CH713171B1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing an aqueous fish extract. - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing an aqueous fish extract, characterized in that the aqueous fish extract is obtainable by suspending the fish eggs in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, homogenizing the suspension mixture, and the aqueous phase of the homogenate is extracted.

Description

Description: The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing an aqueous fish extract for inhibiting the activity of elastin-degrading elastase, for increasing elastin expression and / or for increasing the expression of hyaluronan synthases. In addition, the invention relates to a method for providing an aqueous fish extract, in which fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, the resulting suspension is homogenized and the aqueous phase of the homogenate is extracted.

To look beautiful and attractive is a need of many people. Often, a pure and wrinkle-free skin is considered the ideal of beauty. To comply with this, the most diverse cosmetic products are used for the daily care of the skin.

One reason for the wrinkling of the skin with increasing age is a loss of skin elasticity. This elasticity is determined inter alia by the quality and number of elastin fibrils / fibers present in human skin.

Elastin belongs to the structural proteins which are responsible for the shaping and the hold as well as the extensibility of the skin. The largest proportion of elastin is present in the dermis (dermis).

The formation of the protein elastin via the covalent crosslinking of several tropoelastin proteins. The latter are obtained via gene expression. Humans have only one tropoelastin gene (ELN) for tropoelastin compared to other tissue proteins, such as collagen. The expression of this one ELN gene occurs mainly before birth and in the first years of life when the cells of the elastic tissue produce the elastin necessary for the development of the body. Even at a young age, the ELN expression decreases significantly, with the result that the elastin production is significantly reduced. This leads to the fact that even in middle age very small amounts of elastin are produced and that among other things the elasticity of the skin is based on the hitherto built up elastin fibrils / fibers. This means that as more genes are expressed for the formation of elastin, elastin production is also increased. It should be noted that elastin has been shown to have a half-life of about 74 years and thus to be the most long-lived protein in the human body (Shapiro, SD, Endicott, SK, Province, MA, Pierce, JA, and Campbell, EJ J Clin. Invest., 87, 1828-1834 [1991]).

Reduced elastin production with increasing age may prevent skin lesions caused by burns or UV radiation from effectively repairing the dermal tissue, resulting in a loss of skin elasticity. The consequence is the known and undesirable wrinkling.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic or dermatological-cal preparation and / or cosmetic agents, which increase the formation of elastin and so the loss of Hautelastizitàt prevented or this loss can be reduced.

Another cause of the loss of skin elasticity is due to the activity of the elastin-degrading enzyme elastase. This enzyme not only contributes to age-related wrinkling. Under physiological conditions, the activity of elastase is controlled by inhibitors (serpins). However, it is problematic that the balance between the elastase activity and the inhibitors can be influenced by environmental influences, such as reactive oxygen radicals or UV radiation, which leads to increased elastase activity.

One way to reduce the loss of skin elasticity, particularly with increasing age, is to inhibit elastase activity.

The scientific publication "Interactions of plant natural products and elastase", I. Merfort, BlO Spectrum, Vol. 18, 6, 670-672 (2012) describes the use of plant extracts and natural products for the inhibition of elastase.

The document WO 2005 039 524 A1 describes a cosmetic preparation containing a plant extract from Mallotus japonicus, a plant species which is prevalent in China, Japan and Korea, for the inhibition of elastase.

[0011] WO 2017 014 494 A1 discloses the use of a spiderweb protein or a spiderweb protein hydrosylate to inhibit elastase.

Moreover, document WO 2008 020 329 A2 describes the use of compositions comprising differentiable cells, egg cell extracts or differentiable cellular extracts in order to prevent damage and malfunction of cells or tissues and to promote cellular function. Furthermore, these compositions promote the appearance, vitality and health of cells and tissues.

Specifically, it is described on page 89 in Example 11 that an extract of salmon eggs can promote wound healing. A specific effect on the inhibition of elastase is not described.

The document WO 2009 136 291 A2 discloses production methods for extracts from fish eggs. The description of these methods is identical to those from WO 2008 020 329 A2. Example 13 describes the preparation of an extract from salmon and trout eggs. In Example 14 it was shown that the extracts of salmon and trout eggs obtained can increase collagen production. As can be seen from Table 13, the composition of the extracts differs from the same species depending on the extraction method. Thus, the contained DNA and protein concentration varies significantly. It can therefore be assumed that, depending on the extraction method, different effects can be achieved when using the extracts.

Furthermore, the same production method for fish spawn extracts is disclosed in document WO 2011 138 687 A2 on page 28 as in WO 2008 020 329 A2. The extraction from salmon eggs described in Example 5 is also based on the eggs being washed first. This is followed by suspension in an aqueous lysis buffer and homogenization.

In no document of the prior art, an extraction method is disclosed in which the fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture of an oil phase and an aqueous phase and homogenized in this. Thus, none of the above-mentioned documents could lead the person skilled in the art to the subject of the present invention.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic or dermatological composition which inhibits elastase activity and thus reduces the reduced extensibility and elasticity of human skin due to degradation of elastin. Another object was to provide a cosmetic active ingredient which inhibits elastase activity and thus reduces the reduced extensibility and elasticity of human skin due to degradation of elastin.

Another component of the epidermis is hyaluronic acid, which is a glycosaminoglycan. Hyaluronic acid is able to bind large amounts of water, which helps to protect the skin from dehydration. However, it is probable that the percentage of hyaluronic acid decreases with increasing age, so that the elasticity of the skin diminishes and becomes increasingly drier. One possible consequence is wrinkling. In order to prevent this, cosmetic care products containing hyaluronic acid are often used to temporarily increase the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin.

The formation of hyaluronic acid is based, inter alia, on hyaluronan synthases, which are membrane-bound enzymes which use UDP-α-N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and UDP-α-D-glucuronate as substrates for the production of the hyaluronic acid on the cell surface Extrude membrane into the extracellular space. An example of these hyaluronan synthases is the hyaluronan synthase-3 enzyme, which is expressed from the human HAS-3 gene. Increased expression of the HAS-3 gene automatically leads to increased formation of hyaluronan synthase 3.

One way to increase the formation of hyaluronic acid in human skin is thus to increase the expression of hyaluronan synthase, which leads to an increased formation of hyaluronic acid. A further object of the present invention was thus to provide a cosmetic or dermatological preparation and / or a cosmetic active substance which increases the expression of hyaluronan synthases, in particular hyaluronan synthase 3.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that these objects according to the invention can be solved.

The object of the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing an aqueous fish extract, characterized in that the fish extract is obtainable by a) suspending the fish eggs in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, b ) the suspension mixture a) is homogenized, and c) the aqueous phase of the homogenate b) is extracted.

The aqueous phase obtained in point c) provides the aqueous fish extract according to the invention.

