EP3630299A1

EP3630299A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a fish egg extract

Info

Publication number: EP3630299A1
Application number: EP18725796.9A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Daniel Stangl; Bernhard DUDLER
Original assignee: Prairie Group AG
Current assignee: Prairie Group AG
Priority date: 2017-05-22
Filing date: 2018-05-11
Publication date: 2020-04-08
Also published as: KR102636843B1; CN110621380A; CH713169B1; KR20200007846A; US20210283045A1; WO2018215218A1; JP2020521005A

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a fish egg extract, characterized in that the fish egg extract can be obtained by suspending the fish eggs in an extraction mixture that contains an oil phase and an aqueous phase, homogenizing the suspension mixture, and extracting the oil phase of the homogenized mixture.

Description

Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a fish extract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a fish extract for enhancing the expression of laminin. In addition, the invention provides a method for providing a fish extract, in which fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, the resulting suspension is homogenized, and the oil phase of the homogenate is extracted to obtain the fish extract according to the invention.

Looking beautiful and attractive is a need of many people. Often, a pure and wrinkle-free skin is considered the ideal of beauty. To meet this, the most diverse cosmetic products are used for the daily care of the human skin.

The outermost human skin layer is described as the epidermis, which is the only keratinizing squamous epithelium of the human body. Basically, this epithelium fulfills various protective functions: Among other things, it serves as a mechanical protection, which is primarily generated by the multi-layered structure. The epidermis of the skin must have sufficient resistance to tearing and must not be spread from the skin

Remove underlying connective tissue.

Between the epithelium and the connective tissue is the basal membrane, whose uppermost layer is called the basal lamina. The basal lamina has a thickness of about 20 nm, the entire basement membrane has a thickness of about 1-2 pm. The basal lamina is immediately adjacent to the epithelial cell and is further subdivided into the lamina rara and the lamina densa according to its electron permeability. The lamina rara and underlying lamina densa consist mainly of the type IV collagen proteins and laminin, which is cross-linked with the extracellular domains of the epithelial cell membrane integrins, as well as entactin (nidogen) and proteoglycans such as pearlcan. In addition, other proteins may be associated with the addressed matrix components.

The contained laminins are collagen-like glycoproteins with a molecular weight in the range of 400 to 900 kDa. Generally, laminin consists of 3 structural components called o, β and γ chains. The molecule has 4 arms, 3 of which can bind to other laminin molecules. The remaining, longer arm binds to cell surfaces. As is clear from the above description, laminin is of great importance for the cohesion of the tissues, the so-called cell adhesion. In addition, laminin carries not only for cell attachment and differentiation but also to

Maintaining the tissue phenotype. However, if an abnormal formation of laminin occurs, it may, for example, lead to certain forms of muscular dystrophy. From a cosmetic point of view, it can be disadvantageous that an insufficient amount of laminin in the tissue causes the skin to appear less taut.

Accordingly, it is desirable to provide cosmetic agents which enable the expression of laminin, for example keratinocytes, which is the predominant cell type in the human epidermis. In this way, a cause of age-related moth formation can be reduced.

Document WO 2008020329 A2 describes the use of compositions comprising differentiable cells, egg cell extracts or differentiable cellular extracts to prevent damage and dysfunction of cells or tissues and to promote cellular function. Furthermore, these promote

Compositions the appearance, vitality and health of cells and tissues. Specifically, it is described on page 89 in Example 11 that an extract of salmon eggs can promote wound healing. A specific effect on the expression of laminin is not described.

The document WO 2009136291 A2 also discloses production methods for extracts from fish eggs. The description of these methods is identical to those of WO

2008020329 A2. In Example 13, the preparation of an extract from salmon and

Trout eggs described. In Example 14 it was shown that the extracts of salmon and trout eggs obtained can increase collagen production. The production of laminin is not discussed. As can be seen from Table 13, the composition of the extracts differs depending on the species of fish

Extraction method. Thus, the contained DNA and protein concentration varies significantly. It can therefore be assumed that, depending on the extraction method, different effects can be achieved when using the extracts.

Furthermore, the same production method for fish spawn extracts is disclosed in document WO 201 1 138687 A2 on page 28, as in WO 2008020329 A2. The extraction from salmon eggs described in Example 5 is also based on first washing the eggs. This is followed by a suspension in an aqueous lysis buffer and a homogenization. No document of the prior art discloses an extraction process in which the fish eggs are suspended in and homogenized in an extraction mixture of an oil phase and an aqueous phase. Thus, none of the above-mentioned documents could lead the person skilled in the art to the subject of the present invention.

Object of the present invention is thus cosmetic or dermatological

To provide preparations or cosmetic agents which promote the formation of laminin. In particular, the formation of laminin-5 should be promoted, which forms a network with collagens and thus affects the extensibility and elasticity of the skin.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that these objects according to the present

Invention could be solved.

The object of the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a fish extract, characterized in that the

Fish extract is obtainable by that

a) the eggs in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and a

aqueous phase are suspended,

b) the suspension mixture a) is homogenized, and

c) the oil phase of the homogenate b) is extracted.

The oil phase obtained in point c) provides the fish extract according to the invention.

The subject of the present invention is also a process for producing a fish extract characterized in that

a) the eggs in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and a

aqueous phase are suspended,

b) the suspension mixture a) is homogenized, and

c) the oil phase of the homogenate b) is extracted.

Again, that the oil phase obtained in point c) the inventive

Represents fish extract.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of

Fish extract prepared according to the method of the invention, and / or the cosmetic use of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention

a) to increase the expression of laminin, and / or

b) to maintain the skin elasticity and / or extensibility of the human skin. All weight percentages stated below (% by weight), unless stated otherwise, relate in each case to the total weight of the cosmetic or cosmetic

dermatological preparation.

