EP3615720B1 - Process for making an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics - Google Patents

Process for making an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3615720B1
EP3615720B1 EP18724297.9A EP18724297A EP3615720B1 EP 3615720 B1 EP3615720 B1 EP 3615720B1 EP 18724297 A EP18724297 A EP 18724297A EP 3615720 B1 EP3615720 B1 EP 3615720B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
needles
shoes
knitted
knitting machine
machine
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP18724297.9A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3615720A1 (en
Inventor
Gianfranco Colosio
Paolo Lenzi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Jvc Holding Srl
Original Assignee
Jvc Holding Srl
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Jvc Holding Srl filed Critical Jvc Holding Srl
Publication of EP3615720A1 publication Critical patent/EP3615720A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3615720B1 publication Critical patent/EP3615720B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/025—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/043—Footwear

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for making an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics.
  • the task of the present invention is to provide a process for making an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics which overcomes the drawbacks of the cited prior art.
  • one object of the invention is to provide a process for making an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics which optimises the use of the needles used for forming the entire upper.
  • the present invention also relates to an upper for shoes according to claim 3.
  • the process for making an upper 1 for shoes 2 with advanced technical characteristics consists in knitting a first part of the upper 1 with a group of needles 3 in a tuck stitch or loop position or in a plain drop stitch position or in a missed stitch position.
  • the maximum number of needles is equal to the number of needles 3 present in a cylinder 5 of a circular knitting machine that is not represented.
  • the maximum number of needles 3 is equal to the number of needles present in the cylinder 5.
  • the second part of the upper 1 is knitted before or after the first part 1a of the upper 1, but in any case the complete upper is unloaded from the machine with the connection of the first part to the second part 1b, or vice-versa, having already been made simultaneously with the formation thereof, thus obtaining several important advantages.
  • a 12-needle-bearing cylinder is represented, but in reality the needles of a cylinder of a circular machine can also be more numerous, for example 120, or ten times as much.
  • the area covering the instep of the foot, the widest part, begins to be created; in row 1, 120 needles (12 in the drawing) are used.
  • the selected needles are progressively decreased until arriving at row 7, in the narrowest area associated with the tip of the upper.
  • a complete upper 1, made up of a first and second parts 1a and 1b, can be made, with an enormous advantage from all points of view (time, comfort, wearability, size and technical/physical characteristics), with a maximum number of needles 3 greater than the number of needles 3 present in the needle-bearing cylinder 5 of a circular knitting machine.
  • the group of needles 3 (hereinafter indicated only as needles 3) makes a three-dimensional pouch 10 suitable for simultaneously containing the tip and the heel of the user's foot.
  • a group of needles is in the drop stitch position in order to pick up the yarn to weave the pouch 10 and another group of needles is in the missed stitch position, so it does not participate in the creation thereof.
  • the needles 3 make at least the eyelets 20 for the laces thereof.
  • the needles 3 are in a position for creating the knit without ever increasing in number and work simultaneously before and after forming the eyelets 20.
  • the needles 3 comprise both the needles used to form the eyelets and the needles used in the other areas of the first and second parts of the upper.
  • the needles 3 also make the fastening laces 30 thereof.
  • the needles 3 are determined by the width of each lace and create the knit without there ever being an increase in the number of needles used for all the rows necessary in order to arrive at the desired length of the lace and simultaneously fix the end of each lace to the first or second part of the upper.
  • the needles 3 make at least a protective tongue 40 for protecting the user's foot from the tension of the laces.
  • the needles are in the drop stitch position so as to connect the tongue to the first and second parts of the upper and pick up the yarn to weave the tongue.
  • the needles 3 can increase or decrease with every change in direction of the needle-bearing cylinder 5 in order to determine the size of the tongue.
  • the needles 3 make at least an elastic zone 50 made with an elastic yarn.
  • the needles 3 comprise needles to the right and left of the elastic zone and knit with the elastic yarn.
  • the needles 3 can increase or decrease at every reversal of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder 5.
  • the needles 3 also form the join 60 between the various knitted parts thereof.
  • the needles are in the drop knit position and rise to pick up the right knitting yarn and, alternately, they are in the drop knit position and rise to pick up the left knitting yarn.
  • the needles in this case, can increase or decrease at every change of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder 5.
  • the needles make at least a heel-counter cover 70, during the formation of which the needles are in the drop knit position and pick up the yarn to weave the heel-counter cover and can increase or decrease at every change of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder 5 depending on the size of the heel-counter cover.
  • the needles are also in the missed stitch position and do not participate in the creation of the heel-counter cover.
  • the needles 3 make at least additional holes 80 for anchoring the same to a sole or any internal lining of the upper.
  • the needles 3 make at least an opening for forming a seam 90 of the tip of the upper aligned with the axis 91 of the sole 6 itself, since it can increase or decrease at every change of direction of the needle-bearing cylinder 5.
  • the seam of the tip 90 will be positioned below the underside of the foot and will move away from the tip, thus considerably increasing the resistance of the upper itself and solving any aesthetic problem in an optimal manner.
  • up to 120 needles corresponding to the needles contained in the needle-bearing cylinder, can be used to make the first part of the upper.
  • the present invention also relates to an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics which comprises a first and a second part of the upper 1, each formed by a group of needles 3 which work with a maximum number equal to the number of the needles present in a needle-bearing cylinder 5 of a circular knitting machine, not represented.
  • the process for making an upper for shoes comprises the following steps: during the movement between successive reversals in the knitting machine, knitting the first part 1a of the upper having a perimeter edge 100 simultaneously with a group of needles 3 of the machine having an overall number of needles in a tuck stitch or loop position or in a plain drop stitch position or in a missed stitch position, which may vary up to the number of needles present in the machine; and, during the movement between successive reversals in the knitting machine, knitting the second part 1b of the upper having a perimeter edge 101 simultaneously with a group of needles 3 of the machine having an overall number of needles in a tuck stitch or loop position or in a plain drop stitch position or in a missed stitch position, which may vary up to the number of needles present in the machine.
  • the second part 1b of the upper is knitted before or after the first part 1a of the upper and the complete upper is unloaded from the machine with the connection of the perimeter edge 100 of the first part 1a to the perimeter edge 101 of the second part 1b having already been made simultaneously with the formation thereof.
  • the first part 1a is knitted subsequently but during knitting of the first part 1a the perimeter edge 100 under construction of the first part 1a is connected to the perimeter edge 101 of the previously knitted second part 1b.
  • the second part 1b is knitted subsequently but during knitting of the second part 1b the perimeter edge 101 under construction of the second part 1b is connected to the perimeter edge 100 of the previously knitted first part 1a.
  • each part 1a, 1b it is possible to use, with the exception of the needles 3 necessary for the connection between the perimeter edges 100 and 101 of the first part 1a and of the second part 1b, all of the remaining needles 3 present in machine; the knit stitches in each row of each part 1a, 1b may vary up to almost the number of needles present in machine.
  • each pair of homologous rows of knit stitches of the two parts 1a and 1b can have an overall number of knit stitches that is greater than the number of needles present in machine, and in particular up to almost double the number of needles present in machine.
  • Each part 1a and 1b can be entirely made by reversing the movement of the machine, in particular by reversing the direction of rotation of the cylinder in a circular machine , every time that the formation of one row of knit stitches begins and the formation of the subsequent row of knit stitches ends.
  • an area 102, 103 in at least one part 1a and 1b is made without reversing the movement of the machine in order to form some rows that will thus have a closed loop conformation.
  • the upper to be made is small in size and does not require the use of more than half of the needles 3 present in the machine, it is possible to knit in parallel two uppers in opposite parts of the cylinder of the circular machine or of the carriage of the rectilinear machine.
  • the materials used, as well as the dimensions, may be of any type according to needs and the state of the art.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
EP18724297.9A 2017-06-09 2018-05-22 Process for making an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics Active EP3615720B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102017000064065A IT201700064065A1 (it) 2017-06-09 2017-06-09 Procedimento per la realizzazione di una tomaia per scarpe ad elevate caratteristiche tecniche
PCT/EP2018/063398 WO2018224301A1 (en) 2017-06-09 2018-05-22 Process for making an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3615720A1 EP3615720A1 (en) 2020-03-04
EP3615720B1 true EP3615720B1 (en) 2022-08-24

