EP3655578B1 - Machine à coudre pour coutures décoratives et fonctionnelles - Google Patents

Machine à coudre pour coutures décoratives et fonctionnelles Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3655578B1
EP3655578B1 EP18749884.5A EP18749884A EP3655578B1 EP 3655578 B1 EP3655578 B1 EP 3655578B1 EP 18749884 A EP18749884 A EP 18749884A EP 3655578 B1 EP3655578 B1 EP 3655578B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sewing machine
shaft
fabric
stitch
drive assembly
Prior art date
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Active
Application number
EP18749884.5A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3655578A1 (fr
Inventor
Ferruccio Perego
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Complett K&s Srl
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Complett K&s Srl
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Publication of EP3655578A1 publication Critical patent/EP3655578A1/fr
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B1/00General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both
    • D05B1/02General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making single-thread seams
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B1/00General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both
    • D05B1/02General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making single-thread seams
    • D05B1/04Running-stitch seams
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2209/00Use of special materials
    • D05D2209/16Thick threads or thick material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a programmable sewing machine, suitable for making decorative and functional stitching in general.
  • the invention refers to a programmable sewing machine, specifically designed for stitching so-called "running", which is generally used, for ornamental purposes, in tailored dresses, particularly in the beading of the lapels of the jackets, coats, skirts, as well as trousers, handbags, gloves and similar items.
  • the running stitch (characteristic of the hand-sewing) is formed by a single thread, of prefixed length (called “needle punched "), which crosses the flaps of the fabric along its entire length, so as to be arranged alternatively on the straight and on the reverse side of the garment being sewn, so that the running-stitches, of variable and adjustable length, are alternately visible on one and on the other side of the fabric to be sewn.
  • the traditional sewing machines which to make running-stitch, such as those described, for example, in the prior patent documents EP 1233094 and EP 1233095 , substantially employ a vertical axis needle, arranged perpendicular to a support plate, where the item to be sewn is placed.
  • the needle can be actuated with motion alternating along its axis, in such a way that it cyclically crosses the piece to be sewn, bringing, from time to time and, alternately, above and below the support plane, a needle loop of the needle-punched used for sewing; an upper end of the threaded needle-punched is pinched on the piece in seam, while the other end is left free.
  • a thread recovery wheel arranged in a plane substantially parallel to the axis of the needle is envisaged, which is composed of a fixed part, with a circular development, and a revolving part, which can be actuated with rotary motion and in synchronized way with the movement of the needle, with respect to the fixed part.
  • the containment comprises a peripheral circular channel, open in correspondence of an interruption of the fixed part of the wheel and placed on the lateral surface of the aforesaid fixed part, such that a flow of pressurized air is blown into the channel according to a direction in accordance with the direction of thread loading in the channel.
  • a further hook or upper crotchet which is arranged above the support plane, has the function of hooking the thread loop carried by the needle above the support plane and retaining it, while the thread is loaded into the storage of the recovery wheel.
  • the machine is also provided with means for moving the section of thread which extends from the piece to be sewn to storage of the thread, away from the trajectory of the needle, means for moving the same section of thread towards the trajectory of the needle and thread loading means, suitable to retain the branches of the thread loop hooked by the lower crotchet.
  • a sewing machine for decorative and functional seams with technical features that can be considered the closest state of the art to the following invention, features that are present in the preamble of the attached claim 1, are described, for example, in the documents FR2322953A1 (D1) and US3207107A (D2).
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a sewing machine for making decorative and functional seams, which is extremely versatile and suitable for avoiding excessive thread tensions, especially in the case of an ornamental stitch such as the "hand stitch", where they are extremely undesirable.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a sewing machine for making decorative and functional seams, which allows the ornamental effect to be managed to the best of the possible conditions and which is extremely safe and reliable.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine for making decorative and functional seams, which has a substantially simple construction structure, compared to traditional machines, by virtue of the advantages obtained.
  • the sewing machine 20 for stitch by hand with a fixed needle employs a drive assembly of two shafts 10, 11, which, driven by an electric motor 12 which actuates a rocker system 13, can be inserted alternately between the material (fabric 21) of the piece being machined and thread 22 of the seam, in correspondence with the hole 14 where the needle 23 of the sewing machine 20 runs, so as to create a temporary bigger thickness of the fabric 21 being processed by drawing more yarn to complete the stitch.
  • the rocker system 13 comprises two sleds 15, which cooperate with a shaped central core 16, which, driven by the electric motor 12, allows to alternately move the shaft 10 or the shaft 11, which can thus be inserted alternately among them, between the material or fabric 21 being processed and the thread 22 of the seam at the hole 14 formed on the plate 17 of the machine 20 where the needle 23 runs.
  • a single shaft 10 or 11 When a single shaft 10 or 11 is used, it is actuated so as to pass from a rest position to a working position and vice versa; in the working position the shaft 10, 11 is placed below the plate 17 and the fabric 21, in correspondence of the hole 14 where the needle 23 of the machine 20 runs.
  • the insertion of the shaft 10 or 11 allows to create, if necessary, a temporary thickness beyond the plate 17 on which the thread 22 of the seam slides; this makes it possible to call up more thread to complete the lower stitch of the seam.
  • a first shaft 11 is thinner to obtain a smaller thickness (and therefore usable for a shorter stitch of the seam), while a second shaft 10 has a greater thickness and can be used in the case of a longer stitching point.
  • the drive assembly can be actuated, by means of the rocker 13, mechanically (in which case the mechanism can only be used in combination with one of the shafts 10, 11, since the movement is unidirectional) or electronically; in the latter case, the electric motor 12 allows a bidirectional movement and is therefore able to make the assembly work also in the version with two shafts 10, 11.
  • Figures 5, 6 , 11 and 12 show a view of the drive assembly according to the invention in which the two shafts 10, 11 are in rest position and facing the hole 14 where the needle 23 of the sewing machine 20 is inserted, while figures 7, 8, 9, 10 , 13, 14 , 15 and 16 show relative positions according to which the shafts 10, 11 are moved forward at the hole 14 of the plate 17 where the needle 23 of the machine 20 is inserted; since the shaft 10, 11 have different thicknesses, the displacement at the hole 14 where the needle 23 is inserted, alternatively, of one or the other shaft 10, 11 determines the use for a shorter point (with 'thinner shaft) or longer (with the thicker shaft).
  • each shaft 10, 11 being actuated forward and then inserted below the fabric 21 of the garment being machined and the plate 17, with an end located at the hole 14 where the needle is inserted during its advancement in direction perpendicular to the fabric 21, creates a greater "provisional" thickness, recalling more thread to complete the lower stitch; when the shaft 10, 11 is disengaged, being actuated backwards, it leaves a stitch with a more abundant thread, thus avoiding excessive stresses (which, in the case of machining carried out for ornamental stitches, which is the hand stitch carried out from this type of sewing machines, they are undesirable).
  • the aforesaid device very simple and functional, allows to perform the sewing operation by choosing to activate or not activate each of the shaft 10, 11 depending on the materials (fabrics) of the garment being worked and the sewing threads to be used (which, for the realization of ornamental stitch, are more and more varied and problematic).
  • the sewing machine according to the invention fully achieves the intended task, as it is able to offer absolute versatility of operation, allowing to manage the ornamental effect of the stitch by hand to the best of the possible conditions.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Claims (5)