The term "free from" in the sense of the present disclosure means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight

Introductions or contamination with these substances should not be included as being "free of" according to the invention.

Unless otherwise stated, all experiments and procedures were carried out under

Normal conditions performed. The term "normal conditions" means 20 C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

If the term skin is used below, it refers exclusively to the human skin.

According to the present invention, the fish extract according to the invention is used to increase the expression of laminin, in particular laminin-5. Thus, application of the fishy extract of the present invention to the skin results in producing more laminin, particularly laminin-5, with the result that, for example, the decrease in skin elasticity in human skin that occurs with increasing age can be reduced. As a result, the cosmetic use of the

Fish extract according to the invention, or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention for the reduced formation of unwanted skin folds.

According to the invention, eggs of different fish species can be used to produce the fish extract according to the invention. Preferred fish eggs are selected from the spawning salmon, trout and sturgeon. Particularly advantageous results are achieved with the use of spoilers. Demensprechend eggs are preferably used by sturgeons. A variety of different species of sturgeon is known, the eggs could be used in principle according to the invention in the manufacturing process of the invention. The Siberian sturgeon, the short-nosed sturgeon, the Yangtze sturgeon, the sea sturgeon, the Russian sturgeon, or Waxdick, the green sturgeon, the Sakhalin sturgeon, are known among others

Adriatic sturgeon, plain-throated, Atlantic sturgeon, Persian sturgeon, Sterlet, Amur sturgeon, Chinese sturgeon, Sternhausen, European sturgeon, White sturgeon, Kaluga house and European house, often called beluga -Stör is called. It should be noted here that a variety of sturgeon species are threatened with extinction, so that should be dispensed with the use of these. When

According to the invention most preferred are the fish eggs of the white sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus) and / or the Siberian sturgeon (Aci penser baerii). The White Sturgeon is considered as non-endangered according to the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources).

In particularly advantageous embodiments of the invention exclusively fish eggs of breeding offenders, in particular of bred Siberian and / or white sturgeon are used. Within this embodiment, it is furthermore extremely preferable if the fish eggs are obtained in a non-lethal method for the fish.

It is inventively advantageous if the fish extract is produced within 24 hours after removal of the fish eggs. In addition, it is advantageous if the fish eggs are preserved after removal and for further processing to the fish extract in addition to the preservation with borax.

Alternatively, it is possible, although not preferred according to the invention, to freeze the fish eggs after removal in a cryoprotectant and to store them at a storage temperature of -50 to -90 C for up to 12 months. Preferably, the cryoprotectant consists of 1, 5M 1, 2-propanediol, 0.2M sucrose and water. Use of the cryoprotectant prevents damage to the egg membrane during freezing and thawing. Advantageously, freeze-drying should take place at a rate of - C per minute up to a

Storage temperature of -80 C done. Thawing the eggs before making the

Fish extract should be kept on ice until the spawn has reached a temperature of 1 C to 5 C. The preparation of the fish extract according to the invention of fish eggs takes place in this case after thawing the fish eggs to 1 ° C to 5 C.

To prepare the fish extract according to the invention, the fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, so that a mixture of the eggs, the oil phase and the aqueous phase is obtained. This mixture is referred to as a suspension mixture.

According to the invention, the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture advantageously comprises at least one oil which is liquid at 20 ° C. In particular, preference has been given to the oil Caprylic / Capric triglyceride, which is known under the INCI name, since these constituents are not to be expected in the spawners.

It is further advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, when the proportion of the oil Caprylic / Capric triglycerides in the oil phase of the extraction mixture at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 90 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 97 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oil phase of the extraction mixture is. Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture contains at least one antioxidant. Tocopherol and / or BHT are preferably used as antioxidants, their total content in the oil phase of the

Extraction mixture 0, 1 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oil phase of the extraction mixture is. By using antioxidants within the oil phase of the extraction mixture, the constituents of the spawning eggs become, during and after the

Homogenization of fish eggs, protected against oxidation.

According to the invention, the aqueous phase contained in the extraction mixture is advantageously a phosphate buffer, preferably containing 50 mM to 200 mM phosphates (for example from sodium hydrogenphosphate) and 0.1 to 0.3% by weight EDTA, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture , Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture according to the invention contains at least one preservative in order to prevent the growth of bacteria before, during and after the homogenization. Preferred preservatives to be used are selected from the group phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol and / or ethylhexylglycerol. Advantageously in accordance with the invention, the total amount of preservative,

in particular the total proportion of the preservatives designated as preferred, in the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the

Total weight of the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture.

After suspending the fish eggs in the oil and water phase of the extraction mixture, a mixture of these three components is obtained, which according to the invention as

Suspension mixture is called. According to the invention, it is advantageous if the proportion by weight of the fish eggs to the aqueous phase of the suspension mixture is 1: 2 to 2: 1, preferably 1: 1, 2 to 1, 2: 1. Furthermore, it is advantageous if the proportion by weight of the eggs to the oil phase of the suspension mixture is 1: 0.2 to 1: 0.4.

According to the invention, the homogenization of the fish eggs in the above

described suspension mixture of the eggs themselves, the oil phase and the aqueous phase.

The term homogenization according to the invention means processes in which cells are destroyed in order to access their contents - organelles, proteins, DNA, RNA or other biomolecules.

