EP3817619A1 - Schmuckstück mit einem dreidimensionalen gitter zum tragen von zierelementen - Google Patents

Schmuckstück mit einem dreidimensionalen gitter zum tragen von zierelementen

Info

Publication number
EP3817619A1
EP3817619A1 EP19733834.6A EP19733834A EP3817619A1 EP 3817619 A1 EP3817619 A1 EP 3817619A1 EP 19733834 A EP19733834 A EP 19733834A EP 3817619 A1 EP3817619 A1 EP 3817619A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jewelry
decorative
strands
decorative elements
cable
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP19733834.6A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3817619B1 (de
Inventor
Philippe Bernard
Ludovic PROVENT
Aline GUILLOTIN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cartier International AG
Original Assignee
Cartier International AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cartier International AG filed Critical Cartier International AG
Publication of EP3817619A1 publication Critical patent/EP3817619A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3817619B1 publication Critical patent/EP3817619B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/046Setting gems in a plurality of non coplanar table top planes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a jewelry item comprising a three-dimensional mesh for supporting decorative elements.
  • Document DE 29 19 912 A1 discloses a jewel comprising gold threads wound on themselves irregularly to form a sphere.
  • the gold wires are soldered together by brazing at intersection points formed by several strands of wire so as to stiffen the jewel and maintain its spherical shape.
  • a molding body can be provided so as to wind the wires around this molding body.
  • beads can be strung in one or two gold threads as an ornament.
  • the subject of the invention is a piece of jewelry comprising:
  • the configuration of this item of jewelry is such that the support mesh is more flexible while allowing the maintenance of a structure having a predetermined three-dimensional profile, such as a sphere.
  • this flexibility is obtained by the fact that the decorative elements are threaded into said at least one cable and are shaped to structure the support mesh.
  • the item of jewelry is made more flexible so that it can be elastically deformed when a slight pressure is applied thereto, thus giving the user an impression of flexibility and lightness.
  • said at least one cable comprises at least two strands extending along two distinct directions to form at least one crossing of strands, at least one of the decorative elements being threaded in each of said at least two strands at said at least one crossing of strands.
  • the latter comprises a first plurality of cables extending along a first direction and a second plurality of cables extending along a second direction transverse to the first direction to form the support mesh, a plurality of strand crossings being formed between the first and second pluralities of cables, each decorative element being jointly threaded in a first cable of the first plurality of cables and in a second cable of the second plurality of cables, at a crossover of strands.
  • each decorative element comprises at least two conduits for passage of a cable through said decorative element, each passage conduit extending in a transverse direction relative to the other of so as to form a crossing of strands inside the decorative element.
  • each element decorative comprises means for fixing the decorative element to said at least one cable on which it is threaded.
  • each decorative element of a portion of the plurality of decorative elements comprises means for fixing the decorative element to at least one cable on which it is threaded, the portion of the plurality of decorative elements preferably forming an amount equal to or greater than 50% of the plurality of decorative elements.
  • the fixing means comprise a compression screw extending transversely to said at least two passage conduits and configured to compress at least one strand disposed inside one of said passage conduits against the decorative element.
  • said at least two passage conduits are formed in the same plane so as to form an intersection, the compression screw being configured to compress at said intersection at least two strands s 'each extending in one of said passage conduits.
  • At least two adjacent decorative elements along a strand are in contact with each other.
  • At least two adjacent decorative elements along a strand are arranged so as to maintain a predetermined clearance between said at least two decorative elements.
  • At least two adjacent strands converge towards each other along a direction of convergence, the peripheral dimensions of the decorative elements being selectively chosen to decrease along said at least two strands following the direction of convergence.
  • the predetermined three-dimensional profile is a portion of a sphere.
  • each element decorative element comprises a decorative face, each decorative element being threaded onto said at least cable so that the decorative face is oriented towards the outside of the predetermined three-dimensional profile.
  • the three-dimensional profile is at least one portion of the outer casing of a volume forming a hollow space inside the portion of the casing.