  1. Machine à coudre (20) pour des coutures décoratives et fonctionnelles, apte à réaliser le point courant et ledit point courant étant formé à partir d'un seul fil (22) d'une longueur prédéterminée qui passe à travers les bords d'un tissu (21) en cours de traitement pour une longueur déterminée, de manière à se disposer alternativement sur l'endroit et l'envers du tissu, afin que les points de couture, de longueur variable et réglable, soient alternativement visibles sur un côté et sur l'autre du tissu, comprenant une aiguille (23) avec un axe vertical, disposée perpendiculairement à une plaque ou plaque de support (17), où elle est placée sur le tissu (21) à coudre, et pouvant fonctionner avec un mouvement alternatif le long de son axe vertical, dans lequel ladite machine à coudre comprend un ensemble d'entraînement qui entraîne au moins un arbre (10, 11) au moyen d'un moteur électrique (12) qui actionne un système de bascule (13), entre une position de travail, selon laquelle ledit au moins un arbre (10, 11) est inséré plus bas dans ladite plaque de support (17) du tissu (21) dans une position préfixée correspondant à un trou (14) de ladite plaque (17) où ladite aiguille (23) se déplace pendant son mouvement vertical, et une position de repos, selon laquelle ledit au moins un arbre (10, 11) est désinséré de ladite position préfixée,
    caractérisée en ce que ledit système de bascule (13) comprend deux traîneaux (15) coopérant avec un noyau central façonné (16), qui permet de déplacer alternativement en translation deux arbres (10, 11), afin de créer une plus grande épaisseur provisoire dudit tissu, en tirant plus de fil pour réaliser un point inférieur.
  2. Machine à coudre (20) selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que lesdits deux arbres (10, 11) ont une épaisseur différente et un premier arbre (10), plus fin, est utilisable pour un point de couture plus court, tandis qu'un deuxième arbre (11) ayant une largeur plus importante est utilisable pour des points de couture plus longs.
  3. Machine à coudre selon (20) au moins l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit ensemble d'entraînement est activé de manière mécanique.
  4. Machine à coudre (20) selon au moins une des revendications de 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que ledit ensemble d'entraînement est actionné, au moyen dudit système de bascule (13), de manière électronique.
  5. Machine à coudre (20) selon la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce que ledit moteur électrique (12) dudit ensemble d'entraînement permet un mouvement bidirectionnel desdits deux arbres (10, 11).
EP18749884.5A 2017-07-18 2018-07-13 Machine à coudre pour coutures décoratives et fonctionnelles Active EP3655578B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102017000081389A IT201700081389A1 (it) 2017-07-18 2017-07-18 Macchina cucitrice per cuciture decorative e funzionali
PCT/IT2018/050131 WO2019016840A1 (fr) 2017-07-18 2018-07-13 Machine à coudre pour coutures décoratives et fonctionnelles