Generally, for the homogenization mechanical and non-mechanical

Digestion procedures are applied. According to the invention, the preferred

mechanical digestion process. These include the dounce Method in which the cells are destroyed by shearing forces, ultrasonic irradiation, where the cells are shattered by cavitation forces, or digestions under the application of mechanical pressure, for example, in which a sample is forced under pressure through a narrow valve (Manton-Gaulin homogenizer) , Since it can not be completely ruled out that different homogenates can occur depending on the methods of homogenization, it is particularly preferred according to the invention to use homogenization methods under the application of mechanical pressure, most preferably

Procedures using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer or a French Press are.

Advantageously according to the invention, the extraction of the oil phase from the homogenates of the spawning takes place by centrifugation with subsequent phase separation. Thus, after the homogenization of the fish eggs and subsequent centrifugation, an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a sediment will advantageously be present. In some cases, between the oil phase and the aqueous phase may form another layer of cell components, which are suspended. In the subsequent separation and extraction of the oil phase of the homogenate should be avoided as possible, components of the

to remove suspended layer of cell components.

When centrifuging, it is advantageous if this is carried out at 1500 to 3000 G. The centrifugation time is advantageously 30 minutes to 2 hours. Subsequently, it should be advantageously maintained until the phases have clearly separated.

If the conditions identified above as being advantageous, a particularly clean separation of the components is possible.

The resulting oil phase of the homogenate already provides the inventive

Fish extract. This contains a variety of different ingredients and can thus be specifically defined by the starting substances and the extraction method. One

Part of the resulting fish extract according to the invention are fatty acids. It has been found that it is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, if a particular

Distribution of different fatty acids is present. Advantageously, the weight fraction of monounsaturated fatty acids in the fish extract according to the invention is from 30 to 50% by weight, in particular from 35 to 45% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the fish extract. According to the invention, the fatty acids include all unbranched, saturated and unsaturated carboxylic acids containing 6 to 28 carbon atoms. Furthermore, it is advantageous if the fish extract according to the invention is characterized in that the weight fraction of the polyunsaturated fatty acids in the fish extract 30 to 40

Wt .-%, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the fish extract, is. Moreover, it is furthermore advantageous if the weight proportion of omega-3 Fatty acids in the fish extract 15 to 25 wt .-%, based on the total weight of alier contained in the fish extract fatty acids. In addition, advantageous fish extracts according to the invention are characterized in that the weight proportion of omega-6 fatty acids in the fish extract is 10 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of all im

Fish extract contains fatty acids.

Furthermore, it has been found that the stability, the shelf life and / or the purity of the fish extract according to the invention can be increased when the extracted oil phase of the homogenate is dried. Advantageously, the drying can be carried out with the salts suitable for it, in particular advantageously with disodium sulfate (Na ₂ SO ₄ ).

Furthermore, it has also been found that the stability, the shelf life and / or the purity of the fish extract according to the invention can be increased by filtering the extracted oil phase. The filtration is advantageously carried out so that the entire drying agent, for example disodium sulfate, is removed from the oil phase.

In addition, advantageous fish extracts according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one preservative selected from the group phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerol.

Advantageously, the total amount of preservatives, in particular the

Total content of preservatives selected from the group phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerol, in the fish extract 0.1 to 3.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the fish extract. If the above characteristics are observed, it has been shown that the fish extract has a bacterial shelf life of at least 2 years. Demensprechend is no immediate training in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation longer necessary.

In addition, the fish extract according to the invention is advantageously characterized in that the Gewichtsanteii of triglycerides, in particular the proportion of decanoyl and Octanoylglyceriden (Caprylic / Capric triglycerides), 50 to 60 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the fish extract is.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the fish extract obtained by the process according to the invention, in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation, in the cosmetic or cosmetic according to the invention

dermatological preparation is included. Particularly advantageous embodiments of the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprises a fish extract of spoilage obtained by the process according to the invention in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 5 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be used in the usual cosmetic and / or dermatological pharmaceutical preparation forms, preferably as gel, O / W emulsion, W / O emulsion, W / O / W emulsion, O / W / O emulsion, Microemulsion, cosmetic stick present.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may be present, preferably as emulsion, ointment, foundation, toner, aqueous solution, cream, gel, powder, mask, foam preparation and aerosol preparation.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for daily care on the

Facial skin are usually formulated as emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only limitedly miscible, one of the two liquids being dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. With the naked eye, an emulsion appears as homogeneous. If both liquids are water and oil, and the oil is present as finely distributed droplets in the water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion). On the other hand, if the water is present as finely distributed droplets in the oil, then it is a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion).

According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in which the fish extract according to the invention is present is in the form of an O / W emulsion.

Emulsifiers serve to stabilize emulsions. Stabilization means in this

Connection that the phase separation of the emulsion is prevented or delayed. Demensprechend can be determined by the use of appropriately selected

Emulsifier systems produce stable emulsions.

Emulsifiers are molecules with a polar, hydrophilic structural element and a nonpolar, lipophilic structural element. In general, such molecules can be defined by the HLB value (dimensionless number between 0 and 20) which indicates whether a preferred water or oil solubility is present. Water in oil Emulsifiers (W / O emulsifiers) usually have an HLB value in the range of 3 to 8.

