EP3739096A1 - Nähmaschine zum annähen eines bundes an hosen oder röcke - Google Patents

Nähmaschine zum annähen eines bundes an hosen oder röcke Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3739096A1
EP3739096A1 EP20172510.8A EP20172510A EP3739096A1 EP 3739096 A1 EP3739096 A1 EP 3739096A1 EP 20172510 A EP20172510 A EP 20172510A EP 3739096 A1 EP3739096 A1 EP 3739096A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sewing
worktop
top surface
waistband
movable top
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP20172510.8A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Bruno Mancini
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Jam International Srl
Jam Int Srl
Original Assignee
Jam International Srl
Jam Int Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Jam International Srl, Jam Int Srl filed Critical Jam International Srl
Publication of EP3739096A1 publication Critical patent/EP3739096A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B27/00—Work-feeding means
    • D05B27/10—Work-feeding means with rotary circular feed members
    • D05B27/14—Work-feeding means with rotary circular feed members rotating discontinuously
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B27/00—Work-feeding means
    • D05B27/10—Work-feeding means with rotary circular feed members
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding

Definitions

  • This patent application for industrial invention relates to a sewing machine used for sewing a waistband on the upper edge of trousers or skirts.
  • the field of reference is the textile sector, and particularly the realization of waistbands for trousers or skirts; namely, the term "waistband” of trousers refers to the ending portion of the trousers or the skirt where the belt loops are made.
  • the present invention was devised for sewing a waistband on the upper edge of trousers or skirts, the same invention can be used for all applications that require sewing two lateral parallel edges of a fabric with different thickness. Otherwise said, the present invention can be used for the realization of parts that have a similar configuration to the one of trousers or skirts.
  • Figs. 1 to 2 show a conventional pair of trousers and a conventional waistband, in particular;
  • trousers are made according to the shape of the human body, which is different for men and women.
  • reference is made to the shape of the pelvis, which is very different for men and women.
  • a waistband (C) must have a shape like the one shown in Fig. 2 , which is composed of:
  • the waistband (C) comprises two longitudinal sides (Cc, Cr).
  • the waistband (C) for trousers is realized in a separate piece and is then sewn on the trousers (L).
  • the waistband (C) is made by providing a fabric that is folded along its longitudinal axis.
  • the fabric can be folded in two different ways, thus obtaining two waistbands of different type, as shown in Fig. 1A and 1B .
  • the waistband (C) has two borders (B) in correspondence of one of the two longitudinal sides.
  • the waistband (C) has two borders (B) for each longitudinal side (Cr, Cc) in correspondence of the two longitudinal sides (Cr, Cc).
  • an upper edge (L1) of the trousers (L) is positioned between the two borders (B) of a longitudinal side (Cc, Cr) of the waistband (C).
  • the waistband (C) is sewn by sewing the longitudinal side wherein the upper edge (L1) of the trousers (L) is disposed (joining seam) and by sewing the opposite longitudinal side (finishing seam).
  • joining side refers to the longitudinal side of the waistband (C) wherein the upper edge (L1) of the trousers (L) is disposed
  • finishing side refers to the longitudinal side in opposite position to said joining side (Cc).
  • the sewing is made by means of an ordinary sewing machine (100) comprising:
  • Two seams can be made by disposing the waistband and the trousers on the worktop and by pulling them with the puller device, namely one seam in the joining side (Cc) and one seam in the finishing side (Cr).
  • the joining side (Cc) and the finishing side (Cr) of the waistband (C) have a different thickness.
  • the thickness of the joining side (Cc) is higher than the thickness of the finishing side (Cr) because the upper edge (L1) of the trousers (L), which is disposed between the two borders (B), increases the thickness of the joining side (Cc).
  • Such a difference in thickness results in a difference in the pressure exerted by the puller device against the two sides of the waistband, and consequently in a different traveling speed along the worktop of one side compared to the other side.
  • the puller device exerts a higher pressure on the joining side (Cc) because of its higher thickness and therefore said joining side (Cc) will travel along the worktop with a higher speed than the finishing side (Cr).
  • Such a different speed of the two sides can be useful in order to sew the curvilinear portion (C21, C22) of the waistband (C) because the two sides (Cc, Cr) have a different length in correspondence of said curvilinear portion (C21, C22).
  • the sewing precision will depend on the action performed by said complex additional devices, which are difficult to use and need to be programmed, if they are automatically operated; moreover, in such a case, the quality of the final result is largely affected by the accuracy of the programming operations.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a sewing machine that is capable of varying the relative traveling speed between two sides of a fabric, without the need to use the aforementioned complex devices.
  • An additional purpose of the present invention is to provide a sewing machine that is capable of simultaneously making two parallel seams along a trajectory with rectilinear and curvilinear sections.
  • Another purpose of the present invention is to provide a sewing machine that is capable of making two opposite sides of a fabric with different thickness travel uniformly along a worktop.