Family

ID=60294180

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18724297.9A Active EP3615720B1 (en) 2017-06-09 2018-05-22 Process for making an upper for shoes with advanced technical characteristics

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20200190712A1 (zh)
EP (1) EP3615720B1 (zh)
CN (1) CN110741115B (zh)
IT (1) IT201700064065A1 (zh)
WO (1) WO2018224301A1 (zh)

Family Cites Families (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6910288B2 (en) * 2002-12-18 2005-06-28 Nike, Inc. Footwear incorporating a textile with fusible filaments and fibers
US6931762B1 (en) * 2002-12-18 2005-08-23 Nike, Inc. Footwear with knit upper and method of manufacturing the footwear
US7347011B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2008-03-25 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
BR112015000643A2 (pt) * 2012-07-17 2017-06-27 Shima Seiki Mfg cabedal de sapato e método para produzir o cabe-dal de sapato
US10182617B2 (en) * 2012-11-20 2019-01-22 Nike, Inc. Footwear upper incorporating a knitted component with collar and throat portions
US9498023B2 (en) * 2012-11-20 2016-11-22 Nike, Inc. Footwear upper incorporating a knitted component with sock and tongue portions
TWI585255B (zh) * 2013-04-02 2017-06-01 島精機製作所股份有限公司 編織物之編織方法、及編織物
CN106455753B (zh) * 2014-05-02 2018-10-16 株式会社岛精机制作所 鞋帮及鞋帮的编织方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
IT201700064065A1 (it) 2018-12-09
CN110741115A (zh) 2020-01-31
EP3615720A1 (en) 2020-03-04
WO2018224301A1 (en) 2018-12-13
US20200190712A1 (en) 2020-06-18
CN110741115B (zh) 2022-01-11

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