Accordingly, W / O emulsifiers promote the stabilization of an aqueous phase, which is suspended in an oil phase. Oil-in-water emulsifiers (O / W emulsifiers) have an HLB value greater than 8 to 18. These promote the stabilization of an oil phase which is suspended in an aqueous phase.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing the fish extract according to the invention is present as oil-in-water emulsion, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains at least one OA / V emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of greater than 8 to 18 contains. Advantageously to be selected O / W emulsifiers are, for example, the following list:

HLB value Chemical name

8.2 triglycerol monooleate

8.3 Diethylene glycol monolaurate

8.4 Polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether

Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) dioleate

8.5 sodium caproyl lactylate

Polyethylene glycol (200) monostearate

sorbitan

8.6 sorbitan monolaurate

Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate

8.8 Polyoxyethylene (4) myristyl ether

Polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate

8.9 Nonylphenol, polyoxyethylated with 4 moles of EO

9.0 Oleth-5

9.2-9.7 polyoxyethylene (4) lauryl alcohol

9.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) tridecyl alcohol

9.6 polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate

9.8 Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate

10-1 1 polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate

10.0 didodecyldimethylammonium chloride

10.0 Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate

Polyethylene glycol (400) dilaurate

Polyethylene glycol (600) dioleate

Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate

10-12 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

10.2 polyoxyethylene (40) sorbitol hexaoleate

10.4-10.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (600) distearate

10.5 Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate

10.6 sucrose monostearate

10.7 sucrose monooleate

1 1 - 1 1, 4 Polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate

1 1, 0 Polyethylene glycol (350) monostearate

Polyethylene glycol (400) monotallate Polyoxyethylene (7) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene glycol (8) monooleate

Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate

Polyoxyethylene (6) tridecyl alcohol

.1 Polyethylene glycol (400) monostearate

.2 polyoxyethylene (9) monostearate

sucrose monooleate

sucrose monostearate

, 4 polyoxyethylene (50) sorbitol hexaoleate

Saccharosemonotallat

Saccharosestearatpalmitat

.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monoricinoleate

.7 sucrose monomyristate

of sucrose

.0 PEG-10 Soy Sterol

triethanolamine

.2-12.3 nonylphenol ethoxylated with 8 moles of EO

, 2 sucrose monomyristate

.4 sucrose monolaurate

Polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl ether polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl ether.5 polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl cetyl ether

.7 Polyoxyethylene (8) tridecyl alcohol

.8 polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monolaurate

Saccharosemonococoat

.9 Polyoxyethylene (10) cetyl ether

Glycerol monostearate, ethoxylated (20 mol EO)

, 0 Eumuigin O 10 (polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl ether)

Eumuigin 286 (nonoxynol-10)

Eumuigin B 1 (Ceteareth-12)

.0 C12 fatty amines, ethoxylated (5 moles EO)

.1 nonylphenol, ethoxylated (9.5 mol EO)

.2 Polyethylene glycol (600) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (16) tall oil

.3 polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate

, 5 nonylphenol, ethoxylated (10.5 mol EO)

Polyethylene glycol (600) monooleate

, 7 Polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl alcohol

Polyethylene glycol (660) monotallate

Polyethylene glycol (1500) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (1500) dioleate

, 9 Polyethylene glycol (400) monococoate

Polyoxyethylene (9) monolaurate

-16 icinus oil, ethoxylated with 40 EO and hydrogenated

, 0 polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl ether tridecyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (12)

Polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl alcohol

Polyoxyethylene (15) stearylcetylether

Mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols with 12 moles EO

Polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl alcohol

Polyoxyethylene glycol (600) monolaurate

Sorbitan monostearate, ethoxylated with 20 EO

Sorbitan monooleate, ethoxylated with 20 EO

PEG-20 glyceryl stearate

PEG-40 Castor Oil

decyl glucoside

dodecyl

dodecyltrimethylammonium

Nonylphenol, ethoxylated with 15 moles of EO

Polyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (600) monooleate

icinus oil, ethoxylated with 60 EO and hydrogenated

C12 fatty amines, polyoxyethylated with 12 moles of EO

Polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether

stearylcetylether polyoxyethylene (20)

stearyl polyoxyethylene (20)

Polyoxyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate

Polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether

Dinatriumtriethanolamindistearylheptaglycolethersulfosuccinat

Nonylphenol ethoxylated with 20 moles of EO

Polyoxyethylene (25) propylene glycol stearate

Polyoxyethylene (30) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (40) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate

sorbitol polyoxyethylene (20)

C18 fatty amines, polyoxyethylated with 5 moles EO

Polyoxyethylene (23) lauryl alcohol

Ceteareth-30, z. B. Eumulgin B 3

Octylglucoside (Triton CG 1 10)

Polyoxyethylene (30) glyceryl monolaurate

Nonylphenol, ethoxylated with 30 moles of EO

Polyoxyethylene (40) stearyl alcohol

PEG-100 stearates

Steareth-100

PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate

In the above list, the abbreviation EO stands for ethylene oxide. According to the invention, such an O / W emulsion may advantageously also contain W / O emulsifiers, the ratio of the O / W emulsifiers to the W / O emulsifiers, taking into account the respective HLB values, to be selected such that an O / W emulsion sets. A known mixture of O / W emulsifiers and W / O emulsifiers is the commercial product Arlacel 170 from Croda containing glyceryl stearates and PEG-100 stearates, wherein the ratio of the two substances is chosen so that a total HLB of about 1 1 results.

In addition to the fish extract according to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention advantageously comprises oils selected from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously chosen from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, and the like.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention may advantageously comprise further oils which are selected from the group of branched and un branched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention may advantageously contain further fat and / or wax components from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.

For example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax,

Japan wax, esparto wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax,

Sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin, crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (ground wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those under the trade names

Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), and Syncrowax AW 1 C (C18-36 fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH, and montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated

Jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C30-50 alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, Polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats such. B. hydrogenated

Vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and

Glycol esters such as C20-40 alkyl stearate, C20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate.