  • Another purpose of the present invention is to provide a sewing machine that, in addition to achieving the aforementioned purposes, can be used manually or can be programmed in a simple way in view of the simplicity of its innovative parts.
  • the sewing machine according to the invention is defined by claim 1.
  • a sewing machine according to the invention is disclosed, which is generally indicated with the reference numeral (100).
  • the sewing machine (100) of the invention was devised for sewing fabrics, in particular a waistband (C) to an upper edge of a pair of trousers (L) or of a skirt.
  • the sewing machine (100) comprises a working station (S) and a worktop (P) in correspondence of the working station (S), whereon the fabrics are disposed.
  • the sewing machine (100) comprises a sewing head (1) and two needles (A) supported by said sewing head (1).
  • the sewing machine (100) can be also provided with additional needles (A) for decorative sewing.
  • the sewing machine (100) comprises supporting and moving means (Q) for said needles (A).
  • the supporting and moving means are suitably configured in such a way that each needle (A) can be moved closer to or away from the worktop (P).
  • said supporting and moving means (Q) are configured in such a way to move the two needles (A) synchronously.
  • the supporting and moving means (Q) for said needles (A) can be also configured in such a way to move the needles (A) along a vertical, a horizontal and a parallel direction relative to the sewing direction.
  • the sewing machine (100) comprises a puller device (8) disposed in said working station (L) downstream said needles (A).
  • the puller device (8) pulls the fabrics along the worktop (P).
  • the puller device (8) consists in a device that presses the fabrics in order to frictionally pull them along the worktop (P).
  • the sewing machine (100) also comprises a motor suitable for activating the puller device (8) in order to pull the fabrics along the worktop (P).
  • Said puller device (8) consists in a wheel (80) or in a set of wheels (80) that is/are driven into rotation by driving means, such as a belt that transmits the motion from the motor to the wheel (80) or to the wheels (80) of the puller device (8).
  • driving means such as a belt that transmits the motion from the motor to the wheel (80) or to the wheels (80) of the puller device (8).
  • the puller device (8) comprises two joint wheels (80), of which one wheel is aligned with a needle (A) and the other wheel is aligned with the other needle (A). The edge of the wheels (80) presses the fabric or fabrics.
  • the puller device (8) can directly coincide with the belt of the driving means, which presses the fabric or fabrics with its external edge.
  • the puller device (8) can be in a raised position (shown in Fig. 3 ), wherein said puller device (8) is raised and is not in contact with the fabrics, and in a lowered position (shown in Fig. 5 ) wherein said puller device (8) is lowered and is in contact with the fabric or fabrics in such a way to pull the fabric or fabrics along the worktop (P).
  • the puller device (8) is moved between said lowered position and said raised position by moving means (M).
  • the sewing machine (100) is also provided with a claw (not shown in the appended figures) disposed on the worktop (P) under the needles (A); the claw is synchronized with the movement of the needles (A) and cooperates with the puller device (8) when pulling the fabric or fabrics along the worktop (P).
  • a claw not shown in the appended figures
  • the sewing machine (100) comprises a foot or multiple feet (3) disposed in the point where said needles (A) make the sewing.
  • the foot or feet (3) press the fabrics against the claw and cooperate to move the fabric or fabrics along the worktop (P).
  • the peculiarity of the sewing machine (100) according to the invention consists in the fact that it comprises a movable top surface (5) disposed on the worktop (P) downstream the two needles, in aligned position with one of the two needles (A) and under the puller device (8), in such a way to cooperate with said puller device (8) when pulling the fabrics.
  • the sewing machine (100) comprises translation means (50) that are suitable for disposing the movable top surface (5) between a retracted position (shown in Fig. 4 ), wherein the movable top surface (5) is under or flush with said worktop (P), and an extracted position (shown in Fig. 5 ), wherein said movable top surface (5) protrudes from said worktop (P) and presses the fabrics against the puller device (8).
  • the translation means (50) are configured in such a way to dispose the movable top surface (5) in the retracted position, in the extracted position, and also in a set of intermediate positions between said retracted position and said extracted position, so that said movable top surface (5) presses the fabric or fabrics against the puller device (8) with a higher or lower force.
  • the movable top surface (5) it is possible to vary the pressure exerted on the waistband (C) against the edge of the wheel (80).
  • the pressure of the waistband (C) against the edge of the wheel (80) is increased and therefore the edge of the wheel (80) can have a higher grip on the waistband (C), thus pulling the waistband (C) along the worktop (P) at a higher speed.
  • said translation means (50) for said movable top surface (5) consist in linear actuators of mechanical type (screw/worm, cam), electromechanical type (step-by-step motor connected to a female screw whereon a worm slides), hydraulic type or pneumatic type.
  • the translation means (50) of the movable top surface (5) can be activated in a programmed way by programming a work cycle of a control unit that is operatively connected to said translation means.