The present invention also provides a process for producing an aqueous fish extract characterized in that a) the fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, b) the suspension mixture a) is homogenized, and c) the aqueous phase of the homogenate b) is extracted.

Again, the aqueous phase obtained in point c) represents the aqueous fish extract according to the invention.

The present invention also provides the cosmetic use of aqueous fish extract prepared according to the process of the invention and / or the cosmetic use of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention a) for inhibiting elastase activity, b) for increasing the expression of elastin, c) to increase the expression of Hyaluronansynthasen, in particular the Hyaluronansynthase 3, and / or d) for the maintenance of dermal elasticity and / or the extensibility of the human skin.

All weight percentages (% by weight) listed below relate, unless otherwise stated, in each case to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation. The following terms and conditions apply to weight ratios unless otherwise stated.

The term "free from" in the sense of the present disclosure means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05 wt .-%. This ensures that entrainment or contamination with these substances is not included in the scope of the invention as being "free from".

Unless otherwise stated, all experiments and process steps were carried out under normal conditions. The term "normal conditions" means 20 ° C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

If the term "skin" is used below, it refers exclusively to the human skin.

According to the present invention, an aqueous fish extract is used to specifically inhibit the activity of elastases. Thus, application of the fish extract results in less elastin being degraded, with the result that, for example, in human skin, the decline in skin elasticity that occurs with age can be reduced. As a result, the cosmetic use of the fish extract according to the invention or of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention leads to the reduced formation of undesired skin folds.

According to the present invention, an aqueous fish extract is used to enhance the expression of elastin. Thus, application of the fish extract on the skin results in more elastin being produced, with the result that, for example, in human skin, the decrease in skin elasticity that occurs with age can be reduced. As a consequence, the cosmetic use of the fish extract according to the invention or of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention leads to the reduced formation of undesired skin folds.

According to the present invention, an aqueous fish extract is used to increase the expression of hyaluronan synthases, in particular hyaluronan synthase 3. Thus, application of the fish extract to the skin results in more hyaluronan synthase, particularly more hyaluronan synthase 3 being produced, with the result that the production of hyaluronic acid is also increased. This effect also has a significant effect on the skin condition, allowing more water to be stored in the skin and reducing the formation of wrinkles.

According to the invention eggs of different fish species can be used for the preparation of the aqueous fish extract. Preferred fish eggs are selected from the spawning salmon, trout and sturgeon. Particularly advantageous results are achieved with the use of spoilers. Accordingly, eggs are preferably used by sturgeons. A large number of different types of sturgeon are known, whose eggs could in principle be used according to the invention in the production process according to the invention. The Siberian sturgeon, the short-nosed sturgeon, the Yangtze sturgeon, the sea sturgeon, the Russian sturgeon or Waxdick, the green sturgeon, the Sakhalin sturgeon, the Adriatic sturgeon, the plain sturgeon, the Atlantic sturgeon, are known among others Persian sturgeon, the Sterlet, the Amur sturgeon, the Chinese sturgeon, the Sternhausen, the European sturgeon, the white sturgeon, the Kaluga house and the European house, which is often called Beluga sturgeon. It should be noted here that a variety of sturgeon species are threatened with extinction, so that should be dispensed with the use of these. The fish eggs of the white sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus) and / or the Siberian sturgeon (Acipenser baerii) are selected as being most preferred according to the invention. The White Sturgeon is considered as non-endangered according to the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources).

In particularly advantageous embodiments of the invention exclusively fish eggs of breeding offenders, in particular of bred Siberian and / or white sturgeon, are used. Within this embodiment, it is furthermore highly preferred if the fish eggs are obtained in a non-lethal method for the fish.

It is erfindains according to the invention if the fish extract is produced within 24 hours after removal of the fish eggs. In addition, it is advantageous if the fish eggs are also preserved after removal with borax.

Alternatively, although not preferred according to the invention, it is possible to freeze-dry the fish eggs after removal in a cryoprotectant and store at a storage temperature of -50 to -90 ° C for up to 12 months. Preferably, the cryoprotectant consists of 1.5 M 1,2-propanediol, 0.2 M sucrose and water. Use of the cryoprotectant prevents damage to the egg membrane during freezing and thawing. Advantageously, the freeze-drying should take place at a rate of -1 ° C per minute up to a storage temperature of -80 ° C. The thawing of eggs prior to production of the fish extract should be done on ice until the eggs have reached a temperature of 1 ° C to 5 ° C. The preparation of the inventive fishy extract of fish eggs according to the invention takes place in this case after thawing the fish eggs to 1 ° C to 5 ° C.

To prepare the aqueous fish extract of the present invention, the fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase to obtain a mixture of the spawners, the oil phase and the aqueous phase. This mixture is referred to as a suspension mixture.

The oil phase contained in the extraction mixture advantageously comprises at least one oil which is liquid at 20 ° C. according to the invention. As especially preferred, the oil known under the INCI name Caprylic / Capric triglycerides has been found, since these components are not expected in the spawners.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, when the proportion of the oil Caprylic / Capric Triglyce-ride in the oil phase of the extraction mixture at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 90 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 97 wt. %, based on the total weight of the oil phase of the extraction mixture.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture contains at least one antioxidant. Tocopherol and / or BHT are preferably used as the antioxidant, the total amount thereof in the oil phase of the extraction mixture being from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the oil phase of the extractant mixture. By using antioxidants within the oil phase of the extraction mixture, the components of the fish eggs, during and after the homogenization of the eggs, are protected from oxidation.

According to the invention, the aqueous phase contained in the extraction mixture is advantageously a phosphate buffer, preferably containing 50 mM to 200 mM phosphates (for example of sodium hydrogenphosphate) and O, 1 to 0.3% by weight EDTA, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase the extraction mixture. Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the aqueous phase according to the invention of the extraction mixture contains at least one preservative in order to prevent the growth of bacteria before, during and after the homogenization. Preferred preservatives to be used are selected from the group phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol and / or ethylhexylglycerol. According to the invention, the total proportion of the preservatives, in particular the total proportion of preservatives designated as preferred, in the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture is 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture.

After suspending the fish eggs in the oil and water phase of the extraction mixture, a mixture of these three components is obtained, which according to the invention is referred to as a suspension mixture. In accordance with the invention, it is advantageous if the proportion by weight of the fish eggs in relation to the aqueous phase of the suspension mixture is 1: 2 to 2: 1, preferably 1: 1.2 to 1.2: 1. Furthermore, it is advantageous if the proportion by weight of the fish eggs in relation to the oil phase of the suspension mixture amounts to 1: 0.2 to 1: 0.4.

According to the invention, the homogenization of the fish eggs in the suspension mixture described above takes place from the fish eggs themselves, the oil phase and the aqueous phase.