  • the arrangement of the support mesh is configured to allow the elastic deformation of a portion of the support mesh under the action of a predetermined force, thus deforming the three-dimensional profile, and recalling said portion when the predetermined force is no longer applied to said portion so that the three-dimensional profile is reformed.
  • a set of jewelry comprising at least two items of jewelry as described above and means for securing the support meshes with each other.
  • FIGS. 1 and 2 each represent a perspective view, one of which is partially exploded, of a piece of jewelry according to an exemplary embodiment of the invention
  • FIGS. 3 and 4 each represent a detailed perspective view, one of which is an exploded view, of a decorative element of the article of jewelry according to FIGS. 1 and 2;
  • FIG. 5 represents a perspective view of an exemplary embodiment of a jewelry assembly comprising a plurality of jewelry items according to FIGS. 1 and 2.
  • a piece of jewelry 10 comprises a plurality of cables 12 arranged to form a support mesh 14 and a plurality of decorative elements 16 threaded, ie enamelled, in the plurality of cables 12.
  • a cable can comprise at least one wire.
  • the cables 12 can be made of precious or common metal, nylon or other polymer.
  • the cables 12 can be sheathed or unsheathed.
  • the cables 12 are made of a common metal, for example stainless steel, and are sheathed with a coating for example of white nylon.
  • the term “mesh” is understood here to mean a network of cables or strands extending in at least two different directions and forming a mesh node at each intersection of at least two cables or strands.
  • the term “cable” here means a thin and elongated element whose flexibility allows it to be manipulated to take a desired curvature or profile. More generally, the cable can be called a wire.
  • the terminology “cable” is used throughout this description but can be replaced by the term “wire” without changing its scope within the meaning of this presentation.
  • the cable or wire can be braided, i.e. composed of several rods braided together and extending in a main direction of elongation, or composed of a single solid rod.
  • strand is meant a portion or segment of cable or wire.
  • a strand is a portion or segment of the wire between two consecutive nodes or a crossover of a mesh.
  • Each cable 12 comprises a plurality of strands 18 corresponding to a portion of cable 12 disposed between two consecutive nodes 19 of the support mesh 14. More generally, the item of jewelry 10 may comprise at least one cable 12 arranged to form the support mesh 14. In the latter case, the cable 12 also comprises a plurality of strands 18 between each node 19 of the support mesh 14.
  • the support mesh 14 may include strands 18 extending transversely to a surface envelope defined by the support mesh 14.
  • the plurality of strands 18 preferably extends along two distinct directions to form at least one crossing of strands 18, ie a node 19 of the support mesh 14.
  • the two directions of extension of the strands 18 are preferably transverse, more preferably orthogonal, one with respect to the other.
  • the support mesh 14 of the figures 1 and 2 define a partially spherical envelope.
  • the support mesh 14 can define an envelope having a different profile, such as a geometric or non-geometric profile.
  • a first plurality of cables 12 converge at a junction point 15.
  • at least two adjacent strands converge towards one another along a direction of convergence towards the point junction 15.
  • a second plurality of cables 12 extending transversely to the first plurality of cables are arranged parallel to each other and form circles of different diameters.
  • the second plurality of cables 12 form circles whose diameter increases from the upper point 15 to the periphery of the support mesh 14.
  • the two directions of extension of the strands 18 correspond, in the example of FIGS. 1 and 2, to the longitude and the latitude of the spherical profile of the item of jewelry 10.
  • the cables 12 preferably form parallels and meridians of the support mesh 14.
  • the nodes 19 of the support mesh 14 are each formed at an intersection of a strand 18 extending in a first direction with another strand extending in the second direction transverse to the first direction. In other words, the nodes 19 of the support mesh 14 are thus each formed at an intersection of a longitude and a latitude when the support mesh defines a spherical surface.
  • the decorative elements 16 are threaded through the cables 12 and shaped to structure the support mesh 14 according to a predetermined three-dimensional profile.
  • the term “three-dimensional profile” is intended to mean an envelope or portion of an outer envelope of a volume.
  • the three-dimensional profile therefore preferably defines a hollow or empty space within it.
  • the support mesh 14 thus preferably forms a two-dimensional surface defining the envelope or the three-dimensional outer envelope portion of a volume. Therefore, an empty space inside the three-dimensional profile is formed.
  • the configuration of the decorative elements 16 and of the cables 12 makes it possible to maintain a cohesion of the support mesh 14 allowing the maintenance of the three-dimensional profile without reinforcing element in the space inside the three-dimensional profile.
  • the arrangement of the support mesh 14 thus makes it possible to arrange the decorative elements 16 only at the periphery of the three-dimensional profile so as to obtain a piece of jewelry 10 whose perception is more structured.