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3655578A1 EP3655578A1 (fr) 2020-05-27
EP3655578B1 true EP3655578B1 (fr) 2022-11-09

Family

ID=60570100

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18749884.5A Active EP3655578B1 (fr) 2017-07-18 2018-07-13 Machine à coudre pour coutures décoratives et fonctionnelles

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3655578B1 (fr)
IT (1) IT201700081389A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2019016840A1 (fr)

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH369653A (fr) * 1959-09-23 1963-05-31 Castany Ferre Jose Procédé pour effectuer une couture à points alternés sur l'une et l'autre face d'un tissu et dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé
IT1042317B (it) * 1975-09-05 1980-01-30 Conti R Metodo per la formazione meccanica del punto a filza e macchina da cucire con ago speciale per la ese cuzione di detto metodo
US4169422A (en) * 1976-03-29 1979-10-02 Union Special Corporation Automatic chain-stitch sewing machine
DE3419950C2 (de) * 1983-07-29 1994-06-01 Complett Spa Stichtyp und Verfahren und Vorrichtung zu seiner Herstellung
US5333565A (en) * 1992-10-30 1994-08-02 Mim Industries, Inc. Thread cutting via reciprocating arm with pockets and a trimming plate
JP3688076B2 (ja) * 1996-09-12 2005-08-24 ジューキ株式会社 ミシン
US6378448B1 (en) * 2000-10-31 2002-04-30 Chun-Zen Hunang Thread cutting device for a sewing machine
ITMI20081006A1 (it) * 2008-05-30 2009-11-30 Lonati Spa Testa di cucitura o di rimagliatura, particolarmente per la chiusura automatizzata di manufatti tubolari a maglia in corrispondenza di una loro estremita' assiale.
JP5481624B2 (ja) * 2009-03-11 2014-04-23 株式会社鈴木製作所 1本糸錠縫化ハンドステッチミシン

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2019016840A1 (fr) 2019-01-24
EP3655578A1 (fr) 2020-05-27
IT201700081389A1 (it) 2019-01-18

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