According to the invention, the term homogenization means processes in which cells are destroyed in order to access their contents - organelles, proteins, DNA, RNA or other biomolecules.

In general, mechanical and non-mechanical digestion methods can be used for the homogenization. For example, non-mechanical digestion methods correspond to chemical degradation of a cell wall. According to the invention, the mechanical digestion methods are preferred. These include, among others, the Dounce method of shattering the cells by shearing, ultrasonication, where the cells are shattered by cavitation forces, or digestions while applying mechanical pressure, for example, a sample under pressure through a tight seal Valve is pressed (Manton-Gaulin homogenizer). Since different homogenates can occur depending on the homogenization processes, it is particularly preferred according to the invention to apply homogenization processes under the application of mechanical pressure, most preferably processes using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer or a French press.

Advantageously according to the invention, the extraction of the aqueous phase takes place from the homogenate of the suspension mixture by centrifugation with subsequent phase separation. Thus, after the homogenization of the suspension mixture and subsequent centrifugation, it will be advantageous to include an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a sediment. In some cases, between the oil phase and the aqueous phase, another layer can form with cell constituents, which are suspended. In the subsequent separation and extraction of the aqueous phase of the homogenate, it should be avoided as far as possible to remove constituents of the suspended layer of cell constituents.

In the centrifugation, it is advantageous if this is carried out at 1500 to 3000 G. The centrifugation time is advantageously 30 minutes to 2 hours. Subsequently, it should be advantageous to wait until the phases have clearly separated. If the conditions indicated above as advantageous are met, a particularly clean separation of the components is possible.

The resulting aqueous phase of the homogenate already represents an aqueous fish extract. This contains a large number of different ingredients and can thus be defined specifically by the extraction method. Nevertheless, it has been found that aqueous fish extracts which are advantageous according to the invention are further characterized in that these DNA components are present in a proportion by weight of 0.02 to 0.1% by weight, proteins in a proportion by weight of 5 to 15% by weight and carbohydrates in a proportion by weight of from 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous fish extract.

For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term DNA components is to be understood as meaning complete DNA strands and DNA hydrolyzates.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that the process according to the invention for the preparation of the fish extract according to the invention is so gentle that it is additionally possible to extract the vitamins B2, B5 and vitamin PP from the fish eggs. In contrast, the use of other extraction methods known in the prior art often leads to the loss or to a considerable reduction of the vitamin components mentioned. Accordingly, cosmetic or dermatological preparations can now be provided which contain a particularly vitamin-rich aqueous fish extract.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the aqueous fish extract obtained by the process according to the invention is present in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. and in particular preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation, is contained in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Particularly advantageous embodiments of the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprises an aqueous fish extract of spoilage obtained by the process according to the invention, in a total proportion of 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that the resulting inventive fish extract can be advantageously stabilized by this before incorporation into the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in a Gewichtsverhältigkeit 1: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 with an aqueous glycine solution containing 1 to 2 Wt .-% glycine, based on the total weight of the aqueous glycine solution. The weight ratio refers to the fish extract in relation to the aqueous glycine solution. The use of the aqueous glycine solution stabilizes the proteins in the resulting fish extract, thus increasing its shelf life.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the aqueous glycine solution is additionally characterized in that it contains at least one emulsifier with an HLB value in the range from 8 to 12. The use of the emulsifier has the effect that remaining oil-soluble ingredients, proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are stabilized within the aqueous fish extract, so that on prolonged storage, no deposits of substances on the surface of the aqueous fish extract can occur. The proportion by weight of this emulsifier in the aqueous glycine solution is preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous glycine solution. More preferably, polysorbate 80 is selected as the emulsifier.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the aqueous glycine solution is additionally characterized in that it contains at least one preservative chosen from the group consisting of ethylhexylglycerol, phenoxyethanol and / or phenethyl alcohol. Particularly advantageously, the total weight fraction of the abovementioned preservatives is 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycine solution. Such glycine solutions according to the invention make it possible to dispense with heating for bacterial reduction of the aqueous fish extract according to the invention. By using the glycine solution advantageous according to the invention, contamination of the aqueous fish extract with bacteria is excluded or reduced.

Furthermore, the aqueous glycine solution is advantageously characterized in that it contains at least one electrolyte, preferably sodium chloride, in a total proportion of 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycine solution.

The solution obtained from the aqueous fish extract according to the invention and the aqueous glycine solution according to the invention advantageously has a pH in the range from 5.0 to 7.5, preferably 6.0 to 7.0, so that the constituents contained do not pass through be degraded to acidic or basic conditions.

It may also be advantageous in some cases to filter the resulting product from the aqueous fish extract and the aqueous glycine solution since solid or precipitated components so contained can be removed and a clear solution obtained.

The product obtained from the aqueous fish extract and the aqueous glycine solution can be stored without any disadvantages for up to one year in the dark with exclusion of light at 25 ° C before incorporation into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

The resulting aqueous fish extract may be incorporated either directly or after the addition of the aqueous glycine solution described in the various cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be used in the usual cosmetic and / or dermatological pharmaceutical preparation forms, preferably as gel, O / W emulsion, W / O emulsion, W / O / W emulsion, O / W / O emulsion, microemulsion, cosmetic stick.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may be present, preferably as emulsion, ointment, foundation, toner, aqueous solution, cream, gel, powder, mask, foam preparation and aerosol preparation.

Dermatological or cosmetic preparations which are applied to the facial skin for daily care are usually formulated as emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only limitedly miscible, one of the two liquids being dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. With the naked eye, an emulsion appears as homogeneous. If both liquids are water and oil, and the oil is present as finely distributed droplets in the water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion). On the other hand, if the water is present as finely distributed droplets in the oil, then it is a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion).

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in which the fish extract according to the invention is present is in the form of an O / W emulsion.

Emulsifiers serve to stabilize emulsions. Stabilization in this context means that the phase separation of the emulsion is prevented or delayed. Accordingly, by using appropriately selected emulsifier systems, stable emulsions can be produced.