  • this predetermined three-dimensional profile is a portion of a sphere, in particular a half-sphere.
  • the predetermined three-dimensional profile can be any three-dimensional profile whose external surface can be defined by a support mesh 14.
  • structural is meant the fact that the shape of the decorative elements 16 as well as their cooperation with the cables 12 allow the shaping, as well as the keeping in shape, of the support mesh 14 according to the predetermined three-dimensional profile.
  • the arrangement of the decorative elements 16 with the cables 12 allows a two-dimensional support mesh 14 to be shaped according to a three-dimensional profile.
  • the support mesh 14 and the decorative elements 16 form a surface envelope, or quasi-surface, of the predetermined three-dimensional profile.
  • the decorative elements 16 are configured to participate in the positioning and the maintenance in position of the nodes 19 of the support mesh 14.
  • the decorative elements 16 are preferably threaded or enamelled in at least two strands 18.
  • the decorative elements 16 are preferably arranged at an intersection or a crossing of at least two strands 18, ie at a knot 19 of the support mesh 14.
  • each decorative element 16 may comprise at least two conduits 22 for the passage of a cable 12 through said decorative element 16, as visible in FIGS. 3 and 4.
  • Each passage duct 22 preferably extends in a transverse direction relative to the other so as to form a crossing of strands 18 inside the decorative element 16.
  • the two passage conduits 22 can be formed in the same plane. In other words, the two passage conduits 22 form an intersection so that they are in communication with one another. The fact of making the two passage conduits 22 in the same plane allows the support mesh 14 to be not very thick because the strands 18 intersect substantially in the same plane. In practice, the strands 18 overlap at the intersection of passage conduits 22 while extending inside the passage conduits 22 which are produced in the same plane.
  • a support mesh 14 of reduced thickness makes it possible to guarantee flexibility of the support mesh 14 when it is handled.
  • the support mesh 14 as well as the decorative elements are configured to allow elastic deformation of the support mesh 14 when handling the article of jewelry 10.
  • the support mesh 14 can therefore be deformed punctually, in particular at the level of 'a node 19, and resume its predetermined three-dimensional profile when the pressure is no longer exerted.
  • the article of jewelry 10 thus gives an impression of flexibility and lightness to the wearer.
  • passage conduits 22 can extend along different planes spaced from each other.
  • the item of jewelry 10 preferably comprises means for fixing the decorative elements 16 to the strands 18 on which they are threaded.
  • fixing means at the level of the decorative elements makes it possible to precisely position each decorative element on the support mesh. It is thus possible to vary locally the density of decorative elements on the support mesh, for example when it is desired to obtain a support mesh comprising curvatures. Indeed, a variation in the density of decorative elements associated with a variation in the size of the decorative elements makes it possible to obtain an improved visual effect, in particular by producing a more uniform decoration.
  • the fixing means make it possible to fix several strands of said cable or wire so as to be able to form a crossing or a node of the support mesh.
  • the fixing of these crossings or nodes makes it possible to maintain a cohesion of the support mesh and to vary the flexibility of this support mesh. Indeed, by locally densifying the number of crossings, it is possible to locally stiffen the support mesh. Conversely, a smaller number of crossings makes it possible to locally soften the support mesh. It is thus possible to adjust the flexibility of the support mesh while retaining good cohesion thereof, in particular by maintaining the three-dimensional profile.
  • the fixing means are preferably arranged at a face opposite to a decorative face of the decorative element 16 so as to form a decorative upper portion and a functional lower portion for fixing to the strands 18.
  • the strands 18 are intersect under the decorative elements 16 so as to hide the strands as much as possible 18. This makes it possible to obtain a piece of jewelry 10 showing mainly the decorative faces 24.
  • the decorative elements 16 is equipped with the fixing means.
  • the decorative elements 16 devoid of fixing means therefore only have the said at least two passage conduits 22 to allow the passage, or even the crossing, of the strands 18 inside the decorative elements to maintain the cohesion of the support mesh 14.
  • the strands 18 can slide inside the decorative elements 16 devoid of fixing means.
  • the partial absence of fastening means makes it possible to reduce the mass of the jewelry item 10.
  • the number of decorative elements 16 without fastening means is less than half, or 50%, of the plurality decorative elements 16. More preferably, the number of decorative elements 16 without fixing means is equal to or less than 40% or 30% of the plurality of decorative elements 16.
  • the fixing means comprise for example a compression screw 24 extending transversely to said at least two passage conduits 22.