It may also be advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, if the

cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing cyclic, branched and / or linear silicones. The group of cyclic, branched and / or linear silicones are also referred to in the present disclosure as "silicone oils"

Silicone oils are described by the INCI name Dimethicone and have a structure according to the formula (I)

(SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O-f SiR ² , -O-r (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (I), while branched silicone oils of the formula (II)

R ²

I

₍ SiR ¹ ₃ ) - O - SiR ^r _: - O - ^ Si - 0 - f SiRV - O (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (| |)

I

0 -fc SiR \ - O -) r (SiR ¹ ₃ ) can be described, wherein R ¹ and R ² independently of one another

May be hydrogen, a methyl group or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and wherein x, y, and z are independently integer numbers in the range of 0 to 60,000. Cyclic silicones are known by the INCI name Cyclomethicone.

It is advantageous if the proportion by weight of the silicone oils in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is advantageous thereby

in that the total proportion of the oil phase in the O / W emulsion is from 2 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight and particularly preferably from 8% by weight to 22% by weight to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation, wherein the fish extract according to the invention is contained in the oil phase. The silicone oils also belong to the oil phase of the cosmetic or dermatological

Preparation. In addition, it is advantageous if the total amount of water in the

50 to 90% by weight, preferably 60 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains one or more rheology modifiers. Preferred rheology modifiers to be selected are selected from the group of the following INCI substances:

Carbomer (Carbopols of the types 980, 981, 2984, 5984 from the company Lubrizol);

Acrylates copolymer (eg Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 polymer from the company Lubrizol), acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (eg Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from the company Lubrizol), hydroxyethyl Acrylates / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer (eg

Aristoflex AVC from Clariant), polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer (e.g., Carbopol® Aqua CC Polymer from Lubrizol); Sodium polyacrylates (e.g., Cosmedia SP from BASF); Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and acrylic acid

Celluloses and cellulose derivatives, e.g. hydroxypropyl methylcellulose,

Methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hyaluronic acid and xanthan gum

Starches, for example tapioca starch.

The rheology modifiers are particularly preferably selected from the group of the substances known by the INCI name carbomer, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylates, hydroxyethyl acrylates / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.

Advantageously, the total proportion of these rheology modifiers, in particular the

Total content of the rheology modifiers characterized above as preferred, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0, 1 to 2.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation. In addition, it is particularly advantageous if in addition to the substances mentioned above as particularly preferred tapioca starch in a proportion of up to 3.5 wt .-%, based on the

Total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is included.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the weight ratio of all contained

rheology modifier according to the invention to the oil phase contained 1: 1 to 1: 30, preferably 1: 2 to 1: 28, particularly preferably 1: 20 to 1: 27. such

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention have a surprisingly beneficial creaminess and are not perceived as crumbly or too oily and too liquid by the consumer.

It is inventively advantageous if the inventive cosmetic or dermatological preparation cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture of

Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol contains.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, it is advantageous according to the invention if the total amount of these substances is from 0.5 to 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation ,

Moreover, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or cosmetic according to the invention

dermatological preparation additionally contains one or more substances selected from the group ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, propanediol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether and / or diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether. It is preferred if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains glycerol and / or propanediol.

It is likewise advantageous to use the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention as sunscreen agents. Accordingly, the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the present invention may contain at least one

Room temperature liquid UV filter substance included.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthylsalicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2 Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate , INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bisethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche. Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other water-insoluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (T1O2), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg FeO3), zirconium (ZrO), silicon (S1O2) , Manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al2O3), cerium (eg Ce20.3), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides as well as the barium sulphate (BaS0 ₄ ).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Advantageously, dispersants and / or solubilizers can be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments may advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), in which case a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained, for example or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which has been sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol ^® 1789 and sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020. Advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are also:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt having the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Symrise;

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81 -7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise;

1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-) oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene

1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) is called. Benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS. No .: 90457-82-2) and is, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX of available from Chimex;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme- thyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Benzoxazole derivatives, such as. B. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3.5-triazine with the CAS no 288254-16-0, which is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A.

Hydroxybenzophenones, e.g. B. 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoesäure- hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus in the company. BASF.

Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis- Ethylhexyloxylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo 2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150; 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-

6).

Benzotriazoles, such as. B. 2,2'-Meihylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-dichloroethyl) -phenyl) (INCI: Methylene bis-benztriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol ), which z. B. under the trade name Tinosorb® M at CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH is available.

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2-ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and

• polymer-bound UV filters

• Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the

Description Uvinul® N 539 T is available.

Particularly advantageous cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain further UV-A and / or broadband filters in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention. in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt each individually or in any desired combinations together.

The list of said UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.

The total amount of the filter substances is selected from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 8.0 wt .-% - each based on the total weight of the preparations - to cosmetic or dermatological preparations that protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention comprises at least one active ingredient for cosmetic treatment and / or

cosmetic prophylaxis of unwanted skin pigmentation. Accordingly, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation advantageously contains at least one

Alkylamidthiazol.

