WO2006128779A1

WO2006128779A1 - Cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous anis fruit extract and specific non-ionic emulsifiers

Info

Publication number: WO2006128779A1
Application number: PCT/EP2006/062195
Authority: WO
Inventors: Uta Kruse; Christopher Mummert; Stefan Gallinat; Raschke Thomas
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2005-06-03
Filing date: 2006-05-10
Publication date: 2006-12-07
Also published as: EP1890775A1; DE102005026005A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing (a) an aqueous fruit extract from anis (pimpinella anis fruit extract), licensed under the trade name Bioxilift of the company SILAB, St. Viance, France (b) and one or more emulsifiers which are selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, PEG-40-steartate, PEG-100-stearate, ceteareth-20 and steareth-21.

Description

description

COSMETIC PREPARATIONS CONTAINING A CONTENT OF A WATER ANIMAL EXTRACT AND CERTAIN NON-SPECIAL EMULSIFICATORS

The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and one or more emulsifiers.

Under cosmetics, one can summarize all measures that make changes to the skin and hair for aesthetic reasons or to cleanse the body. Cosmetics, then, means to care for, improve and beautify the outer body in order to please the fellow human being as well as oneself in a visible, tangible and smelly way. Thousands of years ago people used cosmetics for this purpose. One colored lips and face, anointed itself with valuable oils and bathed in fragrant water.

The experts have long been searching for cosmetic preparations that are effective against wrinkles or cellulite.

A very important for the consumer, but it is difficult to quantitatively measurable property of cosmetic products is a certain invigorating and / or smooth skin feel and the suppleness of the skin after its application.

A rosy skin color (such as is available by staying in the open air) is considered by consumers to be healthy and therefore desirable, whereas a pale complexion is generally not as desirable. It is an object of the present invention to provide skincare preparations and preparations for the care of naturally aged skin, wherein the preparations are intended to nourish and beautify the external appearance of the body and at the same time reduce wrinkles and eliminate cellulites.

It has surprisingly been found that a cosmetic preparation containing (a) an aqueous extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France, and (b) one or more several emulsifiers selected from the group glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20 and steareth-21 from the disadvantages of the prior art. Such a preparation has the substantial advantage over prior art formulations that it has a significantly higher long-term physicochemical stability than conventional emulsions prepared, for example, with stearic acid as an emulsifier, since the salts contained in the aqueous fruit extract of anise lead to W emulsions in a few weeks to a phase separation of the emulsion under conventional storage conditions (temperature range from -10 ⁰ C to 40 ⁰ C).

In addition, such preparation has the following additional benefits: It promotes the natural regeneration process and cell metabolism of the skin, activates skin protection systems and makes the skin more resistant to stressors, counteracts (first) signs of aging, reducing lines and facial lines, refining pores and The skin is visibly tightened and smoothed, deeply activates the skin's own production of components of connective tissue such as collagens, elastic fibers and proteoglycans (including hyaluronic acids), counteracts the formation of new wrinkles sustainably, the energy depots / reserves filled and the skin / cell regeneration improves, rejuvenates the skin's internal structure by improving the epidermal-dermal (papillae), thereby refining and tightening facial and skin contours, firming the skin palpably and visibly and improving skin elasticity.

By the combination of anise fruit extracts with one or more emulsifiers selected from the group glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ceteareth-20 and Steareth-21 will produce a stable O / W emulsion in line with the market, making the extracts particularly suitable for use in cosmetic preparations and the requirements for Stability, compatibility and effectiveness.

Bioxilift is an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract). The extract has an amber-like color and has a characteristic anise smell.

The extract is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, but especially in potassium ions. The recorded spectra do not deliver

Clue for the identification of individual lead structures or principles of action. Rather, the spectra represent "typical" plant extract spectra.

The specific composition is:

Dry matter: 40-60 g / l

Mineral ashes 11-18 g / l

Total protein 12-20 g / l pH 4.5-5.5

The extract is preserved with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% and is in

Ethanol to a ratio of 40/60 ethanol / water (v / v) soluble.

During production, the aniseed fruits are solubilized in water and hydrolyzed enzymatically. The ratio of raw material to extract is V ₂ . Soluble and insoluble phases are separated and then filtered or filtered sterile thereafter. Bioxilift is offered by the company SILAB, France.