  • the compression screw 24 is configured to compress at least one strand 18 disposed inside one of said conduits passage 22 against part of the decorative element 16.
  • the compression screw 24 is preferably configured to compress, at said intersection of the passage conduits 22, at at least two strands 18 each extending in one of said passage conduits 22.
  • the compression screw 24 preferably extends perpendicular to the passage conduits 22.
  • the decorative elements without fixing means are therefore without compression screw 24 and the tapped hole allowing the introduction of this compression screw 24.
  • the decorative elements 16 without fixing means preferably have a thinner kitten that the decorative elements 16 having fixing means so as to further reduce the mass of the item of jewelry 10.
  • an additional product can be inserted around the compression screw 24 to reduce the risks of loosening.
  • This additional product is for example a fluid braking product known under the name of "Loctite” (registered trademark), or otherwise called "brake thread”.
  • the peripheral dimensions of the decorative elements 16 can be variable.
  • the peripheral dimensions or the geometry of the decorative elements 16 can be selectively chosen to adapt to the predetermined three-dimensional profile.
  • the peripheral dimensions of the decorative elements 16 can be selectively chosen to decrease in the direction of this convex portion.
  • the dimensions peripherals of the decorative elements 16 can be selectively chosen to grow in the direction of this convex portion.
  • the peripheral dimensions of the decorative elements 16 are selectively chosen to decrease along the cables 12 converging towards the junction point 15.
  • At least two decorative elements 16 adjacent along a strand 18 may be in contact with each other.
  • the peripheral dimensions of the decorative elements 16 are configured so that each decorative element is in contact with the decorative elements which are adjacent to it. This bringing the decorative elements into contact with each other makes it possible to improve the behavior of the predetermined three-dimensional profile by limiting the displacements of the decorative elements after they have been mounted on the support mesh 14. In addition, this bringing into contact makes it easier to assemble the 'article of jewelry 10 by previously defining the relative positions of the decorative elements 16 between them.
  • At least two decorative elements 16 adjacent along a strand 18 can be arranged so as to maintain a predetermined clearance or space between said at least two decorative elements 16.
  • said at least two decorative elements 16 are not in contact with each other. Maintaining the play or the space can be obtained either by fixing means integrated into the two decorative elements or by the action of fixing means of decorative elements 16 adjacent to said at least two decorative elements 16.
  • the holding a strand 18 by means of fixing downstream or upstream of a decorative element 16 considered makes it possible to block or limit the sliding of said decorative element 16 in a direction transverse to the strand 18.
  • each decorative element 16 comprises a decorative face 20 mounted on a body 21, otherwise called a kitten.
  • This decorative face 20 is preferably a precious stone, for example a diamond. The stone can be mounted on the kitten by any suitable means such as gluing or soldering.
  • Each decorative element 16 is preferably threaded or enamelled on a cable 12 so that the decorative face 20 is oriented towards the outside of the predetermined three-dimensional profile.
  • all of the decorative faces 20 are preferably arranged on the same side of the support mesh 14 so as to produce a quasi-continuous decorative surface.
  • Each decorative face 20 preferably has peripheral dimensions similar to those of the body 21 on which it is arranged. Alternatively, the peripheral dimensions of the decorative faces 20 may be greater than the peripheral dimensions of the body 21 on which they are arranged to extend beyond the body 21 to at least partially hide it.
  • the jewelry set 30 comprises means 32 for securing the support meshes 14 between them.
  • the securing means 32 preferably comprise a rod 34 securing together the support meshes 14 of at least two pieces of jewelry 10.
  • the rod 34 is integral with a circle of the second plurality of cables 12. More preferably, the circle of which the rod 34 is integral is preferably the circle having the largest diameter of the item of jewelry 10.
  • Each support mesh 14 may comprise a reinforced junction portion 36 extending partially or totally along a circle of the second plurality of cables 12.
  • the circle along which the reinforced junction portion 36 extends is preferably the circle having the largest diameter of the jewelry item 10.
  • the rod 34 preferably extends between two reinforced junction portions 36 to secure two pieces of jewelry 10 between them.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
EP19733834.6A 2018-07-04 2019-07-02 Schmuckstück mit einem dreidimensionalen gitter zum tragen von zierelementen Active EP3817619B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1856163A FR3083430B1 (fr) 2018-07-04 2018-07-04 Article de joaillerie comprenant un maillage tridimensionnel de support d'elements decoratifs
PCT/EP2019/067778 WO2020007883A1 (fr) 2018-07-04 2019-07-02 Article de joaillerie comprenant un maillage tridimensionnel de support d'éléments décoratifs

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3817619A1 true EP3817619A1 (de) 2021-05-12
EP3817619B1 EP3817619B1 (de) 2023-08-30

Family

ID=63312150

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19733834.6A Active EP3817619B1 (de) 2018-07-04 2019-07-02 Schmuckstück mit einem dreidimensionalen gitter zum tragen von zierelementen

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US11540601B2 (de)
EP (1) EP3817619B1 (de)
CN (1) CN112351704B (de)
FR (1) FR3083430B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2020007883A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USD964875S1 (en) * 2021-11-15 2022-09-27 Dongjun Lin Protective case for a watch
USD971766S1 (en) * 2022-03-30 2022-12-06 Zhijun Sun Watch case
USD971768S1 (en) * 2022-06-21 2022-12-06 Dongguan Coolyep Electronic Technology Co., Limited Protective case for smartwatch
USD1006665S1 (en) * 2023-07-20 2023-12-05 Guoxiong CHEN Watch case

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US1499769A (en) * 1922-12-07 1924-07-01 Godefroy Marcel Fabricated beadwork
US1781687A (en) * 1929-12-07 1930-11-18 Leo Weiner Ornamenting device and method of making the same
US1927038A (en) * 1932-04-20 1933-09-19 Frank M Kane Mounting for ornamental articles
US2096337A (en) * 1936-09-21 1937-10-19 Pultar Catherine Basket structure
US2102746A (en) * 1937-03-01 1937-12-21 Evans Case Co Ornamentation
CH488425A (de) * 1968-09-19 1970-04-15 Schilling Achim Halterung für edle Steine
US3742730A (en) * 1969-06-09 1973-07-03 E Powell String of beads having plural rows with differently oriented bores
US3708862A (en) * 1971-06-10 1973-01-09 E Powell Method of stringing beads
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CN2370267Y (zh) * 1999-03-12 2000-03-22 李诚一 珠体编织的灯罩
TW435234U (en) * 2000-09-13 2001-05-16 Chenshiue Shiou Mei Improved structure of hula hoop
JP3400997B2 (ja) * 2002-05-27 2003-04-28 達也 石橋 宝飾体と装身具と宝飾体の製造方法
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JP4350500B2 (ja) * 2003-12-24 2009-10-21 セイコーインスツル株式会社 腕時計
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2020007883A1 (fr) 2020-01-09
US20210321730A1 (en) 2021-10-21
US11540601B2 (en) 2023-01-03
FR3083430A1 (fr) 2020-01-10
CN112351704B (zh) 2024-05-07
EP3817619B1 (de) 2023-08-30
FR3083430B1 (fr) 2021-10-15
CN112351704A (zh) 2021-02-09

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