  • the translation means (50) can be activated manually by means of an activation device, such as a button or a knob.
  • the movable top surface (5) By moving the movable top surface (5) from the retracted position to the extracted position, the movable top surface (5) exerts an increasingly higher pressure against the edge of the wheel (80).
  • the provision of the movable top surface (5) permits to vary the traveling speed of a longitudinal side (Cc, Cr) of a fabric.
  • the traveling speed of the finishing side (Cr) can be varied.
  • the movable top surface (5) tends to press the finishing side (Cr) against the edge of the wheel (80) of the puller device (8), so that the joining side (Cc) and the finishing side (Cr) are equally in contact with the edge of the wheel (80). In this way, being equally in contact with the two sides, the edge of the wheel (80) pulls the two sides at the same speed along the worktop (P) and under the needles (A).
  • the edge of the wheel (80) of the puller device (8) is in contact with the two longitudinal sides (Cc, Cr) in a different way.
  • the edge of the wheel (80) is in contact with higher pressure against the joining side (Cc) compared to the finishing side (Cr) and therefore the joining side (Cc) is pulled with a higher speed compared to the finishing side (Cr).
  • the process provides for realizing said waistband (C) by cutting a fabric provided with multiple portions (C11, C21, C22, C12, C3), namely:
  • the waistband (C) has two longitudinal sides (Cr, Cc), and specifically a joining side (Cc) and a finishing side (Cr).
  • Two borders (B) are provided on the joining side (Cc) or on the two longitudinal sides (Cr, Cc).
  • the upper edge (L1) is disposed in contact with the waistband (C).
  • the upper edge (L1) is positioned between two borders (B) of the waistband (C).
  • the waistband (C) and the trousers (L) are disposed on the worktop (P) under the feet, with a portion disposed under the puller device (8).
  • the puller device (8) is moved from its raised position to its lowered position (by means of the moving means (M)), in such a way that the edge of the wheel (80) of the puller device (8) is in contact with the waistband (C) and the trousers (L) disposed on the worktop (P).
  • the motor of the puller device (8) is actuated in order to sew the waistband (C) and the needles (A) are moved by activating said supporting and moving means.
  • the sewing of the waistband (C) to an upper edge (L1) of the trousers (L) provides for raising and/or lowering the movable top surface (5) when sewing said waistband (C) to said upper edge (L1).
  • the sewing of the first rectilinear ending portion (C11) is obtained by raising the movable top surface (5), in such a way that the movable top surface (5) pushes the finishing side (Cr) against the edge of the wheel (80) of the puller device (8), thus compensating the difference in thickness between the two longitudinal sides (Cr, Cc), the wheel (80) exerts the same pressure on the two longitudinal sides (Cr, Cc), which are pulled along the worktop (P) at the same speed.
  • the movable top surface (5) is lowered in order to sew the first curvilinear portion (C21).
  • the movable top surface (5) is lowered in order to benefit from the different thickness between the two longitudinal sides (Cr, Cc) in order to make the joining side (Cc) travel at a higher speed than the finishing side (Cr).
  • the joining side (Cc) has a higher length than the finishing side (Cr) in the curvilinear portions (C21, C22) and therefore, in order to provide the simultaneous movement of the two sides, the joining side (Cc) must travel at a higher speed compared to the finishing side (Cr).
  • the movable top surface (5) is first raised, then lowered and raised again.
  • the fabric used for the waistband (C) has curvilinear portions and rectilinear portions, the fabric may be completely rectilinear, and the curvature can be generated while sewing the fabric on the trousers (L), raising and lowering the movable top surface (5).
  • Figs. 7 and 8 show a fabric (T) with a substantially rectangular shape, which is suitable for being sewn as a waistband on a pair of trousers (L).
  • said waistband (C) will be an "anatomically designed" waistband after sewing the waistband (C) to the trousers (L) with the sewing machine (100) of the invention, as shown in Fig. 7 ;
  • the expression “anatomically designed waistband” refers to a waistband that is not completely straight, and is provided with curvilinear portions (G1, G2) suitable for being disposed in the sides (L1, L2) of the trousers (L).
  • an anatomically designed waistband can be realized; in addition to said curvilinear portions (G1, G2), said anatomically designed waistband comprises a rear central portion that is suitable for embracing the lumbar region of a user and is provided with an opposite concavity compared to the one of the curvilinear portions (G1, G2).
  • the sewing machine comprises only one movable top surface in correspondence of one of the two needles (A), in order to realize said rear central portion with opposite concavity compared to the two curvilinear portions (G1, G2) it will be simply necessary to raise the movable top surface (5) above the height that is used to realize a rectilinear portion of the waistband.
  • the sewing machine comprises two movable top surfaces (5), each of them in correspondence of one of the needles (A), it will be simply necessary to alternatively raise or lower one of said movable top surfaces (5) to realize a waistband provided with curvilinear portions with opposite concavities.
  • the sewing machine (100) can be provided with two movable top surfaces (5) in side-by-side position, of which one is aligned with a needle (A), and the other is aligned with the other needle (A), in such a way to adjust the traveling speed of the two longitudinal sides (Cr, Cc) of the waistband (C), thus achieving a higher versatility of the sewing machine (100).