It is also advantageous in the context of the present invention to prepare cosmetic preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of further UV protective substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protectants, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Also favorable are cosmetic preparations that are in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase and which, in particular, can also be free of further oil components.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthylsalicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2 Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate,

INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bisethoxycarbonyl-vinyl) -phenoxy) -propenyl) -methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche. Advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are also:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-natrium umsalz with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example under the trade name Neo

Heliopan AP is available from Symrise;

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its ethanolamine ammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or from Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise;

1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-) oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene 1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name terephthalic dicampher Sulfonic acid (CAS No.: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomyliden- methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Benzoxazole derivatives, such as. As the 2,4-bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3,5-triazine with the CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A.

Hydroxybenzophenones, e.g. B. 2- (4'-diethylamino-2 ¹ -hydoxybenzoyl) -benzoesäure- hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus from BASF. Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis- Ethylhexyloxylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4 _J 4 ^L _J 4 ^II - (1 _J 3 _J 5-triazine-2 _J 4 _J 6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) _J also:

2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2 ^l -ethyl-1 ^l -hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which was sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVI-NUL® T 150 is sold; 2- [4,6-bis (2 _J 4-dimethylphenyl) -1 _J 3 _J 5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6). Benzotriazoles, such as. B. 2,2'-methylene-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1 _J 1 _J 3 _J 3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (INCI: Methylene bis-benztriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol ), which z. B. under the trade name Tinosorb® M at CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH is available. 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy- ^1- methoxy-1'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, and

• polymer-bound UV filters

Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul N 539 T.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention. for example, the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl) -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5, 5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt in each case individually or in any desired Combinations with each other.

The list of said UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.

The total amount of the filter substances is from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-% - each based on the total weight of the preparations - chosen to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide.

Inorganic pigments within the meaning of the invention are metal oxides and / or other sparingly water-soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ) , Silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (for example Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and also the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilization agents may advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments may advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), whereby, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained.This surface treatment may consist in using a thin hydrophilic and hydrophilic pigment according to methods known per se For the purposes of the present invention, the various surface coatings may also comprise water .Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or alumina hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ J ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ J _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS no. : 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can be used alone, in combination and in combination D / or occur in combination with organic coating materials. Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:

Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:

It is further preferred if alpha-hydroxy acids are additionally present in the preparation. It is further preferred if the preparation additionally contains glycerol. It is further preferred if the preparation is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W hydrodispersion. It is further preferred if substances having a particle diameter of 10 to 250 nm, preferably 10 to 100 nm, are selected as the coated titanium dioxide. It is further preferred if the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid. It is further preferred if the preparation has a pH of from 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 8.

The invention also encompasses the use of a preparation according to the invention against wrinkles and / or for increasing skin elasticity. Likewise advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the emulsions may also contain hydrocolloids (also referred to as thickeners or gel formers) which can stabilize the preparations.

Agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, xanthan gum, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and -propyl cellulose derivatives, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids are advantageous hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention , Polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicic acids.

Further advantageous gelling agents are for example copolymers of _Ci-3 o _O-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon).

Carbopols are also advantageous gelling agents for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Examples of advantageous carbopols are the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Likewise the ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM / MA decadiene crosspolymer (trade name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide, ammonium dimethyltauramide / vinylformamide copolymer, copolymer / crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyltaurate, polyacryloyldimethyltauramide, polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymer thereof. Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are: magnesium and / or aluminum silicates and, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group. Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and which, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.

In order to improve the water resistance of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen preparations, it may be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations. According to the prior art, this z. Polyurethanes (eg the Avalure® grades from Goodrich), dimethicone co-polyol polyacrylates (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF ), C _20-4O carboxylic acid with polyethylene (Performacid 350 from New Phase Technologies) and film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP):

Particular preference is given to using copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from the GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

A disadvantage, however, is for such preparations containing film former in an effective (ie increasing the water resistance) concentration that they leave a sticky and greasy impression when applied to the skin. In addition to the influence of the base, the binding ability of the UV filter in or on the skin is of great importance for the water resistance of the formulation. It is understood that oil-soluble UV filters are better bound to the (lipophilic) surface of the skin or are more difficult to wash off this than water-soluble UV filters. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. As preservatives, preservatives, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to increase the foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feel on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic formulation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as Methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preserving aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy etc.

Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Octaquest from the company Octel, pentasodium-ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate, which is obtained, for example. B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from the company. Monsanto is available and / or iminodisuccinic which u. a. from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (about 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is permanently available.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As favorable, but nevertheless optional to be used antioxidants all suitable or common for cosmetic applications antioxidants can be used.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins. Further preferred antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation ,

Further active ingredients to be used in the context of the present invention are those which have a positive effect on the condition of the skin, in particular active ingredients for positively influencing the aging skin, which reduce the development of wrinkles or even existing wrinkles. Particularly advantageous are biochinones, in particular ubiquinone (Q10) and ubiquinol, folic acid and its derivatives (in particular tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid), niacin and its derivatives (in particular niacinamide), creatine and creatinine, camitin, biotin, isoflavone and its derivatives, lipoic acid, ginkgo Extracts, hops and hops malt extracts. Also agents that promote the restructuring of connective tissue, such as natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts - such. As soy and clover extracts - can be used very well in the formulations of the invention. It is also evident that the formulations are particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin (such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, camitin, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts (such as, for example, NaCl, Marine minerals) as well as osmolytes (such as inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds)). Similarly, the incorporation of active ingredients for alleviating or positively affecting irritative skin conditions, be it on sensitive skin in general or by Noxa irritated skin (UV light, chemicals), as beneficial. Here are agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone, especially licochalcone A, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, in particular cyclooxygenase and leukotriene metabolism, especially the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxevase inhibitor protein, FLAP. In particular, creatine and creatinine are suitable active ingredients to create and / or renew an (energy) depot and to activate the repair of various cellular structures, in particular the DNA. The incorporation of modulators of pigmentation also proved to be advantageous. Here are agents that reduce the pigmentation of the skin and thus lead to a cosmetically desired lightening of the skin and / or reduce the occurrence of age spots and / or lighten existing age spots. Examples include tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid (8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid) and various extracts of licorice, arbutin, alpha-arbutin, deoxyarbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), Bearberry (Uvae ursi), Ursolic acid, ascorbic acid, pyridoxamine, niacinamide,

Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and / or derivatives, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, as they are z. B. occur during skin aging (such as dryness,

Roughness and development of dryness lines, itching, reduced refatting (eg after washing), visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis), slackness and development of wrinkles and wrinkles, local hyper-, hypo- and false pigmentations (eg age spots ), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg, cracking), and the like). Furthermore, they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic preparations the property, after application or distribution on the skin surface, to reduce the moisture release of the hom layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the initial layer , Overall, the skin's barrier function is normalized, the skin is noticeably refreshed and invigorated, and the skin appears smoother. The deep-acting increase in moisture visibly reduces swelling and dark circles, stimulates the formation of skin's own lipids and stimulates the skin's natural anti-aging functions and the overall performance of the skin.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, panthenol and urea.

The oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention advantageously contains nonpolar, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, if the content of polar oils having a polarity of less than 20 mN / m (interfacial tension against water) less than 5 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the preparation - is selected.

Advantageously, the oil phase can also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.

Silicone oils are synthetic compounds in which silicon atoms via oxygen atoms chain and / or net-like linked and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated , Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the quantitative represent the most important compounds of this group and are distinguished by the following structural formula

are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

It is advantageous according to the invention to use cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) as silicone oil. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenylmethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, z. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as various Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The preparations according to the present invention may also advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products: (a) Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiOi, ₅ and / or R ₃ SiO ₀ , ₅ and / or SiO ₂ , wherein the individual radicals R are each independently hydrogen, Ci _-24 -alkyl (as for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or ToIyI), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiOi, _{5 is selected} from the range of 1: 1 to 30: 1;

(b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil obtainable by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being such be such that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)

In the range of 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and

In the range of 1 to 50 mol%, when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

Advantageously in the context of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer (s) are in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.

Advantageously present in the form of spherical powders siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils of hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.

It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof which are liquid or pasty at room temperature. Particularly advantageous are organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name dimethicone / polysilicone-11, completely especially the Gransil types available from Grant Industries Inc. GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE gel, PM-GeI, LTX, ININ gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.

It is exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the silicone elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , in each case based on the total weight of the gel.

It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the total amount of siloxane elastomers (active content) from the range of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of Formulation, to choose.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Bioxylift was used as Pimpinella anis fruit extract.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic preparation containing

(a) an aqueous anise fruit extract (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France

(b) and one or more emulsifiers selected from the group of glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20 and steareth-21.

2. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains inorganic pigments, preferably coated titanium dioxide.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in addition alpha-hydroxy acids are included.

4. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that in addition glycerol is included.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W hydrodispersion.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as coated titanium dioxide substances with a

Particle diameter of 10-250 nm, preferably 10-100 nm, are selected.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a pH of 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 8, having.

9. Use of a preparation according to one of the preceding claims against wrinkles.

10. Use of a preparation according to one of the preceding claims for increasing skin elasticity.