Advantageous alkylamidothiazoles in the context of the present invention are substances of the general formula

in which

R ³ , R ⁴ , X 'and Y' may be different, partly the same or identical and may independently of one another mean:

R ³ = -Ci-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkenyl (linear and branched), -CI-CB-cycloalkyl, -d-Ce-cycloalkyl-alkylhydroxy, -C1-C24 alkylhydroxy (linear and branched), -C1-C24 alkylamine (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkylaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkylaryl-alkyl-hydroxy (linear and branched), -Ci-C24- Alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), -d-C24-alkyl-0-d-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -C1-C24 Alky-Morpholino, -C1-C24 Alky-piperidino, -C1-C24 Alky-piperazino , C1-C24 Alky-piperazino-N-alkyl,

R ⁴ = H, -Ci-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkenyl (linear and branched), -Ci-Cs-cycloalkyl, -CrC 2 ₄ -hydroxyalkyl (linear and branched), -Ci C24-Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-Alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), means

X '= -H, -CC-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkenyl (linear and branched), -Ci-Ca- cycloalkyl, -Ci-C24-aryl (optionally mono- or polysubstituted with -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, - OMe, -NH2, -CN), -Ci-C24-heteroaryl (optionally mono- or polysubstituted by -OH, -F, --Cl, - Br, -I, -OMe, -NH2, -CN), -Ci-C24-alkylaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), -aryl (optionally monosubstituted or polysubstituted with - OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, - OMe, -NH2, -CN), -phenyl, -2,4-dihydroxyphenyl, -2,3-dihydroxyphenyl, -2,4-dimethoxyphenyl, -2,3-dimethoxyphenyl,

Y '- H, -Ci-Ci> .i-alkyl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkenyl (linear and branched), -Ci-Ce- cycloalkyl, -Ci-C24-aryl, -Ci-C24 -Heteroaryl, -Ci-C24-alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C1-C24-Al ky I heteroaryl (linear and branched), -aryl, -phenyl, -2,4-dihydroxyphenyl, -2,3 dihydroxyphenyl, -2,4-dimethoxyphenyl, -2,3-dimethoxyphenyl, -COO-alkyl, -COO-alkenyl, -COO-cycloalkyl, -COO-aryl, -COO-heteroaryl, and X ', Y' optionally also = may mean condensed aromatic, wherein X 'and Y' with each other aromatic or aliphatic homo- or heterocyclic ring systems can form with up to n ring-forming atoms, and wherein the number n can assume values of 5 to 8, and the respective ring systems again with up to n-1 alkyl groups, hydroxyl groups, carboxyl groups, amino groups, nitrile functions, sulfur-containing substituents, ester groups and / or ether groups may be substituted.

The said thiazoles can be present both as free base and as salt: e.g. as fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, carbonate, ascorbate, acetate or phosphate. In particular, as halogen salts, e.g. Chloride and bromide.

Advantageously, X 'is selected from the group of substituted phenyls, where the substituents Z' can be selected from the group -H, -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH2, -CN, Acetyl and the same or different.

X 'is particularly advantageously selected from the group of the hydroxyl groups substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, wherein the substituent Z' can be selected from the group -H, -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH2, -CN, acetyl and the following generic structure is preferred in which Y ', R ³ and R ⁴ may have the properties defined above.

Y '= H

R ³ = -Ci-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), (linear and branched), -Ci-Cs-cycloalkyl, -Ci-Ce-cycloalkyl-alkylhydroxy, -C1-C24 alkylhydroxy (linear and branched), -Cr C24 alkylamine (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkylaryl ( linear and branched), -C-C24-alkyl aryl-alkyl-hydroxy (linear and branched), -C-C24-alkyl heteroaryl (linear and branched), -Cr C24-alkyl-0-CRC2 ₄ alkyl (linear and Branched), -C1-C24 Alky-Morpholino, -C1-C24 Alky-piperidino, -C1-C24 Alky-piperazino, -C1-C24 Alky-piperazino-N-alkyl,

R ⁴ = H, -Ci-C24-alkyl (linear and branched).

Z '= -H, -OH, -F, -Cl. -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH ₂ , -CN, acetyl.

Particularly preferred are those compounds in which

Y '= H

R ³ = -C-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -C-C24-alkenyl (linear and branched), -C-Cs-cycloalkyl, d-Ce-cycloalkyl-alkylhydroxy, -C1-C24 alkyl hydroxy (linear and branched), -Cr C24 alkylamine (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkylaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkylaryl-alkyl-hydroxy (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), -Cr C24-alkyl-0-Ci-C24-Alkyl (linear and branched), -C1-C24 Alky-Morpholino, -C1-C24 Alky-Piperidino, -C1-C24 Alky-Piperazino, - C1-C24 Alky-piperazino-N-alkyl,

R ⁴ - H.

The connections

_J V-4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) pivalamides

_J V- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide

, V- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) butyramides

A '- (4- (2.4-dihydroxyplienyl) thiazol-2-yl) heptananiide

iV- (4 _~ (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -6-hydroxyhexanamide

A '- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -3-hydroxypropanamide

3-amino- (4- (2,4-dihydoxy-oxyplienyl) -thiazol-2-yl) -piOpanamide

A '- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) acetamide

IV- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -4- (hydroxymethyl) cyclohexanecarboxamide

iV- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) cyclohexane-carboxamides and

iV- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazoi-2-yl) -2- (4- (hydroxymethyl) phenyl) acetamides are the preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention, the proportion of the amounts described above is advantageous

Alkylamidothiazoles in the cosmetic or dermatological according to the invention

Preparations 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.0001 to 3 wt .-%, especially 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of

dermatological or cosmetic preparations.

Accordingly, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations may further comprise further cosmetic adjuncts conventionally used in such preparations, for example other bodying agents, film formers, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, further pigments, the coloring effect have, surface-active substances, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances,

anti-inflammatory substances, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, insect repellents, bactericides, virucides, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic formulation such as other alcohols, polyols, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or electrolytes.