Emulsifiers are molecules having a polar, hydrophilic structural element and a non-polar, lipophilic structural element. In general, such molecules can be defined by the HLB value (dimensionless number between 0 and 20) which indicates whether a preferred water or oil solubility is present. Water-in-oil emulsifiers (W / O emulsifiers) usually have an HLB value in the range of 3 to 8. Accordingly, W / O emulsifiers promote the stabilization of an aqueous phase suspended in an oil phase. Oil-in-water emulsifiers (O / W emulsifiers) have an HLB value greater than 8 to 18. These promote the stabilization of an oil phase which is suspended in an aqueous phase.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing the aqueous fish extract according to the invention is present as an oil-in-water emulsion, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains at least one O / W emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of greater 8 to 18 contains. Advantageous O / W emulsifiers to be selected are listed, for example, in the following list: HLB value Chemical name 8.2 Triglycerol monooleate 8.3 Diethylene glycol monolaurate 8.4 Polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) dioleate 8.5 Sodium caproyl lactylate Polyethylene glycol (200) Monostearate Sorbitan monooleate 8.6 Sorbitan monolaurate Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate 8.8 polyoxyethylene (4) myristyl ether polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate

8.9 Nonylphenol, polyoxyethylated with 4 moles of EO 9.0 Oleth-5 9.2-9.7 Polyoxyethylene (4) Lauryl alcohol 9.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) tridecyl alcohol 9.6 Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate 9.8 Polyethylene glycol (200) Monolaurate 10-11 Polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate 10.0 didodecyldimethylammonium chloride 10.0 polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate polyethylene glycol (400) dilaurate polyethylene glycol (600) dioleate polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate HLB value Chemical name

Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate 10-12 glyceryl stearate citrate 10.2 polyoxyethylene (40) sorbitol hexaoleate 10.4-10.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (600) distearate 10.5 polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate 10.6 sucrose monostearate 10.7 sucrose monooleate 11-11.4 polyethyleneglycol (400 ) monooleate 11.0 polyethylene glycol (350) monostearate polyethylene glycol (400) monotalate polyoxyethylene glycol (7) monostearate polyoxyethylene glycol (8) monooleate polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate polyoxyethylene (6) tridecyl alcohol 11.1 polyethylene glycol (400) monostearate 11.2 polyoxyethylene (9) monostearate sucrose monooleate sucrose monostearate 11.4 polyoxyethylene ( 50) sorbitol hexaoleate sucrose monotallate sucrose stearate palmitate 11.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monoricinoleate 11.7 sucrose monomyristate sucrose monopalmitate 12.0 PEG-10 soy sterol

triethanolamine

12.2-12.3 nonylphenol ethoxylated with 8 moles EO 12.2 sucrose monomyristate 12.4 sucrose monolaurate polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl ether polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl ether 12.5 polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl cetyl ether 12.7 polyoxyethylene (8 ) tridecyl alcohol 12.8 polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monolaurate sucrose monococoate HLB value Chemical name 12.9 polyoxyethylene (10) cetyl ether 13 glycerol monostearate, ethoxylated (20 moles EO) 13.0 eumulgin O 10 (polyoxyethylene (IO) oleyl ether) eumulgin 286 (nonoxynol-10)

Eumulgin B 1 (Ceteareth-12) 13.0 C12 fatty amines, ethoxylated (5 moles EO) 13.1 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated (9.5 moles EO) 13.2 Polyethylene glycol (600) Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (16) tall oil 13.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate 13.5 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated (10.5 mol EO)

Polyethylene glycol (600) monooleate 13.7 polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl alcohol polyethylene glycol (660) monotalate polyethylene glycol (1500) monostearate polyoxyethylene glycol (1500) dioleate 13.9 polyethylene glycol (400) monococoate polyoxyethylene (9) monolaurate 14-16 castor oil ethoxylated with 40 EO and hydrogenated 14.0 polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl ether polyoxyethylene (12) tridecyl alcohol 14.2 polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl alcohol 14.3 polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl cetyl ether

14.4 Mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols with 12 moles of EO 14.5 polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl alcohol 14.8 polyoxyethylene glycol (600) monolaurate 14.9-15.2 sorbitan monostearate ethoxylated with 20 EO 15- 15.9 sorbitan monooleate ethoxylated with 20 EO 15.0 PEG -20 Glyceryl Stearate PEG-40 Castor Oil Decyl Glucoside Dodecyl Glucoside

Dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride Nonylphenol, ethoxylated with 15 moles EO Polyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate HLB value Chemical name

Polyoxyethylene (600) monooleate 15-17 castor oil ethoxylated with 60 EO and hydrogenated 15.3 C12 fatty amines polyoxyethylated with 12 moles EO polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether 15.4 polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl cetyl ether 15.5 polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl alcohol 15.6 Polyoxyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate 15.7 polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether 15.9 disodium triethanolamine distearylheptaglycol ether sulfosuccinate 16.0 nonylphenol ethoxylated with 20 moles EO polyoxyethylene (25) propylene glycol stearate 16-168 polyoxyethylene (30) monostearate 16.3-16.9 polyoxyethylene (40) monostearate 16.5-16.7 polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate 16.6 polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitol 16.7 C18 fatty amines polyoxyethylated with 5 moles EO polyoxyethylene (23) lauryl alcohol 17.0 ceteareth-30, eg Eumulgin B 3 octylglucoside (Triton CG 110)

Polyoxyethylene (30) glyceryl monolaurate

17.1 Nonylphenol ethoxylated with 30 moles EO 17.4 Polyoxyethylene (40) stearyl alcohol 18.8 PEG-100 Stearates Steareth-100 19.1 PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate In the above listing, the abbreviation EO stands for ethylene oxide.

According to the invention, such an O / W emulsion may advantageously also comprise W / O emulsifiers, the ratio of the O / W emulsifiers to the W / O emulsifiers, taking into account the respective HLB values, being such that an O / W emulsion sets. A known mixture of O / W emulsifiers and W / O emulsifiers is the commercial product Arlacel 170 from Croda containing glyceryl stearates and PEG-100 stearates, wherein the ratio of the two substances is chosen so that a total HLB of about 11 results.

In addition to the aqueous fish extract according to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention advantageously contains oils selected from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides may advantageously be chosen from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, maca damianussoil, and the like.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention may advantageously contain oils which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention may advantageously contain fat and / or wax components from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earthwax) are favorable according to the present invention. , Paraffin waxes and microwaxes.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those available under the Flandelsbezeichnungen Syncrowax FIRC (glyceryl tribehenate) and Syncrowax AW 1 C (C18-36 fatty acid) at CRODA GmbH and Montanesterwachse, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C30-50-AI-kyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C20-40 alkyl stearate, C20-4O alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate.

It may also be advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains cyclic, branched and / or linear silicones. The group of cyclic, branched and / or linear silicones are also referred to in the present disclosure as "silicone oils". Linear silicone oils are described by the INCI name dimethicone and have a structure according to the formula (I)

while, branched silicone oils according to the formula (II)

wherein R1 and R2 independently of each other may be a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and wherein x, y, and z are each integer numbers in the range of 0 to 60 000 are. Cyclic silicones are known by the INCI name Cyclomethicone.

