

[0110] In this example, the ability of emulsions A and INV1 of Example 1 to protect cells of the epidermis from the lethal effects of micropollutants is determined by an in-vitro test. This in-vitro test consists of the comparison of cell viability on reconstructed epidermis samples when they are exposed to a mixture of micropollutants, without or with the prior application of an emulsion on the reconstructed epidermis sample. .

Table 6 shows the test conditions of six reconstructed epidermis samples, in order to determine the existence of a cellular protection of the INV1 emulsion, and that of an improvement compared to the cellular protection achieved with emulsion A. A first series of samples is submitted to the protocol without the micropollutants. A second series of samples is submitted to the protocol with micropollutants.

[0112] [Table 6]

[0113] The reconstructed epidermis is that marketed under the name "Episkin ™ RHE / Reconstructed Human Epidermis" by Episkin.

[0114] Micropollutants are a mixture of heavy metals and urban dust. The mixture of heavy metals consists of arsenic, cadmium, cobalt, chromium, nickel, lead, strontium, and antimony. Urban dust is “Urban dust 1649b NIST® SRM®” meeting the criteria of the “National Institute for Standards and Technology” SRM 1649b. [0115] The protocol is as follows:

- We place the reconstructed epidermis in a physiological environment

- An emulsion is applied to the surface of the reconstructed epidermis sample at a rate of 30 microliters per sample to form a homogeneous layer which completely covers the reconstructed epidermis sample,

- The sample is subjected to micropollutants according to the protocol for exposure to micropollutants below,

- The level of cell viability is then determined according to the MTT cell viability protocol below.

[0116] Protocol for exposure to micropollutants

[0117] 30 microliters of emulsion are applied to each sample of reconstructed epidermis. A dose of micropollutants is then applied to each sample. The samples are placed in an oven at 37 ° C., under an atmosphere containing 5 vol% of carbon dioxide, for 24 hours. At the end of the period of exposure to micropollutants, the cell viability of each sample is determined according to the MTT protocol with three repetitions.

[0118] MTT cell viability protocol

The reconstructed epidermis samples are incubated in a 1 mg / ml solution of "MTT" which is 3- [4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl] -2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide, for 3 hours at 37 ° C. The solution is then removed, replaced with isopropanol, and incubated for an additional two hours at 22 ° C. Two aliquots of each reconstructed epidermis sample are transferred to each of 96 wells of a microplate. On each well, the absorbance at 570 nm is then measured with a colorimeter equipped with a microplate reader (Tecan model F200Pro).

[0120] Cell viability is calculated using the formula:% cell viability = [absorbance at 570 nm from the sample / absorbance at 570 nm from the negative control] x 100.

The absorbance values of the six samples of the cell viability measurement are presented in Table 7 below. [0122] [Table 7]

[0123] Previous data are calculated cell viabilities of samples.

[0124] [Table 8]

[0125] In the absence of an emulsion applied to the reconstructed epidermis, a cell viability of 17.3% is observed, which reflects the lethal effect of the exposure of the cells of the reconstructed epidermis to micropollutants. The application of emulsion A increases cell viability to 35.5%.

[0126] The INV1 emulsion according to the invention makes it possible to increase cell viability to 42.5%, or 7% more compared to emulsion A, which results in 8% greater cell protection.

[0127] The film protects the explants from the penetration of micropollutants, and thus increases the number of cells which remain viable by approximately 8% compared to an emulsion according to the state of the art.

[0128] Example 3: foundation according to the invention

A foundation according to the invention is prepared according to the overall composition of Table 8, by following the protocol below. [0130] [Table 8]

We begin by dispersing the abulose SC611 in the water required for the composition, at 22 ° C. for 10 min by stirring with a deflocculating paddle at medium speed. The pigments are then dispersed successively until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, by stirring at medium speed with a deflocculating paddle. Still at 22 ° C, the pea starch is then dispersed according to the invention, Lycoat® RS720, which is a pregelatinized, hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated pea starch. Phase A thus obtained is heated to 80 ° C. with gentle stirring for approximately 20 minutes.