Comparative experiments and examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limit. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

(a) Preparation of a fish extract according to the invention:

To produce a fish extract according to the invention, fish eggs of white sturgeon (only fish eggs from breeding stocks were used) were removed and borax was added. Within 24 hours after removal of the fish extract was made.

In addition, an oil phase was provided consisting of 99.98 wt .-%

Caprylic / Capric triglycerides, 0.01% by weight tocopherol and 0.01% by weight BHT.

The additionally provided aqueous phase consisted of:

100 mM phosphates (from sodium hydrogen phosphate);

1% by weight of phenoxyethanol;

1% by weight of the commercial product Sensivia Pa 20 from Schülke & Mayr, containing phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexyl glycerol;

0.2% by weight of EDTA; and

Water.

The provided oil phase and the provided aqueous phase were combined and then the fish eggs were suspended in this mixture. The weight ratio of the oil phase to the fish eggs was 0.3: 1 and the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the fish eggs was 1: 1.

The resulting mixture of oil phase, aqueous phase and fish eggs was then homogenized using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer.

The homogenate obtained was then centrifuged at 2000 G for one hour. This was followed by manual phase separation, the oil phase representing the fish extract according to the invention.

To improve the shelf life of the resulting fish extract, it was dried with sodium sulfate and then filtered to improve the purity to remove the sodium sulfate and other insoluble matter.

(b) analytics The analysis of the oil phase of the homogenate from (a), ie the fish extract according to the invention, shows that the proportion of saturated fatty acids in the fish extract is 23.1% by weight, based on the total weight of all the fatty acids present.

In addition, it was found that the proportion of monounsaturated

Fatty acids in the fish extract 41, 7 wt .-%, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained is.

In addition, it was found that the proportion of polyunsaturated

Fatty acids in the fish extract 35.2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained, is.

In addition, it was found that the proportion of omega-3 fatty acids in the

Fish extract 20.3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained, is.

In addition, it was found that the proportion of omega-6 fatty acids in the

Fish extract 14.8 wt .-%, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained is.

The proportion of phenoxyethanol is in the range of 0, 1 to 1, 5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the fish extract.

(c) Efficacy study on the expression of laminin

To the advantageous efficacy of the fish extract according to the invention

to determine how far the extract increases the expression of the gene for laminin-5 in keratinocytes (HaCaT). For this, the cells were incubated for 6 h with the extract to be tested. Subsequently, all of the RNA was extracted with a GenElute Mammalian Total RNA Purification Kit (SIGMA) and processed as directed. The quantitative determination of the gene for laminin-5 was carried out according to RT-PCR (Real Time Quantitative PCR) with the respective specific primer: Ι_ΑΜ5-γ F: 5'ATCAACAGGTGAGCTATGG3 'and LAM5-y R: 5 AATCTCCTGTGTCTGGAT3'.

For a comparative experiment, the above examination was carried out once without the fish extract according to the invention and once with 0.1% by weight of fish extract (a). In addition, a watery fish extract of fish eggs became white Sturgeon, also obtained via a mechanical method under pressure. This was used in a proportion of 0.001 wt .-%.

The results obtained are shown in Figure 1. As it turns out, the use of the fish extract according to the invention (a) leads to an increase in the expression of the gene for laminin-5. There was an increase of 18% (statistically significant, p <0.0065) over the control for the γ subunit of laminin-5.

In contrast, the use of the aqueous fish extract showed an inhibition of the expression of laminin-5 (γ subunit) over the control.

Example recipes:

Cyclomethicone 4, 1 1.0 4.0 3.5 5.0

Dimethicone 2.3 1, 0 1, 2

Dicaprylyl ether 1, 0 4.0 2.0

Dicarprylyl carbonates 2.8

N- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide 0.2 0.1 0.05 0.3 0.4

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 4.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 2.5

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate 1.0 1, 0 1, 5 0.5 2.0

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid 2.0 3.0 1.0 1.5 1, 5

Ethyl hexyl triazone 2.0

Octocrylene 2.5

Ethylhexyl salicylate 1, 0

Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.05

Fish extract from (a) 0.2 0, 1 0.08 0.3 0.05

Biotin 0.04 etinyl palmitate 0.1

Thioctic Acid 0, 1

Tocopheryl Acetate 1, 0

Sodium Citrate 0.1

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0, 1 0.1

Trisodium EDTA 0.1

Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

Butyl paraben 0.6 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.3

Alcohol Denat. 2.0

Xanthan gum 0.1

Carbomer 0.05 0.1 0, 1

Polyacrylamide 0.2

Glycerol 10 6.0 6.5 7.5 8.0

Butylene Glycol 2.0 1, 0

Fillers / Additives (Distarch phosphate, Si0 ₂ , BHT, Tal0, 1 1, 0 0.2 0.5 0.05 kum, aluminum stearate)

Perfumes q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Aqua Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad

100 100 100 100 100 Example number 6 7 8 9 10

PEG-50 Stearate 2.5 1.0

PEG-40 Stearate 1, 0 1, 0 0.5

PEG-8 Stearate 1.0

PEG-8 Distearate 1, 0

Glyceryl Stearate 3.0

Sorbitan Stearate 1.0

Steareth-21 2.0 1, 0

Steareth-2 1.0

Cetearyl Glucoside 2.0

Myristyl Myristate 1, 0

Behenyl Alcohol 1, 0 2.0

Stearyl Alcohol 5.0

Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 2.0 1.0

Cetyl Alcohol 1.0

Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 1.0 1

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.5

C12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.0 5.0 2.5

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 1.5 2.0

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 1.0 1, 5 3.5

Ethyl hexyl Cocoate 2.0

Octyldodecanol 1, 0 1, 5

Paraffin Liquidum 1, 0

Cera Microcristallina 1, 8

Cyclomethicone 4.0 3.5 2.0 5.0 2.0

Dimethicone 2.0 1.5

Dicaprylyl Ether 2.0

Dicarprylyl Carbonates 2.0 3.0 3.5

Polydecenes 4

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 2.0 3.0 4.5 5.0 4.2

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid 0.5 2.0 2.0 3.3 1.0

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonates 1, 0 1.0 1.5 2.3 0.5

Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.03

Fish extract from (a) 0.03 0.4 0.06 0.3 0.25

Biotin 0.02 Retiny! Palmitate 0.2

Tocopheryl Acetate 1, 0.5

Ascorbic acid 0.05

Trisodium EDTA 0.2 0, 1

P enoxyethanol 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.3

Butylparaben 0.1 0.4 0.6

Ethylhexylglycerol 0.2 0.2 0, 1 0.4

Alcohol denate. 8.0 3.0

Xanthan Gum 0.1

Carbomer 0.2 0.1 0, 1

Polyacrylamide 0.2

Glycerin 10 5.0 6.0 4.0 7.0

Butylene glycol 2.0

Additives (distear phosphate, S \ 0, talc, BHT 0.03 0.05 3.0 aluminum stearate)

Perfumes q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Aqua Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad

100 100 100 100 100

Squalane 3.0 1.9

Carbomer 0.2 0.4 0.15

Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acrylodimethyl 1.7 0.1 1.0 2.0 0.1

Tau rate copolymer

Polymethyl methacrylate 0.5 0.6 0.1

Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.6 0.3 0.25

Pullulan 0.5 0.4

Carrageenan 0.2 0.3 0.7 0.3

Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.1 0.25

Methylpropanediol 1,3

Glycerol 3.1 1.7 4.0 2.8 3.5

Sorbitol 0.1

Propanediol 2.0 1.9

Propylene glycol 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.3

Pentylene glycol 0.1 0.5

Butylene Glycol 0.2 0.3 0.2

Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 0.2 0.45 0.35

Ubiquinone 0.1 0.2 0.15

Retinyl palmitate 0.15 0.15

Biotin 0.05

Fish extract from (a) 0.2 0.1 0.3 0.09 0.4

Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

Triethanolamine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.3 0.5 0.3 0.45

Ethylhexylglycerol 0.2 0.1 0.05

Titanium Dioxide 0.3 0.1 0.2

Tapioca Starch 0.05

Talcum 0.05

Perfumes q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Aqua Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad

100 100 100 100 100

Claims

claims

1 . Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a fish extract, characterized in that the fish extract is obtainable in that

a) the fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase,

b) the extraction mixture a) is homogenized, and

c) the oil phase of the homogenate b) is extracted.

2. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 1 characterized

in that the eggs are selected from salmon, trout and sturgeon fish eggs, fish eggs being preferred by sturgeons.

3. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 2 characterized

characterized in that the eggs of the white sturgeon and / or the Siberian sturgeon are chosen.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the fish extract is produced within 24 hours after the fish eggs are removed.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture contains caprylic / capric triglycerides, wherein the proportion of caprylic / capric triglycerides in the oil phase of the extraction mixture preferably at least 90 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 97 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the oil phase of the extraction mixture is.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture contains at least one antioxidant.

7. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the aqueous phase contained in the extraction mixture is a phosphate buffer, preferably containing 50 mM to 200 mM

Phosphates and 0, 1 wt .-% to 0.3 wt .-% EDTA, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture.

8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture contains at least one preservative, preferably selected from the group

Phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol and / or ethylhexylglycerol.

9. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the weight fraction of fish eggs to the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture is 1: 2 to 2: 1, preferably 1: 1, 2 to 1, 2: 1.

10. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the weight fraction of fish eggs to the oil phase of the extraction mixture is 1: 0.2 to 1: 0.4.

1 1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that a mechanical digestion ssverfahren is applied for the homogenization of fish eggs.

12. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 12 characterized

characterized in that a method under the exercise of mechanical pressure is used for the homogenization of fish eggs.

13. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the extraction of the oil phase from the

Homogenizers of fish eggs by centrifugation followed by phase separation takes place.

14. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the weight fraction of monounsaturated fatty acids in the fish extract is from 30 to 50% by weight, in particular from 35 to 45% by weight, based on the total weight of all the fatty acids present.

15. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the weight fraction of the polyunsaturated fatty acids in the fish extract is from 30 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of all the fatty acids present.

16. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight proportion of omega-3 fatty acids in the fish extract 15 to 25 wt .-%, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the fish extract.

17. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the weight proportion of omega-6 fatty acids in the fish extract is 10 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the fish extract.

18. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the fish extract at least one

Preservative selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, phenetyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerol.

19. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the weight proportion of triglycerides, in particular the proportion of decanoyl and Octanoylglyceriden in the fish extract, 50 to 60 wt .-% based on the total weight of the fish extract, is.

20. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that the fish extract in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation, in the cosmetic or

dermatological preparation is included.

21. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding

Claims characterized in that at least one Alkylamidthiazol is included.

22. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of claims 1 to 21

a) to increase the expression of laminin, and / or

b) to maintain the skin elasticity and / or extensibility of the human skin.

23. A method for producing a fish extract, characterized in that a) the fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase,

b) the suspension mixture a) is homogenized, and

c) the oil phase of the homogenate b) is extracted.