It is advantageous if the weight fraction of the silicone oils in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is 3% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is advantageously characterized in that the total amount of the oil phase in the O / W emulsion 2 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 5 wt .-% to 25 wt .-% and in particular preferably from 8% by weight to 22% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation. The silicone oils also count to the oil phase of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Moreover, it is advantageous if the total amount of water in the inventive cosmetic or dermatological preparation 50 wt .-% to 90 wt .-%, preferably 60 wt .-% to 80 wt .-%, based on the total weight cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains one or more rheology modifiers. Preferred rheology modifiers to be selected are selected from the group of the following INCI substances: carbomer (carbopols of the types 980, 981, 2984, 5984 from the company Lubrizol); Acrylates copolymer (eg Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 polymer from the company Lubrizol), acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (eg Pemulen TR 1, Pemu len TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from the company. Lubrizol), hydroxyethyl acrylates / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate A / P copolymer (eg Aristoflex AVC from Clariant), polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer (eg Carbopol® Aqua CC polymer from the company Lubrizol); Sodium polyacrylates (e.g., Cosmedia SP from BASF); Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and acrylic acid - celluloses and cellulose derivatives, e.g. Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hyaluronic acid and xanthan gum candies, for example tapioca starch.

The rheology modifiers are particularly preferably selected from the group of the substances known under the INCI name Carbomer, Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylates, hydroxyethyl acrylates / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer.

Advantageously, the total amount of these rheology modifiers, in particular the total proportion of the rheology modifiers characterized above as preferred, is from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation. In addition, it is particularly advantageous if, in addition to the substances mentioned above as being particularly preferred, tapioca starch is contained in an amount of up to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the weight ratio of all inventive rheology modifiers to the oil phase contained is 1: 1 to 1:30, preferably 1: 2 to 1:28, particularly preferably 1:20 to 1:27 , Such inventive cosmetic or dermatological preparations have a surprisingly advantageous creaminess and are not perceived as crumbly or too oily and too liquid by the consumer.

[0083] It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention contains cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, it is advantageous according to the invention if the total proportion of these substances is from 0.5 to 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Moreover, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention additionally comprises one or more substances from the group of ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, propanediol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or mono-butyl ether and / or diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether. It is preferred if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains glycerol and / or propanediol.

It is likewise advantageous to use the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention as sunscreen agents. Accordingly, the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the present invention may contain at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature.

Homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate.) Are particularly advantageous room temperature liquid UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention , Octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol®SLX from Hoffmann La Roche is.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other sparingly water-soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3), zirconium (ZrO 2), silicon (SiO 2), manganese ( eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3), cerium (eg Ce 2 O 3), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the barium sulfate (BaSO 4).

The pigments can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Advantageously, dispersants and / or solubilizers can be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), in which case, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained. This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by processes known per se. The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:

Tradename Coating Manufacturer MT-100TV Aluminum Hydroxide / Stearic Acid Tayca Corporation MT-100Z Aluminum Hydroxide / Stearic Acid Tayca Corporation

Eusolex T-2000 Alumina / Simethicone Merck KgaA

Titanium Dioxide T805 (Uvinul TiO2) Octyltrimethylsilane Degussa

Tioveil AQ10PG Alumina / Silica Solaveil / Uniquema

Eusolex T-aqua Water / Alumina / Sodium Metaphosphate Merck Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356) -09-1) sold by Givaudan under the trademark Par-sol® 1789 and by Merck under the tradename Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are furthermore: phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium , Potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3,5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS) No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Symrise; Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro at Symrise; 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo) bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also known as benzene-1,4 Benzo-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-Methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts • Benzoxazole derivatives, such as the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4- phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine having CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is obtained at 3V Sigma under de r commercial name Uvasorb® K2A is available.

Hydroxybenzophenones, e.g. the 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (IN-Cl: Bis-) Ethylhexyloxylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [ anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150; 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6). Benzotriazoles as eg 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (INCI: Methylene bis-benztriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) which is available, for example, from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH under the trade name Tinosorb® M. 3-Benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- ( Dimethylamino) -benzoesäure (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoesâureamyiester; • esters of BenzalmalonsÄure, preferably 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsâuredi (2-ethylhexyl) ester; • esters of Z imtsâure, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methyl-benzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, and UV-bound UV filters • ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 T.

Particularly advantageous cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UVA. and / or broadband filters, in particular di-benzoyl-methane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'- TetrasulfonsÄure-bis-sodium salt in each case individually or in any combination with each other.

The list of said UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is, of course, not intended to be limiting.

The total amount of the filter substances is from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 8.0 wt .-% - each based on the Total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparations - chosen to provide cosmetic or dermatological preparations which protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention comprises at least one active ingredient for the cosmetic treatment and / or cosmetic prophylaxis of undesired skin pigmentation. Accordingly, the cosmetic or dermatological preparation advantageously contains at least one alkylamidothiazole.

Advantageous alkylamidothiazoles in the context of the present invention are substances of the general formula

in which R3, R4, X 'and Y' may be different, partly identical or identical and may independently of one another denote: R3 = C1-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), C1-C24- Alkenyl (linear and branched), C 1 -C 6 -cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 6 -cycloalkyl-alkylhydroxy, C 1 -C 24 -alkylhydroxy (linear and branched), C 1 -C 24 -alkylamine (linear and branched), Ci-C24-Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-Alkylaryl-Alkyl-Hydroxy (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-Alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), -C ^ M-Alkyl-O-Ci- C 1-4 alkyl (linear and branched), C 1-4 C 1-6 alkyl-morpholino, C 1-12 alky-piperidino, C 1-12 alkylpiperazino, C 1-12 alkylpiperazino-N-alkyl , R4 = H, -Ci-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkenyl (linear and branched), -Ci-Ce-cycloalkyl, -Ci-C24-hydroxyalkyl (linear and .alpha Branched), -Ci-C24-alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C ^ C ^ -Alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), means, X '= -H, -C1-C24-alkyl (linear and branched) -C1-C24- Alkenyl (linear and branched), -C ^ Ce-Cycloalkyl, -Ci-C24-Aryl (if necessary. monosubstituted or polysubstituted by -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH 2, -CN), -C 1 -C 4 -heteroaryl (optionally monosubstituted or polysubstituted by -OH, F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH2, -CN), -C ^ C 1-4 -alkylaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-Al-kylheteroaryl (linear and branched), -aryl (optionally mono- or polysubstituted by -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH 2, -CN), -phenyl, -2,4-dihydroxyphenyl, -2,3-dihydroxyphenyl, -2,4-dimethoxyphenyl, -2,3-dimethoxyphenyl, Y '= H, -C1-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -C1-C24-alkenyl (linear and branched), -C ^ Ce-cycloalkyl, -C1-C24-aryl, -Ci-C24-heteroaryl, -C1-C24-alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C1-C24-alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), -aryl, -phenyl, -2 , 4-dihydroxyphenyl, -2,3-dihydroxyphenyl, -2,4-dimethoxyphenyl, -2,3-dimethoxyphenyl, -COO-alkyl, -COO-AI-kenyl, -COO-cycloalkyl, -COO-aryl, -COO -Heteroaryl, means, and X ', Y' may also optionally = = condensed aromatic, wherein X 'and Y' unterei nander aromatic tables or aliphatic homo- or heterocyclic ring systems with up to n ring-forming atoms can form, and wherein the number n can assume values of 5 to 8, and the respective ring systems turn with up to n-1 alkyl groups, hydroxyl groups, carboxyl groups , Amino groups, nitrile functions, sulfur-containing substituents, ester groups and / or ether groups may be substituted.