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
EP20172510.8A 2019-05-13 2020-04-30 Nähmaschine zum annähen eines bundes an hosen oder röcke Withdrawn EP3739096A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT201900006780 2019-05-13

Publications (1)

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EP3739096A1 true EP3739096A1 (de) 2020-11-18

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EP20172510.8A Withdrawn EP3739096A1 (de) 2019-05-13 2020-04-30 Nähmaschine zum annähen eines bundes an hosen oder röcke

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3739096A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2020185388A (de)
CN (1) CN111926474A (de)
BR (1) BR102020009535A2 (de)
SG (1) SG10202004255SA (de)

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2706457A (en) * 1952-08-23 1955-04-19 Galkin Joseph Removable adapter plate and unitary feed roller mounting for sewing machines having auxiliary feed rollers
JP2006191969A (ja) * 2005-01-11 2006-07-27 Juki Corp ミシンのプーラー装置
WO2018054539A1 (de) * 2016-09-26 2018-03-29 Pfaff Industriesysteme Und Maschinen Gmbh Nähmaschine mit einer pullereinrichtung und nähverfahren

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2706457A (en) * 1952-08-23 1955-04-19 Galkin Joseph Removable adapter plate and unitary feed roller mounting for sewing machines having auxiliary feed rollers
JP2006191969A (ja) * 2005-01-11 2006-07-27 Juki Corp ミシンのプーラー装置
WO2018054539A1 (de) * 2016-09-26 2018-03-29 Pfaff Industriesysteme Und Maschinen Gmbh Nähmaschine mit einer pullereinrichtung und nähverfahren

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN111926474A (zh) 2020-11-13
SG10202004255SA (en) 2020-12-30
JP2020185388A (ja) 2020-11-19
BR102020009535A2 (pt) 2020-12-01

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