In parallel with the preparation of phase A, phase B is prepared by weighing the required masses of the ingredients of phase B, and by mixing them together. The entire phase B is then heated to 80 ° C.

Once phases A and B are ready and at a temperature of 80 ° C., phase B is emulsified in phase A while stirring with a deflocculating paddle at a speed of 1500-2000 rpm for 15 min. The resulting oil-in-water emulsion is then allowed to cool to 22 ° C with slow stirring with a deflocculating paddle. The preservatives and the perfume of phase C are then added, then the process is completed by adjusting the pH of the emulsion to a value of 5.8 to 6.0 by adding citric acid diluted to 30% by m. water.

[0134] Non-transfer test

[0135] In order to verify the non-transfer property of the foundation according to the invention, a test is carried out on a volunteer. The volunteer applies the foundation according to the invention on one cheek of her face, and a foundation outside the invention prepared according to a composition in the table without Lycoat® RS720 by following the same protocol, on the other play. She then waits two minutes.

[0136] On each cheek, the volunteer places tissue paper without pressure, then applies pressure using the index finger; then she repeats this operation with new tissue paper, pressing nine times with the index finger. The results of this test can be seen in Figure 3.

[0137] It is observed that the tissue paper applied to the cheek covered with the foundation outside the invention exhibits a marked stain of foundation following the first pressure, and less marked following the series of nine subsequent pressures. A visible amount of foundation has in fact been transferred to the tissue paper: this foundation outside the invention does not have non-transfer properties.

Regarding the cheek covered with the foundation according to the invention, it is noted that no trace of foundation is visible on the tissue paper, whether following the first pressure, or following the series of nine presses. The bottom of complexion according to the invention has not transferred from the skin to the tissue paper: this foundation according to the invention has a non-transfer property.

[0139] Advantages of the foundation according to the invention

[0140] The foundation according to the invention has a delicate texture, which allows medium to high coverage. This foundation protects against environmental pollution, and provides long-lasting, even, matte skin color that lasts at least a day thanks to Lycoat® RS720 starch film fixation.

[0141] Example 4: mascara according to the invention

[0142] A mascara according to the invention is prepared according to the overall composition of Table 9, following the protocol below.

[0143] [Table 9]

[0144] The mascara is prepared according to the following protocol.

[0145] The water is heated to 75 ° C, then the aluminum and magnesium silicate is slowly added with vigorous stirring with a deflocculating paddle at 1500-2000 rpm. The mixture is kept under this stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The other components of phase A are then added, successively, while waiting for a homogeneous mixture to be obtained between each addition. Phase A thus obtained is maintained at 75 ° C.

Apart from, all the constituents of phase B are mixed with stirring, then the mixture is heated to 75 ° C.

Phase B is then emulsified in phase A with stirring with a deflocculating paddle at 1500-2000 rpm. Phase C is then added slowly with moderate stirring at 500 rpm until a homogeneous mixture is reached. It is then left to cool to 22 ° C. with moderate stirring, then phase D is added.

[0148] Advantages of the mascara according to the invention

[0149] The mascara according to the invention protects the eyelashes on which it is applied, by forming a barrier film against environmental pollution. It also has a non-transfer property, meaning that the mascara adheres so well to the lashes that it remains there when the lashes are rubbed with fingers, paper, or clothing.

[0150] Example 5: lip syrup according to the invention

A long-lasting anti-pollution protective lip syrup is prepared according to the overall composition of Table 10, and by following the protocol below.

[0152] [Table 10]

[0153] At 22 ° C, we start by dispersing the Lycoat® RS720 pea starch in the water, gently stirring with a deflocculating paddle. The Beauté by Roquette PO 070 sorbitol and the Beauté by Roquette PO 370 xylitol are then added until complete dissolution and a homogeneous mixture is obtained, still with gentle stirring. We obtain phase A1 + A2.