The stated thiazoles can be present both as a free base and as a salt; e.g. as fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, carbonate, ascorbate, acetate or phosphate. In particular, as halogen salts, e.g. Chloride and bromide.

Advantageously, X 'is selected from the group of substituted phenyls, where the substituents Z' can be selected from the group -H, -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH 2, -CN, acetyl and the same or different.

X 'is particularly advantageously selected from the group of phenyl groups substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, where the substituent Z' can be selected from the group -H, -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, - I, -OMe, -NH 2, -CN, acetyl and the following generic structure is preferred in which Y ', R3 and R4 may have the properties defined above.

Particularly advantageous are those compounds in which

[0110] X '

[0111] Y '= H

R 3 = C 1 -C 24 -alkyl (linear and branched), C 1 -C 24 -alkenyl (linear and branched), C 1 -C 6 -cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 8 -cycloalkyl-alkylhydroxy, ci C24 Alkylhydroxy (linear and branched), -Ci-C24 Alkylamine (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-Alkylaryl-alkyl-hydroxy (linear and branched), -CiC ^ -Alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), -CiC ^ -alkyl-O-Ci-CM-alkyl (linear and branched), - C- | -C24 Alky-Morpholino, -0 · ι-024 Alky-piperidino, -C- -C-C24 Alky-piperazino, -O ·-024 Alky-piperazino-N-alkyl, R4 = H, -CiC ^ -alkyl (linear and branched).

Z '= -H, -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH2, -CN, acetyl.

Particularly preferred are those compounds in which [0116] X '=

Υ = Η R3 = -Ci-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkenyl (linear and branched), -Ci-C8-cycloalkyl, -Ci-C8-cyclo-alkyl -Alkylhydroxy, -O-, - 0¾ Alkylhydroxy (linear and branched), -O -, - 024 Alkylamine (linear and branched), -C | -C24-Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C24- Alkylaryl-alkyl-hydroxy (linear and branched), -Ci-C24-alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), -Ci-C-C-alkyl-O-Ci-C24-alkyl (linear and branched), -0-, - 0¾ Alky-morpholino, -O -, - 0¾ Alky-piperidino, -0 -, - 0¾ Alky-piperazino, -0, -0¾ Alky-piperazino-N-alkyl, R4 = H.

[0120] The compounds

A ^ (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) pivalarriide

// - (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -3-hydroxypropanamide

JV- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) cyclohexanecarboxamides and

V- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -2- (4- (hydroxymethyl) phenyl) acetarnides are the preferred compounds of the present invention.

According to the invention, the proportion of the above-described alkylamidothiazoles in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.000001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.0001 to 3% by weight, very particularly from 0.001 to 1% by weight. %, in each case based on the total weight of the dermatological or cosmetic preparations.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations may accordingly also contain further cosmetic adjuvants such as are conventionally used in such preparations, for example further resistance initiators, film formers, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, others Pigments which have a coloring effect, surface-active substances, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, antiinflammatory substances, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, insect repellents, bactericides, virucides, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances or other conventional constituents a cosmetic formulation such as other alcohols, polyols, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or electrolytes.

Comparative Experiments and Examples The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. All amounts, proportions and percentages are, unless stated otherwise, based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. (a) Preparation of a Fish Extract According to the Invention: To produce a fish extract according to the invention, fish eggs of white sturgeon (fish eggs from farmed stocks were exclusively used) were removed and treated with borax. Within 24 hours after removal, the production of the aqueous fish extract took place.

In addition, an oil phase was provided consisting of 99.98% by weight of caprylic / capric triglycerides, 0.01% by weight of tocopherol and 0.01% by weight of BHT.

The additional aqueous phase provided consisted of: 100 mM phosphates (from sodium hydrogen phosphate); 1% by weight of phenoxyethanol; 1% by weight of the commercial product Sensivia Pa 20 from Schülke & Mayr containing phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexyl glycerin; 0.2% by weight of EDTA; and water.

The oil phase provided and the aqueous phase provided were combined and then the fish eggs were suspended in this mixture. The weight ratio of the oil phase to the spawners was 0.3: 1 and the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the spawners was 1: 1.

The resulting mixture of the oil phase, the aqueous phase and the fish eggs was then homogenized by using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer.

The homogenate obtained was then centrifuged at 2000 G for one hour. This was followed by manual phase separation, the water phase representing the fish extract according to the invention.

To improve the maintainability of the obtained fish extract, this was 1: 1 with an aqueous glycine solution consisting of 1.5% by weight of glycine, 1.5% by weight of sodium chloride, 1.5% by weight of phenoxyethanol, 1.0% by weight of Polysorbate 80 and Mixed water. Subsequently, a filtration was carried out to improve the purity. (b) Analysis The analysis of the water phase of the homogenate from (a), ie the fish extract according to the invention prior to addition of the glycine solution, has been able to determine the following constituents of the extract: proteins = 9% by weight c DNA = 0, 6% by weight • Carbohydrates = 0.84% by weight • Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) = 376 pg / 100g • Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) = 2.40 mg / 100g • Vitamin PP (niacin / amide) = 6, 12 mg / 100g Wherein the wt .-% information refers to the total weight of the water phase of the homogenate from (a), ie the fish extract. (c) Efficacy Study on Elastase Activity To test the ability of the fish extract of the present invention to investigate the extent to which the extract can inhibit the activity of Elasfase. For this purpose, the fish extract mixed with glycine solution in (a) was incubated together with the lysate of human dermal fibroblasts. To assess the activity of elastase, succinyl- (Ala) 3-p-nitroanilide was added to the mixture which assumes a yellow color upon degradation by elastase. The color intensity obtained, measured at 405 nm after 1-2 hours of incubation, thus represents a measure of the activity of elastase.

The investigation described above was carried out with a total content of 0.1% by weight and with a total content of 0.3% by weight of the product obtained in (a) from fish extract and glycine solution. This corresponded to an active content of 0.05% by weight and 0.15% by weight of the fish extract according to the invention. The proportions by weight described above are based on the total weight of the respective batch. In addition, elastase activity without the addition of the product obtained from fish extract and glycine solution was investigated as a reference measurement. The elastase activity determined in the reference measurement was rated as 100% activity. If the elasticity decreases in comparison to this measurement, a value below 100% is obtained.

The measurement results obtained are shown in FIG. It has been shown that elastase activity decreases significantly even when 0.1% by weight of the product from the fish extract and the glycine solution is used. If the use concentration is further increased, this effect is further increased. (d) Efficacy Study on Expression of Elastin In order to demonstrate the beneficial efficacy of the aqueous fish extract of the present invention, it was examined to what extent the extract enhances the expression of the elastin gene in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF / Hu-man Dermal Fibroblasts) , For this purpose, the cells (HDF) were incubated for 24 h with the extract to be tested in DMEM Medi-um (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium) with 2% by weight FBS (Fetal Bovine Serum). Subsequently, all of the RNA was extracted with a GenElute Mammalian Total RNA Purification Kit (SIGMA) and processed according to instructions. The expression of the gene for elastin was quantified according to Real Time Quantitative PCR with the specific primer Eln-Fw: 5 CACTGGAGCAGGAGTTAA3 'and Eln-Rv: 5'ACCTGGGACAA-CTGGAATC3'.

For a comparative experiment, the above examination was carried out once without the aqueous fish extract according to the invention and once with 0.001% by weight of the product obtained in (a) from the aqueous fish extract according to the invention and the glycine solution. Accordingly, the aqueous fish extract according to the invention was used in an active content of 0.0005% by weight. In addition, an oil-based fish extract of fish eggs from white sturgeon, also obtained by a mechanical method under pressure, was examined. This was used in a proportion of 0.1 wt .-% and 0.3 wt .-%.

The measurement results obtained are shown in FIG. 2. As can be seen, the use of the aqueous fish extract according to the invention (a) leads to an increase in the expression of the gene for elastin. There was an increase of 26% (statistically significant, p <0.05) compared to the control.

In contrast, the use of the oil-based fish extract showed an inhibition of the expression of the gene for elastin over the control. Although an increase in the proportion of the oil-based fish extract showed a lower inhibition, but a significantly lower expression of the gene was detected for elastin compared to the control. By contrast, the aqueous fish extract according to the invention shows a clearly increased expression of the gene for elastin even at a very low starting concentration and is far superior to the oil-based fish extract (of the same fish species). (e) Efficacy study on the expression of hyaluronan synthase 3 In order to demonstrate the beneficial activity of the aqueous fish extract according to the invention, it was investigated to what extent the extract enhances the expression of the gene for hyaluronan synthase 3 in human keratinocytes. For this purpose, the cells (human keratinocytes) were incubated for 6 h with the extract to be tested. Subsequently, the entire RNA was extracted with a GenElute Mammalian Total RNA Purification Kit (SIGMA) and processed according to instructions. The quantitative determination of the gene for hyaluronan synthase 3 was carried out according to RT-PCR (Real Time Quantitative PCR) with the specific primer HAS3-Fw: 5'AGCCTATGTGACGGGCTA 3 'and HAS3-Rv: 5TCCCCACTTCTGCATGATG 3'.

For a comparative experiment, the above examination was carried out once without the aqueous fish extract according to the invention and once with 0.003% by weight of the product obtained in (a) from the aqueous fish extract according to the invention and the glycine solution. In addition, an oil-based fish extract from white sturgeon fish eggs, also obtained by a mechanical pressure-exerting method, was tested. This was used in a proportion of 0.1 wt .-%.

The results obtained are shown in FIG. 3. As can be seen, the use of the inventive aqueous fish extract (a) results in an increase in the expression of the gene for hyaluronan synthase 3. An increase of 19% (statistically significant, p <0.01) was found over the control. By contrast, the oil-based fish extract used in comparison showed no increase in the expression of the gene for hyaluronan synthase 3.

Example formulations: [0143]

Example Number 1 2 3 4 5 PEG-100 Stearate 2.0 0.9 PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate 1.1 PEG-40 Stearate 1.0

Ceteareth-25 0.5

Sefeareth-100 0.5 2.0

Ceteth-20 1.0

Myristyl myristate 1.0 1.0

Glyceryl Stearate 1,1 2,0

Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 1.0

Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 2.5

Cetyl Alcohol 1.0 3.0

Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 2.0

Butyrosperrnum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.0 2.0 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3.0 2.0 3.5

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 1.0 1.5

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0

Ethyl hexyl cocoate 3.0 1.5

Octyldodecanol 1.0

Paraffin Liquidum 1.0

Cera Microcristallina 2.0 1.0 1.5

Cyclomethicone 4.1 1.0 4.0 3.5 5.0

Dimethicone 2,3 1,0 1,2

Dicaprylyl ether 1.0 4.0 2.0

Dicarprylyl Carbonate 2.8 N - (4- (2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide 0.2 0.1 0.05 0.3 0.4

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 4.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 2.5

Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonates 1.0 1.0 1.5 0.5 2.0

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid 2.0 3.0 1.0 1.5 1.5

Ethyl hexyl triazone 2.0

Octocrylene 2.5

Ethyl hexyl salicylate 1.0

Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.05

Product of (a) (50% fish extract + 50% glycine solution) 0.4 0.2 0.16 0.4 0.1

Biotin 0.04

Retinyl palmitate 0.1

Thioctic Acid 0.1

Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0

Sodium Citrate 0.1

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.1 0.1

Trisodium EDTA 0.1

Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

Butyl paraben 0.6 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.3

Alcohol denate. 2.0

Xanthan gum 0.1

Carbomer 0.05 0.1 0.1

Polyacrylamide 0.2

Glycerin 10 6,016.5 7.5 8.0

Butylene Glycol 2.0 1.0 Fillers / Additives (Dist. Phosphate, SiO 2, BHT, Tal 0.1 1.0 0.2 0.5 0.05 Kum, Aluminum Stearate)

Perfumes q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Aqua Ad Ad Ad Ad 100 100 100 100 100

Example Number 6 7 8 9 10 PEG-50 Stearate 2.5 1.0 PEG-40 Stearate 1.0 1.0 0.5 PEG-8 Stearate 1.0 PEG-8 Distearate 1.0

Glyceryl Stearate 3.0

Sorbitan Stearate 1.0

Steareth-21 2.0 1.0

Steareth-2 1.0

Cetearyl Glucoside 2.0

Myristyl myristate 1.0

Behenyl Alcohol 1.0 2.0

Stearyl Alcohol 5.0

Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 2.0 1.0

Cetyl Alcohol 1.0

Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 1.0 1

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.5 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoates 2.0 5.0 2.5

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 1.5 2.0

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 1.0 1.5 3.5

Ethyl hexyl cocoate 2.0

Octyldodecanol 1.0 1.5

Paraffin Liquidum 1.0

Cera Microcristallina 1.8

Cyclomethicone 4.0 3.5 2.0 5.0 2.0

Dimethicone 2.0 1.5

Dicaprylyl ether 2.0

Dicarprylyl Carbonates 2.0 3.0 3.5

Polydecenes 4

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.0 3.0 4.5 5.0 4.2

Phenylbenzimidazoie Sulphonic Acid 0.5 2.0 2.0 3.3 1.0

Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonates 1.0 1.0 1.5 2.3 0.5

Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.03

Product of (a) (50% fish extract + 50% glycine solution) 0.06 0.4 0.12 0.35 0.25

Biotin 0.02

Retinyl palmitate 0.2

Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 0.5

Ascorbic acid 0.05

Trisodium EDTA 0.2 0.1

Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.3

Butylparaben 0.1 0.4 0.6

Ethylhexylglycerol 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.4

Alcohol Denat. 8.0 3.0

Xanthan gum 0.1

Carbomer 0.2 0.1 0.1

Polyacrylamide 0.2

Glycerin 10 5.0 6.0 4.0 7.0

Butylene glycol 2.0

Additives (starch phosphate, SiO 2, talc, BHT aluminum stearate) 0.03 0.05 3.0

Perfumes q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Aqua Ad Ad Ad Ad 100 100 100 100 100

Example number 11 12 13 14 15 PEG-100 Stearate 1.4 0.1 1.2

Glyceryl Stearate 1.4 0.5 0.2 1.0 0.9

Ceteareth-100 2 3.1 2.1

Sorbitan Stearate 2,3 2,5

Polysorbate 60 0.1 0.3 0.8 0.7

Polysorbate 80 0.8 0.5 0.1

Sorbitane isostearates 0,1 0,25 0,05

Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter 3.0 1.2 2.7

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.5 3.5 1.9

Jojoba Esters 2.0 2.5 1.3 0.5 1.0

Beewax 1.0 0.2 0.8 1.6 2.0

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 0.5 0.1

Persea Gratissima Oil 0.7 0.3 0.5

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil 0.1 0.6 0.1

Cyclomethicone 3.6 0.1 0.1 1.2

Dimethicone 5.4 4.5 5.0 3.6

Squalane 3.0 1.9

Carbomer 0.2 0.4 0.15

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloydimethyl Taurate Copolymer 1.7 0.1 1.0 2.0 0.1

Polymethyl methacrylate 0.5 0.6 0.1

Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.6 0.3 0.25

Pullulan 0.5 0.4

Carrageenan 0.2 0.3 0.7 0.3

Claims (21)

Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.1 0.25 Methylpropanediol 1.3 Glycerol 3.1 1.7 4.0 2.8 3.5 Sorbitol 0.1 Propanediol 2.0 1.9 Propylene Glycol 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.3 Pentylene Glycol 0.1 0.5 Butylene Glycol 0.2 0.3 0.2 Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 0.2 0.45 0.35 Ubiquinone 0.1 0.2 0.15 Retinyl Palmitates 0.15 0.15 biotin 0.05 product of (a) (50% fish extract + 50% glycine solution) 0.2 0.1 0.3 0.09 0.4 disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0, 1 0.1 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.3 0.5 0.3 0.45 Ethylhexylglycerol 0.2 0.1 0.05 Titanium Dioxide 0.3 0.1 0.2 Tapioca Starch 0.05 Talc 0.05 Perfumes qs q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Aqua Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad 100 100 100 100 100 Claims Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing an aqueous fish extract, characterized in that the aqueous fish extract is obtainable by a) suspending fish eggs in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, b) homogenizing the suspension mixture a), and c ) the aqueous phase of the homogenate b) is extracted. 2. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the fish eggs are selected from the fish eggs of salmon, trout and sturgeon, fish eggs being preferred by sturgeons. 3. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 2, characterized in that the fish eggs of the white sturgeon and / or the Siberian sturgeon are selected. 4. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in net that the aqueous fish extract is produced within 24 hours after removal of the fish eggs. 5. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture contains caprylic / capric triglycerides, the proportion of caprylic / capric triglycerides in the oil phase of the extraction mixture preferably being at least 90% by weight. and particularly preferably at least 97% by weight, based on the total weight of the oil phase of the extraction mixture. 6. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in net that the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture contains at least one antioxidant. 7. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized marked net, that the aqueous phase contained in the extraction mixture is a phosphate buffer, preferably containing 50 mM to 200 mM phosphates and 0.1 wt .-% to 0.3 wt % EDTA, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture. 8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in net that the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture contains at least one preservative, preferably selected from the group phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol and / or ethylhexylglycerol. 9. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight fraction of the eggs to the aqueous phase of the suspension mixture 1: 2 to 2: 1, preferably 1: 1.2 to 1.2: 1 amounts. 10. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight fraction of fish eggs to the oil phase of the suspension mixture 1: 0.2 to 1: 0.4 amounts. 11. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized marked net, that for the homogenization of the suspension mixture, a mechanical digestion method is applied. 12. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 11, characterized in that for the homogenization of the suspension mixture, a method is applied by applying mechanical pressure. 13. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extraction of the aqueous phase from the homogenates of the spawning takes place by centrifugation with subsequent phase separation. 14. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in net that the aqueous fish extract is characterized in that this DNA components in a weight proportion of 0.02 to 0.1 wt .-%, proteins in one 5 to 15% by weight of carbohydrates and 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous fish extract. 15. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in net that the aqueous fish extract in a total proportion of 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0, 1 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatolo-gische preparation is included. 16. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in net that the aqueous fish extract before incorporation into the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the Ge ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 with an aqueous glycine solution containing 1 to 2% by weight of glycine, based on the total weight of the aqueous glycine solution. 17. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 16, characterized in that the aqueous glycine solution is additionally characterized in that it contains at least one emulsifier with an HLB value in the range from 8 to 12. 18. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of claims 16 to 17, characterized in that the aqueous glycine solution is additionally characterized in that it contains at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of ethylhexylglycerol, phenoxyethanol and / or phenethyl alcohol. 19. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized marked net, that at least one Alkylamidthiazol is included. 20. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 19 a) for inhibiting elastase activity, b) for increasing the expression of elastin, c) for increasing the expression of hyaluronan synthases, in particular hyaluronan synthase 3, and / or d) Preservation of skin elasticity and / or elasticity of human skin. 21. A process for the preparation of an aqueous fish extract, characterized in that a) the fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, b) the suspension mixture a) is homogenized, and c) the aqueous phase of the homogenate b ) is extracted.