[0154] The xanthan gum is then dispersed in phase A1 + A2 until a homogeneous mixture is reached. The ingredients of phase C are then added successively to the whole, with gentle stirring.

[0155] A lip syrup is thus obtained which offers a syrup texture thanks to the xanthan gum, and which, thanks to Lycoat® RS720, offers a slippery sensation during application, and not sticky when applied to the lips. Lip syrup forms a protective and fixing film on the lips, which protects them from environmental pollution, and which allows humectants (sorbitol and xylitol) to hydrate the lips well.

Claims

[Claim 1] Use of at least one legume starch, in a preparation for topical use, as a film-forming agent with a barrier effect against environmental pollution, and / or with a fixing effect, characterized in that said starch has:

[Claim 2] Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said leguminous starch is chosen from pea starches, starches from chickpeas, broad beans, field beans, beans, lupines, lentils, and preferably is chosen from pea starch, and most preferably is a starch from Pisum sativum.

[Claim 3] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said leguminous starch is a chemically modified leguminous starch, preferably chosen from hydroxyalkylated legume starches, carboxyalkylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinylated, succinylated, acetylated.

[Claim 4] Use according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that said legume starch is hydroxyalkylated, preferably hydroxypropyl.

[Claim 5] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of hydroxyalkyl groups ranges from 0.1 to 20% by dry weight relative to the dry weight of hydroxyalkylated starch, preferably from 1 to 10%.

[Claim 6] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said legume starch is chosen from hydrolyzed, thinned or dextrinified legume starches.

[Claim 7] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said legume starch is chosen from pregelatinized or atomized legume starches.

[Claim 8] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the legume starch is a hydroxypropylated, hydrolyzed and pregelatinized pea starch.

[Claim 9] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass content of film-forming legume starch with a barrier and / or fixing effect in the preparation for topical use ranges from 0.6% to 50% by weight per relative to the whole of the preparation for topical use, preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15%, and most preferably around 10%.

[Claim 10] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the barrier effect to environmental pollution makes it possible to reduce or prevent atmospheric microparticles suspended in the air and / or allergenic, harmful volatile organic compounds. or toxic to the skin, to come into contact with the skin.

[Claim 11] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the barrier effect to environmental pollution allows the protection of the cells of the epidermis and of the keratinocytes, preferably makes it possible to increase the cell viability of the cells of the epidermis and / or keratinocytes.

[Claim 12] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said preparation for topical use is chosen from skin care products, preferably chosen from day creams, sun creams, after-sun creams, self-tanners, masks; hair care products, preferably chosen from shampoos, conditioners in the form of creams or masks or lotions, hair care products styling in the form of spray or gels or waxes, coloring products; makeup products, preferably chosen from foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, lipsticks, lip syrups, eyeliners, nail varnishes; hygiene products, preferably chosen from washing gels, cleansing or make-up removing wipes, or hydroalcoholic solutions or gels.

[Claim 13] Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the leguminous starch is the only starch film-forming agent or of starch origin in said preparation.

[Claim 14] Use of at least one hydroxyalkylated, preferably hydroxypropylated, leguminous starch in a preparation for topical use, as a film-forming agent with a fixing effect, characterized in that said starch has:

a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 20% by weight of dry matter and at 25 ° C of between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa.s, more preferably between 50 and 1000 mPa.s, all preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.s, and even more preferably around 150 mPa.s, and

- a mass content of 0.6% to 50% by weight relative to the whole of the preparation for topical use, preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15%, and most preferably at around 10%.

[Claim 15] Use of at least one hydroxyalkylated, preferably hydroxypropylated, leguminous starch in a preparation for topical use, as a film-forming agent with a barrier effect against environmental pollution, characterized in that said starch has: